This is AmbiVe, a vehicle project to share my personal projects and other interesting feature vehicles. Check us out on other platforms too! www.ambive.com facebook.com/ambive
What a waste of my time. You literally said you wouldrecommend some better kits and named zero. I watched this longwinded,crybaby ass rant for nothing.
@johnnyjohn807316 күн бұрын
I used to have these exact symptoms, and eventual failure, on my 1991 v6 3.0 4Runner. It turns out that it was the Ignitor. The Ignitor & the coil are both connected by the same bracket. It was an ongoing problem for about 2 years till it completely failed & would no longer start. Oh & by the way, I do have a 1990 Miata, 1.6 that is ready for the paint job, & I'm currently waiting for the machine shop to call me, to pick up my engine block & cylinder head for me to assemble & reinstall on my miata. Anyways, while on the freeway, the same thing would happen to me as with your gal's Miata, suddenly a violent quick stall that would just as fast would reignite the engine. This was usually at 65mph or higher, so obviously mostly on the freeway. And just like your Miata, the high speed at which this would happen, would have momentum enough to quickly reignite the engine. And since my 4Runner is stickshift, it was like push-starting the vehicle but at freeway speeds. Once it left me stranded, my friend & I immediately knew it was the igniter. I ran the pre-OBD2 self diagnostics, & sure enough, it gave a code for the ignitor. I couldn't find the extra OEM ignitor that I jacked from the junkyard, so I bought one from Oreilly's. Turned on right away. I got to point out something else, a part that is similar to the Miata & the 2nd generation 4Runners. That's the AFM, Air Flow Meter, which is frequently confused with the MAF, Mas Air Flow sensor. Both serve the same purpose but the MAF was or is the newer version of the AFM, as I understand it. When this MAF starts giving problems, it can be confused with the CAS problems because they are intermitten problems...once in a while, till it gets worse, then leave you stranded. It will also have you chasing your tail...changing fuel pump, relays, fuel dampners, etc. till it fully fails & leaves you stranded. Good thing is that here in Southern California we have an abundance of junked cars, dry, not rusted nor ruined from salted snowed-in roads. Unfortunately since these same generation cars have parts that are as old as yours, the life expectancy is similar & soon enough I found myself trading in my junkyard replacement for a NAPA remanufactures AFM, which is still good today. If i ever go through these same problems on my miata, at least I know the likely culprit of the problem.
@edmadak835218 күн бұрын
Just to clarify 123ignition never says to not use a timing light. The Green LED is only to get you staticly close to TDC on #1 compression stroke. Sometimes the rotor is between two spark plug lugs on the cap. In that case the next one in rotation is your new #1 and the plug wires should be installed from that new #1 according to the cars firing order. Having someone crank the motor and turning the distributor until it fires is a great way to speed up the process. But remember to always sync the timing on the app with the motor. Here Are A Couple Ways To Help You Sync The App With The Motor. 1) Set a program in your app to 12* across all rpm points. Start the motor and verify that you have 12* at the crank. If you do not simply loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Once you have 12* at the crank, tighten the distributor down. The app is now synchronized with the motor and you can now confidently add a program of your choice and know that it is accurate. or 2) Pick any point along the curve and verify with a timing light that the point on the app (both the rpm and degree) is the same at the crank. If not loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Then tighten the distributor down.
@stingray702821 күн бұрын
I have the shiny sniper and my FPR was full of black substance. I have in tank pump with sock, after pump filter and a before carb filter. So where did this stuff come from ?? I believe today’s gas is breaking down the hoses inside and making the mess.. just my opinion. So I’m going to run all new steel lines and eliminate the hoses.
@AmbiVe21 күн бұрын
If you haven't tried it, look at the copper-nickle tubing. It bends and flares much easier.
@ohc-womensonlinebiblestudy334822 күн бұрын
Thank you for this video. So helpful and answered the specific questions we had. Wish we would have watched earlier.
