Another common problem you may notice with this oven (especially after cleaning) is thhe elements may not heat. There is a little black bubble inside, on side close to back. This bubble thermostat needs to be wiped clean with soft cloth or paper towel.
@bretbradbury55592 ай бұрын
I wanted to add an update to this video. I never closed in the circuit to add the lead acid batteries into the battery circuit for this golf cart because it would also create a high current charge for the Dakota digital batteries which could cause damage to them. Instead I'm going to have to open up the Dakota digital battery circuit before closing the switch for the lead acid battery string.
@dhangejr2 ай бұрын
so im beter off with stock rockers with needle bearings? or maybe aftermarket with larger needle bearings?
@bretbradbury55592 ай бұрын
The issue isn't with the size of the needle bearings and there's only a certain amount of space between the trunnion body and rocker. This trouble is caused by the lack of quality metal used in the trunnion bodies. I've seen various manufacturers polish the surfaces to a high luster without any gains in reliability. It doesn't matter if it's bushings or bearings. The result has always been the same. At least the CHE bushings aren't pressed in so it won't wear in the same place every time. It also lowers the MOI of the rocker for better high RPM stability. The hardness of the surface of the trunnions is the issue. Brian Tooley might have solved this with his latest rocker design. He added some super hard sleeves to the ends of the trunnions which is a brilliant idea for cost savings but effectiveness.
@flatlandswelding12402 ай бұрын
I have been tossing the idea of buying a premier plasma when I return from my deployment. I have ran a couple of them that have the Linux cnc system on them. Was curious how much something like that would cost because I like the way it operated. Also for construction wise would you consider premier to be a good unit. The ones Ive ran in the past had servo motors instead of steppers. Also I already have an Everlast 82i that I was wanting to put on a table. Just curious on what your outlook is on these few topics. Thankyou and that was a great video look forward to seeing more.
@bretbradbury55592 ай бұрын
I modded the table a lot, even more beyond this video. I offset the gantry rearward using some 5/16" steel plate which allowed me to use more of the table surface than before. I wish the pans were constructed from stainless. I would have been more than willing to pay for the additional cost because of how much these corrode. I've been using cutting fluid ever since but it still rusts and it frustrates me to no end. I also need to come up with a way to take up the play in the gears so that it'll cut better circles. I will say that the owner of Premier has always been helpful and nice. If you do get this table, I highly recommend getting some truck bed epoxy and coating the pan completely before using it. Make sure it's a two part epoxy. I've been VERY pleased with LinerXtreeme out of Houston TX. Hit me up when you reply and I'll give you my cell# in case I can be of any help with setting it up. Thanks for your service!
@fastestxrc91033 ай бұрын
Hey man I’m looking to do a terminator X on my 05 C6 can you share your wiring experience, I can contact you or you can contact me if you prefer Hit me up so we can exchange information thank you
@bretbradbury55593 ай бұрын
972-741-7457
@mynameistommyle4 ай бұрын
Had to do this again after a few years. Thanks again!
@vanessastahl1094 ай бұрын
I have fixed that switch/timer and door issue repeatedly and the same issue keeps reocuring. Any suggestions???
@bretbradbury55594 ай бұрын
The wheels are dying inside. They should have either insulated the oven better or used metal or at least a higher temp plastic such as PTFE. My name is Bret Bradbury. Look me up and message me on Facebook and maybe I can review a video to try and help
@charlotteechols30354 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for posting this. I just started having this problem. Your video was perfect in describing how the switch worked. I think I also need to replace the spring. Excited to take it apart and get to work.
@bretbradbury55594 ай бұрын
I'm so happy it helped. I need to take it apart again and repair the hinge assembly. I highly recommend while you have it apart that you add some good, high-temp insulation to the outside of the oven, under the cover it'll help it last much longer! Best wishes!
@charlotteechols30354 ай бұрын
Thanks for letting me know since this is the project for the weekend.
@toddsutton56725 ай бұрын
cant you do a mdi move like G0 y5. you must be able to calibrate it.
@user-bt4qj6yp5k5 ай бұрын
I bought four for my 48 volt. How are they now? I am disappointed with the $2500 I spent. I would love to talk and know your experience
@bretbradbury55594 ай бұрын
I won't lie one bit about it. I am not happy at all. The cart doesn't go far before at least one battery goes into low voltage protection, leaving the driver stranded completely. My wife and daughter drive this cart and it won't even go a mile before failing. I've had to tow it home 3 times to the point where they quit driving it because they didn't want to get stranded anymore. For as much money as I spent, it's quite ridiculous. I am a power tech with a degree in electronics, working for AT&T for the past 25'years, dealing with AC and DC power systems including battery maintenance. I installed everything with full integrity. With my original batteries in the golf cart I never had to do an equalization charge. With these lithium batteries simply trying to isolate and solve the problem, I have performed countless isolation/equalization charges on the individual batteries however it was in vain because it didn't help at all. Thinking that I might have an individual battery that is weak, going into low voltage protection I began documenting which battery was going into low-voltage shut down and it changed between two batteries out of the three. Speaking of low-voltage shut down, it is absolutely horrible. With the lead acid batteries, the cart would begin to slow down and you would know it's time to head home but with the golf cart on these Dakota batteries, it simply dies and you're either getting towed or pushing the damn thing home. While I do have a 400 amp controller on this golf cart, my wife and daughter don't go running around the neighborhood with the pedal on the floor they simply go cruising around the neighborhood at low speeds. Soon I hope to post up a video revealing what I consider to be the perfect solution for my mistaken purchase of these batteries. I think that anybody who's already made the purchase like I have will appreciate this relatively simple and inexpensive upgrade.
