JBTrickleRC is a family friendly channel all about various forms of Competitive Remote Control (RC) racing and RC related hobbies. Here you will see episodes covering local club races to traveling and covering big races like points series to championship races. I'm also an RC airbrush artist and paint various RC bodies from more simplistic classic designs to ghosted in skulls and realistic flames so you will likely see various episodes showing some airbrush/painting/design tutorials along with some tips and tricks to help you along the way while also sharing some of my work.
In the future I plan to reach out to various people involved in the RC hobby and industry in an effort to dedicate some episodes with some of these people talking about their experiences. I hope you all enjoy the channel and if one of my videos successfully helps someone out there occasionally I consider that an accomplishment.
Thank you all again and I hope you enjoy!
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I cant wait for you to come off of break man.
I greatly appreciate it! I've had a few people reach out as well. Thank you!
Dude wish I would have found this years ago I’m on my way to get back into R/C racing I’m in Phoenix area this makes so much sense
@@JohnWisenbaker I greatly appreciate the kind words and happy to know it's still helping people. Welcome back to the hobby!
Can't get and info about the carbon fiber chassis plate for the Losi 22 s, can't get on their website, no phone number. Love your segments on drag racing. I'm 76 and retired did a little rc about 55 years ago.
@@GarryParsons-t3h www.undercoverrc.com/drag-chassis Give that link a try. They may offer a more recent version as well. I greatly appreciate the kind words and support!
Just finished my setup on used ovalwerks 1/10 scale. Getting ready to race Sunday so I took on street to test and fine at start unless I hit full throttle if I easy the trigger run fine tell it picks up speed and wants to spin out. I also took to a church parking lot that’s paved and did better but at higher speed it spins out I know the concrete track is clearer and free from oil and dirt. But don’t want to get to track and have to adjust is there anything I can change now. Thanks
Great question! The truth be told is all final adjustments will have to be made at the track. The surface you race on is the only surface that final tuning will truly matter. Benchtop setup and outside driveway or parking lot tuning is needed, it will help you adjust the diff and all the necessary trims. But even then final tuning will be necessary on your race track. As far as the spinning off the start goes, that can be tuned with the diff and or throttle input if your transmitter allows that kind of tuning. Sometimes I'd adjust the throttle curve so it took longer to reach full throttle which helps with off the line spinning. You're heading in the right direction. Just be prepared to make adjustments at the track as well to get it fully ready. Dont be afraid to talk with experienced racers there. Most will be happy to help you get it dialed in as well. Thank you for the comment and best of luck to you! Have fun and take each race day as a lesson and take notes.
@@jbtricklerc thanks for all the good info. The diff was really tight couple guys helped and adjusted it and ran great.
@@wildcardjoker Thats awesome news! Glad you got some help and got it running well! Best of luck to you and I hope you have a blast. Thank you for the support!
What ever happened to Jb ? Loved watching your videos.
I greatly appreciate the kind words and support! I got burned out, racing every weekend and editing videos 3 nights a week was a lot of work on top of working a full time job and being a family man. I plan to return in the future to some capacity, just haven't decided how or when yet lol. But I really truly appreciate the comment and support! It means a lot.
Had me all the way Into cutting the bump stop saying that they arnt needed
It depends on what you want to do and the setup you are looking for. Since we run internal shock limiters and custom works big bore spring kits (as mentioned and shown in the video), keeping the bump stop would affect the overall shock length of travel and minimize it further which is not wanted for this particular setup. If you want to keep the bump stop and also use the shock setup with limiters as mentioned in the video. I would recommend cutting them to be shorter so your shock can have more travel as the limiters take some of that away. There is always more than one way to do it, I'm just sharing my experience and a tested and proven method for our area of racing. I appreciate the comment and wish you the absolute best in all your RC racing adventures.
@@jbtricklerc yea for sure I definitely see what your talking about I was kinda being over dramatic because how much dirt late models at least in woo and Lucas oil rely on bump stops
good stuff brother
I greatly appreciate the support and comment!
Do you have videos on Traxxas Slash 4x4 VXL setup?😁
Unfortunately, I do not. We do not have any Slash 4x4 classes locally. However, if you look up my "converting a slash to dirt oval" video, A lot of what I do in that video would likely transfer and would be worth a try. If you do, update me and let me know how it works out! I appreciate the support and comment! Best of luck in all your RC racing adventures!
@@jbtricklerc Thanks I am looking at it now.
I know this is old, but I can't get the murfdogg site to load for the pdf. Is there any place else to find it or another good guide?
Is this on all stock components? I just starting dirt oval, on a rustic back yard style track, trying to get all tips and tricks i can lol great video !
