These are a few videos of various projects of mine that I have enjoyed, and just wanted to share them. :-) I have skills in Metalworking, Welding, Blacksmithing, Forging, Woodworking, Carpentry, Auto Mechanics, Refurbishing, Restoration, Repair, Electrical, Electronics, Cooking, and more. I love Making things, using Power Tools. I hope to be getting into Knife Making, as well as Smelting and Casting / Foundry work. Please subscribe! Click the Notify button to get notifications when I post a new video!
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Hi i never turned my tv on, so i dont know if it works or not, but if i dont hear the pop sound what does it mean? I got this from the sodewalk of a house so i dont know how long it has been since it has been plugged in.
A lot depends on how OLD the TV is. Older TVs were really good at keeping their charge, and that charge would help the tube power-up much faster. Newer TVs do not take as long to power up, so they started incorporating a "bleed resistor" to slowly discharge the tube. Either way, if you discharge the current like I show you, you should be fine, even if you do not hear a "pop" from a spark. To be sure you can short it out for a longer amount of time. Long story short - just be careful what you touch - and avoid touching anything metal.
@@ToddMcMahon Thank you so much! I really didn't expect you to respond so fast!
@@audreyellacho - My pleasure! 🙂
Dimmer ile kosu bandi motoru çalistirmak tehlikedir. Dimmer sadece üniversal motorlar icin uygundur.
Umarım Google Çeviri bu yanıtı bozmaz! Bu basit bir "Dimmer" değil. Bir SCR'dir (Silikon Kontrollü Doğrultucu). Tehlikeli değildi ve sondaj makinemde bulundurduğum 5 yıl boyunca çok iyi çalıştı.
I KNEW there was another bolt back there. Spent 45 minutes hunting for it! >:(
Welcome to the club! It boggles the mind, doesn't it? Once you found the bolt - how long did it take to get that bolt out??
@@ToddMcMahon Admittedly, I gave up and went off to a family event for which we are vacationing. I slapped the essentials back together this morning and went over to the dealership. I warned them about The Impossible Torx Bolt. I pointed out the 10 hoses to disconnect and the vacuum system. I even said I'm pretty sure it's leaking out the bottom and likely the enclosure gasket. "Aw, no problem. We'll have it done in 2 hours, tops." That was 7 hours and 51 minutes ago. I feel less bad about throwing in the towel using whatever loaner tools O'Reilly's has to offer.
@@kainpwnsu - Well, I hope the dealer didn't rake you over the coals to get it done. Those 2 hours are probably the labor charge (excluding parts of course) - and if you are lucky they will not try to charge you for 7 hours of labor - if they do, I would complain, as you shouldn't have to pay for their ineptitude. I expect they will have replaced both the upper and the lower housing as a unit, rather than just the gaskets - but since the housing is PLASTIC instead of metal, new components should last longer. Best of luck!
This video set me on the path to fixing my table saw. I have the rebuild kit you showed from Amazon. I don’t know if you remember specifically, but can you tell me if the two bearings on the armature need to face in any particular orientation? I’ve looked at them and can’t see any reason why one side needs to face inward or outward. Thanks for any insight you might have.
I find it very interesting that you ask this question, as I wondered the same thing myself! After consideration though, I decided that it "probably" didn't matter much, as the bearings are sealed, and the most important contact surfaces are the outer-most (for the seat) and inner-most (for the shaft). Either way, the table saw I repaired is still running strong. I gave it to my nephew who has used it consistently while building a new house. 🙂
@@ToddMcMahon thanks for the response. I also couldn’t think of a reason why they would need to go on one way or another. I just installed the two armature bearings fairly easily (I put the armature in the freezer for a while first). Now I’ve moved on to the bearings inside the arbor housing but I can’t get the 4 machine screws out of the retaining plate. They are starting to strip out so I’ve got some wd40 soaking on them and may need to get an extractor tool. Thanks again for the video. I’m confident I’ll get the saw running again.
