Welcome to my channel!
For the most part, this channel is dedicated to the preservation and restoration of those fantastic old Maytag wringer washers from the 1930s and '40s. These machines were built with pride and made to last! Most of my videos pertain to restoration and operation of the Maytag models 30 (1935), 30WP (1935), and 32 (1940), but also include the Maytag E2L (1977), and a Kenmore 110-73230 (1948, built by Whirlpool Corp.) In the spring of 2019, I added a circa 1948 Zenith wringer washer to my collection.
Other interests of mine (and hopefully yours!) include horticulture and history. Check out the video of my visit to the Almanzo Wilder Farm Museum in upstate New York.
Additionally, I have albums on Flickr, showing lots of "before & after" shots of the restoration process of these fantastic old washers. Here's the link ... www.flickr.com/photos/44623676@N05/albums
Пікірлер
Mine seems seized! Cant rotate the belt pulley. Power wont start it.
Hey Brad, got a model 32 , the one you found out is from 1937 for me. Anyways agitator post was froze up soaked it forever now its free albeit with a pipe wrench on the square to part of the post. It’s not spinning without effort and wrench . what else do I do?
Hello Aaron. I have restored three machines with that exact situation. First off, could you please explain to me how the machine is dismantled - have you removed the tub? If so, I typically invert the tub over a basin and then squirt penetrating oil into the area of the pinion gear and post. The oil eventually works its way down the shaft and seeps out around the drive block. Applying heat and gradually working it back and forth with a wrench has worked for me.
@@BradRoss63 Hi Brad yes I’ve put it upside down in a larger pipe and let the oil soak and I did heat. Maybe I need to do it again. I just wondered if it was worth taking the shaft apart to clean up.
It's always taken several "doses" in my cases. And I turn the tub back and forth so the fluid can run out of the weeping hole. Usually some major gunk comes out! I've never attempted to take the shaft out, as I don't have an arbor press, which would be necessary to remove the taper pin that secures the drive block (torque) to the shaft. Using a hammer and a punch seems too risky to me.
@@BradRoss63 if I had a way to send you a video of what I did it might be easier. I guess the real question is should that brass block at the top spin freely by hand, at the moment I have to secure the agitator in a vice to spin that block with a pipe wrench.
@@aarondavis6014 Yes, ultimately it should turn freely by hand.
Oh yeah they were some good ones.
I never knew Zenith made washing machines.
Not the same company that made electronics. This was the house brand of Marshall-Wells hardware stores.
@@BradRoss63 Thank you for the interesting information.
Love your work on your restorations Brad. What’s next? 🙀
Your positive comment appreciated! Not sure what's next - probably another wringer washer, but who knows where? Perhaps another museum.
these are the best WASHER MACHINES I wish I could find a brand new one. and add a dryer. it's the best anyone know where I can purchase a brand new one?
Hey Brad, I just picked up my own model 90 to restore. It’s my first one and im super excited to fix her up! What kind of paint did you use? I’m about 1/4 of the way through my stripping and derusting. Thanks in advance!
The standard color for the Model 90 was a dove grey - when I did the restoration at the railway museum, I simply chose a gloss light grey in a spray bomb, the hardware store's house brand.
That makes me feel sad because I have no clue what is wrong with this washing machine, hopefully can you help me if you have any idea what it’s like wrong 😑 please 🙏🏻 please
The best resource I know of for advice is www.automaticwasher.org You can join for free and post questions on the "Imperial" forum.
I got one for $50 dollars a few weeks ago, but it is like burning 🔥 and lots of smoke 💨 comes out when I turn it on and also it does a strong sound when it’s working
Sounds to me like a problem with the electric motor, rather than the machine itself. If you have the time and patience to service the motor, it may be a quick fix, perhaps just a matter of cleaning it and then oiling the shaft. Be sure to use "3-in-1" electric motor oil.
Thats some agitator gyrator, looks like it means business. Great restoration and process. Interesting tension arm / emergency release mechanism.
It produces a LOT of splashing - and because the top of the tub is straight and not curved inwards, the water sloshes so much it makes using the lid mandatory! As a note of interest: Beatty offered two different agitators - 1). the "clothes action" agitator (such as is in this machine), and 2). the "water action" agitator. The difference is the "clothes action" type is far more aggressive and pulls the clothes through the water with paddles, whereas the "water action" type is similar to most in competitors' machines where the agitator produces water currents that surge through the clothes (such as Maytag's claim to fame with their "gyratator".)
Look forward to seeing this Beatty restored, we do get the odd one still over here but very rare .
Interesting about the gears up top Brad, what oil do you use filling back up ?
90W gear oil.
You can also say that if you hit the safety pressure release, it also disengages the wringer.
Yes, thanks for mentioning that.
