Tyler's Neighborhood Garage
Tyler's Neighborhood Garage
My name is Tyler. I like to find, rescue and bring back to life cars, trucks and other things that other people didn't want. Everything I do is real, unscripted and always projects that the average person can do with reasonable amounts of money. I do not accept Patreon or other forms of charity. I am known to either talk too much or too little.
I hope that you enjoy the projects that I work on as much as I do!
Пікірлер
Tyler, the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump can get gunked up. If it sticks open, oil pressure goes away. The spring and relief valve needs to be taken out and cleaned. and also the bore. Crocus cloth on the valve. That filter was a hoot. Been rotting on there for a while. Hope you figure it out. Maybe try a new sending unit too?
Good video. The anti drainback valve probably deteriorated from sitting in oil for so long...probably a part of the problem. Those old rubber valves do deteriorate. I agree with others that cleaning the pressure sender may help. The old Ford and Chevy straight 6's don't run much oil pressure...if this one is similar that may be a piece of the puzzle along with likely loose tolerances in an old engine. My theory is its likely a combo of things going on. You've got a good filter on there now at least. Never had a problem with Baldwin or wix
I have all 350s but oldsmobile. Nothing interchange beside lifters and some bolts.
How were you able to clean off the messy sealer from the glass and painted surfaces?
I have seen those video about Fram filters, and while I do agree that they are manufactured very cheaply compared to even store brand filters, I must admit that I have never experienced any problems or mechanical issues due to any brands of oil filter and still occasionally use a Fram when either they are the only size filter available on the shelf when I am purchasing materials for an oil change or if I find a really good deal on one. I would image that if the oil filter had been the cause of your slow cold oil pressure, it is more likely an issue of the filter’s age; the old oil had clogged the filter or the filtering material itself was so old, it was beginning to deteriorate after so many years of service. I believe my next move would be to replace the oil sending unit and see if the problem just goes away.
I don't think modern filters play well with the standpipe. I used K&N after a rebuild and it seemed sluggish to develop pressure at cold start. Removed the pipe and now using Motorcraft.
It does look like the oil filter is coming apart internally. You could try removing the oil pressure sender, and clean the end of it. Or temporarily hook up a cheap oil pressure gauge to see what the pressure is.
#1 none of the old Mopar oil gauges read correctly caused by the mechanical voltage regulator that can not provide a steady 5 volts to the gauges and the oil light is not to be trusted... Neither is the ancient oil filter but that being said the use of a good quality mechanical oil gauge is the only way to know what your oil pressure really is.... Case in point my 87 Ramcharger 318 roller cam 89 engine reads 1/3 up the oil gauge hot...which on a mechanical gauge is 35psi at idle hot in gear...and as soon as you hit the gas the gauge goes straight up to 75psi...this is the only way to truly tell if the engine is producing healthy oil pressure... Your postmortem of the oil filter just proves that getting quality filters and oil and maintaining it all on time is crucial to engine life.... But a good mechanical oil pressure gauge can save you a ton of time diagnosing these issues....and never trust a factory gauge or light..... If you have an engine that starts out with good oil pressure then goes really low using a mechanical gauge...and when you give it gas it does not build oil pressure fast... 9 out of 10 times rod bearings and mains are down to copper....lack of maintainece is what really kills them.
Those old engines had loose tolerances to start with. Using conventional sae30 or 20w50 and a cellulose fibre oil filter may cure your problem. Fram synthetic filters cause knock on start up and low oil pressure until filter goes into bypass mode. High micron rated filters, synthetic / semi synthetic oil cause low oil pressure and are best suited to newer engines with tight tolerances. 5w and 10w oils also cause low oil pressure in high mileage engines as that's the viscosity the oil will shear to.
Not sure about that, could be or a few other things- maybe a combo platter. For my cheaper rides, Super Tech Synthetic. However, the filters I use? Baldwin B-2 or Wix 51515 (including the filters they make for Parts Master, NAPA) on my old Chryslers. Anything Pennzoil? Steer way clear-
I doubt this is your problem, but I had a poorly maintained 318 do that onetime, and It turned out to be the sending unit. Sludge had built up around the hole, and it took about 6-7 seconds to go off and 5-6 seconds to go back on. Looking forward to the next installment.
These videos are invaluable. Thank you
Why I do not use Rockauto Read about to many dissapoints
Thanks you brought me to my childhood!
Rock Auto sent me a “rebuilt” one with completely stripped threads for the brake line fittings and gave me a hard time that it was somehow my fault. First and last fine dealing with Rock Auto.
