Why Gendered Buttons? Making a Waistcoat for a Historical Gonzo Muppets Christmas Carol Cosplay

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Part 2 of "oh no, what have I done?". It's time for the waistcoat! Probably the most obvious piece in the entire ensemble, waistcoats in the 1840s were very popularly made from vivid colors and graphic designs. The Victorians definitely were NOT boring. So it's not surprising that Gonzo went with a BRIGHT red and orange plaid. I was fortunate enough to find a silk taffeta in just the right design from Prism Silks prismsilks.com/products/red-o...
For the design, not much had to be adjusted from the movie costume. Shawl collar and double breasted was very common at the time of Dickens, I just had to add details like welted pockets and one more row of buttons (I'm not muppet sized). Most of the adventure with this piece came down to construction and research! Waistcoats aren't a particularly complex tailored garment in comparison to coats and trousers, but there are always choices to be made in how they go together. And the 1840s was no different- there were plenty of techniques and details that aren't common outside of that era, so checking on each choice I was making was essential.
Inevitably I ended up with a research path that took me a bit off course and into the weeds of The Victorian Myth. The idea that left over right fasteners are for men and right over left is for women has clearly been around long enough that we as a society have forgotten why it ever started! Which, usually points to a very mundane origin to be honest. If someone decides a new standard and rule for ReAsOns, they nearly always announce it loudly. But the direction of the button fastenings had no such announcement. Just guesses and theories as to their mysterious origins going all the way back to the 1880s. But the likely culprit is easy to find if we just take a look at original garments and the progress of fasteners throughout the centuries.
Most of the theories come down to "men are strong and need to fight" and "women are weak and motherly". Which isn't surprising considering they were developed in the 1880s-1920s range (and nearly all the articles I found on this were written by men- about how women function...). The simple answer? Most of Europe tends to be right handed. It doesn't have to involve swords or babies, just whatever way is easier to do buttons (or hooks). It's such a boring answer that it actually answers the second part of the problem- how didn't we remember why?
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🎶Music via Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsound.com)
00:00 Introduction
03:31 Left over Right
09:35 Right over Left
17:35 Design & Research
20:22 Stitching

Пікірлер: 453

  • @yezzyjames
    @yezzyjames2 жыл бұрын

    Waistcoats should never have gone out of fashion as they are - clearly shown by this wonderful example - always in style. :}

  • @somethingclever8916

    @somethingclever8916

    2 жыл бұрын

    Vests. But yes they are a rarity

  • @ragnkja

    @ragnkja

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@somethingclever8916 In British English, the word “vest” refers to a garment that is regularly worn and _not_ particularly stylish.

  • @QteaTheSwag

    @QteaTheSwag

    2 жыл бұрын

    They're actually coming back but being worn as either a layer on top of a shirt or just as a shirt in its own right in women's fashion

  • @stevezytveld6585

    @stevezytveld6585

    2 жыл бұрын

    The Keystone vest that Ms. Banner made is what got me into sewing. I'm busty and curvy and have a sway back, so it's not like I'm going to find something in the shops. I have wanted one since the 90's. I'm So thankful for this video. Because I found this lovely plaid wool suiting at the charity store and I want to try out every technique I can when I make it. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

  • @colinp2238

    @colinp2238

    2 жыл бұрын

    I wear them often and have some that represent different organisations to which I belong.

  • @ardenboshier7431
    @ardenboshier74312 жыл бұрын

    I always heard the "men dressed themselves, women were dressed by others" explanation, which always seemed off base. The vast majority of women wouldn't have some kind of ladies' maid to dress them, and helping people dress within the family is surely just as common towards men as women

  • @unameliesa714

    @unameliesa714

    2 жыл бұрын

    That's so interesting, the version I heard growing up was the exact opposite! Supposedly in the early/mid 20th century, wives were expected to button their husbands' (and children's) shirts, so women's buttons were moved to the other side to facilitate using the same buttoning motion whether closing their own or their families' clothes.

  • @IceNixie0102

    @IceNixie0102

    2 жыл бұрын

    My current theory is "men dressed/undressed themselves, so women's buttons were flipped so a man could strip them more easily"

  • @jenndixon1002

    @jenndixon1002

    2 жыл бұрын

    I always heard that too, but also with the explanation that even poorer women were expected to live with others and never alone, so someone would be expected to help her button.

  • @piccalillipit9211

    @piccalillipit9211

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yeah - that's total rubbish - as you suspect. It was brought in with the mass manufacture of garments and department stores to enable the staff to identify men's from womens quickly. Before that, there was no gender difference and my tailoring books from c1900 indicate you should make the closing based on the left V right-handedness of the wearer.

