Hi,
Thanks for stopping bye!
I started this channel so that my nephews could see what their Uncle does for a living... I quickly realized that it provides a couple of other benefits. It allows people to see what is involved in repairing a car and it shows the different types of tools that a Technician is required to have, in order for him or her to repair those cars.
As this channel grows, I'm hoping that it might help me with future tool purchases or help me catch up with my RRSP contributions.
If you have any VW / Audi technical questions you'd like an answer to, login to my Forum and post the question there:
exovcds.freeforums.org/
I don't know everything about VW / Audi (never worked at a dealership) and all their different Models & Engines etc., but
I'll do my best to help you with your question.
Thanks for watching me work!
Thomas
P.O. Box 83041
Burnaby, BC
V5H0A4
Canada
Пікірлер
I had a similar problem with a Mercedes E320 4matic, where the transmission connector O ring failed and trans fluid weeped 5 feet upstream to the Transmission Control Module and triggered a warning light. Fortunately, I was able to repair everything. New connector on trans with O ring, flushed out the harness and the TCM with electronics cleaner. Saved the day!
Hello again I forget that I changed the engine
Why you always stick with your own
You can clean the ecm with baking soda and vinegar
What about the broken pins?
Same in BMWs.. fuel in ECU.
Simply...Wow....
Wow. Attention is right. I have seen the oil pressure sending units go bad but have never seen a problem in the wringing. Good video.
I guess it's not a guarantee that it will happen... just a possibility.
I caught this on my wife’s a6 3.0t before the migraine got past the plug. Changed the plug and pump.
Visual inspection always a first. Glad to see your back with videos
Wait, so VW has invented anti-gravity?
Hope the Audi Design Engineers are watching - this is one for their checklists. I think they use the Siemens Wiring CAD, Siemens could put at least a warning in the software for the condition when the designers witlessly designs in this problem (Although before seeing your video I would have done it too). Good one! The Chinese have an old saying: "The Work Will Show You How"..and it is so true and your discovery is a good example.
Great to see your vids again Thomas! I've heard about and pray it doesn't happen to my 2 MK4s. I wonder if US auto manufacturers have this problem. I've never heard of it until I got my VWs.
Ach du lieber Gott. Was fur ein Chaos.
I didn't know you spoke another language Wyatt. Probably when you were in the service
@@rrmech11 I lived in Germany for 5 years and have been married to a German for 27! But I don't know much. Just enough to get in trouble.
Electronic thermostat… just why!
Thermostat for standard transmission... warming up / cooling of gear oil.
Good info Thomas.What car was this?
B8 Audi A4
VW really made this an awful battery design! Our car is twenty years old, and the brittle plastic battery box has pieces break off every time the battery is changed. There are no "tabs" left. Superglue and prayers are holding it together. The engineer that designed the battery hold-down should be in prison. It's a real pain changing these out in the field in terrible weather.
Thank you for sharing and thank you for watching!
He gives me a headache lol. Only thing I learned from him as a female, if I need to change my brake oil in my car I can use turkey baster 😂
Thank you for watching!
What can cause a misfire when the car is warm and stepping in the accelerator
Year, make, model, engine? Standard or automatic? At what RPM? Will it do it in neutral?
@@EXOVCDS 98 vw jetta 2.0 Manual,usually around 3rd -5th gear and 3 to 4k rpm I won't do it in neutral
Spark plug, spark plug wires, distributor rotor, distributor cap, broken valve spring, bad fuel injector, bad ignition coil.
@EXOVCDS all those look new, except the ignition pack, how do i check the valve spring? Compression test?
@@EXOVCDS could that be the reason there's metal in my oil 🤣
hey mate! I have a skoda kodiaq 2.0 tdi EA288 .Need you help as iam changing water pump and removing old coolant from radiator and heater core and thermostat. should this work to bleed air out of system ?as i dont have vaccum pump or VCDS THNAKS Suggest a way please @Thomas Exovcds
Due to the design / layout / routing of the cooling system, it is not as easy as just adding coolant to the reservoir and hoping that the air bleeds out. There are check valves in smaller coolant hoses that need to open. A vacuum fill setup and scan tool to activate bleeding (after vacuum filling) will ensure all air is out of the engine.