@StephenERodriguezАй бұрын
How do you keep the fan from coming on during cranking?
@AmbiVeАй бұрын
The fans only receive power when they are switched on thermostatically, be that by thermoswitch or ECU. That's one of the big perks to having a relay in the middle that is switched.
@jamanate11kkАй бұрын
How do I use this time delay relay😊 I love the idea is very important
@MaryPayne-je8of2 ай бұрын
It is BOTH a cam position sensor AND a CRANKSHAFT position sensor. It is driven by the camshaft, but if it only had the cam signal, it wouldn't know where the piston was. The Miata CAS has two rows of circles cut into a disc. The outer row has 4 symmetrical slots and this is the spark signal for the four cylinders. The inner row has two holes or slots, one being 3 times larger than the other. This gives it a dot - dash sort of signal. The two inputs together tell the ecu relative piston position and which cylinder to fire. Some CAS are Hall Affect sensors and some are optical with diodes. Both have a shutter type system. BTW, our Mazda Miata CAS is made by Mitsubishi.
@21titansrock2 ай бұрын
Where did u run vaccum to?
@DannyReckless132 ай бұрын
Still enjoying this kit?
@AmbiVe2 ай бұрын
It still works well, no problems to report. I am contemplating moving to rack and pinion so that I can free up some space and play with the front end setup more, but that is more for really aggressive driving/racing.
@DannyReckless132 ай бұрын
@@AmbiVe My current gear box is 100% clapped out. So, I considering this conversion to save having to rebuild all of the factory components. Appreciate the quick reply!
@AmbiVe2 ай бұрын
That's why I did it. It was a better setup for me than the factory style, feels good, and I figured it would be a decent upgrade over the old system. There isn't a real one size fits all for steering solutions. Good luck with the project!
@paulgallardo21942 ай бұрын
Great video! Can ezefi support an itb setup? Just curious. Thanks in advance
@AmbiVe2 ай бұрын
It would depend on what kind of ITB setup and how well tuned you were trying to get it. At least this unit would be hard. To do ITBs correctly you should probably have a more flexible system that you can properly measure individual pressures, EGT per exhaust tube or bank, etc. I haven't thought of it much, but I would probably look at a standalone solution or something specifically made for the purpose of a properly tuning a system like that.
@shanemunro73563 ай бұрын
Any pics of where you mounted subs?
@AmbiVe3 ай бұрын
At the time, the subs were in separate narrow boxes tucked behind the back seat. They wedged in against the metal framing and hump of the trunk to look like the back of the seat. When I remade the system this last time. I made one large box that sticks farther into the trunk, but is fully sealed and running two beefy Skar audio subs with a new amp.
@RW-zh7kl3 ай бұрын
Wow, just saw this was 5 years ago! Im looking at installing an electric fan and there is literrally no one that makes a kit for a 67 Mustang.
@AmbiVe3 ай бұрын
They all didn't fit even 5 years ago! I would make my own shroud and use a nice SPAL if I were doing it now.
@BobHGarage4 ай бұрын
Solid video
@vivalawholesome34834 ай бұрын
A lot of these symptoms are what my 95 Miata is experiencing right now. The car would run and drive fine, but when I would put it in neutral and coast, the RPM's would drop very low and sometimes stall. This wasn't a super bad issue until just a few days ago when I was starting it to go to class, it started, proceeded to shutter and die and now I can't get it started. I am assuming its the CAS, any ideas?
@Veritch-Electric4 ай бұрын
Great info, very articulated. I will buy the better kit cuz....fuk all that
@heinies_hobbies5 ай бұрын
is there a risk of throwing off the timing when taking the CAS out and putting in a new one?
@AmbiVe5 ай бұрын
Not just doing the CAS. It is keyed to only connect one way. It is simply a pain to figure out which way that is when you're upsidedown and backwards in the engine bay ;)
@hohmanjr25 ай бұрын
Did this project require an additional port being added to the intake manifold somewhere to support the idle air control valve? If yes, where was it located? Thanks in advance.
