Wiring a Tiny House Sub Panel

This is the second video in our tiny house electrical series. In this video I walk you through my subpanel and talk about why we made some of the electrical choices we did.
NOTE: WE ARE NOT LICENSED ELECTRICIANS, ALWAYS HAVE A LICENSED ELECTRICIAN CHECK YOUR WORK BEFORE CLOSING UP YOUR WALLS. If you are an electrician and you spot errors in this video, please point them out in a constructive way in the comments.
For more tiny house videos and resources, check us out at actuallytiny.com or on instagram / actuallytiny where we post a daily build blog and time lapse videos of all of our work!

Пікірлер: 64

  • @mountainwave666
    @mountainwave6664 жыл бұрын

    Googled "How many circuits do I need in my tiny house" and went down an Actually Tiny rabbit-hole. This stuff is great and both of you do a fantastic job delivering a ton of information in short videos. Top notch educational content. Thanks for putting in the effort to share this stuff.

  • @msphotographyfilmproductio3184
    @msphotographyfilmproductio31844 жыл бұрын

    Wow, that's an EXCELLENT video! Very very clear information, best video I've found on how to wire up my tiny house panel. Thanks so much

  • @A.TAYLOR
    @A.TAYLOR3 жыл бұрын

    I’m planning to build a tiny house. This was soooo helpful! Probably one of the more clear and best videos I’ve watched on wiring a tiny house.

  • @annhysell6064
    @annhysell60644 ай бұрын

    Excellent video. Thank you for the education, time & effort editing this. In planning stages now, plan to build my tiny house next summer and its been awhile since I wired a house!

  • @bagpiperburke
    @bagpiperburke4 жыл бұрын

    Wow! I have searched high and low for info on wiring a sub panel for my tiny house. It seemed that one video had "this" bit of good info but skipped "this" bit of info, so on to the next video which did the same thing. Your video, however, was very well thought out and put together. Incredibly helpful! Thank you so much for sharing! I've now subscribed and am following you on instagram. Again, thanks a bunch!

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    4 жыл бұрын

    This is exactly why we do what we do. You spend soooooo much time trying to piece together information otherwise. We make the videos we wish existed.

  • @chuckbelliveau1899
    @chuckbelliveau18993 жыл бұрын

    I liked that was a nice video explain through well I’m a general contractor myself that was well done I’ve seen a lot of people do it and not quite as clear and precise as you did so someone is trying to learn could follow you very well I enjoyed that very much thank you

  • @dianethorn8912
    @dianethorn89123 жыл бұрын

    Your presentation is perfect.Thank you.Steve Thorn

  • @trevorrockey5640
    @trevorrockey56403 жыл бұрын

    Keep up the good work! I would love to see more explanation/ tutorial videos!!

  • @KevinCoop1
    @KevinCoop13 жыл бұрын

    Great Video! Very well explained! On thing your viewers should know, you should never plug your land line plug into a live receptacle. The breaker should be turned off, plug installed and connected to house, then breaker turned on. Otherwise you will get an arc every time you plug in damage over time.

  • @Lemonhead85
    @Lemonhead854 жыл бұрын

    Fantastic work.

  • @BillyRocco1
    @BillyRocco13 жыл бұрын

    Hi Brian. Great tips and very thoughtful explanations. I think that you implied that one hot lug powers the left breakers and one hot lug powers the right breakers. I just purchased this same subpanel and realized that each lug supplies power all the way across the row, every other row, rather that left right division.

  • @jefftorgerson4369

    @jefftorgerson4369

    7 ай бұрын

    What name of the subpanel ?

  • @leonardobonacci8238
    @leonardobonacci82384 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much! Amazing video!!

  • @steffenmutter
    @steffenmutter3 жыл бұрын

    Well, I am happy to reside in Germany. Our power suppliers deliver 230 volts which is certainly more dangerous than 120 - but you really need to have an expert to do the installation (or be one). For mobile homes there are certain rules you have to follow. All cables must be wire lines. 16 amp + wires must run trough a cable trench. I'd use silicone isolated wires to be safe (no need to). Residual current protective devices must be installed in new installations here. You can do it with a single one - but i would recommend one for every 'room' like bath/living room/bedroom and one for the 'emergency' lights. Just my thoughts - I really appreciate sharing your experience even if some things are not usable here, overseas.

