Hey Gang, lots of worrying (and assumptions) in the comments! We consulted with our Engineers before we made this fix. The problem is the connection between the walls creating a hinging point across a long span, due to lack of balloon framing. Our main concern was tying these walls together and we succeeded. We will continue to upgrade this connection and the wall itself by adding more supports and braces where necessary. We weren't planning on making a follow up video to this, but if ya'll want to see one let us know here!

@GotGracexxxxx

10 ай бұрын

Would definitely like to see more on this. Maybe an interview with the engineer? I don’t think you’ve mentioned them since before switching the trusses.

@bernieman4

10 ай бұрын

All good SP...we all learn from this...I will stay tune, as I'm sure you'll provide subsequent updates. The interior gypboards will also add a bit of stiffness to the entire wall. Nothing will fall...just a bit "buzzy" as there be a bit more vibration. Framing in that subscribe button and smashing it! 😅

@pfarabee

10 ай бұрын

I'd chalk the concern up to the fact that everyone likes you guys and wants Jordan's house to be absolutely safe.. at least that's what it is for me. Edit: Yes, it think it would be interesting to see how you further shore up the wall, what, if anything, you do to the opposing wall on the opposite end, and any insight your engineer gave you about the issue. :) I'd also be interested to hear what the manufacturer sheet for your trusses says about the lateral bracing (or hear again most likely if you've already mentioned those requirements for your trusses in a previous video). I was alarmed when I noticed the lack of lateral bracing between the trusses, since I'm so accustomed to seeing it, and I apologize if I got excited for no reason.

@radozeman

10 ай бұрын

I'm curious how this slipped by in the first place....

@CameronRounder

10 ай бұрын

Would be great to hear the engineer talk through the solutions they proposed to you. I'm assuming engineers have to work through situations where a builder makes decisions and it effects the strength of the structure from time to time. Also be great to see how much structural strength was actually added based on the solution. You can tell the wall has been strengthened since it isn't moving by pushing it anymore, but how will it hold up to strong winds?

Building Inspector here, in Texas as well! Wondered why you guys didn’t balloon frame that to begin with but glad to see you threw in the LVL’s to stiffen it up. However, now that you’ve cut the top plates you need to strap across them horizontally per IRC 602.6.1 with a 1.5” wide 16 ga metal strap that extends at least 6” past each side of the cut with at least eight 10d nails on each side. Enjoy watching your videos!

@StudPack

10 ай бұрын

📝

@guatf1

10 ай бұрын

Now that's a comment you can do something with! Awesome to see everybody helping these amazing guys

@ronlovell5374

10 ай бұрын

The wall will still flex/move in it's center, but this would definitely help with downward spreading forces from being transferred mostly to the sheathing. How about a full span horizontally installed angle iron, or a C style flinch beam? This could be boxed in to be a decorative ledge, shelf or beam that could also be back-lit for a cool effect.

@jimg2885

10 ай бұрын

If you are a building inspector I would think you would comment on that they have only 4 continuous full length studs. I am a retired General Contractor and they have double trimmers at each side of the windows and only 1 king. So they have now 4 studs taking the entire wall wind and stress load. I can guarantee that any engineer I have ever dealt with would never allow 1 king stud on each side of the window openings. As far s Paul saying he checked with the engineer and he ok'd what they did. Hard for me to believe he would allow just the 4 studs.Should of had at least 2 per side.

@mattwilliamson1714

10 ай бұрын

@@StudPack you don’t “need” it, but with the walls still open, maybe consider adding blocking for a handrail on the other side of the stairwell. Even if you don’t use it now, if you ever have any friends, family, or guests (maybe a collaborating KZreadr staying there after you’re done & in the “Big House”) with mobility issues, it would be easier for them to climb up the stairs with 2 handrails. (I’m a few years behind Paul, but at Jordan’s age: double handrails were amazing for supporting my weight on both arms, swinging my legs out, & sliding down stairs ways in 1 or 2 jumps.) 😬 The other places I’d add blocking are every place a door handle opens into a wall… won’t ever punch thru the drywall.

I love that y'all always own up to your mistakes and then show how to fix them! Stud Pack continues to be a role model!

You need to reconnect the cut double top plates with metal straps. This should be required by code and will also help stiffen the wall.

