I don't think the balance shaft being removed is causing your engine to vibrate that much. I have mine removed on the same 2azfe toyota engine as yours and it runs very smooth at all rpms. However I also removed the balance shaft housing and blocked off the oil feed hole to it. Since you have the engine out already you should check the condition of the rod bearings.
@MercurySaturnАй бұрын
Still running okay without the balance shafts? i ask because my Balance Shafts spun the bearings and wore into the upper oil pan. So i'm considering a balance shaft delete option.
@funkyphil1974Ай бұрын
Hey, how’s it going? Yes, I’m still running perfectly fine without the balance shaft It’s been about s 4 years and it’s been running great. There is a slight vibration at idle otherwise everything is perfectly fine.
@Paul-cb2rb3 ай бұрын
What happened? Did you find out?
@Z-Ack3 ай бұрын
Why would you need to remove the thing off of the crank at all if deleting the balance shafts? Itll just be doing nothing..
@glenglene84736 ай бұрын
To keep the oil pressure the same, can you just press out the black plastic rear on the two-gear balance shaft and put it back? This way will disconnect the balance shafts from the crank shaft and oil pressure remained unchanged.
@joshuasherman38926 ай бұрын
Great info! I do have one question do you need to re-install the housing that holds the balance shafts?
@funkyphil19746 ай бұрын
I did only because why not however I don’t see any reason you have too. Thanks and Happy Holidays my friend
@joshuasherman38926 ай бұрын
@funkyphil1974 Thanks man! Yah makes sense to install it add a little extra strength but I was thinking about leaving it out for the little extra oil capacity. Happy holidays man!
@texastoyotachannel89516 ай бұрын
Whe. I don't mine with the light light pulleys I'm leaving the case out. That's a good bit of weight reduction.
@shreddogs12398 ай бұрын
How much boost were you running?
@SkepticalVLOGS9 ай бұрын
wow
@ErickeverRB11 ай бұрын
I’m having the same issue
@funkyphil197410 ай бұрын
My issue was the axle joint was popping out of the knuckle, I pulled the axle back out reseated it and put a new boot on. wasn't that bad of a job..
@ceoink393611 ай бұрын
When u take the gare from the shaft did you take it to any machine shop
@funkyphil197410 ай бұрын
Well I removed the gear myself with heat and brass hammer with a few taps. But yes the entire rotating assembly went to be balanced at the machine shop..
@ceoink39367 ай бұрын
Is it a must to do all that
@ceoink39367 ай бұрын
What If I just move the balance shafts and block the hold can it work like that
@docouchi7929 Жыл бұрын
You took out the entire engine ? Sounds like a long project
@funkyphil1974 Жыл бұрын
Yes much faster to pull the entire engine and transmission all together then fight with what little space you have to wiggle out the transmission. For me it only takes me 3.5 hours to pull both. I pull the axles disconnect the spipe and remove the rear motor mount bolt. Then I sit back down on all 4 wheels and work in the engine bay where I just unplug the wiring harness from both the ecu and fuse box lay it on the top of the engine. Remove the battery next. Then I disconnect the fuel line set it aside. Drain the radiator pull it up and out. Basically by. Now it’s time to attach the engine hoist and remove remaining engine mount bolts. Now I start to lift it up and can gain access to back of the engine where I remove the bolts holding the intake manifold on and get it out of the way, also I have room now to disconnect the power steering pump line leaving the pump still attached. Much easier and faster to leave it attached and just re bleed it once back in again. Now keep lifting it up and backing it out of the engine bay and onto my garage. I have done it both ways but I find it to be faster this way since I don’t own a lift. Working on my back in a driveway doesn’t leave a lot of room to get out the transmission. I will take 3.5 hours and a few extra steps to pull both plus gives me chance to look over the engine if need be. Thanks for your comment
@chrismemphis8062 Жыл бұрын
So what happens if I don't block off the oil feed?
@solarastuff11 ай бұрын
Oil pressure goes to 0 and engine go boom.
@funkyphil197410 ай бұрын
Just like solarastuff said it will allow oil to drop into the crankcase instead of spraying it with pressure, this will cause low to no oil pressure..
@chrismemphis806210 ай бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 ty, I had a good mechanic do the mod. He blocked it off, car has been running well for over 5k miles. Thanks!
