A channel dedicated to the instruction and guidance of new archers to the world of Barebow Archery.
This content is designed to help anyone from a completely new beginner, to those who have recently started but are struggling with improvement in their shooting performance. (And even those who have been shooting for years, but will find nuggets of wisdom to add to their collection)
I draw upon years of Barebow knowledge gathered from many of the top archers in the community, the teaching experience I have accumulated since specializing in Barebow in 2017, and my nearly forty years of general archery experience in multiple disciplines.
I welcome you on this wonderful journey we embark upon and hope it gives you the joy and satisfaction in those moments of revelation that we often discover through the adventure of shooting this very challenging style of archery.
If you’d like to help spread the word and encourage others in Barebow, visit:
barebow-basics.printify.me/products
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Hey, thanks for the video. I am really considering getting the gillo G1 as my second riser, but have heard that limb fit can be an issue. I will be using WNS Delta C3 Limbs for now. Do you have any experience using the G1 with cheap limbs? Thanks a lot in advance.
@@Jan-is4jy while it’s possible as every manufacturer has their own slight variation on the IILF sizing, most are all compatible with each other. The most common issue I’ve seen with some users claiming limb fitment issues is due to the user over tightening the lateral limb adjustment set screws; this compresses the dovetail and effectively narrows the slot down making insertion or removal of the limb seem incredibly difficult. Backing the set screw off so that it’s just barely touching the side of the dovetail assembly almost always alleviates the issue. I personally never had any issues with limb fit on my G1 risers, so while I won’t say it’s impossible to run into an issue, I do think it’s highly unlikely.
YES, I finally found a video that explained these adjustments in a very educational way, many thanks 😁👍
It is very well illustrated video. Thank you
Could you please post a link for tuning forks? Edit : They actually seem to be discontinued, any other way to tune the string to true center without this tool?
Many generally use Beiter Limb Line Gauges. While not as good as the tuning forks, they do serve the purpose and help get the job done.
Bro next of best worth equipment in compund bow target archery 😮😢
Very interesting ands thanks for the information
Well this was a gold mine of a video! Thank you very much for your time and information.
Thank you for your channel. You are a gifted speaker, and you have organized the material so that it is easy to follow, and you focus on the essentials with reasonable recommendations.
Seriously good video
My beginner barebow has only one hole in the riser. Can I mount the plunger and the stick-on flipper rest on the same axis? Doesn't the pressure from the plunger push the arrow away from the riser on this type of rest?
Did you mean 18.5 "cm" instead of 18.5 "mm" (at around 8:50)?
Yes! Sorry, it was an error of speech; unfortunately there’s no way for me to correct it once the video was published. Approximately 18.5 cm was the distance from limb surface to string.
I think your alignment towards the pressure point is correct. I think it is more consistent than aligning on the pivot point.
We need more video's. You provide amazing content. Please keep them coming. 🏹
These Barebow Basics videos are really the best. So much useful information that can't be found anywhere else, even by some well-known archers. No blablabla just very precise and super well-organized instructions. Mr. Wong is the best!
Thank you. I enjoy fleching arrow, too
That mirror on the ceiling will come in handy 😊. Very helpful. Appreciate it
Are you really driving while shooting a video??
Thanks for sharing this great information
I’m just so happy to have found this channel! ❤. Thank you for all your help!
Thank you!
Looks like barebows really aren't bare .
Thank you for the video. One request: Your recommendation for nocks was Beiter or Easton. That was fine. However Easton products are forbidden to deliver in Europe and Japan, so only the Beiter recommendation is available to us. When recommending Easton, could continue to give alternatives available in Europe and Japan?
According to the Easton website, they have international distributors in many European countries and multiple listed in Japan. I would recommend double checking availability through these distributors. (There really aren’t any other top tier nock manufacturers unfortunately that I can recommend) eastonarchery.com/international-distributors/
@@barebowbasics Thanks, this was helpful.
Another great session …. Thank you for sharing!
