it is the best tunnel boat that i see Where i can fount the stl files?
@zilynascimento32652 ай бұрын
🤟🫶💯👏👏👏👏
@zilynascimento32652 ай бұрын
❤
@MrZeek1012 ай бұрын
Love the progress really moving along Take Care
@MrZeek1012 ай бұрын
Got your Ateam going love the tree supports they can do some amazing things take care
@MrZeek1012 ай бұрын
I might have missed it in last Video what type of filament did you use and looking forwrd to next Video
@Witsenburg2 ай бұрын
Hi, thanks for the message. It's regular PLA, printed at 0,2 mm layers with 2 walls.
@Witsenburg2 ай бұрын
But I am working on my own design, with a watertight section and no large air intakes (which take on water and catch air / break the streamlining). cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/rc-f1-powerboat-hull
@MrZeek1012 ай бұрын
Really enjoyed this looking forward to more take care
@yahwbwownwhwu3 ай бұрын
thanks for making this video. had no idea how to unclip this
@PaKoArtsc4 ай бұрын
did you solved this problem?
@Witsenburg4 ай бұрын
It was solved in later updates of rhe firmware, it works fine now.
@user-vo3hc4lc9d6 ай бұрын
Ik zou graag weten hoe ik Uw meetmethode kan maken. Ik wil alleen 2 ledjes laten branden: Rood= Stroom uit het Net en Groen+ Stroom naar het Net. Het gaat mij om het kantel punt en het te schakelen vermogen zijn alleen die 2 Ledjes. Als U mij kan helpen graag dan geef ik U mijn emailadres
@ZED-PV7 ай бұрын
Your mega2560 is dead. I've killed 3 so far like this. Always the same result. Screen is fine.
@kokodin58957 ай бұрын
when i connected my homemade regulator to my arduino (power transistor and zener with some resistors) my arduino did in fact blew up but not as i thought it would, because the only thing that fried was the serial converter chip, which after replacing made arduino 100% working again, later i put 7005 on a radiator and soldered it to the regulator pins although i was using 15V power suply which died soon after but yeah i never understood why people removing the diode and not deal with power regulator itself, might be a bygone from using 5v standby rail of the pc power suply as a 5v suply but in 24v you often don't have that and need another stepdown converter
@edijzerman58807 ай бұрын
Thanks its very usefull
@federicoloffredi246710 ай бұрын
Hi man, I'm experiencing the same issue on mine, it happen when cold, did you solved this enigma!?
@marlalunstrum851810 ай бұрын
One of my favorites. She's a frkg WARRIOR ❣️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
@bighovo Жыл бұрын
What was the outcome? I have a discontinued body I want to make a copy of.
@maxkielbasa6079 Жыл бұрын
That's genius. Did you need to reinforce the plaster with anything?
@Witsenburg Жыл бұрын
Nope, just plaster. Its more than sprong enough.
@UzunKamis Жыл бұрын
Do you think it would be okay to cut _Vin_ pin of Ramps and feed mega from 5V?
@xxborell Жыл бұрын
I did it and worked great except for the lcd screen, when using a 12v or less power suply it work without any problem, but when using the 24v power suply the screen just show rare characters or just don't show a thing. Could you help me with this problem? thanks for the video.
@anothernic Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for the video; saved me a ton of frustration. Kept trying to remove the harness with the door open and ramming the white connector into the door jam. Would've recommended just pulling the rest of the door harness off from inside the doorcard, it's not too bad to get to once you have the plastic tar cover off if the window is up (don't get that crap on your clothes if you can avoid it). Hopefully the soldering wasn't too much of a pain, though. Best.
@tomallen7699 Жыл бұрын
Love her!
@jobin6784 Жыл бұрын
Same issue what to do
@Witsenburg Жыл бұрын
Buy new one. Or claim new one from supplier.
@DeckameronBR Жыл бұрын
brother, how is the boost gauge working with the turbo? stopped jittery?
@Witsenburg Жыл бұрын
It is still a piece of sh*t from AliExpress, soon (relatively) to be replaced by something better.
@DeckameronBR Жыл бұрын
@@Witsenburg I understand, but does it stop working? is it working? do you have instagram so i can see better how it works? make the mod on my car's dashboard, and it is the only one that has this scale before up to 2 bar with receipt
@Witsenburg Жыл бұрын
@@DeckameronBR it works. It's just crude, noisy and the backlight cannot be switched off.
@technischealarmen8105 Жыл бұрын
welke openingspost?
@HansBrodiAutomotive2 жыл бұрын
All very interesting! Where did you get your speeduino kit from? I am planning to convert my NB to speeduino as well. Greetings from Düsseldorf, Germany
@Witsenburg2 жыл бұрын
Hallo Hans, bitte findet mich auf dem Speeduino forum, HugoW, dann hilfe ich dich. Macht spass!
