I love all the information! I was thinking the other day that I have to do something about my container, and here you are today giving me all the info I need! Thank you, Channing! ( Catch your breath! 😍)

Great timing for the information.

Hey, that was a great video. Thank you! Look forward to them, I always learn something. !!!!!

You just answered the question I had thanks so much

@TheContainerGuyTV

6 ай бұрын

Glad it helped

Great video!!

Good Info i will watch Out for this

Thanks for everything Awesome 👌 👏 👍

When my dad built a barn around a container 8 or 10 years ago, he poured a 12 inch wide reinforced concrete bar the width of the corners on each end, and set the container on that.

Thank you. Very helpful. I'll be leveling mine after Christmas.

@TheContainerGuyTV

6 ай бұрын

Merry Christmas!

@simonthebroken9691

6 ай бұрын

@TheContainerGuyTV I hope you do as well. I appreciate your content very much.

Great video!!. Got damn this guys channel blew up! Bravo.

Great info, thank you.

Great information, thank you sir.

Thank u....good content

Got damn this guys channel blew up! Bravo

Very helpful and informative

Very informative videos and well spoken.

The last thing you said was all I was looking for

Great information! You answered all of my questions!

@TheContainerGuyTV

14 күн бұрын

Glad I could help. Cheers

Great editing choices, had a good laugh at a couple sections in here. I’ve heard crushed quarter inch rock is best to keep pests away, we did it under a buddies shop a couple years back. No issues.

@Dang_Near_Fed_Up

3 ай бұрын

Small stone like crush and run, will pack like concrete over time and pests do not like having to dig through packed stone. But this packing requires that the stone is moved over by a load, which it does not get under a shipping container. So unless you have the stone packed before placing the shipping container you aren't going to get this benefit. Smaller stone is however easier to move / shift while leveling a container, as opposed to 3 to 4 inch stones, so there is some benefit to smaller stone, but you don't need to go down to 1/4 inch fine, simple gravel should be more than adequate.

My containers sit on the high plains desert of southern Wyoming. It's not uncommon to see 50-60 mph+ winds and the frost line is 56". I drilled 60" deep by 12" holes at the corners and then every 8'. I set sonotubes and poured 72" x 12" caissons and then wet-set 1/2" thick weld plates with 36" x 5/8" rebar legs into the tubes. Then I had a massive vertical mast forklift set my containers on the caissons. The containers are now welded to the Earth. I don't own a laser and didn't want to rent one so I made my own bunyip with a milk jug, a 100' of clear hose, and red koolaid. Overall I set 58 sonotubes/caissons and my largest margin of error, using the bunyip, was about 3/16th of an inch on one of my caissons.

Use white oak when possible if using wood blocking. It is very resistant to compression. That is why it is the only wood blocking that is approved for workholding and blocking up things like forklifts during maintenance work under then.

@silverbackag9790

3 ай бұрын

Railroad ties in the eastern half of the US are generally white oak. I seriously doubt that’s the case west of central KS though. Not sure.

Awesome video thank you for sharing out of curiosity can containers be delivered and set on 18" concrete footers? Or does it have to be crane lifted to set on footers?

I prefer the shipping container to be at least 24" off the ground so that I can get underneath it to remove any pests that might have crawled under there and died. It also makes it easier if you eventually decide to put anything that needs plumbing in the container.. And then there is the issue of keeping it up high enough for any minor flooding...

@ForbiddTV

Ай бұрын

Ever have a problem with wasp/hornets/bees nests attached to the structure bottom?

What about using some good rail road ties to use them to lay the container on ? Where im at in western Wisconsin my land has some sand with clay under it but during the summer months when its hot the ground gets hard .

For units with 3 or 4 floors. What you recomend, you have a video?

If you have a can longer than 40 so that you have double set of corner castings for the extensions do you block under the all eight corners then?

I've been looking through a lot of your vids and have a question I havn't seen answered yet. For a residential can, when you spray foam, do you have to install any vents to prevent carbon monoxide issues? Considering all the precautions with vapor barriers I wonder if that's an issue or consideration.

Does replacing the flooring with other materials like polished concrete make a difference in air space requirement? And can you suggest a material that would eliminate that wicking completely?

