Hi Ivan I have watched you for years but today is the first time I disagree with you that those valve seats look good. When you lap valves in the seat on the head should be a uniform colour with no spots. You start with course and work to fine with the paste. Also by lapping the valves you should assemble the head before fitting and measure the valve lash because you may have the valves you lapped to loose or to tight and you would have to change the shims on those valves before fitting the head. I don't envy on this job and I do get the customer wants a budget job But if the valves are to tight it will have the same problem sooner rather than later.

I'm sure you're getting a ton of "opinions" on this video lol. I know what it's like working for customers on a budget and sometimes you have to do things that aren't 100% but all we can do is try our best. I'm sure the car will run fine. This is the reality of repairs . 👍

Last year I bought a 2015 Legacy from the auction as a non runner from a Subaru dealer. Engine was dismantled and in the trunk, same issue. One exhaust valve was burned out. Car had 125K miles and was in good shape otherwise.

Valve Grind Compound is also good for slightly stripped screws. A little dab on your screw driver gives it a little extra bite on the bit.

Budget or not, when you get inside and see how bad those valves were, it's time to find a way to get those heads to a machine shop.

I always stamp my work "NO GUARANTEE," and never have any issues since I'm the only customer. I had a lot of complaints once, but after some donuts and actually reading the manual, it got resolved to my satisfaction.

Those valves are burnt. The 'crack' is where jets of buring gas went out to the manifold when the spark fired. Enough gas to eat away the valve. The seats on the 1st valve shown in the second cylinder is worn out. You can see the seating area is depressed relative to new. Likely the other side is withing a few thousand of doing the same thing. The engine was run hard, and likely overheated(remember the silver-seal found in the water jacket). "Rode hard and put away wet." I hope you are giving zero guarantee as it will likely be back, or will be sold to an unsuspecting Subaru enthusiast who will need to do the rest of the job soonly.

I am so glad i have a 2001 subaru outback where you dont have to remove the cams to get to the head bolts, they started making things more difficult as the years went by, same with all cars and trucks, its called engineering against the consumer

Way back in the mid'70's i worked in a automotive machine shop. We had a customer that was in the propane business and they ran their trucks on propane also. They used to burn up exhaust valves big time. Propane burns quite a bit hotter that gasoline. My guess on the Subaru is that it's running too lean but you made a good point on the valve not contacting the seat fully and not transferring the heat sufficiently! Good job!

there's a reason it had a new cat on it. ingesting oil bad metal and that cooled egr. cooling the egr gasses allows the vapors to condensate out enough to turn them corrosive.

Hi IVAN,I'm afraid your going to get flak on this one.Most guys here that have done this type of repair{lapping valves in}noticed the VALVE SEATS.Any pitting {the dark spots}on the seat also is a place that doesn't transfer heat.OR can still leak

I have a 2015 Subaru, and the last time I had it at the dealer they asked me to do a warrantied leakdown test, even though I had no issues. Not surprisingly it passed. I wonder if they had a bad batch of valves that year.

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The poor seat on the exhaust valve prevents heat transfer to the cylinder head, over heats the valve and resulted in the crack. The real question is why the seats are so bad? This may be a manufacturing issue, especially knowing about the change to the valvetrain on the other bank.

Considering if you remember the end of PT 1 where Ivan wanted NOTHING to do with this repair, he's at least trying to help this customer out whereas most other shops would likely only install a new(er) engine as most shops won't tie up a bay for a car like this for someone on a tight budget. I used to work for used car dealers and we would do jobs like this and the amount of comebacks was very low. As long as your customer fully understands that this type of job is very hard to guarantee then I see no issue. At least we see effort, I know more than a few mechanics that would just slap valves in without any prep.

Ivan, holding my breath that everything goes well. Looking forward to Part 4. Thanks for Sharing!

If the Subbies have valve shims? That suggest that they need valve adjustments?

About lapping the valves; I remember back when I was in high school I was watching a mechanic work on some valves and he had a rubber suction cup attached to the end of a dowel rod and he just rolled the rod back and forth in his hands to lap the valves. Seemed to work really well. I guess that was back in the "old days". 😄

The paste you're using is still available here in Europe! Same exact metal can and everything :D

My opinion.. Motor should have come out. Both heads sent to machine shop to get completely done properly. Valves adj etc.