  • @Dragon-Slay3r

    @Dragon-Slay3r

    5 ай бұрын

    We can't complicate the mental health team with a nazi variations to cover the previous cover what do you think? Let me know

  • @ds549
    @ds5492 жыл бұрын

    As a guy who is interested in fashion history, I thank you so so so much for this video, as I personally couldn't really find any instructional videos on how to make historical men's wear. Your videos inspire me a lot (especially this one), and I'm now thinking of making historical menswear from the 1830s-40s, even though I am most likely going to get discouraged and ridiculed for that lol

  • @ragnkja

    @ragnkja

    2 жыл бұрын

    If you alter your style slowly enough, people will just get used to it. Maybe swap out the modern T-shirt for a historical shirt occasionally, then all the time, then occasionally add a waistcoat? Or if you’re in the northern hemisphere you may want to introduce the waistcoat first, simply because it’s useful for staying warm.

  • @somethingclever8916

    @somethingclever8916

    2 жыл бұрын

    We worry too much over what strangers will think Life is short. People really aren't thinking that much of others

  • @roxiepoe9586

    @roxiepoe9586

    2 жыл бұрын

    It is helpful in dealing with those who mind business that is not their own to appreciate that they are actually self-identifying as a****les. This will save you a great deal of time in wondering and identifying. It would be nice if everyone was nice, but, it isn't going to happen.

  • @meeseification

    @meeseification

    2 жыл бұрын

    Never mind what others think--like the others said, start introducing pieces and you will be all set. Remember what ZZ Top once said, "The girls go crazy for a sharp dressed man."

  • @zeideerskine3462

    @zeideerskine3462

    2 жыл бұрын

    You get a big encouragement from me. The world will be so much more colorful and dapper with a few neo dandies around.

  • @Chibihugs
    @Chibihugs2 жыл бұрын

    Waistcoats are fantastic and I adore yours. It is so weird to consider how something as mundane as a button could have gendering.

  • @ragnkja

    @ragnkja

    2 жыл бұрын

    A few centuries earlier, buttons were a mostly male fastener, while women’s garments were laced closed.

  • @stevezytveld6585

    @stevezytveld6585

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ragnkja One slow step to equality at a time. We need to get our pockets back into the mainstream. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

  • @gothicgwen9066

    @gothicgwen9066

    2 жыл бұрын

    I just remember learning gendered buttoning while studying... we were never told why, I never thought to ask!

  • @NWolfsson

    @NWolfsson

    2 жыл бұрын

    And even nowadays, male clothing is fastened left over right, and women's clothing right over left. Which I'm persuaded is just a ploy to sass people making their own clothes and didn't realize such a detail. When my sewing teacher taught me that I genuinely went "Really? Buttons? This is a god damned blouse, let it speak for itself at this point!"

  • @nekkidnora
    @nekkidnora2 жыл бұрын

    You know, I often hear how the women's fshionable shape in history was achieved through clever padding and clothing shape rather than actually changing one's body to match fashions via surgery and dieting. I don't often hear the same said about men's clothing, but I gotta say, the cut of the shirt, the shape of the waiscoat, it goes such a long way to giving you a masculine shape. It's really astounding.

  • @anna_in_aotearoa3166

    @anna_in_aotearoa3166

    2 жыл бұрын

    Nice point! 👌 Especially as in SO many eras, men's fashionable shapes were equally unusual & just as constructed by their clothing as women's! Think for example of the Regency era gentleman in tight pantaloons & cutaway jacket, or a Tudor guy in peascod-belly doublet and hose.... Lots of emphasis on having very specific proportions that usually require stiff tailoring and plenty of padding (on shoulders, or stomach, or even the calves!) And then there's men's corsetry, a rabbithole I wish some costuber would one day jump down, as nobody ever seems to discuss it...?

  • @stevieP994
    @stevieP9942 жыл бұрын

    I love that she structures her videos like a masterclass. Sometimes I feel like I’m in a lecture hall listening to a professor on fashion history.

  • @Dragon-Slay3r

    @Dragon-Slay3r

    5 ай бұрын

    The balls for fire was to cover the balloon which the jin drew, these people are so superstitious 😭 and they don't want to medicate my daughter for this reason. This is why the deployed her medication and this is why they not giving her medication 😭 and that's why they wanted to hospitalise her so I couldn't check what they're doing

  • @Dragon-Slay3r

    @Dragon-Slay3r

    5 ай бұрын

    This is the criss cross so 10 gets away because of hand wash and covid Boris freedom day wow this country is truly run by criminals what shall I do now? Call 999? 😭😂

  • @flaviadias2542
    @flaviadias25422 жыл бұрын

    Amazing video. Can't wait for the episode where you make a historically accurate chicken to play Camilla in the final photoshoot.

  • @Melavara

    @Melavara

    2 жыл бұрын

    😂😂😂

  • @christineherrmann205

    @christineherrmann205

    2 жыл бұрын

    🤣

  • @melissahughes4205
    @melissahughes42052 жыл бұрын

    Fun trivia related to left-over-right for kimonos; when a body is prepared for funeral rites it is dressed in a kimono with the closure reversed, that is right-over left. This is why some manga writers object to their works being "flipped" when translated.