  • @ChandraBrooks
    @ChandraBrooks3 жыл бұрын

    For me, what was helpful about this video, was that I know that there is a lot of difference between how people function in alternative living constructions, but I couldn't articulate it when this electrician gave me a ridiculous quote which was highly formulaic and didn't seem to make sense with how I'm living. After watching these 2 videos of yours, I'm still in no way considering wiring myself, but if I found someone retired or something who needed nimble fingers to work with, I'd really like to at least hold their tool belt!

  • @AltivatedElement
    @AltivatedElement3 жыл бұрын

    This was the video I needed

  • @enderpiyale
    @enderpiyale3 жыл бұрын

    Underrated channel

  • @MaximC
    @MaximC2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you, Brian.

  • @mackie4323
    @mackie43234 жыл бұрын

    I like how your priority is safety and not just wire the house for the heck of wiring it.

  • @InsideSanJuandelSur
    @InsideSanJuandelSur3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks JP!

  • @heroknaderi
    @heroknaderi2 жыл бұрын

    Very detailed information ℹ enjoyed watching.😁😎👍

  • @kai6424
    @kai64246 ай бұрын

    can you do a short on how you wired the RV disconnect to the sub? And you would only need an adapter if you didn't want 240?

  • @spiritsoulheartsinhand22
    @spiritsoulheartsinhand2211 ай бұрын

    Where can I get the surface mount 240 50 amp configuration. I can’t find any of the ones that come out to where you can enter into the wiring later on.

  • @nicola3060
    @nicola30603 ай бұрын

    This is amazing . Thank you for explaining so simply for me 😂

  • @rbishop12399
    @rbishop123995 жыл бұрын

    looks great

  • @Amy-yw7br
    @Amy-yw7br Жыл бұрын

    I love you man. Thank you.

  • @michaelrodriguez1686
    @michaelrodriguez16863 жыл бұрын

    These videos have been super helpful in my tiny house electrical preparation. I installed the same inlet box and Eaton subpanel! I'm stuck on mapping out the smoke detectors circuit and was hoping you could provide some guidance. I'm reading that smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors can't be on a circuit with a AFCI/GFCI breaker. If there was an electrical fire, it would trip the AFCI breaker and stop power to your detectors. According to NEC 210.12(A), I can use a protective conduit on the home run to the detector to avoid nails damaging the wire. I could also use this system to install an AFCI/GFCI outlet and protect all outlets downstream of it on the circuit. I believe Jake from Tiny Nest did something similar and used AFCI/GFCI receptacles instead of breakers but he doesn't address the alternative in their videos as far as I can tell. I like the idea of the combination breakers but they're +$50 each and take up an entire space. I want to be able to use tandem breakers to conserve space. Appreciate any feedback or advice on the approach!

  • @seymourscagnetti1413

    @seymourscagnetti1413

    3 жыл бұрын

    I JUST WATCHED AN EATON VIDEO EXPLAINING AFCI OPTIONS. YOU HAVE TO USE AN AFCI RECEPTACLE IN CONJUNCTION WITH AN APROPRIATE AFCI BREAKER, ACCORDING TO EATON. SEEMS COUNTER INTUITIVE TO ME, BUT THIS IS THE INFO FROM EATON.

  • @beotheguitarist
    @beotheguitarist4 жыл бұрын

    Fantastic detailed video! I love how you explained everything. Quick question though, if it's a 125A panel shouldn't the main feed wires be #2? Or do you consider this a 50A (#6 wire) panel because you have the 50A RV plug outside? Thanks!

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    4 жыл бұрын

    The latter is correct. The circuit is limited by the connection size.

  • @spicher40
    @spicher402 жыл бұрын

    Could I put a oven and hot water heater in this system?

  • @mollyrogers2111
    @mollyrogers21113 ай бұрын

    Where does the 6/3 cable go from the box?

  • @andydouglass1374
    @andydouglass13742 жыл бұрын

    Really good video; concise and to the point. I noticed your load center does not have a main breaker. I am going to be powering a "non-permanent" shed from a 50a RV pedestal. Connection will be with a 50a RV cord to 50a power inlet to indoor load center inside the shed. The RV pedestal has a 100a breaker (it has 50a, 30a, and 20a outlets on it). I am feeding the RV pedestal from a 90a breaker in our main meter/panel (feeder wires are 100a MHF, but code requires it be protected by 90a breaker when it is not feeding a permanent structure). I am trying to figure out if I should have a main disconnect in the shed load center, but I see you don't. I have limited electrical experience but my instinct tells me there should be a main breaker accessible inside the shed, rather than relying on disconnecting the RV cord or hitting the main breaker in the RV pedestal (both of which are outside). What are your thoughts on this?