It is mostly. The rules that we run only allowed an aftermarket steering servo and bandito racing tires and wheels and aftermarket shock springs on stock shocks. I have a slash build on the channel as well where I convert one to a dirt oval car and talk about the springs and internal shock limiters. It may be worth checking out as well. Thank you!
Your video has helped heaps, cheers mate!
I greatly appreciate the positive feedback! Thank you for the support! it really means a lot!
Want to clean that tranny fast squirt some Dawn in it and then take it outside turn on your water hose-clean it in the middle of the day when it’s really hot and the water in the hose is really hot -adjust spray nozzle for power wash -rinse &repeat if needed-Use a blow dryer to dry out the transmission- there you go
16:52 phase#2 slipper clutch spring adjustment 21:52 differential info. 24:35 rear arms tricks / toe adj
does this mod work on pavment oval?
For the Diff, for sure. In regard to the rear arm... It may be too aggressive. Although some pan cars do run an aggressive rear pod setup that acts similar. It may be worth trying, but be prepared to change it back if its too aggressive. Best of luck to you! Thank you for the comment
Hey JB I was wondering if you could help me get started with rc oval
I can do my best. What specifically are you looking for? you can reach out on facebook or my email as well.
@@jbtricklerc send me your email please
what would it do if you put 2 right side aarms on the back
Thank you. Great video.
No problem, I'm happy to help when I can.
What weight is the oil?
I'm pretty sure I was running 30 wt oil in all four.
Thanks a lot
@@acdfus No problem. I'm happy to help when I can.
What is the name of this model and how old is it?
The Chassis in this video I believe was the GFRP Havoc DD 3.2. I later ran a GFRP Havoc DD 2019 or 2020 version. The 3.2 was only a few years older. Very similar in design with updated features.
@@jbtricklerc Thanks a lot
Hey buddy miss your videos! Hope you're doing well! I moved to TN and found a track near me to race these little cars lol!
Thats awesome to hear! I hope you have a blast there and enjoying your new home. All is well here. Thank you, I'm trying to decide how and what I want to return with. Just haven't decided yet.
@jbtricklerc all good sir! As soon as I get the rest of my stuff and get back to the track, I'll start doing some more videos too 👍
I just cut a body and accidently cut into a fender The body hasn't even been painted yet was cutting it out I was gonna use some tire glue and a tooth pick and apply only where the cut is it's half an inch or should I paint body then add mesh tape and shoe goo I used to use tin tape or whatever hvac guys use for ac and heat duct connections tape
I would personally paint it first. However, you will need to let the body sit and cure after painting for a few days before using the shoe-goo. If you do it too soon it could react and smear the paint.
@jbtricklerc thank you and will do thanks to you
great vid but what is the uk version of shoe goo please
Thats a good question. E6000 is another similar product though I'm unsure of its availability out of the US.
what length of the custom works steering turnbuckles and ball cups please
Kerry, I honestly cannot remember off the top of my head. I had two or three different lengths in my spare parts bin. I robbed them from there lol. I can try to measure them when I get a chance. I believe the ball cups were just their standard long ball cups. That way you can cut them down if necessary.
Proline flakes off super easy. Even with createx 4030. If u must use proline back with tamiya white then clear
I definitely miss faskolor by Parma. I never had any issues with that brand and they offered so many more color options.
Something Like a Lacrosse Stick would Pickup the Car!
What’s size adapter
They offer a few variations. As long as its for a 1/10 dirt oval foam tire it should work. I cannot remember the exact version I was using. But the link here shows one that would work. Currently out of stock, but I'm sure it can be found elswhere. www.lefthander-rc.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=4168
That nitro 1/8 scale race would have been cool with more cars but damn that one guy who won got into a rhythm fast and didn'take hardly any mistakes
Absolutely, it was once a very popular class and had many racers in it. The car you speak of is always fast and consistent. Great driver.
Excelent Great...... Thanks Bro
Happy to help when I can!
Sweet...
Thanks, I appreciate it!
Thank you for all of your great video's on helping me to go faster and knowing how to work on my Traxxas slash and maintaining my slash...👍⚡🏁🇺🇲
No problem at all. That is what the channel is for, helping newer racers! Thank you for the comment and support!
all the tracks i race at gyros are not leaguel
Its pretty much the same here. They did have a class for these cars specifically for a while and they do allow them in the breakout class as well. They just didn't take off like some thought they would. At least not locally for us.
Opions are like but holes everyone has one 😂😂But true. New comer here and great content 💪🙏💯🙌🙌
Thank you I greatly appreciate it! Lol
How to repair a hole on my RC Body? 😢
Great question. It really depends on how big it is. I have repaired some holes using the rock shield I talked about in this video. Putting a layer on the outside and inside of the body to cover it. I've done that If I had to move body post holes a few times actually.
