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Sometimes you can use a stainless steel dentist pick to clear the solder filled hole. Heat the solder and insert the pick. The solder will not stick to the pick, which can then be removed leaving a nice clean hole.
SKANECT is a dead product in 2024 (per the website)
Just picked this up this week ignoring the deafening haters and its been just rock solid.
Great to hear that you’re happy!
So when i get more used to my Ender 3 Neo i am going to buy 0.2mm nozzle. Looks much better. Mine 0.4mm nozzle destroy anything thats smaller in size. For example i have tried to make few keychains, but they get ruined if they have little more detailes. It just starts dragging filament around ruining even parts that are somewhat good. Maybe i should print thin surface and start printing leychain on it, and not directly on bed. Now I'll have to try that 😂😂
I love mine! It just works. If you use the settings that are listed inside the machine you'll have a great print every time. I don't use Creality Print though. Orca is way better.
Creality spends more money on KZreadrs than on the product R&D 😂 how sad, they should be one of the best judging by how early in the game and how popular they are
Hello everyone! can anyone help me about how i can update the values of X, Y and Z axis's dimensions for dimensionally accurate prints, I have Kobra 2 Neo 3D printer. Please help!!!!!
Danke für deine Videos und deine Erklärungen, die haben mich immer weiter gebracht :) Keep it up!
Great video! Thanks!!
I am struggling to unscrew the wires in that little green bit. If anyone has any tips, they’d be helpful.
Can you test it without silcat direct behind the hygrometer?
What about the power supply silencer? air flow? Temperature? Any issues?
I belive it has something to do with the filment spools
I wonder how accurate the meter is mounted with the beads? I’m going to have to test this.
I have watched several K1C reviews, this was the most helpful by far.
Thank you so much! What did you find most helpful in comparison to others? I would love to hear!
great video! can you close it out next time saying "get to the choppa!"
Isnt going hotter going to increase your volumetric flow rate?
Can be used in outsides? For a plant scan in sunny day
Thad said, isn't it better to go for ender v3 SE? You have a Raspberry Pi instead of the nebula/screen , can install octoprint and every software you need *easy*. And if this some day breaks, you replace it with an other RPi, not expensive nebula-pads. What do you think? Oh, you said it at the end. What about maintenance-wise? Also, can the SE print materials like ASA, Nylon etc?
Essential upgrade - direct injection and springs for table. That's all
I would print a locking tool for that axis, it would make it that more easy
Daniel, where can I find that electronics case cover with the built in fan/vent? Thanks!
It was too fast. I slowed it down to .5 and was able to follow along mostly. My firmware shows up as Chinese but I installed English. I even check it but yup, Chinese on the screen... Should I delete the Chinese files in all of the folders and leave the English? Should I only have a single file on the SD card when I turn it on?
I wish they make an open frame version of this at lower price, I don't need an enclosed printer, I just need a fast corexy printer like the P1P
Waiting the test with 0,2 nozzle !!!! (And why not the new unicorn 0,2 nozzle thanks to the new Creality hotend)
I know it's an off-topic question... but does anyone know if the wifi/wireless features can be disabled and/or completely removed? Does it use a removable wifi card and can it be removed without any trouble? I have no use for wifi and would like to remove it altogether, so it doesn't end up becoming an unnecessary security problem.
You can disable creality cloud using the helper script guilouz.github.io/Creality-Helper-Script-Wiki/
Hello all, Does this work for the Ender 3 non pro version? Thanks
Hi , are the lid riser vents sufficient to keep the chamber temp down for printing PLA?.....
these arent resin quality at all
Ive been kinda thinking about making a case myself, but i dont know what the bare minimum requirements of a case is. As in what are the parts that are technically need to make something that could run and then build on that. This is such a simple design that i think showes that pretty well although id love to hear if u have any pointers for what the basic requirements are for them so i can try to play with them and expand on that
Thank you so much! Very helpful.
So..does it print one layer...park the head...take a picture...then print another layer.. Repeat? The fact the ship grows with no bluring of the print arm confuses me.
Yes
Can I still remove the nozzle if I have filament stuck in it? After a power outage while in the middle of printing and after the power came back on I noticed my filament not extruding.
Great video! Really helpful tysm!!!
Amazing👌
After having the V3 SE for 2 weeks, I'm already seriously eyeballing this printer. I think I should have gotten this one instead.
lol agree. I gave up on my V3 due to needing CONSTANT maintenance
Isnt there a screw at back of extruder to hold unicorn tight to heatsink?
Don't put silica gel in the holder with the hygrometer it will skew your readings since the sensor for the humidity is right next to the silica gel
Awesome video don’t know why it has so little views 😢😢😢
what voltage does the hot end fan use? 5v? 12v? 24v?
It took me two days to get it working. All because of a problem with the documentation. They show a toggle switch on the main diagrams. I saw the hole where the switch should have been, but there was nothing there. The setup routine on the printer did a test that always failed when heating the hotplate. Contacted support and they asked me to check the voltage setting switch. I couldn't find one. So, since the unit shipped with a standard US 115V power cord, I assumed (incorrectly) that the voltage must not be changeable. We do not use 115V cables for 230V connections! Several support contacts later and me checking all the internal cable connections, another support tech said to check the voltage setting and sent a photo with two big red arrows pointing at that hole in the side! Sure enough, after leaning the unit so I could see inside the hole, there was a voltage change switch that was set to 230V! It wasn't a toggle switch as noted on the diagram, but a sliding switch. Being very precise in my use of the English language, I was looking for a toggle. Also, nowhere else in the documentation was there any mention of that toggle switch or about setting the voltage. Two days wasted because of unclear documentation.
Hi @kennethewald1189, I've just checked in the "Quick Installation Guide" there's no mention of a toggle, it also says to use a flathead screwdriver. In addition, this type of switch is fairly standard in power supplies. 🤷 On the other hand, you need damn good eyes to see into the tiny hole on the side of the machine 🤣 I had a hard time! Personally, I had more trouble with the filament insertion step: "until you can't push it in any more". As soon as I felt resistance, I didn't dare go any further into the extrusion head, with the result that nothing came out when I printed.
@@TheMoye I don’t recall seeing a Quick Installation Guide. But, I don’t recall lots of things! 😏😏
@@kennethewald1189 👍🤣🤣
Nice review, thanks! Newbie interested in starting....Where does one get files to print. What are the extensions (name) of print files?
I usually get .stl files from places like thingiverse
Nice video! Learned a lot! Do you have the 0.2 nozzles link?
Creality Print 5.0 does enable the selection of materials, but still doesn't have the ability to select different nozzles. Bummer!
Indeed, time to switch to OrcaSlicer
@@Crosslink3D I have, but it doesn’t connect to the K1C by WiFi. USB stick kind of works though the K1C doesn’t have a way to cleanly eject it.
I purchased my SOVOL SV06 from the 2nd owner for a price I thought was attractive. Gosh it requires a lot of attention to keep it working. Today I noticed the extruder was wiggling. Not sure how much disassembly is required to fix the problem. Have 15 second video if you would like to see this. I am not a technician and could use any suggestions. Do you have a file uplink so I could send the video?
do you have to unlock the filament top part because mine was doing the actions but not actually spiting anything out.
I didn’t catch what type of material your useing in this build
this program wont work if you have a older mac you need M1 higher
Hi everyone, i'm using Prusa mk3s and PronterFace, it's connect fine, and echo back the value for M92, but when i'm write new value for X and Y, it's stuck at Sending M92 X100.. can someone help me?
I'm having trouble with 3d printer biqu b1 saying it's not connected. Can you help me?