Welcome to the channel! Here at BigTallTim we are all about Cars, Guitars, and the occasional Steamy Danger Toy!
With a keen interest in encouraging DIY mechanics and a lifetime of tips and tricks to share, there is something here for everyone... Welcome aboard!
BTT
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Hola. He cambiado las zapatas nuevas y en la zona de las zapatas en la rueda no hay dorma de poder ajustar mas y desde dentro del coche lo he ajustado al maximo y el freno llega al final del recorrido y no sujeta el coche. Que puede der?
Is not working .I try many times
Check for other trouble codes - it is most likely that you have an abs issue, or the fluid level is low… the yellow light does more than just lost callibration
I have a 2013 Tiguan. Live in Florida, so not cold. Purchased it used about 6 months ago, with around 160K miles. In the recent 3-4 weeks, I have experiencing where the power steering does not engage “sometimes” when I START the car. It seems to happen after I drive the car for 20+ minutes, arrive at destination, and turn off the car, where subsequently upon starting the car “shortly” within 1-30 minutes, the power steering goes out/away and eventually the power steering light turns on. I phrased it this way, because the red power steering light does not always immediately turn on when the power steering is out. I have tested the battery with my multimeter and it shows 12.5V with the car off, and 13.9V when idling. So, I guess I can eliminate the alternator as a problem. The fuses have been checked. Because it has been intermittent, it just doesn't seem to indicate a problem with the steering column. No other indicator lights are on. I am looking for an OBD sensor that will work with my VW Tiguan, so no codes yet.
Ok… you’ve got me intrigued! Weird set of symptoms, so I usually open with looking for electrical gremlins… maybe not condensation from cold, but have you driven through any water recently?
Why did you re use the old broken clip lol ??? They're like 5 quid for 6 of them.
It is the right question! It was Sunday, and I didn’t have any in stock - replaced with new ones off camera
Hi mate I have just got a xc90 with a bad foot brake this video was very helpful thanks very much
You are very welcome - an easy job once you’ve seen it done… just take your time, and let us know how it goes!
You are very welcome - an easy job once you’ve seen it done… just take your time, and let us know how it goes!
@@bigtalltim hi Tim I striped the brakes down today and loosened the adjuster I have also ordered some new shoes hopefully this will fix the hand brake
@damstv8717 if the cable is moving freely in the plastic sleeve, it really is that simple!… just remember to use it, or it will be just the same in a couple of years…
По замене и регулеровке ручного тормоза подробнее видео я ещё не видел.
I believe that this is still the only one on youtube that shows the entire process!
What happens if you get the red steering wheel like I did. From nothing to red wheel. Can't turn the wheel to calibrate and the battery is fine. Getting a DTC_00569 code. What are your thoughts on that. Thanks.
Great question… ok - 2 things. You say your battery is fine, but if it has a cell that is just about ok for now, but on the way out, the load under starting may be enough to tip the balance. Get it professionally tested - that’s the obvious one. On the error code, that relates to steering motor current. The rack itself rarely goes wrong on these cars, so it is probably the harness or “loom” - maybe a bad connector, that is further affected by morning condensation… I’d recommend going through the connectors one by one with some contact cleaner… if I was a betting man, I’d put my cash on it being the battery though
@@bigtalltim Thanks so much for your reply. I did get the battery tested, they said it was ok. I checked what I could re the power assist plug and wires coming in and out of them. I spoke to two mechanics, both of them said it was likely the steering rack, although as you said, these racks seldomly fail. My Mk5 has only done 142,000 k's. I'll ask the mechanics to test connectors and loom before doing the rack and hope that this is the issue. Thanks again for getting back to me. Much appreciated. PS:, The red wheel warning light came on two weeks ago. It was taken to a service centre. They said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. They could see the error code in the log, but the problem had seemingly fixed itself. I drove the car for another one and a half weeks with no issues whatsoever. That would suggest that, as you say, it's not the steering rack, and more likely to be electrical? Aside from that and what you have mentioned, is there anything you think I need to say to the mechanic? Thanks again, I just subscribed!