Nice old machine. I learned of the Beatty brand when researching my Cadillac vacuum cleaner. Apparently Beatty acquired the Canadian branch of Cadillac maybe in the late teens or early twenties. So when you look up Cadillac vacs, you get a split of American ones and Canadian ones, which look related but different (obviously). I guess it was their MO to buy out companies to expand into other procucts.
How do you loosen the legs to the frame? I can't get any socket it wrench in to access the boots
I use a ratcheting wrench, but a standard wrench works also, just not as easy.
After doing some research I discovered the previous owner of my model 33 washing machine installed an earlier with the "tall tank". They had the frame & legs extended as far as possible so that the tub cleared the engine, that is why I was having trouble getting to the bolts. I have a "short tank" engine that I will be putting in after I get it rebuilt. thanks for your reply.
I only know Zenith from electronics ("The quality goes in before the name goes on.") When were they doing household appliances? Is it because I'm too young? 60 :-) Or bc they weren't distributed in Canada?
They were different companies. Zenith washers were made exclusively for Marshall-Wells hardware store chain, out of the factory in Duluth, MN.
Ah thnx!
strange. in the columbia basin of okanogan county washington state, there is a national historic site called U Bar U ranch also!! i lived there but i lived in alaska now. i thought this video was from there but no alberta canada! interesting.
Maybe use some modern Tide or some such in it?
Why? Ariel is a modern detergent, and less expensive while doing a great job..
Why are you painting at green
A grey-green was the authentic color for this model. It's a hard color to come by in a spray can - you could have it custom mixed. The color here is a not an authentic color to this model, but it was readily available. "Pistachio" by Krylon.
Keep up the good work Brad Love this era of Maytags They look like fun projects
Interesting washer tour.
I just purchased a model 30 and wanted to test if it worked, it agitated with no water and then when i tried running it with the tub filled it stopped working and now seems to be jammed. Any pointers?
I would imagine it's just coincidental that it "jammed" when you added water to the tub. A video would perhaps shed some light on the problem, if you're able to.
I need instructions to take my maytag apart and replace the water seal i want to sand and paint underneath i think the motor needs a new cord
Hey Brad cleaning the gunked and dried up grease in the wringer gear section is there only two small ‘BBs’ (balls) for the selector that’s all the came out of mine. Just checking. Thanks
I have the parts manual, if you'd like to view the wringer head, or any other parts.
Brad, I am glad to see your tutorial on the Maytag Model 30 wringer washer power unit. I want to replace the worm shaft cork seal with a modern neoprene, National # 471264. I have replaced this seal before without removing the worm and worm shaft but it was very difficult and time consuming. I damaged the housing and worm shaft and do not want to make that mistake again. A video demonstrating the removal of the worm and shaft would be very helpful. You removed the worm shaft in this video, kzread.info/dash/bejne/nX9hqdWJiKmxmLQ.htmlfeature=shared&t=60, but did not show how you did it. Mark.
Removing the worm gear and the worm itself is a bit tricky - sorry I didn't include that in the video. But I can explain the procedure here now: First, loosen and remove the set screw on the end thrust bearing cap (part # A4771), which can then be pulled out using a pair of vice grips. Next, while turning the worm screw shaft slowly by hand, the worm gear can be lifted out. Be aware if doing this while there is still grease in the area, it will be quite difficult. It's easier if most of the grease has been removed and some solvent used in the area. After the worm gear has been lifted out, the worm screw/shaft can be easily pushed out.
@@BradRoss63 I tried to figure out the procedure myself but got stuck when the end thrust bearing cap would not pull out (after the set screw was removed). I didn't know if the end thrust bearing cap pulled straight out or if it was threaded and if threaded was it left or right hand threads. Since the end thrust bearing cap did not come out easily, I presume it is stuck with rust. I have sprayed lubricant around the end thrust bearing cap and will next heat up the area to break rust loose.
@@ibsoarin Hopefully the heat will do the trick. Even though it's not threaded, wiggling it back and forth as you're pulling should help.
Que bonita lavadora
Que maravilla
Thanks Brad, that’s where I’m at with mine. So is that gasket still available or? Also I can’t get the pin out for the switch rod. Guessing I’d have to drill that. Speaking of gaskets. I also need the round one for the tub, where the agitator bolts on. Thanks
I make the gasket with 3/32" cork/rubber sheet from Felpro. I've never seen them for sale online. For the "center plate to tub" gasket, I typically use 1/16" rubberized paper gasket. Regarding the taper pin for the shifter rod - it can be a real challenge to get out! It's best to have the tub removed so as to get the proper angle to bang it out with a punch. The pin is driven out from right to left side (as you're facing the machine). I always apply heat from a torch before attempting to hammer it out. Note: on my latest restoration of the 1936 Model 30, I drilled out the taper pin, but made the mistake of using too large a drill bit, plus the angle was off. So...what resulted in the rod was a too large hole. I rectified it by using a nut and bolt instead of a taper pin. Lesson learned!
