I found this super helpful. I redid my timing belt was positive it was right and put it back together and tada it was off. Thanks for the tip on adjusting the distributor without having to pull the belt back off. I was livid.

@EXOVCDS

6 жыл бұрын

Happy to hear that my video was of help... thank you for watching!

thomas exovcds thank you man its my first time changing a distributor and I'm confident that I'll do a great job tomorrow...

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

+jose Contreras Let me know how it goes... thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!

@josecontreras589

9 жыл бұрын

+Thomas EXOVCDS thank again for your help the video was great I got the car running by following your instructions...

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

jose Contreras Thanks for the update!

I am always purplexed until watching your videos. Thank you

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

Sometimes, my talking / quick movements add to the perplexedness! =)

Excellent vid Thomas lots of great tips -Thanks

@EXOVCDS

10 жыл бұрын

Thanks Steve... this was made for a viewer who had a no start, but he solved it before I had a chance to upload.

Hugely helpful video! Thanks!

Wow!! Dude. That is an awesome video. Thank you so much.

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching!

Hi Thomas, Good info. I have the ABA engine , a 1995 installed in my 1982 Vanagon Westfalia now for 18 years. Originally I used Digifant 2 , then in 2003 I changed it to Motronic. It ran faithfully until 5 years ago, was losing power , wouldn't go more than 50 MPH. I ran out of time and money and parked it. Even though it lacked power, it always started right up . Last year I borrowed a VCDS controller connected it to my computers with software installed. Showed It had several fault codes. Cleared all that mattered ( No EGR installed). The system is a 95 Motronic. I started it up again this spring , it was running about 30 seconds, then quit. That was 3 months ago. It just won't start. I tried a different coil and I;ll try a differnt one also. I replaced the distributor last year , as it was one of the fault codes I cleared. VCDS shows 240 RPM while cranking, and timing 6 degrees BTDC. When not cranking the BTDC is 72 degrees. I have no spark. I can smell fuel. Thanks for your advice.

@EXOVCDS

6 жыл бұрын

Robert K Loss of power can be due to broken crank sprocket key. The sprocket will move on the crankshaft causing timing to shift. If the crank bolt shows signs of rust under the head bolt, the bolt could be loose. Smell of fuel could be because the crank / cam timing is too far out. Set the engine to TDC (camshaft sprocket markings) and check if the TDC mark at the flywheel is at TDC... If not, then the sprocket has shifted. If TDC is ok, then you might actually have a spark issue.

thanks for all the info im working on a 97 golf and not familiar with them hope i can finish it

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

Silver Hernandez No start or other problem?

Great video! I verified the timing marks on my wife's 99 Cabrio as it recently developed a running condition. In 100ºF weather it started to get up in temperature and experience severe loss of power. It would rev to 3500 rpm but almost as if there was no gas. Looking at the data while driving on a cheap Actron scanner, I noticed that there were two temperature outputs and the difference between the two while running on the highway was significant. On the Highway, the high reading oscillated between 210 - 220ºF while the low was between 160 - 170ºF. The transmission shift points were also getting out of whack -- don't know if they were compensating for the loss of power. What struck my eye was that while on the highway at 65mph at approx. 3000 rpm, the ignition timing was only 16º. I tried giving it more rpm and at most would go to 19º but then come down. As far as changing parts, I will start with changing the fuel filter since I don't recall when I changed it for her. Anything I should look into? check fuel pressure, fuel pump resistance, fuel pressure regulator? Thanks in advance Nacho

@EXOVCDS

6 жыл бұрын

I'm still at work... but will get back to you once I am at home later tonight.

@EXOVCDS

6 жыл бұрын

I can only think of 2 temperature readings for that vehicle... engine coolant & intake air temperature. Camshaft position sensor faults can cause power loss issues. The sensor is inside of the distributor. A faulty sensor usually will set a G40 Cam sensor fault code. If the timing isn't changing, that might be the reason. Fuel filter is always a good place to start.... many have never been changed.

I really liked the technical aspect of how it worked, 1-4 up2-3 down. And why cam and crank are lined up with marks while dist/oil shaft can float and be fixed so to speak by moving dist and rotor to point at 1. Thanks

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

Happy to hear you were able to make sense of the video... I ramble too much sometimes, that is why in most of my videos I do not talk. I answer a lot of questions however... to make up for that!

another great one for MK3/4 heads from a real Pro.

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

shivarebirth420 shivarebirth420 You are too kind!

Little late Thomas lol...just kidding. Lots of great info.more to put in my vw notes.:) I still remember my first timing belt and yes it was my 86 jetta with that stupid mark that had to be lined up with crank pulley..couldn't figured out why it didn't start till an old timer told me about that mark..

Great video! I’m having some problems with my vw, I had it running perfect but now it’s misfiring under load. It seems to idle ok, itll rev up in park, but as soon as I try to drive it, it is very under power blinking the check engine light and giving me tons of misfire codes. I’m having a hard time figuring out what’s going on with it. Here’s what I’ve done so far: Distributor (new Duralast brand) (Due to camshaft position sensor failing, ran perfect for about a week, then had one misfire in cylinder 3 at 4k rpm) Next: Spark plugs (Tried ac Delco, switched to ngk) Ignition coil (tried a new coil and a junk yard one) New spark plug wires (tried 2 different brands) Junk yard bosch distributor (currently in the car now) Timing is perfect, distributor alignment good, fuel injectors are working, maf sensor reads good, stft is in range. Can’t find any vacuum leaks. The car is very underpowered! Misfires will not go away, I cannot track down why. Any help would be grateful! Thank you!