Amazingly great help to us getting started in barebow. Your videos are perhaps the best videos I have seen for ANY subject. You give so much so gracefully, precise, and willingly. You are a blessing! Thank you for doing these videos!
Your delivery content and video qualityares impeccable! I enjoy watching this a lot even though I have done all this many times before you only added to my knowledge.
When you put in the modified screw for the plunger, do you ever tighten the rear set screw in the housing? I get that the point is to be able to make adjustments more easily, but I wonder if you have issues with it vibrating out of position?
It is ok to snug it up a little, just to add more friction to the side of the adjustment screw. But don’t tighten it down entirely as the goal is to have it so that it can still be turned/adjusted as necessary. As long as you haven’t lost it, Shibuya originally installed a tiny little disc of nylon that the set screw pushes against. This creates the friction against the adjustment screw without the metal of the set screw tip biting into the adjustment screw threads.
why it's difficult to find an archery channel that reviews Angel Majesty products, especially the AM serving material, which is said to be the best, higher durability and has the strongest grip.
I like Flemish twist Fast Flight string from Shatterproof Archery. It's slightly louder than a normal Flemish twist but I get about 10fps faster arrows with the Fast Flight. I'm a noob though. I'm just learning how to serve my own strings. I've worn out my serving. Edit: Amazon has grey BCY PolyGrip 75 yards for $15 right now. The other colors cost more for some reason, but the grey is fine with me.
This is a gold mine of information. Your presentation style is so incredibly easy to follow. Thank you for doing this for the archery community!
Quick question regarding bow length for a taller shooter (6'4) with a 30" draw - im looking to buy my first barebow setup and was told to go cheap at first. I want to aim for a 72" rig meaning I would need to get a 27" riser. These usually cost a couple hundred dollars more than a "cheap" 25" riser, $130 vs ($300-400 for an entry 27"). Id like to learn good technique with a 72" bow but not sure the cost difference is worth it compared to a 70", what do you think? One other question, i viewed your form video but you didnt touch on hook release, ive heard different opinions on how we are supposed to release the string, could you please give your input? Thanks!
There’s two questions here, so I’ll address the quick one first. Shot execution (release) is a topic I haven’t covered yet. It is forthcoming though, likely the next segment as it completes my discussion on the entire shot cycle. I cannot do it justice trying to explain it here in a comment reply unfortunately, so please stay tuned. The more complex answer for what riser to get depends on how committed you are to learning the sport and discipline. While there are many archers who have shot 25” risers with long limbs successfully for decades, even with a longer 30” draw length, if you feel you are going to pursue competition seriously, my normal recommendation is to spend the extra for the 27”. If this pushes your budget a bit, see if you can find a used riser, as there are often many available. (My friend Peter is selling a great Gillo g1 right now for example) If you aren’t at a point where you are confident you will truly pursue competition, then a 25” riser with decently designed long limbs will certainly work great for recreational use. Too many people forget that using that combo has successfully won many state and national titles, before 27” riser prevalence became mainstream.
@barebowbasics Thanks! Do you have a link to your friend's riser or the price?
There is a buy sell group on Facebook; here is his post. facebook.com/groups/1879744912098892/permalink/25163041540009234/
the tip of the wire rest the arrow before or after the botton??
Unless you are crawling at multiple distances for a game like field, placement of the wire tip front to back is not super critical; once you have tuned for that wire position and crawl, you’ll see that the wire tip position is not really relevant for single distance shooting. (Truth is, many archers obsess about the position when it doesn’t matter)
@@barebowbasicsthanks its for multiple distance in open field
That treads beyond beginners territory; but the answer is to keep the support point where the arrow shaft contacts the wire of the rest as close to straight out from the tip of the plunger as possible. The wire should end very close to just past this point as well. Also, if possible, the wire should be bent so as to be at a relatively aggressive angle, rather than the typical shallow angle from factory. But this is difficult to describe and must be demonstrated. (Again, well beyond beginners content)
@@barebowbasics thanks for all
If you are attending Field trials in Indiana this year, good luck!!! Looks like a good size crowd is going. 😁
Cool vids, any luck with getting the gear in tall sizes?
