Titebond II vs III: I use III simply because it has a longer working time, which is especially important for big glueups. When building skateboards for instance you need to apply a lot of glue, over a large area, before clamping the veneers together. Titebond III affords you not having to rush like a crazy person. Likewise with skateboards, applying glue on both surfaces ensures that you get glue all over the joint, even if you missed a small area on each you're likely to cover it all. I've heard of situations when pressing skateboard decks that pressing too hard can squeeze out too much glue, and leave you with a weaker skateboard deck. Generally, when pressing a deck, you're using more pressure than you could get with most commercially available glue clamps anyhow, as you're putting it into an actual press, or a vacuum bag system. Completely with you on the CA glue, best used temporarily, at least in wood working. Though, one glue which you left out is epoxy glue. It's both gap filling and has adhesive properties which outshine most other glues.

@Ltifone2014

8 жыл бұрын

+Switch & Lever Two things:Firstly, would you mind sharing where it is you get your lamination veneer? I am trying, with no success, to find any good core material. Second: epoxy's greatness is also one of it's weaknesses. It is incredibly strong and is perfect for joining dissimilar materials, but it is brittle. it's hardness make it a poor choice for shock load applications (chairs and the like) as well as applications that would be subject to high amounts of wood movement.

@SwitchAndLever

8 жыл бұрын

+Ltifone2014 I get it from Roarockit Skateboards. In my latest video I use their veneers to build a skateboard. I've fixed chairs with epoxy though, with very loose joints, and haven't had one come apart on me yet. With wood glue, if you don't have a tight joint you're basically out of luck. You can find epoxies which have a little bit of give in them, making joints much less brittle. You can also glue material which aren't entirely clean without much loss of joint strength. That's why it's my go to glue for chair repair, unless it needs to be historically accurate when, then I'd use hide glue...but that's a whole other can of worms.

@Ltifone2014

8 жыл бұрын

i must say i am envious that you have never had an epoxy joint crack. I'm still fairly new to the game, maybe i just haven't figured something out yet. Thanks for the info, I hope have a nice day

@jonathantullock6922

6 жыл бұрын

Switch & Lever jkkk

@zandemen

6 жыл бұрын

I built a kayak with epoxy in the glued joints and it worked great for a few decades, until it was stolen. Very similar to fiberglass resin which I used for many other projects. I think a key is to have reinforcing fibres and keep the resin in thin sheets which are more flexible.

One says "weatherproof", the other says "waterproof"

@timsaurusrex

8 жыл бұрын

DAAAAAMN, Matthias straight got 'heeeeeem lol

@velcroman11

6 жыл бұрын

Matthias Wandel A very important difference. “Waterproof” does not mean it is “weatherproof”

@shmiggz

6 жыл бұрын

Was just going to say that.

@markbaldwin975

6 жыл бұрын

Good catch.

@christiandieterlen8736

6 жыл бұрын

Matthias Wandel a

Tightbond is the original and it is the standard mixture, the big difference between tightbond and tightbond 2 is the waterproof nature. Tightbond 3 is more of a specialty glue. 3 has a longer open time (or time you have to work with it until it cures) and one of the alterations in 3 is that it has either acorn or walnut shells in it (I don't remember which) that gives it a darner color when it dries so it's easier to hid the glue line. I agree with you on not using a wet rag for cleaning, If you have squeeze out then let it dry and remove it with a chisel and some sand paper. Oh, and Tightbond 3 is a pain to wash out of clothes or a work apron. I have found that it won't wash out on it's one and you have to pick it out or just accept that it is there for the long haul. I like glues and my favorite is the Silicon Marine Glue. It had worked miracles for me. But for woodworking I just use tightbond original or elmers wood glue. I don't care about it's life in water or outdoors because I seal everything with poly or lacquer. Oh and CA glue with an accelerator is just ca glue that hardens faster. The accelerator does not really alter the chemical makeup after it's hardened it just makes it harden faster than it would normally Well that is some of the horrible amount of information I know about chemical glues.Your channel has given me a lot of little tips and tricks and I am glad to share some information with you Steve. Have a great week.

@DCsk8rgoelz

8 жыл бұрын

+

@jaandel1

5 жыл бұрын

Great advices

@roberttill3787

5 жыл бұрын

Titebond three does not wash out of your apron as its waterproof. Your attempts to wash it out prove the claim its waterproof!

@roberttill3787

4 жыл бұрын

@rats arsed would it be safe to use on food use items?

@EMWoodworking

4 жыл бұрын

robert till 3 is food safe It’s on the label

Steve, I was glued to this the whole time. Very binding material!

@5309backbeat

7 жыл бұрын

Were you spell bound

@greatscotmagic

5 жыл бұрын

It really held my attention!

@barbkeen1221

5 жыл бұрын

All of y'all- 👍😂😂😂😂😂😂

@IncogNito-vz9tm

4 жыл бұрын

You should stick to your day job :D

SuperGlue is best for gluing your fingers together...I usually don't intend to do this, but it always seems to happen when I use it! By the way - great video!

No-one seems to have mentioned this, but the reason I use TBIII is because it has a longer open time than II, which is a blessing for intricate glue work and complicated clamping (it takes longer to start drying out from its wet state).