While you guys are still in framing mode, here's something that the inspector might not even catch, but probably needs correcting. @20:35 - As you pan up that wall, notice how the truss foot is cut on either side. You had to do that to get in your tall vertical supports, but it causes an issue. Now, whatever weight is pushing down on that detached 2 foot section of truss foot is being sent down awkwardly to an offset 2x4 that is 6 inches to the right of it. This will not be adequate over time to effectively transfer that weight down your wall. You may even see that cut section of truss foot twist over time. To correct this, cut a length of 2x4 and place on the inside of your newly installed lefthand support. That will make it so both sides of that portion of truss foot are now adequately supported. You don't even need to do it on the right side, just on that left side so the truss spline is pushing down on the truss in the middle between two supporting 2x4, rather than only to the left of the support like it is now. This may even be overkill, since that portion of wall is technically supported by both of those studs running all the way to the top, but if it were my home, I'd put a 2x4 there just to be sure.

@tay13666

10 ай бұрын

Good catch.

@Billybob-go8hn

10 ай бұрын

Yup 👍

@SaucyOperator

10 ай бұрын

Great correction.

@jpabmx

10 ай бұрын

Yeah you have some cantilever action going there. I'd take two seconds to add a jack stud at least on that one side.

@EzekielGage

10 ай бұрын

I was thinking the same thing in that they would have to add some Jack studs essentially now that they had to destroy the integrity of the wall a different way.

We all know that will never go anywhere, but if for any reason it doesn't pass inspection, then maybe consider just building another floor to ceiling 2x4 wall right up against it. That will give you a lot of insulation as well as some very deep window sills, which almost everyone loves for plants and pictures. It will cost around $100-$150 for studs, take maybe an hr-2, you'll lose 3 1/2" of floor space, but gain some peace of mind. Awesome video as always guys.

Plans didn't call for a 2x6 wall for strength and R-values ? Here in the North East all exterior walls call for 2'' x 6'' s for insulating factors .

I'm surprised the engineer didn't see that before the build! These things happen and to the wise man, no single person will see everything. It's a group working for the common cause that avoids problems!

@RES_Plumbing-Drain

10 ай бұрын

My thoughts exactly, he had to account for that. He was paid well for that.

@jwblount7802

10 ай бұрын

Thats because they are not engineers, they are artist.... I deal wilh plans drawn like this from engineers on a daily basis. They only know what they read. They have never had a hammer in their hand or sweat run down the crack of their ass a day in their life.

@evan-edstrom

10 ай бұрын

Yeah, it seems like the engineer and truss designer would have had to overlook this. Surprised whoever at BFS putting this truss package together wouldn't have considered this. Seems like common knowledge, scissor trusses must have full height gable walls to avoid a hinge point.

Paul mentions in the video that the gable end walls should have been balloon framed in the first place, and it is a given that platform framing of this configuration will severely hinge. But, with the windows taking up about 2/3 of the wall width, there still would not have been many studs to run full height. Fortunately, LVLs can take far greater loads than dimensional lumber, and they are located where the stresses are greatest. And, StudPack has pinned a note in the comments stating that the fix has the blessing of their structural engineer, who I assume is also calling for additional measures, such as horizontal metal strapping across the LVLs. In retrospect, I think a better approach from the beginning of the framing would have been to run a continuous beam from wall to wall, sized to resist wind loads, in lieu of the three window headers. The gable truss, which is essentially just an infill panel could still be installed the same way as the hinging would be eliminated.

Can we all appreciate the precision with which Paul operates that reciprocating saw? That's a guy who has 40 yrs of experience with a saw designed for demolition.

A few older buildings around here use wall to wall iron rod trusses. Easy to install, its just a long metal rod, threaded at both ends, held in place with interior washers (over sized and round) and nuts, and exterior washers and nuts. Typically the exterior washers are shaped like stars, rounds, shellfish or even a town seal. So, its an idea, just in case the front wall needs more support. Once the rods are painted black, they fade away in the space and some folks use them to mount lighting to.

@1packatak

10 ай бұрын

Used to see that a lot in Amish Country in PA.

