This channel is dedicated to tool making, metalworking, and any other wild ideas that pop into the mind of it's proprietor. After receiving my first Craftsman toolkit in 6th grade, I've been hooked on tools and all of the possibilities they present. Now that I have the ability to make them, the possibilities are endless. I will be making videos about the tools I am going to make and will include links to CAD files for each project. I have taken inspiration from other you tube machinists and I hope you find the information I provide useful, entertaining, or both.
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Robert, be sure to film making the T-handle stand...
I'll do that. Thanks.
They still sell those aluminum clamp lights at lowes and whatnot without the bulb ... when my wife needed a light box I bought a small pile of them for like 5 bucks each and threw some daylight LED Edison style bulbs in them (great value daylight 95 watt equivalent ) and spread them about, and all together we were drawing like 50 watts from the wall... Still have a couple in the shop here and there.. 7-8 bucks each its great over my 3dprinter / cnc engraver / toy lathe table
Amazing, but it makes sense. I think you found a great use.
Good one Rob . Bondhus T handles here are $ 23.83 ea for 6mm & $ 18.78 for 4mm . I just bought a couple from the industrial hardware shop ! That slitting saw looks like an expensive item to run with all of the inserts ! Cheers 👍
I am no longer surprised at the prices of anything in AUS! I only bought the slitting saw because it came with inserts. If it hadn't it would have been a much more expensive proposition.
In steels.. You can't get high hardness and still get good toughness. You can only get one or the other or somewhere in the middle/ a compromise of each. That's just how it is; they are a direct trade off. If the hardness was up in the 60's.. it would be brittle and snap off the tips easier. If you make them tough and flexible, then they can bend out of shape easier. It's just like a Katana, where you want the edge or tip to be hard, but the rest of the shank to be flexible. It's not an easy balance to get right. I bet your other Allens were on the harder side, which is why they twisted off the ball ends.. but if they make them too soft, then it will just round over and strip..
Very well said and so easy to understand as well. Perhaps you should try your hand at this kind of content. You are clearly a natural.
You can never trust chinese light ratings.. I never buy one without watching a video on it first. If no one has made a video about it, then I won't buy it. lol.. I've been burned too many times by being the Ginnie pig
I am right there with you. Lucky for you I have a light addiction that is almost as bad as my tool addiction. I call my wife a crow for being so attracted to sparkly things, but she always returns the favor pointing out my incontrollable fetishes.
The tool at 11:52 is a valve adjusting tool , it is designed to have socket on that square shank with the screw drive tip in the center. The arm with the socket releases the locknut while the driver in the center adjusts the valve clearance . 😉 !
That's really interesting. Thanks!!! I had no idea.
Like the reviews. Slitting saw looks interesting. Look forward to seeing a demo.
You and me both!
Great video, keep'um coming.
Thanks, will do!
I like that silting saw.. Hope to see a demo in a future video 👍👍
It was a neat find. I am excited to give it a try as well.
Can you give more information on the sitting saw? I’d like to try to find one! You said eBay, did I see in the video Valenite? Thanks for the video!
The cutter is a Valenite VSC 5 .122 1.250R inserts Valenite VIPV .130E .065 VC902
@@DudleyToolwright thanks!
Those T-handle Torx look real handy to use when changing inserts. I hate those little wrenches you get when you buy insert tooling.
The point of the little wrenches is to limit the amount of torque you're putting into the insert fastener. They are intentionally that size.
@@dumpsterdave3710 Only problem is when they come from the manufacturer so tight you can't get the screw or stud to loosen up. So you have to grab some larger ones just to change the insert.
I hate the little ones too. I have run across more than a few inserts held in by screws that were too tight for those little wrenches. I have also, however, broken or twisted more than a few torx wrenches.
a car wheel has individual nuts, a chuck has one scroll being turned no matter from which pinion. good question though.
Thanks for the info. I was specifically wondering why some chucks have one pinion and others have three. Coincidence, convenience, or are three better. but more expensive?
@@DudleyToolwright the strange thing is that many 3 jaw chucks with 3 pinions, including mine have one of the 3 that are better for concentricity than the other 2. mine is even marked thus with no marks at the other 2. I have discussed this with guys on machining websites and many have found the same to be true.