@Nobody-Nowhere2 жыл бұрын
cura 5.0 is better as it has the new variable line width
@dustineputtaert57922 жыл бұрын
I have a s type jaguar 1/10 that is no longer available I might have to give this a try just need a vacuum forming machine lol 👍
@Witsenburg2 жыл бұрын
Yeah, go do it. I will het around to the vacuum bit later, I will then show the simple setup I use. My kitchen oven is big enough to heat the plate, that simplifies things.
@dustineputtaert57922 жыл бұрын
@@Witsenburgthanks for the reply lucky you my cooker isn't big enough I will look into making a plaster molding the way you have otherwise It going to be a lot of Sand to hold the body before I put in the plaster of Paris now only problem I have is I only have 1kg bag if plaster.🙄🙄
@MarinusMakesStuff2 жыл бұрын
I really like this solution, however, I have decided to just use a buck converter and still cut the diode on the ramps board. This is also because I use a raspberry pi with the ramps board and the pi also needs 5v and more amps. The buck converter will provide everything I need, and now thanks to your guide I know exactly how to circumvent the voltage regulator and just send 5v directly to the Mega.
@NeilLund2 жыл бұрын
Do you really needs supports for that print? It looks like you could get away with it from what’s visible in the video.
@Witsenburg2 жыл бұрын
I also tried without, decent result, but I am also tuning the support settings.
@kevinbates35752 жыл бұрын
How long did you wait to pull the body off the fresh plaster?
@Witsenburg2 жыл бұрын
Only about an hour. It's not really dry, yet, just set solid. But I've left it overnight before on other projects, also releasing easily.
@gordonpieterse45952 жыл бұрын
Good day to you, I know this vid was posted 3 years ago. I have the same setup, sbase v1. 3 + tft. Started with smoothieware but it was never perfect. I am now looking at changing to marlin as I cannot get the thermistor inputs to work anymore with smoothie. Checked thermistors, connectors, inputs etc. My sbase just reads - 50 degrees. Going to check if marlin firmware will sort this out. Just a quick question, do I have to alter the firmware for the tft as well or will the base firmware on the screen work as is?
@Witsenburg2 жыл бұрын
I think the TFT works, as it did in the film clip above, but I ditched the screen a long time ago and use OctoPrint as HMI now. Might transfer the whole lot to Klipper, soon, that might be worth a try too if you're going to change anyway. Good luck!
@ranu90512 жыл бұрын
Hi, do you plan to sell the pcb once you finished it ?
@Witsenburg2 жыл бұрын
Hi, yes, I can have some more made with this mistake fixed. I've added a view other features, too. If interested, look me up on the speeduino forum, my name there is HugoW.
@beau97652 жыл бұрын
try lowering your cranking dwell and try 0 degrees cranking advance add some iac air during cranking too if possible, good luck
@STOkitten2 жыл бұрын
Nou het is vrij simpel als je het weet Je stelt eerst je A in En met die -5 en 5 is eigenlijk je draad snelheid Omdat je maar een knop heb moet je dat op een manier in kunnen stellen want normaal staat het apparaat gwn voor onder de hand te lassen Als je dan vertikaal omhoog will lassen kan hey zijn dat je teveel draad heb
@timblevins9773 жыл бұрын
Can you make a video on how to make these or tell me how to wire the warmer please
@guillaumevial18783 жыл бұрын
Where can i found information about the speeduino, i want to run my vvt with but i don't know which one i should choose etc... thanks !
@Witsenburg3 жыл бұрын
Look me up on the Speeduino forum, my username is HugoW.
@chuddyburger9543 жыл бұрын
thanks, clear, concise video. thinking of getting a 1.8 vvt so this helped a bunch
@XIVdot3 жыл бұрын
Good idea, I am using this path without moving readiator backwards to get some ram-air intake tube. But there was place just on the driver side. Moving radiator backwars can make it possible and short intercooler tubing will be good for quicker spool up. :)
@Cairo55553 жыл бұрын
Thnx voor de video. Zit mij suf te zoeken naar een goede uitleg over speeduino op een 1.8 VVT. Ik wil graag mijn originele bekabeling houden, dus het liefst gewoon een 72pin connector op de speeduino. Hoe heb jij dit aangepakt? b.v.d.
@Witsenburg3 жыл бұрын
Hoi, zoek even op HugoW op het speeduino forum, dan leggen we daar contact.
@driftmate48713 жыл бұрын
Hello, I have the same setup Speeduino + 1.8 VVT MX5 04 amd did confront same problem. When I switched to open loop my target angle and actual are then the same.
@Witsenburg3 жыл бұрын
That would be really weird, but since its not working now I'll give it a shot...