@joshjoshspangler Hi - no worries! A side question: have you driven through any deep water? (Again, this would point towards electrical if so…) Regarding talking to a mechanic about it, just keep to the known issues and hard facts and don’t be offended if the mechanic takes it with a pinch of salt! it is always easier to run with the symptoms and facts and methodically work through the troubleshooting list double checking everything that has been “ruled out” by someone else anyway. That said… The racks *are* pretty much bullet proof, and the job is super easy so if they come in with a quote for more than a couple of hours, they either don’t know VWs or they are being overly cautious - neither of which would fill me with confidence! Tell them you’d prefer a reconditioned rack to save the cost of a brand new unit too - they so rarely go wrong that it’s a pretty safe bet. Good luck!
@@bigtalltim Hello Thank you again! No, I haven't driven through any water and the car is parked in a garage every night so morning condensation is not a problem. Plugs/connectors look clean and dry. Battery has a built in "Good, not so good and replace" gauge which is in the green. Having said that I've put the trickle charger on it just to completely rule out the battery as the problem. Fuse box and connections are corrosion free, dry and tight. I'm going to have to flat bed it into a mechanic so I'll let you know what they find. Thank you so much for your advice and getting back to me. Amazing. :-)
@joshjoshspangler my pleasure! By the way - the thing with batteries is that one cell of the bank of cells that make up the battery (there is usually 6 each of which produces 2.1v at full charge) can be on its way out, but still have enough juice to report that the battery is healthy (over 12v)… the issues come when that same battery is under really heavy load - like when it is turning the starter motor; at that point the voltage can drop to a level that causes electrical gremlins - I’d be really interested to know what they find!
Why don't they just label a cap's leads like on a battery? I think they enjoy torturing us. There is so much voodoo with guitars.
That is the right question! I guess for most applications it wouldn’t matter… but with amplification in the frame, we discover a problem that wasn’t considered by the manufacturer
Hi. I have a VW Sharan 2011. I got a red light for the steering system and after more check I had to replace it. But after 1 week and almost 1500 km, the red light is back. Which could be the problem? I don’t get it.
Hi - red lights are very different… a lot more serious - something has failed. Definitely get that checked - if I had to guess, possibly a fluid leak caused by the job a week ago?
@@bigtalltim I don’t know exactly. Also, just few days before it cracks, we had some very bad weather and the car went a little through water. It were some floods but not so big. Anyway, after that the red light for the steering system came on and in just 30 minutes the flywheel cracked also. So Idk if all these events are related. Anyway, we replaced the steering system, the clutch with the flywheel, we went into a small vacation whete we drove almost 1500 km. Now, it is back the red light for the steering system and I really don t know why.
I would take it back to the place that fixed the clutch and flywheel… many years ago I had a Sharan, and I seem to recall that the hydraulic fluid for the power steering also does the clutch… could well be related
What if the staring is hart to turn n it showing that staring light?
Great question… as likely as not, your fluid level is low - check the dip stick built into the reservoir lid
You crafty bastard 👏👏👏👏
Sloth is the mother of invention - truth be told, I couldn’t be bothered to take the wheels off to push them through from the back! 😇
Very good explanation
Cheers! I couldn’t find anything else out there that covered the centre console and cable bit, so figured it was worth taking the time; my guess is that most folks doing this job are against the clock for an annual inspection so it never makes the cut! Thanks for watching!
thank you very much for taking so much time and explaining it so schematically. it really helped me to finally see through it
You are very welcome - I didn’t really get it the first time I wired one of these from a diagram either, and I ended up drawing it on paper to work it out - curiosity got the better of me! Really glad it was useful, and thanks for watching!
It works great man❤✊🏾
Good to hear - and thanks for watching!
Best Step by Step Guide for a Successful Repair of my Golf 5 3-Door; a little bit more Time for my job; but it works! Thanks a lot! One Day Delivery by Amazon Germany for the Spare Part (about 40 Euros). Amazing 😊
Good stuff - always great to hear that the vids are useful! Thanks for watching!
Well Done
Cheers - a nice easy job if you take your time! Thanks for watching
Hi , I have recently changed my starter motor in which the battery has been disconnected to do so.. Since connecting back up I have amber steering light same as yours, but also my power steering isn’t there, very heavy.. I do have Rear right wheel speed sensor down, Could this really be the reason my steering won’t ‘reset’ and continues to have no power steering and shows light ? Cheers
Great question and a definite yes! If any of the sensors are lying to the ECU about the speed it can invalidate the procedure
thanks mate
No worries - thanks for watching!
