Пікірлер

• 
  @louismaynard88120 сағат бұрын

  This model sucks I’m on step 2 and already quit. Can you even build this shit without super glue?

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican19 сағат бұрын

  @@louismaynard881 ive managed to get it decaled without touching super glue yet but the fit is horrible everywhere and Im expecting to need a lot of it for the gear

• 
  @user-wd2ig9uz7k3 күн бұрын

  Stupendo!!!!

• 
  @lesvenus37885 күн бұрын

  Great build. I’ve just subscribed too!

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican5 күн бұрын

  @@lesvenus3788 thank you and welcome!

• 
  @koscmotorsports-mattkosc71625 күн бұрын

  Very nice!

• 
  @dl56726 күн бұрын

  finally a P-51 on the good guys side...

• 
  @BennyCFD7 күн бұрын

  Very nice build..............................P-51s do not have wood floors. Also they have aluminum props with the section near the hub was black do to a high altitude boot to help with ram air in to the air intake. Over all very Wag-a-Licious.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican7 күн бұрын

  I believe you are incorrect. Allison P51s did not have a wood floor- the cockpits with curved floors are metal. P-51D (flat floor) were wooden with an antiskid coating. Glad to hear you enjoyed it otherwise.

• 
  @BennyCFD7 күн бұрын

  @@TheWaggishAmerican As far as the model goes you did a great job. Well Allison never manufactured the P-51 or any other WW II aircraft it was North American, And two I've actually been in the cockpit of a P-51D and they weren't wood.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican5 күн бұрын

  ​@@BennyCFDallison refers to models with an allison engine, which the early models had. Restored and especially modernized / flight worthy examples are not great references. Google P51 cockpit wood floor and youll see a lot of discussion around this topic.

• 
  @juanjosezapatagarcia1068 күн бұрын

  Hola, muy buen trabajo!!! Que referencia de Academy es????

• 
  @robbielloyd57679 күн бұрын

  Very interesting idea. Great build as always

• 
  @koscmotorsports-mattkosc716212 күн бұрын

  Nice!

• 
  @rebelsatcloudnine12 күн бұрын

  The perfect way to start the day with a new P-51 video :) I really like your painting process with this project, it was really fun to see. I've built 2 of these and I know exactly what you mean with the control stick and the landing gear. I hope that Airfix is making this on now with their new grey styrene. It doesn't fuse together quite the same as the blue grey, but it's a lot stronger.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican12 күн бұрын

  Thats a great point. The feagile details have been done in kits like tamiya or academy without nearly as many issues; a huge contributor is that super soft light grey plastic. I dont think I have seen any of the newer plastic in person yet but I have high hopes.

• 
  @williamroberts181912 күн бұрын

  Good morning sir.

• 
  @DrewsModels12 күн бұрын

  Really cool build! I didn’t know the Germans captured a P-51. Thanks for sharing. Take care! Drew

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican12 күн бұрын

  They captured quite a few, and got a surprising number flying again. Some were captured intact (emergency landing or pilot landed on a germa airfield by mistake), some where cobbled together with parts that got pulled out of field landed aircraft. They might even have gotten a defector one- I know one of the rosarious P-38s came from a defector

• 
  @charlieboye200912 күн бұрын

  I'm not a fan of these Airfix kits maybe it is because I haven't made any... may one day... one day...... also FIRRRSSSTTT!!

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican12 күн бұрын

  I like a lot abou airfix but especially this period they have some quirks. Builds are usually clean and surface detail is great if you like washes, but esp in 72nd scale a lot of kits have parts that are very easy to break in handling or even taking off the sprue.

• 
  @charlieboye200912 күн бұрын

  @@TheWaggishAmerican I used to build a lot of Hasegawa Airliners in the 1980's. The original kits in the series were quite sturdy, but in the 1990's the quality started to drop. I did watch a video of a recent build by a Japanese modeler and he was complaining about the kit. Their 777 kit was a big letdown for me, but after building it, it did do its job. Airfix now, are riding high off the youtube buzz. I'm blue in the face watching spitfire builds, and it all because of the starter sets. You can try a Heller kit, these tend have a bit more chunkier plastic, they need a bit more work, have raised panel lines and stuff, but with some effort can turn out amazing. Or you can and drive yourself crazy by building the Monogram F-4 phantom Snap Tite kit, Its a toy, that you can build as model, if you dare that is....😁😁

• 
  @JingujiSama13 күн бұрын

  Currently building this one as my first kit that I'm actually painting. And it's a blast! Your video gave me good guidance and inspiration.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican13 күн бұрын

  Glad to hear it!