@kimbapuff5 ай бұрын
Thank you!!!!
@LaJuana5586 ай бұрын
Interesting. My Breville SAO just started cutting Off when it reaches preset temperature. A couple of weeks ago something happened to the door and there’s no spring to it. It will just fall open if you aren’t holding on to it. After seeing your video, I wonder if the two things are related. I’m 73 year old woman but pretty handy…maybe I’ll open it up and see what happens. One day when I have lots of time. LoL! Thanks for the hint!
@darrenfechner56136 ай бұрын
Just saw your video thanks for your help. im not in the industry just a hobbyist this will help set my machine up
@bretbradbury55596 ай бұрын
Great! I hope it helps!!
@glenbillups8 ай бұрын
Thanks!!! Saved me.
@noahriding57808 ай бұрын
How many hours can golf cart batteries be depleted for, before you get them charged again before they won't charge up as full as before?
@rickjames49148 ай бұрын
your camera work sucks my man, very aggravating. Very good content though, thank you.
@chiekamijo54529 ай бұрын
I have the same problem but I can't get the bottom screws to unscrew. what tool do you use?
@bretbradbury55599 ай бұрын
I'm assuming you're referring to the screws in the lower sides of the oven. The ones in the black plastic aren't removed if I recall correctly. The lower stainless screws are Torx 10 or 15. The least expensive to get a set is probably Harbor Freight.
@trevorconner4073 Жыл бұрын
I'm looking at the same set of 60ah dakota lithiums for my 36V cart, trying to decide between those or the Trojan lead acid (same set you took out of your cart) Im curious how they have compared in porformance? And range? Do you play golf with these batteries or use the cart for something else? Im concerned after talking with the manufacture that the 60ah batteries wont last 18 holes consistently in an EZGO with a 350 amp controller. Thanks!!
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Golf Carts are legal to drive in our neighborhood and so that's all that my golf cart is used for. I will say that all batteries like these have a low voltage cutoff therefore you get no warning when they're going to shut down. They don't simply begin to slow down to a crawl as they get low. I'm not sure if you're familiar with the inability of one battery to charge when others are fully charged. That occurs regardless of which battery you're using, lead or lithium. If you don't equalize charge your batteries, it causes early shutdown (decreases your range) since your range is only as good as the weakest battery in the string. I discovered that the charger for individual cells will drain a battery if it's connected to a battery and there's no AC input to the charger. My wife accidentally unplugged the charger while leaving it connected to one battery. As a result, the cart wouldn't even move. Once charged I can't tell you how far the cart will go but I know that my wife and daughter will drive it non stop for over an hour, around the neighborhood without issue. The cart is much more nimble because of losing the weight of the batteries.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
I also forgot to mention, you can also try a mix if you choose. You can run 3 12v conventional batteries in parallel with the Lithium batteries or you could place a switch on them to have a back up if needed. I could talk you through wiring whatever you want to try if you decide to try it.
@pauljanssen7594 Жыл бұрын
The nice thing about getting the old lead-acid battery out is this for lithium batteries One is the wait lithium batteries or about one-third weight. Two is power they stormed more power more efficiently. Three is life expectancy they last longer no watering Messi acid clean up. 4th is you have to buy a charger to match your battery system. 5th would be this like an add-on for regenerative braking but you can buy a more efficient motor 3-phase with the controller. Much more efficient, can even buy a little bit taller rims & Wheels.
@vetteguy Жыл бұрын
buy a gas powered cart
@randyragland9218 Жыл бұрын
If your a hunter,electric is ONLY way to go.
@daxc1972 Жыл бұрын
Just too loud for my tastes
@virgilgoble1932 Жыл бұрын
How much for used battery
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Are you talking about used Trojans or used Lithium batteries? The price of used Trojan T105's would vary based on things like market area and the current cost of lead. The last used ones I saw for sale were 74.00 each. Used lithium batteries, I don't know. I do know that if you had the time and inclination that you could easily make your own lithium battery packs. Depending on your ability, you could buy one from certain wrecked autos, strip and transplant the cells into your own packs.
@virgilgoble1932 Жыл бұрын
@@bretbradbury5559 yes
@xcytibl Жыл бұрын
Excellent idea! Thanks!
@comodice905 Жыл бұрын
Bloke y
@armandboisvenue2987 Жыл бұрын
What?? I got ten years out of my 6 volt batteries.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
There are many factors that determine how long you get out of your batteries. My cart stays outside during hot summer days and we usually have at least 60 days over 100 degrees in the summer. That takes a toll on the batteries. I usually got 5 years out of them on average and could restore and get more out of them by flushing them thoroughly, pouring distilled water and epsom salt in them and giving it another go but the juice isn't worth the squeeze anymore for me. Billing my hourly rate, I'd rather spend my time on other things these days.
@williamguilzon5082 Жыл бұрын
I can see why you only get 4 years out of your led acid batteries. A little TLC goes a long way.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
I realize that you think you know what you're talking about but I'll bet you don't.