@@mrlaney62 - Check out these videos for some ideas to remove those stripped out screws: kzread.info/dash/bejne/k4eCtM-xdrivZco.html and kzread.info/dash/bejne/n35muceodpzaYc4.html
@@ToddMcMahon thanks again for more useful tips. While I awaited my Amazon delivery of a screw extraction kit, I went ahead and tried the tips in the videos. I got two of them out using the tape method but the other two were hopeless. Once the kit came, I got the other two out quickly. I just finished my project and the saw is up and running again! The only issue I ran into is the needle bearing. I changed all 4 bearings, but the needle bearing (pilot bearing / blind bearing) was tough. Someone who rated the rebuild kit on their reviews said to do the bread trick to get the bearing out. This involves putting bits of bread into the bearing then applying pressure with an object to force the bearing out. I ended up breaking a hole behind the bearing and on the arbor bracket (housing). Some JB Weld Steel Stick repaired the damage. Although the saw is running, I notice that if I pull the switch all the way up, it will only run intermittently. That part is no longer available but I will be checking around to see if I can replace it. Thanks again for the video and tips!
@@mrlaney62 - Well done. I have seen the "bread trick" in a couple videos but have never used it myself. Good to know that the backing of the bearing seat needs to be substantial to avoid damage from the forces applied using that method. I think the use of JB Weld to repair it was a good choice. Yes, from the description, I imagine that the switch will need to be replaced.
Ingredients: • 2 cups (Very Cold) Heavy Whipping Cream (One Pint) • 12 ounces (11.5 is ok) HIGH QUALITY Milk Chocolate chips - I used Ghirardelli , Lindt is also good. • 2 ounces (1/4 cup) espresso or strong coffee • 1-1/2 Tablespoons Dark Rum (not spiced Rum) • ¼ tsp of salt • 4 Tablespoons Butter (½ stick, cut up) (do NOT use margarine) • 1 teaspoon flavorless, granulated gelatin (typically ½ small packet) • ¼ cup cold milk Directions: Get the water heating in your double boiler... Measure out ¼ cup of cold milk into a Pyrex measuring cup and slowly sprinkle in the gelatin, stirring continuously for 2 minutes. Allow gelatin to sit and "bloom" for at least 10 minutes stirring occasionally, letting it slowly approach room temp. Do not heat it. In top of a double boiler, combine butter, coffee, rum, salt, and. chocolate chips. Melt slowly, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and let cool, to just above body temperature, stirring occasionally. Beat the (Cold) Heavy Cream into STIFF peaks. Then put back in the refrigerator. Briskly stir the milk/gelatin mixture again, and carefully warm up the milk by holding the measuring cup over a very low gas flame, again stirring constantly until gelatin is completely dissolved. Do not boil or the gelatin will be damaged. Slowly add gelatin mixture into the chocolate, stirring chocolate constantly until all traces of milk have been absorbed, and then set the chocolate aside to continue cooling. Stir approx. 1/4 of the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture to lighten the chocolate and make it less dense for folding. FOLD the chocolate into the remaining whipped cream in four doses. Do not over work the mousse. Spoon into bowls, or red wine glasses, and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour. Garnish with fruit (like strawberries or raspberries) and sweetened whipped cream if desired, then serve chilled.
Nice
Thanks! 🙂
Ingredients: Ritz Crackers Crunchy Peanut Butter Chocolate "Almond Bark" Candy Coating Pretzel Salt Slivered Almonds (toasted) Process: Start heating water in a double boiler and reduce heat to maintain a low simmer Toast some slivered almonds to be used as garnish, and set aside to cool Use the double-boiler to melt the Chocolate Almond Bark Candy Coating over low heat Lay out a tray full of Ritz Crackers up-side-down on a tray lined with a silicon mat Ensure peanut butter is at room temp and well mixed Put a heaping teaspoon of peanut butter on each inverted cracker Place another cracker on top of the peanut butter, making sandwich cookies One cookie at a time, coat each sandwich cookie completely with melted Chocolate Almond Bark Candy Coating Place cookie back onto the tray lined with a silicon mat Immediately add a sprinkle of Pretzel Salt and a few Toasted Slivered Almonds Place tray in refrigerator until coating has set Once set, keep cookies in air-tight container in the fridge until served. Enjoy! 🙂
Yummy!!
They are indeed! 🙂
I always thought there was some sort of non breathable gas inside crt tubes, not just a vacuum
There are some manufacturers who would first fill the tube with an inert gas (like nitrogen) before applying vacuum, but most just warm-up the tube then apply vacuum and suck out the air before sealing the back of the tube. The dangerous part is primarily the phosphor coating inside the tube, however, the GLASS itself is also hazardous waste, as the glass contains a mixture of several heavy metals (primarily lead, but several others including mercury). Either way - it's nasty enough to warrant extra care and propper disposal!