@MercurySaturnАй бұрын
@@chrismemphis8062 still running okay? i ask because my balance shafts spun the bearings and wore into the upper engine pan. i don't want to replace the upper pan, so i'm considering the Balance Shaft delete option.
@chrismemphis8062Ай бұрын
@@MercurySaturn yeah, probably 8k miles since I took them out and plugged the oil passage. It sounds a bit rough w/o it, but not terrible.
@popeyesanchez155 Жыл бұрын
??????
@--kyle Жыл бұрын
Looks like 00000010 would be cylinder 2 then. 1 in the place where a digit is the cylinder that mis-fires. So second digit place = cylinder 2
@kramnull89622 жыл бұрын
I bought a 2006 TC in 11/2005. Dogged it every step of the 120,000 miles of its life. Got a good ole clanking when the engine starts up. I am most certain it has spun a rod bearing. There is a kit on ebay that has an "upgraded piston" set that has more holes machined in the ring land. It is supposed to have the piston pin changed to accommodate for any head and block resurfacing. Did you use a kit similar to that? I figure my worst cost will be the crankshaft, but they have those new on ebay for $250, so I'm not sweating that. Have you ever taken the balance shafts out of a 2.4L? I hear it will make more power but run rougher. Question is how rough is rough. Also have you heard of any pinpointed reason that the rod bearings might be getting hit hard in the TC, other than low oil? I know for a fact mine has never ran low, and until a year ago had only 3000 mile or less oil changes. But I am hard on her with the 5sp. manual. 17 years of service from her for the $15000 out the door I paid for it; I cannot complain one bit for having to spend $1000 on her this late in the game. Namely the only thing I have ever put on it mechanically was the rear calipers and pads all the way around twice. (Ran 225/30/20's for years) Caliper on the rear got stuck. I am preparing to open the engine up this week just to peek at the crank. If there is any machining to be done to the crank, I'm just going with a new crank; even for 1 rod journal. It has such a bad clack on the first 3 revolutions that the bearing must have left the building. Already have a clutch on deck, with release bearing. Do you find it necessary to replace the pressure plate with a standard replacement clutch, or just because you went with a higher performance clutch? I went with what the website said was a stage 3 street clutch, so I don't suppose that it is super high performance or anything. But the stock clutch that is in it now has always slipped some when the temperature is 30 degrees or below. Thanks for your time man. I have rebuilt several other engines in the past, just curious about your feedback of parts you have used before in your rebuilds of the 2.4L. Also have you ever seen a 2.4L with the Brian Crower 2.6L stroker kit? It is hard to want to pay for a $3800 crank kit and have the website hoodoo me. There was a Scion specialty performance shop in Kentucky back in 2006-2010 or so, and they sold all kinds of awesome parts, even machined them in house. Then it came out they had started scamming peoples credit cards for over a year and packed up shop and left out; owing some people $50,000 of parts. Heck they really sold Stage 1, 2 and stage 3 heads, multiple grinds of cams as well as upgraded 11:1 or 8:1 pistons, with multiple selection of rod lengths. It's too bad people find it more profitable to cheat people than to sell an awesome product.
@funkyphil1974 Жыл бұрын
Man I missed this comment my bad. I am sure you have probably built up your engine by now. I have seen the BC stroker kit but truth be told I think that is wasteful. Yes you will make more power but building the engine with new rods pistons and bearings as well as arp head bolts will really be the difference because now you can toss a turbo on it and the amount of power is going to be amazing. Balance shaft removal is fine I have do it and yes it spins up faster allowing me to spool up the turbo faster. There is lil vibration at idle but I also have solid motor mounts but all in all not horrible. The company you are referring to I believe is Dezod and yes they did end up closing doors and folks had hard time getting their cash back. The owner had medical issues I believe heart attack and stroke leaving him bed rest his brother tried to run the business for him until he got better but didn’t do good and the company ended up closing. At least that’s what I heard. Again sorry for the late reply but thanks for reaching out. I like to see your build if you still have it.
@FERNANDOFRANCHI2 жыл бұрын
I would be better for the planet to remove this useless video from KZread. No words explaining anything . Horrible loud music doesn’t allow to hear the clutch noise if any.
@argimiroperdomo97022 жыл бұрын
I would like to share some images of a 2AZFE engine that I have to repair, I was struck by a video that you posted where you remove the balance shafts. Could you give me your e-mail?
@argimiroperdomo97022 жыл бұрын
It really seems somewhat daring but ingenious ..