Happy '24

Good morning, I have been watching your posts and I think I can use your assistance. I am planning on purchasing a 20' 1 time trip shipping container. I want to convert it into a small office with a restroom. I am planning on an 7'x8' restroom and a 7' x12' office. I am thinking that I need two door on the exterior along where the two walls would meet and have them open into the container. The office will be inside a manufacturing plant and will not be exposed to the weather. I am thinking two 36" door along the joining wall. Two - 3 windows one in each of the three walls of the office. Remove container door and use metal studs to create new wall in it's place. I am planning on a split hvac system for air/heating. I also saw your metal Steel Stud Framing Kit for Shipping Containers/Sea Cans - 2 Corner Casting Covers with Steel Stud Brackets (Aluminum, 2 Corner Casting Covers + 20 Steel Stud Brackets) and the Container Modification World® - Modular Strut Systems (MSS) (1-Way Bracket 10 Pack, Galvanized Finish, 10). What do I really need to create this space? I think your doing a great job on making it easier to do a btter job for really anyone. So I would appreciate any assistance tat you can provide as I am working on a purchase order and need all of the parts and pieces for a successful build. Thanks, Brian

Will refrigerator container wick moisture If sitting on the ground ?

I'm going to set up 2x2s and make a workshop between them, maybe I'll just pour a little more concrete and won't need any washers :)?

what about blocks with container latches embedded in concrete footings? secure to ground for weather, not just sitting unlatched on blocks.

How do you recommend lifting an existing container that has sat for a while and needs to be adjusted. I'm not going to use the killer jack-all

For long-term or even permanent placing, would you recommend a concrete pillar reinforced with rebar? Would that be better than a flat concrete slab, even with the pads you demonstrated?

@itsruffoutchea6636

2 ай бұрын

That is a question he should've answered. All these examples he gave just seem like temporary solutions. Should've gave best examples for not worrying about settling happening.

I’m a little confused on this, because on the foundation video you mentioned counter sinking the ends of the foundation so that the bottom is fully supported and doesn’t sag over time. I’m guessing that advice only applies for full concrete pads where all sides are touching?

@pilotguychris7217

6 ай бұрын

I believe that to be correct. But to minimize any condensation or moisture issues on the underside of the container you could use a simple blower fan system in the fork pockets of the container.

I understand the need to raise them for airflow. You mentioned rodents, do they chew through the plywood floor? Do other animals also chew through the floor (like beavers/groundhogs)? Do you ever find bees/wasps/hornets making huge nests under the floor? My site is very rural and have had problems with all sorts of critters in buildings and heavy equipment..

@VanillaCoke64oz

19 күн бұрын

The bottom of the container is also steel, so nothing is burrowing into it. There is usually a plywood floor on top of the steel floor. IE, "Pest proof"

@ForbiddTV

19 күн бұрын

@@VanillaCoke64oz 1-1/4" plywood subfloor over steel structural "floor joists". There is no steel layer on the underside of the plywood subfloor.

are there any pre made solutions that would be for stem wall/poured foundations that can be cast in place to allow you to take advantage of the existing corner attachment points to secure a container to its foundation in applications like a container wall garage. So far all I've seen is people straight welding it to a steel plate that is cast in the concrete. I kind of want to do a project in the future, and depending on where I do it the only ways the local build codes allow em is if its a temporarily secured structure. the closest thing to "temporary" was a 2 plate system where two plates are bolted together, the bolts are the locking "rebar" the whole assembly is set in concrete and the container is welded to the top plate. I cant see how welding these is a good idea as far as I can tell those corner pieces are cast, at least according to domino clamps, and domino clamps from the people I've talked to are the closest thing but wrong execution and application.

@ForbiddTV

Ай бұрын

In construction we use anchor bolts. They come as thick as 3/4", I would think you could cast those into your reinforced piers/footings and install a steel plate as a washer to fit inside the casting with a 3/4" nut at each corner. Secure and easier to remove than being welded.

You know weight travels at a 45 degree angle. So say you have a 12x12 and you put it on a 1" thick plate your area only increased to 14x14.

What if I used a post hole auger on my skid steer and drilled 18 inch holes down 3 to 4 feet to get in past the frost line, then used those cardboard pier tubes and poured 18 inch concrete peers. Then I was thinking of using rebar to reinforce the concrete and welding a twist lock connector to the rebar that was flush with the surface of the concrete so I could literally lock the container down to the piers. And since I live in tornado alley, I was also wondering what kind of wins that might take to move something like that? Also what kind of puncture resistant would there be on a shipping container that is locked down like that.

@TheContainerGuyTV

6 ай бұрын

You're gonna want to stay toned to the channel. We are working on a potato cannon to shoot 2x4s 100 mph to test our system for Storm Shelter / Tornado Shelter design. They tip over at 140 mph wind speeds so they need to be anchored to the ground. Pouring concrete in place of the floor changes that to 220 mph by lower the COG. If you frame and insulate it with 2lb closed cell insulation then finish the interior with durable wall covering like 3/4" plywood, it's going to be a lot stronger than a regular container. Our final system and suggestion is going to be much different but that's a good starting point.

@patrickmckenzie2391

6 ай бұрын

@@TheContainerGuyTV absolutely. Do you think my pier and twisting locks is a good idea?

