So @ 2:45 , there are two hoses that are running down the left hand side of the carb from the factory. The goal is to re-route BOTH of those hoses correct? Right side one is pulled back through to the right side and routed upward, and left side one is routed up the left side. Leaving both Tee fittings as they are, did I get that correct? Seems like the left hand one (with tee under the TPS sensor wire) might have to make a 180deg U bend? Is pinching an issue here? might be good to warn/describe?
@oldfashionedwrx3574Ай бұрын
That first steep hill, how was it on a motorcycle, ive done it loads in car...
@Uppermost_12 ай бұрын
Great video. I just discovered this preventative maintenance for my DRZ
@beejoutbush33224 ай бұрын
Every 1500ks? Seems a bit soon for engine oil
@peterorro8834 ай бұрын
Thanks very much! Very helpful and instructional for this novice having a crack at self maintenance.
@mikethompson70464 ай бұрын
Sir do you know if there are locking gas caps for the IMS tanks ?
@jesseblack11945 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video!
@WESTOZEXPLORING5 ай бұрын
You're welcome!
@DualSportDoug5 ай бұрын
Excellent video. My DRZ has been leaking oil at the little rubber grommet that houses the stator wires where they go through the case. I fixed it two years ago, but it still leaks. I think it's also leaking at the starter gear cover. I am installing a new stator from Electrosport, which is supposedly a higher output ,a new gasket and new o-ring sometime this weekend.
@dashupgaming7 ай бұрын
We wajo bell stu ingles maccheronico ahaha
@idiotbox.7 ай бұрын
Cheers mate, what size is the banjo bolt ?
@Biake227 ай бұрын
awesome warning how the bushing goes missing at the end of the video oh btw don't lose the bushing when you first removed the cover. lesson to myself, do more research in forums and manual before videos.
@omflyer15358 ай бұрын
I'm looking to buy a Suzuki Drz 400 SM i did notice some kinda glue/? around the timing plug bolt. It has only 1600 miles and runs great, nothing leaking as it runs. Should i be concerned?
@peteracke22099 ай бұрын
Very well presented
@sovetea359910 ай бұрын
Definetly a worthwile mod, cant say no to less weight and more capacity
@LukasAllTheNumbers10 ай бұрын
Whilst I wish so so much it was clearer which T peice hose was being rerouted earlier, this video was really handy for doing this mod. Cheers!
@rusted540810 ай бұрын
I wonder.if you know... I have a 2000 or 2002 drz400E. It has an odometer only. Do you know if I can upgrade to a speedometer?
@NomadMotorCo10 ай бұрын
Thanks for posting this. Just had my Speedo cable snap the exact same way on my 2021
@flaash1067 Жыл бұрын
Great video, I hope that's all that's wrong with my speedo 😅
@carlosbambos Жыл бұрын
Hey. Thanks for the vid. Is there a way to contact you? I need your brains.
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
If can find Perth Adventure Riders and join the group will find me through there 😁
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Perth Adventure Riders viola Facebook
@user-ff7cl9ls3f Жыл бұрын
Hi mate just watching yr video and can you clarify whick side of the T piece are to hoses that need to be rerouted Is it the top or bottom of the T on bothe sides of bike ?? Thanks kn advance rick
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Top on both sides sorry Rick, apologise if not clear in the video!
@mattshehan3678 Жыл бұрын
Hi mate, are you able to share the gps coordinates of this ride?