@ceoink393611 ай бұрын
So your saying it works well
@argimiroperdomo97022 жыл бұрын
Do you think it is better to leave the drive gear of the balancers that goes on the crankshaft? there will be no imbalance problems?
@CSOCSO2 жыл бұрын
my understanding is if you remove the gear off of the crankshaft you will need to get it rebalanced. ( if you take apart the engine to rebuild you will do that anyway) but lets say if they balanced the cranckshaft with the gear on you can leave it and just remove the balance shaft and plug the hole
@anthonysupplee858 Жыл бұрын
The guys on Rav4 world break the gear off.
@argimiroperdomo97022 жыл бұрын
I understand that it accelerates very well but that at idle it presents vibration, therefore it is necessary to replace the damper puleys with one of better performance, right?
@funkyphil19742 жыл бұрын
There is lil vibration I just replaced my hermonic balancer with hp AIT one. I been on this setup for 9 years no issues!! And I am boosted making 350hp. So it works great for me.
@argimiroperdomo97022 жыл бұрын
I would like to know if after eliminating the 2 balance shafts the engine worked correctly? no vibrations?
@Z-Ack3 ай бұрын
Good vibrations..
@timsouttahere2 жыл бұрын
What size tap did you use?
@funkyphil19742 жыл бұрын
Irwin Hanson High Carbon Steel Metric Plug Tap 10mm-1.00 1 pc
@timsouttahere2 жыл бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 I used 6mm tap and set screw. We'll see if it works tomorrow 🤞
@funkyphil19742 жыл бұрын
@@timsouttahere as long as it’s tight it should be good. I also used lil sealant.
@timsouttahere2 жыл бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 I used red loctite
@funkyphil19742 жыл бұрын
@@timsouttahere me too!
@abhiabhran43302 жыл бұрын
Appuppan poliyanu
@Heavonix3 жыл бұрын
does that has a pilot bearing? i have an 08 tc and i dont know if need it.
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
No Pilot bearing on the first Gen.
@Heavonix3 жыл бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 thks man been struggling with that manual swap.
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
@@Heavonix no worries if I can help just ask. I know these engines pretty well and rebuilt them more than a few times. Plus boosted mine.
@Heavonix3 жыл бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 will do thks man.
@Heavonix2 жыл бұрын
sorry to bother you again man, can i use the same axles even if i swap the transmision to a manual?
@gametime64253 жыл бұрын
helal len şebek
@joequillun77903 жыл бұрын
What transmission? EB60 6 speed? Any modifications, or problems with the original?
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
Hi my car is an 2006 Scion TC with the stock E350 manual transmission. It’s a 5 speed.
@joequillun77903 жыл бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 OK, thanks Phil.
@mikesmith-th5rf3 жыл бұрын
Worst vid i ever watched
@ScionTc3 жыл бұрын
Did you tune the car after turbo install ?
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
Yes I did
@ErickeverRB3 жыл бұрын
How ya like your stage 4
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
I love it took about a week to get use to it but it grabs and goes now no slipping. It’s good to note that I just resurfaced the oem flywheel no need to buy another if there isn’t any issues.
@fsanchez133 жыл бұрын
You can't learn if you don't fall. I'm jealous I'm 51 just starting to get back into flatland riding again but I'm finding it
@nick93413 жыл бұрын
Wake up, wake up, it’s the first of tha month. So what’s wrong with the clutch?
@andymma62863 жыл бұрын
My scion has started rattling when i lightly step on the accelerator at high speeds. And also it kinda knocks when deceletating :( any help or suggestions?
@Zoomydoomy3 жыл бұрын
By rattling do you mean the dashboard is rattling because the engine is knocking or misfiring causing it to jump around the engine bay? And do you mean knocking as in an audible crankshaft knock? If so, you likely have to replace the motor. Side note: if you're going speeds over 100mph, don't do that.
@srhabb3 жыл бұрын
Hey my motor has been making this sound since I started using stantanelo's pistons.
@ShaneVlogss3 жыл бұрын
This is great info I’ve been looking for it , my motor is already fully built but do you think i can delete just the balance shaft and not need to take the motor out and balance ,
@johnchadwicktilton3 жыл бұрын
I was wondering the same.
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
Yes you can but you must be careful to clean all metal shavings from tapping the oil plug.
@glenglene84736 ай бұрын
I think it's easier to tap the lower housing part.