I will just add to what others are saying. I find TBII to be essentially waterproof for anything I do. Years ago when TBII was introduced I glued some blocks of different kinds of wood together then sank them in a bucket of water after allowing the glue to cure overnight. After several weeks of being fully submerged the TBII glue line turned almost white, but there was no discernable weakening of the joints. I will still use TBIII if I am building something that I know is going to be directly and frequently exposed to water and sun and I have some TBIII on hand. However, I cannot say that I have ever had a joint failure due to water using TBII. As for super glues, anybody that isn't using them is missing out on a very useful product! The only problem is that the accelerator is sold separately and most often not even stocked at most stores. For most construction related applications you must use the accelerator. Just put the super glue on one surface, spray the mating surface with the accelerator and bring the pieces together. What you get is an instant permanent waterproof connection. You can even spray the accelerator over the surface of the glue joint after you have squeezed them together and as long as it comes into contact with some of the squeeze out it will kick off the bonding reaction. It's not for every application but It can do many things that no other adhesive can and the fact that it happens instantly will save you tremendous amounts of time once you learn how to use it.

I am 72 years old now, and when I was a kid in the 1950's, I would go with my Dad to the Boat yard where they built Sea going wooded boats up to 90 feet in length. They used a brown Powder glue you mixed with water , which was made by Weldwood. It dried like harder that woodpecker lips. In fact, they would glue two pieces of scrap wood together and tie a string to it and throw it in the river, and after weeks, pull it out and try to beat the joint with a hammer, but could not. The wood would splinter but the Glue never gave up I have looked for this glue, But, Unfortunately, it is Not made any more.. It was the best ever. Nothing now compares with it. Have or had you ever heard of this Glue. It came in a Tin, Paint like can that sealed just like a paint can. Yours Truly, Russell

@toonybrain

4 жыл бұрын

“harder than woodpecker lips” LMBO

@alangeorgebarstow

4 жыл бұрын

russell hill: "It dried like harder that woodpecker lips." What language is this in? We must be told since it is unintelligible to those of us who speak Standard English. Also, what the hell does it mean?

@JT_70

4 жыл бұрын

Alan George Barstow City boy

@alangeorgebarstow

4 жыл бұрын

@@JT_70 What? Russell Hill is a city boy; woodpecker lips means city boy; or I am a city boy? If it's the third count you are utterly incorrect: I am a country bumpkin.

@hsbrooks

4 жыл бұрын

russell hill, I remember that glue also. I think epoxy resins replaced it.

I've tried Titebond ll and Titebond lll. I can't give a specific reason, but I prefer the Titebond ll. Just an added side note, I had a small amount of Titebond ll set up in the bottom of one of my glue bottles. I figured I'd just fill the bottle with water and let it set for a few days to soften it up and I could reuse the bottle. Well, it didn't soften up in a few days or weeks or months. That bottle sat for two years with water submerging the glue and it never softened enough to remove. Titebond ll might not be waterPROOF enough for marine use (submersion) but it holds up reasonably well for most outdoor projects.

Hi Steve et al. In addition to different water resistance levels, The biggest difference between TB3 and TB2 for me, and the reason I bought TB3, is that TB3 is food safe. So if you're making cutting boards or bowls, etc, TB3 is the preferred choice.

@bullfrogpondshop3179

2 жыл бұрын

TB2 is food safe also.

@JamesG82

2 жыл бұрын

@@bullfrogpondshop3179 DId that change? I could swear when I started making cutting boards TB2 wasn't FDA approved for indirect food contact, only TB3 was. Although regular wood glue has been used for decades so Im sure it'd be fine nonetheless

@rorschacht8478

2 жыл бұрын

@@JamesG82 All titebonds are FDA approved

This guys provide good and honest advice based on his experienced and real work test ... my respects

Actually, I tested the excessive clamping myth, and in my tests, it did produce a slightly weaker joint. Might not be the same for soft woods though. Seaarch for "can you squeeze all the glue out of a joint"

@leedoughty1607

8 жыл бұрын

i love all of your myth buster style videos (well actually i love all of your videos) and i hope to see more soon hopefully :)

@tleg6969

8 жыл бұрын

I was just going to comment that you did a video proving that "starved" joints are weaker.

@SomethingOutOf1984

8 жыл бұрын

+Matthias Wandel I was Just thinking of that video.

@oliverdelica2289

6 жыл бұрын

Matthias you're the wood scientist

@kmac9897

6 жыл бұрын

Matthias Wandel n

Hi Steve! I have a tip for filling nail holes. I do a lot of picture framing and to match the stain on a frame I use alcohol based markers. First I mix up a small amount of a product called Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty (only mix what you need as one it's dry you can reuse it, I think it might be similar to plaster of paris but it seems more durable, either way you are only filling a nail hole not building a fireplace with it.) and fill the hole. I wipe away the excess with a damp paper towel or baby wipe. Once dry I touch it up with an alcohol based marker like a Sharpie. You can get sets that are all neutral color or purchase a few shades in tans and browns at your local art supply store. Since I already have them for my art I use what I have. All brands work great but the artists brands offer more color selection. You can build up the marker until you get a match. If you are filling a hole in a dark wood such as walnut add some brown acrylic paint to the water you mix with the durhams powder to start off with a darker color putty and adjust with your permanent alcohol based marker. Since the marker is transparent if a bit gets on the wood you can wipe it with your finger and blend it in. Hope it helps! I even saw a set of "furniture markers" at the Dollar Tree and they are fine for this. Have a great week!