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Hi, are you joined up with Perth Adventure Riders? Think the GPX file is available there, I don't have my Rever account anymore
@wa7215 Жыл бұрын
Just a hopefully, helpful tip for you WestOz. I noticed you mentioned using WD40, to lube, the wiring harness connector for the headlight. A much better and ‘industrial quality’ product for such work, is called “LanoTec” and it comes in a spray can like WD, as well as in both hand held spray-pump bottles and also bulk size containers as well. It is an Australian made and owned Lanolin based product and it doesn’t dry out/evaporate off, like both the WD40 and RP7 stuff does, with the passage of time, and so, unlike them, it doesn’t lose either, of its lubricating, or, waterproofing properties, over time, on anything it is used on. It comes in two grades, ‘General Purpose’ and ‘Heavy Duty’ and is also excellent, as a long life anti-galling lubricant whenever using Stainless Steel Fasteners. Just one other ‘tip’ to know about using the spray can version, make sure that every time you finish using it, ‘with’ the also supplied little clear plastic ‘spray-director’ tube, for getting it into tight/difficult places, that you always detach the tube, from the can’s spray nozzle, and then ‘blow’ thought the little tube onto a rag, or tissue, that is held against the other end of the tube, to clear, out of it, any small last traces of any residual LanoTec that still remains in the tube, otherwise once the ‘temporary’ solvent that carries, the actual LanoTec, evaporates out of the tube, any even, small amount of LanoTec ‘remaining’ inside the tube will form a ‘plug’ in the tube and block it up, which is no big deal, but just means wasted time next time, while you try unblocking the tube. 😉👍
@wa7215 Жыл бұрын
Just one more comment, WestOz, I did notice, that when you dropped off the bash-plate, that there were 4, EMPTY, and RUSTY, Bolt holes, staring at me, in the bottom of your bike’s FRAME, from where, I presume, there was probably an original shitty little factory bash-plate fitted.? Anyway, don’t you think that it would be a good idea to ‘fill up’ those 4 big empty rusty bolt holes in your bike’s Frame, with some suitable ‘greased’ Bolts, especially, if you are doing water crossings. After all, a FRAME, that is ‘allowed’, to get regularly filled, with muddy creek water, especially at that ‘prone to stress-flexing, point’ right below the full weight of the engine, MUST, be already, getting RUSTED, FROM THE INSIDE. 😳 It would certainly make a ‘spectacular’ video, for us, your avid audience, to see you, one day down the track, ‘Getting Some BIG Air’ over a big jump, only to then see your bike’s Frame SPLIT, in halves underneath your engine, and immediately bottom-out onto the dirt, upon landing, with most likely VERY DIRE CONSEQUENCES, for YOU, as a result of your bike’s Frame having ‘Rusted Out’, from the inside, underneath the engine, just for the sake of 4 lousy ‘missing’ but, cheap, and, empty-hole-filling ‘greased’ Bolts. 🙄😉👍
@wa7215 Жыл бұрын
Great stuff..! Thanks for the helpful and informative video. 😉👍
@wa7215 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for your video. 😉👍 I am just about to buy one of these SSB Li Batteries to replace the current cheap yellow Motobatt (and ‘Sick’) LeadAcid one that is in my own recently purchased, but 2nd hand DRZ, so it will be interesting to see how it all goes. Just a hopefully helpful, comment on LeadAcid type Batteries though. I have ALWAYS, for over 2 decades now, been using one of the little readily available ‘Smart, Battery-Tender Trickle Chargers’ on all of my bikes, that are fitted with LA type Batteries and I HIGHLY recommend them to anyone who is still relying upon one of those LA type Batteries. They really do work, at keeping the LA type Batteries in tip top condition, without any risk of over-charging them, and providing that they are connected to your LA type Battery EVERY TIME, that you come back from a ride and park the bike in the shed, (and then forget about it until the next ride, which for me, can easily be months away) they will keep those LA types in good working condition for years. I have routinely, gotten 5 years of useful life out of my YUASA brand, LA type bike Batteries while I have been using these little ‘Smart’ Trickle Chargers on my bikes. They are very cheap insurance, and a hell of a lot cheaper, to buy just once, and use, every time, instead of buying and replacing, expensive, and ‘STUFFED’ LA Batteries, multiple times, that have died as a result of ‘owner neglect’ and the resulting ‘Sulphation’ of their plates, because they have been ‘ignored’, for too long, and left to gradually go flat in the bike. First thing I will be doing though, when I fit the new SSB Li Battery to my DRZ, is ‘checking’ whether there is, ANY, residual ‘Parasitic, Current Drain’ from the bike, happening on it, when the bike is left, Off, and Parked in my shed, and if there is, I will then be buying a new small ‘Smart, Trickle Charger’ Battery-Tender, that is ‘Suitable For Use’ with, Lithium Batteries, and wiring it in via a ‘Permanent, Easy-Connect & Disconnect, and, FUSED, Cable’ for it, that will be wired directly onto my new, and, Expensive, SSB Battery. 😉
@wa7215 Жыл бұрын
Good stuff 👍 Thanks for sharing, just got myself 2nd hand DRZ and no service manual came with it so this info is just what I needed for doing my first service on it until I can get myself a copy of the owners service manual for it. 😉 I’ve just found your YT channel and I very much appreciate your own efforts in making your straight talking and very interesting videos on your own DRZ adventures. 👍
@wouterviaene887 Жыл бұрын
Great video, thank you! Where did you get the chain guard around the front sprocket? Looks effective and sturdy!