@leslie-tolman3 жыл бұрын
😍😍😍😋😋😋😋🤩🤩🤩
@leslie-tolman3 жыл бұрын
Craziness my car is leaking from this point too... I subbed, think I can learn much from you!!
@leslie-tolman3 жыл бұрын
Damn... this is what mine's doing right now... what causes this??
@spyingonyallteacup27442 жыл бұрын
Mines doing the same did you find out what's the cause
@spyingonyallteacup27442 жыл бұрын
You might need a new Valve cover or a new head gasket both under 150 bucks
@leslie-tolman3 жыл бұрын
As typical, I'll be rebuilding my engine in my 08 tC here soon and I'm only doing this shit once if I have my way lol. Replacing all internals, machine shop etc and deleting these shafts. Question is, how does it affect driving/vibration etc, timing, ECU etc?? Any troubles you've experienced?? Did you have retune ECU?? Sorry so many questions but I've only been working on cars for a year now and my tc is both my baby and my only car at this time (will be dropping in used temp engine during rebuild of mine.) Any info helps and thank you for the vid & assistance, helps a ton!!
@richstarbuck43153 жыл бұрын
I removed mine and the knock sensor code keeps coming back and then won't let the transmission shift to overdrive. It doesn't seem to be that much vibration but evidently the knock sensor can tell. I have not found a work around for this yet so may have to buy new shafts and put them back
@richstarbuck43153 жыл бұрын
I did find a work around by mounting the knock sensor high on the engine mount
@joshlewellen90762 жыл бұрын
@@richstarbuck4315 is it still running good?
@richardstarbuck52082 жыл бұрын
@@joshlewellen9076 Yes, it has a little more vibration, but cannot be felt while driving, only at idle
@ceoink39367 ай бұрын
@@richstarbuck4315where did u install the knock sensor
@wagonkit3 жыл бұрын
Can you remove the balance shafts with the motor in the car, without messing with the crankshaft? Leaving the gear on the crank?
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
I didn’t do it that way because I removed the ring gear and had the rotating assembly all rebalance without the balance shafts in. Plus I did this same time I rebuilt my engine. Now can you remove this I believe so but that’s a lot of work to do it in the car. Much easier on an engine stand. Plus I don’t know how it would run without being rebalance again and the ring gear still on.
@wagonkit3 жыл бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 but is it possible? Without any problems?
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
Ok so lets go though this. You need to remove the following 1. Valve cover 2. Passenger side motor mount 3. Timing cover 4. S pipe 5. Oil pan 6. Oil pump 7. Oil pump chain 8. Now you should be able to remove the cover for the gears as well as the gears and bearings.
@wagonkit3 жыл бұрын
@@funkyphil1974 ahh. I see. So possible, but not quite as simple as I had imagined. I guess my question remains, how does the engine perform without the balance shafts? The same? Any more responsive? Thanks for the quick replies
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
My car is boosted and without my balance shafts I am quickly able to rev up faster creating boost. But there is a noticeable shake at idle and it is highly recommended that you purchase an ATI super damper to replace your oem hermonic balance pulley.
@srhabb3 жыл бұрын
You should be good. If you followed TIS you should not have an issue.
@bertsbug3 жыл бұрын
I bet that's the spot it was leaking before too!!!!
@aaromon433 жыл бұрын
did you install the turbo kit yourself?
@funkyphil19743 жыл бұрын
Yes I did it wasn’t as hard as I thought.
@bertsbug3 жыл бұрын
Yay it's going again. Few more weeks and it's going to be silly quick
@clydeschultz80014 жыл бұрын
Cool channel, about to check out some more of your videos! This deserves way more views, I’d recommend using SMZeus . c o m to increase your social proof.
@TrailsOfDoom4 жыл бұрын
Good job!
@CrisKG1254 жыл бұрын
Awesome.
@bertsbug4 жыл бұрын
Lol that's the best video I ever saw on KZread definitely subscribing
@seleldjdfmn2214 жыл бұрын
Amazing Content. the World should be a place of love! Enjoy your day xd
Пікірлер
I don't think the balance shaft being removed is causing your engine to vibrate that much. I have mine removed on the same 2azfe toyota engine as yours and it runs very smooth at all rpms. However I also removed the balance shaft housing and blocked off the oil feed hole to it. Since you have the engine out already you should check the condition of the rod bearings.