Read a lot of the comments. Lots of downers. I’m a pencil pusher and these fellas have more construction talent in their pinky than I do. I tried making a deck and failed. I take it as educational videos to watch what happens next. After watching 6 month of videos, I think they will fix it and do a 120% stellar job like they always do. Keep up the work fellas.

When I first saw those two part end walls with massive windows and flat gable trusses I imagined this day would come. Glad to see you all caught it and were able to come up with some sort of a solution. Load transfer and linkage bracing aside, when padding out the upper half, maybe add a standard 2x4 to the side of each flat one creating L-braces along the whole way. Then further tie in the upper and lower halves of the wall with metal hurricane straps and braces.

You guys have probably thought about this, but consider having ethernet wire ran through out the house. These can be used for wireless access points, security cameras and other cool network based things. Also for Jordan, he may consider running some fiber in the house as well so he can dump footage from his computer to a NAS located in a rack at high speeds. I see these things often overlooked during construction since there are so many other pressing things to consider.

@jean-clauded5823

10 ай бұрын

Needs for fibre in such a small space are not that great anymore. The speeds you can get with copper wire, at 10GB and higher, are now faster in many cases then the computers connected to it can handle. (imho)

@terpfen

10 ай бұрын

Running fiber in the walls doesn't make sense for residential use. Cat6a is plenty and will be plenty for the foreseeable future. As long as they run ethernet in conduit, they can always run new cable in a few years if they decide they want to upgrade or replace.

@TheBrownSys

10 ай бұрын

Absolutely need ethernet runs to every conceivable location. In conduit for easy replacement. It's cheap and easy with exposed walls. Not so easy later. Currently doing the second floor runs on my 1980's 2 story with home run in basement. It's a lot of work and I'm definitely having to compromise on the locations I'm choosing to terminate. Fiber seems a bit much considering you can get 10Gbs out of Ethernet which is super fast and the cost to go up to even 10Gbs right now (and the near future) is prohibitively expensive when it comes to switching, routing, and NICs. Plus you are going to need hard drives that exceed current mainstream tech or a number of computers working simultaneously with some of the fastest consumer hard drives to push past 10Gbs

You can add ZIP to inside wall as well (under the drywall) to make it more stiff. It will become a torsion box.

@ThePmnorman

10 ай бұрын

This is the way. That’s what our structural spec’s on certain multifamily corridor walls.

@StudPack

10 ай бұрын

What about insulation?

@jerryf609

10 ай бұрын

​​@@StudPackyou put the insulation in before you install the interior zip. Regarding insulation consider 2 inches of closed cell foam. It adds some rigidity and is excellent air ans vapor seal as well. R7 per inch

@Faruk651

10 ай бұрын

No, do it outside and overlap all the seams of the first layer of zip sheathing.

A pocket door for the bathroom would give you a lot more space.

@matthewgriffiths527

10 ай бұрын

Who actually enjoys a pocket door though?

@Stashmo

10 ай бұрын

@@matthewgriffiths527 I find pocket doors to be a PITA!

@choimdachoim9491

10 ай бұрын

@Stashmo Me too, usually, but I installed one in my wife's bathroom and it opened up the wall that was behind the open door which gave me room to build a custom cabinet that holds all her towels, washclothes, soaps, various bottles of stuff, cleaning supplies and 40 rolls of toilet paper. That allowed me to remove the double-sink space-wasting vanity and replace it with a single-sink vanity with more counter-space for her odds and ends. I like this particular door because it has soft-close open and close. It was worth the extra effort, especially since she is so happy with the final result.

@wtfdoicare

10 ай бұрын

tons of people? they make a lot of sense in a tight bathroom not having to manage inswing. I'm around tons of 8 figure houses that have pocket doors, it's never a negative IMO.@@matthewgriffiths527

@beckycrump8831

10 ай бұрын

Yes, a pocket door, a sliding barn door type, or out swinging door. If you choose a pocket door, they have better handles than those little ones which are hard to grab with bigger fingers.

Great work! Thank you for showing us this!

I was so shocked to see how flexible that wall was when you took ur hands to push on it, then to see the change after installing those long studs, you guys are doing a great job! Keep up the awesome work, it’s so cool to see you guys building from the ground up!