@@ToddMcMahon now that’s pretty scary, I used this video to take apart a bigger crt tv and the only thing I haven’t token apart is the crt tube. I’m worried since the tube is so big, it will implode when I use the nail
@@Dipplers - Use a SHARP Ice Pick or Awl - and tap it with a hammer until that metal plate has punctured, in the place where I show you, and you should be fine. The glass around that metal contact is thicker and it is made that way exactly for this reason.
@@ToddMcMahon ok, that sounds easy, all I want to do is remove the electron beam gun to look at it closely and throw all the glass away
I have the same problem. I have a 3 yr extended warranty from best buy. It should be covered by. Geek Sqd. Appt on friday
I realize this is an older video, but I was going to buy or make a sleeve for my credit cards, but your lining the wallet idea was so much simpler and easier to do... Thanks for such a simple Idea! Thumbs Up!
Hi Gary! Thanks for the nice comment. Just FYI - I recently replaced my wallet, and even though that home-made liner was already SEVERAL years old when I made that video, it still works - so I am STILL using it in my new wallet! I must admit though that it is about time to make a new one! LOL!
I'm having a similar problem… PVC angle joint that goes underground into large concrete slab for the sprinklers has cracked. So far the plan A is to "weld" it with J-B weld. Plan B in case weld doesn't help is to replace PVC piping and angle joint but the concrete and wall of the house leave very little space to do that… Plan C is much closer to yours which will involve cutting the concrete patch out and man do I LOVE your simple idea with river rocks! Your video is extremely helpful and gives me quite good understanding for similar repair and more repairs on really old sprinlker system piping that goes under concrete in many places, thanks for spending time on it.
@artemZinn - Hi there! Glad you found the video helpful. Your problem sounds FUN! (NOT!!) Just be sure to protect the new pipe from rocks and concrete debris that might rub through the replacement pipe over time.
@@ToddMcMahon yep. So the plan A miserably failed yesterday, JB Weld worked where I applied it but the PVC joint just cracked more, so it is Plan B today, gonna try to disassemble the PVC with heat gun to preserve the joint that goes under slab
@@artemZinn - Sorry to hear that Plan-A failed. I wish you the best of luck with Plan-B. Keep in mind that the cost of parts is miniscule compared to the costs of water damage. If you have access to the pipes, replace everything that you can!
Great demo - very helpful. Thanks!
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video! 🙂
Hey!! Really love the video I have the same saw! Bought him before 2 weeks and need to repair it I need the rubber of the weell and the aluminium plate Can you send my the website you order the parts from
ebay.com
Thank you
You are very welcome! 🙂
Todd, thank you much for sharing this. I just salvaged a 2.3 HP 130V treadmill motor and plan on incorporating it into my drill press. I have some background in electronics so I already understand what the components you mention are but still need some expert guidance in doing what you have done here. Thanks again.
Thank you for the nice comments. Please share your drill press upgrade with us! 🙂
hello.I has some CRT TV and I want to repair some of them,I already know how to discharge electrical current in CRT with screwdriver and alligator clip,But Is It really need to release the vacuum from CRT before I tear off PCB of CRT TV in order to repair work?
NO. If you release the vacuum the CRT will no longer work. These instructions are for recycle and disposal. NOT for repair.
I must say wow....what a relief from a nightmare. I should have searched for this sooner, before ordering 7 water filters, 2 amazon 2 sears 2 walmart and 1 LG directly, and thinking why do they keep sending me the wrong filter that don't fit. Today I'm just done, until I looked up this video and it blew my mind, because that is exactly what I just faced. WOW..........I'm good at things but this isn't one I'll be trying out. I feel much better now than I have in the last 2 weeks, thinking I'm crazy or someone messing with my head. Thank you sir for your video, great work
Hi Willie! Thanks for your comments. Be sure to check the condition of the "tabs" inside the filter head assembly. If they are not damaged, but simply out of position, you might be able to use an old filter as a "Tool" to rotate the tabs back to the correct position. To transform an old filter into this tool, simply shave off the outer tabs on the filter itself. Check other comments in this thread. Obviously, if the tabs in the filter head are damaged, or jammed, the filter head assembly will need to be replaced after all, but it's not that bad. GOOD LUCK!
Hey thanks so much what a great super idea over expensive RFD wallets .... What a great top , going travelling soon gonna use this...😊👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks! I've shown this trick to colleagues at work. They can't believe how easy it is to make, and how well it works! 🙂
Great video! Good job.