Still running okay without the balance shafts? i ask because my Balance Shafts spun the bearings and wore into the upper oil pan. So i'm considering a balance shaft delete option.
Hey, how’s it going? Yes, I’m still running perfectly fine without the balance shaft It’s been about s 4 years and it’s been running great. There is a slight vibration at idle otherwise everything is perfectly fine.
What happened? Did you find out?
Why would you need to remove the thing off of the crank at all if deleting the balance shafts? Itll just be doing nothing..
To keep the oil pressure the same, can you just press out the black plastic rear on the two-gear balance shaft and put it back? This way will disconnect the balance shafts from the crank shaft and oil pressure remained unchanged.
Great info! I do have one question do you need to re-install the housing that holds the balance shafts?
I did only because why not however I don’t see any reason you have too. Thanks and Happy Holidays my friend
@funkyphil1974 Thanks man! Yah makes sense to install it add a little extra strength but I was thinking about leaving it out for the little extra oil capacity. Happy holidays man!
Whe. I don't mine with the light light pulleys I'm leaving the case out. That's a good bit of weight reduction.
How much boost were you running?
wow
I’m having the same issue
My issue was the axle joint was popping out of the knuckle, I pulled the axle back out reseated it and put a new boot on. wasn't that bad of a job..
When u take the gare from the shaft did you take it to any machine shop
Well I removed the gear myself with heat and brass hammer with a few taps. But yes the entire rotating assembly went to be balanced at the machine shop..
Is it a must to do all that
What If I just move the balance shafts and block the hold can it work like that
You took out the entire engine ? Sounds like a long project
Yes much faster to pull the entire engine and transmission all together then fight with what little space you have to wiggle out the transmission. For me it only takes me 3.5 hours to pull both. I pull the axles disconnect the spipe and remove the rear motor mount bolt. Then I sit back down on all 4 wheels and work in the engine bay where I just unplug the wiring harness from both the ecu and fuse box lay it on the top of the engine. Remove the battery next. Then I disconnect the fuel line set it aside. Drain the radiator pull it up and out. Basically by. Now it’s time to attach the engine hoist and remove remaining engine mount bolts. Now I start to lift it up and can gain access to back of the engine where I remove the bolts holding the intake manifold on and get it out of the way, also I have room now to disconnect the power steering pump line leaving the pump still attached. Much easier and faster to leave it attached and just re bleed it once back in again. Now keep lifting it up and backing it out of the engine bay and onto my garage. I have done it both ways but I find it to be faster this way since I don’t own a lift. Working on my back in a driveway doesn’t leave a lot of room to get out the transmission. I will take 3.5 hours and a few extra steps to pull both plus gives me chance to look over the engine if need be. Thanks for your comment
So what happens if I don't block off the oil feed?
Oil pressure goes to 0 and engine go boom.
Just like solarastuff said it will allow oil to drop into the crankcase instead of spraying it with pressure, this will cause low to no oil pressure..
@@funkyphil1974 ty, I had a good mechanic do the mod. He blocked it off, car has been running well for over 5k miles. Thanks!
@@chrismemphis8062 still running okay? i ask because my balance shafts spun the bearings and wore into the upper engine pan. i don't want to replace the upper pan, so i'm considering the Balance Shaft delete option.
@@MercurySaturn yeah, probably 8k miles since I took them out and plugged the oil passage. It sounds a bit rough w/o it, but not terrible.
??????
