Hey Gerhard, may I feature your most recent video "G63 Accident" on my channel? Credited on screen & link in description. Any updates what happened afterwards?
@RRBDDrivingSchool3 ай бұрын
where did it happen?
@RRBDDrivingSchool3 ай бұрын
Hi Gerhard Schiller, can I use this video "G63 Accident" in my compilation of dashcam clips?with credit (name on screen).Any comment?update?
@vomitor903 ай бұрын
Hi, where did you bought that nozzle cleaner?
@matasvalentinavicius12884 ай бұрын
Well explained, your voice is well suited for the videos
@gerhard59114 ай бұрын
Thx, been many years ago. I would do it different now I guess. Less of the hammering lol
@gerhard59117 ай бұрын
How did you built your enclosure? Door? Just wondering. The front door with glass on mine opens up like a lift gate with gas struts. You saw the slide up door. Just an air piston and cables. And the side with the equipment can opens like a lift gate by inwards. If you’d like I can take pics with more details.
@brad33787 ай бұрын
I saw one of your comments on the Ramsey Laser Press Brake channel (Video title: I imported a Fiber Laser Cutter From China) and I am glad I clicked on your name! Your system looks phenomenal and includes all of the same safety features that I would have designed into my own rig! I especially like your laser safety window which must have cost you $thousands. Thanks for sharing!
@gerhard59117 ай бұрын
Thanks for your compliments. Works pretty well. The windows did cost about $ 1,500 in materials in part because I made sure its the real thing with correct rating. When I started shopping for that I had some sticker shock.
@brad33787 ай бұрын
@@gerhard5911 Do you have any tips for safely verifying your safety glass is for the correct light spectrum? Will scratches make in unsafe? I am paranoid about laser safety.. When I build my system I am considering skipping the glass and using solid material with a few security cameras inside with a display on the outside
@gerhard59117 ай бұрын
Hi, also added 4 security cameras in addition to the window and added a large monitor. I am also paranoid about laser safety (eyesight). I can’t fathom all the open machines. May be in a one person shop. We have too many people moving through shop. And even then I looked by mistake without glasses. So here is what I did about the glass: 1. I ruled out any whatever acrylic plexi not specifically labeled for laser 2. I searched for wave length spectrum 900 to 1200 or similarand made sure it’s a level 8 density. 3. If it was too cheap I skipped. 4.checked sellers info feedback ect I can’t scientifically test but here is what I did. I tried to cut it with the laser. Expected it didn’t work no matter what I through at it. I got minor scoring. Like 0.2mm deep. And the sheet metal below was completely untouched. So I figured no laser energy passing through. Did the same with the blue acrylic panels. I also sealed off gaps in the enclosure so there is no straight path anywhere. Some of the open guy machines may be laughing. Right now there is so little real world data about accidents so I decided to play it safe. Never mind I have a professional shop and have an obligation (OSHA, insurance ect.) to make best efforts to provide safety from reasonably assumed dangers. With all the safety warnings everywhere there is. I way I could argue an open machine was reasonably safe standard if and accident would happen. It may be considered gross negligible (criminal) and I am not risking my eyesight either.
@gerhard59117 ай бұрын
And no, scratches don’t make it unsafe as it’s not a coating but solid dense to light
@brad33787 ай бұрын
@@gerhard5911 Thank you for such a great response! I am going to print this out to keep in my project build-binder.
@vxnova19 ай бұрын
Punch out the wheel studs, you can use a longer bolt with a nut to pry out the bearing, On my case it split the bearing in 2 which allowed me to lay it on top of a couple of 4x4 boards and hammer out the bearing. It would be more stable than holding onto the assembly and beating on it, In my case the bearing was really seized and it took a considerable amount of beating to remove, Good video,
@ToxicTom19679 ай бұрын
very cool
@johncole30102 жыл бұрын
You remind me of Donald Trump working on his constituents viewpoint. Great job
@slanejohnston2 жыл бұрын
Very thorough, thank you, gotta do my gals "pretty lil" Prius. Keep her happy, and my wallet not so slim. Times is a gitting 'ruff out there..... Thanx guy..... You from up Jersey way?
@stacydornan97652 жыл бұрын
Need a puller,airhammer and abfh
@thebush-craftingcousins28493 жыл бұрын
I don’t think it should’ve been that easy to get the axle nut off
@spelunkerd3 жыл бұрын
Weekend warriers like us need to earn our tools. You certainly earned a few more tools with this job, good work! I'd start with a good set of jack stands, it's a scotty kilmer job with only a jack.
@Valient64 жыл бұрын
Machine that hub assembly seat face 3 thousandths over!