@erichaltomwoodworking7363

6 жыл бұрын

This is a great suggestion. Makes sense to go this route. Once the clear is put on, you'll never see it.

@Bob-of-Zoid

2 жыл бұрын

Nails (and staples) suck on nearly every level, and should only be used temporarily on stuff you want to take apart in the near future, and there are much better fasteners, like screws if visibility isn't a problem, and of course glue when it is. Of course when gluing, you need tight fitting joints, or risk loss of strength. Framing shops, well at least those franchises don't use good joints to begin with, nor good fastening methods, almost as if they are making sure you will have to go back for replacement and repair, and there are way better methods than jus 45 deg cuts nailed or stapled together, and why I do it myself.

Super glue is best at holding fingers together.

@will1867

7 жыл бұрын

metamech 😂😂

@HolyCrapAA

7 жыл бұрын

I think epoxy does a better job at that!

@howtomake4281

7 жыл бұрын

Check my videos

@freddyfriesen

6 жыл бұрын

This is true. I also use it on stone chips in the windshield of vehicles to hold off crack spreading and delay the need for a new windshield.

@numismaticokie9243

6 жыл бұрын

paired with electrical tape, they make the best shop expedient bandaid too! haha

These videos have kept me glued to the screen!

III and II actually do have different waterproof certs: Titebond III is ANSI Type I and Titebond II is ANSI Type II. Type II is fine for outdoor use in non-extreme temperatures.

@JayWandersOut

8 жыл бұрын

+TheRacerRich I guess that makes sense considering where he lives. Thanks for the info.

@makincash3337

2 жыл бұрын

Which is better for humidity?

In my experience I use Titebond III almost exclusively, because of the extended open time over TB II (20 min vs 10 min). I've never had the problem you mentioned of darkening. My guess, and it is Only as guess, is that you had a chemical reaction with what ever wood you were using on that table project. Good video.

@danstheman33

Жыл бұрын

Titebond III has an open working time of 8-10 minutes, according to the manufacturer. I don't know where you're getting 20 minutes from.

@mpferretti

Жыл бұрын

​@@danstheman33 Tks Man.. you're right.. that's why I always say don't trust in every comment you see..

Those labels were not the same. Titebond 2 is weatherproof and Titebond 3 is waterproof. I do avoid using Titebond 3 on only light woods as the glue is darker and shows more no matter what. I have had Titebond 2 start to fail in some cutting boards that we're getting too wet when being washed.

@fredcdobbs823

7 жыл бұрын

I believe Titebond 3 has walnut shells ground in to give a wooden tone and texture

@soldozer

5 жыл бұрын

1) Should not be using II on cutting boards, it's not even water proof.

@roberttill3787

5 жыл бұрын

@Tekagi Titebond 2 is not rated as food safe where titebond three is.

@roberttill3787

5 жыл бұрын

@@soldozer Titebond two is not rated foodsafe either.

II grabs earlier, dries semi-flexible and is weatherproof. III grabs later allowing more open time which is important when say veneering in a very hot workshop. It dries harder, is waterproof and foodsafe certified. For loudspeaker makers like myself, tightbond II is the go-to glue along with Elmers. Cabinet panel resonance can be partly damped at the joints which is ideal. It results in very strong joints but they must be close tolerance. For sloppier joint repairs I use Gorrilla glue. Its never let me down. For close joints the bond is still stronger than the wood if clamped well and surfaces to be bonded are first damped with a little water as it reacts chemically and the water is a catylist and results in stronger bonds. When dry any overspill is easily worked by chisel or sandpaper.

Steve, to color match I use sanding dust mixed with the stain or dye. I then allow that to dry and walla color matched filler. Mix that with whatever clear drying glue you choose and you have a perfect match.

@mykhelderian

5 жыл бұрын

Sounds like a great tip! Thanks.

TB3 has a much longer open time, that's the main benefit I've found.

@BenNawrath

8 жыл бұрын

Beat me to it, Ben :)

@sronnie

6 жыл бұрын

That's the reason I use it 99% of the time.

@k.b.woodworker3250

6 жыл бұрын

Me too!

@li-arajackson5669

6 жыл бұрын

is open time like dry time?

@k.b.woodworker3250

6 жыл бұрын

Open time is the amount of time you have to clamp up the parts, before the bond starts to form. Glue actually doesn't "dry," it "sets" or "cures." We normally say dry but it doesn't dry out, it more forms a chemical bond. The set (dry) time is about 24 hours for titebond. This means if you stress the joint before it sets completely it will be weaker or may fail right away. You can usually remove the clamps after about 1/2 to 1 hour, and it will feel set, but the bond hasn't fully formed.

We do wood shop in school, you know your videos are so useful.

Tightbond III is urethane based. Tightbond II is waterbased (PVA) with polymers added for water resistance. It forms a lattice of polynomials which is more tight knit than regular PVA. A urethane based glue will not breakdown with moisture, but can loose adhesion if in extreme cold, or heat, but that is not likely to ever effect anyone unless you are in Canada or Alaska or somewhere extreme. When using Adhesives, it is important to use a something that allows for dispersion across the surfaces.