Great find
I have learned that shit happens when you work on old cars! When we were kids growing up, if the car broke down, you walked! So we learned from necessity to fix things. Later on, I figured out to be fearless with working on cars because if a human built it, a human can fix it! I now let nothing hold me back, and if I can’t figure it out I find something that will teach me to……
Thank you. My quad stays rich at idle. I appreciate your videos.
Keep the master cylinder and get rid of the car ! It works everytime !
THE R 1 BEFORE THE PART # 1516 MEANS R FOR REBUILT AND THE 1 MEANS FIRST TIME REBUILD.. JUST THOUGHT YOU MIGHT WANT TO KNOW, TAKE CARE.
As one guy once said, "Two words: 'Made in America!'" LOL
I had rebuild my quadrajet carburetor twice now and I m tired spending $250 per,, tired of getting crap from the cheap gas there making and all the soot in the bottom of the tank, so I decide to cut off one inch of the pickup line and see if that will solve the problem of flooding.
That's why i quit using rock auto. too many wrong parts and difficult to return, plus you have to wait. rock auto is a joke.
Brings back so many memorys
If its pigeons on the roof, they're probably doing that thing with their necks......
Is Uncle Phil still going strong as of late 2024? Would love to see more videos of him!
I suspect all the new ones use the disc brake casting, but with the correct residual valves for your application.
Worked there Saint Joesph Michigan plant 1974 - 2000 slapped a whole bunch of them castings. 1978 we ran foundry OT in cooler months and had huge piles out in back field that we used magnet on crane to fill totes for later production. Unfortunately rain caused pitting in bores so that was stopped. Then if 75 degrees out side it was a 138 in cool areas of foundry. And lots of OT. Did 10hr days 7 days for 2 months. Worked in all departments over years from machining , all parts of foundry, building and testing,maintenance.
Tyler, what brake fluid do you recommend?
It's not just them, I purchased a a/c receiver dryer from a chevy store. I went by my original part number and the picture on their web site. Needless to say I received one that was completely different and wouldn't work. Thanks GM
It's the same way with the fuel tank on a 1964 Galaxie. There's like a hundred dozen listings for a wagon tank, which is filled from a fender mounted filler... but they ALL use a picture of the tank from a sedan, which is rear-filled. There's no way they're compatible from what I can tell.
That's a TOUGH master cylinder to find. I had a '71 Satellite Sebring Plus back in '90 or '91 with 10" manual brakes and needed to find one then. Took a while! Finally got a re-man at Pep Boys but it wasn't easy. Rock did the same exact thing to me on a M/Cyl back in 2016 or maybe 2015. It was for a power disc brake '71 Charger R/T. All the 'new' ones were the obvious Chinese ones like you got there. Noticeably so. The OE one I had was rounded at the front. I decided to get a re-man that looked just like my original one and lo and behold I got a brand new Chinese replacement instead. I didn't want it so I called support (they still had live cust.svc. then) and I told the guy it was defective, and they took it back. Generally, they won't argue about brake parts for safety concerns. It worked out anyway, I found an NORS Bendix from the '80's on ebay for about $30. Looked the same as the OE and new. BTW, on the papers I got from Rock then, there was a statement from them about being able to substitute parts that look different than the picture but 'function' the same. That's how they get out of it and why I had to claim it was defective to return it. Rock used to be able to get some nice quality old parts that were sitting on a shelf in Mom and Pop parts stores. That's all gone now. They just mostly sell off shore junk.
Appears to be cast aluminum.
I didn't know how you people deal with rock auto. I've been on their website a few times and every time it's just a nightmare finding parts. Nothing ever matches my search even close so I've never used them.
I think I’ve ordered my last parts from Rock Auto. I just ordered rear brake pads for my pickup and they were about half the price of what the local parts chains/stores wanted to charge. By the time they tacked on shipping I was pretty much at the price of the local parts stores. The only way it would be worth ordering from Rock Auto is if the sales tax was eliminated.
I guess I'm lucky, we have a couple of small local chain stores that still have the old school counter's staff. I try to buy from them when I can.
EVERY single 'mom & pop' small parts store around me has been driven out of business over the last 10-12 years by Advance Auto, Vato Zone, or O'Reilly's. Carquest was absorbed by Advance and NAPA has the same junk as the other 3 but more expensive.
I got into it with Rockauto a few years ago when I was working on the engine for my Trans Am. I ordered a flexplate for a pontiac 400 and they sent me a flexplate for an oldsmobile 403. I went through a bunch of back and forth. I even used the flexplate manufacturers own website that states specifically, that the part number RA has listed for a Pontiac 400 is actually for an Olds 403. They refused to listen even though I provided links and screenshots and they denied my return.