Not sure what you mean? Can you elaborate?
@@barebowbasics 2x tall sizes on shirts or sweaters.
Ahh. Let me see if that’s a possibility. I’ll get back to you shortly.
@@barebowbasics thanks
It looks like I might be able to get 2XLT short sleeve printed for you. Can you tell me what specific design and color you wanted?
Thank You
This video is the real deal. Wow, man. You set a standard, here. Impressed.
My point on is about 50 yards with a 36# barebow recurve. As I get older and drop to a 32# pound bow I am 79. How much will my point on change.
Unfortunately, there are simply too many variables involved to predict this, from arrow weight and point weight, to archers draw length, anchor placement and shot execution technique/grip pressure balance. The only way you will know is if you give it a try…
Should have paid closer attention to this earlier. Going through all of the sessions a couple of times is beneficial.
A very good teacher
Excellent! I am learning so much. Thank you thank you.
Hi Elton, I seem to struggle with my bow arm as I release the arrow, I can’t seem to stop my arm from moving/collapsing to the right. Any idea what this could be ? Thanks in advance I wonder if you ever come to the UK as I would like to get coaching in person
It’s hard to say without seeing it happen, preferably in person. Typical reasons though are bad initial alignment as you draw into anchor, weaker bow side arm and shoulder muscles, or just mental collapse where you don’t hold the bow side steady through the shot. As for traveling to the UK, I don’t have the budget or plans to do that sort of thing at this time, but perhaps someday if things change. If you ever make it across the pond to one of our bigger international events like the Lancaster Archery Classic, or The Vegas Shoot, and I’m in attendance there, please let me know and I’m sure we can set up something for a few hours on the practice range.
Great video!
I never glue feathers to any manner of shaft material - carbon, aluminum, wood - instead, I use Bohning Fletch tape. No arrow wrap is needed or wanted (adding unneeded arrow weight and increasing arrow spine) and taping feathers is faster, easier, holds extremely strongly, super easy to remove and refletch. I've lost wood and carbon arrows while roving and hunting only to find them a month or year later out in the woods and while the feathers were eaten by bugs the feather base was still firmly taped to the shaft. No muss, no fuss, cheap, strong and foolproof. Single fletch jig with a straight clamp and a helical clamp (I prefer left wing because most bare shafts will "clock tune" to rotate counter-clockwise). While a Bitz jig is the "gold standard" for shaft fletching, most of the single vane less expensive polymer fletching jigs will work just fine. Avoid any of the three-fletch-at-once jigs!!
you're a legend, thanks Elton! <3
That may be the best explanation of back tension I've heard. Good work.
I recently started archery with a trad recurve set up, but I do love playing with setting stuff up sometimes, so a full on barebow setup might be on the cards in the future....thanks for the great video!
Thanks!
what is that black big sphere (bouncing ball) type thing in back seat? is it related to archery.
It is an exercise ball. It helps with back muscle stretching and exercises for flexibility if you end up with a sore lower/mid back. 😎 so, sort of archery related lol.
I just want to say thank you and how incredibly useful and valuable of a resource this video series has been for me. No other channel has does as good of a job of clearly explaining exactly what a new barebow archer needs to know, without extraneous information.
Yes, I can confirm you meet wonderful people. I also want to thank John and Elton talking the time to help me out with my questions. When they say you can approach them, they are telling the truth. They were friendly and approachable. As far as anyone that is feeling a little intimidated by joining a tournament, even a national level tournament, don't worry. Everyone has been in the same place you are and they are happy to help you through the event. This was the first tournament ever for one of the women on my bale. She had a great time. You can learn a lot from the people you are shooting with. But come with a few energy bars...
cool stuff! 😉
Funny stuff!!!!