@williamguilzon5082 Жыл бұрын
I have over 40 years in maintenance, so I DO have some idea what I’m talking about. By the look of your lead acid batteries you don’t take proper care of them. Their filthy and I’ll bet they are low on electrolyte. My cart batteries last a good 7 years with proper care.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
@@williamguilzon5082 while I don't have 40 years, I have a degree in electronics and 35 years experience in automotive electrical and 23 years power engineering and maintenance with AT&T, working with DC power plants including many battery types, power distribution systems, AC power, distribution, transfer switches, generation, fuel, battery, cooling and starting systems. What you see is dust and dirt on top of a product called no-ox-id. The cables are 2/0 pure copper to the motor and 2ga between the batteries, all hydraulically crimped. All connections are properly torqued with a calibrated Snap on torque wrench and then treated heavily with No-Ox-Id to protect them all. Water levels maintained regularly and topped off as needed with distilled water. The batteries were regularly checked, isolated, tested with a Midtronics test set for mohs and siemens levels and the connections retorqued and retreated. I agree that the dirt and grass stuck to the no-ox-id product may appear unsightly but it in no way affects the performance of these batteries. I have had engine start batteries in buildings remain on chargers their entire lives and yet our protocol is to replace them at the 5 year mark. I test them also with the Midtronics test set and watch their decline and the most remarkable thing that I can share is that the hotter the environment that these batteries are stored in, the less time they last. Also, Bell labs worked in tandem with the lead acid battery cell manufacturer at the time and did many engineering studies, spending many millions of dollars and the results concluded that the optimal battery temp for a lead acid battery is 77 degrees and for a 40yr cell, it's life is reduced by 10 years with a simple temperature increase of 1 degree. I've experienced higher temps than that in the middle of winter so batteries beginning to fail at the 5yr mark is never a surprise to me when considering the environment they're in. Best regards.
@williamguilzon5082 Жыл бұрын
Bottom line you don’t take care of your stuff it won’t last. And by the looks of things you don’t take cars of your stuff. I’m done
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
@@williamguilzon5082 lol no honey, the bottom line is that you're clearly not not smart enough to know what matters and what doesn't when it comes to technical things related to lead acid batteries, but that's ok, you keep trying little buddy and someday you might just get it. You might not have many years left but maybe, just maybe there's still a little hope for you. Hang in there!!
@scottwood3235 Жыл бұрын
Could I ask what kind of cart you installed these in ? I bought 4 Dakota lithiums, just like yours. I have yet to install them for lack of technical info. I am installing them in a 48 volt EZGO RXV, and have been told there us more to it than just dropping them in, mostly because of the regeneration feature the charges the batteries when you use the brake. I am running a 650 amp Navitas controller, and have been told that may need a reflash. I am going to start calling tech support lines, but any insight you have would be much appreciated. Thanks.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Hi Scott, I apologize for missing your question and not answering it sooner. I have a 36 V EZGO cart
@johndunham2237 Жыл бұрын
I am on year 5 with my batteries I maintain and charge my batteries and my golf cart is used even in winter snow a new set is under $700 and I don’t have to buy a new charger I still love old technology
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
The core battery temperature has a huge effect on the life span of a lead acid battery. Being in a colder environment, they will last longer. What I have is comparable in amp hours to a set of Trojan T105's which, here in the south last never more than 5 years with regular maintenance. Sure I've spent time flushing them and extending their lives significantly but at my rate of pay, it costs less to buy a new set. While the guarantee is only 11 years with these, the lithium Fe batteries that I'm using have a life expectancy of 4x lead acid batteries ( of over 20 years). Even at 700.00, the technically supported expectation is that a person will still spend 2800 over the same life span of these batteries and they won't rot your frame out over that period of time either. Also, these batteries could have 2 replaced and the charger replaced every 5 years and still come out ahead of whatever cheap batteries you're referring to. Love it or hate it, you're paying more for it so enjoy it! I'm also curious about what brand and model golf cart battery you're using that costs 700 new for a full set or are you running 3 or 4 12 volt batteries in series instead? I've met people that like to use 3 or 4 12 volt car batteries in series and while that's something that the cart can operate on, the range is greatly diminished and that's not not even remotely close to a comparison that's worthy of a discussion. Even at your "low" price, there's no value in it over time. It's comparable to someone sharing a good deal on filet mignon and someone jumping in trying to tell everyone how cheap they can buy hamburger meat.
@bbllaakkee Жыл бұрын
I still love old technology -- enough said. just wait
@KimKlieger Жыл бұрын
I've tended to find that the root cause of this issue is a worn nylon roller guide that sits under the door guide bracket. Over time, this roller wears and does not lift the guide bracket as it should. Modifying the switch arm or bending mountings tend to 'fool' the issue by causing the bracket to rider differently on the roller guide. These will likely also fail over time unless the nylon roller guide is replaced. Sad that a $2.00 deficient roller guide is an Achilles heel for a $400 device.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
It's a simple solution to a problem that absolutely shouldn't exist, that's for sure. Things have recently gotten worse and I might take the time to source parts and update the entire mechanism. I could make them with my lathe but I struggle with finding the extra time. Regardless of what I decide I'll make a video. I think that if the oven was better insulated to keep the heat inside, the nylon wheels wouldn't fail so quickly or easily. If I buy another, that's the first thing that I'll do. I use a product that's 1/2" thick from HeatShield Products.
@JoseReyes-wo2lm Жыл бұрын
( MAN, I want one, I need one , I got to have one , maybe 🤔 3 of them !) How much they cost ????
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
They're on their website. I think 1600 for 3 is what I paid. It's important to consider that these batteries are guaranteed to last 10 years compared to typical Trojan or other golf cart batteries fail within 5. The long term cost will be less overall for sure.
@RamblinRoadies Жыл бұрын
When you say 400 amp controller, I'd that the stock controller on the cart?
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
It's a DCX (aftermarket) controller that I bought in 1996.
@mcm95403 Жыл бұрын
I just use a rubber band, does the job and simple to remove.