@RandomNumber141

2 жыл бұрын

lattice of polynomials?

At carpenter school we learn that normal wood glue binds way better when the pressure is high and the gap between the pieces should be as small and smooth as possible. We even tested a few differently set up glue joints proving exactly the mentioned above.

My experiences have been similar to yours when using the glue/sawdust mix. It's tough to get a good match.

TB3-- food safe. Cutting board assembly. I use it only in my cutting boards. TBII-- all other projects

After many years of "titebond" use I decided to try plain ole elmers glue....the glue I recommend is the Elmers wood glue MAX. it is as strong or stronger as the "III", has ample open time and cleans up easily PLUS it is a lot less expensive. I buy the largest containers and use the smallest so it is easiest to manage in old hands. I also use a smaller nozzle from other containers because there is less waste and cleanup involved. I guess I have used Elmers five years and never had any problems with it's quality, I cannot say that about titebond. In the winter I heat the glue in hot water from my shop mircowave...titebond did not work well at that point, Elmers does. I sell hundreds of items online and as yet never had any complaints.

Epoxies definitely are part of my tool kit and deserve a mention, of course not for everything. As a part-time boat builder I have gotten used to working with epoxy and especially thickened epoxy for joint repair. recently I repaired a 100 year-old falling apart table that I use outdoors and needed to replace a lot of rotted out wood, which epoxy thickened with wood flour was just perfect for. It does take about 24 hours to cure. But yes I generally use Titebond 2 or 3 for most other woodwork I do.

Titebond III doubles the working time, can be used in colder environments and is slightly stronger (not really worth the extra strength) So depending on the project if you need extra working time, it might be worth it. Cheers !

@ValleyLofts

8 жыл бұрын

+Canadian Sasquatch I was pretty sure titebond 2 had the longer open time, not 3

@joshw6212

8 жыл бұрын

+M. Heedes No, canadian sasquatch is correct. TBIII has the longer working time between II and III.

@Canadiansasquatchbrewery

8 жыл бұрын

+M. Heedes As Josh mentions, it is 3 that has longer working time (10 minutes vs 5 minutes according to their website) Cheers!

I find that Elmer's glue sticks work the best for my woodworking projects. Much better than the old rendered horse hoof glue I used to use and tastes so much better. Haven't tried any of the Titebond glues. How do they taste? FYI: Don't even try superglue , can't get that nasty taste out for 2 weeks unless you mix it with a little horseradish sauce then it's quite tangy and good for holding those highly stacked sandwiches together that want to fall over.

Titebond II = ANSI Type II water-resistance Titebond III = ANSI/HPVA Type 1 water-resistance specification and offers superior bond strength, longer open assembly time and lower application temperature. Sounds like both products would work outside but joints bonded with type II would fail sooner. Hope this helps.

Just did an experiment with CA glue (2-P10 brand) on prefinished plywood. This is type of cabinet plywood that has a glossy finish already applied at the factory, and is impossible to glue with wood glue unless you strip the finish off first. Anyway, the 2-P10 plus activator spray made a bond similar to the one you demonstrated in you main glue video - the wood broke, but the glue bond didn't. I didn't expect that it would work, but it did, and is very strong. There are several different viscosities of 2-P10. I used the "medium" version. I'm not sure the viscosity matters in this application, because I think the factory finish prevents it from soaking in. On the other hand, I wouldn't use this glue for ordinary glue ups because it is too expensive and almost unforgiving with regard to positioning. Thanks for the great videos!

Titebond III is the only one approved by the FDA for use on food service applications.

@l3ender15

8 жыл бұрын

Not true--both II and III are FDA approved for indirect food contact. See the other comment with a link to a Titebond video

@gojessego

8 жыл бұрын

Fda approval just means that they paid for the testing, it does not mean that any of the other types of glue formulations are not "safe for food contact". it just means they wanted a leg up in marketing. Not a single person has been recorded as becoming sick from a modern wood glue or finish once lead was removed from pigments and driers. I am not stating that all types of glue or finishes should be used in any application, but that "food safety" is just a marketing myth.

@DKWalser

8 жыл бұрын

+Jesse G While what you say is typically correct, that's NOT the case here. The reason type III is approved for food use is because it allows the items made with it to be washed. A cutting board made with type I will come apart with repeated washings. Before it comes apart, cracks will form allowing bacteria to grow. This is not a problem with type III.

@jimhande9706

7 жыл бұрын

Never had a problem using Titebond II for cutting boards.

@jayostler8273

6 жыл бұрын

BOTH tb2 and tb3 are fda approved for indirect food contact, also another note, i do a lot of woodworking in an unheated garage in the winter time, and, in my sxperience, tb3 will not lose its viscosity as much as tb2 due to colder temperatures. Its not a huge difference, but it IS noticeable, at least to me anyway. In viewing one of the videos linked in the comments, a TB rep actually refers to this.

I would love to see a scientific experiment for using wood glue with one joint clamped lightly (to not squeeze out all the glue) and another clamped as tight as possible and test for strength. I also am in the camp that believes you should clamp as tight as possible without causing wood damage. A spare block of wood works good for absorbing clamping damage.