Amen
My 09 gli does this but comes on and off. Is it cuz of my bad battery ?
Yep - could well be it! There are a few other things that could cause it, but a drop in voltage is probably the most common
I had an injector leak on my 2011 Kuga that melted the cover like this video. Car was running fine until i had someone sort the leak. Now when you get up to speed it starts to judder violently. I have had it at a local Ford dealer for weeks now but they are saying its an injector loom problem which are no longer available. I even had a local Auto mechanic come to look but he didn't seem very interested. Any ideas of my next move? We love the car and dont want to scrap it as its still got miles in it.
I had the injectors tested as well and they all past but NO.4 only just. so do you think it might be worth changing that injector?
Great question… it’s a weird symptom - my first thought was fuel starvation but then I read your comment again and you say it judders when up to speed… is it possible that the 2 things are not connected? My first thought with any kind of judder is that one of the wheels has lost a lead weight and is imbalanced - something that might not be noticeable at slower speeds, but very troubling at motorway speeds for instance! On the injectors, it just sounds like they are blocked to be honest - worth getting a second opinion on them from an independent garage. I suspect that the ford dealer just doesn’t want to do the job, and that their approach to gummed up connectors is to rip out the old one and replace rather than get a can of carb cleaner as I did in this video… the ones you have are probably fine - just dirty and inconvenient for the dealership mechanic who will be very happy to spend your money in order to make their life easier!!!injectors rarely go wrong so I don’t think loading the parts cannon is the solution… have you tried an injector cleaning fuel additive? If they are gunked up they might not be diffusing the fuel properly which could lead to some irregular running - usually more noticeable on tickover though. There are companies that specialise in injector cleaning too - definitely get a second opinion! (And get your wheel balance checked… that is a cheap first step!)
A bit of time since you did this but can you remember if there was a gasket between the egr and the corrugated pipe which is connected with 2 bolts, ? everyone misses that in their videos because the second bolt on the flange is such a swine to get out, when i eventually undid mine there was no gasket, Thanks Ted.
Hi Ted - it has been a while, but no… there is not a gasket as such; I think you are supposed to give it a smear of exhaust assembley paste on refitting - the exhaust equivalent of a liquid gasket
@@bigtalltim Thanks so much for getting back on this, now I know that I’ll get some liquid gasket. Kind Regards. Ted
@tedstewart114 no worries - liquid gasket won’t handle the heat… they are mostly silicone based. It needs to be exhaust assembley paste - easy to find in any good motor factor
@@bigtalltim Ok, ill go for exhaust liquid gasket, Thanks Ted
Hey there I got a question I was wondering if you have another way to reach out to you it’s refer to a issue with my Volvo xc90 2014 I found your page and I see you know a lot about them!
Hi! I like to keep things on the channel so that it can help other people as well and don’t use other socials etc… what’s the issue - I should at least be able to recommend a starting point for your investigation!
@@bigtalltim I have actually two issues at the moment one of them is related with my a/c the clutch engages and you could heart when it clicks and then no air coming out from the vents and that happens out of the no where and sometimes works just fine still can’t find what the problem might be/ the other problem that just happened it’s the ABS/anti-skid service required like I said I own a Volvo xc90 2014.
@israelmonroy9125 ok… do you have any diagnostic trouble codes? There are so many electronic things that can go wrong it is nearly impossible to know without interrogating the ECU… on the air flow, do you ever have good air flow, or is it always low? With that, the cabin air filter is my best guess - they get blocked over time and that actively prevents air from flowing through the vents… if it is an issue that only happens when the ac is on auto, that would suggest one of the temperature sensors but a code reader would spell it out
@@bigtalltim carry my suv to the mechanic he said the abs and skid have to do something with the abs module pump and with the a/c the blower motor
Hmm… ok - a question: does the skid message come and go? Sometime it shows up, other times not? My first suspect there is the yaw sensor under the right hand front seat, but if your mechanic has found an error code it may be something else… I note that he went straight for one of the most expensive parts in the system though which always raises an eyebrow for me! Again, the fan is expensive and difficult to replace, but the pollen filter (cabin air filter) in these is known for getting blocked and will reduce the air flow to a whisper. If the fan runs at all, it probably isn’t that! I need to change my cabin air filter for similar reasons so will do a vid on that shortly… in the meantime, it is worth investing in a code reader for your car - the engine control unit will remember exactly what it was that went wrong and spell out what the issue is - you don’t need a full computer to read the codes!