This an old video but the reason the cabinet is leaking at every joint and seam is he is not using a vacuum as designed. Essentially the cabinet is a pressure box every time the gun is used. Try removing the black plastic plug in the side or connector he vacuum to the same hole as recommended.
I appreciate the tips. In actuality there are two exit ports and only one is closed (The one on the left side when facing the window). The other is in the back and is designed to work with a filtration unit. It is wide open and is designed with a trap and sort of a venturi to allow grit to fall back into the unit.
My bride questioned at one point the "Need" for what I have in my shop. I smiled and guided her to the door of her Sewing room and before I could pose the same question, she asked if maybe I could use a snack.......................................and never brought it up again.
I love snaxks.
You are a brave man letting your wife in the workshop.
Funny, yea it could have really backfired.
Very nice to see the dogs. I used to make Martingale collars for my greyhounds using a heavy duty sewing machine on nylon webbing about 1-1/2 to 2” wide. Cutting the ends with a hot knife was enough to prevent fraying. I would think you might be able to do similarly with narrower material for leads to avoid having to double it back. BTW the hardware for leads (and sight hound collars) is readily available online.
Thank you very much and I appreciate the info. We use harnesses instead of Martingale collars.
nice drills......untill you have to sharper them ? cheers ben.
Definitely true. Re-Sharpening them would be very difficult to do off-hand or with a traditional setup.
I have a taiwanese Eumega mill that is with the same M marked below the head of the unit. Do you know what that might stand for?
That is really interesting, but no, I don't. I wonder if they copied or chare a casting mold?
@@DudleyToolwright I just found out it stands for Meehanite. A process for making cast iron. The more you know....
Use heat shrink on it
Heat shrink is a great idea, especially the stuff with the adhesive that melts when you heat it inside.
I wonder if you could get some strips of kevlar? That would slow the dogs down chewing leads in half.
Not a bad idea, if I could find some Kevlar that was wide enough.
Great video man, I had a coon dog years ago it was walker and whippet cross that dog could run down a coon or oppussom and come packing it back to you,lol 😂
Its a copy after a Hitachi jack hammer but the chinese made it even more powerful. Lately even Bosch got to steal the design for their newest, brushless jack hammers. Its extremely cheap but it worth every penny. A friend has one for about 10 years or so and used it to rral barbarian work and borrowed to all his friends. Only had to replace the brushes. Its a professional tool except it lacks the name brand.
That is really interesting additional information. Thanks for sharing it.
👍use a precision square off the table to the quill to get tram close then indicate. Saves a lot of time 🙂
Not a bad idea, thanks.
If the fixture needs to be trammed in, then maybe it is simpler to just tram the part. On most builds there is only one base plate but many plates can be trammed in the time it takes to remove / replace and retram the vise. I never remove my vise. In rare situations where I need to machine a long edge of a plate. I clamp a long piece of hollow section in my vise and G clamp the plate to it. This seems the quickest way, I don't have to remove the vise then put it back and re tram it in. I don't have to fish around for clamps and parallels, just put my trusty old piece of RHS in the vise and clamp the plate to it. If I need a backstop I clamp a couple of blocks between the fixed jaw and the RHS. For an endstop I may ream a hole in the RHS and fit a dowel. The RHS is sacrificial but lasts for years. On the odd occasion I may take a light skim off the top of the sacrificial box section but very rarely.
Your idea is a fine one, but I often need to square up half a dozen pieces of tooling plate and indicating each one in would be a pain.
Instead of lising the tram on the mill, you could use a sine plate or angle blocks on the vise.....
Thanks for sharing a different approach. I really appreciate it.
I scratched my head about the T slot layout on my Taiwanese mill until I realized it was made for 12mm studs & metric T nuts. If you chk your layout w/ 12mm studs, not 12.7mm, (½ = 12.7), & 16mm for nut width, instead of 15.9mm, (0.625 = 15.9 mm), you might discover it's more symmetric than thought. I can't remember the dimension of metric T-nuts; I've got 2 metric T-bolts which came w/ the mill & a mixed Te-Co/? ½" (eBay) used set. I've been thinking about a fence as well, but I was considering a semi-perm mount on the back flange of the table; something I can placed a rotary table against, to the R of the vise. Still figurin', tho.