  • @levanataylor790

    @levanataylor790

    2 жыл бұрын

    Wow, interesting point! Although observers would be more likely to first notice flipped illustrations by the fact that the human race would seem to be more than 90% left-handed. Given that the vast majority of manga don't depict people in kimono, the handedness issue is what will have convinced translation companies to employ redrawers rather than a few isolated instances of someone objecting to creepy-looking reversed kimonos.

  • @kirstenpaff8946
    @kirstenpaff89462 жыл бұрын

    That removable button hack is brilliant. I have been wanting to make a hobbit style waistcoat for ages, but none of the buttons I like are machine washable. Now I can have my waistcoat and easy laundering.

  • @insanecat6
    @insanecat62 жыл бұрын

    Me and my Dad were literally just having a debate about button-handedness last night! He concluded that a polo he got from work must have been a women's one because when he put it on he couldn't do the buttons because they were on the wrong side and that made me have to check all of my own button shirts to confirm that they were different from men's. It even extended to our hoodies with zippers!

  • @liav4102

    @liav4102

    2 жыл бұрын

    I remember button handedness was the main clue to solving a case for Encyclopedia Brown

  • @karenramnath9993

    @karenramnath9993

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@liav4102 Encyclopedia Brown!!!🤩

  • @sewthernbelle
    @sewthernbelle2 жыл бұрын

    I know you’re going for historically accurate but since this is a cosplay too could have saved yourself a couple of hours research because most Muppets including Gonzo are left handed. Because the Muppeteer uses his right hand to make the Muppet talk while using their left hand to control their hand.

  • @waterbitten

    @waterbitten

    2 жыл бұрын

    Huh! *the more you know* thanks for sharing a different perspective.

  • @SingingSealRiana

    @SingingSealRiana

    2 жыл бұрын

    my handedness has no influence on the garment closures though

  • @sewthernbelle

    @sewthernbelle

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@SingingSealRiana it depends. Some people don’t care either way but others prefer their dominant hand

  • @tananario

    @tananario

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@SingingSealRiana What’s does that have to do with a muppet’s waistcoat?

  • @SingingSealRiana

    @SingingSealRiana

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@tananario that handedness is not the definit "this is how it has to be" factor as stated

  • @inerlogic
    @inerlogic2 жыл бұрын

    "I felt it would be too much" Excuse me Ms Nicole..... have you even met Gonzo?

  • @Whitney_Sews
    @Whitney_Sews2 жыл бұрын

    It turned out amazing! The leather piece to hold the buttons is brilliant.

  • @twobluestripes
    @twobluestripes2 жыл бұрын

    I work in a uniform that includes trousers, white shirt (one chest pocket) and vest (as well as tie, cap, optional jackets, etc). The vest has two small welted pockets at the waist, and one medium interior pocket at the top left chest. The trousers have 4 pockets, traditional welted back pockets and side slit front pockets. You would be surprised how much I and my coworkers use the little vest pickets. We shove in there lip balm, watch, hand lotion, small pen or pencil, folded bits of paper like work info packets, money including coins and bills. receipts, tiny flashlights, our face masks, hair ties or clips, whatever! They are such essential pockets in our daily lives at work that if we pick up a vest at the uniform checkout that doesn’t have real pockets (for a time a few years back they were making them false!), we cut the welts open and just fill the lining of our vest as if it’s one giant pocket. True story!

  • @GuiSmith

    @GuiSmith

    Жыл бұрын

    Whole body pockets, sounds handy!

  • @BrandonGrew
    @BrandonGrew2 жыл бұрын

    Gonzo ensemble? You mean … a Gonzemble?

  • @sonipitts

    @sonipitts

    2 жыл бұрын

    *chokes on tea* 🤣🤣🤣

  • @aaescas

    @aaescas

    2 жыл бұрын

    👆 I was just checking to see if anyone had said this and I'm so glad other folks' brains are also going "... Gonzemble!"

  • @argusfleibeit1165
    @argusfleibeit11652 жыл бұрын

    The doggie looks worried at the end. My mom had nurse's uniforms years ago that had removable shank buttons, that were held on individually by tiny "cotter's pin" type fasteners through the shanks. I wonder if they still make them? She would take the buttons on and off every time she laundered the uniforms, which was of course after every shift that they were worn. I had the job of putting the buttons back on when I was old enough. Eventually she got new uniforms that had regular buttons or zippers.

  • @JeanneLugertLadyTatsLace

    @JeanneLugertLadyTatsLace

    2 жыл бұрын

    My mother's uniform did too.

  • @rosequill7925

    @rosequill7925

    2 жыл бұрын

    They do still make them. They're used a lot in military dress uniforms. My dad gave me some of his for the first coat I made where I was very indecisive about buttons and wanted the ability to change them out easily

  • @stevezytveld6585

    @stevezytveld6585

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@rosequill7925 Of course! On the Military Dress-uniforms the buttons can be absolutely huge. Removable buttons makes the Laundress' job so much easier. Saves the fabric supporting the buttons from undo strain. Just brilliant. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

  • @joehonan1773

    @joehonan1773

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@stevezytveld6585 also allows you to shine the buttons without worrying about the fabric otherwise you would use a button stick

  • @stevezytveld6585

    @stevezytveld6585

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@joehonan1773 Of course. Shine-y buttons. Essential for surviving Boot Camp. Brilliant. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

  • @paulinedunne3481
    @paulinedunne34812 жыл бұрын

    and to think i had just decided that that fox waistcoat was 'too much work'. it is. i'm still going to make it.