You guys rock. Thank you for doing what you do

Paul, you mentioned padding the gable uprights out...what needs to be done is nail or screw a 2x4 to the side to create a stiff back, which I'm surprised code in that area doesn't require it, this will help straighten any bow out and provide a flatter plane for exterior finish

Paul, Thank you for spending the time to bring us along on your journey. Not only are the videos packed with good info, your personality/demeanor raises the bar for society and gives others a genuine example of a role model we all should aspire to emulate in our own lives. Keep up the Good work.

Add some rat ties, nailed to the bottom chord of several roof trusses, with connectors to those LVL posts. The ceiling diaphragm will help. Strap tie the top plates where you cut them.

@cynthiamahlin4815

10 ай бұрын

Both sides. It worked for me.

Rad is such a good asset to the team. Jordan helps finish the end product, and Paul stirs the drink, but Rad is the glue that helps keep the operation together as it moves. Great solution for what could have been a bad scenario.

@SaucyOperator

10 ай бұрын

Rad is monkey man. Willing to take calculated risks. Man I miss my days in the air feeling invincible. So glad he's a part of the team!

@choleaoum1383

10 ай бұрын

No one realizes they need a guy like rad until their gone.

Great. Thinking 12 steps ahead, building 8 steps ahead, revising on time. Your pride in building it right is the way it should be. Awesome. I never thought to stiffen up my like button with an LVL! Keep them coming guys.

Learning so much each time! Thanks

Awesome fix! I really love the bracing you are adding by connecting the bottom chords of the trusses to the wall.

what a great feeling as a father, knowing you taught your son so well, so well that you can take a break. Good job Dad. This has turned into one of my absolute favorite channels. thanks guys.

Always fantastic content!! Hoping I'm not the only one who sits thru all the ads on your videos!! I do so to show my appreciation for all the info you share with us and all the work that goes into making the videos. Also, because I want to see you guys put all kinds of fantastic finishes in😁 Keep up the great work!! Look forward to seeing you soon!!

Well done as usual Paul. Frame on!

Amazing work gents! Absolutely love all the content! Can't wait to see electrical rough in!

I'm see all kinds of electrical rough in. it would be cool if you did a program on that, and talk about your electrical decisions.

@StudPack

10 ай бұрын

We've got 2 videos queued up! It's why we didn't post for a week. Running wire baby!

Lvls are designed to carry horizontal loads. Your should have purchased LSLs for the vertical stiffback...I'm hoping you had an engineering judgment before hacking up those trusses. I do think you guys are doing a great job. This part of the job would make me call an engineer though. I've been a builder for 40 plus years and seen about everything.

@coolbugfacts1234

10 ай бұрын

It seems like the loading would still be in the correct orientation for LVLs though, since they're meant to resist the bending between the gable end and the wall

@ltdan8671

10 ай бұрын

Respectfully, I don't think this is correct. LVL has a higher modulus of elasticity. It's stiffer and will resist bending more than the LSL. This is probably better for this long span application with a thin beam. Maybe you meant PSL. I won't say 100% that I'm correct but I think so. I just did a quick search for mechanical properties of the two because this stuff interests me. Either way, the LVL is stronger than framing lumber.

Dad's new nickname is Paul the Saw, I guess. Y'know, I keep thinking that you ought to invest in a block and tackle that can be screwed into the frame on the outside of the gable ends. Then you can haul stuff up (like scaffold components, tools, studs, and sheets of drywall) and bring it in through the big window openings. You'd have to patch some mounting holes through the Zip before you put up the siding, but that's a small price to pay to make it easier to get heavy stuff to the second floor. You could leave one of the windows out until you get the drywall up there, but I see commercial buildings with windows taken out for that use all the time - it's WAY easier to crane or B&T stuff to an upper floor than hauling everything up through the stairs, where you might have tight turns at bottom and top. Have you tried hauling a 4x8 sheet up the garage stairs yet?

even just a small shelf along that top plate would make that wall a ton more rigid (and i think you mentioned you considered it). You can use it as a hidden LED lighting feature!! and it would make a huge improvement for a wall that will at some point be catching CAT 4 hurricane winds. A horizontal beam over the windows would make that much more resilient. Best of luck guys.

Great save guys! 😊 love the windows

Hello to my favorite cousin! I just found your Stud Pack channel and now I am totally hooked -- I am loving the fun of seeing you build this beautiful home for beloved Jordan! I’ll keep watching 🤩

Great workmanship!!