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    2 жыл бұрын

    The only thing a breaker at the subpanel would do is give you a slightly quicker disconnect for working on circuits in there but if you’re working on the circuits you can just unplug the cord. Electricity feeding from the outside can’t overload the circuits on the inside because those are protected with their own breakers but it could potentially overload the wire going to your sub panel which a sub panel breaker wouldn’t help with. In the right place for a large breaker in that situation is going to be at the pedestal and sized for The rating of the wire between the pedestal and the subpanel.

  • @juanclopez8344
    @juanclopez8344 Жыл бұрын

    what if i want to use solar panels system, how can i connect it to brake panell

  • @timwynia
    @timwynia3 жыл бұрын

    Any update on governing of the building of tiny houses? This is 2 years old.

  • @pennyturner6596
    @pennyturner65962 жыл бұрын

    Excellent! I agree with all of the positive comments! I can’t believe you don’t have more followers and more views! I have looked and looked and can’t find the first video though! Can you help me to locate it?

  • @ryanboyer7228
    @ryanboyer72283 жыл бұрын

    If you're using a plug on neutral panel, you do not need the pig tails and cleans up the wiring a good bit in the panel. YMMV on what you have available and what works for your space. I've not seen one this small, so possibly not an option.

  • @user-qu3fp8eq2u
    @user-qu3fp8eq2u4 жыл бұрын

    Hi Brian! Thank you for this video! Just wanted to make sure if I understood you correctly concerning 50 amp service. Am I correct: if I have two separate 120v lines coming into my tiny house sub panel ( one line to each of two main lugs), in this case I can have 220v loads inside tiny house since these 220v circuits will be using both 120v lines “simultaneously” as long as it’s connected to the correct outlet ( 50 amp 120/240 outlet with two hot wires). Is this understanding correct? Thank you in advance!

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    4 жыл бұрын

    That's right, but you can't use an RV pigtail to adapt your 50A plug to a 30A plug because that would place both your hots in the same phase. This usually isn't a problem with RVs because an RV panel is still only running 120V loads on the two out of phase legs. If using a pigtail you have to disconnect and 240V loads. The cool thing about most tank water heaters is that they can run 120 or 240 by switching the other hot to the neutral bar.

  • @mikeyfrommichigan8420
    @mikeyfrommichigan84203 жыл бұрын

    Just curious what would the issue be from a 50 to 30 amp adapter? Would this change the whole sub panel to a single phase wouldn't that trip the appliance breaker that requires 240? And how does a RV AC / DC panel differ would that stop this from happening?

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    3 жыл бұрын

    An RV AC DC panel is just a panel that combines both your DC wiring junction and your AC feed but they don’t communicate. The issue with the adapter is exactly what you said that it changes the entire panel 120V on the same phase. The way a 240 V appliance works is that the two hot legs are in opposite phases and so what is effectively happening is that every 1/60 of a second the polarity reverses and you can think of it as the opposing phase becoming the neutral wire for the other phase, except it’s even more efficient than that because as one side is pushing the other side is actually pulling the electrons. This is why 240 V does not need a white neutral wire. But if suddenly you use an adapter and both of those wires are on the same phase then essentially there’s nowhere for the current to go and that can create a major hazard depending on the appliance. Water heaters are interesting though because you can actually remove one of the hot wires and route it to the neutral bar and it will run on 120 V albeit less efficiently, (most are actually rated to do this and come with wiring instructions) which is what we would do if we had to plug into 120 V with an adapter. It’s a bit of a confusing subject I hope that makes sense. Let me know if I explained it well enough.

  • @seanstinch4104
    @seanstinch4104 Жыл бұрын

    Use a rachet with a screwdriver bit for the ground bar

  • @LaughingblueSu
    @LaughingblueSu3 жыл бұрын

    I don't understand when you would take a 50 amp plug and use a 120 volt adapter. Is this for connecting to a 30 amp service?

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    3 жыл бұрын

    50A is 240V, an adapter would be for when you only have access to 120V service.