@Valient64 жыл бұрын
Smash that cast aluminum!
@sjoboo4 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot! It made me decide to do this myself in stead of taking it to a shop.
@AllThingsBoost4 жыл бұрын
Just did mine, I had to resort to a 6 ton press, but it is all corroded like that because that's what aluminum does when it contacts steel.
@irunxboxlive9164 жыл бұрын
wheel bearing ez, dont take the hub off like he did, take the 2 thick bolts out and hammer out the axle then unbolt and hammer the bearing out, its E Z, dont take off the bottom castle nut or steering thing
@nordicpride97084 жыл бұрын
For anyone doing this be sure to check for sticky front brake pads and assure your tires aren’t contributing to noise. I did mine recently and it helped but the other influencing factor was cupped tires due to worn struts.
@descolero15 жыл бұрын
@2:29 "wow thats very loose, just how like it!" lmao
@michael47lamb5 жыл бұрын
Decent job! Very inspiring. However, everyone ! Please be sure to torque the bolts on the new hub and use jack stands so you dont have a nasty accident while beating on things.
@gerhard59115 жыл бұрын
Thanks for pointing out the jack stands and the torque. Both are very important details.
@TDCornwell5 жыл бұрын
Great video! Very useful for me & my adventure replacing the wheel bearing on my '09 Prius. A couple pf things that this video does not cover: 1. The shield around the speed sensor in the back of the bearing. I removed this with only a little trouble by first removing the entire yolk/knuckle assembly, then gripping the shield with a pair of Vice-Grips and whacking on the yolk while holding the Vice-Grips. 2. I found this bearing was very, very hard to remove. My Prius grew up in Upstate NY State where there are awful road conditions for a few months a year. Salt, sand, snow, cold temperatures, etc. This puppy was STUCK, and hammering on it was pretty useless. Ultimately, I took the entire yoke/knuckle off & was able to put the assembly in my vice, pointing down. Being careful, the jaws of my vice would fit just between the bearing assembly and the knuckle. I didn't clamp down with the vice, just used it to hold the yolk, while beating on the bearing. I put the four bolts in most of the way then, using an impact socket to buffer the hammer blows, I whacked the heck out of the socket, one at a time on each bolt. This ultimately did the trick. This bearing was far and away, the most stuck thing I have ever liberated. It was glued (corroded) in the yolk like nothing I have encountered. I practically soaked the thing in penetrating oil ahead of time and, after I got it apart, I could tell that the penetrating oil didn't touch the corrosion. It was super-stuck. I tried heat and pressure, using a propane torch and fitting a small hydraulic jack between the hub bolts and the frame. These may have loosened the bearing assembly, but I'm not sure. 3. One thing I learned from this was to use some non-hardening sealant, and anti-seize compound to reassemble this puppy. I think that this was the fifth front-end wheel bearing I have replaced on my '09 Prius (220K miles) and I hope the next time is easier.
@coryhartford10695 жыл бұрын
Getting that bearing out is a SOB isn't it? Good work sticking with it. Thanks for sharing your experience.
@nordicpride97084 жыл бұрын
Usually only if the car spent any time in the rust belt. You do get some corrosion being that they are two dissimilar metals (aluminum knuckle/steel hub). But nothing a mini sledge can’t persuade.
@gerhard59114 жыл бұрын
@@nordicpride9708 Chicago area car...that definitely qualifies for rust with all the salt on the roads.
@tdok5 жыл бұрын
At 38:30 you showed the ring. What is that ring for?
@regeorge1795 жыл бұрын
Thank you gothard Schiller for this video it will help me to do my own car when future wheel bearings needs replacement.most appreciated.
@midnightsunturbo5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for uploading the video. This will help me out when I need to replace mine.
@IgorKadulenkov5 жыл бұрын
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
@JL-ut6lo5 жыл бұрын
Good job. A suggestion next time, instead of whacking the wheel bearing with a sledge hammer, why not leave the cap bolts loosely in (unthreaded say about 1/4 inch) and then strike at the bolt heads with a drift punch. By alternating from one side to the other, you can then "walk" the bearing assembly out of the spindle hub assembly. You might also be able to do this while the spindle is still attached to the strut. This way you don't have to do an wheel alignment at the end. Cheers!
@gerhard59115 жыл бұрын
That's is a great suggestions. Thanks. I should finally get myself a press. Would make it much easier.