Thanks, Ed! 🙂 I hope you found the information useful.
Can you also use a screwdriver to puncture the metal and release the vacuum? I will get an old crt tv sometime and I just want to make sure that I'm safe when releasing the vacuum.
I would NOT advise that. Please use either a (sharp) Ice-Pick, or a Nail that cn be held easily by hand or with a pair of pliers - and strike either of these with a hammer to pierce the thin metal plate. Better safe than sorry!
@@ToddMcMahon Ok thanks
Thank you for sharing this video!! I learned the hard way and got shocked by one of those old TVs and that hurt and the worst I've ever been shocked!
Trust me, I understand. It has happened to before as well when I worked as a technician. Little shocks for the most part here and there, but once got a serious jolt when I was adjusting the contrast on the main board of a high resolution 21-inch monitor that was powered on. Hot day, and my hand was wet with sweat. We were supposed to be using plastic or fiberglass tools, but I couldn't find any (another tech had taken them all for a service call), so I used a regular metal screwdriver with a plastic handle. I figured it would be safe enough. My hand was sweaty, and when I leaned forward to look at the picture screen while I was adjusting a potentiometer - my hand slipped off the handle an onto the metal shaft of the screwdriver. My hand jerked, and the tip of the screwdriver hit some live contact. My forearm was leaning on a metal RFI Shield, and I was shocked severely from my hand, and thru my wrist. The jolt was strong enough for my metal watch band to arc against the RFI shield, and both were discolored by the spark that passed between the two pieces of metal. My hand and forearm were completely numb, and I was shaking like I was suffering from too much caffeine, and my arm was more-or-less useless for days. I can only presume that the sweat on my skin allowed the jolt to pass over the surface of my skin instead of deeper thru my arm (maybe?). I consider myself fortunate to have survived, and with no lasting effects.
Excellent! I've got this same thing, and the same problem. Now I know it's repairable.
I ended up gifting it to my nephew, who is building a new house. The saw is still going strong! :-) Good luck with your repair!
The inability to install a new filter, in this water filter head, has been reported so many times on the Internet, you would think that LG would offer an updated replacement part at no charge.
Unfortunately, there is no profit in that. Free parts and upgrades are typically reserved for safety issues. The best we can hope for is that the parts manufacturer's engineers keep these issues in mind when designing the next generation of the parts they make. Another thing to think about is that many appliance manufacturers actually integrate the same parts into their products. They purchase parts from multiple manufacturers and then assemble them and put their brand name on the finished appliance. This is why you might see the same parts used across multiple brands.
Thank you so much , I followed your instruction, replaced The water filter holder and supporter myself , I am a woman not handy at all . I am really happy for being able to DIY this project, it took me about 1 hour ,
Thank you for the nice comment! You know, it sounds to me like you are indeed pretty handy! Well done! I'm happy it worked out for you! 🙂 - OK. Now - be sure to read ALL the comments below - and keep one of your old filters, and modify it as explained in the comments. You might need to use this modified old filter as an "Allignment Tool" later on. Just read all the comments - and let me know if you have any questions. Congrats again on a job well done!
Bullshit, das ist ein spannungsregler, man regelt damit die ausgangsspannung von 0 bis 130v bei Belastung des motors und niedriger ausgangsspannung, bleibt der motor stehen, du brauchst deshalb einen PWM regler, der hält immer die komplette ausgangsspannung von 130 volt und schaltet dann je nach potentioneter stellung den motor ein und aus, dadurch wird die motordrehzahl verändert behält aber immer die volle kraft. Dein regler ist bullshit.damit kann man eine lampe oder eine elektrische heizung regeln, aber keinen motor.
I'm interested in just keeping the case of the CRT for a project I want to do, is there a way to safely remove the tube and glass from it?
As explained in the video, you should discharge the electrical current stored in the picture tube by shorting it to ground; After this, you should release the vacuum by piercing the thin metal of the anode contact (where the cable from the fly-back transformer connects to the tube) using a nail or sharp ice pick. What is the project you will be working on?
YOU KILLED IT.