  • @gretaface
    @gretaface2 жыл бұрын

    Obviously what you need in your waistcoat pocket is a miniature of Gonzo.

  • @dancingsmiler
    @dancingsmiler2 жыл бұрын

    Your waistcoat turned out amazing! I really like the saturated colors. The tiny pockets in front do have a function! The left pocket is for your pocket watch with the chain fed through one of the buttonholes, and the right pocket is for your watch key--if your watch requires one.

  • @sarahtaylor4264
    @sarahtaylor42642 жыл бұрын

    What I got out of this video (regarding Western clothing): The most simple explanations are usually the best. Most people are right hand dominant, therefore left over right is easier for the population to fasten as a whole. Women's garments start using hooks and eyes, which requires a new technique to sew and fasten in which the opposite is true. It sticks around after buttons make a comeback and so both ways of doing buttons coexist. Then people need some grand philisophical reason for things and use gender to make those theories work.

  • @deefjohnholler

    @deefjohnholler

    2 жыл бұрын

    simple is always best. this is called occum's razor. it is a concept in philosophy. i agree with what you say but i feel that gendering is the simplest explanation and i dont think nicole is dismissing intentional gendering as a contributing factor. gender is as much part of victorian society as it is of our own and it needs to be acknowledged as a co-factor. that is what i got out of this video.

  • @wwaxwork

    @wwaxwork

    2 жыл бұрын

    Gendering is the simple explanation.

  • @ragnkja

    @ragnkja

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@wwaxwork Your “simpler explanation” just raises new questions, which are answered by the hooks-and-bars explanation.

  • @kimberly3299
    @kimberly32992 жыл бұрын

    Something of note about the gendered-button-side-thing; I once learned in a fashion class that even though women's garments are often right-over-left, the ones that aren't (low-priced jeans being huge suspects of this) is because they are manufactured on the same machines that make men's styles. Instead of changing the machinery to put fly zippers in right-over-left, they just do it left-over-right and people buying the women's style just have to deal with it. Women's dress slacks and trousers, especially of a nicer brand, will more often have the fly right-over-left.

  • @ecologicaladam7262
    @ecologicaladam72622 жыл бұрын

    Such gorgeous fabric 👍 I remember back in the '70s when I was slim (!) buying a pair of ladies jeans as the fit was better, but oh , having the fly the wrong way round completely flummoxed me! 🙃

  • @gilbertdolthalion8284
    @gilbertdolthalion82842 жыл бұрын

    And then Gonzo is non-gendered anyway, to add in another layer of button confusion. Or remove all of them. Love this, and the whole project!

  • @sasquatch3518

    @sasquatch3518

    2 жыл бұрын

    While there is the running gag that Gonzo is "whatever" the other muppets and even the muppeteers still tend to refer to Gonzo as he/him but that aside in this instance Gonzo was portraying Charles Dickens who definitely is gendered male.

  • @ragnkja

    @ragnkja

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@sasquatch3518 Gonzo is definitely a “whatever” if you’re asking about species.

  • @jackdaw6095

    @jackdaw6095

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@sasquatch3518 pronouns don't necessarily align to gender

  • @medeaworbs6970

    @medeaworbs6970

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@sasquatch3518 nonbinary person speaking here: Using he/him or she/her pronouns is not unique to male identifying people. Not all nonbinary people use they/them pronouns. Gonzo might use he/him pronouns but that doesnt mean he is a man

  • @somethingclever8916

    @somethingclever8916

    2 жыл бұрын

    I never thought of gonzos gender

  • @christineherrmann205
    @christineherrmann2052 жыл бұрын

    I'm just so sad that we haven't gotten an Abby Cox Miss Piggy dress. Or Kermit; that would be amazing, too. Because COSPLAY GOALS. The waistcoat is absolutely stunning.

  • @NWolfsson

    @NWolfsson

    2 жыл бұрын

    Hear me out: Karolina Zebrovska making a Kermit-inspired dress/suit.

  • @mirjanbouma

    @mirjanbouma

    2 жыл бұрын

    I'm in favour of all of these! A while back a lot of lovely ladies including Nicole and Abby did Disney princess outfits... Can we hope for a Muppets Christmas Carol version?! 🤩

  • @maryeckel9682

    @maryeckel9682

    2 жыл бұрын

    The challenge would be to keep Abby/Piggy from running after the guy who plays young Scrooge 🤣

  • @elisabethm9655
    @elisabethm96552 жыл бұрын

    Point of interest…yes, in traditional Jewish menswear, the closures are always right over left - specifically done to differentiate the garments from gentile styles and a symbol of pacifism. I’m not sure when this sartorial rule began, but the 19th c. portrait of my husband’s grandfather has them right over left. ❤️ your waistcoat! Totally Gonzo!