@mjmjphillips Жыл бұрын
Great video mate. Thank you!
@colinbuser3765 Жыл бұрын
when it stops working does the mileage reading stop too? on mine the speedo doesn't work and the odometer isn't going up when i ride is this because the cable is broke? any help is appreciated!
@jpskiskate20002 ай бұрын
yes
@benjaminfrankliniii9857 Жыл бұрын
Do you still ride?
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Hi Benjamin, I do but unfortunately a few personal event has put new content on the backstep for a whilst, looking to return into the channel soon
@aaatmusic Жыл бұрын
I requested to join your group on Facebook but have not heard back. I am getting an adventure bike very soon and would love to join in on some rides with you guys.
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Hi aaatmusic, just confirming it was Perth Adventure Riders and you answered all the questions? Note we have a buy and sell page too
@aaatmusic Жыл бұрын
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Hi. Yes I have already been accepted on the buy and sell page. Yes I answered all the questions.
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Ok if your still not in put a post on the buy and sell page asking admin to contact you, will help get you in that way
@georgefairweathermoonlight4 Жыл бұрын
in the manual it says check oil by running bike for 3min let stand for 3min then check without threadind dipstick, do you do it this way?
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Yep that's spot on, I'm not really watching the time as such, you will get the feel of what's right
@darylzampese1855 Жыл бұрын
Go the 400,,👍
@kenb85442 жыл бұрын
Hi westoz, did you change the regulator or stick with the std?
@WESTOZEXPLORING Жыл бұрын
Hi Jen, all still standard
@mr.s89192 жыл бұрын
What size are the idler gear cover bolts? Thanks.
@ZH2.2 жыл бұрын
Which headlight lamp do you have?
@benjaminadams38132 жыл бұрын
I also just had the motor rebuilt a week ago, so this one hurts 🙁
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Ah damn, did these fail for you?
@benjaminadams38132 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the very information video! I was hoping to send you a private message, but this is just as well. I have a 2009 DRZ 400sm. I just cracked a whole in the stator cover. The shifter lever punched a hole in the side when I dropped it like dim whit. I’ve managed to get it disassembled, but my question is do you think jb weld on both the inside and outside of the cover will suffice to close the hole?
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Hi Benjamin! Sorry for the delayed response, JB weld and other similar products can certainly work, remember it is only crankcase pressure against it and a neat job will work. Most riders I have seen carry out as a temporary repair and usually replace once back in home. Could last the life of the bike though saying that!
@cam030222 жыл бұрын
Love your videos mate! Very helpful. I'm not very mechanically confident and I don't think I would have been game to tackle this job without this video. One thing I'd add is some people recommended to me that I clean out the bolt hole/female threads (not sure of the name) as best as you can too, so the loctite binds. I used brake cleaner and a tiny bottle brush used for metal straws and quite a bit of crap came out.
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for that workshop tip Campbell! Glad you have enjoyed the videos, I have had a break from the channel for a bit but hope to be back into it soon!
@cam030222 жыл бұрын
@@WESTOZEXPLORING nice! I look forward to more of your content!