Man, y’all should’ve framed that rake wall like a rake wall should’ve been framed, balloon style. You’ve done a lot to help it, but that hinge point is always going to be there. Sure the four lvl studs helped, a lot, but I’d be concerned still

This is absolutely my favorite episode! Good luck on the build, (a fellow electrician) you guys rock 🪨

Love that you guys listen to the comments and go through fixing and pointing out sometimes those know it all commenters know something.. lol amazing job. Saw plumbing and electric done, can't wait for those vids

When we build clear story walls like yours we use Doug Fir super strong and if very tall we use 2x6 but always ballon construction. We also found out the hard way. We also prefer laminated Doug fir beams rather than glue lam beams.

I really like the addition of the framing in for the clerestory windows. Definitely helps add light while maintaining privacy. I’m with Paul, they need to be lined up with the room (or in this case a stair well) to provide that “Feng Shui” and make the space “feel right”. I’m glad you used that Zip board internally on the framing to add that extra moisture and air protection. I even liked Rad’s stretch tape demonstration. Great job guys! I love following your videos.

This whole video reminded me of issues i had with my house framing and remodel. Had to do exactly the same things as you guys, even the clearance holes to get the screw head past studs that were in the way. Unreal.

Always ready for a new episode! Keep up the hard work!

I get so tired of all these youtubers that cut out mistakes, and pretend like their shit doesn't stink. I prefer to watch real humans so i can learn. Thanks for bein real dudes.

Fantastic guy’s!

Very nice !! Shouldn't there be horizontal bracing between each roof truss? Or a strong-back? Also, maybe a couple of jack studs to hold up the small double plate segments... some of them have only one stud in the middle now, I don' think that's "code".

Great to see another video, loving seeing the journey that your on and enjoying all the content. Would you ever consider doing a few livestreams? Also when you build the house would you consider setting up a camera and doing a time-lapse from start to finish would be amazing to see if from demo to finish the in ones video. Not sure if its possible since you said your cameras were over heating and guessing would have to be hard wired for it to be a time-lapse for that length of time but I'd happily watch you guys for hours. Have been watching since June 22 and not missed a video since and baring anything happening don't intend to miss a video coming! Keep up the great work.

What I like is that you made it stronger than it was before anybody can see that. That’s the only way to do in construction.. To God Be The Glory Always .Can I hear Amen ..

I don't know where you guys get your music from but it is always cool to hear! Really like these small but important details. Love Stud Pac!

Hey guys love the build and im glad you caught the mistake. Im not sure if you just haven’t done it yet but im assuming you’ll install rafter tie plates etc. Also are you going to connect each truss with a strongback or something? Not sure if you talked to engineer but they can easily give you alternatives to make sure the weight is distributed correctly. You may even need to use steel. Now that you’ve cut the plate you at least need some Jack studs. Good luck. On another note we all know everything you guys do is usually above and beyond and even the most experienced miss things from time to time. Love the build

Please consider using Simpson Strong-Tie Strong-Drive SDWS 3, 3.5, and 4 inch for those longer connections. I do not recall seeing the type of screw you are using, but please check these out. They are the approved fastener, when not nailing with a Framing Nail. Also, you know this, but adding that extra Zip to the inside of the Window and Door openings is going to require a longer screw to secure the window, to the proper depth. Regarding the Zip Sheathing, to act as a shear wall, I believe the nailing schedule calls for 3 inch spacing on the edge and 6 inch spacing in the field. Love all your work and only want the best for you guys.

Really enjoying this build guys!

Smart fix, great idea, can’t believe how much it helped

Super video. One idea....Why not Skip the standard swing door on the bathroom. Pocket doors are super. That can give you more room. For the vanity size. More countertop space.