But sir don't have vcds or vaccum . Can this be done by any other scan tool like AUtel etc
Yes, I know, you already said so. Autel might be able to activate "cooling system bleeding"... I don't know. Measure amount of coolant that you drain from the engine... as long as you fill the same amount of coolant into the engine you should be ok. Keep an eye on temperature when the engine is running. A few cold to hot cycles will help circulate the coolant. When the coolant cools, the level might drop, add more to the reservoir.
Help, if I don’t want to replace it, how can I disable it so it doesn’t lock anymore?
Break off the tip / head of the plunger or break off the "holder" on the inside of the filler door.
I cannot get that fucking bottom screw in
Is the top one loose or tight? Loosen it if tight, that will help align the bottom bolt better.
@@EXOVCDS I just got it in after a total of 7 hours. I tried putting the bottom In first but that didn’t work. I pretty much did what you just told me. That’s for the reply.
@NDAGR- Thank you for the update!
@NDAGR- Thank you for the update and thank you for watching!
Watched you video , just done a timing belt, water pump , tensioner kit, I don’t hear turbo spool up, no power, and Car jerks when trying to accelerate, I think I have my timing off a little , how do you adjust timing on cam sprocket to crank ,
Sorry about this video. It was my first year of uploading to youtube. Did you lock the camshaft into place when removing the timing belt? Did you lock the crankshaft into place when removing the timing belt? The service manual says to loosen the three 13mm head bolts that are on the face of the camshaft gear. The loose bolts ensure that the timing belt can move / stretch (when the timing belt tensioner is turned to adjust belt tension). With the cam & crank locked (TDC position) and the 3 cam bolts loose... timing will stay the same / correct while the belt is tensioned. Once the belt has been tensioned, the camshaft gear bolts are tightened. Once everything is tight, the lock tools are removed, the crankshaft is turned 2 turns, at which point the lock tools are placed back into their positions. If the lock tools fit, you are done / no further adjustment is necessary. Remove lock tools and reassemble everything else. If both lock tools do not fit, turn the crankshaft until the camshaft lock tool fits. Once the cam tool fits, loosen the 3 cam gear bolts (lock tool still in place) and rotate the crank until the crank lock tool fits (left or right direction, whichever way needed). You can only rotate the crankshaft a certain amount, because the 3 cam gear bolts are in a slotted hole... meaning as the crankshaft is moved, the cam gear will also move, but can only move as far as the slotted holes will allow. That is why it is important that the 3 cam gear bolts end up in the middle of the slotted holes when the timing belt is adjusted... that way, the gear can be rotated enough left or right when need be. Sorry for the long reply... a service manual has the instructions with pictures.
Thanks for the reply, that’s what I done, the only thing I didn’t do was make sure the 3cam bolts were in the middle of slots 🤷♂️
@eddiejohnson1078 Did you block the air intake with a rag somewhere and forgot about the rag?
I did block it, I thought I removed it, I’ll check , thanks
How many miles is on this vehicle?
106k km's / 65k miles
Could save the old parts at home 😜🍺
I've been collecting all the timing chains. 👍
Some shops really over tighten those plastic oil filter caps. A few times I've really stuggled to get mine off after it's been over done.
I got a new crank gear and bolt, drilled hole in gear, mounted on crank, drilled hole thru to crank, pinned, now not going to move.
Nice.
Wait..... you didn't change the cabin air filter?!?!? .... /s
@@atubebuff LOL, actually did. Air & cabin. I have pictures! What's another $20, right?
When I saw cracked across the screen I thought that you were going to tell us that the oil pan was plastic. Good video.
Haven't seen a cracked plastic one yet. 🤯
@@EXOVCDS They are using a lot more plastic on cars today even plastic drain plugs on oil pans. I guess they gotta make a buck.
As the Beatles say It's a clean machine. Nice. Happy Motoring.