It worked!! Thank you, you are a genius!! ❤
You're welcome! 😊 and thank you for watching!
Absolutely astonishing!! Some craftsman you are BTT. Blown away!!
Tis a lovely hunk of wood! I just scraped away all the bits that weren’t a lap steel 🤷♂️
Legend has it that those harmonics are still ringing...
😂 true story!
Very good presentation. Found it really helpful thanks
Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated! Really glad it was handy, and thank you for watching!
Nice one BTT! Best wishes from the Belfast Castlereagh hills.
Same to you Tom!
Wow!
And that, kids, is how we did air con in the olden days!
Class!
The first time I put my own 2003 XC90 through the MoT one of the things it failed on was a leaky rear shock absorber. To my knowledge, all UK XC90s had the self levelling Nivomats on the rear which are only available from the dealer at about £300 each as there is no aftermarket equivalent. I ended up getting standard rear shock absorbers and matching springs. I couldn't reuse the Nivomat springs because they have to be matched to the shock absorbers. I was struggling to fit them so I turned the job over to my mechanic to help secure the MoT pass.
Sometimes getting a pro on the case is the only option… I don’t mind it as long as they price fairly and don’t rip me off! Certainly for the later generations the self levelling nivomats were standard, but when mine was released (2003 build first registered in 2004) I believe that they were an option… either way, at least they are easy to replace!! As an aside, if you do a nivomat to standard comversion, I believe that you also have to change the springs… thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching!
Most ABS problems are either the sensor or the sensor ring. I recently had the ABS light on my own 2003 XC90 come on and the error codes pointed towards the front right sensor. I changed the sensor ring (just shy of a tenner from GSF) and got sidetracked by a small tear in the outer CV boot which was leaking grease. The new ring didn't fix the problem but it was still worth doing and finding the torn CV boot was a blessing in disguise. I fiited a new sensor (£36 from a local motor factor) and the problem was fixed. This has been documented on my own channel.
thanks. No "super easy" editing, just doing the job in almost the real time it takes to fix a problem like this. Will do the job and follow along soon
Cheers! I always try to show the process “warts and all”… have always believed that it is the best way to show the tricks tips and workarounds for the problems you are likely to hit along the way - all the stuff we used to have to learn in an apprenticeship; Bit of a running theme on this channel. Thanks for watching!
@@bigtalltim my pleasure, and it was a huge a relief to fix the bloody window. It had stuck half way up. Had to plan my driving if the weather allowed 😂
brilliant, thanks. going to do this tonight but the offside!
Should be the exact same process - good luck!
Nice tip
Cheers - my next vid is of a forced dpf regen in exactly this spot!
hey mate, do you think i need to replace my regulator? the window motor sounds like it is really struggling, the window wont go up, but it will go down. i cannot force it up. mechanic said it might be a cog in the motor (?) or the regulator "belt has slipped off" - what do you think?
Hi Jay - couple of things… it sounds for sure like the motor is on the way out, and that is more likely the brushes than a busted cog, but that is a different job. I think your big enemy here though is friction. You can help the motor out by reducing friction in the slides that hold the glass in place - it could be that crap has just built up in them over the years, and whilst it was nice and slippery over the damp winter months, it has dried out now and is hampering the winding. You’d need to experiment with lubricants, but silicone would be a fairly safe starting point. I’d open with using a toothbrush to clean the guides, then a cotton bud to apply some lube to the slots… you will be able to see if that has an effect without taking the door skin off, and then finish the job if it has a beneficial effect! good luck - let us know how it goes!
@@bigtalltim hey man, the motor seems fine! i got the door skins off today, and removed the regulator - so i can put my window up. i will tomorrow buy some regulators and try and replace the two rear ones that have the issues. the only issue i had was getting the handle off, and getting it back on (i cant get the retaining screw to line up on the handle). looks like im going to have to do it all over again anyway to change the locks too.. theyre both not locking properly. also, the handle sits a bit soggy now.. i will try to fix that tomorrow by holding it out and redoing that t20 screw out and back in
@@bigtalltim also the reason the window wouldnt go up was due to the regulator wire binding on itself and falling out.. it would not budge!
