Welcome to my channel, I've been into the RC Hobby dating back to the early 80's mostly with off-road buggies and then transitioned to on road nitro.
As with most of us life gets in the way of the hobby and you slowly change interests Fast forward to 2009 with a simple trip to the local hobby shop to try to find parts for my vintage fleet of RC cars, only to walk into the world of 3D Helicopters and Mulitrotors. The first attempts at flying were a challenge and getting help with radio gear and poorly written instructions was discouraging. KZread was a great help but I found most videos lacked the details I needed. I needed to know why people used what they used for gear, what made the model fly better, how could I get more flight time. I was never 100% satisfied with the level of information I could find, so here I am now with my own channel sharing what I have learned and tested. The channel will not focus just on RC but on new hobbies and interests.
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Hi, Can you please give me the parts needed for the winch mounting bracket including the size of the bolts/nuts and remote control.
Naaa we didn’t actually need to see it pull the mower up all the way.
you'll be looking inside it again very soon is my prediction.
Lasted until fall of 23. Gearbox died, followed by magic smoke.
So how did you bolt the winch plate to the bed?
Sooo what about your fresh water tank? Sewage lines etc?
Empty the fresh water tank, leave the fresh water drain valve open. Sewage lines are typically empty and dry. Make sure to drain your outside and storage faucets. They should run pink when winterized.
sensitivity seems very low. Even my home made pi detector is more sensitive than that. Equinox 800 would easily double that sensitivity as well
where did u put the bearing ur referring to...you dont show it ...with the poor video quality i cant tell what ur talkin about
Been having issues with my Goblin 500 with blade pitch not matching - + is always different numbers. Reaching for a 12+ 12- 0 neutral.
Straight, not curved ramps and the deck might hang up on the tailgate. Backing a Wheel Horse tractor off of a truck once the deck caught one of the ramps which fell to the ground and the tractor flipped backwards to the right. Thankfully I wasn’t on the tractor. Scared the 💩 out of me.
Why did you cut the video before pulling it up the ramp?? DId it work or not??
Part three of the video was lost because of a bad gopro, I had no time or patience after that to record another video. I eventually traded the truck in for a tundra and moved on with life. It did work, the issue I had was the length of the controller wire I wish it was longer or the controller was wireless. The steering on the tractor would need to be adjusted during the pull to maintain ramp alignment.
Wanted to see it come up the ramp…☹️
When I create animations in 3D that runs with dinamics/scripts the helli Central-Gravity must be right or it will cause many problems. Just like the airplane the CG must be balanced before adjusting anything. Think where in the Helicopter CG (XYZ) is go from there. My 130X flys super smooth with zero vibration, important for me cause I fly FVP with all my drones, cars, helicopters , etc. Vibration is the leading cause of bad video. Also adjusting the Gyro in a Curve/Mixes on the radio will eliminate vibrations. Anyway, good tips there! Anything helps.
How did you attached the winch mount to the bed rails? Did you drill a hole on the truck bed!
Watch part one of the video, I explain briefly how it attached it using the bed rails.
I wish someone would make a video if some millitary buttons, flat buttons, pewter buttons, etc
I do have military buttons and flat buttons that I found using the ATPro. Numbers are for reference only, listen to the machines tones, learn to distinguish a good target from a bad target by its tone.
I have this same model. It’s been a champ for 8 years. Oil change once a year. I’ve put grease into it once. Low maintenance.
I bought one of these at home depot it lasted 8 seasons before the impellar bearing broke. I feel this is a cheaply made snow blower and do not recommend it. I defently won't be buying another!
Trying to fond a hp rating for these guys. Just for comparison sake. They rate everything in Nm and others do hp
just use compressed air and pink stuff in traps all done no work in spring time
i want those beans
Change the angle of the ramps or place a piece of round PVC pipe under the cable. The nylon outer covering helps prevent chaffing.
How do you avoid the cable grinding away the truck tailgate?
thanks for posting , just bought a used AT pro and i thought it was busted for the signal jumping all around , looks like its common - or mine does the same as yours
If you have alot of electro magnetic or radio frequency noise such as from transformers or wifi boosters you will get noise and your machine will act eradictly. Try another location, ground balance and see if the problem improves. Also fresh batteries on my machine makes a difference.
I'm pretty impressed you changed out everything to LED. I mean its pretty common in 2020, but you did that back in the spring of 2011.
where did you get the battery?
Tractor Supply, it's a jumper box.
Great video boss!
Thanks, don't forget the outdoor shower port and the hot cold faucet in the front storage.
Got it. On my last camper a Forest River one year I forgot the water heater. Noticed it in January when it was split wide open. $500 later.....won't miss that again.