Wrapping the window and door bucks with zip is a great idea for the water proofing aspect but a terrible idea on structural. Yes you made it more water resistant, but at the cost of a weaker connection for the windows. Most flange mount windows barely get any bite to the 2x's when you nail them in anyways. Now you will be nailing into end/side grain if osb/zip. Any time I've done that when an opening was framed too big it has caused problems on install of the windows. If we have over sized openings we always try yo use dimensional lumber not ply or osb. Two problems you are going to have. If you actually hit the center of the osb when nailing the windows in, osb is not designed to be nailed that way and you have a weak connection that will fail, nails will work themselves out. Other problem would be if you hit right between the osb and the stud that's also a very poor connection. Last if you happen to hit the stud it likely only going to be just barely so again a very poor connection. Same to worse if you hit the edge of the osb. Screws are probably not going to make much if any difference as you just don't have solid wood to connect to. I would recommend removing all the zip an adding solid lumber 1 inch or bigger which could be very difficult as you only have so much room in the buck to fit your windows properly. You are probably going to have to remove Jack's and other studs of the buck and pad out between the, example, jack and king stud to get your proper buck size. If you want the bucks to be water resistant I'd recommend a liquid flash like Prosoco fast flash or a peel and stick product. Ps the door bucks may be OK as you through nail or screw through the frame into the buck. Just use a long enough fastener to get an inch or more into the 2x / stud.

Great job on the windows and framing fix. Good concept and skillful implementation.

Paul you are quite skillful cutting with that saw. It was nice to watch the way you can paint with a SawZAll!

Indeed, we had a couple of really pleasant days even 250 miles-ish north of you, where it only got into the upper '90's. Folks that don't think that is pleasant have spent weeks on end north of 105. I am loving this series guys! Also, you have demonstrated time and again that it is better to have scaffolding and not need it than the alternative. Did I mention that I am loving this series? Why yes, yes I did.

*** Since the back deck is going to give support, how about building a type of roof/awning over the front garage door.. It'll help with keeping rain out and shade. You can build it a couple feet up and a couple feet below where the trusses meet the wall framing.. span the whole length of the garage. Or you can get creative and make it look like a faux balcony like in NY. that would look stylish. But just saying, it would brace it on the inside and on the outside.

I still have concern about the ability of that wall to withstand a real wind-load. Youi might want to consider putting an LVL, with the wide dimension on its side, across from one side-wall header plate to the other, and then use structural screws to attach that to the front wall structure. That would help perhaps even more that the vertical LVL 'studs' that you put in place. Either that, or replacing the LVL studs with steel that won't flex as much. A 50mph wind load is about 10 pounds per square foot. So think not about how much pressure you can exert with your hands and your maybe 200lb body, but the 10 pounds times the square foot surface area of that wall. You are well over 100 square feet of surface area, so 1000 lbs of force....

@sedace6734

10 ай бұрын

While it's probably not the intention, this video makes the engineering appear questionable, I'm picturing a regular dad doing the slap and saying "That's not going anywhere" method of securing things. It's clear this team has much more experience and skills than that so I'm trusting they are leaving out details for sake of time and entertainment and have designed this building to meet their budget and safety goals and meet/exceed local building codes. All that said, I still am curious how much wind pressure / force this building is engineered to sustain and if there are any other small but meaningful enhancements they could make (whether or not they choose to do so) that would be worth considering. Maybe my curiosity is beyond the scope of this content which is fine. I really enjoy watching and none of what I state here is a complaint, keep up the great work gang.

Here is my 2 cents. What about connecting the cut top plates to the new LBL's with some angle brackets or something? When Paul started shaking the wall, my draw dropped to the ground. I was expecting Jordan to start crying, seeing that. Love ya guys! Go Studpack!

@Mr572u

10 ай бұрын

I like your idea. Cut some angle iron and bolt it together.

Yes!!! Keep up the good work, Gents!! 💪🏻 🇺🇸

Nice work Boys!!

I like the small windows! Just make sure that they have as narrow windowsills as possible. Otherwise, that fly that died last fall, will stay on it forever! And you will see it every time you are using the stairs.

@jefftown604

10 ай бұрын

Ever heard of a vacuum and ladder

@ManabiLT

10 ай бұрын

One of those bendable microfiber dusters on a long pole will clean it off.

@pcatful

10 ай бұрын

The sills are up high so you won't see it. No problem.

@denisegaylord382

10 ай бұрын

My concern is having to wash them. I am chicken about those types of highwire acrobatics to clean the glass. I probably would have put in 2 sun tunnels from the roof into the ceiling of the stairwell and called it a day.