@MrBluto992 жыл бұрын
A (maybe) minor point...the crosshead screws are very likely JIS, NOT Phillips. These are very easy to strip if you use a Phillips driver, though FWIW a JIS driver usually works well on Phillips screws. In a pinch you can grind a bit off the tip of a Phillips driver and it will fit JIS screws much better.
@lumberjaxe89102 жыл бұрын
Mate can i ask why you put the black DRZ400e in the thumbnail but didnt show it. Cheers.
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Ah it is the same bike, just in the video is fitted with the larger safari clear tank! That photo is in a scenic spot just the hillclimb up from the river. One of my favourite lookouts in Moondyne 🙂
@lumberjaxe89102 жыл бұрын
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Ok thanks.Enjoymthe DRZ400 videos.. Cheers.
@trinc522 жыл бұрын
Wat ones do you mean the ones on the t piece or the ones beside the t piece
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
On the T piece Trin C, should be two hoses either side. Run the top hoses up
@trinc522 жыл бұрын
So this just helps with big water crossing
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Sure does, on anything higher than the bottom suspension linkage
@fletchersfixit63582 жыл бұрын
im in the us but my drz does not have grease points
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Hi Fletcher's Fixit, looking into this only the E models have these,. would yours be an S or SM model? In Australia, the E model is registered for road use so makes up 95% of sales
@keldonator Жыл бұрын
Dang how are we supposed to grease our stuff lol, gotta take everything apart?
@worldsokayestmedic45682 жыл бұрын
Very helpful!
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Glad to be of assistance!
@wooblebloc2 жыл бұрын
What’s the service intervals like on these things?? They are not like the ktm etc are they
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Hi Andrew, old Husqvarna motor which is higher performance than say a DRZ or KLR, Attilio did err on the side of caution and serviced very regular. Didn't stop overnight adventure rides but serviced frequently. Actually unsure what the recommendation from SWM is
@johneubanks30992 жыл бұрын
Awesome video j just got my first bike a 04E converted to SM it’s in need of some maintenance glad to have this video ! No mechanical background this is exactly what I need thanks for sharing!
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Thanks John, will be a good bike and being an E model all tips in this video should be applicable. Aimed this video to be for someone to be able to walk through with minimal prior mechanical experience! Good luck! You might find the Loctite and water crossing modification videos on the channel helpful too 👍
@johneubanks30992 жыл бұрын
I’ll definitely give it a look as well. For now I’ll have this video with me on Friday as I do my first oil change. I find this type of video priceless so thank you again for your time and effort to share it with us! Gives a great explanation and gives a beginner confidence to tackle it without paying $500+ to a dealership mechanic.
@serverlan7632 жыл бұрын
Should the bike be warm (run) before you change the oil?
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Hi Serverlan 7, yes sure can have it warm, will drain quicker and has just circulated between sump and frame, hopefully the video helps, good luck!
@MrEtnorb2 жыл бұрын
I will never understand the take up of 200 kg+ adv bikes. So expensive, hard to pick up and very costly when dropped.
@WESTOZEXPLORING2 жыл бұрын
Yeah I certainly seem to get a work out on these group rides lifting bike's, the DRZ is heavy enough!
Пікірлер
So @ 2:45 , there are two hoses that are running down the left hand side of the carb from the factory. The goal is to re-route BOTH of those hoses correct? Right side one is pulled back through to the right side and routed upward, and left side one is routed up the left side. Leaving both Tee fittings as they are, did I get that correct? Seems like the left hand one (with tee under the TPS sensor wire) might have to make a 180deg U bend? Is pinching an issue here? might be good to warn/describe?
That first steep hill, how was it on a motorcycle, ive done it loads in car...
Great video. I just discovered this preventative maintenance for my DRZ
Every 1500ks? Seems a bit soon for engine oil
Thanks very much! Very helpful and instructional for this novice having a crack at self maintenance.
Sir do you know if there are locking gas caps for the IMS tanks ?
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome!
