Ice Screw Tests at kzread.info/dash/bejne/eq2TuZNpqLDYc7A.html and this blog and data is at www.hownot2.com/post/vthreads Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

You are actually doing so much for spreading climbing knowledge and awareness, you should receive grants from alpine associations.

@winterroadspokenword4681

Жыл бұрын

He doesn’t need alpine associations. We can donate directly to him, simply because we like the work 😊 That way we cut out the middlemen.

@sinisterthoughts2896

2 ай бұрын

True, but doesn't mean he can't be supported by both.​@@winterroadspokenword4681

Would love to see two follow ups: - what about 16 cm screws ? - test in some nice blue/transparent icefall ice

woo! thanks guys. I would be super stoked to see this on water ice as well as 10-13cm a thread strength.

Beyond thankyou. I'm planning a trip to Greenland in 2024. Touch wood, we go around the problems & watch the world go by. But ... should we need to go up / down a glacier that we didn't expect, then confidence in how strong a v-thread is pretty high on the list of things to know.

@luc4662

Жыл бұрын

Sounds interesting… can you make us dream and share a bit your plans?

Very much appreciate the ice videos. As an avid ice climber, who has taken a grand total of 1 ice fall ( system held!) I've wanted to see demos vs. reading about how/why screws fail. I will say that you chose excellent ice to test with, as opposed to the aerated, wet, brittle, plating, or other less than 'ideal' ice I've led in the past. Despite the test results, and my fall experience, I still will never trust ice. But still, great videos, much appreciated.

Thank you so much Ryan! Been patiently waiting for this one!

It’d be cool if you tested snow anchors. Bollard T picket Ice axe boot belay

@CJski

Жыл бұрын

I think he did test some snow anchors in another video

dope to see you testing on ice!

Nice job guys! Thank you💪😘

I think this the perfect channel for this issue: I feel like we as sportsclimbers destroy our holds by "polishing" them with our sweat and chalk. In the long term our grandchildren will have to climb polished holds without good friction. Can we as a climbing community avoid this? For example by making it a habit to clean all the holds after sending the route? Probably it is too much work and annoying for most climbers... Or is there another way? Looking forward to a discussion :)

@matonni7

Жыл бұрын

You still can forbid use of chalk, as in many (sandstone) crags in CZ or DE :D And honestly, when the rock has a good friction (most of jurassic limestone in Europe, or volcanic rocks), it's more of a habit than of a need.

Cool stuff! Loved it

Super surprised how strong those shallow looking v-threads were, though I'm no ice climber. Didn't expect even the 6mm cord to break before the ice Part of me wonders how strong that drill bit would be as an ice screw with a little modification to the chuck end

Great video!

Would love to see a comparison with Waterfall Ice, and a comparison V-thread and A-thread.

@hugh4658

Жыл бұрын

From memory, A-threads are meant to be marginally stronger, but they are both so strong that the difference between them in their intended application is kinda semantics. I go with A-threads because it's way easier to line it up correctly and therefore faster.

You should go back and retest the DEEP A-thread using the Slack Snap. Should be fun hauling it out there.

Thankyou!

Thanks!

Interesting experiments

What about using a Velcro closure strap. Easy to remove/open the case, and easy/quick to close again? (I appreciate you needed a "Band-Aid" solution while in the field, but moving forward?)

thanks! ♥

A metric inch 😅😆

want to see similar tests in 'normal' cliff ice with these ever so changing temperature climate ;-0)

Title shouldn't be "ropes vs ice, which breaks first", it's "ropes vs glacier ice..". Big diff!

Lee Vinning waterfall ice next

The angle of that pull was not the angle of a fall? Still impressively strong.

coat hanger > sweatshop made v thread tool

Are you sure the measurements you’re getting are accurate? It looks like you have the safety line attached to the line scale, wouldn’t it measure the shock from being caught by its safety line?

9:52 - "You had like, a metric inch." A metric inch? Must be an American thing.

@daxhopkins7312

Жыл бұрын

The inch is defined by the metric system. The standard inches of the imperial system are, in a way, metric inches

i wonder why it'll be going away anyway

This is some great engineering data. I like watching the interatomic bond being tested to the breaking point. I call this the interatomic bomb theory, which is a failure pun. Engineering jokes are only understood by a few.

👌🏻

Interesting

Who invented V threads in ice?

Go waterfall ice!

I wanna buy a drill instead of ice screw.like yours.looks very fast to make a deep hole😅😅

Ice = transient

Why didn't you test the 8mm thread?🥺

that ice is not ideal

These were used on lead climbing in Russia 20 + years ago, maybe more. Best vthread tool is a coat hanger. If you bring a bud ass drill wgy don't you bring a come-a-long.

What's a metric inch?? 😂

@docteurlowbat

Жыл бұрын

Well, it's an inch. Because as far as there where differents values accros the world they decide that the inch is exactly ...25.4 mm. So metric system rules the inch !

At 9:54 - A metric inch? - What is that?

@markus717

Жыл бұрын

25.4 mm

This is great content. I just had to take the chance to make the first comment.

Why do you call them "V threads" instead of by their name, "Avalakovs"?