@TDCornwell5 жыл бұрын
This method (sort of) worked for me. Nothing else did. I took the entire yoke /"knuckle" off & was able to put the assembly in my vice, pointing down. Being careful, the jaws of my vice would fit just between the bearing assembly and the knuckle. I didn't clamp down with the vice, just used it to hold the yolk, while beating on the bearing. I put the four bolts in most of the way then, using an impact socket to buffer the hammer blows, I whacked the heck out of the socket, one at a time on each bolt. This ultimately did the trick. This bearing was far and away, the most stuck thing I have ever liberated. It was glued (corroded) in the yolk like nothing I have encountered. I practically soaked the thing in penetrating oil ahead of time and, after I got it apart, I could tell that the penetrating oil didn't touch the corrosion. It was super-stuck. I tried heat and pressure, using a propane torch and fitting a small hydraulic jack between the hub bolts and the frame. These may have loosened the bearing assembly, but I'm not sure. One thing I learned from this was to use some non-hardening sealant, and anti-seize compound to reassemble this puppy. I think that this was the fifth front-end wheel bearing I have replaced on my '09 Prius (220K miles) and I hope the next time is easier.
@DrEarbuds6 жыл бұрын
Does it matter which brand bearing you buy
@gerhard59115 жыл бұрын
depends on how long you want to keep the car running well. If its an older car. no
@DrEarbuds5 жыл бұрын
@@gerhard5911 my Chinese mechanic use a jackhammer to loosen it up
@RAMRA106 жыл бұрын
Did you ever get a metallic taste in your mouth after doing this job? Because I did. I used a simple dust mask. Should of used a better mask for the job.
@LostinCynicism6 жыл бұрын
Stroke probably
@gerhard59115 жыл бұрын
no, I didnt
@sungn45126 жыл бұрын
Good job in diagnosing & tackling problems with front wheels; some observations: - you are a MONSTER & a force to recon with the mini sledge hammer!!! whack... whack... ; ) - dust shields mangled and all - i normally liberally spray brake clean lubricant also helps in cleaning metal parts. - normally liberally Spray lubricant to help loosen metal parts to unscrew - are you ready to upgrade to a work bench & vice assembly? - I noticed that you didn't use a jack stand to suspend your car; its only a problem when there IS a problem. - Loose front wheel causes can be of various causes: - BEARING HUB. this is definitely the MAIN cause of your road noise, speed, pull. - LOOSE AXLE NUT, you noticed that loose nut immediately off the bat when you unscrewed it off the axle. It normally is ~170lbs torque, you took it off with about 30lbs of effort. I assess that you did some work on that axle as of recent that caused it to relax its tension. Probably need lock tight the nut back to seat in. - BALL JOINT. this also may cause your wheel to click - nice looking Prius - thanks for sharing your project
@gerhard59116 жыл бұрын
Yes, you are correct. Just know, I did spray the day before. And no, didn't want to come out. I have a press at my shop which I normally would have used. But the monster in me just wanted to get the job done. The axle nut did come off at less the 170. Great observation. If I remember right I may have loosened them before filming. Ball joints checked out. If you would have heard the extremely loud grinding noise you would have been shocked. I even thought there was something wrong with the drive train after replacing the loose left side and the noise was still present. After the repair was done I knew for certain in THIS case it had been the wheel bearings. But when I started I was about only 80% sure. Thanks for the comments. I am aware that there are some more refined and elegant ways to do this job, no doubt. And thanks for reminding me for not becoming sloppy on the blocks. After all I had the jackstands right there.
Пікірлер
Hey Gerhard, may I feature your most recent video "G63 Accident" on my channel? Credited on screen & link in description. Any updates what happened afterwards?
where did it happen?
Hi Gerhard Schiller, can I use this video "G63 Accident" in my compilation of dashcam clips?with credit (name on screen).Any comment?update?
Hi, where did you bought that nozzle cleaner?
Well explained, your voice is well suited for the videos
Thx, been many years ago. I would do it different now I guess. Less of the hammering lol
How did you built your enclosure? Door? Just wondering. The front door with glass on mine opens up like a lift gate with gas struts. You saw the slide up door. Just an air piston and cables. And the side with the equipment can opens like a lift gate by inwards. If you’d like I can take pics with more details.
I saw one of your comments on the Ramsey Laser Press Brake channel (Video title: I imported a Fiber Laser Cutter From China) and I am glad I clicked on your name! Your system looks phenomenal and includes all of the same safety features that I would have designed into my own rig! I especially like your laser safety window which must have cost you $thousands. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for your compliments. Works pretty well. The windows did cost about $ 1,500 in materials in part because I made sure its the real thing with correct rating. When I started shopping for that I had some sticker shock.