I have experienced alot of the same results as you mentioned in your video. I recently switched back to Titebond II from Titebond III due to the results of a project. I received the same results with the joints looking terrible by my standards. The joints obsorbed more stain then the wood grain giving a prominent looking joint, terrible. Great video, you should do a free give away of a t-shirt. Thanks again, great video.

GluBot? I bought a large one and a small one after seeing it on your show. Absolutely love them. Just like the mustard bottle, you need to wash out the nozzle before the glue sets. Replacing the factory o-rings is an improvement, and if your man-cave is like mine you will already have an assortment to find a size that fits. Much like a paint can that you don't clean out the rim before putting the lid back on: paint builds up, dries, can doesn't seal, paint dries out. Some of the construction glues will actually allow the joints to pull apart as they dry and warp. Gorilla glue will hold chair pieces when nothing else will. A chair in our dining room set always wanted to pull apart at the head piece. Gorilla glue and a good clamping has lasted years when nothing else even thought of holding. Yeah, had to trim the foamed-out glue, but sure beats unattached pieces of wood.

The main reason why cyanoacrylate feels "weak" is because it has a very low shear strength. Any sort of sideways movement and the bond just won't hold up to the stress. If you tried just pulling them apart, you'd be hard pressed to get it to separate, regardless, I wouldn't ever use it for any joint. I do, however, plan on using it as a finish once I get a lathe and start turning things like pens and bottle stoppers.

@TheLurker

8 жыл бұрын

+SimkinC42 I was coming here to say exactly this!

Superglue is also incredibly effective for holding fingers together.

@MKRM27

8 жыл бұрын

Is it true that's kind of how it was invented? Gluing wounds together in a battlefield?

In an art class, building a block for carving, we just used yellow Titebond, and spread evenly on both sides before clamping TIGHT. The boards were planed prior to gluing, and so made invisible seams which have never failed or cracked after 30 years. I think spreading makes the bond more uniform, gives a brief period to soak in a bit consistently to both sides, after which time clamping may force out some glue, but the wood contact is improved so the thin glue layer can achieve maximum strength, usually greater than the wood alone. As long as the clamp stays until the glue sets, no air gaps or voids should occur, whereas one-sided applications might leave air voids which the glue won't migrate to fill.

with staining sawdust/glue ive managed to get exact matches by mixing the saw dust/glue with stain BEFORE applying to joint/crack. stain will aways match if the sawdust is stained before or at the same time glue is added to the mixture. but staining after the glue is dry will repel the stain. I used this trick to fill in old 2x3 mortis and tendon holes in reclaimed 10x8 barn studs that were worn and over 100+ years old. got perfect color matches.

CA glue has it's uses, mostly sticking your fingers to whatever surface you're trying to work with

Anytime I use super glue it's it a situation where there is no stress on that joint or to use it as a clamp. Put a little bit on what you are gluing as well as your wood glue and it holds it long enough for the wood glue to set up

@mrbakerjjim

8 жыл бұрын

+Scott Reid i do the same thing. mostly in places where i can't fit a clamp

We wood turners use super glue as a glossy finish on small items like finials, also it's good for filling small voids and can be mixed with sawdust, coffee grounds etc... to patch larger gaps.

I'm completely with you on Not using a damp anything to clean up wet glue. I keep a 3/8" chisel and a card scrapper sharp enough for that task.

I remember asking this same question when I built my dining table. I seem to remember that titebond III was food grade where titebond II was not.

@danwilcox7650

4 жыл бұрын

This was the major difference I knew of, the longer working time may be true. I use III for cutting boards and items that will comme in contact with food. Everything else I use II.

@xavier1964

4 жыл бұрын

titebond 2 IS food safe though

I don't usually comment on background music.The music was subtle enough that I caught myself looking out the window for the ice cream truck. Good video.

I was told by my grandfather who was a woodworker, that by applying glue to both pieces of wood, the glue will set into the wood fibers on both pieces and you won't get the sliding around you spoke about. You also get less squeeze out and a tighter bond.

Last time I bought some wood glue I remembered seeing that you liked 2 and not 3. I hadn't watched the video yet, just saw the title, but that was enough for me to buy tight bond 2! It works great! Now I'm watching to find out why I bought it.

I've never found a reason to buy a bottle of Titebond III, so I have no personal experience with it. Titebond II has never failed me, so I use it for everything. CA glue has very few uses for me. It cures too fast to really penetrate and make a strong bond. If I need a quick-set for something, I reach for the hot glue gun instead.

@sidgar1

8 жыл бұрын

+Chevee Dodd Hot glue is extremely underrated. I use it a ton for making on-the-fly jigs and anything I need to bond together fast. It's also surprisingly strong...a lot stronger than people give it credit for. Plus it bonds to a lot of different materials. As long as you use the hotter melt type glue, it is an amazing adhesive for a wide variety of projects.

@CheveeDodd

8 жыл бұрын

+sidgar1 completely agree. It's amazingly versatile.

I have heard TB3 is food grade safe and can be used for cutting boards.

Titebond III is actually recommend in bow making. I used it to repair a longbow I made and it has held for over 5 years so far. Still haven't done a full build with it but I will one day.