  • @eosvartauga
    @eosvartauga2 жыл бұрын

    Button placement, a wonderful thing to add to the Giant List of "Victorians just made shit up"

  • @aksez2u
    @aksez2u2 жыл бұрын

    Super interesting detail where the button shanks extend through grommets and are anchored by a strip of leather. I've never seen anything like that before.

  • @kathmorgan3429
    @kathmorgan34292 жыл бұрын

    I always thought someone on the team must have had a great time making dapper little outfits for Gonzo. He had some great little chicken print shirts.

  • @kagitsune
    @kagitsune2 жыл бұрын

    I know it might seem obvious to you all, but actually watching someone hand-sew a waistcoat makes a lot of the seam/stitch types used at the time make sense. I've been over here in industrial sewing land, and it's easy to forget that what's easier under a machine foot is probably not what's easier with a hand-held needle.

  • @rburns8083
    @rburns80832 жыл бұрын

    I was hoping Nicole would say buttons are like that because of the patriarchy so I could do a shot.

  • @kimbelinag

    @kimbelinag

    2 жыл бұрын

    You win Patreon today!

  • @TheMetatronGirl

    @TheMetatronGirl

    2 жыл бұрын

    Buah ha ha ha! 🤣

  • @deefjohnholler

    @deefjohnholler

    2 жыл бұрын

    because of the patriarchy. now drink.

  • @lorisewsstuff1607

    @lorisewsstuff1607

    2 жыл бұрын

    🤣

  • @christineherrmann205

    @christineherrmann205

    2 жыл бұрын

    I'm so glad I wasn't the only one.

  • @tambriggs
    @tambriggs2 жыл бұрын

    That is one smart waistcoat. I think Gonzo would approve!

  • @rcbirdy3758
    @rcbirdy37582 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for covering the button thing! I was one of those people who assumed it was weapons-related (cowboys rather than swordfighters but the explanation was the same), but the hooks and eyes explanation makes a lot of sense. (The eye roll at 17:15 is a big mood!) This is also useful information for my one-of-these-days Genderqueer Victorian Wizard costume that I'm planning out. Love the reveal at the end, very dapper!

  • @noaccount2494

    @noaccount2494

    2 жыл бұрын

    Mad love for genderqueer rep

  • @stevezytveld6585
    @stevezytveld65852 жыл бұрын

    Dear Ms. Rudolph, if there were awards for sewing, you'd at least be at the Peabody level. That vest is stunning. And that trick with the buttons has literally just blown my mind. It is So ingenious. The Keystone vest that Ms. Banner made is what hooked me into sewing in the first place. And curvy, plus size me has been plotting out how to make The Waistcoat that I've always wanted ever since. Thank you. This video is about to be on repeat a whole bunch of times. _A theory_ - The small pockets are to meant hang your thumbs from. So you can bounce on your toes, patting your belly, as you hold forth. Or so I would imagine. OK, so I can totally see myself doing that. According to the google machine, pocket watches became common in 1857 when the gear parts became standardized. So, this is an evolutionary step that becomes the watch pocket? - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

  • @KenZchameleon
    @KenZchameleon2 жыл бұрын

    It's fabulous! I was always told the "maids dressed the women" myth and never thought anything of it. I've learned so much from your videos. I'm looking forward to the next one.

  • @TheChickiboots
    @TheChickiboots2 жыл бұрын

    Wow, the version of why buttons are on the opposite side from men to women that I was brought up with was that it was so the men could undo the women's clothing more easily when they were getting undressed to sleep together! Sorry, I don't have a source it's just the one "everyone knew" as I was growing up

  • @bossyboots5000

    @bossyboots5000

    2 жыл бұрын

    Things that make you go "ew"

  • @sharonmontano4924

    @sharonmontano4924

    11 ай бұрын

    Yuck! 😂

  • @Hair8Metal8Karen
    @Hair8Metal8Karen2 жыл бұрын

    I remember hearing the "women have maids" theory on The Antiques Roadshow (UK) years ago. Obviously an old white man was saying it 😂

  • @cherisseepp5332
    @cherisseepp53322 жыл бұрын

    I love that you made the bow tie for your puppy. Very dapper and festive.

  • @yoshiew05
    @yoshiew052 жыл бұрын

    It never occurred to me to do a welt pocket by hand!! Makes total sense as one has SO much more control! Duh…

  • @creepydoll2872
    @creepydoll28722 жыл бұрын

    Nicole you look so pretty with this 1930s style wavy dark hair and the dark eyeshadow and lipstick recently. Looks perfect on you.