I look forward to hearing about your approach. The Tee-Slots on this mill are all different, which makes it weird in any system of measurement. Hear about other's experiences, this seems to be a lot more common than one might think.
Awesome work. This is one of those projects that I find it hard to believe more people haven't done. I made a simpler version, using a piece of 1" wide, 1/4" thick precision ground bar stock. Drilled 3 clearance holes for 3/8-16 fasteners... The outer 2 are for bolting it to the table, the middle for the clamp for the vise. I made 2 clamps, one 1/4" shorter than the other, which rests on top of the fence, and is held down with the 3rd bolt. The fence is trammed parallel with the Y-axis of my mill. I use a "CNC-style" vise, which is flat on all sides. It has clamping slots along the long sides, and I machined additional clamping slots along the short sides, as well. This way, I can orient the vise in whatever direction I need, and know it's square without having to indicate it every time. I also machined clamping "ledges" on the base of my rotary table, so I can set that up in a similar fashion, again without having to indicate it in. The only issue is that the crank handle sticks out past the bottom and side faces, so it can only be oriented with the handle off the table. I plan on building a telescoping extension for the crank handle, so I can position the rotary table however I want, and just place the handle in a convenient spot. This setup, combined with my universal-head mill, allows an incredible amount of flexibility in setups.
Thanks. Simpler is often better and often a more elegant solution.
cute smile x
Thx.
Hi, Hope you dont mind my comments!! I'm surprised you've still got all your fingers! Please use a pointer of some sort, fingers make me go cold. By the way, I use turned buttons in the tee slots and clock over the two high points. Easy to make, turn them together and then part off, Best Regards Mike N
I never mind the comments, especially where safety is concerned. The biggest problem for the viewer is that the wide angle lens make different depths hard to discern. My finger was actually quite a ways from the cutter, but is caught me off guard when editing as well. I like the button solution as well. Simple is great and effective.
I was thinking the same about the finger and that rotating cutter.
Useless. Sorry.
No apologies necessary. Not every tool is for every one and you might have found a better solution. I have needed something like this for squaring large pieces of tooling plate, on more than on occasion. Taking advantage of the large X-axis travel was the only solution I had come up with.
That is a good bit of tooling . Worked out well . Cheers 👍
Thanks, Max. I have needed it for a while. Other people have suggested buttons, pins, keys, and the like instead of a large fence. I wonder what your approach would be to square up the edges of say a 15"x15"x1/2" piece of tooling plate?
I'm not sure _HOW_ intentional it was, perhaps it's just serendipitous, but basically every moment of this video is referencing and highlighting the Relativity of Precision. I'm choosing to believe this was your intent all along! Anybody obsessed with the myth of perfection, has clearly never attempted machining precision. Home hobby shops *_can_* pump out parts precise down to the nm (or beyond?), and industrial labs are capable of errors rendering theirs only useful as paperweights. When someone can spend a day or better dialing in precision, solar radiation and eddy currents in magnetic fields playing into measurement imprecision, and temperature of the work and measurement devices is measured in degrees Kelvin, how many people really just need to hear the word "Relax!"? We're on a relatively tiny marble, hurtling tens of thousands of kilometers/second through space, protected by a magnetic field, without which ambient and solar radiation would annihilate us all, sometimes it's nice to be reminded that all the precision we have is relative. *_"Ain't nothing, nor nobody, in this world "perfect"._* (I'm aware of the grammatical errors in this statement.)
I haven't read that book, but now I'm looking for it. Sage words.
Mill one side square. Stand the part up on the squared side. Run your endmill on top. Then grab the now parallel edges in the vice and finish the last two sides in one op. What the hell man
Fair enough, but that method doesn't really work with a 20"x20"x1/2" piece of tooling plate though. When I made my 6"x48" belt sander from scratch, I had a lot a big plates to square up.
Over the past several years l have designed a number of Tooling Items (1) designed to fit a couple of Precision Matthews milling machines. Amongst them are several types of Alignment Keys and Stops. One thing l would recommend for Alignment Keys is to have surfaces on each side of the portion that goes in the Tee Slot. The surface does not need to be very wide on the side the work will go against. The other side can be as wide as you want. As there is no real loading placed on the Alignment Key during operation it does not need the largest Tee Nut that fits in the slot. Also keep the overall height as short as possible. Additionally the side that work will be positioned against should be finish machined in situ. 1) Up and including Indexing Tables, Tilting Tables, Sine Tables, Adjustable Angle Fences with Vernier Scales, Table Stops, Tool Holders for doing Slotting Work.