@joey.g5 ай бұрын
what is the torque on the upper control arm bushing nuts? Can the upper control arm shaft be easily serviced/replaced.
@yellowtr65 ай бұрын
Whose aluminum fuel tank are you using? Boyd's?
@michaelpilot10005 ай бұрын
$2,000 + dollars. Hmmm.
@johncoleman19356 ай бұрын
Good tips - like it you got to the point.
@norbertodevargas77226 ай бұрын
Can I use this product with A four speed tranny
@jeremyblock40696 ай бұрын
Does there need to be any kind of cap over the hole at the base of the piston where you connected the air compressor to extend the piston or that just stays open??
@MidnightMiata6 ай бұрын
I've been having a similar issue with my VVT swapped 91. It'd stumble at both idle and load. Since I'm running a Megasquirt ECU, there was a "sync loss 31" in the data log, which points to the cam sensor. Apparently they're prone to failure on the NB's, but from doing some research, Mazda has updated the design in recent years, so the failures aren't nearly as common.
@sepg50847 ай бұрын
So, those big fender vents on the gen 3 viper are fake vents?
@ricardoalfaro73497 ай бұрын
Do the camshafts have to be placed back the same exact way it came off ?
@stevenanderson53554 ай бұрын
I think so or needs to be retimed
@hpjunke8 ай бұрын
So what would be the reason my single ground temp switch doesn’t turn my fans on but if i unhook it and touch it to ground , it works perfectly .. the ground wire is directly mounted into the relay ground
@incredibleadventures10278 ай бұрын
Useless video. "I need to figure out the best place to put the wire. I finally found the perfect spot. I'm not going to show it though. Good luck everyone else. I dont know why I made this video"
@jimrusher48968 ай бұрын
How do you access the grease fittings?
@ulbruce8 ай бұрын
Thanks! My knob just broke and I ordered new ones from Moss. Didn't realize how easy it was to change just the knob...G-d I love KZread videos and guys like you...thanks again...
@williamhaynes70898 ай бұрын
Easier than i thought... will be doing mine this weekend
@toyotabrony8 ай бұрын
That’s why u have Holley retrobright, Holley and morimoto collab and they make a period correct led sealed beam type headlights. And they are excellent for classic cars.
@louiscrooker98518 ай бұрын
Why not run external regulator?
@johnnycee51799 ай бұрын
I want to put a 292 in my Miata
@johnnycee51799 ай бұрын
You should have got a 3 code
@colededen9 ай бұрын
I have a 1992 Miata with a 1.8 engine swap and basically whole drivetrain from a 1994 model. I had a similar issue, was driving and hit a rather bumpy patch of the road and immediately after the tach dropped to zero and it felt like the whole engine turned off while I was still doing about 40 miles an hour. The engine turned back on in like a split second. But after that incident it did it 4 more times on the way home and every incident got a little bit worse and sketchier. When I pulled in my driveway the car was idling fine but the fuel pump was making a weird noise. Almost sounds like a washing machine running in the distance if that makes sense. Does this sound like a CAS issue to y’all? Any recommendations? Thanks for any input I really appreciate it.
@AmbiVe9 ай бұрын
It sounds like you have something loose. Since it died and runs so rough, I would check that the CAS didn't move and mess up timing, that all your ignition connectors are right, your coils are tight, and your grounds are all clean and tight.
@colededen9 ай бұрын
@@AmbiVethanks for the quick reply!!! That was wicked quick. Im subscribing now
@Noble7139 ай бұрын
I bought a ISIS-Power/Infinitybox ages ago for my MkIV Supra and haven't been happy with it. I'm already using an EMU Black so I think installing the PMU16 is a no-brainer. You're running the whole car with a singe 16-output box? I think my current Infinitybox setup can handle 20 circuits (10 front, 10 back), mostly using the front ones.