  • @MossyMozart
    @MossyMozart2 жыл бұрын

    Ms Rudolph --- I would find a specific video on pattern matching to be EXTREMELY helpful. Also, when you have critical pattern matching in a garment, how much extra fabric do you need to buy? Would 1-1/2 x the recommended yardage be reasonable? I like the fabric you chose for your waistcoat; the colors in Gonzo's are satisfying to see together. (He is blue and the rusty/orangey colors are compliments to his color. How much do you take color schemes, such as analogous, complimentary, tetradic, and the like, into consideration when you design garments and outfits?) The trick of embedding the shanks of the buttons and using the strip of leather is an eye-opener for me. Never would I have thought of doing that. Thank you.

  • @kimzachris5340
    @kimzachris53402 жыл бұрын

    Finally a sensible answer to this age old question! :) My favourite theory before this was that it was a "decency" thing, and that since women usually walked to the left of men (including often being seated to the left in churches), the clothes buttoned away from eachother to prevent peeking. Not that one would see much, but decency rules have always been a bit exaggerated and weird.

  • @tegansutherland7299

    @tegansutherland7299

    2 жыл бұрын

    I'd always been told the way to remember was that if a man is driving and a woman riding passenger, they could both peek down each other's button-up shirts :P It certainly was a memorable image and thus a great mnemonic!

  • @ragnkja

    @ragnkja

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@tegansutherland7299 Except if they’re in a country where they drive on the left, such as Great Britain.

  • @dianavoermans
    @dianavoermans2 жыл бұрын

    What a wonderful colorcombo in the silk. And the waistcoat is absolutely beautiful

  • @TheMetatronGirl
    @TheMetatronGirl2 жыл бұрын

    The waistcoat is fabulous. I just love that tartan! Fascinating construction, too. Edit: Aww!! Bailey’s bow tie is ADORABLE! 😍🤩

  • @kissthestars

    @kissthestars

    2 жыл бұрын

    I love your profile pic

  • @lorisewsstuff1607

    @lorisewsstuff1607

    2 жыл бұрын

    Awww. If there's tartan fabric left Bailey could have a matching bow tie 🎀

  • @TheMetatronGirl

    @TheMetatronGirl

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@kissthestars Thank you! 🥰

  • @kissthestars

    @kissthestars

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@TheMetatronGirl you’re welcome! 😇

  • @emmayoung330
    @emmayoung3302 жыл бұрын

    These videos are like getting to chat about gorgeous clothing with the coolest professor you know! Thank you for all the research and work you put into these videos!

  • @TheEconWoman
    @TheEconWoman2 жыл бұрын

    Oh my gosh this is perfect! You’ve come so far with your videography and presentation skills. The research and amount of sewing detail that you show is truly amazing. This may be one of my all-time videos surrounding sewing.

  • @lisettegarcia
    @lisettegarcia2 жыл бұрын

    4:18 - Nice shoutout, thank you! For such a highly stylized set of garments, it is odd (and sad) that it is almost always omitted from discussion. Thank you for delivering concise yet thorough content, as always! 🤗

  • @rebeccacuthbertson1271
    @rebeccacuthbertson12712 жыл бұрын

    Holy wow that came together much more quickly than I anticipated. I was just like, "but wait, we're done?" 😅 looks incredible Nicole!

  • @heatherrandle1307
    @heatherrandle13072 жыл бұрын

    This video came at the perfect time. I have been trying making a waistcoat for my husband for our vow renewal for months and was honestly at the point of giving up. the techniques you have shown are the ones that just did not make any sense in the written pattern I was originally going to use. Thank You!! BTW the ASMR in your videos is just so soothing, I wish I could just listen to that while i did all my work.

  • @diamondslashranch
    @diamondslashranch2 жыл бұрын

    I’m so glad to have found this channel. The absolute most sensible person on these topics on you tube.

  • @emeraldh80
    @emeraldh802 жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much for doing menswear, I've been trying to figure out how to do a waistcoat (a little earlier than this era) for a while and this was really helpful!

  • @AlexLostInWonderland
    @AlexLostInWonderland2 жыл бұрын

    So I love this series as a whole and men’s fashion history isn’t covered nearly as much, but I absolutely love the mental whiplash of going from a wonderful fashion history lecture/rant to ‘so Gonzo’. It’s always jarring and I love it.

  • @susannahallanic1167
    @susannahallanic11672 жыл бұрын

    For about 15 years now I have been wearing front closure bras with 'posture' support. My favorite bras close with hook and eyes on the front. They are all left hook into right eye and they are not all the same brand. Then I thought about it and had to go check because I was pretty sure that when I could wear back closure bras it wasn't any different. I've only kept what were my favorite back closure bras so it is not a huge sampling, just 3, but I was wrong. It is right hook into left eye. Go figure.

  • @nanettebromley8843

    @nanettebromley8843

    2 жыл бұрын

    my front fastener bras (and I've just had to check) are all right hook, left eye. Don't have any back fasteners, but from looking at a well known (in the uk at least) clothing company, most, if not all there back fastening bras are right hook left eye. Different places, different fashions.