I like the ideas. Thank you. My Kurt vise has alignment keys and I still need to tram that in as well.
@@DudleyToolwright Are you using just the vise or the base as well? I've thought that a vise base could make a really low index table.
Nice! I have a Taiwan made mill with 12"-54" table it's a very well made machine, now I've got to make myself one of those, great video, keep'um coming..
Thanks. I love the table space you have available. There never seems to be enough.
Not looking to come off as a know it all or a smart ass here. But have you ever looked closely at that spindle taper for the R8 collets ? I wonder if it is not cut to the proper taper causing your tooling to pull out? I only say this because my Taiwanese mill had some damage when i bought it new and it too was having issues holding the tooling and a far more experienced machinists caught that recommended I check mine. I did and he was right it was off by only .0006” after I re-ground it I haven’t had any issues with even the larger tooling pulling out. ( well at least when I remember to lock everything down properly 😂) But I just wanted to share my experience with you. Enjoyed the video man. Have a great day.
I definitely appreciate that insight. Thank you. I have checked my spindle for runout in the past, but you might be on to something there. Great advise.
I always take a cut off the surface of my cross table squaring fixture after it is bolted to the table and before I put my part edge against it. That way I know that it is true to the Y axis. It has a sacrificial face that is screwed to it and is replaceable that sits approximately an 1/16” off the table so that there is no corner between the face and the table for a burr or swarf to collect in. No keys are needed with this method.
There is always the question of just how true the Tee Slot is to the Tables travel in X and perpendicular to the Travel in Y. When l was still working we had two main types of milling vices we used. The basic Kurt vises and a brand that isn't sold any more. The second brand was machined around it's entire perimeter allowing it to be mounted on its side. Plus the fixed jaw was in the front. There are advantages here. For the same maximum opening the vise took less space than a Kurt. With the fixed jaw in front the cutter is almost always on the other side of the part. If your hand slips when pacing the part in the vise, it moves towards you. Not the cutter. Sold as the CNC Quad 1 Vise iirc. Also the fixed jaw was not keyed to the vise body. The jaw is an L shaped element that bolts to the body vertically thru the body base surface and horizontally thru the base end face. Minimal to no jaw movement went clamping as to the vise screw being carried in the fixed jaw itself. These vises were not a commercial success. Mainly due to cost, limited availability and the age old it's different attitude. IIRC the only US seller was SPI. One thing l did to the vises was mount them to the mill table upside down with the fixed jaw against the front of the table. I then milled slots for the hold down screws (4) and key slots with tapped holes. This was done after checking tee slot and front face for Axis parallelism. Mounting the vise took only a minute or two.
Someone else recommended something along these lines and the idea is really intriguing. Thanks for sharing it.
Very interesting tooling. Thanks for sharing it. I am never tired of hearing about different approaches to solving machining problems.
I suggest that the middle key is redundant and it over constrained the part which led to everything needing to be remachined looser in the tee slots. Perhaps a central shallow slot accurately machined in the base could hold a much longer tenon that will align perfectly without tramming in. Clamp down with two outside tee nuts.
You make an excellent point about the middle key. I wanted the Tee-Nut connection there, because the clamps were pulling on the entire bar, but that doesn't mean that it needs a key.
One more possible use for this - could bolt it to the bottom of a small rotary table, or fixture plate - then you can hold it either flat or at an angle in the mill vise, for small jobs.. I do this with a small rotary table.. saves removing & re-installing the mill vise.. might need to add some smaller threaded holes that fit the rotary table attachments..
That's a really good idea. Thanks!
Very nice work sir. Good tool
Thank you for taking the time to comment.
Yes my Taiwanese turret mill has the three TEE slots unequally spaced e.g. 23.81 against 25.55mm apart - it only causes slight irritation but in this case it's useful to ensure that the fence goes on the table with the same orientation each time it is used! Personally I would have used a small file and scraper to make the item fit snugly - it doesn't need to slide so the fit can be tight and the final squaring up can be done in situ.
