Actually, the screws do wear out... When I bought a new belt for my Vector, I got the same symptoms where the belt sqeaks on idling. The sled had only about 4500km at that time, so there wasn't much wear at the plate. Removing the washers under the screws helps of course (and I tried it at first), but I was told that you should always replace the screws when installing a brand new belt. So, I did just that and it fixed all my issues with it.

The ramped piece is called a helix The plastic wear ramps are often called buttons. Flipping the wear plate is a great idea. Good thinking. If someone has a SRX 600 or 700. There's a good chance you won't see the 3, 8mm adjuster bolts, there's a windage tray over the fan part of the clutch for higher speeds n less resistance from the cooling fans. Over all great explanation

Excellent video. You have impressive knowledge of the clutch on this older sled. Thank you for sharing.

Great video. I’m having the same problem on my 97 mountain max and I’m going to try this

Very well explained thanks for the video

Your the man!

theres also numbers on those clutches, yours was at 1 on the bottom of the spring, and 6 on the top, that is the degrees of preload I believe, 1+6=70 degrees of preload, I think factory would have been 1+3... don't quote me!!

If you add washers the sheaves get closer and the belt rides higher. Your bolts are worn and need to be replaced.

Are those special washers or where do I get them. I noticed when my belt was new it was slightly above now it's sitting down in a bit prob still within spec.

To remove clutch bolt is right to tighten left to loosen

@janeycookevogt8703

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Good to know

@Hometown6112

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@@janeycookevogt8703 not always