@ManabiLT

10 ай бұрын

​@@denisegaylord382 Getting on the roof to clean the sun tunnel covers wouldn't be much fun, either.

Cool! Y'all be safe. I'm loving the build!

Paul's got some crazy skill with that recip!

Nice shear wall, I had to do something similar to install 3 Gluelams for a cathedral ceiling. I also had to use 5/8" CDX outside & 5/8" drywall inside. The longest stud pack to support the tallest Gluelam was 17 1/2'. Gluing your vertically placed drywall across your top plate on both gable walls with no seams closer than 4' will improve the stability as well. I placed 5/8"x4'x12' drywall vertically, glued & double screwed to have a 6' overlap across the top plate. BTW you can get special order lumber that is quite long. I used 26' long 2"x8" roof rafters, 16" OC for my front rake of 5"-12" slope. I used 1 solid 24' long 2"x12 ridge on top of the top Gluelam. Code required 7# dead load so I made it 56#, 8x overkill. Cant strips for the other 2 Gluelams were cut from an extra 26' long 2"x8".

As always, great video!

Great solution

excellent technique 🔥🔥

JUST WANT TO SAY YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST. I LOVE YOUR PLATFORM BECAUSE YOU GUYS GET RIGHT TOO IT. NO PLAYING AROUND NO CORNY JOKES. YOU ALWAYS GET RIGHT TO THE ACTION AND I LEARN SO MUCH FROM YOU GUYS.

Great video as always! I love that you guys keep saying you’re going to add or do things “for the drywallers” like y’all aren’t going to be doing the drywall too!

Paul I saw you bang your head on that scaffolding! I highly recommend you guys pick up some ergodyne skullerz, it’s like having a hard hat inside your regular cap. Has come in handy at work for me. Great job as always and stay safe

@cantgetright742

10 ай бұрын

We call em bump caps. I recommended that before. Turn your regular hat into a hard hat. They work pretty well

Don't you need vertical and horizontal continous framing with metal brackets to ensure structural integrity especially in hurricane zones. There is no horizontal bracing on the trusses from the side walls. This would also apply in earthquake areas.

@terpfen

10 ай бұрын

They've said in a previous video that they are more than 100 miles from the coastline so their code doesn't require specific hurricane mitigation, but they'll likely add it anyway.

Make sure them windows are super clean cause that will be the last time they are...lol jkjk good job men!!! I'm loving the build!!!

Another Stud Pack video - our week is complete! Let’s go!

@aweisen1

10 ай бұрын

Was gunna say the same thing. Love these guys!

Appreciate you guys! Addicted to watching the evolution of the garage, your individual personalities and discovered lessons. Paul is such a genuine personality/father and you get the love Paul has for dad. Rad is a cool guy not afraid to work his ass off, same as Paul and Jordan. Jordan the rock!

@lyndawilliamson8543

10 ай бұрын

So right!!!!

I like the fix for the gable wall, but if it were me, I would add and an lvl horizontally sideways creating a shelf or wide decorative ledge at the top plates, or maybe a flinch-beam or wide angle iron. This would take even more flex out of the wall and could be drywalled or finished after and add lighting under and/or above it for a cool effect.

Good owning up to it and fixing it right! I know lots of contractors that would let it go because "sheetrock will stiffen that up "!!

Okay. That made up for some of the balloon framing that should’ve been done. But, those outer walls perpendicular to the roof framing still have a lot of deflection. If I were inspecting, I would still ask for bracing on these gable ends. The code says to apply 16PSF on those walls. Half of that does to the floor diaphragm. Half to the roof sheathing, which looks a bit weak. Moreover, the plate chord was cut and you’re now using the sheathing to transfer that load. The dynamics is that the load is now using those 2ft sections as the shears walls all the way to the floor. This causes a building irregularity. Engineering should look at this a step closer for you guys.

@stevebengel1346

10 ай бұрын

👍

@smashdaworld5916

10 ай бұрын

I suggested to trey the wall back into the ceiling, sure you lose some height. Stronger more appealing and easier

@enhder13

10 ай бұрын

@@smashdaworld5916 totally agree with this method. I don’t think I would agree with the truss engineer without adding strap on those top plates that were cut. That top plate and bottom chord drag a ton of lateral loads. Transferring that chord to the sheathing is a really bad idea and bad engineering practice. Just add some Simpson straps on those chords.

