As another viewer has noted, the plating process tends to require line of sight between the zinc anode and the areas of the part that you want to be plated. The ideal is have surface of the the zinc anode entirely surrounding and equally distant from all the surfaces of the part. Obviously, it is not practical to achieve that ideal setup, however, if the setup departs too far from that, the process may not work, as was illustrated with the interior of the first part. In the semi-enclosed areas of the part, there will be little electric field to drive the plating process. So, for that somewhat hollow part that wouldn't plate internally, try arranging extra small zinc anode centrally within the hollow space of the part. Given the short distance between that extra anode and the internal surfaces you will have to dial back the current to avoid the fury zinc deposit problem. Good video. Cheers

@eddavis7975

2 ай бұрын

A❤😊

@Xiph1980

Ай бұрын

It's not so much line of sight, but equal (distance/potential) values. Edges and other protruding regions on the item to plate carry a higher change than the general mass of the object without an anode to start with. Add the anode where halving the distance between anode and object quadruples the charge, this effect gets even stronger resulting in a much heavier zinc layer on protrusions. You can somewhat mitigate this by adding a stirrer of some kind to the plating bath.

Zinc anodes will turn black during the plating process. You would normally place a zinc anode into a Anode filter bag.

Place the anode or anode in the middle of your box that way the current will be in the center of your box I'm trying to learn how to electric plate and you have done a great job describing how to make sure you come out with a good results to my opinion I'm sure that if you put power inside of that box it will cover as well as it did on the other sides.

Skip the pump and get a aquarium air pump insted. Works just fine. And for zink you can buy zinkanodes for boats and use them

As always, a great video. The best content providers as yourself, show the Good, The Bad, and the Ugly. I will be watching the comments to see the input from your viewers. Thank you for all of time you take to provide us Neophytes.

Thanks for posting both your successes and failures. Very educational video. Thanks for the information and links.

I'm starting to dabble in zinc plating myself, restoring a few rare parts. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for all the tips! I just reccomend that you focus on the fluid dynamics of your system, since, together with electromagnetic forces (?) it's the advective flow that will carry all the ions to the piece you are plating!!! My best regards!

Thanks for the transparency, one thing I did notice is after you dip your part in hydrochloric acid, you need to dip it into a water/baking soda solution. That will neutralize the acid. Best of luck

instead of a straight anode, I recommend rolling it into a cylinder around the edge of the bucket.

Try putting a filter around the zinc anoide to help stop the crux bits, maybe a coffee filler. I have no experience in plating but going to give it a go. Keep up the good work.

For better uniformity, hang a bolt at each threaded hole and connect all bolts to a separate copper wire, then connect each copper wire to your copper pipe. The problem is that electrons want to flow as far from each other as possible and thus accumulate at the edges. You need to get the electrons propagating from the "hidey-holes".

The first time I zinc-plated was when I was a kid in the 70's. I got zinc from dead flashlight batteries the cases are made of zinc. I put my battery charger on 6 volts I think. I was amazed at how well it worked and I didn't know what I was doing.

ok , I've done a little zinc , copper and nickel plating and I think you have 2 things affecting your results , 1 you need to load up the electrolyte with zinc ions first - turning the solution into zinc acetate . hook one zinc anode and one zinc cathode up in the solution with no part involved and plate from one to the other for an hour or two then reverse the polarity and plate back to the other totalling maby 6 to 8 hours , this puts the zinc in to solution ready to plate all surfaces immediately with the anode 1. replacing zinc ions real time with ones being deposited onto the part and 2. being (well) the anode. second is I think your mix is off , 1. I'd try more like 2:1 vinegar to water maby even 3:1 and 2. reduce the epsom salt by half at least maby only 1/3 - the epsom salt is there to make the solution more conductive and I believe the (crystaling) burning on the edged are from the current being to high exacerbated by the overly conductive solution. with plating balancing the the solution is important and slow and steady wins the race , your prep work is absolutely perfect the problem is all what's in the bucket and the current it is plating at

@RedlineStands

4 ай бұрын

Sounds plausible. I'll give it a try and make another video if I find something that works well.

We have a couple of electroplating shops around, but none will do the job for an adequate price. It's almost like everyone is trying to hit a jackpot and become a millionaire on you! The prices are on the edge of ordering a refurbished or brand-new part.

in the alkaline zinc plating process, DOHENYS FLOCCULENT can be used to shine the zinc plating and after the passivation process, get that iridescent appearance. Could you test if it also works for acid zinc plating? Unfortunately here in Brazil they use aluminum in similar products and I believe that aluminum will affect the cleaning of the solution. Look for the "DIY Bright Zinc Plating" video to see the amount of flocculant.

i think you need to charge your electrolyte with more zinc ions before you plate.' you're trying to drag out too much zinc from the anode to make up for it. thus, burning the edges and getting a crusty finish. i only use an old phone charger. that's about 3 volts and it's rated in milliamps. its slow to Coate and comes out very good surface finish nice flat silver color. but no shiny Crome look like Caswells kits give you. if i need shiny i polish the part

Exlent teaching.