@marcpetit33799 ай бұрын
Hi, Thank’s, i ‘ve to do the same thing. I just removed the valve cover but i’m blocked with the cam. Before to take-off the pulley you do not make marks on the belt and pulleys? Thank you for your answer, i have my head in the engine 😂
@cartelclassics123810 ай бұрын
I just went through all this with a sniper unit intermittent running issues on stalling..took apart to check the regulator put a gauge on it 75 PSI. all the powdercoating inside the regulator area was coming off. super poor design !!! spend 2 hrs with a Dremel and small pic removing every trace of powdercoat. I'd already plumbed return line otherwise I would have used a wix LS fuel filter if I'd known that's the PSI needed. I removed all the holley regulator and installed a aeromotive one w/ a guage.. so far hasn't not started yet.. Holley should honestly have to recall every sniper that's been powder-coated because it's going to be a problem for every single one eventually
@Tartan120610 ай бұрын
It may be coming from powder coating breaking down within the fuel pressure regulator area
@MGB-learning10 ай бұрын
Outstanding video and presentation.
@MGB-learning10 ай бұрын
Outstanding video and presentation.
@dracolich34510 ай бұрын
My NA was running a little hot, but mostly fine... Suddenly died at low rpm while *descending* a hill... Couldn't get it to start again. Cranks hard but no juice. Faulty CAS?
@CjaaB582 ай бұрын
Hey, any chance you figured this out? I’m having a similar issue
@davidcardenas193110 ай бұрын
Quick question I have a 2006 Mazda Miata and it dies while driving, I’ve replace gas pump, the switch at the end of the key switch but still dies. I clean the throttle body too. Is automatic though does my car have that part you replace in your girlfriend’s car?
@AmbiVe10 ай бұрын
I'm not sure how the 06 is setup, but they will all have some system for ignition timing vs cam or crank position. You could look up your specific car to see how it works for sure. That does sound like a spark issue or fuel, and since checked fuel pump, my guess is either the computer, fuel pump relay, or ignition system side. Good luck!
@carolettajames547110 ай бұрын
not looking foward to this
@Mx5buthead10 ай бұрын
I rebuilt the lifters yesterday and primed all of them with oil and they are still ticking, do I need to let them “run in” at all? Please help.
@AmbiVe10 ай бұрын
If they are filled and ticking, you may need to let them run a bit. It could also be a little air in them or you could have play elsewhere. It could also be the oil you're running combined with how worn your valve train is. You can make guesses by how bad the ticking is, if it changes with temperature or oil pressure, etc.
@Mx5buthead10 ай бұрын
@@AmbiVe it is due and oil change, do you think this will help?
@AmbiVe10 ай бұрын
Old or thin oil will definitely make it tick or make it tick worse. It also depends on what oil you're running for additives and viscosity.
@simphiweapono18110 ай бұрын
Great Video and clear explanation, i have a qn to ask, Made a mistake mixed my lifters together, its hydrolic lifters for elantra j2 1997, how do i get them to be at the right platform or how will i know which ones are for the exhaust and which its for the intake
@TheZombiesInfected4 ай бұрын
Buy new ones lmao you're fucked
@cgmissy988010 ай бұрын
I have a 66, but mine is an automatic transmission too. What do I need to do differently?
Пікірлер
Excellent video nice job!
What a waste of my time. You literally said you wouldrecommend some better kits and named zero. I watched this longwinded,crybaby ass rant for nothing.