Yep. 😁
Ingredients / directions *** NOTE: For best results, ensure ALL ingredients are at Room Temperature *** Pre-heat oven to 450 Degrees F. (230 C) With a 10-inch cast iron pan set inside the oven to warm up In a blender, combine: 4 eggs ½ cup milk 1 tsp. Vanilla 3 Tablespoons Sugar 2 Tablespoons melted butter <Blend> add ½ cup flour <Blend again> Pull pan out of oven once at 450 degrees add 2 Tablespoons melted butter to pan and swirl around to coat add 1 cup Blueberries and swirl again add blended batter and shake pan a bit to distribute Bake at 450 degrees for 15 minutes 🥰
Can’t it be easier 🫤🫤🫤🫤lol
Yeah, the only thing easier would have been if they had designed a BETTER solution that didn't fail so easily! 😆
Forgive me if this was stated somewhere else already, but what is the ballpark cost of all the parts?
Prices vary greatly based on where you live, and where you shop for the parts, as well as what materials you purchase. While I built this primarily out of black steel gas pipe, you may want to use Schedule 40 PVC. I suggest you shop for the parts on the internet, to get a ball-park price, and then if you are still interested, go to a couple hardware stores to see if you can find better prices. I spent more time shopping than I did building it.
@@ToddMcMahon thank you!
@@scott29kelly - My pleasure! 🙂
filter is on the door
Sometimes the sticker is on the wall inside the fridge.
Excellent video! The only thing I wish you showed was how to depress the 1st tube ring and pull out the tube. I'm a newbie so I struggled with it haha
Geeze! So Sorry! I didn't even think about that, as it was like second nature to me. I totally understand though, as my very first experience with these would have made a good "comedy sketch"! 😀
What is the part number?
This is what I ordered - but you may need something different: amzn.to/4aRHZN3
I had absolutely no clue tube TVs were this dangerous to dismantle. Like a couple of others in this comment section, I plan on making an aquarium for decorative purposes, and bought a TV off of Facebook marketplace (that apparently doesn't work anymore). I was going to try and destroy the screen with the hammer and bare handedly pull out whatever was inside, but I am so glad I googled how to do it, because I might have died doing so. Thank you so much for this, and I've now learned my lesson to be cautious of the things I don't know. - Coming from someone who grew up around flatscreens and is now fascinated by technology of the late 90s and early 2000s
Hello, and thanks for the comment. Several people have expressed an interest in turning a TV into an aquarium, and some even want to use the front glass of the TV as the front of the aquarium. I have never seen this done successfully, and the ONE that I saw which appeared successful, didn't have any fish in it. It is my belief that it would be very difficult to make it non-toxic enough for the fish to survive for long. I imagine people spending a lot of time and money trying to make something that looks cool - but only end up killing their fish. If you DO attempt this, be sure to document everything and share what you learned! :-)
@@ToddMcMahon Hello there! I've followed your instructions and successfully discharged the electricity and released the vacuum in a safe manner! The screen however might need some unscrewing to do, since it's latched onto the inner body of the TV. I'm only building this aquarium for decoration! Keeping a live fish in there would be extremely harmful and abusive to them 😓. Not to mention the laborious effort needed to properly waterproof the structure.
@@hiparifu6889 - I'm glad to hear that you were successful doing the discharge and the vaccuum release! 🙂Yes, the picture screen/CRT itself is typically held in place to the front bezel with 4 or more screws or bolts - usually in the corners. Good luck! :-)
I have a question. I used this video to put a treadmill motor on my old ShopSmith and it works great. My question is that when I try to read the output of the rectifier sending current to the motor, I get no readings at all. Any ideas on this?
Hi Stephen, What are you using to measure Amps draw? I know of two methods, but have only used the (very) old-school "Pass-Thru" method where your current must pass thru the meter (in-line) that you are using to measure the Amps. This requires a meter and cables that are rated for that amount of current and voltage passing thru it - or better. There are newer methods where some type of "induction" (?) sensor is clamped around the cable - but I've never used this method. Also, keep in mind that the induction method might only work with alternating current, so you would have to measure on the A/C side rather than the D/C side. Hope this helps.
@@ToddMcMahon I used the clamp meter and got similar readings on the AC and the DC wiring. As I first bring up the speed, the amps max out at about 20amps, but then almost immediately settle to 4 or 5 and stay there. Very interesting.
@@stephenwalker2195 - Yes, this is typical with all motors. There is always more current draw as a motor starts and gets up to speed. From that point on the momentum helps the motor to keep rotating, and it requires less power to operate. This is the benefit of a flywheel, while it takes more energy to start, it requires much less energy to keep operating. Part of Newtons law - an object in motion tends to stay in motion until a force acts against it.