@misfitgarageutah Жыл бұрын
I have the same table just a 4x4. I got it quite a while ago probably 3 years ago. Ever since I got it my Z has been extremely noisy. I had forgotten about it until I just listened to yours. Do you have any suggestions of what on this table would have made it be so noisy from the get go? It also sounds worse like when first starting to move it and changes sounds after moving around for a while. I have also done several mods to mine including adding a slat stiffener that basically is accomplishing the same thing you were doing. Because for some reason some of my slats are higher than others so moving long distances either direction will create more or less space between the material so when it would touch and drag on the y axis the whole piece of material would move ruining my cut. I got the THC with it but I could never get it to work no matter what Premier told me to do. Ive seen now they send it all wired up. Mine was not I was expected to wire mine myself and wiring is my worst skill. Like it has some sort of power and shows numbers and does stuff but its never controlled the Z axis. He also sent me a new one lol So i have 2 brand new THC that i cant ever use. Another mod i did similar to your was I added an extra holder at the bottom of the torch so it was held in 2 places so it couldnt bend and move around if it were to drag. The table has been like a 6 out of 10. There is a ton of stuff that could be better so easily but I guess that is what you get when you go with the most budget friendly option. Anyways I would like to maybe bounce a few ideas off you and pick your brain about it if you don't mind. My email is [email protected] Thanks!
@bretbradbury55596 ай бұрын
Hey Blake, I just sent you an email with my cell phone number. Give me a shout at your convenience
@Savage-fo2rz Жыл бұрын
Do you have a write up on this?
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
I don’t but look me up and call me and I can share a bit if you need.
@tthams73 Жыл бұрын
Took your advise on the towels! They are absolutely better than anything I’ve ever tried! I’ve tried coffee filters, expensive “lab” quality lint free towels…. They leave lint a fluff! Thanks! I ordered a mega case from Amazon!
@tthams73 Жыл бұрын
What are using for a towel? I’ve tried coffee filters, “lint free” towels and even some expensive lab lint free towels. They all leave fibers behind
@andrewescobar434 Жыл бұрын
Sounds great!
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Thanks! Currently for sale on Facebook after I change the bulb in the tail light lol.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
I'm sorry. I had the camera zoomed in too much so I'll make another the next time I build an engine with pistons that use circlips or I'll break down a stock piston/rod assembly.
@MmetalbikesS3 ай бұрын
The method with the pliers saved me today, so thanks a lot! The camera angle really isnt optimal, but the procedure is understandable, and after two tries I got the clip seated with minimal wear on the components.
@andrewescobar434 Жыл бұрын
Bret*
@andrewescobar434 Жыл бұрын
Good to see Brad still going strong. Can't wait til you build my c5 for me
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Hey Andrew. Thanks buddy!
@mauriciocontreras7594 Жыл бұрын
who made your blower intake scoop looks awesome,works good?
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Thank you for the kind words. I built the entire car, inside and out. It was time consuming but not really technically difficult. Maybe I should post a video on how to do that. If I get enough requests, I will. Going from a closed hood with a bell mouth in front of the blower to this gained us 6psi boost half way through the run and then at 46-47psi, it blew the lid open on the intake manifold and it was an American made, hand TIG welded intake.
@WldLifePicTkr Жыл бұрын
Helpful, but what would help more is if you included the actual fix on the video. nice to know there are Numerous screws to remove/replace, & the tab pull to remove the cover was helpful as well
@rogers906 Жыл бұрын
I have found that using shop air at full flow gets rid of most if not all the grit. Then wipe it clean with brake clean or other cleaner you like.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
My shop air runs at 175psi and I scrub until my white, Scott brand shop towels get a clean wipe. I have used the shop air with a really fine blower as well as one that sprays solvent out the nozzle and still get a ton of grit out of the cylinders. It reminds me of when you go to a manual car wash and spray the crap out of your car and it seems clean and when you simply touch it with anything including your bare hands and see it removing a lot of smut from the surface.
@davidfranchi545 Жыл бұрын
Thank you this is the exact problem my oven has I will take your advice and fix it
@davidfranchi545 Жыл бұрын
Fix the problem spring was broken went to Ace hardware and they had a great selection of springs thanks again for the video
@butchcassidy5398 Жыл бұрын
That cross hash is what a berry brush? 😅
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Unlike most people/shops, I use a Mitutoyo profilometer to measure the hone results after cleaning the block. Doesn't matter if I used the hair from my sisters legs to hone it as long as I get the desired results. I got the recommended measurement values from Keith at Total Seal. I use Diamond stones if it matters. If you have a method that's better don't hesitate to share it.
@danielwilliams4752 Жыл бұрын
This guy came to kick ass and chew gum, and he must be all out of asses to kick.
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Maybe one day I'll get some time and edit out the gum lol. Love the Rowdy Roddy Piper reference from "They Live"!! Love that scene! One of the greats for sure. That and R. Lee Ermey from the first 15 minutes or Full Metal Jacket.
@MovieGuy846 Жыл бұрын
I found that the bigger issue is that there is a nylon two piece sheave on the arm that hits the switch that grinds down over time and thus lowers the arm to the point the door jams up on the said switch. I’ve repaired this issue maybe three times now by resurfacing the washer to re-enlarge its diameter but now it’s getting old constantly doing this. I’ve tried calling Breville to see about getting spare washers but they weren’t any help (appears they rather sell me a new oven). Anyway, I still love the oven but I would love it more if they can just help me fix this irritating issue.