You explained positive and negative camber and talked about your baseline amount, but wasn’t sure what combo you were using as far as left versus right side camber. I understand it completely with stock cars which I race just thought that I heard the front end is looked at differently in RC cars because of their caster when they turn.
Great video
Dasizniz, the RC world can be extremely similar to actual cars and yet different in certain areas as well. For example, a purpose built RC Oval car will typically be setup with camber very similar to a real car. The Traxxas Slash cars can differ because you are restricted to the stock parts in most cases and not designed for this purpose. This causes some creative experimenting. So I basically setup my slash camber to even wear pattern and tune it into that. A Custom Works or GFRP purpose built car I'll usually put 1.5 to 2 degrees camber all the way around Left side positive and right side negative. So it really depends on car, class and type of racing.
Thanks for the info. I started last year and got a TLR 22 5.0 and made huge gains from the beginning of the year to the end. Just now trying to fine-tune some things like camber, ride height, and mess around with spring rate a little bit more
@@Dasizniz Awesome to hear and it sounds like you are on the right track! Keep it up and best of luck in all your RC adventures! Thank you for the support and comment.
For a spec super stock class like you are describing, is a slash 2wd vxl brushless typically not allowed even though it’s a stock truck?
Great question and I believe this is going to be addressed more soon, if not already by a lot of tracks that race these cars. The Brushless versions are becoming more popular and in higher numbers. Typically, a brushed and brushless slash car wont be raced together unless its a breakout class. so for say Super Street or super Stock, they will want to keep the electronics the same across the class. There is a possibility that they will go to the stock VxL setup in the future. Or they may keep the hobbywing 13.5 setup in it. Typically thats been the case, but I've seen a lot of interest in the VXL being used.
Excellent video! What spec are the bearings? I looked up part number P167875 but it doesn't exist. Please let me know what size bearings will fit, thank you.
Thanks, I greatly appreciate it. I cannot recall the exact sizes as its been a while but I'm pretty sure. However, I recommend a bearing kit or you can use the bearings called out in these kits as a reference. Bocca offers several versions. you can check them out here. www.bocabearings.com/parts/Legend-Kit
@@jbtricklerc This is great! Thank you for the info!
@@EdG407FL No problem. I'm happy to help when I can.
Remember guys. Same method.
Thanks Sims!
huge help! my frist run around.
Awesome to hear! Thats what it is here for. Helping others when I can!
Y’all should look into using hockey sticks to recover cars do no one’s on the track! Makes life easier lol great vid!
Hockey sticks! LOL that's brilliant! I'll have to pass that on to the track owner. Thank you for the comment and support.
Great work. What vinyl are you using for the logos? Printed in a cricut? '
I have a Silhouette Cameo cutter. The Vinyl is Avery Paint masking vinyl. They have two versions, one in white and one in yellow. For whatever reason, I find the white paint masking to be much more pliable especially in sharper cornered edges and such. I greatly appreciate the comment and support.
Where did you get you steering links I want to switch mine over to this I do not like the steering setup and the little lock collars .. if you could send me in the right direction as what to look for that would be awesome
I greatly appreciate the comment and support. Honestly, I cannot remember the exact part numbers I used as they were some extra steering links I had in my pan car parts box. However, you can find them on Muddslide Motorsports website. I had three sets of spares, short medium and long in my box. If I remember correctly, I used the medium or long lengths. They sell different length options. with the proper ball end caps, you should be able to take up or lengthen if necessary. I hope this is helpful and thank you again. www.muddslidemotorsports.com/nsearch.html?#search/q=turnbuckles&sortby=rel&main_category=&page=1&size=15&storeid=yhst-26560558224094/1
Great advice but that pinion gear wow must have been a long track or banked
Absolutely, It is quite a large track with banking as well. Especially for 1/10 scale. They even hold 1/4 scale races here. very cool place. Thank you for the comment and support.
You have way too much steering. Why not reduce to 5 - 10% from your dual rate. Is that a GFRP havoc?
That is a GFRP Havoc. I cant remember which model for this particular video though. I started with a Havoc 3.2 and ended up with a 2022 version. I do believe I did end up adjusting the dual rate as well as a right front spring change if I recall correctly. I appreciate the comment.
I finally got an old bolink legend car
Thats awesome to hear! I hope you have a blast with it and best of luck in your RC adventures. Thank you for the comment.