Hi, I have recently been given an old tele that hasn’t been used in years and has had every single wire cut and the plug pulled out of the back of the glass. I want to separate the front curved screen of glass from the big bulky bit at the back to make a fish tank. How do I go about making sure it is fully safe to disassemble now that everything has been cut and unplugged? Hopefully I’ve explained that well enough to understand 😂
Hi Joseph. Unfortunately, there is no practical way to accomplish this, due to the toxicity of the inside of the tube (your fish will die, because you would never be able to clean it well enough), as well as the dangers involved with cutting the tube open. If you WERE able to safely open the tube and gain access to just the thick glass front, it still would not be advisable because of sharp edges of glass, as well as the tube components up near that front glass. Besides the very poisonous hazardous waste (mainly phosphorous), there is also a "Shadow Mask", a screen, as well as an inner magnetic shield that you would have to remove. Each of these provides an opportunity to injur yourself, or break the glass. I recommend that you keep the tube intact - except to vent it as shown in my video, and then try to come up with an alternative for the front glass. Maybe you could get some plexiglass, or some other form of clear plastic, and mould it over the tube, using it as a "form". Remove the tube from the tv cabinet and support it with the front glass pointing UP; heat up the clear plastic in the oven (research this part), and then lay it on top of the tube. Not sure if it would work, but it is worth a try. Be sure to clean the inside of the tv cabinet extreemly well, and rinse thouroughly several times. You will also need LOTS of "Aquarium Safe" (100%) Silicone. Other sealants will have acids and other chemicals for curing which would also be deadly for your fish. I hate to sound so negative, as it would be a pretty cool aquarium - I just do not think that using the actual picture tube will provide a good environment for the fish. My guess is that you would spend a lot of time and money, and then just kill the fish. Please let me know what you decide to do! This could still be a fun project! 🙂
I am trying ro do this for a small two inch crt so that i can do sort of kf a cut away for my students showing how an electron gun works. Anyway going about it ? Its a very small diameter tube that is russian
WOW! That is a VERY small CRT! Well, first of all, simply because of the toxic nature of the contents of the tube, I would recommend doing this. This being said, if you are going to attempt this anyways, please keep in mind how thin the glass is in the neck area. Remember to release the vacuum before you do ANYTHING. I did happen to see a video of someone cutting glass bottles using a string, wetted down with a flammable liquid. The string is lit on fire, and the bottle rotated to even-out the heat distribution, and then while the burnt string area is still hot, the bottle is dipped in cold water, and the glass fractures along where the string was. Here is a similar video: kzread.infoXMwB0HcRs5g?si=CHKFUgR_Uhc_vHGV Please note that the water will become contaminated by the contents of the CRT, as well as whatever bucket or pan you use to hold the cold water. These items should be discarded as toxic waste in such a way that there is ZERO chance that anyone might use them again. I have no idea how to clean any of these items well enough to make them non-toxic, and I certainly would not allow anyone other than yourself to handle the open tube - do not let students touch it. Wear thin rubber gloves and a dust mask when handling these items. Again, I think using drawings, diagrams, and photographs from the internet would be the better and safer choice. Either way, please let me know what you decide to do, as I am very curious about this!! Good luck!
@@ToddMcMahon thank you very much for your help!!! Will keep you posted !!
@@finnishsnow3182 - You are very welcome. I'm looking forward to hearing back from you.
I was hoping to hear something about my grandfather, Carl Friden, the inventor of the Friden calculator and company founder. The company was well known and respected from 1930's-1960's.
Hi Rick. Yeah - sorry, I was just reading from a script that someone else had written a long time ago. Be that as it may, my father owned a Friden (can't remember which model), and I loved playing with it as a kid. We also had one on display at the Computer Museum of America... so I myself am quite familiar with the Friden name. I know that there is a good tear-down/restoration video and a demonstration video at curiousmark.com that are worth watching. Several PDF files there too. Hope you liked my video just the same!