They pull these parts from "member" warehouses, like a cooperative. If the warehouse shows stock and what should be the right part, RA has it shipped without even looking at it.
👍
These companies are being told to phase out older parts cause people will not buy this new crap because it's so unreliable unlike the older stuff
As the cars 'age out' or to minimize production costs they'll try to consolidate the catalog of parts wherever possible. I believe that part he got 'may' have worked if they used the correct piston and bore size for manual brakes and used residual valves either in the MC or WC's (They could be in either location by year or application). So, they can make one basic casting for a whole variety of applications and just change a few machining operations, add a couple press in brass inserts, you can cover 100's if not 1000's of applications. I recognized that as the 'standard' Mopar power disc brake Chinese casting that's been around since the '90's. You can tell by the little divot on the front where they mount it for the machining operations. NONE of the OE or '60's '70's or '80's parts have that. Besides, that is a COPY of a generic replacement form factor used on multiple makes.
Wat kinda tool u use on a 2 jet wit the funny screw it's not a 7 mm
A true brand new old stock unit ! Too few and far between for these old gems ! ✌
THANK YOU Buddy
1972 Monte Carlo
Yeah, we've all run into this situation. I am VERY leary of product photos now! But, it is very cool that you found that NOS Reman! Any concerns about the seals/grommets in that kit being so old? Can you find a rebuild kit for it?
The rubber seems fine. You can still find master cylinder kits with some extensive searching.
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Do you think you'll rebuild the original at some point?
Nice video. I bet you want be voting blue again 😆 🤣
that's the problem with restoring old cars, is finding parts that are original, I was supposed to get my dad's model A when he died, my mom wouldn't let me have it, my brother took it apart and told me that I would have to figure out how to put it back together, then my mom passed in 2023, and my brother died in 2023, and my sister was given executor of the estate and she supposably give it to someone for $100 and I priced parts for that car, it was only good for parts, because to buy just brake parts was really high, and I have enough projects already that I don't need another, and the last time the car was on the road was about 45-50 years ago because my dad couldn't find parts for it so it sat in the garage and I have no idea where it is now I was not kept updated on anything
Some of that stuff is still available or could be fabbed up. I believe those had mechanical brakes. That the problem with stuff that old. The people that had it or know or want it are dying off. It's ALWAYS best to leave it together until you know you're going to work on it. A long time ago in the '80's I was in the Navy at San Diego. I used to go to the 'Auto Hobby Shop' on base to work on my car. It was like a fully equipped shop with multiple bays you could rent really cheap, they provided all the tools and you worked on your car. This one nut job dude there decided he was going to 'rebuild' his whole car. It was a GTO, nice shape, '68 or '69. Took the whole car COMPLETELY apart and left it in the stall. I'd watch him while he was doing it. Crazy! So I don't see him for over like 2 weeks. He ended up getting kicked out of the Navy and sold the car to some guy working there for like $50. In pieces! It was 'All there' just stripped down to a shell. Otherwise it was a nice running car, before he started. I mean you probably could have just reassembled it. People taking cars apart is the death of a lot of cars. Parts get lost, people forget.
@@vincemajestyk9497 if I would have got my dad's model A when he died like I was supposed to I would have tried to fix it up, but when my brother decided to take the engine out and tear out the interior, for me it would have been a waste of time, the old cars like that were not made like the later cars, they had a torque tube in them that I had never worked on, so I have no idea how it works, and the car was original, it had never been worked on other than my dad would drain the water out of it in the winter, the cars from the past were way easier to fix then they are now, the car I have now I had to take the front of the car apart just to get one bolt out of the intake, unfortunately where I live the cars I liked are all gone and I have seen people bring cars from the south and if they drive them in the winter within a couple of years they are all rusted out, I am now thinking of building my own car and making it easy to fix and comfortable to drive, we will see how things go in the near future
R1 means ' real one'!
I have a 95 Mazda protege and this helps a lot! Thanks !
Is it possible that the manufacturer is simply using the same body for the disk and drum brake master but changing the piston set up for the drum brake car?
No, the master cylinders are physically different, but to address the piston size, the piston sizes are different between drum and disc and early and late drum, late being ,70 up on an A-body.
That's what I think is going on. I think the pedal effort would be too high with the disk bore like 1 1/32 or 1 1/16 vs the 15/16. Easy to change the RPV inserts. The extra fluid volume intended for the disk calipers won't hurt anything. Those are easy MFR changes to make rather than a unique casting to sell MAYBE 100, just doesn't look right, but can be made to function. Although the parts look the same I believe they are different.
U try nm1493?
Wrong auto 100% sux.