Founded in 1917 by Felice Sacchi near Milan, Italy, SILCA earned a reputation as an innovator by being the first to introduce gauges on bicycle pumps. It also led the market with the creation of the first genuine high-pressure frame pump and pioneered the use of lightweight plastic materials following WWII. SILCA further distinguished itself as the pioneer in introducing CO2 for roadside tire inflation. Now based in Indianapolis, IN, USA, SILCA continues its legacy of producing iconic products. The company prides itself on utilizing the finest materials and craftsmanship, while also embracing modern engineering and manufacturing techniques to innovate and push the boundaries of technology to elevate the entire cycling experience and deepen the passion for the sport of cycling.
Пікірлер
0:29 Along the same lines, I had an instructor in bike mechanics school tell me that we ‘tune’ a musical instrument and ‘adjust’ gears.
At 1:54 I guess you meant to say elastic region, not plastic? To play devil's advocate. I think it's fine to keep saying "chain stretch". Chain as a whole system stretches - distance between its two ends increases, which perfectly fits "stretch" definition. Saying "chain link stretch" would be incorrect (as stated in the video, pin to pin distance practically remains unchanged). Some people have wrong understanding where the stretching comes from as explained in the video.
You mention your hot waxed chain has 2500 miles with little wear. How often did you wax/clean your chain during that time.
How do I get SuperSecret out of my carpet?
Chain aging.
Chain deformation is what I would say as it deforms from it's "normal" factory state.
Chain stwetch
elongation describes it best!
Great news! Love your products and would really like to attent some clinics or so when you are in Europe or Netherlands!
Thanks Josh - but how do your chain stripper and strip chip products perform with the super-stubborn factory grease on KMC chains? I have found them to be still sticky after an hour of treatment with things like white spirit, alcohol, etc, and as I understand it Adam at ZFC does not recommend KMC chains for waxing due to the difficulty of removing the factory grease.
Nice video, and, as others mentioned, a tad more concise than Adam :). What I fail to understand however is the rolling mechanism. Can there be rolling when you have a tight interface, as you have in a new chain? I guess for rolling to occur, you need enough space to lift the posterior part of the rolling item, otherwise it will slide, or am I under a misconception?
hi josh. great video again.. i would like to see a "contaminated" disk brake rotor. i don t believe its not cleanable. but everyone sais its toast.. please show the contaminated vs new vs cleaned ;) thank you :)
Great content and channel. It's one of my favorite KZread indulgences these days. I'd be interested to see how both bar flare and hood angle affect aerodynamics, control and comfort. The three are related anyway, right? Aerodynamics are moot if you're laying on the ground because you've crashed. Also, discomfort limits speed when it affects power, endurance, and aero form.
This is a fantastic video, great info. I knew about the tires, but I've had all kinds of issues with rim tape and clogged valves. I've given up on tubeless, I personally don't find it worth the hassle. I bet if you followed all these tips, it could work well, but I'm not going there anytime soon!
Crazy....... WAX IS THE NEXT THING..... SILCA NEEDS TO PRODUCE WORLDWIDE GOOD PRICED CHAIN LINKS....This is the aquiles foot of chain waxing.. Paying 10$ for each time you open the chain link is insanity. espceially if you have multiple bikes and etc.... Locally my chains go for 200$ Chain (not even being high end) and 10$ chainlink (never in stock) . In the USA its like 3$ alink nd 100$ for that chain., SRAM delaers for south america are clowns. I think if any brand does things right or shimano does something right. Sram will be forced to back off with their clownery and horsing around with prices of their exclusive dealers..
Add to this.. cable “stretch.” From my understanding cables don’t stretch, housing compresses.
I apply up close to the cassette and then I apply right by the chain ring too right afterwards. It really seems to work good that way.
can i use this pn a brand new bike that has done only 2km, chain and cassette seems mint
if a sprocket is a "cog", then its called "chain stretch"
Chain wear
It loosens
I know how to test for chain wear, how can you tell if your cassette is worn and needs to be replaced?
This his hard to watch. Your product is great, but I guess the presentation should be way shorter and to the point.
Are you speaking in Farenheit or in Celcius?
Stretch from erosion = "strosion"?
Chain stretch bro that’s what it is
It's chain elongation.
Are all Wipperman Connex links stainless steel?
£140 in the uk you can keep it at that price its not worth no more than £40
I think you should call it chain stretch and ignore the uneducated masses that don't understand what that involves.
Simply excellent video. Thank you. Been waxing my chains for many years and constantly suggesting to folk,that keeping a clean chain will increase its life.
I like the dramatic Chain Death personally :)
The chain is dead, long live the chain!
1:50 not plastic but elastic (if it returns to its original length)
I have to admit, I was hovering over the screen to swipe away, until I saw the inner workings of the chain explanation.
Chain wear elongation.
Chain Exhaustion. It's tired and needs to rest... forever.
Chain elongation...
Your explanation about why round additive particles don't work, in a span of 30 seconds, does what Adam couldn't explain over the course of 40 minutes...
Brilliant
On my comuter bike I have a simple chain for 7 gears only. On mixed roads with dirt roads I ride almost only if its dry. They wear out quick. Even so I clean and relube them about every 100km they are at .75 after only 600km. The chains are quite cheap about 6-8€ (almost the same in $) but I dont like it. It doesnt seem to be very sustainable if other chains last 20000km. But even 2200 isnt bad compared to my chains.
My first experience with wax chain lube was a total fail. In just year my chain was stretched beyond my measuring tool's range. Thanks to your channel, now I know why. Wax lube is useless on a factory oiled chain. A few days ago I installed your pre-waxed chain. Wow. My drivetrain has never been this quiet. I'm a true believer.
My first experience with wax chain lube was a total fail. I used it religiously, but in just year my chain was stretched beyond my measuring tool's range. Thanks to your channel, now I know why. Wax lube is useless on a factory oiled chain. A few days ago I installed your pre-waxed chain. My drivetrain has never been this quiet. I'm a true believer.
Slotting... As this is what is occurring!
The chain as a whole stretches because links in the chain wear out.
I see nothing wrong with the term "chain stretch". The word "stretch" is not limited a lengthening under load. It more generally means to extend in length, which is exactly what happens with chain wear. The cause is chain wear the result is chain stretch. I measure the amount of wear by measuring the chain stretch. There are certainly truly misleading terms in cycling. How about "clipless" pedals.
The rubber band elongated. Oh, yeah, the rubber band stretched. Don’t try to change common English usage. From Miriam Webster 2 : to become extended without breaking
I've come across the term chain growth in the industrial context?
After applying and letting dry for 24hrs, should you wipe the excess waxxy goop off the chain before taking your ride?
Yes, we recommend wiping excess off right after you apply it, it will be easier to remove when wet!
@@SILCAVelo So clean, drip apply, backpedal a few times, clean off excess completely, let sit for 24 hrs, ride?
Chain consumed
Wear!