I used to have these exact symptoms, and eventual failure, on my 1991 v6 3.0 4Runner. It turns out that it was the Ignitor. The Ignitor & the coil are both connected by the same bracket. It was an ongoing problem for about 2 years till it completely failed & would no longer start. Oh & by the way, I do have a 1990 Miata, 1.6 that is ready for the paint job, & I'm currently waiting for the machine shop to call me, to pick up my engine block & cylinder head for me to assemble & reinstall on my miata. Anyways, while on the freeway, the same thing would happen to me as with your gal's Miata, suddenly a violent quick stall that would just as fast would reignite the engine. This was usually at 65mph or higher, so obviously mostly on the freeway. And just like your Miata, the high speed at which this would happen, would have momentum enough to quickly reignite the engine. And since my 4Runner is stickshift, it was like push-starting the vehicle but at freeway speeds. Once it left me stranded, my friend & I immediately knew it was the igniter. I ran the pre-OBD2 self diagnostics, & sure enough, it gave a code for the ignitor. I couldn't find the extra OEM ignitor that I jacked from the junkyard, so I bought one from Oreilly's. Turned on right away. I got to point out something else, a part that is similar to the Miata & the 2nd generation 4Runners. That's the AFM, Air Flow Meter, which is frequently confused with the MAF, Mas Air Flow sensor. Both serve the same purpose but the MAF was or is the newer version of the AFM, as I understand it. When this MAF starts giving problems, it can be confused with the CAS problems because they are intermitten problems...once in a while, till it gets worse, then leave you stranded. It will also have you chasing your tail...changing fuel pump, relays, fuel dampners, etc. till it fully fails & leaves you stranded. Good thing is that here in Southern California we have an abundance of junked cars, dry, not rusted nor ruined from salted snowed-in roads. Unfortunately since these same generation cars have parts that are as old as yours, the life expectancy is similar & soon enough I found myself trading in my junkyard replacement for a NAPA remanufactures AFM, which is still good today. If i ever go through these same problems on my miata, at least I know the likely culprit of the problem.
Just to clarify 123ignition never says to not use a timing light. The Green LED is only to get you staticly close to TDC on #1 compression stroke. Sometimes the rotor is between two spark plug lugs on the cap. In that case the next one in rotation is your new #1 and the plug wires should be installed from that new #1 according to the cars firing order. Having someone crank the motor and turning the distributor until it fires is a great way to speed up the process. But remember to always sync the timing on the app with the motor. Here Are A Couple Ways To Help You Sync The App With The Motor. 1) Set a program in your app to 12* across all rpm points. Start the motor and verify that you have 12* at the crank. If you do not simply loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Once you have 12* at the crank, tighten the distributor down. The app is now synchronized with the motor and you can now confidently add a program of your choice and know that it is accurate. or 2) Pick any point along the curve and verify with a timing light that the point on the app (both the rpm and degree) is the same at the crank. If not loosen the distributor and turn it until you do. Then tighten the distributor down.
I have the shiny sniper and my FPR was full of black substance. I have in tank pump with sock, after pump filter and a before carb filter. So where did this stuff come from ?? I believe today’s gas is breaking down the hoses inside and making the mess.. just my opinion. So I’m going to run all new steel lines and eliminate the hoses.
If you haven't tried it, look at the copper-nickle tubing. It bends and flares much easier.
Thank you for this video. So helpful and answered the specific questions we had. Wish we would have watched earlier.
How do you keep the fan from coming on during cranking?
The fans only receive power when they are switched on thermostatically, be that by thermoswitch or ECU. That's one of the big perks to having a relay in the middle that is switched.
How do I use this time delay relay😊 I love the idea is very important
It is BOTH a cam position sensor AND a CRANKSHAFT position sensor. It is driven by the camshaft, but if it only had the cam signal, it wouldn't know where the piston was. The Miata CAS has two rows of circles cut into a disc. The outer row has 4 symmetrical slots and this is the spark signal for the four cylinders. The inner row has two holes or slots, one being 3 times larger than the other. This gives it a dot - dash sort of signal. The two inputs together tell the ecu relative piston position and which cylinder to fire. Some CAS are Hall Affect sensors and some are optical with diodes. Both have a shutter type system. BTW, our Mazda Miata CAS is made by Mitsubishi.
