Welcome to Noel's Retro Lab!
This is Noel, and I make videos about old computers repairing, restoring and, sometimes, enhancing them. I like to understand why things work exactly the way they do, so I'll often go on deep dives to figure out why something isn't working right or trying to make something better.
Donations of retro equipment are always welcome. If you'd like to donate something to the channel, you can contact me through Twitter, Discord, or the "business inquiries" contact feature on KZread below.
You can support Noel's Retro Lab on Patreon: www.patreon.com/NoelsRetroLab
I DON'T DO PAID REVIEWS. Product and sponsor policy noelsretrolab.com/reviewpolicy.html
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Hola Noel!! A qué temperatura aconsejas soldar? Y que estaño en concreto aconsejas? Saludos desde Málaga (Spain)
Plustek makes a book flatbed book scanner with the glass going all the way to the edge - it's more expensive than the Czur of Fujitsu ones, though. Image correction and OCR are software features so ...
I'll finally be able to scan the interviews in my Playboy collection! Also my early Wired and National Geographic and American Scientific collections - those last three I have because of the sassy images only, though.
I like your videos
Ebay eats the refund
A question on the audio in connection towards the TZXduino . Am I correct that you are using a mono female jack on the Audio-in signal ? What kind of cable are you using between the Audio-in and the TZXDuino output ? Stereo or mono ? Thanks for your very detailed video , it made it super easy for me to follow the required steps and perform the mod myself.
@Noel's Retro Lab Thank you so very much for this video on the things you need for electronic repair. Ive asked electronic repair people here on youtube and they want to keep these electronic repair tools a secret. Thanx to you, I now know what all other tools I need to fully start my electronic repair business. God Bless You
I owned the 48k (rubber keys) but swapped out the circuit board & installed it into a Fuller Keyboard. I was very interested in your video because you outlined the differences between the plus 128k & the plus 2 which I owned the Grey version. I always wanted the 48k plus but I understand the circuit boards from the 48k & the 48k plus are identical. Great video.
Los demás mortales daríamos lo que fuera por esa habilidad para comprender el sistema eléctrico de un ordenador. Felicidades eres un artista
Brilliant video as always
I absolutely hate the Kaiweets multimeter because of its stupid interface, such a pain to use.
Many many hours of my youth were spent playing Munch Man and Parsec! I had completely forgotten about Parsec until you showed it here. Then it all came flooding back. Thanks!
Missing a signal/function generator? My main interest in electronics is audio gear, but pretty sure it will be handy in your world as well.
Where do you go to access various schematics?
did it ever "run"? :D
Nice technique, but how to do clean trails?
Nice 1 essential & thank u
Hello, congratulations. I was wondering, how old are you? Until what age can the electronics hobby be continued? Thanks.
I went for a Ulifac instead of a Dandinator. That is basically the same price, but comes with serial, connectors for bluetooth/wifi, USB drive for quickly loading programs and 512kB of RAM so you can upgrade a 464 to be a 6128 with a virtual floppy drive. The idea is to put it inside, instead of on the cartridge slot. My CPC is a shortboard so plenty of room.
I found out you better go for the CPC 464. It is nicer looking. With a ULIFAC is basically becomes the same as a CPC 6128 for less money with better aesthetics. Now I only need to stuff the ULIFAC into the machine, it has plenty of empty space for it.
1:28 I don’t like that all the keys are mashed together. On both the CPC 464 and most Amigas, the keys are separated into “islands”. There’s much more of a touch aspect to finding the keys when they’re spaced out in clusters. Also, the uniform key colours aren’t too nice. I can see why some thing the colours of the 464 keyboard looks childish, but the 664 is a nice compromise.
I love it when Noel's like 'Come on Sinclair' when it comes to the cost-cutting measures Sinclair took to penny pinch and undercut their competitors to build their product.
too many bla bla bla
And? The purpose of it?
I've still got my CPC6128 packed away in a box. Haven't used it for years, but it was the computer that launched me into professional software engineering. One of the last things I did with the 6128 was to write an assembler in Z80 assembler that had a full screen editor with debugger that swapped out to disk to do assembly and used the upper 64k to store object code, then save them to disk, ready for running. It meant that all source code was read from disk files (with #include files) and assembled into memory, enabling a 38k contiguous program to be written - an early form of virtual use of memory! It was way better than the HiSoft assembler which stored itself, source code and object code in the low 48k all at the same time, thereby limiting the size of program you could write. My assembler was about 7k and the editor 3.5k. Happy days!