Excellent video. My DRZ has been leaking oil at the little rubber grommet that houses the stator wires where they go through the case. I fixed it two years ago, but it still leaks. I think it's also leaking at the starter gear cover. I am installing a new stator from Electrosport, which is supposedly a higher output ,a new gasket and new o-ring sometime this weekend.
We wajo bell stu ingles maccheronico ahaha
Cheers mate, what size is the banjo bolt ?
awesome warning how the bushing goes missing at the end of the video oh btw don't lose the bushing when you first removed the cover. lesson to myself, do more research in forums and manual before videos.
I'm looking to buy a Suzuki Drz 400 SM i did notice some kinda glue/? around the timing plug bolt. It has only 1600 miles and runs great, nothing leaking as it runs. Should i be concerned?
Very well presented
Definetly a worthwile mod, cant say no to less weight and more capacity
Whilst I wish so so much it was clearer which T peice hose was being rerouted earlier, this video was really handy for doing this mod. Cheers!
I wonder.if you know... I have a 2000 or 2002 drz400E. It has an odometer only. Do you know if I can upgrade to a speedometer?
Thanks for posting this. Just had my Speedo cable snap the exact same way on my 2021
Great video, I hope that's all that's wrong with my speedo 😅
Hey. Thanks for the vid. Is there a way to contact you? I need your brains.
If can find Perth Adventure Riders and join the group will find me through there 😁
Perth Adventure Riders viola Facebook
Hi mate just watching yr video and can you clarify whick side of the T piece are to hoses that need to be rerouted Is it the top or bottom of the T on bothe sides of bike ?? Thanks kn advance rick
Top on both sides sorry Rick, apologise if not clear in the video!
Hi mate, are you able to share the gps coordinates of this ride?
Hi, are you joined up with Perth Adventure Riders? Think the GPX file is available there, I don't have my Rever account anymore
Just a hopefully, helpful tip for you WestOz. I noticed you mentioned using WD40, to lube, the wiring harness connector for the headlight. A much better and ‘industrial quality’ product for such work, is called “LanoTec” and it comes in a spray can like WD, as well as in both hand held spray-pump bottles and also bulk size containers as well. It is an Australian made and owned Lanolin based product and it doesn’t dry out/evaporate off, like both the WD40 and RP7 stuff does, with the passage of time, and so, unlike them, it doesn’t lose either, of its lubricating, or, waterproofing properties, over time, on anything it is used on. It comes in two grades, ‘General Purpose’ and ‘Heavy Duty’ and is also excellent, as a long life anti-galling lubricant whenever using Stainless Steel Fasteners. Just one other ‘tip’ to know about using the spray can version, make sure that every time you finish using it, ‘with’ the also supplied little clear plastic ‘spray-director’ tube, for getting it into tight/difficult places, that you always detach the tube, from the can’s spray nozzle, and then ‘blow’ thought the little tube onto a rag, or tissue, that is held against the other end of the tube, to clear, out of it, any small last traces of any residual LanoTec that still remains in the tube, otherwise once the ‘temporary’ solvent that carries, the actual LanoTec, evaporates out of the tube, any even, small amount of LanoTec ‘remaining’ inside the tube will form a ‘plug’ in the tube and block it up, which is no big deal, but just means wasted time next time, while you try unblocking the tube. 😉👍
Just one more comment, WestOz, I did notice, that when you dropped off the bash-plate, that there were 4, EMPTY, and RUSTY, Bolt holes, staring at me, in the bottom of your bike’s FRAME, from where, I presume, there was probably an original shitty little factory bash-plate fitted.? Anyway, don’t you think that it would be a good idea to ‘fill up’ those 4 big empty rusty bolt holes in your bike’s Frame, with some suitable ‘greased’ Bolts, especially, if you are doing water crossings. After all, a FRAME, that is ‘allowed’, to get regularly filled, with muddy creek water, especially at that ‘prone to stress-flexing, point’ right below the full weight of the engine, MUST, be already, getting RUSTED, FROM THE INSIDE. 😳 It would certainly make a ‘spectacular’ video, for us, your avid audience, to see you, one day down the track, ‘Getting Some BIG Air’ over a big jump, only to then see your bike’s Frame SPLIT, in halves underneath your engine, and immediately bottom-out onto the dirt, upon landing, with most likely VERY DIRE CONSEQUENCES, for YOU, as a result of your bike’s Frame having ‘Rusted Out’, from the inside, underneath the engine, just for the sake of 4 lousy ‘missing’ but, cheap, and, empty-hole-filling ‘greased’ Bolts. 🙄😉👍