  • @susannahallanic1167

    @susannahallanic1167

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@nanettebromley8843 I am in agreement. The only rule I can think that makes a good rule of thumb is that if one wears a left over right button-down shirt, so should be the waist coat/vest, jacket, coat. That would also be true for right over left button down.. But I do think that if one endeavors to follow a historical fashion/culture then it might be best recognized as respectful for for the wear what is appropriate for that time.

  • @skullslace2426
    @skullslace24262 жыл бұрын

    I cannot tell you how pleased I was when I watched the Muppet Christmas carol with my family after a terrible, terrible month at work and on the way home I saw you started this project.

  • @Dinuial
    @Dinuial2 жыл бұрын

    When I took his doublet making classes Mathew Gnagy suggested the closure treatment was part of dressmakers establishing themselves as a separate profession from tailors with their own protected techniques.

  • @lucie4185
    @lucie41852 жыл бұрын

    Amazing it already looks very stylish.

  • @FlybyStardancer
    @FlybyStardancer2 жыл бұрын

    Yay it turned out so well!! Nice and bright! And the look into why closures are so weird was interesting and fun!

  • @tristambre632
    @tristambre6322 жыл бұрын

    Your videos are so relaxing, I love this new serie! I truly appreciate the way you teach historical facts about fashion, let's say your whole person is very inspirationnal ^^

  • @haakdraakje
    @haakdraakje2 жыл бұрын

    The pattern matching is top notch! Beautiful result!

  • @dawnbuxton8204
    @dawnbuxton82042 жыл бұрын

    Nicole, I love watching you recreate outfits from movies, photos and extant garments.

  • @vanessajones3508
    @vanessajones35082 жыл бұрын

    Nicole you did a great job.

  • @stephen1r2
    @stephen1r22 жыл бұрын

    A great matching bowtie on that special someone.

  • @RhanorLilybet
    @RhanorLilybet2 жыл бұрын

    I love the sound of the thread going through the glazed cotton. Very soothing ASMR.

  • @Hiker_who_Sews
    @Hiker_who_Sews2 жыл бұрын

    Removable buttons should've continued to be a thing. I remember buttons breaking sometimes when they went through the ringer on our washer. Needle and thread + silk taffeta = ASMR

  • @nicolakunz231
    @nicolakunz2312 жыл бұрын

    This has to be the brightest flashiest thing I've ever seen on this channel but it is so beautifully made!

  • @tealduckduckgoose
    @tealduckduckgoose2 жыл бұрын

    Really enjoying all the history lessons that come along with these videos

  • @ingridhaugen1177
    @ingridhaugen11772 жыл бұрын

    The blouse you're wearing in the intro is gorgeous! So is the waistcoat. :)

  • @cyrilwilde6832
    @cyrilwilde68322 жыл бұрын

    I want to start learning more about historical men’s fashion, but I’m finding it difficult because it keeps showing me more women’s fashion than men’s and I don’t know how or where to start and it’s making me feel kind of overwhelmed

  • @catherinepeloton4446

    @catherinepeloton4446

    2 жыл бұрын

    In France we've got "discussions sartoriales " on youtube channel and Hugo Ducaumet explains on it what it 's to be a french or english or italian gentleman about men fashion I'm a woman but yet l follow his channel becauce l'm fond if all kind of fashion.lf you find out his channel as he's married with an american woman he's got his english channel"sartorial talks" it's called.you 'll learn a lot about shoes fabrics for men tailors in the all world etc...

  • @nian60

    @nian60

    2 жыл бұрын

    Somebody else in this comment section mentioned Zack Pinsent. I don't know who he is, but apparently he dresses in historial clothing. Maybe see if he has some tips?

  • @theFULLMoonKnight

    @theFULLMoonKnight

    2 жыл бұрын

    In my current research journey, there seems to be far more published material in the written form (as in books & a few largely defunct web blogs) than in video format, sadly. I'd definitely recommend checking out pattern books in your preferred time period. Also, some museum's publish books on their collections! I'm frequently perusing eBay & Thrift Books to buy these second hand. I try not to buy from Amazon but you can find used copies of these kinds of books from sellers on there, as well.

  • @JosieAreSee
    @JosieAreSee2 жыл бұрын

    I LOVE seeing how you made things but I love the historical education you share even more.

  • @paula-zzz
    @paula-zzz2 жыл бұрын

    i really like the audio in the stitching segments, i love how the music leads to a relaxed atmosphere but you can still hear the fabric and the pricks of the needle, it's just a very unique and calm vibe i really really love!

  • @davederrick9431
    @davederrick94312 жыл бұрын

    Beautiful hand stitching🙂

  • @kendallblunt499
    @kendallblunt4992 жыл бұрын

    I’m loving this series so much!

  • @TealCheetah
    @TealCheetah2 жыл бұрын

    Great research and a lovely waistcoat!