@Cokhimientay2024 Жыл бұрын
New subscriber
@permabulk1454 Жыл бұрын
Dude I’m currently doing this to my DBC 2004 LS1 gto. Loving the process who did yours
@bretbradbury5559 Жыл бұрын
Thanks, I do them.
@permabulk1454 Жыл бұрын
@@bretbradbury5559 oh right on bro that’s bad ass. What did you use for the mirror polish finish? Mine is basically as ported as it’s gonna get, I’m currently about to use the 320gr cross buff I have (already finished off the porting with a 180/280g gonna use a bit of wd40 and the 320gr to finish then mirror polish with either a foam pad and some macguire aluminum polish or if there are better options I’m open
@_MunK_ Жыл бұрын
Did you get any noticeable gains?
@BucketList222 жыл бұрын
KZread just recommended this video to me, and it is very real entertaining to me right now. @ 3:21 you have a good look at one of the holes between the valley and above the cam bore. As you can see it is very jagged. Would you consider it worthwhile to clean up the edges with a die grinder?
@bretbradbury55592 жыл бұрын
Hi Jeff, That is just casting. It has a jagged edge but is thick. The only time I grind casting slag off is if there's any significant risk of it breaking loose and getting into the engine. The lifter windows in the Dart LS Next blocks often get my attention. One edge I might not have mentioned in the video is the bottom of the bores. I use a flap wheel and radius the bottom edges of every cylinder since the piston skirts travel beyond that point. If the pistons tilt any at the bottom of their stroke, on their way back into the bore, a rough edge in the bore from machining at the bottom can wreck your skirts. It's a worthwhile task in my opinion.
Пікірлер
Another common problem you may notice with this oven (especially after cleaning) is thhe elements may not heat. There is a little black bubble inside, on side close to back. This bubble thermostat needs to be wiped clean with soft cloth or paper towel.
I wanted to add an update to this video. I never closed in the circuit to add the lead acid batteries into the battery circuit for this golf cart because it would also create a high current charge for the Dakota digital batteries which could cause damage to them. Instead I'm going to have to open up the Dakota digital battery circuit before closing the switch for the lead acid battery string.
so im beter off with stock rockers with needle bearings? or maybe aftermarket with larger needle bearings?
The issue isn't with the size of the needle bearings and there's only a certain amount of space between the trunnion body and rocker. This trouble is caused by the lack of quality metal used in the trunnion bodies. I've seen various manufacturers polish the surfaces to a high luster without any gains in reliability. It doesn't matter if it's bushings or bearings. The result has always been the same. At least the CHE bushings aren't pressed in so it won't wear in the same place every time. It also lowers the MOI of the rocker for better high RPM stability. The hardness of the surface of the trunnions is the issue. Brian Tooley might have solved this with his latest rocker design. He added some super hard sleeves to the ends of the trunnions which is a brilliant idea for cost savings but effectiveness.
I have been tossing the idea of buying a premier plasma when I return from my deployment. I have ran a couple of them that have the Linux cnc system on them. Was curious how much something like that would cost because I like the way it operated. Also for construction wise would you consider premier to be a good unit. The ones Ive ran in the past had servo motors instead of steppers. Also I already have an Everlast 82i that I was wanting to put on a table. Just curious on what your outlook is on these few topics. Thankyou and that was a great video look forward to seeing more.
I modded the table a lot, even more beyond this video. I offset the gantry rearward using some 5/16" steel plate which allowed me to use more of the table surface than before. I wish the pans were constructed from stainless. I would have been more than willing to pay for the additional cost because of how much these corrode. I've been using cutting fluid ever since but it still rusts and it frustrates me to no end. I also need to come up with a way to take up the play in the gears so that it'll cut better circles. I will say that the owner of Premier has always been helpful and nice. If you do get this table, I highly recommend getting some truck bed epoxy and coating the pan completely before using it. Make sure it's a two part epoxy. I've been VERY pleased with LinerXtreeme out of Houston TX. Hit me up when you reply and I'll give you my cell# in case I can be of any help with setting it up. Thanks for your service!
Hey man I’m looking to do a terminator X on my 05 C6 can you share your wiring experience, I can contact you or you can contact me if you prefer Hit me up so we can exchange information thank you
972-741-7457
Had to do this again after a few years. Thanks again!
I have fixed that switch/timer and door issue repeatedly and the same issue keeps reocuring. Any suggestions???
The wheels are dying inside. They should have either insulated the oven better or used metal or at least a higher temp plastic such as PTFE. My name is Bret Bradbury. Look me up and message me on Facebook and maybe I can review a video to try and help
Thank you so much for posting this. I just started having this problem. Your video was perfect in describing how the switch worked. I think I also need to replace the spring. Excited to take it apart and get to work.
I'm so happy it helped. I need to take it apart again and repair the hinge assembly. I highly recommend while you have it apart that you add some good, high-temp insulation to the outside of the oven, under the cover it'll help it last much longer! Best wishes!
Thanks for letting me know since this is the project for the weekend.
cant you do a mdi move like G0 y5. you must be able to calibrate it.