Great stuff..! Thanks for the helpful and informative video. 😉👍
Thanks for your video. 😉👍 I am just about to buy one of these SSB Li Batteries to replace the current cheap yellow Motobatt (and ‘Sick’) LeadAcid one that is in my own recently purchased, but 2nd hand DRZ, so it will be interesting to see how it all goes. Just a hopefully helpful, comment on LeadAcid type Batteries though. I have ALWAYS, for over 2 decades now, been using one of the little readily available ‘Smart, Battery-Tender Trickle Chargers’ on all of my bikes, that are fitted with LA type Batteries and I HIGHLY recommend them to anyone who is still relying upon one of those LA type Batteries. They really do work, at keeping the LA type Batteries in tip top condition, without any risk of over-charging them, and providing that they are connected to your LA type Battery EVERY TIME, that you come back from a ride and park the bike in the shed, (and then forget about it until the next ride, which for me, can easily be months away) they will keep those LA types in good working condition for years. I have routinely, gotten 5 years of useful life out of my YUASA brand, LA type bike Batteries while I have been using these little ‘Smart’ Trickle Chargers on my bikes. They are very cheap insurance, and a hell of a lot cheaper, to buy just once, and use, every time, instead of buying and replacing, expensive, and ‘STUFFED’ LA Batteries, multiple times, that have died as a result of ‘owner neglect’ and the resulting ‘Sulphation’ of their plates, because they have been ‘ignored’, for too long, and left to gradually go flat in the bike. First thing I will be doing though, when I fit the new SSB Li Battery to my DRZ, is ‘checking’ whether there is, ANY, residual ‘Parasitic, Current Drain’ from the bike, happening on it, when the bike is left, Off, and Parked in my shed, and if there is, I will then be buying a new small ‘Smart, Trickle Charger’ Battery-Tender, that is ‘Suitable For Use’ with, Lithium Batteries, and wiring it in via a ‘Permanent, Easy-Connect & Disconnect, and, FUSED, Cable’ for it, that will be wired directly onto my new, and, Expensive, SSB Battery. 😉
Good stuff 👍 Thanks for sharing, just got myself 2nd hand DRZ and no service manual came with it so this info is just what I needed for doing my first service on it until I can get myself a copy of the owners service manual for it. 😉 I’ve just found your YT channel and I very much appreciate your own efforts in making your straight talking and very interesting videos on your own DRZ adventures. 👍
Great video, thank you! Where did you get the chain guard around the front sprocket? Looks effective and sturdy!
Great video mate. Thank you!
when it stops working does the mileage reading stop too? on mine the speedo doesn't work and the odometer isn't going up when i ride is this because the cable is broke? any help is appreciated!
yes
Do you still ride?
Hi Benjamin, I do but unfortunately a few personal event has put new content on the backstep for a whilst, looking to return into the channel soon
I requested to join your group on Facebook but have not heard back. I am getting an adventure bike very soon and would love to join in on some rides with you guys.
Hi aaatmusic, just confirming it was Perth Adventure Riders and you answered all the questions? Note we have a buy and sell page too
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Hi. Yes I have already been accepted on the buy and sell page. Yes I answered all the questions.
Ok if your still not in put a post on the buy and sell page asking admin to contact you, will help get you in that way
in the manual it says check oil by running bike for 3min let stand for 3min then check without threadind dipstick, do you do it this way?
Yep that's spot on, I'm not really watching the time as such, you will get the feel of what's right
Go the 400,,👍
Hi westoz, did you change the regulator or stick with the std?