@EXOVCDS

2 жыл бұрын

Crank gear could be loose / moving... causing retarded cam / crank timing.

Thanks!

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the videos. The two that I've watched have been very helpful. If you're not an automotive instructor, you should be.

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

LOL... I don't have the skills / brains to be an instructor (I'm actually always waiting for people to call me out / correct me on what I said in a video) but thank you and thank you for watching!

Thank you very much..

@EXOVCDS

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching!

i like all you videos, they are very insightful. i have a mk3 jetta with an AFV, 1.8i engine that just runs for about 2 seconds and then dies. we checked for spark, fuel and everything else i just cant find the problem. i must mention that it had a factory alarm removed from it. so please shed a little light as to what may be wrong

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

We don't have the AFV engine (code) in Canada... so I'm not sure how similar they are to what we have. A few weeks ago I solved a start & stall issue on a Eurovan, by replacing the ECM. If you have already checked everything... maybe a different ECM will solve things for you as well. Post a video on your channel so that I can see how it sounds when you start the engine.

Great video. Just ran into an issue with my 97 jetta 2.0 - The car died while driving and we can't get it to start. The clamp that was holding the distributor cap in place at the base (on top of the oil pump I believe) loosened up enough that the whole cap and plug wire assembly could spin basically. Nothing else was disturbed, the rotor arm doesn't rotate by hand and seems to be pointed to where the cables want the cap to be. The rest of my timing should be ok, correct? I just need to align the little mark on the rim to the middle of the rotor as it sits? (and replace the rotor, cap, and wires because woah they are in bad shape)

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

+Robert Batson The crankshaft & camshaft need to also be at TDC when the distributor rotor is pointing at the TDC notch / mark... but yes, that's all you need. Make sure that the wires go back in the same place. 1 3 4 2 starting at the 12 o'clock position, going clockwise and spark plugs 1 2 3 4 starting at the timing belt end.

So it's like advance or returd the distributor once you break it the clips lose fot movement by hand turning to TDC thanks I love your channel

@EXOVCDS

Жыл бұрын

Yes, you can move the distributor to align the rotor with TDC... as opposed to resetting the intermediate shaft gear at the timing belt end. You should NOT have to move the distributor if the belt was not changed. If all of a sudden you are now having G40 fault codes, it is quite likely a problem with the hall sensor in the distributor. If however, the timing belt was recently replaced, then distributor timing was not done correctly at that time. The more info I have, the better I can help.

@masonpugh3637

Жыл бұрын

You have help great deal Thoma 👍

Quick question, camshaft position sensor would be the hall sender on these engines correct? I’m throwing a code, just did a full belt and water pump job with a full tune up, cars running slow she’s got no Getty up so to speak, Time is correct, Cps I received Is for a later model engine, and I’m finding nothing on cps for this model

@EXOVCDS

2 жыл бұрын

Cam codes after timing belt replacement means that distributor alignment is not correct with crank position.

Hopefully you will be able to see this. So I just wanted some clarification - if the timing belt is off and the cam sprocket rotates, does everything need to be aligned to TDC before the belt goes back on, or can I adjust it with the belt on like in the video?

@EXOVCDS

5 жыл бұрын

If the crank is still at TDC, then all you need to do is turn the cam back to TDC. If you took the timing belt off with NOTHING at TDC, then you have to rotate the cam & the crank.

@jonathanemmons9560

5 жыл бұрын

Thomas EXOVCDS it worked! That was my first time doing anything with the timing on a car. The hardest part, honestly, was getting the rotor on the distributor to line up lol. Thank you very much!

@EXOVCDS

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the update!

Any tips to free/move the distributor from side to side to make slight adjustment if distributor seems stuck? Distributor lock bolt, lock spacer and pins are removed but I can't get it to budge.

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

Jay T I use 2 pry-bars to lever against the base of the distributor... I rock the distributor side to side with an upward motion.

@fam9242

7 жыл бұрын

Thomas EXOVCDS Cool, I'll give that a try. Btw, on an automatic transmission, I'm I looking at the elongated window or the circle when checking to see if the notch is half hidden at the bottom edge?

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

Jay T The long window: newbeetle.org/forums/attachments/2-0-liter-gas/64119d1262718288-timing-marks-please-help-automatictrans.jpg

Dude u saved my wallet 💋

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for watching!

Hello i have a 97 2.0 with an issue, just replaced timing belt water pump, got everything tdc and aligned with the marks, but i try to start and it acts like i have no compression. I have researched for hours and so far you are the only sane person ive come across! Plz help!

@EXOVCDS

6 жыл бұрын

Post a video on your channel so I can see & hear what the engine does. Set to TDC and show me the alignment marks (camshaft, crankshaft & distributor rotor).