Fantastic video! I'll only add that I personally have great success using Hot Stuff's Zap-a-Gap CA glue, and Fast Cap's 2P-10 CA glue (same company behind GlueBot). They come in varied thicknesses for different applications, which sometimes makes it the only option for a job. Cyanoacrylate is harsh stuff to handle, not nearly as friendly as good ol' waterbased glues, but even on wood it's incredibly strong when not accelerated. I use it frequently in my profession as a furniture restorer, and when used correctly I trust it as much as I do Titebond.

If I recall correctly, 3 is foodsave, so for use in cuttingboards etc...

@ibdubluofficial9945

8 жыл бұрын

+RoboCNC Frees- & Graveerwerk i think your right!

@marquisbois990

8 жыл бұрын

+RoboCNC Frees- & Graveerwerk I think thats the selling point, but it would be hard to find any retail glue that is NOT food safe once cured. Plenty of boards out there made with II...

@ValUlicki

8 жыл бұрын

+RoboCNC Frees- & Graveerwerk Titebond III is actually CERTIFIED food safe. As far as the cutting boards I make, being able to say that is more than worth the extra cost of III.

@KenBoldt

8 жыл бұрын

+RoboCNC Frees- & Graveerwerk The Titebond website says the same thing for both TBII and TBIII: "FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards)"

Hey Steve, I know this is an older video, but the best glue bottle I've found came out of a hair dye kit that my wife had. Its flexible plastic with a nozzle and a lid. You can buy a pack of 3 for $1 at the Dollar Tree

Good information Thanks I use super glue mostly for a hard high gloss finish on small turnings. I do agree with all of you comments so thanks again. Tim

Love the channel first off. As a relatively new woodworker I’ve been using 3 exclusively so far because of the longer open time. Personally, I’ve run into ZERO issues cleaning up my excess glue with a slightly damp shop rag (t-shirts), but I do clean up my joints immediately after clamping and I’m also quite conscious of using just enough glue to coat well but not so much to squeeze out massive drippings worth of glue.

If you want to attach a construction worker to a steel beam suspended in mid-air, super glue is your go-to choice!

@condor5635

4 жыл бұрын

trublgrl - I remember that commercial!

@GiltyRocker

4 жыл бұрын

Actually I think that was Crazy Glue :)

@trublgrl

4 жыл бұрын

@@GiltyRocker Don't be Crazy.

Titebond ||| is foodsafe and is mostly used in cuttingbords. love the chanal

@davidbarnhart5101

7 жыл бұрын

Markus Skov A

@xavier1964

4 жыл бұрын

Titebond 2 is also food safe

I used titebond III on a cedar planter and didn't have any issues with it staining the finish. I used a rattle can of minwax spar urethane. Favorite glue is the marine epoxy that I am using to build my boat. It is in fact waterproof, probably the strongest option out there, and can fill gaps when used with the right fillers; but expensive, messy and you have to wear gloves.

Titebond II is weatherproof and Titebond III is waterproof. The wording is different but I don't know how much different the glues would be. I dont like mixing sawdust and glue if staining can't get it to match. My favorite wood filler is Timber Mate. It comes in different colors, is water based and nontoxic. It has a mildewcide that smells strong which is the only downside. Thanks for the good content.

Super glue is great at what it was designed to do. Gluing skin to toilet seats.

@ClydeWWalts

8 жыл бұрын

That was a truly beautiful visual.

@paulohenriqueosorioflores6712

5 жыл бұрын

Man, How hard I laughed for that!

@NOTNOTJON

5 жыл бұрын

comment of the week right here ladies and gentlemen.

@poormansmtb5204

5 жыл бұрын

That was funny

@boydmerriman

4 жыл бұрын

As long as it was only the fingers! Not sure what skin you are talking about here or what you are doing with Super Glue while on the toilet, but hey, each his or her own! ;-)

Titebond 2 said weatherproof and titebond 3 said waterproof

Type 2 glue softens when wet and looses its maximum holding strength while type 3 stays hard even when wet and use aniline dyes if wood glue tends to show up after staining.

Titebond II is Type II water-resistant and Titebond III is Type I. Titebond II is fine for most uses and the extra $10/gallon for the III is going to make no difference. Here is the water-resistance test info from the FAQ: What is the difference between the ANSI/HPVA Type I and Type II water-resistance specification? Both of these tests are conducted using 6” by 6” birch laminates glued together to make three-ply plywood. The test for Type I is clearly more stringent than Type II, and involves boiling the glue bonds and testing the specimens while they are wet. Type I testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 1" by 3" specimens, boiling them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 145°F oven for 20 hours. They are boiled for an additional 4 hours, then immediately cooled using running water. The specimens are sheared while wet, and the bonds must pass certain strength and wood failure requirements to pass the Type I specification. Type II testing involves cutting the 6" by 6" assemblies into 2" by 5" specimens, soaking them for 4 hours, then baking the specimens in a 120°F oven for 19 hours. This is repeated for a total of three cycles, and the bonds must not delaminate to pass the Type II specification.

Titebond III is FDA approved II is not. Also I like to use a rubber ink roller to apply glue it works great gives me an even coat reduces excess and is easy to clean. Got it at Hobby Lobby.

I've been using both Tightbond II & III for a long time, I usually use the III on outdoor projects like your table. I've never seen that staining before, but I will watch for it from now on. But to be honest, I've had projects where I used regular Tightbond that have been outside for years, and they're fine.