@@gerhard5911 Do you have any tips for safely verifying your safety glass is for the correct light spectrum? Will scratches make in unsafe? I am paranoid about laser safety.. When I build my system I am considering skipping the glass and using solid material with a few security cameras inside with a display on the outside
Hi, also added 4 security cameras in addition to the window and added a large monitor. I am also paranoid about laser safety (eyesight). I can’t fathom all the open machines. May be in a one person shop. We have too many people moving through shop. And even then I looked by mistake without glasses. So here is what I did about the glass: 1. I ruled out any whatever acrylic plexi not specifically labeled for laser 2. I searched for wave length spectrum 900 to 1200 or similarand made sure it’s a level 8 density. 3. If it was too cheap I skipped. 4.checked sellers info feedback ect I can’t scientifically test but here is what I did. I tried to cut it with the laser. Expected it didn’t work no matter what I through at it. I got minor scoring. Like 0.2mm deep. And the sheet metal below was completely untouched. So I figured no laser energy passing through. Did the same with the blue acrylic panels. I also sealed off gaps in the enclosure so there is no straight path anywhere. Some of the open guy machines may be laughing. Right now there is so little real world data about accidents so I decided to play it safe. Never mind I have a professional shop and have an obligation (OSHA, insurance ect.) to make best efforts to provide safety from reasonably assumed dangers. With all the safety warnings everywhere there is. I way I could argue an open machine was reasonably safe standard if and accident would happen. It may be considered gross negligible (criminal) and I am not risking my eyesight either.
And no, scratches don’t make it unsafe as it’s not a coating but solid dense to light
@@gerhard5911 Thank you for such a great response! I am going to print this out to keep in my project build-binder.
Punch out the wheel studs, you can use a longer bolt with a nut to pry out the bearing, On my case it split the bearing in 2 which allowed me to lay it on top of a couple of 4x4 boards and hammer out the bearing. It would be more stable than holding onto the assembly and beating on it, In my case the bearing was really seized and it took a considerable amount of beating to remove, Good video,
very cool
You remind me of Donald Trump working on his constituents viewpoint. Great job
Very thorough, thank you, gotta do my gals "pretty lil" Prius. Keep her happy, and my wallet not so slim. Times is a gitting 'ruff out there..... Thanx guy..... You from up Jersey way?
Need a puller,airhammer and abfh
I don’t think it should’ve been that easy to get the axle nut off
Weekend warriers like us need to earn our tools. You certainly earned a few more tools with this job, good work! I'd start with a good set of jack stands, it's a scotty kilmer job with only a jack.
Machine that hub assembly seat face 3 thousandths over!
Smash that cast aluminum!
Thanks a lot! It made me decide to do this myself in stead of taking it to a shop.
Just did mine, I had to resort to a 6 ton press, but it is all corroded like that because that's what aluminum does when it contacts steel.
wheel bearing ez, dont take the hub off like he did, take the 2 thick bolts out and hammer out the axle then unbolt and hammer the bearing out, its E Z, dont take off the bottom castle nut or steering thing
For anyone doing this be sure to check for sticky front brake pads and assure your tires aren’t contributing to noise. I did mine recently and it helped but the other influencing factor was cupped tires due to worn struts.
@2:29 "wow thats very loose, just how like it!" lmao
Decent job! Very inspiring. However, everyone ! Please be sure to torque the bolts on the new hub and use jack stands so you dont have a nasty accident while beating on things.
Thanks for pointing out the jack stands and the torque. Both are very important details.
Great video! Very useful for me & my adventure replacing the wheel bearing on my '09 Prius. A couple pf things that this video does not cover: 1. The shield around the speed sensor in the back of the bearing. I removed this with only a little trouble by first removing the entire yolk/knuckle assembly, then gripping the shield with a pair of Vice-Grips and whacking on the yolk while holding the Vice-Grips. 2. I found this bearing was very, very hard to remove. My Prius grew up in Upstate NY State where there are awful road conditions for a few months a year. Salt, sand, snow, cold temperatures, etc. This puppy was STUCK, and hammering on it was pretty useless. Ultimately, I took the entire yoke/knuckle off & was able to put the assembly in my vice, pointing down. Being careful, the jaws of my vice would fit just between the bearing assembly and the knuckle. I didn't clamp down with the vice, just used it to hold the yolk, while beating on the bearing. I put the four bolts in most of the way then, using an impact socket to buffer the hammer blows, I whacked the heck out of the socket, one at a time on each bolt. This ultimately did the trick. This bearing was far and away, the most stuck thing I have ever liberated. It was glued (corroded) in the yolk like nothing I have encountered. I practically soaked the thing in penetrating oil ahead of time and, after I got it apart, I could tell that the penetrating oil didn't touch the corrosion. It was super-stuck. I tried heat and pressure, using a propane torch and fitting a small hydraulic jack between the hub bolts and the frame. These may have loosened the bearing assembly, but I'm not sure. 3. One thing I learned from this was to use some non-hardening sealant, and anti-seize compound to reassemble this puppy. I think that this was the fifth front-end wheel bearing I have replaced on my '09 Prius (220K miles) and I hope the next time is easier.