@stroudrollyat3708

6 жыл бұрын

Yessir thank you

@stroudrollyat3708

6 жыл бұрын

Also I forgot to mention I am getting no compression at all when I crank the motor and it was in time and running fine before I replaced the timing belt because of a leaking water pump. I am going to continue a tear down and check the head but I'm fairly certain nothing in it is bent or broken

Not sure if you still keep track of the page, but I’m working on a 1999 mk3 Jetta that cranks but doesn’t start. Change plugs, wires, ignition coil, and battery. Still nothing. Was wondering what else might be an issue causing the crank but no start.

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

How are you checking for spark & fuel? Any fault codes? Is the timing belt ok / cam & crank timing? Fuel sample?

Nice video. So I have everything aligned and I still get the p0341 code could it be that the timing is still off or the actual sensor is messing up?

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

Daniel Madrigal Yes, either the timing is still off (initial alignment of crank vs distributor) or the hall sensor in the distributor is no good... can you send me a picture of the crank & distributor alignment that you have at #1 TDC?

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

Daniel Madrigal Use a long pry bar and place it against the outer area of the grren plug. Hit the end of the pry bar with a hammer... the cap will unscrew counterclockwise. If you have a 27mm hex tool, then you can remove the inner plug and place the hex tool in the green cap and unscrew it that way. Knocking the green plug / cap loose, is the cheapest way. The cap can crack / split when using the pry bar... keep that in mind. Your choice what you want to do. The only way to know if your timing is correct, is to remove that plug so you can see the mark on the flywheel.

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

Just replied to your google+ post... thanks for taking the time to take & post pictures!

@danielmadrigal5513

9 жыл бұрын

So I ended up buying a scanner for Android and u cleard the code and it hasn't come back and I found out it had other lights and you have every single video on your KZread about it. I thank you very much for your uploads I couldn't done it with out your help :) I'm glad their is people out their willing to help others with their cars. Really appreciated it :)

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

Daniel Madrigal Good to hear that things are working out!

Sorry to dig this up, I have the european model of this engine. (ADY) I get the infamous 5k rpm limit. Checked the timing, and set it with VCDS. In the 007 Range I need to get between 57 and 60 (or 1) in the first block, and between 5 and 8 in the second block. So i turn it both way to find the sweet spot but it isnt there? As soon as i get 57 in the first, the second stay at 9. turn it further a tiny bit and the first goes out of range (56) and the second is still at 9. If i try going higher on the first, the second just goes to 11 or something. Is the hallsensor dead? Any other ideas? Im not getting any faultcodes, just a lambda error from time to time. There seems to be a lack of power after about 4000rpm aswell. From 4500 and up its pretty nonexistent in a high gear. Runs very nice though. Starts easy, smooth idle.

@EXOVCDS

5 жыл бұрын

Since there is no actual "camshaft position sensor"... the camshaft itself could be out several teeth, without setting a fault code. A camshaft that is advanced will give an engine good bottom end torque, but less power at higher rpm. A camshaft that is retarded, will give less bottom end torque... but better high rpm power. I'm not sure this is the case with your engine, But you might want to check the crankshaft sprocket, to make sure that it has not moved out of place. As for distributor timing... all I do is set the distributor to #1 when the cam & crank are at TDC, that's it. Also check your exhaust system... if the engine can't breathe correctly, power issues will occur.

thank you for your videos, helps a lot, i was wondering, i followed all the steps, but the car crank but does not start, i need to rotate the distributor counterclockwise to engine to start, then the car hesitates, runs poorly, any toughts? or things i must check,

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

David Guillen Jackson What year & engine? If the distributor is pointing at #1 when the crankshaft & camsgaft are at #1... then you should not have to turn the distributor. If camshaft is at #1, make sure that crankshaft is at #1 (look at flywheel)! Sometimes the crankshaft sprocket (timing belt side) can move on the crankshaft... and that will affect distributor timing.

@Sipu4Life

7 жыл бұрын

Its a 97 (papers said sold december 96), Golf Gti, 2.0 8v, manual transmision; i followed every step, check the OT mark on the camshaft, also the "0" on flywheel, rotor pointing at the mark on the distributor, If the crankshaft sprocket move, do you recommend to change it?

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

David Guillen Jackson Crank pulley has a TDC "notch" that should point at an arrow in the lower cover when the flywheel 0 is lined up at TDC. If the crank pulley does not point at the arrow when the flywheel is at TDC... then the crank sprocket is worn and needs to be replaced. The distributor signal is not needed for the engine to run... you can disconnect the distributor to check for yourself. So the fact that you have to turn the distributor, tells me that something is not lined-up.

@Sipu4Life

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you, i will check it out.

@Sipu4Life

7 жыл бұрын

Thomas EXOVCDS i have checked the flywheel and is lineup with the 0, but the arrow and the notch are not align, the notch its at "11" and the arrow at "12". i guess i need to replace the sprocket; or all pulleys and the sprocket

I've had a problem with my 96 2.0 for awhile now, maybe you could give me some advice. I replaced my transmission and clutch, I upgraded to a BFI lightened flywheel, came in the clutch kit. After getting all that and the new trans in, it didn't want to start, so I pulled my crank position sensor, it had some oil on the tip. I cleaned it off and it fired right up, runs awesome. About 2 weeks later, it wouldn't start so I replaced the crank position sensor with a brand new one. It fired up but at around 4K RPMS it looses power and at 5k RPMS sounds like I have anti-lag, random misfires and backfires. I've replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. No change in the problem. This weekend I replaced the distributor and it helped the problem but did not fix the loss of power at higher RPMS. I can't scan the car as it will not connect to any code scanner. Am I missing anything? My 3 timing marks all line up perfectly. Could the new crank position sensor be faulty?