Wood is essentially a dry sponge, in which case, a slightly damp sponge will absorb more water (glue) quicker. I use to glue one side of a joint liberally before clamping or assembly but found a thin coat to both sides will yield a much stronger seam with a quicker tack time in most all applications. The glue line will almost act like contact cement if you get even coverage and the right quantity of glue. More time gluing, much less time in the clamp. Thanks for the vid!

I never wipe away squeeze out for the very reason you said: it repels stain leaving a blotchy finish. Instead, it's better to let it dry and pare it off with a chisel or be diligent and avoid squeeze out altogether. Cyanoacrilate glue is brittle like you said but it has its place. Works really well to hold mitered mouldings that are attached by other means and are not structural. What I mean by that is for example a decorative moulding pinned to a case, CA glue works well to hold the miter closed because you can spritz it with the activator and it's dry in seconds.

Not to be a negative Nancy, but one says waterproof and one says weatherproof.

@ladygardener100

7 жыл бұрын

I noticed that too

@kevinraj4470

7 жыл бұрын

Jo Allan Same

@howtomake4281

7 жыл бұрын

check my channel

I used to glue quarters to the concrete shop floor with gorilla glue. It drove the company miser crazy.

I have just bought a glue called Weldbond and I have tried it by applying two endpices of wood together. It works very well and also it is non toxid. It becomes transperant when drying.

Indoors I'm old-school Elmer's guy. I have 30 year old cabinets that were made with it and they are perfect. In high school our shop teacher used Elmer's wood glue and put it in a press. The bond was stronger than the wood itself.

Titebond 3 is food safe, a lot of people us it for cutting boards.

@xavier1964

4 жыл бұрын

Titebond 2 is also food safe

@codyalvarez1670

4 жыл бұрын

@@xavier1964 not entirely. Both are FDA approved for indirect food contact but, titebond 3 is the only one truly certified as "Food Safe"

I've found that Elmer's wood glue works WAY better at blending colors with sawdust than Titebond II

@davidmarzolino7159

7 жыл бұрын

aroth Do you mean Elmers white glue, or Elmers yellow carpenter's glue?

I am trying titebond 2 for the first time, Was using 3 but ran out so I am trying 2 so far 2 is easier to work with is not running like 3, so I have switched to 2 thank you Steve also less expensive

Modern glues are Amazing! I use Titebond II every day to make 2" thick tables of pine, maple and oak. I never coat both surfaces. I think that the old white glues did not bond the grain as readily as the new glues and you could over tighten the joint. T II quickly begins to soak into the grain and makes an almost molecular bond. Clamp 2 pieces together for about 30 sec. and try to break them apart. Keep on Makin'

@moosed

5 жыл бұрын

Seconds? or minutes?

@craigmckinney2219

5 жыл бұрын

@@moosed try clamping for 30 seconds to 1 minute and you will be amazed at how hard it is to break it apart.

0:45 ...Look again, one says Waterproof, one says Weatherproof

@rakmaarcg1553

8 жыл бұрын

you got a point here ! nicely spotted ! :)

@blaineallenbrown

8 жыл бұрын

+Bob Daniel I noticed that too, but that's really Titebond's fault for making them look so similar.

@SteveFrenchWoodNStuff

8 жыл бұрын

+Bob Daniel - Ahhhh, good eye. I looked right at it and didn't notice that. But now that you point it out I think I may have noticed that in the past.

@soldozer

5 жыл бұрын

@@blaineallenbrown It's Tightbonds fault you cant read and are fooled as easy as a Democrat?

@kyzor-sosay6087

4 жыл бұрын

Which one is best for cutting boards titebond 2 or 3?

2:46 _"... clamp too tightly..."_ Matthias Wandel did a test of that, and iirc, found a small difference, but he had to clamp it like crazy with a bunch of C-clamps. of course, I don't know how many times he tested it, so more data may be required. it may also have depended on which kind of glue he used, which I also don't remember. dents really are probably a bigger concern-if you clamp it enough to bring the surfaces together, the glue will do its work.

I use CA glue on a daily basis. I am a professional trim carpenter. When I'm doing joining crown moulding or baseboards I cut my scarf joints at 22.5° and glue the mounting ends together with CA glue. seriously the joint is so strong I can joint two 16' sections together and it be carried out by two people with no worry of the joint breaking

My uncle is a boat builder and he only use Titebond III. He says it gives him a longer working time and does better handling the water. I personally like to use Titebond II for my dry land projects.

The perfect wood fill use the saw dust AND THE FINISHING PRODUCT YOU ARE USING not glue simple as

We ended up buying the gallon bottle of Titebond II last time we were buying glue. I looked at my husband and said, "we're those people, aren't we?"

@suburbanhobbyist2752

7 жыл бұрын

I got a kick out of this comment, thanks!

@brokenwave6125

6 жыл бұрын

What people? One of the millions of people who use wood glue?

Super Glue is great for 2 uses. 1) i use it on the lathe for turning , you use it on a waste block. 2) it is great for trim work crown molding corners are so hard to keep perfect and nails split the wood, I use it on all corners prior to nailing. The accelerated takes the drying time from 1 minute to 5 seconds it is Beautiful for that

The salt trick works great and can be a game saver if you are using stock that is already almost at the finished size of your project. And it is true that you can squeeze out too much glue by over-tightening a clamp. The pieces will still hold but the joint will be weaker.

