Tutorial: Maytag Model 30 Wringer Washer Power Unit
Disassembling the power unit for cleaning and changing the lubricant.
Жүктеу.....
Пікірлер: 8
@aarondavis601411 ай бұрын
Thanks Brad, that’s where I’m at with mine. So is that gasket still available or? Also I can’t get the pin out for the switch rod. Guessing I’d have to drill that. Speaking of gaskets. I also need the round one for the tub, where the agitator bolts on. Thanks
@BradRoss63
11 ай бұрын
I make the gasket with 3/32" cork/rubber sheet from Felpro. I've never seen them for sale online. For the "center plate to tub" gasket, I typically use 1/16" rubberized paper gasket. Regarding the taper pin for the shifter rod - it can be a real challenge to get out! It's best to have the tub removed so as to get the proper angle to bang it out with a punch. The pin is driven out from right to left side (as you're facing the machine). I always apply heat from a torch before attempting to hammer it out. Note: on my latest restoration of the 1936 Model 30, I drilled out the taper pin, but made the mistake of using too large a drill bit, plus the angle was off. So...what resulted in the rod was a too large hole. I rectified it by using a nut and bolt instead of a taper pin. Lesson learned!
@aarondavis60146 ай бұрын
Hey Brad cleaning the gunked and dried up grease in the wringer gear section is there only two small ‘BBs’ (balls) for the selector that’s all the came out of mine. Just checking. Thanks
@BradRoss63
5 ай бұрын
I have the parts manual, if you'd like to view the wringer head, or any other parts.
@ibsoarin10 ай бұрын
Brad, I am glad to see your tutorial on the Maytag Model 30 wringer washer power unit. I want to replace the worm shaft cork seal with a modern neoprene, National # 471264. I have replaced this seal before without removing the worm and worm shaft but it was very difficult and time consuming. I damaged the housing and worm shaft and do not want to make that mistake again. A video demonstrating the removal of the worm and shaft would be very helpful. You removed the worm shaft in this video, kzread.info/dash/bejne/nX9hqdWJiKmxmLQ.htmlfeature=shared&t=60, but did not show how you did it. Mark.
@BradRoss63
10 ай бұрын
Removing the worm gear and the worm itself is a bit tricky - sorry I didn't include that in the video. But I can explain the procedure here now: First, loosen and remove the set screw on the end thrust bearing cap (part # A4771), which can then be pulled out using a pair of vice grips. Next, while turning the worm screw shaft slowly by hand, the worm gear can be lifted out. Be aware if doing this while there is still grease in the area, it will be quite difficult. It's easier if most of the grease has been removed and some solvent used in the area. After the worm gear has been lifted out, the worm screw/shaft can be easily pushed out.
@ibsoarin
10 ай бұрын
@@BradRoss63 I tried to figure out the procedure myself but got stuck when the end thrust bearing cap would not pull out (after the set screw was removed). I didn't know if the end thrust bearing cap pulled straight out or if it was threaded and if threaded was it left or right hand threads. Since the end thrust bearing cap did not come out easily, I presume it is stuck with rust. I have sprayed lubricant around the end thrust bearing cap and will next heat up the area to break rust loose.
@BradRoss63
10 ай бұрын
@@ibsoarin Hopefully the heat will do the trick. Even though it's not threaded, wiggling it back and forth as you're pulling should help.
Пікірлер: 8
Thanks Brad, that’s where I’m at with mine. So is that gasket still available or? Also I can’t get the pin out for the switch rod. Guessing I’d have to drill that. Speaking of gaskets. I also need the round one for the tub, where the agitator bolts on. Thanks
@BradRoss63
11 ай бұрын
I make the gasket with 3/32" cork/rubber sheet from Felpro. I've never seen them for sale online. For the "center plate to tub" gasket, I typically use 1/16" rubberized paper gasket. Regarding the taper pin for the shifter rod - it can be a real challenge to get out! It's best to have the tub removed so as to get the proper angle to bang it out with a punch. The pin is driven out from right to left side (as you're facing the machine). I always apply heat from a torch before attempting to hammer it out. Note: on my latest restoration of the 1936 Model 30, I drilled out the taper pin, but made the mistake of using too large a drill bit, plus the angle was off. So...what resulted in the rod was a too large hole. I rectified it by using a nut and bolt instead of a taper pin. Lesson learned!
Hey Brad cleaning the gunked and dried up grease in the wringer gear section is there only two small ‘BBs’ (balls) for the selector that’s all the came out of mine. Just checking. Thanks
@BradRoss63
5 ай бұрын
I have the parts manual, if you'd like to view the wringer head, or any other parts.
Brad, I am glad to see your tutorial on the Maytag Model 30 wringer washer power unit. I want to replace the worm shaft cork seal with a modern neoprene, National # 471264. I have replaced this seal before without removing the worm and worm shaft but it was very difficult and time consuming. I damaged the housing and worm shaft and do not want to make that mistake again. A video demonstrating the removal of the worm and shaft would be very helpful. You removed the worm shaft in this video, kzread.info/dash/bejne/nX9hqdWJiKmxmLQ.htmlfeature=shared&t=60, but did not show how you did it. Mark.
@BradRoss63
10 ай бұрын
Removing the worm gear and the worm itself is a bit tricky - sorry I didn't include that in the video. But I can explain the procedure here now: First, loosen and remove the set screw on the end thrust bearing cap (part # A4771), which can then be pulled out using a pair of vice grips. Next, while turning the worm screw shaft slowly by hand, the worm gear can be lifted out. Be aware if doing this while there is still grease in the area, it will be quite difficult. It's easier if most of the grease has been removed and some solvent used in the area. After the worm gear has been lifted out, the worm screw/shaft can be easily pushed out.
@ibsoarin
10 ай бұрын
@@BradRoss63 I tried to figure out the procedure myself but got stuck when the end thrust bearing cap would not pull out (after the set screw was removed). I didn't know if the end thrust bearing cap pulled straight out or if it was threaded and if threaded was it left or right hand threads. Since the end thrust bearing cap did not come out easily, I presume it is stuck with rust. I have sprayed lubricant around the end thrust bearing cap and will next heat up the area to break rust loose.
@BradRoss63
10 ай бұрын
@@ibsoarin Hopefully the heat will do the trick. Even though it's not threaded, wiggling it back and forth as you're pulling should help.