Hi Jen, all still standard
What size are the idler gear cover bolts? Thanks.
Which headlight lamp do you have?
I also just had the motor rebuilt a week ago, so this one hurts 🙁
Ah damn, did these fail for you?
Thank you for the very information video! I was hoping to send you a private message, but this is just as well. I have a 2009 DRZ 400sm. I just cracked a whole in the stator cover. The shifter lever punched a hole in the side when I dropped it like dim whit. I’ve managed to get it disassembled, but my question is do you think jb weld on both the inside and outside of the cover will suffice to close the hole?
Hi Benjamin! Sorry for the delayed response, JB weld and other similar products can certainly work, remember it is only crankcase pressure against it and a neat job will work. Most riders I have seen carry out as a temporary repair and usually replace once back in home. Could last the life of the bike though saying that!
Love your videos mate! Very helpful. I'm not very mechanically confident and I don't think I would have been game to tackle this job without this video. One thing I'd add is some people recommended to me that I clean out the bolt hole/female threads (not sure of the name) as best as you can too, so the loctite binds. I used brake cleaner and a tiny bottle brush used for metal straws and quite a bit of crap came out.
Thanks for that workshop tip Campbell! Glad you have enjoyed the videos, I have had a break from the channel for a bit but hope to be back into it soon!
@@WESTOZEXPLORING nice! I look forward to more of your content!
A (maybe) minor point...the crosshead screws are very likely JIS, NOT Phillips. These are very easy to strip if you use a Phillips driver, though FWIW a JIS driver usually works well on Phillips screws. In a pinch you can grind a bit off the tip of a Phillips driver and it will fit JIS screws much better.
Mate can i ask why you put the black DRZ400e in the thumbnail but didnt show it. Cheers.
Ah it is the same bike, just in the video is fitted with the larger safari clear tank! That photo is in a scenic spot just the hillclimb up from the river. One of my favourite lookouts in Moondyne 🙂
@@WESTOZEXPLORING Ok thanks.Enjoymthe DRZ400 videos.. Cheers.
Wat ones do you mean the ones on the t piece or the ones beside the t piece
On the T piece Trin C, should be two hoses either side. Run the top hoses up
So this just helps with big water crossing
Sure does, on anything higher than the bottom suspension linkage
im in the us but my drz does not have grease points
Hi Fletcher's Fixit, looking into this only the E models have these,. would yours be an S or SM model? In Australia, the E model is registered for road use so makes up 95% of sales
Dang how are we supposed to grease our stuff lol, gotta take everything apart?
Very helpful!
Glad to be of assistance!
What’s the service intervals like on these things?? They are not like the ktm etc are they
Hi Andrew, old Husqvarna motor which is higher performance than say a DRZ or KLR, Attilio did err on the side of caution and serviced very regular. Didn't stop overnight adventure rides but serviced frequently. Actually unsure what the recommendation from SWM is
Awesome video j just got my first bike a 04E converted to SM it’s in need of some maintenance glad to have this video ! No mechanical background this is exactly what I need thanks for sharing!
Thanks John, will be a good bike and being an E model all tips in this video should be applicable. Aimed this video to be for someone to be able to walk through with minimal prior mechanical experience! Good luck! You might find the Loctite and water crossing modification videos on the channel helpful too 👍
I’ll definitely give it a look as well. For now I’ll have this video with me on Friday as I do my first oil change. I find this type of video priceless so thank you again for your time and effort to share it with us! Gives a great explanation and gives a beginner confidence to tackle it without paying $500+ to a dealership mechanic.
Should the bike be warm (run) before you change the oil?
Hi Serverlan 7, yes sure can have it warm, will drain quicker and has just circulated between sump and frame, hopefully the video helps, good luck!
I will never understand the take up of 200 kg+ adv bikes. So expensive, hard to pick up and very costly when dropped.
Yeah I certainly seem to get a work out on these group rides lifting bike's, the DRZ is heavy enough!
👍🏿