What size bolts and washers did you use
I no longer have the truck or the hardware. I used what I had available at the time and made it work.
And all of these, everywhere by everybody, are done wrong. Many uncontrolled variables, where there must only be ONE, (the prop), if the test is to be meaningful. The voltage could be fixed, from a regulated supply if need be. Motor efficiency is affected by volt current ratio, and can corrupt the result. You could do it with a watt-meter, and a fixed input in watts, But the voltage drop must not increase with battery depletion. And must be identical across all items in the test. Throttled to identical current leaving the only variable the prop. The highest thrust for an identical current is the winner. You could throttle to a fixed amount of thrust, The prop that gives that thrust at the lowest current/watt is the winner. By measuring for only a single moving variable, you have an understandable and accurate measure of what your looking for, the efficiency difference and a meaningful figure of power consumption to thrust ratio. Throttle position is irrelevant, due to the dynamism of other variables and dubious calibration. You can certainly have multiple current points, perhaps some props suffer performance falloff at higher inputs, but again, across the chart, the only variable is the recorded result. The energy efficiency of motors would be done the same way, only ONE input variable, the motor. Fixed voltage, dial to a fixed amount of thrust. The winner is the motor that gives you that thrust at the lowest current. Or throttle to identical current and measure thrust. You must have controlled variables for these tests to be meaningful. - - - - - - There are other considerations of course, but that has to do with class of service. In the above Its assumed the props all have the same pitch. A static test cannot be used to compare a tractor with a racer. So the result is going to relate to efficiency in a hover. A high pitch prop will rate poor against a tractor in a static test. But your not going to do 100+ mph with a high hover efficiency low pitch tractor prop. Larger heavier props have more rpm acceleration power losses even though they are more efficient in a static hover. (wind buffeting corrections, or any other cause of motor rpm change eat battery) Racer props, higher pitch faster props,, i guess you either use a wind tunnel, a speed gun, on-board gps, because the static test can show how much that added speed capability has cost your hover efficiency, but it cant show the sustained thrust at air speeds above where the tractor has maxed out. The contest there i guess is between minutes per amp-hour vs smiles per amp-hour. So even more blasted variables, But at least you can measure . . . . grams of thrust per amp, or amps per gram of thrust, or watts per gram of thrust, across those props and current points, for that class of service. Some day, someone is going to mount a stiff sprung shunt fed analog meter in front of their FPV camera . . Amps in Hover you can get without FPV,,, but to get Amps at 40 mph . . . . so then swap around some props . . . now that would be some great data eh ? Record amps for hover, bench test one of the props and motor at 1/4 Current of that measured for all 4. Measure the thrust. Bench select a motor and prop combo that delivers that thrust at the lowest current. Mount those on drone . . . enjoy increased flight time. With the right tractors, you can lift more battery, gain more benefit from the battery, but you might pay for it in decreased rates and speed. Cheers!
And all of these, everywhere by everybody, are done wrong. Many uncontrolled variables, where there must only be ONE, (the prop), if the test is to be meaningful. The voltage could be fixed, from a regulated supply if need be. Motor efficiency is affected by volt current ratio, and can corrupt the result. You could do it with a watt-meter, and a fixed input in watts, But the voltage drop must not increase with battery depletion. And must be identical across all items in the test. Throttled to identical current leaving the only variable the prop. The highest thrust for an identical current is the winner. You could throttle to a fixed amount of thrust, The prop that gives that thrust at the lowest current/watt is the winner. By measuring for only a single moving variable, you have an understandable and accurate measure of what your looking for, the efficiency difference and a meaningful figure of power consumption to thrust ratio. Throttle position is irrelevant, due to the dynamism of other variables and dubious calibration. You can certainly have multiple current points, perhaps some props suffer performance falloff at higher inputs, but again, across the chart, the only variable is the recorded result. The energy efficiency of motors would be done the same way, only ONE input variable, the motor. Fixed voltage, dial to a fixed amount of thrust. The winner is the motor that gives you that thrust at the lowest current. Or throttle to identical current and measure thrust. You must have controlled variables for these tests to be meaningful. - - - - - - There are other considerations of course, but that has to do with class of service. In the above Its assumed the props all have the same pitch. A static test cannot be used to compare a tractor with a racer. So the result is going to relate to efficiency in a hover. A high pitch prop will rate poor against a tractor in a static test. But your not going to do 100+ mph with a high hover efficiency low pitch tractor prop. Larger heavier props have more rpm acceleration power losses even though they are more efficient in a static hover. (wind buffeting corrections, or any other cause of motor rpm change eat battery) Racer props, higher pitch faster props,, i guess you either use a wind tunnel, a speed gun, on-board gps, because the static test can show how much that added speed capability has cost your hover efficiency, but it cant show the sustained thrust at air speeds above where the tractor has maxed out. The contest there i guess is between minutes per amp-hour vs smiles per amp-hour. So even more blasted variables, But at least you can measure . . . . grams of thrust per amp, or amps per gram of thrust, or watts per gram of thrust, across those props and current points, for that class of service. Some day, someone is going to mount a stiff sprung shunt fed analog meter in front of their FPV camera . . Amps in Hover you can get without FPV,,, but to get Amps at 40 mph . . . . . so then swap around some props . . . now that would be some great data eh ? Record amps for hover, bench test one of the props and motor at 1/4 Current of that measured for all 4. Measure the thrust. Bench select a motor and prop combo that delivers that thrust at the lowest current. Mount those on drone . . . enjoy increased flight time. With the right tractors, you can lift more battery, gain more benefit from the battery, but you might pay for it in decreased rates and speed. Cheers!