Thanks for the info and your take on the best approach. I was on the fence (pun intended) about the fitment and after trying to slide the fence down the Tee slots and having it bind up a bit, I decided on the more work later approach. I have to accept that I will have to indicate this guy in, every time I use it, but fortunately the adjustment is pretty quick as the range is small.
Interesting tool for your arsenal. 👍
Thanks, Tom. I have needed something like this on too many occasions to ignore the issue any further.
@@DudleyToolwright Looks like a good solution to handling your over sized plate projects.
Hi Dudley. I took a different tack with this when I made mine. I have it raised from the table by 0.125”. I didn’t go through all the trouble you did. Three holes for the screws. But I really wasn’t concerned with precision when making it. When I installed it, I indicated it the way you do with a vise and got it pretty parallel. But then I finely machined the surface parallel, on the machine. I didn’t bother to machine the back, as it’s not needed. But the other difference is that it doesn’t span the slots. It’s along the rear slot. I use Miti Mite clamps to hold the work along the work. I can move the clamps around to machine the sides.
Thanks for sharing your approach. I almost skipped the keys completely. My problem historically, was that I did not have a parallel that would even fit for this purpose and had to really Jerry-rig a solution every time.
No, don't take more off!!! (around 19:00) Well, its situations like that where I am tempted to get out a blue sharpie & spot where its really touching, then maybe file or scrape it down to fit everywhere - maybe spotting in the slots holding it perpendicular with a machinist square you trust.. that's the way to really take up the whole evening, if not several... if you are not tramming it parallel to cross travel, probably best to have it bottom out on just one of the 6 side faces, in one direction, & tune that face so it sits as true as possible in the place you are most likely to use it on the mill table.. was also thinking, could make a longer key that sits in a slot in place of one of the projections (but cut to hang out below the table surface) that you fit to be perpendicular, & hold it in place in the corner with an angled screw (of course then the thing takes up more room on the shelf).. although wouldn't be able to put a holddown bolt into the slot that had the special key.. always more ideas... ok, now I better watch the rest, & see what you really do! Great gadget, & thanks for sharing this.
I almost left the really snug fit, but I didn't want to take my mill vise off the table and try this fence everywhere. I feared that this being a fairly inexpensive mill would lead to issues later, so I opted for the tram it in every time option. I definitely see your point.
OR you could just buy a 2 piece vice and not have any b.s. with clamps 🤷♂️
I didn't even consider this option and now I will. Thanks for the great suggestion.
@@DudleyToolwright that's because you are a goofball that has no business influencing others.
I was thinking the T-Nuts would not lock up.. I have something similar, but lower, and it's an L shape. Turn it one way and it's just for setting it on X or Y, turn it the other way and it holds it in X and Y on the table so you get fully registered. But it does not have stud holes for mounting clamps..
Thanks for the feedback. I had gotten hit by this problem once before and should have remembered. I thought the Tee slots were deeper.
great idea. came out super nice
Thank you! Cheers!
Robert I will not be cheeky in this comment and get myself in trouble ! Do you have Australia native plant in your backyard to they suit your climate. That is a great fixer your made it will help in many set-up. Kit from down under
Spam, but I can’t imagine for what purpose, but I’m seeing similar all over. Sometimes there are several posts pretending to talk to each other with someplace you can click to go where they can do something to you you won’t want.
Not in my back yard, but my entire front yard is Australian native. In southern California, it is rapidly becoming essential to watch every drop of water used.
Could this be the beginning of AI spam?
@@DudleyToolwright Western Australia has the best range of native plants and it has the dryers climate it the country . The society for growth native plants is one of best sources of information.
I had this same exact thought that it would be nice to replace the flat head screw with a thumb screw. Would you make another for me and sell it?
This knife broke a while back. I used it every day at work and have moved on to a different model. I have since, discovered other style knives like this that don't require tools for a blade swap and manage to hold the blade securely.
I've got one over my lathe, 14' ceiling, great light..great video, keep'um coming..
I really appreciate you sharing your personal experiences with this light. Thanks for taking the time. Evaluating a single sample is nowhere as useful as getting feedback on man different installations and how the lights perform, especially long term.