• 
  @vampiredragon0754Ай бұрын

  WOW!👍🙂♠️

• 
  @FiatPandaSelectaАй бұрын

  Very nice❤

• 
  @patrolduty8715Ай бұрын

  It looks weird to my eyes. The cockpit looks like it is 20 years old. The paint looks like it is 2-3 years old. The smoke mark looks like it is 30 years old. It certainly lacks a bit of consistency in terms of the look. I watch many videos and see thoundsand of old planes, they do not look like this. But overall, the build and the paint for base color is great. Just the weathering needs to improve accuracy (no need to add more effects). To be honest, I am sick of seeing weathering overdone videos on youtube, please dont go that path bro 😢

• 
  @eviltoast2981Ай бұрын

  How have I only found this now? Love this plane!

• 
  @rickrodrigues2219Ай бұрын

  Pristine...love it! Adolf Josef Ferdinand Galland was a German Luftwaffe general! To survive 700 combat missions, the title of "ace" was well deserved! He was quite a character...charasmatic & not fond of the Nazi party! I was born at the closing of the war...it was a time in mankind's history "Never to be forgotten!"

• 
  @TheWaggishAmericanАй бұрын

  His memoir is good reading

• 
  @vincentroelofs89082 ай бұрын

  Has no one noticed the missing gunsight??

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican2 ай бұрын

  I don't remember if I lost it or just forgot it tbh

• 
  @cesarrodriguezcastaneda4942 ай бұрын

  Excellent work my friend. Congratulations.

• 
  @kommandant90992 ай бұрын

  How did you paint the lower part of the aircraft? The part with a bright background with black points

• 
  @marcg16862 ай бұрын

  Nice build. The music sucks.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican2 ай бұрын

  You aren't wrong. Poor music choices in these old vids have been an annoyance both to rewatch and for copyright.

• 
  @lukapie3 ай бұрын

  I swore I saw your comment in a chris chan video am i schizophrenic or something

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican3 ай бұрын

  Nah you're all there. Was probably one of geno's vids. Could have been one of WCT's old vids, or maybe one of Chris' own? I used to keep up with Chris' KZread channel.until around the incident.

• 
  @beaumakinano68933 ай бұрын

  It reminded me of baby c17 and friends🥲

• 
  @DArcher19993 ай бұрын

  Nice job. Did you hand paint the red around the jet engines or mask and spray them?

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican3 ай бұрын

  I don't remember unfortunately.

• 
  @DArcher19993 ай бұрын

  @@TheWaggishAmerican, no worries. I appreciate the reply all the same. Thanks!

• 
  @radosawjaneczek93833 ай бұрын

  What is that music? Can you give me artist or somethis?

• 
  @vitoscaletta38863 ай бұрын

  It's crazy how similar this model is in comparison to the version from eduard.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican3 ай бұрын

  I haven't seen the eduard one. Is there a theory that one copied the other that you are alluding too?

• 
  @vitoscaletta38863 ай бұрын

  @@TheWaggishAmericanNo, they have small differences in the construction. I would say the eduard one is more complicated, but the cockpit (without the PE parts) from the tamiya one looks better. I would recommend the tamiya one to a beginner and the eduard one to someone with experience like you. Try it you won't regret it i promise!

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican3 ай бұрын

  @@vitoscaletta3886 does your review/rec apply only to the E or to all of eduards 109s? Barring a really interesting scheme I dont think Id do another E anytime soon but you may have sold me on one of their other ones...

• 
  @vitoscaletta38863 ай бұрын

  @@TheWaggishAmerican I can only speak for the E-Model, but the other ones should be very similar too i guess. I can recommend you the F Version without the bumps (hate them personally but i think i heard they were necessary to store the heavier machine guns back in the days)

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican3 ай бұрын

  @@vitoscaletta3886 Im liking the looks of the g6as or maybe that romanian g4. A lot of the fs are neat options too.... Guess Ill be adding some kits to my next order. Thanks foe the suggestion.

