Love the simplicity of these old engines. a memory lane job for me, in the 70's I had a Cortina that broke a piston ring on a Saturday morning, head off, engine lifted out by hand and stripped by tea-time. Bought all the parts (everyone stocked Ford parts back then) on the following Sunday morning, rebuilt the engine and drove it to work on the Monday. it didn't actually get blueprinted but was fine. I also fitted some piston rings and bearing shells on a mates car that wasn't very old. I fitted std big end and didn't check what came out of the factory. A flashing oil pressure lamp on tick over was the light bulb moment to discover the engine was +010' on the big ends ex-factory. Here I am 50 years years later, never having forgotten those early years life lessons. Great that there is still a market for rebuilding these. Thanks for the videos.

64 years old and I finally get an easy to understand explanation of degreeing the cam(s). Thank you sir.

Best engineering shop I’ve ever seen Loving the Cosworth stuff especially Got a brilliant team working there Lee Your facial expressions on some of the thumbnails really cheer me up when I’m down Great Channel with fantastic content Thank you 😊

This Heath Robinson guy is a god dammed genius.

Just a pleasure to listen to someone that's confident in their abilities.

Really good to see the proper way to find TDC, glad to see it

I'll just echo what everyone else is saying.. a piston stopper is the most accurate way to find TDC.

Thanks Barum for taking the time out of your busy schedule to bring us another interesting and worthwhile video from your Workshop, i understood everything you said and described. Cheers.

Love your work and explanations. A lot of Australian performance engine builders have a designated engine room . Assembly only . No machines at all in these rooms. Have you considered that option Regards

Nice video Lee, thanks. I would like to see the vernier cam pulleys being adjusted one day please where you show us taking the bolts out and moving the vernier pulley to the right point and then bolting it back up to lock it in the right spot, so we can see the mechanism and how the cam moves without moving the outer part of the pulley with the belt on. Thanks very much I enjoy all your videos Lee.

You should always helicoil the tensioner stud on a cosy rebuild they are renowned for failing

Mechanical Therapy. I feel much better now, thank you.

Nice to see attention to detail, and a firm that takes pride in what they do,great stuff,love it 👍

The stud looks like the old trick when you are stuck without the right tap so you grind a flat on a spare bolt and use it to try and clean the threads but it is only a get out s- - - move and repaired ASAP and you dont even use the ground down bolt.

Thank​ much​ for​ all​ knowledge.​ I'm​ not​ a​ mechanic.​ But​ i​ need​ to​ learn​ how​ to​ do​ it.​ Sorry if​ i​'m incorrect, because my​ english​ language​ not​ good.🙏🤟💕💕👍👍👍

Very informative video as always and the way you explain it in simple English is brilliant not double dutch . Keep them coming mate 👍

Thanks for showing the pulley set up 👍

Excellent video Lee thanking you for sharing sir.

Great content as always!

That was fascinating, cheers!

Finding true TDC is done more accurately by using a piston stop and a crank degree wheel rather than a dial indicator. The piston stop eliminates the "dead spot" and provides the exact location of TDC instead of a location somewhere in the "twilight zone"!

Great informative video, always wondered how and seemed to complicated in the past so just set my newman cams in a zetec to standard 👍

depending on rod offset ,your going have the Piston dwell at TDC for a few degrees, Timing belts stretch, after break in after 25 miles, if you messed up a new belt should installed ( I used to work on fiat twin cam engines), Ive checked the timing marks on cam pulleys and sometimes after break in they are off a hair, a timing light is your best friend

Thanks again Lee. We do it a bit differently yet this is a sound mathematical practice of setting cam timing.

Nice video dad 👍🏻

Hey mate.....go out and have a Deluxe weekend! Be good Lee.

Intresting very good content

Nice, so many folks don't take dwell into account 👍

Seen the tensioner bolt pull out on Land Rover 300tdi on assembly as well.

disregard this if done already,but after seeing a recent video by dustin williams in the USA his skyline r32 with a built rb26 (taken out to 2.8) dyno tuning he had vernier bolts come loose and it bent alot of valves ,so when set up to spec and all bolts are tight, 1 at a time remove a bolt clean the threads apply loctite & torque to spec for peace of mind,not having a dig at all your work is excellent mate, just something I see recently and got me to re-do mine before we run it up

thanks for the info on the engines and thank you for the video and a big thanks for not doing a 1st april trick

Perfect boss man

Thank god u found that stud problem and it did not go out the door and fail.

the flat on the stud is to cut a thread DIY tap basically but it is a bodge and weakens fixing in the hole significantly, seen them when threading blind holes in aluminium, weld the hole up drill a new hole screw this in and it makes a fixing but isn't more than a bush fix,

Yea that was well explained 🙂

Hehe, asked you for advice on repairing the stripped stud thread few vids back - helicoil or threadsert

Hi Lee, am I right in thinking that they are standard cams, if so are the adjustable pulleys to get the timing right due to block and head skimming/refacing.

Ineffective crank angle, it's always hard to explain 😀🖖

You clearly like Helicoil. Any thoughts to share on Timesert?

I wish I had there knowledge

The original stud might have stretched so they’ve ground one side flat and sent it in hoping to rethread it 🤦‍♂️

Fantastic video. Was a mechanic for 35 years but never used a degree wheel before. How did you get a customer from the USA? If the customer says ok can you tell the story? I live in Florida and I don't think I would send an engine to the UK to be rebuilt. Thanks

I do the same as Lee .Using a DTI to measure an accurate equal amount BTDC and ATDC will still give you the exact zero TDC. After all the camshafts exact MOP can only be done with a DTI.