I bought four for my 48 volt. How are they now? I am disappointed with the $2500 I spent. I would love to talk and know your experience
I won't lie one bit about it. I am not happy at all. The cart doesn't go far before at least one battery goes into low voltage protection, leaving the driver stranded completely. My wife and daughter drive this cart and it won't even go a mile before failing. I've had to tow it home 3 times to the point where they quit driving it because they didn't want to get stranded anymore. For as much money as I spent, it's quite ridiculous. I am a power tech with a degree in electronics, working for AT&T for the past 25'years, dealing with AC and DC power systems including battery maintenance. I installed everything with full integrity. With my original batteries in the golf cart I never had to do an equalization charge. With these lithium batteries simply trying to isolate and solve the problem, I have performed countless isolation/equalization charges on the individual batteries however it was in vain because it didn't help at all. Thinking that I might have an individual battery that is weak, going into low voltage protection I began documenting which battery was going into low-voltage shut down and it changed between two batteries out of the three. Speaking of low-voltage shut down, it is absolutely horrible. With the lead acid batteries, the cart would begin to slow down and you would know it's time to head home but with the golf cart on these Dakota batteries, it simply dies and you're either getting towed or pushing the damn thing home. While I do have a 400 amp controller on this golf cart, my wife and daughter don't go running around the neighborhood with the pedal on the floor they simply go cruising around the neighborhood at low speeds. Soon I hope to post up a video revealing what I consider to be the perfect solution for my mistaken purchase of these batteries. I think that anybody who's already made the purchase like I have will appreciate this relatively simple and inexpensive upgrade.
Thank you!!!!
Interesting. My Breville SAO just started cutting Off when it reaches preset temperature. A couple of weeks ago something happened to the door and there’s no spring to it. It will just fall open if you aren’t holding on to it. After seeing your video, I wonder if the two things are related. I’m 73 year old woman but pretty handy…maybe I’ll open it up and see what happens. One day when I have lots of time. LoL! Thanks for the hint!
Just saw your video thanks for your help. im not in the industry just a hobbyist this will help set my machine up
Great! I hope it helps!!
Thanks!!! Saved me.
How many hours can golf cart batteries be depleted for, before you get them charged again before they won't charge up as full as before?
your camera work sucks my man, very aggravating. Very good content though, thank you.
I have the same problem but I can't get the bottom screws to unscrew. what tool do you use?
I'm assuming you're referring to the screws in the lower sides of the oven. The ones in the black plastic aren't removed if I recall correctly. The lower stainless screws are Torx 10 or 15. The least expensive to get a set is probably Harbor Freight.
I'm looking at the same set of 60ah dakota lithiums for my 36V cart, trying to decide between those or the Trojan lead acid (same set you took out of your cart) Im curious how they have compared in porformance? And range? Do you play golf with these batteries or use the cart for something else? Im concerned after talking with the manufacture that the 60ah batteries wont last 18 holes consistently in an EZGO with a 350 amp controller. Thanks!!
Golf Carts are legal to drive in our neighborhood and so that's all that my golf cart is used for. I will say that all batteries like these have a low voltage cutoff therefore you get no warning when they're going to shut down. They don't simply begin to slow down to a crawl as they get low. I'm not sure if you're familiar with the inability of one battery to charge when others are fully charged. That occurs regardless of which battery you're using, lead or lithium. If you don't equalize charge your batteries, it causes early shutdown (decreases your range) since your range is only as good as the weakest battery in the string. I discovered that the charger for individual cells will drain a battery if it's connected to a battery and there's no AC input to the charger. My wife accidentally unplugged the charger while leaving it connected to one battery. As a result, the cart wouldn't even move. Once charged I can't tell you how far the cart will go but I know that my wife and daughter will drive it non stop for over an hour, around the neighborhood without issue. The cart is much more nimble because of losing the weight of the batteries.
I also forgot to mention, you can also try a mix if you choose. You can run 3 12v conventional batteries in parallel with the Lithium batteries or you could place a switch on them to have a back up if needed. I could talk you through wiring whatever you want to try if you decide to try it.
The nice thing about getting the old lead-acid battery out is this for lithium batteries One is the wait lithium batteries or about one-third weight. Two is power they stormed more power more efficiently. Three is life expectancy they last longer no watering Messi acid clean up. 4th is you have to buy a charger to match your battery system. 5th would be this like an add-on for regenerative braking but you can buy a more efficient motor 3-phase with the controller. Much more efficient, can even buy a little bit taller rims & Wheels.
buy a gas powered cart
If your a hunter,electric is ONLY way to go.
Just too loud for my tastes
How much for used battery
Are you talking about used Trojans or used Lithium batteries? The price of used Trojan T105's would vary based on things like market area and the current cost of lead. The last used ones I saw for sale were 74.00 each. Used lithium batteries, I don't know. I do know that if you had the time and inclination that you could easily make your own lithium battery packs. Depending on your ability, you could buy one from certain wrecked autos, strip and transplant the cells into your own packs.
@@bretbradbury5559 yes
Excellent idea! Thanks!
Bloke y
What?? I got ten years out of my 6 volt batteries.
There are many factors that determine how long you get out of your batteries. My cart stays outside during hot summer days and we usually have at least 60 days over 100 degrees in the summer. That takes a toll on the batteries. I usually got 5 years out of them on average and could restore and get more out of them by flushing them thoroughly, pouring distilled water and epsom salt in them and giving it another go but the juice isn't worth the squeeze anymore for me. Billing my hourly rate, I'd rather spend my time on other things these days.
I can see why you only get 4 years out of your led acid batteries. A little TLC goes a long way.
I realize that you think you know what you're talking about but I'll bet you don't.
I have over 40 years in maintenance, so I DO have some idea what I’m talking about. By the look of your lead acid batteries you don’t take proper care of them. Their filthy and I’ll bet they are low on electrolyte. My cart batteries last a good 7 years with proper care.