Looks like 00000010 would be cylinder 2 then. 1 in the place where a digit is the cylinder that mis-fires. So second digit place = cylinder 2
I bought a 2006 TC in 11/2005. Dogged it every step of the 120,000 miles of its life. Got a good ole clanking when the engine starts up. I am most certain it has spun a rod bearing. There is a kit on ebay that has an "upgraded piston" set that has more holes machined in the ring land. It is supposed to have the piston pin changed to accommodate for any head and block resurfacing. Did you use a kit similar to that? I figure my worst cost will be the crankshaft, but they have those new on ebay for $250, so I'm not sweating that. Have you ever taken the balance shafts out of a 2.4L? I hear it will make more power but run rougher. Question is how rough is rough. Also have you heard of any pinpointed reason that the rod bearings might be getting hit hard in the TC, other than low oil? I know for a fact mine has never ran low, and until a year ago had only 3000 mile or less oil changes. But I am hard on her with the 5sp. manual. 17 years of service from her for the $15000 out the door I paid for it; I cannot complain one bit for having to spend $1000 on her this late in the game. Namely the only thing I have ever put on it mechanically was the rear calipers and pads all the way around twice. (Ran 225/30/20's for years) Caliper on the rear got stuck. I am preparing to open the engine up this week just to peek at the crank. If there is any machining to be done to the crank, I'm just going with a new crank; even for 1 rod journal. It has such a bad clack on the first 3 revolutions that the bearing must have left the building. Already have a clutch on deck, with release bearing. Do you find it necessary to replace the pressure plate with a standard replacement clutch, or just because you went with a higher performance clutch? I went with what the website said was a stage 3 street clutch, so I don't suppose that it is super high performance or anything. But the stock clutch that is in it now has always slipped some when the temperature is 30 degrees or below. Thanks for your time man. I have rebuilt several other engines in the past, just curious about your feedback of parts you have used before in your rebuilds of the 2.4L. Also have you ever seen a 2.4L with the Brian Crower 2.6L stroker kit? It is hard to want to pay for a $3800 crank kit and have the website hoodoo me. There was a Scion specialty performance shop in Kentucky back in 2006-2010 or so, and they sold all kinds of awesome parts, even machined them in house. Then it came out they had started scamming peoples credit cards for over a year and packed up shop and left out; owing some people $50,000 of parts. Heck they really sold Stage 1, 2 and stage 3 heads, multiple grinds of cams as well as upgraded 11:1 or 8:1 pistons, with multiple selection of rod lengths. It's too bad people find it more profitable to cheat people than to sell an awesome product.
Man I missed this comment my bad. I am sure you have probably built up your engine by now. I have seen the BC stroker kit but truth be told I think that is wasteful. Yes you will make more power but building the engine with new rods pistons and bearings as well as arp head bolts will really be the difference because now you can toss a turbo on it and the amount of power is going to be amazing. Balance shaft removal is fine I have do it and yes it spins up faster allowing me to spool up the turbo faster. There is lil vibration at idle but I also have solid motor mounts but all in all not horrible. The company you are referring to I believe is Dezod and yes they did end up closing doors and folks had hard time getting their cash back. The owner had medical issues I believe heart attack and stroke leaving him bed rest his brother tried to run the business for him until he got better but didn’t do good and the company ended up closing. At least that’s what I heard. Again sorry for the late reply but thanks for reaching out. I like to see your build if you still have it.
I would be better for the planet to remove this useless video from KZread. No words explaining anything . Horrible loud music doesn’t allow to hear the clutch noise if any.
I would like to share some images of a 2AZFE engine that I have to repair, I was struck by a video that you posted where you remove the balance shafts. Could you give me your e-mail?
It really seems somewhat daring but ingenious ..
So your saying it works well
Do you think it is better to leave the drive gear of the balancers that goes on the crankshaft? there will be no imbalance problems?
my understanding is if you remove the gear off of the crankshaft you will need to get it rebalanced. ( if you take apart the engine to rebuild you will do that anyway) but lets say if they balanced the cranckshaft with the gear on you can leave it and just remove the balance shaft and plug the hole
The guys on Rav4 world break the gear off.
I understand that it accelerates very well but that at idle it presents vibration, therefore it is necessary to replace the damper puleys with one of better performance, right?
There is lil vibration I just replaced my hermonic balancer with hp AIT one. I been on this setup for 9 years no issues!! And I am boosted making 350hp. So it works great for me.
I would like to know if after eliminating the 2 balance shafts the engine worked correctly? no vibrations?
Good vibrations..
What size tap did you use?
Irwin Hanson High Carbon Steel Metric Plug Tap 10mm-1.00 1 pc
@@funkyphil1974 I used 6mm tap and set screw. We'll see if it works tomorrow 🤞
@@timsouttahere as long as it’s tight it should be good. I also used lil sealant.
@@funkyphil1974 I used red loctite
@@timsouttahere me too!
Appuppan poliyanu
does that has a pilot bearing? i have an 08 tc and i dont know if need it.
No Pilot bearing on the first Gen.
@@funkyphil1974 thks man been struggling with that manual swap.
@@Heavonix no worries if I can help just ask. I know these engines pretty well and rebuilt them more than a few times. Plus boosted mine.
@@funkyphil1974 will do thks man.
sorry to bother you again man, can i use the same axles even if i swap the transmision to a manual?
helal len şebek
What transmission? EB60 6 speed? Any modifications, or problems with the original?