@jayceandjeremysadventures.4441

7 жыл бұрын

Oh and if I drive it hard, shifting between 4-5k the CEL, check engine light will flash. I've had some experienced VW mechanics look at it but nobody seems to have any idea other than a faulty new sensor. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

Could be crank sensor... I have seen some that would not let the engine rev past 4k.

Can advance timing be done just by rotating the distributor to a certain dergree?

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

Jose Alvarez If the rotor is not pointing at the notch in the housing when the engine is at TDC, then yes, the distributor can be turned to line-up the rotor with the notch (2 locking pins might have to be removed at the base of the distributor, if it is a 2.0l engine). Once lined-up, no further adjustment is needed. Advancing the distributor further might set a fault code.

I’m doing this now, is number one the first cylinder near the transmission or pulley set up?

@anthonylemelin4956

Жыл бұрын

Also, how do I know when I’m on tdc on compression stroke? I can see the exhaust valve is closed but how do I know I’m not in the intake stoke? Please help???

@EXOVCDS

Жыл бұрын

1 is closest to the belt. When the tdc mark on the camshaft gear is lined up with the mark on the plastic piece behind the cam gear... then the camshaft & crankshaft are at #1TDC. You can verify that the crankshaft is also at tdc... by looking at the flywheel or torque converter at the transmission timing hole.

Hi Thomas the problem I have on my Jetta mk3 is it has a code P0341 I replace ; cam,crank, O2 sensor , cat what should I do now ( take it to the monk yard or to a real mechanic), joking I want to kip it is fun drive this car ; thanks for the videos keep it up 👍

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

You need to check if the distributor hall sensor is producing a signal. If yes, then you need to adjust the timing correctly. If you are using the crank pulley TDC mark to set the engine to TDC, it could be that the crank gear is off of actual TDC or the crank pulley has spun on the rubber part of the pulley. Turn the engine until the flywheel TDC mark is lined up with the TDC mark of the transmission. Send me pictures of the flywheel mark, the camshaft TDC mark and the position of the distributor rotor. Send pictures to: fkh161 at fkh161 dot ca No spaces. Use a . in place of dot

@carlosbarajas6999

4 жыл бұрын

Thomas EXOVCDS ok I will follow all the steps you mentioned and I take some pictures and send it to you,Thanks Again.

Thank you Soo much for the video! Just so you know the PDF links in the description are all dead.

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, I know... don't want to get a copyright infringement lawsuit. Thank you for watching!

@joshandseb

3 жыл бұрын

@@EXOVCDS ahh understandable? Is there somewhere on your website we can find them?

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

@@joshandseb click the fkh161 link in the description... then click on "tool request" to send me a message. I'll send you the pdf tomorrow.

Sorry for the repeat of this question but i though you would see it more likely. Hey Thomas, one year ago i made you some questions about the timing of my engine, you very helpfully helped me the most you could but sadly after these months i have been riding with the engine not 100% on time, so i decided to take a look at the distributor and the mid timing sprocket/shaft. I saw that my mid sprocket shaft, the one that goes all thr way through inside the engine to meet with the distributor gear, has horizontal play and quite significant that with the force of the distributor rotor, i can move it back and forth and see it moving towards outside the engine with the belt on. I would like to know if that is normal, also my distributor shaft itselft has a tremendous amount of vertical play, literally 3 or 4 mm of play, i ve been looking arround and couldnt find any info about that, form what i know, some distributors have rotor play and that is normal, mine has it aswell a little bit, but its a lot greater if i had the vertical play. If you need any info, its basically the same as the old 1.8 /2.0 VW mk2/mk3 engines, my distributor is a Sagem one and it is hall sensor type. Kind regards.

@EXOVCDS

5 жыл бұрын

Sorry for replying a second time... thought you would see it more likely. The end-play is set by the seal carrier / flange. The shaft itself has a lip that rides against the seal carrier / flange. If you are lucky, a new seal carrier / flange will be all you need... worst case, you will need to remove / replace the intermediate shaft. i.ebayimg.com/images/i/300831793763-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

@ferfire9

5 жыл бұрын

HAHAH thats funny :D Hope you didnt bother with it. The seal carrier that fixes the intermediate shaft into the block right? And what about the distributor shaft vertical play, is it normal? Thanks P.S.: Cant see the photo, it appears a blank logo.

@EXOVCDS

5 жыл бұрын

The distributor shaft has metal & fibre washers / shims... you can maybe add one or 2 to reduce the free play. Picture works for me... weird.

@ferfire9

5 жыл бұрын

I will look at the intermediate shaft first, maybe change the seal carrier, looking at part numbers, doesnt seem to be an easy to find part. Tomorrow i will measure the end play of the shaft, from what i saw, max allowed is .25 mm. I surely have a lot more than that, maybe 3 mm. Edit: Part NR is: 027115033 to anyone interested.