@jaywalker7622 cool - if something doesn’t line up, double check the bottom corner of the door skin… if it is under rather than over you can get that effect - take your time, and if something needs to be forced, don’t!! Everything should line up perfectly - re the doors, make sure you mark the plastic tag position before removing it from the handle mechanism… they are surprisingly sensitive to changes! Good luck!
@@bigtalltim cheers,it probably is a matter of under rather than over, i think all of them are under in fact lol
Hi, didn’t catch that- did you mean that it doesn’t dry? Like it would be wipeable to remove? Or does it harden?
Great question - I wasn’t clear enough there… it skins over, and the surface dries - it won’t be affected by pressure washers and so on, but it doesn’t dry to be brittle all the way through, so won’t crack with stone chips etc… it stays more rubbery inside to protect the surface from chips which would let in salt and so on. Hope that helps!
I was a bit suspicious of the 1.5 value, so I did a test on 10, 12, 19, and 22mm rods. I used a dial gauge to measure the eccentricity. A much better value is 1.35mm for a 1mm spacer. No significant difference between the rod diameters. Tested on a 5inch 3jaw chuck.
Fair play! Every day is a school day, and thank you for doing that - very much appreciated!
Wow! - Looks amazing!
Will look like a different car with the full coat of matte black - well… as different as it can… it’ll still be an ancient micra! 😂
Brilliant video, exactly what I had after changing the battery. Keep posting the videos you just saved me a probably expensive trip to the dealership 👍👍👍👍👍
Great to hear and thanks for the feedback… and yes - the dealership would have plugged you into their computer (typically about 90 quid) charged an hour for investigation (another 60 quid plus VAT) and then done the exact same thing!!
I have the same questions as several other people but the replies aren't showing up in the comments. I wanted to know if it needs to be refined linseed oil or will boiled work. How long does this treatment last?
Hi - Not sure why the previous answers aren't showing... weird! Anyway, it will last as long as the plastic did originally before fading - this restores the plastic by replacing the oil in the surface layer that dries out in the sun... It doesnt just cover up the sun damage with a coloured wax. I cant recommend anything other than the refined linseed oil simply because I havent tried it, but there is a risk that it will not dry out. As always, if you are going to try it, go with an inconspicuous area first (inside the bumper for instance)... there is every chance it will work - just might stay slightly sticky, which wouldnt be good with road dust etc! Let us know how it goes!! (and thanks for watching - I'll get on to YT to find out what is going on with those replies!)
@bigtalltim Thank you for your reply. I just checked and now the other people's replies are showing! 👏
Found this video extremely useful 👌 helped me out massively dude , so thank you 🙏😊
Great to hear it was useful - and thank you for watching!
Like new
lol - I wouldn’t go that far! 😂 not bad for 23 years though!
Bolt Gravity!!
He was determined to escape that one!
Great video Tim!!
Cheers as always - much appreciated!
Jig? - It's deffo past the t-cut phase!! ;-)
Yeah... shame - it was a nice motor, but it did it's job well, and they all walked away unharmed!
About to do this job, thanks for the guide! Though I'm not sure my small car jack will work. Out of interest what jack are you using? Also what cordless impact are you using? I'm going to have to upgrade to something a bit more substantial.
Hi! I have 2 trolley jacks - a low profile 3 tonne and a standard 2 tonne (the orange one). Both from halfords - nothing special... The cordless impact is an Erbaur - the kingfisher group "one battery fits all" range standard half inch drive; Available from screwfix - I have been very happy with it! I have an airline one also, but it doesn't get much use these days!!
@@bigtalltim amazing thanks buddy 👌
Would this be the same location as a 2008 3.2L XC90?
Hi Adam - no… as I recall you will find yours at the bottom end of the intake manifold… right next to the electronic throttle module… thanks for watching!
Love the video. Bought a valvestate for 70 dollars when i was 15 and have been loving it ever since. Very helpful video
Thankyou - always great to hear that the vids are useful! There’s all sorts on this channel - I really should do more guitar stuff!