Where did u run vaccum to?
Still enjoying this kit?
It still works well, no problems to report. I am contemplating moving to rack and pinion so that I can free up some space and play with the front end setup more, but that is more for really aggressive driving/racing.
@@AmbiVe My current gear box is 100% clapped out. So, I considering this conversion to save having to rebuild all of the factory components. Appreciate the quick reply!
That's why I did it. It was a better setup for me than the factory style, feels good, and I figured it would be a decent upgrade over the old system. There isn't a real one size fits all for steering solutions. Good luck with the project!
Great video! Can ezefi support an itb setup? Just curious. Thanks in advance
It would depend on what kind of ITB setup and how well tuned you were trying to get it. At least this unit would be hard. To do ITBs correctly you should probably have a more flexible system that you can properly measure individual pressures, EGT per exhaust tube or bank, etc. I haven't thought of it much, but I would probably look at a standalone solution or something specifically made for the purpose of a properly tuning a system like that.
Any pics of where you mounted subs?
At the time, the subs were in separate narrow boxes tucked behind the back seat. They wedged in against the metal framing and hump of the trunk to look like the back of the seat. When I remade the system this last time. I made one large box that sticks farther into the trunk, but is fully sealed and running two beefy Skar audio subs with a new amp.
Wow, just saw this was 5 years ago! Im looking at installing an electric fan and there is literrally no one that makes a kit for a 67 Mustang.
They all didn't fit even 5 years ago! I would make my own shroud and use a nice SPAL if I were doing it now.
Solid video
A lot of these symptoms are what my 95 Miata is experiencing right now. The car would run and drive fine, but when I would put it in neutral and coast, the RPM's would drop very low and sometimes stall. This wasn't a super bad issue until just a few days ago when I was starting it to go to class, it started, proceeded to shutter and die and now I can't get it started. I am assuming its the CAS, any ideas?
Great info, very articulated. I will buy the better kit cuz....fuk all that
is there a risk of throwing off the timing when taking the CAS out and putting in a new one?
Not just doing the CAS. It is keyed to only connect one way. It is simply a pain to figure out which way that is when you're upsidedown and backwards in the engine bay ;)
Did this project require an additional port being added to the intake manifold somewhere to support the idle air control valve? If yes, where was it located? Thanks in advance.
what is the torque on the upper control arm bushing nuts? Can the upper control arm shaft be easily serviced/replaced.
Whose aluminum fuel tank are you using? Boyd's?
$2,000 + dollars. Hmmm.
Good tips - like it you got to the point.
Can I use this product with A four speed tranny
Does there need to be any kind of cap over the hole at the base of the piston where you connected the air compressor to extend the piston or that just stays open??
I've been having a similar issue with my VVT swapped 91. It'd stumble at both idle and load. Since I'm running a Megasquirt ECU, there was a "sync loss 31" in the data log, which points to the cam sensor. Apparently they're prone to failure on the NB's, but from doing some research, Mazda has updated the design in recent years, so the failures aren't nearly as common.
So, those big fender vents on the gen 3 viper are fake vents?
Do the camshafts have to be placed back the same exact way it came off ?
I think so or needs to be retimed
So what would be the reason my single ground temp switch doesn’t turn my fans on but if i unhook it and touch it to ground , it works perfectly .. the ground wire is directly mounted into the relay ground
Useless video. "I need to figure out the best place to put the wire. I finally found the perfect spot. I'm not going to show it though. Good luck everyone else. I dont know why I made this video"
How do you access the grease fittings?
Thanks! My knob just broke and I ordered new ones from Moss. Didn't realize how easy it was to change just the knob...G-d I love KZread videos and guys like you...thanks again...
Easier than i thought... will be doing mine this weekend
That’s why u have Holley retrobright, Holley and morimoto collab and they make a period correct led sealed beam type headlights. And they are excellent for classic cars.