Hi Thomas, Thank you so much for the info! I was having a G40 fault reading on my VCDS, and I supposed it could be because of a bad distributor alignment. Then I saw your video and it blew my mind that the Crankshaft Position Sensor was at the distributor. The problem is that the error code clears itself when the engine is warm... It behaves strangely when it's cold (3-4 days after I let it parked): it can stall just when starting it to move, it loses a cylinder when the engine is around 2000-3000rpm... But I can't figure out why it happens only when it's cold, and how the hell it gets fixed when it is warmer (it takes about 5 minutes to recover after it reaches 90ºC). Is it because it has to learn the alignment of the distributor every time I let it parked for 3-4 days? BTW, it doesn't happen if I use the car daily, which is even weirder. I hope you could give me a slight hint on what it could actually be. And of course, in the next days, I'll try to align the distributor properly. Thank you again and hope to hear from you!

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

Crankshaft position sensor is NOT at the distributor. The Camshaft position sensor is the hall sensor in the distributor. You can unplug the distributor and the engine should still start & run. The crankshaft position sensor is mounted to the engine block, to the right of the oil filter above the oil pan. You said "it takes about 5 minutes to recover after it reaches 90ºC". Most cars will take longer than 5 minutes to warm up from cold to 90c... if it runs rough when first started, check which cylinder is the cause ("power balance test" ). Remove one spark plug wire at idle and note RPM drop. Reattach spark plug wire and disconnect next spark plug (do all 4). The one that does not drop engine RPM is the bad cylinder. Inspect the reason why (spark plug fouled, cracked spark plug ceramic, bad ignition wire, bad injector spray etc.)

@calin97100

4 жыл бұрын

@@EXOVCDS Thank you for the fast reply! As you've mentioned, I'm going to perform a power balance test to the cylinders. But first I'll have to wait for 3-4 days until the symptoms come back again, as they don't appear if I use the car regularly. As soon as I have updates on the car I will let you know. Thanks again for the tips! :D By the way, can I unplug the spark plug wires from the distributor cap? As you know, the other ends of the cables are quite difficult to get to by hand, because the inlet manifold gets in the way.

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, you can disconnect them at the cap. Before you start the engine... remove one at a time and plug it back on to the cap (they can get stuck quite good, so this will loosen them up for the test). There is a possibility of getting shocked if you hold the wires with your hand. Use suitable rubber handled pliers to be on the safe side, but be careful not to damage the wires / rubber boots. You only have to lift the wires off of the cap an inch or two. It only needs to be a quick removal... 2 seconds. If you hold the wire away for too long, that can stress the ignition coil.

I followed your steps in the video and I can get tdc on the timing belt and tdc on the blue thing by the distributor and I can get the distributor to line up also but the rotor will not line up it points to where spark plug 4 goes in what should I do cause the engine will turn over but will not run

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

If the camshaft sprocket is pointing at the TDC mark and the crankshaft / flywheel is pointing at the TDC mark, then the distributor should be pointing at the #1 notch in the distributor. What's the whole story with the car? Did you remove & install the timing belt? Was it pointing at #1 before you took everything apart? If you are lucky, no valves will have been bent / gotten damaged. Rotate the engine to TDC, if rotor is pointing to #4 swap #1 & #4 spark plug wires on the distributor cap. Do the same for #2 & #3. Should start now... but the spark plug wire orientation is not where it "should be". You would have to remove the distributor and then rotate the rotor shaft 180 degrees and then reinstall the distributor.

@wesleybrewer7539

7 жыл бұрын

***** I got it to line up finnaly. And no I didn't remove or replace timing belt. My issue started with intermediate starting so I looked up what could be wrong and then hooked it up and got the codes it was reading and it was misfiring 1 and 4 and the crankshaft position sensor was another code so I changed plugs wires and the entire distributor including the cap. And it's all hooked up and I should receive the sensor today in the mail. My question is after I fixed that and tried starting the car the engine turned over but wouldn't start up. Would the crankshaft position sensor keep it from starting.

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

Yes, a bad crank sensor will cause a no-start (no spark)... have someone crank the engine with the ignition key while you check for spark (remove the center distributor wire, the one from the ignition coil and hold it 1/8" from the cylinder head... if spark jumps, crank sensor is ok).

@wesleybrewer7539

7 жыл бұрын

***** ok I will check that when I get home. And if by chance that it's ok what do you think it would be.

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

Wesley Fulcher If you have spark, then you need to make sure that the spark plug wires are in the correct position on the distributor cap. You need to make sure that the timing belt is OK... if it has missing teeth, that can cause the timing to move. If all that is OK... check fuel flow / pressure and if the injectors are spraying.

When I tried to remove the rotor, cannot take it off, it is hard, should be like that, or I have to pull it until it comes out? My car is a A3 2.0 Jetta

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

The rotors can get stuck sometimes... and they can even break when pulling on them. Before you try to pry it off, make sure you have a new one just in case. It should pull off easy... when they are stuck, I grab the rotor with pliers and pull & wiggle the rotor until it pops off. If it breaks, I replace it.