@chrisstockwell9235

Ай бұрын

@@patrickmckenzie2391 they sell the locks that lock a container to trl for transport, drop the container on it and twist, this .ight be the most tornado proof concept I've heard of as far as getting blown around, debris is still likely to puncture it. This may be the next best thing to underground

@ForbiddTV

Ай бұрын

@@patrickmckenzie2391 If your auger is 18" diameter and you want 18" diameter piers, you shouldn't need the sonotubes unless your ground is very sandy/unstable. just pour the concrete directly in the holes.

So in the last few seconds, you recommended against blocking under the container along the length (ie., anywhere but the corners) but in one of your earlier videos, you specifically mentioned having some sort of shim under the length if, for instance, it’s on a concrete pad where the length could sag up to half an inch or so… Which is it?

@TheContainerGuyTV

6 ай бұрын

This is a storage container with no walls removed. Nothing will sag. That is for double-wides or modified containers where the floor is going to deflect otherwise. Make sense?

@jasonmitchell432

6 ай бұрын

@@TheContainerGuyTV yes, thanks for clarifying.

@trendinvestor2893

5 ай бұрын

@@TheContainerGuyTV With my 40 foot high cube, I used four inch thick solid cement blocks. I used 8 blocks with 4 at the corners and four spaced evenly (13 feet) apart from the corners. My main reason for placing the extra 4 blocks was to prevent the container from settling into the ground over the years, but I also figured it would not hurt to put a little bit of extra support underneath a 40 foot container. My pad is 6 inches of crushed stone (no stone dust) on top of geo textile fabric to allow really good drainage.

How about ways to lift and move / shove containers

@TheContainerGuyTV

6 ай бұрын

Good video idea.. the farmer method all the way up to using our toplift

@mandown45

6 ай бұрын

You can use the Egyption method of poles and a bobcat excavator truck etc. Lift up your unit and place a timber pole under it and you can roll the unit. Lifting up once in position then place your pad and blocking back in. 👍Great videos thank you. I share them all the time for their information top work. 🙏 Contain Yourself Aust.

@mandown45

6 ай бұрын

Also 8x3 8x2 8ft pressure treated sleepers work great as a starting base before you shim it for level the extra surface area helps keep them stable. And they are the perfect size Bless 🙏

while you have it in the air termite treat the hell out the underside trust me

Just went to Container Modification World's site and cannot find those pads (timestamp 3:30). Please post a link to the product page.

@TheContainerGuyTV

Ай бұрын

They just arrived. I think next week they will be public and available for sale. If you want early access, email sales@containermodificationworld.com

So lets say the left door is low where the doors come together. Would you lift the left corner? Can the container be twisted on the back side cause the doors to misalign?

@TheContainerGuyTV

4 ай бұрын

Yes and yes. If the left door is low (in the middle), either lift the front left corner or the back right corner to fix. Use your judgement. Sounds like the back right might be the issue otherwise you wouldn't have suggested that.

Na I would prefer on a foundation paved , si the house is steady😊

I need to lift one end about 2 or 3 feet. Can you make a pile of gravel and put a block on it? Im afraid stacking blocks that high wont be stable

@TheContainerGuyTV

Ай бұрын

If it's not compacted, it'll settle. You're better off to build up stable blocking by criss crossing 4ft lengths or something.

@embededfabrication4482

Ай бұрын

@TheContainerGuyTV that would make a good video. How to lift and then build cribbing underneath. There's some video of people making cribs for car stands but nothing with 4X6 or 4X4

I have about 18 inches of drop from the front to the back of where I’m going to put my 20 foot container. I was thinking about putting concrete piers with footings and rebar at all 4 corners. Then put about 3 inches of chat down also to help keep grass and whatever else from growing. What are your thoughts?

@TheContainerGuyTV

6 ай бұрын

Is this a storage container or a cabin/home? If for plain storage, that's overkill. Could crib 6x6 blocks 3 courses high at the back end. If you want piles, do you have a local screw pile contractor? Easier to not mix concrete/steel and just stay with steel.

@DavidJones-pn6jm

6 ай бұрын

Ok thank you for the advice!

🤔

Hey, has anyone ever spray foamed under your container? If only 6” off ground, would that not help insulate and prevent pest?

@paulhepfer8155

Күн бұрын

Maybe not completely, to still allow some airflow

@TheContainerGuyTV

14 сағат бұрын

Yes, we often do.

🎄❤️🎄🧡🎄💛🎄💚🎄💙🎄💜🎄 🎄❤️ THANKS FOR SHARING 💜🎄 🎄❤️🎄🧡🎄💛🎄💚🎄💙🎄💜🎄

So what you're saying is little house bricks under all sides every 12 inches is perfect.............

UWU CAT

Thank u....good content