@driftmate48713 жыл бұрын
@@Witsenburg Can You find me maybe on Facebook? Name as account here. We will get in touch with those problems I also can't understand closed loop idle control.
@Witsenburg3 жыл бұрын
@@driftmate4871 I'm not very Fakebooky, I am active on the forum:speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4413&p=47751#p47751
@PanosKarachalios3 жыл бұрын
You should change your radiator. When they go brown, they usually split. Also a good place for the IAT is in the plastic pipe just after the filter.
@Witsenburg3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Yes, a (upgraded) radiator is on order, should arrive any day now. The IAT is indeed in the plastic pipe at the moment, will be in the intercooling piping just before the throttle valve when all is done.
@cacoutube3 жыл бұрын
Great idea! Thanks for sharing... I did the same with plates and it has quick saved me!!! Thanks a lot! Greatings from South Brazil!
@SigmaWorksSW3D3 жыл бұрын
Nice one :)
@SigmaWorksSW3D3 жыл бұрын
this is great job done!
@tonyelijah17533 жыл бұрын
Instablaster
@arqpal3 жыл бұрын
The heat of the regulator won't burn the pcb?? I think this may work but the heatsink thighten to the pcb is not a good idea
@joemulkerins52504 жыл бұрын
Didn't work. Would not power up the ramps or arduino. Just made the chip hot.
@adamr86284 жыл бұрын
Is this just as strong, how thick is it? how long do you have to rotate for it to set up?
Пікірлер
Traductor inglés al español.
Can you show how to do the vacuum molding?
Merci ❤
it is the best tunnel boat that i see Where i can fount the stl files?
🤟🫶💯👏👏👏👏
❤
Love the progress really moving along Take Care
Got your Ateam going love the tree supports they can do some amazing things take care
I might have missed it in last Video what type of filament did you use and looking forwrd to next Video
Hi, thanks for the message. It's regular PLA, printed at 0,2 mm layers with 2 walls.
But I am working on my own design, with a watertight section and no large air intakes (which take on water and catch air / break the streamlining). cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/rc-f1-powerboat-hull
Really enjoyed this looking forward to more take care
thanks for making this video. had no idea how to unclip this
did you solved this problem?
It was solved in later updates of rhe firmware, it works fine now.
Ik zou graag weten hoe ik Uw meetmethode kan maken. Ik wil alleen 2 ledjes laten branden: Rood= Stroom uit het Net en Groen+ Stroom naar het Net. Het gaat mij om het kantel punt en het te schakelen vermogen zijn alleen die 2 Ledjes. Als U mij kan helpen graag dan geef ik U mijn emailadres
Your mega2560 is dead. I've killed 3 so far like this. Always the same result. Screen is fine.
when i connected my homemade regulator to my arduino (power transistor and zener with some resistors) my arduino did in fact blew up but not as i thought it would, because the only thing that fried was the serial converter chip, which after replacing made arduino 100% working again, later i put 7005 on a radiator and soldered it to the regulator pins although i was using 15V power suply which died soon after but yeah i never understood why people removing the diode and not deal with power regulator itself, might be a bygone from using 5v standby rail of the pc power suply as a 5v suply but in 24v you often don't have that and need another stepdown converter
Thanks its very usefull
Hi man, I'm experiencing the same issue on mine, it happen when cold, did you solved this enigma!?
One of my favorites. She's a frkg WARRIOR ❣️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
What was the outcome? I have a discontinued body I want to make a copy of.
That's genius. Did you need to reinforce the plaster with anything?
Nope, just plaster. Its more than sprong enough.
Do you think it would be okay to cut _Vin_ pin of Ramps and feed mega from 5V?
I did it and worked great except for the lcd screen, when using a 12v or less power suply it work without any problem, but when using the 24v power suply the screen just show rare characters or just don't show a thing. Could you help me with this problem? thanks for the video.
Thank you so much for the video; saved me a ton of frustration. Kept trying to remove the harness with the door open and ramming the white connector into the door jam. Would've recommended just pulling the rest of the door harness off from inside the doorcard, it's not too bad to get to once you have the plastic tar cover off if the window is up (don't get that crap on your clothes if you can avoid it). Hopefully the soldering wasn't too much of a pain, though. Best.
Love her!
Same issue what to do
Buy new one. Or claim new one from supplier.
brother, how is the boost gauge working with the turbo? stopped jittery?
It is still a piece of sh*t from AliExpress, soon (relatively) to be replaced by something better.
@@Witsenburg I understand, but does it stop working? is it working? do you have instagram so i can see better how it works? make the mod on my car's dashboard, and it is the only one that has this scale before up to 2 bar with receipt
@@DeckameronBR it works. It's just crude, noisy and the backlight cannot be switched off.
welke openingspost?