@k23cr

8 жыл бұрын

+Thomas EXOVCDS you are the best! YOU ROCK! 😎 thank you very much... Muchas gracias mi amigo! 😁

hey man I was wondering if you can help me out I got a 2002 vw cabrio i replace a ECM crank sensor there's still no signal to the coil i am getting signal to the injectors can you tell me a little bit about what else can it be??

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

I can only suggest to check all the wiring as per a wiring diagram. If all the wiring & components (coil etc) check out... bad ECM.

@Fernandogofficial

8 жыл бұрын

I don't check all the wiring and everything seems fine it's just that I'm not getting the signal getting fault for ECM disable what is a mean engine control module disabled

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

What is the actual fault code?

Hello this video is super help full I love your videos, I'm in need of your help though, I have a 97 Jetta gt with the 2.0 motor, I was driving home when all of a Sudden my car dies, I kept cranking but no start what so ever, finally towed it home, scanned for codes and got code camshaft position sensor, sensor A circuit, range/performance, and also bank 1 single sensor, I've replaced distributor (but did not do it at tdc because I wasn't aware of this helpful video lol) replaced ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, tried setting it to tdc and setting the distributor to no.1 piston but the car will start for like 2 sec then shut off. Could it be that my timing to my distributor is still off? Please help me out I love and miss my Jetta so much!

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

Yes, could be that the timing / rotor is not in the correct position. Turn the engine to TDC and check if the distributor rotor is pointing at the little notch that is in the housing.

@imnotahlex4003

8 жыл бұрын

+Thomas EXOVCDS yes I was able to set at tdc, notch was pointing towards 1 but still only get it to crank, and now it's also backfiring really loud lol

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

Firing order is wrong... you might have the distributor pointing at #1 when the cam & crank are actually on #4.

@imnotahlex4003

8 жыл бұрын

+Thomas EXOVCDS ok I will double check after this rain, I'm in Texas and the rain is random lol

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

+Ahlex Delgado When you look inside the distributor... it should only have "one" shutter window.

Mi jetta

Quick question is the position of the notch has to match the first cylinder ?

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

There's a tiny notch / line in the edge of the distributor housing / ring... yes, number 1 should point to that when the flywheel / #1 piston is at TDC. ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/MasterClass/2012-06-22_024424_dizzy.jpg

@haMonyqueso

8 жыл бұрын

i didn't do a timing belt could this cause it not to crank ?

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

+Steven Sanchez Let's start at the beginning. Car was running before you did anything. You changed some parts and now it does not run. Do you still have the old parts? Install the old parts and see what happens. If you did not touch the timing belt, then the timing should not have changed. If the car DID NOT RUN before you changed parts... then yes, check the timing belt. Maybe it is bad / broken.

@haMonyqueso

8 жыл бұрын

thats right. But at this point i think a have faulty parts i have tried every thing

So I can't get my distributor to come out, but it wiggles ever so slightly. I put the 13mm bolt/hook back, thinking that was all it took to hold it in place and now the distributor shakes while the car is running (only ran for a few seconds before it died) I can't get it to even seat fully and stop wiggling and I'm not sure what to do to fix this, any suggestions?

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

+Uriah Siner Sometimes I have to use two pry-bars to rock the distributor side to side (carefully) until it decides to lift far enough to free itself. Spray the area with wd-40 to soften the seal under the distributor.... give it some time and try again. Once out, turn the engine to TDC #1 and then reinsert the distributor so that the distributor rotor lines up with the #1 notch in the distributor housing.

@Mr6Sinner

8 жыл бұрын

+Thomas EXOVCDS the only angle I can see to get my pry bar in there makes it so the bar pulls on the electrical plug that's on the right side of the distributor, do I need to take a part out of my car in order for a better angle?

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

Uriah Siner It's hard to explain... but you should be able to get a pry bar under the distributor to apply upward pressure. If you have two, then place them opposite each other. Rotate the distributor so that you are not pushing against the plastic hall sensor connector. Move anything else that is in the way. The wobble is because the distributor is not seated fully and if it now does not start, the drive gear is either not engaged or the timing is out too far.

HELLO FOM CHRIS I GOT A 95 VW MK3 MANUAL TRANSMISSION I GOT A QUESTION I SAW YOUR VIDEO ON TIMING BUT ON MY FLYWHEEL I DO NOT HAVE A 0 ON IT JUST A LINE SO IS THAT MY MARK ALINGMENT AND ALSO DOES THE HALL SENSOR GET GROUND FROM THT TORX SCREW CAUSE MY MK3 RUNS GOOD IT JUST IDLES A LITLLE NOT SMOOTH WHAT DO YOU SUJEST I DO

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

1.8L or 2.0L? Flat line is most likely TDC. I don't know what you mean when you say: Does the hall sensor get ground from the torx screw. If it's a 2.0L, the engine will run with the hall sensor disconnected. You need to check if the hall sensor is actually working... use a voltmeter and check the voltage of the center pin of the 3 wire hall sensor plug. Compare that voltage with the voltage of the engine off & key on. Let me know the results.