Kids today take computers for granted and will NEVER experience the amazement that we did when we unboxed our first home computer. Modern computers are OK, but for learning about the hardware, you can't beat these old machines.
Excellent video and explanation. Thank you!
Just ran across this video and the tape brande brought me back. All my ZX81 programs are on the same type brand (they came in packs of 5 with different colors). So cool! Fond memories of programming on my friend's TI99!
Depending on what you plan on doing, I would highly recommend a DIL IC remover for the hand tools. Sure you can pry them off with a screw driver, but you are a monster if you do.
Here in Europe things are really easy: get a tv, either CRT, LCD or Plasma from roughly 1990-2010, and you're set. The only ones a bit picky are the tiny ones, 14 inch or so, as they often only handle RGB and composite, not S-video, and some don't do 60Hz either. When I go up in size, 20 inch or more, basically every screen I try has 50/60 PAL/SECAM/NTSC compatibility and 2 or 3 SCARTs with both S-video and RGB. Some are really cheap. Especially a Panasonic Viera from 2008, or a Sony Bravia with wide-gamut CCFL and VA panel, are impossible to beat. They can be found in the range free to max 25 bucks. The only no-go is 16:9 100Hz CRT's. Ideally you go after a 20-27 inch Trinitron, but you spend more on those, maybe like 100 bucks. PVM's are not needed, they may look cool, but they easily fetch 200 bucks or more, where a Plasma delivers a much better image for a fraction of the price, and if you want small and cute, those 14 inch Trinitrons that usually do 25 bucks as well are perfectly fine. Maybe not the stellar geometry, but the scanlines and colours are beautiful, and much easier to carry around.
Nice to see both Pico-8 and Asprite. We love those tools. I do miss that no-one said enough is enough when it comes to assembly mnenomics. They suck. If I want to put 8 in register A I want to type A=8. Not LD, A, 8. Any recommendations to someone who made a sane assembler?
It's so funny... Serial speed to the support processor - "1152000 to be precise" - only off by a factor of 10 😆
My eyes are crossed and my head hurts from listening to the madness. 😵💫 I made the decision to use the 20 megahertz variant Z840020C (functionally identical to Z80) for my dream computer project and I've been stuck since. I've made some progress of a planned dirt-cheap video and sound system, but in paper form only. I have all the necessary components needed to build it (all modern, off-the-shelf parts made today), I just need some static RAM chips worth 64kb each bank, a clock divider for NTSC output and a blank 32k EPROM chip to house the core functions. Now I realize I may have made a mistake... help would be nice.
Thanks SO MUCH for using a proper CRT/scan-line mode. So many reviewers and so-called retro experts don't do this and so miss capturing the real look and feel of using these systems back in the day...
Why not change the BBC Micro plug to a EU (Type F/Schuko) one?
13:35 Did you make a video on this microscope? I saw one about cheap magnifying tools but not this optical stereomicroscope
Hi, is it safe to touch with fingers the cold wire of solder before soldering ? It contains lead, so should'nt we use gloves ?
That tool wall there, do you have a supplier for it? I've the same but can't find it locally any more. Thanks!
Noel, there is another thing you can explain of : what do the out (0xf0),a instruction? ok, that places 0xf0 on the lower A0-A7 bit, but guess what register content is going to A8-A15?
it should have been called out (BC),a instead of out (c),a. however, this behaviour could have conflicted with other instructions like otir with did another thing: they alter B register. So the BC address would have been unuseful after the first OTIR. It is better to only decode the lowest 8 bit of I/O
I just bought a Z80 CPU from 5hk1584 (one of your good vendors from the end of the video) and it was fake. I put acetone on the top, and my cotton swab turned completely black.
How good is it at identifying chips e.g. where the numbers have been sanded off?
I'm using gotek fully external driver without the df selector i have not touch any internal part of amiga and since some of the games are not booting from DF1 the external drive (gotek) i'm using the usb of the gotek and then move to phisical floppy with X-copy so i can boot from df0 without doing anything to my amiga. Ofc you need to have some working amiga floppies but this is the solution to not touch anything of amiga.
3:19 "modern components". The thing has VGA...