Why not run external regulator?
I want to put a 292 in my Miata
You should have got a 3 code
I have a 1992 Miata with a 1.8 engine swap and basically whole drivetrain from a 1994 model. I had a similar issue, was driving and hit a rather bumpy patch of the road and immediately after the tach dropped to zero and it felt like the whole engine turned off while I was still doing about 40 miles an hour. The engine turned back on in like a split second. But after that incident it did it 4 more times on the way home and every incident got a little bit worse and sketchier. When I pulled in my driveway the car was idling fine but the fuel pump was making a weird noise. Almost sounds like a washing machine running in the distance if that makes sense. Does this sound like a CAS issue to y’all? Any recommendations? Thanks for any input I really appreciate it.
It sounds like you have something loose. Since it died and runs so rough, I would check that the CAS didn't move and mess up timing, that all your ignition connectors are right, your coils are tight, and your grounds are all clean and tight.
@@AmbiVethanks for the quick reply!!! That was wicked quick. Im subscribing now
I bought a ISIS-Power/Infinitybox ages ago for my MkIV Supra and haven't been happy with it. I'm already using an EMU Black so I think installing the PMU16 is a no-brainer. You're running the whole car with a singe 16-output box? I think my current Infinitybox setup can handle 20 circuits (10 front, 10 back), mostly using the front ones.
Hi, Thank’s, i ‘ve to do the same thing. I just removed the valve cover but i’m blocked with the cam. Before to take-off the pulley you do not make marks on the belt and pulleys? Thank you for your answer, i have my head in the engine 😂
I just went through all this with a sniper unit intermittent running issues on stalling..took apart to check the regulator put a gauge on it 75 PSI. all the powdercoating inside the regulator area was coming off. super poor design !!! spend 2 hrs with a Dremel and small pic removing every trace of powdercoat. I'd already plumbed return line otherwise I would have used a wix LS fuel filter if I'd known that's the PSI needed. I removed all the holley regulator and installed a aeromotive one w/ a guage.. so far hasn't not started yet.. Holley should honestly have to recall every sniper that's been powder-coated because it's going to be a problem for every single one eventually
It may be coming from powder coating breaking down within the fuel pressure regulator area
Outstanding video and presentation.
Outstanding video and presentation.
My NA was running a little hot, but mostly fine... Suddenly died at low rpm while *descending* a hill... Couldn't get it to start again. Cranks hard but no juice. Faulty CAS?
Hey, any chance you figured this out? I’m having a similar issue
Quick question I have a 2006 Mazda Miata and it dies while driving, I’ve replace gas pump, the switch at the end of the key switch but still dies. I clean the throttle body too. Is automatic though does my car have that part you replace in your girlfriend’s car?
I'm not sure how the 06 is setup, but they will all have some system for ignition timing vs cam or crank position. You could look up your specific car to see how it works for sure. That does sound like a spark issue or fuel, and since checked fuel pump, my guess is either the computer, fuel pump relay, or ignition system side. Good luck!
not looking foward to this
I rebuilt the lifters yesterday and primed all of them with oil and they are still ticking, do I need to let them “run in” at all? Please help.
If they are filled and ticking, you may need to let them run a bit. It could also be a little air in them or you could have play elsewhere. It could also be the oil you're running combined with how worn your valve train is. You can make guesses by how bad the ticking is, if it changes with temperature or oil pressure, etc.
@@AmbiVe it is due and oil change, do you think this will help?
Old or thin oil will definitely make it tick or make it tick worse. It also depends on what oil you're running for additives and viscosity.
Great Video and clear explanation, i have a qn to ask, Made a mistake mixed my lifters together, its hydrolic lifters for elantra j2 1997, how do i get them to be at the right platform or how will i know which ones are for the exhaust and which its for the intake
Buy new ones lmao you're fucked
I have a 66, but mine is an automatic transmission too. What do I need to do differently?