How much difference does half a degree make in regard to cam timing?

Almost sounds like you know what your doing. Do you ever do Stag V 8 engines?

How about a video on How you paint the blocks or heads...I know how I painted my 36 block and heads...just interested in how professionals are doing it...cheers

made perfect sense to me. 😅

😎👌

Used to tap the engine with a soft hammer to get TDC better, no idea if it made any difference, take up all of those sticky small tolerances. Striction etc..

@johnrussell5245

2 жыл бұрын

As long as you measure with the dial gauge by always rotating the crank in the direction it operates you'll take up any slack/tolerances.

Helicoil ? Not a 'time-sert' ? For what reason did you chose the former rather than the later ?

Stud on the tensioner? seen it more than once, we even had some Cossie specialist with his personal car on the dyno, and his car done that on the run, while he was telling us about that issue of Cossie engines... "I always time-sert them, but I didn't do it on my own car"

I live in Barnstaple Can I bring my Audi A4 2003 turbo to be rebuilt with you please. Very very good video.

Those con rods looked as if they'd been sitting in water.

What about the cam followers being empty of oil don’t you have to take this into account as they will never empty completely and the lifters are dry arnt they or are they the bucket type with a shim on top???

00:00:50 - AH C-engine! Now we're talking... 🙂

It's a good job someone knows what they're doing!! ..That's a bit of a brain melter for me. 😄

Once the verniers have been set, I take it that you can change the cam belt by using the timing marks on the engine alone? There should not be a need to adjust the pulleys again? Tryed to follow you guidance ,but got lost when you moved to the cam followers, still a brilliant channel👍

@chrisbuchan6404

2 жыл бұрын

Setting the actual max lift in the cam has no effect on the actual timing marks, it will always use the std manufacturers marks for replacement belt

take a look at salvage rebuilds latest video. a noisy BMW engine. you might be able to help.

I'll fair bet someone crossthreaded the stud, then flattening one side (they used to do this to help cut the thread back) hoped this would lock it back in again...?

great engineering video but but lost me with so many degrees maybe beer issue love the video older engines were fixable but modern piston development OMG why wife has vauxhall grandland 1.2 turbo 138 BHP if that overheats new engine my first fiesta had around 50 BHP and I keep asking Vauxhall do you have any issues with these 3x cyl engines so much power from them

@strangelove9608

2 жыл бұрын

Try a Toyota GR Yaris , 3 cylinder turbo 1600, bout 250 hp , it's mental 8)

Heath- Robinson.

Don't mean to cause alarm. Double check your numbers. I could've swore there was a miscalc at 8:50-8:52 ish

Conrods do tend to be the weakest link, going east or west through the block at Mini times.

3:28 flat on the thread of the stud is to clean out the thread, likely it was pulled and with no hélicoïdal kit around that was the best they could do - pre sales

@atwaass

2 жыл бұрын

your right there. ive done it many times on less important stuff, especially when a bell housng bolt pulls the threads out.

@Jim_M_75

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, old way to bodge a bolt and thread. Can also bray a cut in with a chisel, not a good idea with a tensioner stud mind haha.

Cosworth ?? ( 500bhp..)

terrible way to set TDC - I build drag bike engines , and use a positive stop in the plug thread to stop the engine just before TDC , and set the pointer on my steel 14" degree wheel right in the middle of the 2 positions the crank stops at - far more accurate

@an04ker

2 жыл бұрын

Good for you

When you say bit and pieces you are referring to parts and components,bit and pieces are what you order in you local pub

Get the helicoil coil set out. Ally. Nightmare.

Silly question but why do people get all enthusiastic about cosworth engines ? They have a critical design flaw that you have to fix by default, they don’t make insane amounts of power … what am I missing ?

@mcplutt

2 жыл бұрын

I like the Audi 5-cyl better :-)

Lee taking a lot of stick for not using a piston stop in the comments, the way he did it was within a fanny hair at the most. For those who don't know what people are talking about good link here of a Barra getting timed up over on Al's channel. kzread.info/dash/bejne/npWgw7aQepfTdNI.html (jump to 16:50 ish) Hope you don't mind me linking in The Skid Factory Lee.

We never see the happy customer drive in to say he done more then 100 miles with no problem gotta fell sorry for the people spending there money and getting a ticking time bomb to show for it 😂

Wtf is wrong with people bodging these lumps I’ll never know, it’s not saving time or money and potentially scraping a block crazy!

I’m sure you’ll just love ❤️ to hear all the morons telling you there’s a much more accurate way to do it 🙄🙄🙄🙄😂😂😂😂! Like they have really done it themselves 🙄🙄🙄🙄! I wouldn’t doubt that the experts are also the guys who would put a stud in like that 😳😳😳😳🤬🤬🤬🤬! It’s (Rube Goldberg) not Heath Robinson) 😜😜😜😜! One of my bosses customers years ago installed connecting rods in a 396BBC that had slight pitting 😳😳😳😳, my boss told him not to & that we had a slightly used aftermarket set he could come get from another engine we put a larger stroke crank in. He said it’s not going to make any difference but thanks anyway 🤣🤣🤣🤣! Well guess who was at the shop the morning after his first trip to the drag strip, looking for a block 🙄🙄🙄🙄! It used to be a numbers matching 396SS Chevelle! Not anymore 🙄🙄🙄🙄!