@@williamguilzon5082 while I don't have 40 years, I have a degree in electronics and 35 years experience in automotive electrical and 23 years power engineering and maintenance with AT&T, working with DC power plants including many battery types, power distribution systems, AC power, distribution, transfer switches, generation, fuel, battery, cooling and starting systems. What you see is dust and dirt on top of a product called no-ox-id. The cables are 2/0 pure copper to the motor and 2ga between the batteries, all hydraulically crimped. All connections are properly torqued with a calibrated Snap on torque wrench and then treated heavily with No-Ox-Id to protect them all. Water levels maintained regularly and topped off as needed with distilled water. The batteries were regularly checked, isolated, tested with a Midtronics test set for mohs and siemens levels and the connections retorqued and retreated. I agree that the dirt and grass stuck to the no-ox-id product may appear unsightly but it in no way affects the performance of these batteries. I have had engine start batteries in buildings remain on chargers their entire lives and yet our protocol is to replace them at the 5 year mark. I test them also with the Midtronics test set and watch their decline and the most remarkable thing that I can share is that the hotter the environment that these batteries are stored in, the less time they last. Also, Bell labs worked in tandem with the lead acid battery cell manufacturer at the time and did many engineering studies, spending many millions of dollars and the results concluded that the optimal battery temp for a lead acid battery is 77 degrees and for a 40yr cell, it's life is reduced by 10 years with a simple temperature increase of 1 degree. I've experienced higher temps than that in the middle of winter so batteries beginning to fail at the 5yr mark is never a surprise to me when considering the environment they're in. Best regards.
Bottom line you don’t take care of your stuff it won’t last. And by the looks of things you don’t take cars of your stuff. I’m done
@@williamguilzon5082 lol no honey, the bottom line is that you're clearly not not smart enough to know what matters and what doesn't when it comes to technical things related to lead acid batteries, but that's ok, you keep trying little buddy and someday you might just get it. You might not have many years left but maybe, just maybe there's still a little hope for you. Hang in there!!
Could I ask what kind of cart you installed these in ? I bought 4 Dakota lithiums, just like yours. I have yet to install them for lack of technical info. I am installing them in a 48 volt EZGO RXV, and have been told there us more to it than just dropping them in, mostly because of the regeneration feature the charges the batteries when you use the brake. I am running a 650 amp Navitas controller, and have been told that may need a reflash. I am going to start calling tech support lines, but any insight you have would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Scott, I apologize for missing your question and not answering it sooner. I have a 36 V EZGO cart
I am on year 5 with my batteries I maintain and charge my batteries and my golf cart is used even in winter snow a new set is under $700 and I don’t have to buy a new charger I still love old technology
The core battery temperature has a huge effect on the life span of a lead acid battery. Being in a colder environment, they will last longer. What I have is comparable in amp hours to a set of Trojan T105's which, here in the south last never more than 5 years with regular maintenance. Sure I've spent time flushing them and extending their lives significantly but at my rate of pay, it costs less to buy a new set. While the guarantee is only 11 years with these, the lithium Fe batteries that I'm using have a life expectancy of 4x lead acid batteries ( of over 20 years). Even at 700.00, the technically supported expectation is that a person will still spend 2800 over the same life span of these batteries and they won't rot your frame out over that period of time either. Also, these batteries could have 2 replaced and the charger replaced every 5 years and still come out ahead of whatever cheap batteries you're referring to. Love it or hate it, you're paying more for it so enjoy it! I'm also curious about what brand and model golf cart battery you're using that costs 700 new for a full set or are you running 3 or 4 12 volt batteries in series instead? I've met people that like to use 3 or 4 12 volt car batteries in series and while that's something that the cart can operate on, the range is greatly diminished and that's not not even remotely close to a comparison that's worthy of a discussion. Even at your "low" price, there's no value in it over time. It's comparable to someone sharing a good deal on filet mignon and someone jumping in trying to tell everyone how cheap they can buy hamburger meat.
I still love old technology -- enough said. just wait
I've tended to find that the root cause of this issue is a worn nylon roller guide that sits under the door guide bracket. Over time, this roller wears and does not lift the guide bracket as it should. Modifying the switch arm or bending mountings tend to 'fool' the issue by causing the bracket to rider differently on the roller guide. These will likely also fail over time unless the nylon roller guide is replaced. Sad that a $2.00 deficient roller guide is an Achilles heel for a $400 device.
It's a simple solution to a problem that absolutely shouldn't exist, that's for sure. Things have recently gotten worse and I might take the time to source parts and update the entire mechanism. I could make them with my lathe but I struggle with finding the extra time. Regardless of what I decide I'll make a video. I think that if the oven was better insulated to keep the heat inside, the nylon wheels wouldn't fail so quickly or easily. If I buy another, that's the first thing that I'll do. I use a product that's 1/2" thick from HeatShield Products.
( MAN, I want one, I need one , I got to have one , maybe 🤔 3 of them !) How much they cost ????
They're on their website. I think 1600 for 3 is what I paid. It's important to consider that these batteries are guaranteed to last 10 years compared to typical Trojan or other golf cart batteries fail within 5. The long term cost will be less overall for sure.
When you say 400 amp controller, I'd that the stock controller on the cart?
It's a DCX (aftermarket) controller that I bought in 1996.
I just use a rubber band, does the job and simple to remove.