Thanks for this video. I have the 21BHE XLS series.
Great idea! I have a couple of questions, first who makes the Jump Box and exactly how do you connect it to the winch? I can't tell from the video. Thanks for your help. I'd like to try some variation of this.
For the jumper box its branded as a Schumacher. For daily use I would suggest a group24 deep cycle battery. The jumper box is convenient for my frequency of use. I mounted the power cables to a plastic backer, the backer was attached to the winch base plate. The cables on the plastic backer were held in place by two long bolts, these bolts are what the jumper box cables attached to power the winch.
Glad I found this video! Looked all over for that valve to dewinterize my 17MKE. Manual isn`t straightford as to where it is located. Thank You!
Your welcome, glad I could help.
Dang was kind of hoping you had a de-winterizing video also. About to do our 2400bh for the first time.
Thankyou!
When viewing you stated that your front left (looking from tail)was servo one in the ikon set it it said to set right front to one and follow around with elevator being 2 and so on. Will this make a difference in the flying? i have never set mine up that way.
Hey I was able to get 18-19mins hover time on a similar setup :- F450 frame (bottom plate and arms) 3d printed canopy and legs 920kv B2212 motors 9443 dji propellers plastic 4s 10a 15c Turnigy graphene battery Apm 2.8 kit Standard 2 axis gimbal and gopro Take off weight 2.2kg
*This is my first metal detector.>>>**t.co/Ju0Vd5aoTv** I know this is not an extremely high quality detector, but for the price I am very happy with it.?*
I have a Canyon gmc 4cly do you guys think I can pull a 3000 lbs camper
Each truck has its unique payload and towing capacities usually found in the owners manual and or as a sticker on the drivers door area. My Nissan frontier could tow this trailer but it was struggling when climbing hills.
Well you probably got your answer already. But in short. No. As he said, loaded this is 3500 lbs. That's the rating max of your truck. Once you add cargo of the truck your going to be over. Optimally, you want to be considerably under that max limit for such a tiny motor. I would say find something around 2300 lbs dry weight. Look at some of the smaller TAB tear drop trailers. That's about all your going to be able to tow safely.
great vid thanks
Where did you get the channels that you're using to hold the winch plate?
Those are factory from Nissan. Every frontier comes with them installed.
Where did you plug in the cables for power? Does it reach the battery somehow?
Used a portable battery box.
How did you get that bolted on there? How did you push the bolts through? From underneath somehow?
The washer I cut a flat on two sides to allow it to slide over the bolt then slide the washer into the track and rotate the washer until its seated. I know longer have the truck but it works like the Nissan track lock.
an interesting way of testing or a detector is a bad feature.
how bad does the deck get hung up on the edge of the tailgate where the ramps hang off? do you just power through it or have to give the back of the tractor a lift to clear?
machinesnmetal it's tractor dependent, there is only about 1/4" space with the Husqvarna so it's close. I have wood spacers that I can use to change the ramp angles by lifting that ramp off the ground.
I find the john deeres seem to get hung up less than everything else. The zero turns are the most hassle because they are usually longer and the castor wheels tend to fight the ramps... I mounted my winch up a bit higher, at the top of the box cap
Where is this? The name of the campground?
WinterLover It's located in Rochester Massachusetts
This is a seriously late post :) Good clip bro, looks like you got the settings nailed! Hope to see you in the air again, unless you've moved on. liked and subbed.
DJI makes an incredible RTF craft! liked and subbed!
That is one incredible inset.
How to get Wattage peak data and Amps peak data on your thrust test?
Maria hutabarat data is read from the skyrc 7 in 1 multimeter. The weight scale provides the thrust data.
No audio at all? No commentary on what we are seeing? As such, not very useful.
Cool system! This inspired me to create something similar, but without modifications to the pickup bed, and using a manual hand winch: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fZmoqcuqeJWqcps.html