I'm hoping these tired 82 year old eyes just didn't see you capture the 4 springs, one under each end of the blades at each end of the cutterhead when you dis and then re assembled the planer. They push up against the blades and are what holds them in place as you use the factory knife-setting gauge to set them evenly in the cutterhead as you torque them down in place between the knife-setting bar and the cutterhead. Sometimes they tend to "Turn Up Missing" as they say "Down East" - especially if you get in a hurry. Bought my 22-540 in the mid '90's, added a Delta part 50-359 4" Dust Collector Hood (extractor hood, as Delta calls it) to it and, for the price, it still does a bang-up job. Of course, If, like you, I intended to mulch the back 40, I'll just have to leave the hood off, break out the 100' 12 or 10 gauge extension cords, depending, and have at it. (Oh, yes. Those "Gone Missing" blade setting tension springs are Delta part No. 1343868. Yes, I still have the paperwork.)
Hi John, I did indeed capture, clean, and re-use the blade tension springs under the blades. It's probably hard to see since this video (which is primarily of my BACK it seems) has been sped up so much! LOL! It's so painful to watch these early videos of mine, and I am still not much of a videographer! Hope you still enjoyed the video to some extent... :-)
THANK YOU! Videos like THIS is what KZread was meant for. Very helpfull!
@Samwizard1 - Thank you! I'm glad you found the information informative. :-)
Great job!
Thanks!
Dang this is jus like at my grandmas house while front yard is flooded had to turn water off for couple days I want to fix it but nervous on messing it up
I guess the real issue is determining WHERE the leak is located. We were lucky, in that we could tell right away that the leak had to be under the concrete walkway. We had good pipe at the outside edge of the house that we could connect to, so all that remained was making a couple holes and replacing the pipe. Sounds fairly simple - but the labor gets more difficult the older you get!
@@ToddMcMahon it looks jus like how yours is . I dug a lil trench n Tha water jus started to come out but it’s quite alot too goann try n get it done by this week your vid looks easy to do
@@BigRay1918_ - Best of luck! Be sure to share pictures! :-)
Hi, I have a 180 volt 3 hp DC treadmill motor that runs on 220/ 230 volt single phase. Would you have a diagram on how to wire this? I already have a 10,000 watt SCR, a large rectifier, switch, 1- AC ferrite choke, etc. but with having 2-110 volt legs and 1- ground wire I am struggling to figure it all out. Thanks for any help you may provide.
Can you give me the Manufacturer and Model Number of the motor? Do you know what the brand and model was of the treadmill it came from? Any additional info would help.
Sorry this took so long, Baldor DC, Landice INC. 3HP, 15 Amps, 180 Volt 3200 RPM. The treadmill is Landice Model 8700, Volts 220, Phase 1, Herts 60, Amps 15. I took pictures but don't know how to attach them. Sorry I am old and slow. @@ToddMcMahon
Just found this. As someone who started working for IBM in 1959 (left in 1966), I found this very interesting.
Hi Malcolm! Thanks - I'm glad you liked it! 🙂
Most useless repair video I have ever seen no narration and you body blocked the view of the work you did.
Honest review, you get a star in my book for this, but the camera angles should be closer to the object you work on.
Thank you for your comments. I'm still fairly new to this KZread stuff - and videos in general, but I do appreciate the feedback. I hope to eventually have multiple cameras recording at the same time to be able to provide better shots and different angles (etc.). Right now, however, I tend to find that I am more productive if the camera isn't in my way... and having to stop what I'm doing to move the camera, tripod, light, microphone, whatever - in order to get a close-up or different angle is not as important to me as getting the project finished. I figure that once I have a 2nd camera, I can get them both set up and recording, and not have to worry about moving a camera so much. Thanks again!
Here is a link to the gun safe that I used in this project (without the magazine holder of course! You'll have to make your own like I did!). It was fairly inexpensive, came with the fingerprint scanner, and it was easy to program as well. amzn.to/46zhj0X
Great job
Thanks! It wasn't very difficult either. I hope other people get inspired. 🙂
What makes this vise special is the jaws. It is a coach makers vise also know as a sheetmetal vise by some and the jaws are supposed to be tall and narrow at the top for bending metal or filing at a sharp angle, ect... The jaws you had milled make this a regular vise by squaring the jaws at the top, I really think this was a mistake. My only solace is that the jaws can be remade in the future to be correct for the vise. Other than this I really do appreciate the video, I know it takes a good bit of effort.
It's the first time I have done anything like this, and I was simply doing what I thought would work. So... if you can point me to a better jaw design, I would consider milling another pair of jaw faces! :-)
Totally understand. I would suggest doing a simple image search on the net of "coach makers vise" and design something along those lines.