All very interesting! Where did you get your speeduino kit from? I am planning to convert my NB to speeduino as well. Greetings from Düsseldorf, Germany
Hallo Hans, bitte findet mich auf dem Speeduino forum, HugoW, dann hilfe ich dich. Macht spass!
cura 5.0 is better as it has the new variable line width
I have a s type jaguar 1/10 that is no longer available I might have to give this a try just need a vacuum forming machine lol 👍
Yeah, go do it. I will het around to the vacuum bit later, I will then show the simple setup I use. My kitchen oven is big enough to heat the plate, that simplifies things.
@@Witsenburgthanks for the reply lucky you my cooker isn't big enough I will look into making a plaster molding the way you have otherwise It going to be a lot of Sand to hold the body before I put in the plaster of Paris now only problem I have is I only have 1kg bag if plaster.🙄🙄
I really like this solution, however, I have decided to just use a buck converter and still cut the diode on the ramps board. This is also because I use a raspberry pi with the ramps board and the pi also needs 5v and more amps. The buck converter will provide everything I need, and now thanks to your guide I know exactly how to circumvent the voltage regulator and just send 5v directly to the Mega.
Do you really needs supports for that print? It looks like you could get away with it from what’s visible in the video.
I also tried without, decent result, but I am also tuning the support settings.
How long did you wait to pull the body off the fresh plaster?
Only about an hour. It's not really dry, yet, just set solid. But I've left it overnight before on other projects, also releasing easily.
Good day to you, I know this vid was posted 3 years ago. I have the same setup, sbase v1. 3 + tft. Started with smoothieware but it was never perfect. I am now looking at changing to marlin as I cannot get the thermistor inputs to work anymore with smoothie. Checked thermistors, connectors, inputs etc. My sbase just reads - 50 degrees. Going to check if marlin firmware will sort this out. Just a quick question, do I have to alter the firmware for the tft as well or will the base firmware on the screen work as is?
I think the TFT works, as it did in the film clip above, but I ditched the screen a long time ago and use OctoPrint as HMI now. Might transfer the whole lot to Klipper, soon, that might be worth a try too if you're going to change anyway. Good luck!
Hi, do you plan to sell the pcb once you finished it ?
Hi, yes, I can have some more made with this mistake fixed. I've added a view other features, too. If interested, look me up on the speeduino forum, my name there is HugoW.
try lowering your cranking dwell and try 0 degrees cranking advance add some iac air during cranking too if possible, good luck
Nou het is vrij simpel als je het weet Je stelt eerst je A in En met die -5 en 5 is eigenlijk je draad snelheid Omdat je maar een knop heb moet je dat op een manier in kunnen stellen want normaal staat het apparaat gwn voor onder de hand te lassen Als je dan vertikaal omhoog will lassen kan hey zijn dat je teveel draad heb
Can you make a video on how to make these or tell me how to wire the warmer please
Where can i found information about the speeduino, i want to run my vvt with but i don't know which one i should choose etc... thanks !
Look me up on the Speeduino forum, my username is HugoW.
thanks, clear, concise video. thinking of getting a 1.8 vvt so this helped a bunch
Good idea, I am using this path without moving readiator backwards to get some ram-air intake tube. But there was place just on the driver side. Moving radiator backwars can make it possible and short intercooler tubing will be good for quicker spool up. :)
Thnx voor de video. Zit mij suf te zoeken naar een goede uitleg over speeduino op een 1.8 VVT. Ik wil graag mijn originele bekabeling houden, dus het liefst gewoon een 72pin connector op de speeduino. Hoe heb jij dit aangepakt? b.v.d.
Hoi, zoek even op HugoW op het speeduino forum, dan leggen we daar contact.
Hello, I have the same setup Speeduino + 1.8 VVT MX5 04 amd did confront same problem. When I switched to open loop my target angle and actual are then the same.
That would be really weird, but since its not working now I'll give it a shot...
@@Witsenburg Can You find me maybe on Facebook? Name as account here. We will get in touch with those problems I also can't understand closed loop idle control.
@@driftmate4871 I'm not very Fakebooky, I am active on the forum:speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=4413&p=47751#p47751
You should change your radiator. When they go brown, they usually split. Also a good place for the IAT is in the plastic pipe just after the filter.
Thanks! Yes, a (upgraded) radiator is on order, should arrive any day now. The IAT is indeed in the plastic pipe at the moment, will be in the intercooling piping just before the throttle valve when all is done.
Great idea! Thanks for sharing... I did the same with plates and it has quick saved me!!! Thanks a lot! Greatings from South Brazil!
Nice one :)
this is great job done!
Instablaster
The heat of the regulator won't burn the pcb?? I think this may work but the heatsink thighten to the pcb is not a good idea
Didn't work. Would not power up the ramps or arduino. Just made the chip hot.
Is this just as strong, how thick is it? how long do you have to rotate for it to set up?