I'm no mechanic by any means, but I will tackle jobs that I feel are within my wheel of confidence, and after watching as many videos from those that have done it before. The one thing that amazes me is how some of the best mechanics like yourself just throw all those bolts around that you just removed. I have to meticulously keep track of everything with plastic baggies or something like those pill containers that have the times on them etc, and keep everything in the order I removed them. When it comes to timing belts, have they gone to primarily rubber belts vs. metal chains because they last as long or is it because they want us to have to come back to the dealer more often to replace them? Or maybe to have people that don't keep up with maintenance to have to replace the car or engine? I'm no engineer, but when this simple basic component can take out your entire engine, it makes me wonder. I know there are engines that won't get destroyed when they break, so why not make all engines that way? These questions may sound stupid to a seasoned mechanic like yourself, but it just makes me wonder.
Having done many small jobs such as this, it's a no-brainer to know which bolt goes where. Yes, some bolts shouldn't be reused (service information will tell you which). I use a lot of zip-lock backs on "bigger jobs" such as this one. kzread.info/dash/bejne/noZ7j8Sxn5DKgs4.htmlsi Thank you for watching.
Old school arbejdede 🤠😛🍺
Can I c the clutch pedal cluster for polo player
We don't have Polo in Canada. Check your service manual.
A thing of absolute beauty that you do. Thanks for sharing!
Very kind of you to say, thank you! Thank you for watching!
Great video!
Thank you Peter.
Nice work Thomas!
Hi Glen, thanks!
I seem to have some wetness on the arm that extends out from the tranny and bolts onto the CV axle.. i think there is a seal there. is this something that can be replaced?
What year? I assume automatic? Yes, there's most likely an o-ring, maybe even a seal. I would have to look at service information or parts catalog.
93 aaf. I wonder if the tranny needs to come out or could I just remove the cv axle? Thanks.
It can probably be done with the transmission in place. Remove the axle and then the arm / trumpet. The rear mount will have to be disconnected.
Ok. One more question. Do I need any specialty tools ie bearing press? And do I need to drain the fluid?
@jamessullivan1648 I would have to check the service manual.
Why would a BPG only idle slightly higher (940 rpm) when the ac is off at idle. When ac is on car idles perfect . Smoke test didn’t reveal and leaks. Spraying Starter fluid around hose’s and fitting didn’t cause a shift in idle. Love the VW/Audi content 👍🏾
What is perfect rpm?
@@EXOVCDS perfect meant steady when ac is on. When ac off idle is not steady (hunting) between 840 - 940 and then throws a cel as passive P0507.
I didn't know about P0507, thanks for the info. wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16891/P0507/001287 Isolate / disconnect the PCV from the intake manifold and plug the manifold where the pcv hose was attached (leave pcv open so it can breathe). Same issue?
I wish the oil pan on my 1968 Cadillac came off that easy. Tidy work buddy. How do you like working at that shop?
5 years this October. Going well. More stress & less vacation. Good supply of beer though! =)
Back in the saddle again!
As far as youtube goes... it's a start. Thank you for watching!
A good weeks work ?🍺
Between other jobs & waiting for parts... took a bit longer. Thank you for watching!
To Awesome bud! A lot a work & meticulous work & u did it correctly...
What is BEW TDI?
BEW is the engine identification code. TDI is a diesel. This vehicle was a VW Golf. Mk4 / A4 refers to the 4th generation of the A platform (Golf /Jetta).
@EXOVCDS Oh ok..I knew the others...but nvr seen a BEW code..Thnx bud...ur good at wht u do...Be safe
@@woody95124 Thank you for watching!
At least a couple more "teardown" videos to come... maybe, editing takes time.
What to see ring gapping and install
@sebastianlorenzo4935 I didn't record any of the installation / assembling. I followed service manual instructions for ring gap checking & installation / positioning. Sorry.
If my video glasses video is still looking dark... let me know. When viewing it on my cellphone It's definitely a bit darker than when I edit it on my PC. I'll add / turn up a brightness filter if need be. I just need feedback before doing so.
Couldn't really see the dent in the Oil pan but I trusted you! So Thomas what do you think of the newer composite oil pans? Also, the MK7 water pumps and valve cleanings are all the rage now, would be neat to see how you deal with that kind of job. I did the water pump..... twice. Yes, I screwed up the positioning of the union and came very close to crying. Cheers!
@atubebuff Check my "Community" post tab... just uploaded a couple of pictures. Will reply to your other comments later tonight when I'm at home / have more time.
@atubebuff Sorry, forgot to reply to your other points. Yes, water pumps & valve cleaning are common issues. Hoping to record them soon.