@mcgeorgerl

10 ай бұрын

I guess what I'm not understanding here is what the wind load on those broad surfaces is going to do. Since the exterior siding isn't going to add anything to the rigidity nor will the drywall skin on the interior, that flexibility they still see after adding their "improvement" will wreak havoc with the finished drywall with cracking at the window rough openings, seams and nail pops. Around here, I don't think our codes/inspectors would okay an exterior feature (Deck porch and/or canopy) to solve the problem either, like what the mentioned for the rear wall.

@enhder13

10 ай бұрын

@@mcgeorgerl they’re talking to their engineer about solving that problem. I think they l’ve realized that some mistakes were made and are in the works for coming up with a solution. Just take it as a cool tool to have in your pocket. If I was pushing numbers, I would say. Block and Strap, strap, strap. And do some modifications to the side wall ceilings. And move on. Depending on the numbers, maybe some vertical strapping (holdowns).

Great fix

If the original design was engineered then you need to go back to the engineer on the changes.

It would be cool I yall did three more windows! 2 under the first two from left to right and 1 under the first window on the second row.. making a triangle with the windows

Absolutely love this series, if I may make a suggestion for editing, lowering the volume when the saw is running, would make the video more pleasurable for me at least.smile😊

great solution

Is there a reason that you didn't cut a couple of more platform planks for working in the stairwell? With one or two more, you could stand on one while repositioning the other. You could always stack one on top of the other or maybe nail a small rope grab handle on the bottom?

Something I have been doing on my farm rebuilding a few things in out building where have concrete flooring and partial block wall and rest stud framing. All door opening rough including garage door trim I have been using PVC board on the bottom edge of any vertical wood resting on concrete

This will never pass framing inspection. The engineer needs to come out and give you a fix the wall. Do it now to avoid further delays

@barryomahony4983

10 ай бұрын

Anything built to a drawing with an engineer's stamp on it will pass inspection.

I can’t wait to see Matt, calling out all the zip detail! 😊

Paul all that is really important is to brace your trusses with a 2x4 at approx 45 degees ,from the gable end truss up to about the 3 or 4th truss in . Then with a 2x4 on the bottom cord fasten it to your trusses. Hope that helps.

@barryomahony4983

10 ай бұрын

Can't do that with a cathedral ceiling.

Hello Paul/Jordan/Rad , I could always bring another truss if it wouldn’t have worked. Looking good it coming along .

RAD not Brad.. hehehe 😁 I love the stair windows, but Jordan don’t hate me… I think those windows maybe could have been vertical rectangles (for modern look) , UNLESS you thought about it, and too much window is too hot for the stairs. The stud repair stressed me out so much! Its times like those when I run into mistakes that make feel so defeated, thinking even “fixing” it would be a bad call. So thank you, for showing up how bad it was and how you addressed it, even the energy of y’all towards the mess. It put me at ease , no matter what my project is that everything will be okay, there is always a way to fix it! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼Next time I will channel that confidence and focus !

Well done gentlemen

First video where I watched every second! Thank you for this video. I am building a pool house and ran into the same issue with the truss on the gable end. I have an LVL left over from my last project. I'm going to give this a go. I hope this solve my similar issue.

Hmmm I was always taught 1 faster per 2 inches when installing 2x4s , 2x6, etc... So when you framed that window opening and used 2x6 and only put 2 nails on each side... Pretty sure an inspecter can fail you, but at the end of the day rules vary depending on where you live so as long as you guys do what's code in your area :)

Nice fix to the wall Paul. Also like the windows in the stair well. Keep up the great work guys.

Looks like a great fix to me. Great job. And impressive sawzall skills

When you changed the truss design to scissors you lost your ceiling diaphragm. That was when you needed to get your design engineer’s approval/redesign. Your building inspector will say the same. Your solution is not likely to be what your engineer is going to require. Keep on smiling!

@danhutchinson4346

10 ай бұрын

Yep, you are 100% correct. They need to get the engineer out there now for a correct repair

@salty_flightdeck_cpo

10 ай бұрын

💯

Great transparency Studs, y'all are bosses! Paul is a beast for his age! Git R Did Pack! Great video!