Great video thank you

I watched another video and the guy put the same amount of suger as salt into the brine, this apparently stops the bild up on the edges. good video cheers.

Plating works by line of sight. If you are not getting plating on all parts of the part then that part doesn't have line of sight with zinc.

20:04 the shortest way between anode and part. collect dust with a balloon rubbed on your hair, you will understand. use 4 anodes + one inside your part.

VERY helpful video!! How long do you typically leave the parts in the mixture?

@RedlineStands

5 ай бұрын

It's different every time depending on how the part looks. 15-45 minutes

Good video just one suggestion is let zinc sit in solution for a day then do it. It devolves in solution

Try using Sulfuric acid instead of acidic acid. It's a little more dangerous but will give you more throwing power. The zinc ions don't like to plate in recessed areas. You could try building off of your hanger a cage that mimics your recessed areas. Not touching the part of course. Also, I would suggest hanging the part directly and moving it throughout the process. otherwise, your threads will not plate and rust will start there and propagate out.

@MrHamman1111

Жыл бұрын

FYI , sulfuric acid and zinc will create Hydrogen gas. Be careful if you do try it.

Question for you @redlinestands - could you do this type of zinc plating, but on the inside of a gas tank, after you have acid cleaned it etc, to stop it rusting? Instead of having something sitting on a wire in a plastic bucket of solution, have the tank as the electrified part, solution inside it, and zinc plate the inside of the tank? Thanks

@RedlineStands

3 ай бұрын

Idk man. Tbh, you're just asking the wrong guy. I definitely don't consider myself a professional on this topic.

Good job bro

Wow, I don’t have your patience which is why I just use zinc color spray paint😂

Try using 4 pieces of zinc evenly spread.

thank you

Is it possible that instead of using Epsom salt you could use washing soda which is what a lot of people are using. I cant get washing soda in my country or I just can't find it so I make my own I learned in a couple of KZread videos. I buy baking soda and spread it evenly on a baking tray. Cook in the oven on 200c for 30 minutes to evaporate all the water out of it and the result is washing soda after 30 minutes in the oven. You might need to shake the tray half way through cooking it if you have a lot on the tray and you don't need to add anything at all to the tray while cooking. HINT: If you place a baking sheet of paper on the tray and put the backing soda on the sheet then when cooked it is easier to roll it up and funnel it into the container you want to keep it in

your problems are easy : less plating insides concave parts (low current density area) = need more zinc ions/salts in the solution. burning on part edges (high current density area) = need less current. for a more uniform deposite in acid zinc plating, you need a complexing salt. most popular acid zinc formula are based on zinc chloride, and potassium chloride complexing agent. for a shine plating you should use a surfactant, SDBS is very good. acid bath are good for build-up tickness plating, alkaline bath have a better throwing power. before imerge your part into the chromate passivating solution, you need to imerge the part into a dillute nitric acid solution.

@RedlineStands

Ай бұрын

Would you mind to post the formula for making these solutions? It sounds like you know what you're talking about, but without specifics on how to follow your suggestions, I'm not sure I'll be able to use this info. Thanks Gaulix69.

@gaulix69

Ай бұрын

​@@RedlineStands there are free patent online. do some try in google : -"zinc potassium chloride plating solution free patent" -"zinc sulfate plating solution free patent" -" alkaline zincate plating solution free patent" You ll find your happiness. and check and understand all electroplating words, electro cleaning, acid dip activator, throwing power, low and high current density, surfactant, wetting agent, complexing agent, leveler, current density etc... you need to understand what going on, and listen electro-chemistry if you want repetable sucess. Good luck in your work.

I personally use a 14v 4A car battery charger and recently I copper plated a 4 inch vise😂😂😂

About those edges over-plating @18:37 it is said that electric fields are stronger on sharp edges. Maybe that is the reason for the plating material being attracted more towards the edge of the plate?

I bet the edge effect you are seeing is because of the plasma cutting torch hardens the metal.

*You just need an Air Bubblier and air-stone!*

wouldnt you have to double your amps with two anodes?

@occamsrazor1285

Жыл бұрын

That doesn't double the amperage, it divides it BUT you're on the right track. You ever seen a lightning bolt? Or lightning in a jar? Those science experiments? The bolts look like a delta. The high the amperage, the greater the "tendrils" (spurs) BUT it's never more than a 45 degree angle. Issue is "light of sight" coverage. Also called "shadowing". He needs another anode that has line of sight to that portion of the part.

Put the zinc anode in the Center of the part

if you do not want a yellow finish , do you just not dip into Yellow chromate solution ?

@RedlineStands

4 күн бұрын

Correct. The yellow chromate just makes the plating more resilient

Simply unplug the pump before you stick a probe in it. No danger.

LIKE👍👍👍👍👍 💯💯💯 😻😻😻😻

Wow your really not good at this process yet

@pcexpress911

Жыл бұрын

Lol ...😂

@fvrrljr

3 ай бұрын

@@zacsdiyguns his grammar is not "very good looking" either

Instead of a pump, use an equarium bubbler for circulation... No moving parts or stray current.