@chrisvillalobos4995

4 жыл бұрын

well the reason I asked about the the to hall sensor is be cause it broke so I had to drill it out in the outcome the screw is bigger do to the drilling out but like I said before it starts up fine in hot and cold temps and I did replace the relay 109 but it runs smooth for a little while and it gets a little not smooth so I don't know what else to look for I cleaned throttle body iac valve new plugs cap and rotor .the idle just raises a little and lowers not a lot the rpm needle use to bounce a little but I fixed tha it was poor solder joints on the cluster I thought maybe throttle adaptation or vacuum leak just need a little help

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

I still don't know if you have a 1.8L or 2.0L engine... if you have a 2.0L engine, disconnect the hall sensor and drive it like that for a few days. Any difference? Let me know. Fault codes? O2 sensor working correctly? Is the crankshaft gear OK? The gear can come loose, which changes cam / crank timing.

@chrisvillalobos4995

4 жыл бұрын

I am sorry its a 95 vw mk3 2.0 manual transmission so u want me to test the hall sensor with it diconected ???as far as the hall sensor the question was does it get ground from the mounting screw or does it get ground from the wire in the plug ,the car starts up fine its just the idle not smooth but I have noticed that when I rev it up it revs up and then it drops like it wants to shut off but it doesn't

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

Disconnect the sensor, leave it disconnected, drive the car... any difference? I'm no electrical engineer, so I don't know if the sensor is grounded through the mounting bolts.... I "assume" not, since there is a ground wire in the plug.

When you say “pointing at cyl number 1”, what do you mean?

@EXOVCDS

2 жыл бұрын

The distributor rotor needs to point at cyl 1 on the distributor cap. Follow the spark plug wire from cyl 1 spark plug to the distributor cap... lift the cap and look if the rotor is pointing at that spark plug wire. The camshaft & camshaft need to be set to #1 TDC first.

@jonathandeuire6962

2 жыл бұрын

@@EXOVCDS thanks. I was driving home the other day and the clamp that holds the dizzy down loosened up and the entire dizzy/cap assembly rotated out of time. I think I just need to use a timing light and turn the whole assembly by itself to get it back in time. I have it close enough to run but not dialed in

@EXOVCDS

2 жыл бұрын

The engine will run with the distributor hall plug disconnected... when it rotates too far, the spark will go to the wrong cylinder. No timing light required. Remove upper timing belt cover. Turn engine by hand till the tdc mark on the cam gear points at the arrow above the gear at the 12 o'clock position. Remove distributor cap. Rotate distributor till the notch in the distributor housing it lined up with the center tip of the rotor. Tighten mounting bolt.

Could this be why I still have a camshaft position sensor code? My dad bought my 96 jetta with a broken timing belt for cheap because his mechanic didn't know they aren't interference and thought it had to have the motor replaced. My dad and I put the new timing belt on, and i'm not sure if he indexed it like this. It would stall/stutter and the rpm's would bounce or drop. So I got a new distributor thinking it was the sensor itself. Put it in and didn't change anything. So we kind of played around turning the distributor and now it runs better and doesn't stutter as much but the rpm's are hardly ever normal and the code came back on after it was cleared. Is this what I should check?

@EXOVCDS

10 жыл бұрын

Yes, could be... turn the engine to TDC by hand and then line-up the rotor. These 2.0L ABA engines CAN bend valves! I have seen a couple, but most seem to be lucky when the belt breaks.

@SlipknotMaggot0526

10 жыл бұрын

***** yeah I know it's probably 50/50 that the valves are bent. Luckily they weren't and the engines are pretty cheap! Thanks for the input, love your videos!

@CODxFUNxMAN

10 жыл бұрын

what fixed it?

@CODxFUNxMAN

10 жыл бұрын

keeping in mind i dont know the history of my engine but the belt has not been broken from what i knowthe mark on the crank or cam i think is off a half a tooth or so

I've had to use an engine hoist to remove the distributor before. They can really get stuck in there. Lol

@EXOVCDS

10 жыл бұрын

Wow, I have never had one that stuck before... a pry bar on either side and a bit of wiggle usually gets the job done.

Any chance the PDFs can be accessed?

@EXOVCDS

2 жыл бұрын

Click the fkh161 link in the description... then click on "tool request" to send me a message (so that I can send it to you).

@EXOVCDS

2 жыл бұрын

Haven't received an email... there's no charge.

Pls i need help and answer as soon as it possible on my mk3 gti 8v 2e engine it cranks but wont start i've installed engine and all is connected correctly i deleted code on immobilizer, fuel pump is working it has fuel, my coil is working it shows electric, my dis.. cap is clean and good, wires on spark plugs also, plugs are black, timing is perfect i did all as u in video clip but it's cranking and wont start. Actually sometimes it is about to start but that lose and keep cranks. I dont know what is wrong. I have that MAF it should be fine. The fat hose for air is kind a bad but i fixed it with good tape. Please help me with this and sorry for bad english 🥺😢 Also my battery is weak but when i jump start it it cranks very good it has "power" but still nothing. Thank you🙂

@mihe4627

3 жыл бұрын

It starts for about 1-2 secs and keep cranking sometimes on first try on a couple of hours of trying

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

Have you checked for fault codes with a scan tool? If you have spark & fuel but it does not run... then you need to check camshaft / crankshaft timing (set the engine to #1 TDC and make sure that the crankshaft & distributor align with the camshaft). Post a video on your channel so that I can see & hear what the engine is doing.