@@jbtricklerc so far I’ve had two heat races and a B-main and things didn’t go so well but I got faster each time out had to line out the car because it was set up years ago with rubber tires so switching to foams should help plus dialing in my controller a bit better will help plus getting more lap time with it will help
@@kylekallies3381 I'm super happy to hear you are making progress. that's all it takes, time, tuning, learning and a bit of luck in traffic. Keep it up!
I can't say that I started with this. I got the rc-12 then the days of thunder r/c car it was a pan car. I ended up putting a dually speed controller by novice and the 6 turn by twister. I believe that was the manufacturer. It was the baddest made in the day. I'd like to say it would run around 75mph and was pretty unheard of. I ended up hitting a change in the pavement due to a crack in it. The front graphite of the lower pan exploded. This is when I went to get the parts to fix it and seen the bolink spec oval car racer..I bought it and a futaba mj controller T2PHKA Am 27 with electric speed control. I still have it today. Yeah you had to get flanged bearings. The were illegal to run in racing. I could have sent you the sealed flanged bearings. I have extras I changed the days of thunder car. It is 10th scale and the bolink is 12th
sounds like you had a blast as well. There was some 1/12 scale racing at Easley years ago but it eventually ended up being 1/10 only. Some of the earlier pan cars I had was an old G-Force I believe, then I went to an Associated then on to KSG and then Hyperdrive over the years. Pretty much stuck with Hyperdrive from there. I appreciate the story and comment.
It was either twisted or wicked. I know that they were on the way out because I didn't see any back after I bought that 6 turn. It tore up everything you put it in 4 tech, rustle and stampede were the 3 in-between getting into the gas cars. I still have the days of thunder car. Don't have any idea who put it out and definitely wish I had kept the body. It would catch air inside of it and flip over backwards and literally roll down the road flipping backwards. The body was like putting a shoe box on it.I ended up putting it in the 4 tech. Got tired of buying drivetrane parts the rustler,was quick to go and then the stampede was fun. I would race next to the cars riding by ripped out of the driveway basically 30 35 and just gag the throttle down and it would stand up and leave the car sitting there and people would stop to watch me playing games with the drivers. It was a blast. The street cars didn't do well with the reflectors in the road. Not even when I finally got the Nitro TC3. It was the baddest. I bought it rtr and then bought the team kit and built it. I didn't stop until it was unrecognizable. We all raced them around everyone always asked me what car I was running. Blue anodized as much as I could. Got shock towers from England and rear a arms for my Nitro rc10 gt. I put the o.s. 18 on it and it's a screamer. I did have some honest clean fun. As a young man it was super hard to make the decision to go to the sausage fest instead of the night life Tampa Bay and St.Pete have to offer the young people. I did both but not at the same time and definitely different friends. Funny how life passes before your eyes in a blink of a moment you're the Chester with the touchem cars. You are the only one who doesn't know that is what the young people think.
I put so much money into this that I will be buried or burned with my collection of 6. I put about 3k in my Tc3 And about 25 in one of my Gts. The other I left stock to be able to race at B&B hobbies on US-19 in Hudson Florida. They were the best shop I believe in the south eastern United States
Can't thank you enough for the instructions. Excellent demonstration of how a tutorial is done. Clear and concise steps (making it so one has an understanding of the process). Extra personal tips were a nice touch. Liked and Subscribed. Cheers.
I greatly appreciate the compliment and support! Thats what the channel is for. Helping others when I can. Best of luck to you in all your RC adventures and thank you again.
? Mr JB in your years of experience in dirt oval would you say most races are won staying on the bottom of the track
I'd say most races are won with a combination of set-up, corner speed and consistency. It can be a challenging combo to acquire, but with practice and preparation it comes with time. I had a racer tell me a long time ago that while RC oval racing you should only touch the steering wheel in two areas of a race and that's when driving it into the corner. Now, of course we have to steer or drive around other cars and avoid wrecks etc. But what he meant by that is the less you have to touch the wheel the faster the car. Any unnecessary steering corrections you make slows you down overall. It cannot always be avoided, but when you can, you want to drive it in and it should want to drive itself out as you ease off the wheel. Thank you for the support and comment!
Lots-a-beebs😂 Someone do a remix!
Love the vid
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it!
What does the 3rd blinky mode mean
Good question, it depends on which mode you are currently programming. If you just started, the first options would be the running model. The third blink would be forward with reverse. With 1 blink being forward with brake and 2nd bink being forward, reverse and brake. If programming manually by touch button, I highly recommend using the manual for reference as there are about 10 programable options. The manuals can be downloaded on your phone or printed off in PDF from the HobbyWing website. The program box simplifies the entire process as it gives you a detail of each item programming. I hope this helps.