Getting that bearing out is a SOB isn't it? Good work sticking with it. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Usually only if the car spent any time in the rust belt. You do get some corrosion being that they are two dissimilar metals (aluminum knuckle/steel hub). But nothing a mini sledge can’t persuade.
@@nordicpride9708 Chicago area car...that definitely qualifies for rust with all the salt on the roads.
At 38:30 you showed the ring. What is that ring for?
Thank you gothard Schiller for this video it will help me to do my own car when future wheel bearings needs replacement.most appreciated.
Thank you for uploading the video. This will help me out when I need to replace mine.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Good job. A suggestion next time, instead of whacking the wheel bearing with a sledge hammer, why not leave the cap bolts loosely in (unthreaded say about 1/4 inch) and then strike at the bolt heads with a drift punch. By alternating from one side to the other, you can then "walk" the bearing assembly out of the spindle hub assembly. You might also be able to do this while the spindle is still attached to the strut. This way you don't have to do an wheel alignment at the end. Cheers!
That's is a great suggestions. Thanks. I should finally get myself a press. Would make it much easier.
This method (sort of) worked for me. Nothing else did. I took the entire yoke /"knuckle" off & was able to put the assembly in my vice, pointing down. Being careful, the jaws of my vice would fit just between the bearing assembly and the knuckle. I didn't clamp down with the vice, just used it to hold the yolk, while beating on the bearing. I put the four bolts in most of the way then, using an impact socket to buffer the hammer blows, I whacked the heck out of the socket, one at a time on each bolt. This ultimately did the trick. This bearing was far and away, the most stuck thing I have ever liberated. It was glued (corroded) in the yolk like nothing I have encountered. I practically soaked the thing in penetrating oil ahead of time and, after I got it apart, I could tell that the penetrating oil didn't touch the corrosion. It was super-stuck. I tried heat and pressure, using a propane torch and fitting a small hydraulic jack between the hub bolts and the frame. These may have loosened the bearing assembly, but I'm not sure. One thing I learned from this was to use some non-hardening sealant, and anti-seize compound to reassemble this puppy. I think that this was the fifth front-end wheel bearing I have replaced on my '09 Prius (220K miles) and I hope the next time is easier.
Does it matter which brand bearing you buy
depends on how long you want to keep the car running well. If its an older car. no
@@gerhard5911 my Chinese mechanic use a jackhammer to loosen it up
Did you ever get a metallic taste in your mouth after doing this job? Because I did. I used a simple dust mask. Should of used a better mask for the job.
Stroke probably
no, I didnt
Good job in diagnosing & tackling problems with front wheels; some observations: - you are a MONSTER & a force to recon with the mini sledge hammer!!! whack... whack... ; ) - dust shields mangled and all - i normally liberally spray brake clean lubricant also helps in cleaning metal parts. - normally liberally Spray lubricant to help loosen metal parts to unscrew - are you ready to upgrade to a work bench & vice assembly? - I noticed that you didn't use a jack stand to suspend your car; its only a problem when there IS a problem. - Loose front wheel causes can be of various causes: - BEARING HUB. this is definitely the MAIN cause of your road noise, speed, pull. - LOOSE AXLE NUT, you noticed that loose nut immediately off the bat when you unscrewed it off the axle. It normally is ~170lbs torque, you took it off with about 30lbs of effort. I assess that you did some work on that axle as of recent that caused it to relax its tension. Probably need lock tight the nut back to seat in. - BALL JOINT. this also may cause your wheel to click - nice looking Prius - thanks for sharing your project
Yes, you are correct. Just know, I did spray the day before. And no, didn't want to come out. I have a press at my shop which I normally would have used. But the monster in me just wanted to get the job done. The axle nut did come off at less the 170. Great observation. If I remember right I may have loosened them before filming. Ball joints checked out. If you would have heard the extremely loud grinding noise you would have been shocked. I even thought there was something wrong with the drive train after replacing the loose left side and the noise was still present. After the repair was done I knew for certain in THIS case it had been the wheel bearings. But when I started I was about only 80% sure. Thanks for the comments. I am aware that there are some more refined and elegant ways to do this job, no doubt. And thanks for reminding me for not becoming sloppy on the blocks. After all I had the jackstands right there.