Brad, Videos that show how to disassemble, problem solve, fix and reassemble individual parts, such as the power unit, wringer gearbox, wringer unit, are very helpful. Thank you for this video that shows how to replace the wringer washer pump hose. Mark.
Thanks for your comments, Mark! And you're welcome! I strive to make informative, helpful videos to assist anybody taking on a restoration project of one of these great old washers!
A washer in 1948 that washes way better than modern machines and is STILL WORKING. Amazing!
With modern day bulbs, this wouldn't work I presume!
You're right. You need 100 watt incandescent bulbs.
That washer is beautiful !! Never heard of a ZENITH.
Zenith washing machines were made in Duluth, Minnesota. Not to be confused with the Zenith brand of radios and televisions. That was a different company.
I'd like to see running when it's fully restored.
Looks & sounds great Brad, love how the sloshing water is the loudest noise, just as it should be !!
Great to see this Maytag restoration all put back together and ready for a wash test , I agree about the original decals, wasnt there Geoff from AW who printed decals from originals ?
Not sure about Geoff, but my source was in Ohio, but he died.
A great look into this Maytag restoration Brad, hoping we can do as good a job on our Hotpoint model , Cheers , MIke
Kewl. I’m running into stuck screws that hold the wringer gear tube to the tub. But it’s getting there. On mine though what’s keeping the lid hinge blocks attached to the top after removing the two lower bolts on the tub side?
Hello Aaron ... regarding the hinge "ears" as they are officially called - usually it's corrosion that has them stuck to the top of the tub. If the bolts are removed beneath, you should be able to gently tap them out. An interesting note: after they are removed, you can usually see the original mirror-like finish underneath them!
@@BradRoss63 It’s cleaner looking, they finally came off after persuasion. Getting ready to get into the roller gear box.
Hey Aaron ... late reply on this one. Will you be posting video of your machine? Hope so.
@@BradRoss63 I will. Trying to list what gasket sizes and where to source for power unit, agitator to power unit and tub. I figure the tub is a cork rubber 3/32.
More thorough and efficient washing than today's HE junk!
I have a N2LP baby blue and white round wringer washer. My problem is the water is not draining. I have removed the drain hose, it is not blocked. The pump is running..what am I missing? Plus my rollers are not rolling, they want to..but can't get going! I changed the washer on the agitator shaft bcuz water was seep from below..that stopped that. This has been stored inside a shed for years. It has a little rust on the leg area, but overall in great shape.
I would suggest putting a querie on www.automaticwasher.org in the "Imperial" section (for vintage machines, including wringer washers.)
@@BradRoss63 I found the issue, mud-dobbers. They filled the hoses up with their mud nests. ARGHHHH!!! I got them all cleaned out, then found that the flat side of the pump pipe the tub hose hooks to has crumbled and I will have to replace it. Unfortunately I just need the pumps flat casing side..but not for $74. I can get a refurbished pump for $89 no brainer there!! 😁 Next I will change the oil and bypass the foot pump for the rollers!! I'm proud of my 58yr old lady self for doing this. Thankfully maytag made these fairly understandable to work on!! Thanks for your help!! Love your videos!!
Where did you get your new gaskets from
I make my own gaskets.
Wheres do u get your new gaskets at
I make my own gaskets.
Do u have a video on the break down on the teardown
No, sorry I do not. This machine was already disassembled when I arrived to do the restoration.
@@BradRoss63 do you know where I can get new gasket or seals for gear box and washtub or agitator
Wheres part 1,2,34,5,6
All parts are available for viewing.
Where did you get your stickers from
I explain in the videos that I preserved the original decals, and did not paint the tub. However, as a note of interest, my source for original decals is no longer producing them.
Where did you get your gaskets and seals for the gearbox
Where did you get your paint from
This particular paint is Krylon "Satin Pistachio". My previous "go to" color was "Leafy Rise" from Valspar, but sadly, it is no longer produced.
Where did you get your parts from
Various sources...sometimes ebay.
Great job. My agitator is froze up as well. Also the bolts/screws holding it to the tub what do you recommend to loosen them as well as the froze agitator? Love the green paint what is it?
Please excuse the late reply. The green is Krylon "Pistachio". Not an authentic shade for this model Maytag to be sure. The product I used in the past was a much more authentic shade, but sadly is no longer in production - Valspar's "Leafy Rise". Going forward, I may try Rust-Oleum "Sage".
Regarding the "frozen" agitator, I have made reference to dealing with this problem in various videos. If you need more specific information or advice, contact me.
You are awesome! I love watching these videos. I have a Maytag from either the late 40s or early 60s.
Thanks! Glad you like them!
Some serious heavy duty metal in those wringer drives, great to see the insides, Cheers, Mike
Yes, they were built like tough farm equipment! Of course, Maytag started off as a company building attachments for farm equipment, so the quality of materials and workmanship carried over to their washing machines.
Am going to enjoy this tutorial Brad, we have one that needs total restoration Badged Hotpoint , Cheers, Mike