@mihe4627

3 жыл бұрын

I have uploaded the video on my channel 🙂

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you.

Here's a question that no one seems to be able to answer. 1999 jetta, 2.0, hitting rev limiter at 5k. seems to have less power than it should. Any ideas?

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

+Doug Kizer 99 mk3 or 99 mk4? Standard or automatic? What octane gas? Altitude? Ambient temperature? Spark plugs? With or without A/C? What's the charging voltage? What type of air filter? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed / checked? Cat or no cat? Stock muffler?

@dougierotten

8 жыл бұрын

98 k2. 5 speed a.c., a.c. delco plugs, between 500ft to 1081 ft altitude. Charging voltage not sure of, but has short ram air intake with spectre filter. Straight pipe past the cat. Got it this way. Did timing belt, was doing this before I did the belt.

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

+Doug Kizer How do you know "seems to have less power than it shouldn't? They don't call them 2slow / 2.0slow for nothing. Loss of stock exhaust back-pressure can work against power gains (too much cylinder scavenging of the fresh air/fuel mix that is entering during intake & exhaust valve overlap). Can't do much if cam & crank / ignition timing is where it is supposed to be.

@dougierotten

8 жыл бұрын

That's what I figured. I am going to get whole new exhaust system in February, just wanted to know what would cause the rev limiter hitting at 5k

@EXOVCDS

8 жыл бұрын

+Doug Kizer Stock max HP is at 5400rpm... so it's not that far off. Are you sure it's the rev limiter that is kicking in... instead of other factors?

Amigo muy buenos videos me han ayudado mucho, oye amigo una pregunta te agradecería mucho me pudieras orientar un poco tengo un golf a3 al cual al girar la llave el relevador de la gasolina se agarra sonando como loco ya lo cambie por uno nuevo pero sigue igual sabras a que se refiere amigo? Tengo este video no se si le puedas dar un vistazo por favor kzread.info/dash/bejne/dpONqtCEZbiWY6w.html

hey man... my 95 golf had codes for cam and crank no signal... checked the marks on cam gear and the mark on the lower timing cover and they seem fine... but I don't know if the distributor sprocket Is align.. can I align the distributor with put removing the belt...????

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

I assume it is not running / starting? 2.0L? If you scan when the engine is off, a cam sensor fault will be flagged. If you are also getting a crank code, then the crank sensor is probably bad. Cam sensor (distributor hall sensor) is NOT needed to make the engine run. With cam & crank at TDC, remove the distributor cap and check where the rotor is pointing. Reposition the rotor / distributor if you have to (yes, can be done with out moving the timing belt).

@santosb9442

7 жыл бұрын

Actually the car runs. ... but after driving it for a while it does not pass 3000 rpm. .. I had to turn it off then it will drive normall again

@santosb9442

7 жыл бұрын

OK I'm going to check the rotor

@EXOVCDS

7 жыл бұрын

Rotor will probably be OK... since it runs fine on initial start. Most likely, you have a bad hall sensor inside the distributor. Once it gets warm / hot, the signal cuts out.

@santosb9442

7 жыл бұрын

Oh OK .. so new distributor could fix the problem

So I bet I can stump ya has new coil pulsing on middle and two on end test good sends spark.. now to coil wire test 1/8 inch away ground to metal have spark when crank didn't have spark until replace crank sensor now have spark but none to plugs .. replace distributor still nothing ... my question is the a test with knew distributor to test hall sensor like one clip you have win 1.8..

@EXOVCDS

9 жыл бұрын

If it's a 2.0l engine, the hall sensor is not needed to make it run.... make sure that the rotor is turning when the engine is cranking. If not, broken timing belt.

@redcabby1

9 жыл бұрын

Sorry this car really drove me crazy and every thing came out sounding really yes.. dumb OK.. and you are VERY HELPFUL AND I thank you for the videos you have the smarts man.. good clips .. i have replace ton of parts car draining big time but wait this IS IT OR THE JUNKYARD 1998 VW cabrio 2.0 ABA spark at plugs missing .spark from coil is there ... replace :coil brand: new .brand knew distributor: knew crank sensor oh yeah I have spark at coil but no ..pulse is that possible from the three wires connect to the coilI thought if I replace cps sensor I would be back on road no dice.... I think ecu bad.? Ignition switch .timing . Or relay .fried..thanks for the help in advance to all those you help an continue to do so

put the cap back on back st

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

I still don't know what you are trying to say.

Where is the egr valve

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

Year, make, model, engine? EGR as in exhaust gas recirculation or EGR as in SAI (secondary air injection)? What's the actual issue / fault code?

@bigblay23

3 жыл бұрын

Thomas EXOVCDS 98 be Jetta gt yeah p4001 code or something I bought a new egr valve and can’t find where it is to replace it my rpm running a lil high too car runs but sluggish

@bigblay23

3 жыл бұрын

Thomas EXOVCDS air injection

@EXOVCDS

3 жыл бұрын

@@bigblay23 P0411? wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16795/P0411/001041

no room to put the cap on the back

@EXOVCDS

4 жыл бұрын

Sorry, I'm not sure what you are saying.