• 
  @mikeb86443 ай бұрын

  Beautiful build.

• 
  @user-zg8ke5bn1f4 ай бұрын

  Hi everyone, someone told me years ago that my purplish Rufe was wrong. He told me it was a photographic glitch due to the setting sun in that region. But after reading some of these comments about the primer, and knowing the Japanese had bad paint, I'm more convinced this could happen in real life. To me modeling is an expression of one's own impression of a subject. I teach a LOT of seminars on modeling and I tell everyone if you want to paint a purple and pink Sherman tank with multi colored dots on it, go for it. They are building and should enjoy every minute of it, but do your best with that crazy paint scheme. The pink color is more logical due to the brownish primer they used and when beaten by the sun it would go pink. Really great painting, I paint the same way and have gotten 15 Best Of Shows, over 50 Special Awards, and a LOT of 1st places at New England I.P.M.S. competitions. The 1/24th scale Rufe is in my stash, can you see it on the table at a contest.....Whoooo ! I too have a KZread channel at PMCMP, when you get a chance check it out, really enjoy watching someone talented like you doing that painting, keep up the GREAT work. Bill G.

• 
  @robjansen45514 ай бұрын

  Actually, the gray underside is correct and since the US Army approved 40+ shades of "olive drab" during WW2... I'd say you're good...LOL. Great video, thanks.

• 
  @yodagaming86124 ай бұрын

  Very cool build! Nice design on the egg plane, any plans on a mini-series on these types of models/ builds?

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican4 ай бұрын

  I have a faw more, just poke at them when I want to finish something fast

• 
  @sericono90774 ай бұрын

  Nice build. Interesting pink camouflage. I like your aluminum dry brush over black technique. Thanks for sharing the video.

• 
  @Sewy1233dits4 ай бұрын

  E

• 
  @DansModelBench4 ай бұрын

  Try wetting the surface of the model where you want the streaking to occur with the thinner you use with your oils and then apply the drops. That should help with the streaking. Nice build mate.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican4 ай бұрын

  Thst just might be the secret sauce, I've not tried that yet... Will give it a go on my a10, thanks

• 
  @okkami6764 ай бұрын

  18:32, 18:49, 19:06, 19:40, How are you able to pick up your wet decals so smoothly with your brush? And without the decals folding over each other? That's the smoothest technique I have ever seen. Most people use tweezers or finger.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican4 ай бұрын

  I think its mostly how long I soak. I see a lot of other modelers dunk their whole decal sheet for like 2 seconds then let it sit on the table while they work. I keep constant warm almost hot water, place 4-5 decals in at a time, and let them soak 40-60 seconds before placing them on a towel. By time I actually apply them they have usually already come loose from the paper. If they haven't, i break them free with a fingertip, then can lift with the brush. Brush is just a cheap, very stiff synthetic that I keep in a "flathead" configuration. I do have to slide off paper onto model with fingers or tweezers sometimes, especially with old or aftermarket decals, and it is possible to roll them onto themselves but I usually find that once they are free-sliding on the paper this isn't a huge issue. Larger decals Ill sometimes get a corner or edge up, then work the brush like a knifeblade between the decal and paper to free it- then it lifts fine. In my experience Tamiya, Academy, and Hasegawa are very easy to brush-lift. Airfix can be iffy, eduard is really hard.

• 
  @okkami6764 ай бұрын

  @TheWaggishAmerican Thank you for the detailed explanation and for sharing your technique. Very much appreciated.

• 
  @user-zg8ke5bn1f4 ай бұрын

  Check out KZread for PMCMP and watch the episode on decals, not to brag but I have a WAY better application for decals, not to say what you do is wrong, if it works for you then Rock On everyone has their own style of doing whatever, but give my method a try, everyone I have taught it to tells me it is the best way to do decals and is a very logical approach to what some find difficult.

• 
  @NorbertHarmos4 ай бұрын

  How many WW2 plastic models in 1/144 to 1/100 scale planes and tanks do they have

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican4 ай бұрын

  Who is they? If you mean SWEET I have no idea I think they might have gone out of business.