I think polyurethane glue joints are weakened when the glue expands to fill a large gap.

III is also food grade. II is not. Edit: III and II are supposedly food grade and I is not.

@bsnoonan

5 жыл бұрын

@Tekagi I stand mostly corrected. I found this on their website: "All of our Titebond wood glues are safe to use and produce no harmful fumes. They meet the requirements of ASTM D4236 for safe use with arts and crafts. Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards. We do recommend wearing gloves when working with the Titebond Polyurethane Glue because repeated use of the product with bare hands could lead to a sensitivity to those types of products."

@bsnoonan

5 жыл бұрын

@Tekagi well yea the more I read they all seem to do the same thing .. however the glue is totally different once you get it out of the bottle..

@johnarnold6623

5 жыл бұрын

Either way, dont eat it.

Excellent! In the very first 30 seconds of the video you already told everything I needed to know to NOT buy TB3. I wish all videos in YT would that direct to the point. Thanks Steve!

The main reason I use Titebond III is because it works at a lower temperature than Titlebond I or II. The Titlebond website says its working temperature is about 5 to 10 degrees below Titebond I or II. That is important to me when working in my unheated garage in the winter. I love Titlebond III for this reason and it also is suppose to work better with oily exotic woods. I only use Titebond III

7 drops of Superglue can lift a car - Mythbusters Gorilla glue is terrible at filling joints - +Matthiaswandel Matthias also tested if you can squeeze all the glue out of a joint, making it weaker. Sorta.

@GeneralSeptem

8 жыл бұрын

+Luke Den Hartog Superglue has a great tensile strength, but its shear strength is fairly poor. The car test was entirely tensile; the two plates were not sliding against each other.

@samdouglas32

8 жыл бұрын

+Johnny Steen Superglue's shear strength is okay, but it's very weak against peeling, which concentrate stresses along a small portion of the joint, which fails and the process repeats until the entire joint fails. Steve's demonstration of breaking the superglued lap joint apart shows the glue failing in this manner. As he levered the wood apart it would be stressing one edge of the joint, rather than applying the load evenly as it would in pure shear or tensile.

titebond 3 fda approved for indirect food contact i.e. great for cutting boards

@marceloandrade225

4 жыл бұрын

titebond 2 is fda approved for indirect food contact

Try baking soda as a CA glue kicker- no stink, no mess. I'd do a light dusting on one board, glue on the other.

I TB III for building cigar humidors when gluing up my spanish cedar. Its been sitting for about 5 years at 70% relative humidity with no issue.

Tite bond III has a longer open time. more time for assembly without having to hurry b4 glue dries.

I don't like expanding gorilla glue. Because it expands, it makes it weaker. Foam isn't really that strong....Watch Matthias Wandel's test videos on it.

@budgenatorP

6 жыл бұрын

gorilla glue is best for gluing end grain to end grain, where best means it suck a little less than any alternatives.

@urbanweekendwarrior7238

6 жыл бұрын

If you're gluing end grain to end grain you're doing it wrong. No way is that going to last more than 1 season if your climate is anything less than hermetically sealed

you can technically over-clamp a glued wood joint, making it weak, but you would likely need something such as a hydraulic press. As you said, a standard clamp will dent the wood long before it would put out enough pressure. another commenter mentioned that this can happen when making skateboards, which makes sense since those are pressed under high pressure.

Seeing this title scared me for a second since I just picked up a gallon of titebond III last night from the hardware store. I typically use titebond II and III. They are both strong but III has better water resistance and more open time when working with it. When I do a lamination the extra open time is nice to have. Also if it is a hot day out glue tends to setup quicker so I go for the III for more time. I buy both the II and III in gallon size containers, cause why not. Thank you for the video it sparked questions and through the comments I learned that titebond III is foodsafe which I did not know.

I thought Titebond III is supposed to be Food Safe. I could be wrong...

@thoperSought

8 жыл бұрын

Primal Edge I should probably go and look that up, but I believe you're correct. iirc, Mr. WoodWhisperer used it on end grain cutting boards millennia ago. not literal millennia, obviously and for some damn reason, I can't remember his name at the moment

@hardnox6655

8 жыл бұрын

+Primal Edge Titebond III is foodsafe.

@KenBoldt

8 жыл бұрын

+Primal Edge The Titebond website says the same thing for both TBII and TBIII: "FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards)"

@thefrugalcrafter

8 жыл бұрын

+Hardnox good to know:)

@williambranham6249

8 жыл бұрын

+Primal Edge I like Ranch and Italian dressing. Perhaps I could glue those two dressings together and enjoy both at the same time.

The only best glue you'll ever use in your life is duct tape

@howtomake4281

7 жыл бұрын

check my channel

Titebond III has a significantly lower chalk temperature than II (45F vs 55F). This makes a difference here in New England where I typically heat my shop to about 50F in the winter. Not warm enough for II, but enough for III.

I think the heart of the subject is to be the best Smith you can be. Which means you have an arsenal of solutions to fit the scenario. A cure all does not exist, but what does is your ability to solve.