I have the same table just a 4x4. I got it quite a while ago probably 3 years ago. Ever since I got it my Z has been extremely noisy. I had forgotten about it until I just listened to yours. Do you have any suggestions of what on this table would have made it be so noisy from the get go? It also sounds worse like when first starting to move it and changes sounds after moving around for a while. I have also done several mods to mine including adding a slat stiffener that basically is accomplishing the same thing you were doing. Because for some reason some of my slats are higher than others so moving long distances either direction will create more or less space between the material so when it would touch and drag on the y axis the whole piece of material would move ruining my cut. I got the THC with it but I could never get it to work no matter what Premier told me to do. Ive seen now they send it all wired up. Mine was not I was expected to wire mine myself and wiring is my worst skill. Like it has some sort of power and shows numbers and does stuff but its never controlled the Z axis. He also sent me a new one lol So i have 2 brand new THC that i cant ever use. Another mod i did similar to your was I added an extra holder at the bottom of the torch so it was held in 2 places so it couldnt bend and move around if it were to drag. The table has been like a 6 out of 10. There is a ton of stuff that could be better so easily but I guess that is what you get when you go with the most budget friendly option. Anyways I would like to maybe bounce a few ideas off you and pick your brain about it if you don't mind. My email is [email protected] Thanks!
Hey Blake, I just sent you an email with my cell phone number. Give me a shout at your convenience
Do you have a write up on this?
I don’t but look me up and call me and I can share a bit if you need.
Took your advise on the towels! They are absolutely better than anything I’ve ever tried! I’ve tried coffee filters, expensive “lab” quality lint free towels…. They leave lint a fluff! Thanks! I ordered a mega case from Amazon!
What are using for a towel? I’ve tried coffee filters, “lint free” towels and even some expensive lab lint free towels. They all leave fibers behind
Sounds great!
Thanks! Currently for sale on Facebook after I change the bulb in the tail light lol.
I'm sorry. I had the camera zoomed in too much so I'll make another the next time I build an engine with pistons that use circlips or I'll break down a stock piston/rod assembly.
The method with the pliers saved me today, so thanks a lot! The camera angle really isnt optimal, but the procedure is understandable, and after two tries I got the clip seated with minimal wear on the components.
Bret*
Good to see Brad still going strong. Can't wait til you build my c5 for me
Hey Andrew. Thanks buddy!
who made your blower intake scoop looks awesome,works good?
Thank you for the kind words. I built the entire car, inside and out. It was time consuming but not really technically difficult. Maybe I should post a video on how to do that. If I get enough requests, I will. Going from a closed hood with a bell mouth in front of the blower to this gained us 6psi boost half way through the run and then at 46-47psi, it blew the lid open on the intake manifold and it was an American made, hand TIG welded intake.
Helpful, but what would help more is if you included the actual fix on the video. nice to know there are Numerous screws to remove/replace, & the tab pull to remove the cover was helpful as well
I have found that using shop air at full flow gets rid of most if not all the grit. Then wipe it clean with brake clean or other cleaner you like.
My shop air runs at 175psi and I scrub until my white, Scott brand shop towels get a clean wipe. I have used the shop air with a really fine blower as well as one that sprays solvent out the nozzle and still get a ton of grit out of the cylinders. It reminds me of when you go to a manual car wash and spray the crap out of your car and it seems clean and when you simply touch it with anything including your bare hands and see it removing a lot of smut from the surface.
Thank you this is the exact problem my oven has I will take your advice and fix it
Fix the problem spring was broken went to Ace hardware and they had a great selection of springs thanks again for the video
That cross hash is what a berry brush? 😅
Unlike most people/shops, I use a Mitutoyo profilometer to measure the hone results after cleaning the block. Doesn't matter if I used the hair from my sisters legs to hone it as long as I get the desired results. I got the recommended measurement values from Keith at Total Seal. I use Diamond stones if it matters. If you have a method that's better don't hesitate to share it.
This guy came to kick ass and chew gum, and he must be all out of asses to kick.
Maybe one day I'll get some time and edit out the gum lol. Love the Rowdy Roddy Piper reference from "They Live"!! Love that scene! One of the greats for sure. That and R. Lee Ermey from the first 15 minutes or Full Metal Jacket.
I found that the bigger issue is that there is a nylon two piece sheave on the arm that hits the switch that grinds down over time and thus lowers the arm to the point the door jams up on the said switch. I’ve repaired this issue maybe three times now by resurfacing the washer to re-enlarge its diameter but now it’s getting old constantly doing this. I’ve tried calling Breville to see about getting spare washers but they weren’t any help (appears they rather sell me a new oven). Anyway, I still love the oven but I would love it more if they can just help me fix this irritating issue.
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Dude I’m currently doing this to my DBC 2004 LS1 gto. Loving the process who did yours
Thanks, I do them.
@@bretbradbury5559 oh right on bro that’s bad ass. What did you use for the mirror polish finish? Mine is basically as ported as it’s gonna get, I’m currently about to use the 320gr cross buff I have (already finished off the porting with a 180/280g gonna use a bit of wd40 and the 320gr to finish then mirror polish with either a foam pad and some macguire aluminum polish or if there are better options I’m open
Did you get any noticeable gains?
KZread just recommended this video to me, and it is very real entertaining to me right now. @ 3:21 you have a good look at one of the holes between the valley and above the cam bore. As you can see it is very jagged. Would you consider it worthwhile to clean up the edges with a die grinder?
Hi Jeff, That is just casting. It has a jagged edge but is thick. The only time I grind casting slag off is if there's any significant risk of it breaking loose and getting into the engine. The lifter windows in the Dart LS Next blocks often get my attention. One edge I might not have mentioned in the video is the bottom of the bores. I use a flap wheel and radius the bottom edges of every cylinder since the piston skirts travel beyond that point. If the pistons tilt any at the bottom of their stroke, on their way back into the bore, a rough edge in the bore from machining at the bottom can wreck your skirts. It's a worthwhile task in my opinion.
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