  • @amaliaseven7
    @amaliaseven72 жыл бұрын

    What a fun series! Thank you

  • @car998
    @car9982 жыл бұрын

    This reminds me of how every year how upset friends and family got when talking about buying shorts for girls. Girl shorts are cut 3 or more inches shorter than boys. The longer ones (such as at Target) found are tights and material is very thin. The complaints of how we don’t want the world to see our daughters underwear patterns was justifiable.

  • @dollhousemakr

    @dollhousemakr

    2 жыл бұрын

    I actually just buy my daughters Target's "boy" shorts. We use the bike shorts for under dresses, but I refuse to buy them regular "girl" shorts. I hate that they are so short.

  • @teresacarle294

    @teresacarle294

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@dollhousemakr 🚳 Still wear bike shorts as an undergarment under skirts & dresses. 😉Like the added security & protection. 🌬️ When touring blustery DT Sydney🐨, remember all the fine ladies exiting restaurants & office towers gamely trying to hold down their billowing suits & skirts. 🤗Didn't have to do any crazy gyrations to retain my own modesty-- even in my more casual summer gear. 👑 Kate Middleton even had a few whoops-a-daisy moments in midi length dresses on their official tours. In her brief style of high fashion underpants, she also flashed a lot of toned leg & backside. Nothing more than what most girls show-off at the pool👙, but too much skin for me to expose in public😱. Even under maxi skirts, bike shorts keep sweat💦 from the thighs in a 🥵 hot climate like Los Angeles. ☀️It also helps keep things shielded in the bright sun, if your summery fabric turns to be a bit sheer. 💚 Bridget from Cali☘️ (Using my pal's YT acct)

  • @pheart2381

    @pheart2381

    2 жыл бұрын

    Maybe they should explore making the shorts themselves? They will be in control of the fabric and length.

  • @jemima2879
    @jemima28792 жыл бұрын

    Glorious!

  • @bhavens9149
    @bhavens91492 жыл бұрын

    Absolutely Love it! Fabulous as usual! good job!

  • @jackiejames4551
    @jackiejames45512 жыл бұрын

    It's beautiful.

  • @litzgrahmann6468
    @litzgrahmann64682 жыл бұрын

    Beautiful, I love it!

  • @patriciamills4750
    @patriciamills47502 жыл бұрын

    I adore your videos! I always learn so much.

  • @beatrizmedina_mabe
    @beatrizmedina_mabe2 жыл бұрын

    Fantastic work. I'm mesmerized.

  • @MysteryMommy1
    @MysteryMommy12 жыл бұрын

    Gorgeous

  • @roxiepoe9586
    @roxiepoe95862 жыл бұрын

    beautiful.

  • @autumn7143
    @autumn71432 жыл бұрын

    It looks wonderful!!! Great work!!!

  • @SpaceSoups
    @SpaceSoups2 жыл бұрын

    Can't wait for it to be finished!

  • @anarosareyes6269
    @anarosareyes62692 жыл бұрын

    Ooooh this is si exiting! I can't wait for the whole outfit! Really interesting conversation about the gendering of buttons, my theory is that is only a matter of making diferences between men and women with no reason whatsoever

  • @caraboska
    @caraboska Жыл бұрын

    Matching bowtie for doggie is simply charming!

  • @saphirephoenix1173
    @saphirephoenix11732 жыл бұрын

    Your small, furry companion looked very dapper in the bow: almost as dapper as you did! I can't wait to see the next installment.

  • @ScribeAdept
    @ScribeAdept2 жыл бұрын

    You always lay out the history, theories, and debunking (if applicable) in such a sensible but fun and interesting manner!

  • @10BoredMan
    @10BoredMan2 жыл бұрын

    I love your channel so, so much. thank you.

  • @ElizabethEstervig
    @ElizabethEstervig2 жыл бұрын

    Puppy! Gorgeous video as always. ❤️

  • @Inthepotwithdiogenes
    @Inthepotwithdiogenes2 жыл бұрын

    This project is pure delight.

  • @lawrencereeves5798
    @lawrencereeves57982 жыл бұрын

    Loved the fabric, looks amazing

  • @jeannette7243
    @jeannette72432 жыл бұрын

    Wow, I love this! I love the making of the garments, but also the research you put into these videos. The gendered buttons have always been a mystery to me - I remember wondering what that was about when I was a small kid.

  • @hattyburrow716
    @hattyburrow7162 жыл бұрын

    What a fabulous piece! Just stunning, and the matching bow tie 💚

  • @frantiszek9433
    @frantiszek94332 жыл бұрын

    Beautiful makeup and pretty dress, Nicole!

  • @anamae03
    @anamae03 Жыл бұрын

    Wow! You're so talented!! :)

  • @joecoloff4247
    @joecoloff42472 жыл бұрын

    Fantastic

  • @Thekidfromcalifornia2.0
    @Thekidfromcalifornia2.02 жыл бұрын

    I love this style of button attachment

  • @Caerigna
    @Caerigna2 жыл бұрын

    the little bow tie for puppers was an adorable addition. ^^

  • @molnotmole3428
    @molnotmole34282 жыл бұрын

    Man I love this whole gonzo series

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