Hi my car is an 2006 Scion TC with the stock E350 manual transmission. It’s a 5 speed.
@@funkyphil1974 OK, thanks Phil.
Worst vid i ever watched
Did you tune the car after turbo install ?
Yes I did
How ya like your stage 4
I love it took about a week to get use to it but it grabs and goes now no slipping. It’s good to note that I just resurfaced the oem flywheel no need to buy another if there isn’t any issues.
You can't learn if you don't fall. I'm jealous I'm 51 just starting to get back into flatland riding again but I'm finding it
Wake up, wake up, it’s the first of tha month. So what’s wrong with the clutch?
My scion has started rattling when i lightly step on the accelerator at high speeds. And also it kinda knocks when deceletating :( any help or suggestions?
By rattling do you mean the dashboard is rattling because the engine is knocking or misfiring causing it to jump around the engine bay? And do you mean knocking as in an audible crankshaft knock? If so, you likely have to replace the motor. Side note: if you're going speeds over 100mph, don't do that.
Hey my motor has been making this sound since I started using stantanelo's pistons.
This is great info I’ve been looking for it , my motor is already fully built but do you think i can delete just the balance shaft and not need to take the motor out and balance ,
I was wondering the same.
Yes you can but you must be careful to clean all metal shavings from tapping the oil plug.
I think it's easier to tap the lower housing part.
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Craziness my car is leaking from this point too... I subbed, think I can learn much from you!!
Damn... this is what mine's doing right now... what causes this??
Mines doing the same did you find out what's the cause
You might need a new Valve cover or a new head gasket both under 150 bucks
As typical, I'll be rebuilding my engine in my 08 tC here soon and I'm only doing this shit once if I have my way lol. Replacing all internals, machine shop etc and deleting these shafts. Question is, how does it affect driving/vibration etc, timing, ECU etc?? Any troubles you've experienced?? Did you have retune ECU?? Sorry so many questions but I've only been working on cars for a year now and my tc is both my baby and my only car at this time (will be dropping in used temp engine during rebuild of mine.) Any info helps and thank you for the vid & assistance, helps a ton!!
I removed mine and the knock sensor code keeps coming back and then won't let the transmission shift to overdrive. It doesn't seem to be that much vibration but evidently the knock sensor can tell. I have not found a work around for this yet so may have to buy new shafts and put them back
I did find a work around by mounting the knock sensor high on the engine mount
@@richstarbuck4315 is it still running good?
@@joshlewellen9076 Yes, it has a little more vibration, but cannot be felt while driving, only at idle
@@richstarbuck4315where did u install the knock sensor
Can you remove the balance shafts with the motor in the car, without messing with the crankshaft? Leaving the gear on the crank?
I didn’t do it that way because I removed the ring gear and had the rotating assembly all rebalance without the balance shafts in. Plus I did this same time I rebuilt my engine. Now can you remove this I believe so but that’s a lot of work to do it in the car. Much easier on an engine stand. Plus I don’t know how it would run without being rebalance again and the ring gear still on.
@@funkyphil1974 but is it possible? Without any problems?
Ok so lets go though this. You need to remove the following 1. Valve cover 2. Passenger side motor mount 3. Timing cover 4. S pipe 5. Oil pan 6. Oil pump 7. Oil pump chain 8. Now you should be able to remove the cover for the gears as well as the gears and bearings.
@@funkyphil1974 ahh. I see. So possible, but not quite as simple as I had imagined. I guess my question remains, how does the engine perform without the balance shafts? The same? Any more responsive? Thanks for the quick replies
My car is boosted and without my balance shafts I am quickly able to rev up faster creating boost. But there is a noticeable shake at idle and it is highly recommended that you purchase an ATI super damper to replace your oem hermonic balance pulley.
You should be good. If you followed TIS you should not have an issue.
I bet that's the spot it was leaking before too!!!!
did you install the turbo kit yourself?
Yes I did it wasn’t as hard as I thought.
Yay it's going again. Few more weeks and it's going to be silly quick
Cool channel, about to check out some more of your videos! This deserves way more views, I’d recommend using SMZeus . c o m to increase your social proof.
Good job!
Awesome.
Lol that's the best video I ever saw on KZread definitely subscribing
Amazing Content. the World should be a place of love! Enjoy your day xd
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