• 
  @rodfredericks19394 ай бұрын

  I've just gotten into this great hobby 53 years of age. .Im on my second plane now ! I have this model to build once my skill get better. Only brush painting mine for now . I see you use tape to hold the body and wings together. Will standard painting masking tape work or will it stick to the model. Your build is fantastic.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican4 ай бұрын

  Standard tan tape is fine, modeling tape like tamiya works too, i use whatever I have strips of on-hand. If you get tape residue on the plastic use iso alcohol to rub it off.

• 
  @rodfredericks19394 ай бұрын

  Many thanks

• 
  @roberste4 ай бұрын

  Beautiful work. I have this kit in my stash.

• 
  @theblytonian39064 ай бұрын

  Old vid I know. Decal conformation. I have this kit and decals. Haven't built it. Have you tried Tamiya Mark Fit. Made for Tamiya decals and notably more aggressive than Microscale Micro Sol. I have both but use Micro Sol most of the time too.

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican4 ай бұрын

  I have not but my LHS has it and Im going to pick some up this weekend. I've got decals to put on an Academy A10 and they look THICK and GLOSSY so something hot is going to be needed lol. I have been using solvaset and its better than microset but still not hot enough for most academy decals, some tamiya decals, and iffy on eduard.

• 
  @jakobfabijan27485 ай бұрын

  What glue did you use

• 
  @giorgiomoretti94345 ай бұрын

  👏👏👏

• 
  @coling39575 ай бұрын

  Malaya should have had about 300 nodern aircraft for defence. But due to the war in the west they didnt come So RAF had to make due and had Buffalos delivered in crates which technicians then assembled.. ( serving in Bekize in 1980s Harriers were delivered in same way and re-assembled on site ) RAF pilots didnt like the Buffalos and the attrition rate was bad. It wss considered near suicide to even take off in one let alone engage superior Japanese planss flown by veterans of war in China.

• 
  @hfdennycheng90105 ай бұрын

  ITS JAPANESE NAME IS 鍾馗. 鍾馗 IS NOT A JAPANESE, HE IS A CHINESE AND HE WAS A GHOSTBUSTER IN ABOUT 8 CENTURY

• 
  @KalundTheFox5 ай бұрын

  This is perfect, thank you. Just coming back into modeling since I was a kid. Did 2 models over last month and half, all Revell and all had fit issues. I snagged this after a recommendation. Can’t wait to follow along during my build. Thx for the content.

• 
  @Octopootie16 ай бұрын

  I think it came out good. Your RLM colors look pretty close. If I may offer one critique, 109's have panel lines running down the spine and belly from the cockpit on top and just behind the big central panel on the belly. Basically where the two main fuselage halves glue together. Since you plan on doing more in the future that may be a detail you'd be interested in adding. Also if possible I'd suggest checking out the wingsy wings kits. They make some absolutely amazing 109 E kits.

• 
  @KalundTheFox5 ай бұрын

  What are RLM colors? I have this kit and I see that on the paint sheet.

• 
  @Octopootie15 ай бұрын

  @@KalundTheFox RLM stands for Reichsluftfarht Ministerium, or roughly State Ministry of Aviation. They established standard colors to be used in painting aircraft. Officially these colors didn't have names, and instead were referenced by a RLM number. Though modern model paint brands have assigned names in addition to the RLM codes. The early war camo colors for fighters would be RLM 02 (Grau), which is the pale green/tanish grey color (also used in the cockpit, wheel wells, and landing gear struts). RLM 71 (Dunkelgrun) which is the dark green color. And RLM 65 (Hellblau) which is the blue color used on the sides and belly of the fuselage, and bottom side of the wings. If you don't want to mix paint, and you're ok with painting lacquers I'd recommend Mr Color, they have all the RLM colors, and they're pretty accurate. If you care less about accuracy and want a really easy to use paint, I'd suggest MRP. They're also lacquer and come pre-thinned for airbrush use. They paint beautifully, but have questionable color accuracy.

• 
  @KalundTheFox5 ай бұрын

  @@Octopootie1 Thanks for that detailed response. Not wanting to mix so I will head down to the model shop and get some Mr Color. Thanks again!!!

• 
  @msw19536 ай бұрын

  Great job Wag, esp. your exhaust weathering. Gonna try your method/paint mixtures on my next 109. Thank you!

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican6 ай бұрын

  Hopefully it turns out well for you!

• 
  @ink4146 ай бұрын

  Does it come with paint?

• 
  @TheWaggishAmerican6 ай бұрын

  No