  • @darrenwilcox5043
    @darrenwilcox5043 Жыл бұрын

    The number one strain relief connector with the screws, in my opinion, are not good for tiny house installation, because they can be over tightened and dig in to the insulation, especially on a house on wheels, prone to be moved, (vibration) I would recommend the plastic button type, leave Romex connectors for the stationary houses and don't over tighten. Just my opinion

  • @debbushee6970
    @debbushee69702 жыл бұрын

    i am building tiny home and have been doing electrical , but i have yet to find way to combine 120 v and 12 volt in house , I want to have 12 volt on lighting , 120 on plugs and for thing like hot water , very small dishwasher washer and dryer computer , Also i am going to buy solar system for house a renology system . so will have batteries storing power that will be attached to electrical system sincerely deb bushee

  • @jylfarm1964
    @jylfarm19644 жыл бұрын

    why do you use a SUB-panel instead of a regular entrance panel?

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    4 жыл бұрын

    I haven’t seen a regular service entrance panel that is small enough.

  • @allencolvin656
    @allencolvin6564 жыл бұрын

    Where dod did you find the 50amp inlet box?

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    4 жыл бұрын

    It’s just a standard 50 amp RV inlet. I think you can search surface mount 50 amp RV inlet. Let me know if that doesn’t work for you

  • @conwatcher29

    @conwatcher29

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@actuallytiny2537 I've also been looking for that inlet, can't find it anywhere, thought about the shore power inlets, but they protrude too far into the wall, wouldn't be able to hang drywall over the studs, if you have a link to those inlets I would greatly appreciate it, thanks

  • @michaelberry5492

    @michaelberry5492

    3 жыл бұрын

    Searched every way possible and cannot find. Help!!

  • @pedrogonsalez6466
    @pedrogonsalez6466 Жыл бұрын

    Good

  • @michaelstora70
    @michaelstora702 жыл бұрын

    My understanding is that when you apply the same single phase to both poles of a split phase circut, you get no voltage difference and no load. Running a 120V adapter merely deactivates any of your 240V loads, but doeas not create a hazard.

  • @Chipwhitley274
    @Chipwhitley2743 жыл бұрын

    It's like you go out of your way to avoid demonstrating how to install any of the service... reducing your helpful footprint.

  • @lesterwatson8519
    @lesterwatson85198 ай бұрын

    You may not be a licensed electrician but in my opinion licensed electrician means nothing. I have met a lot of licensed that don't know half of what it appears you know

  • @rembink
    @rembink3 жыл бұрын

    terrible explanation - no idea why there is a black and a red - a critical first step and you just went passed it - why can't anyone ever explain this slower and properly? I have seen so many videos and not even 1 explains it.

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    3 жыл бұрын

    I think the reason that you don’t see it explicitly explained is because it’s such a basic part of electricity that if it’s not immediately clear you shouldn’t touch anything inside of an electrical box. But if you’re just curious you could literally type “what do the red and black wires mean” into Google and it immediately gives you exactly the answer you’re looking for. I could explain it to you in less than one sentence and if you had just asked me a question instead of telling me my explanations were terrible I would’ve happily done that for you, probably the same day you asked!

  • @rembink

    @rembink

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@actuallytiny2537 You are right. I need to calm down. I figured it out. 220. Now you know that viewers pay attention to every detail and it is important to address it. It would have taken you 10 seconds. But I understand overlooking these things when making videos.

  • @actuallytiny2537

    @actuallytiny2537

    3 жыл бұрын

    In this particular application the black and red are actually misleading, because the two hot legs are interchangeable and the utility company feels the same way because both of the lines into your house are black. Wires are used for all sorts of things though so labeling different colors might help people to track polarity in certain applications. Basically the way the 220 works is you’ve got the same voltage on each wire but 180° opposite of each other so when one wire is pushing electrons the other one is pulling electrons and then the whole thing reverses back-and-forth 60 times per second. This is favorable because what it means is that you can actually hook both ends to a 220 V appliance with no neutral and essentially each wire becomes the neutral for the other wire every time the electrons bounce back-and-forth but it’s even better than that because one side is actually pulling while the other side is pushing so you don’t have the dead wire resistance of the neutral which is why 220 V appliances are always slightly more efficient. In the case of RVs though typically you would never have a 220 V load it’s just too hot legs running 120 V appliances and the whole point of it is just to bring more electricity into the trailer. I hope this helps.