One of the best and most straightforward videos I’ve seen covering the subject of inlays for VCarve. Thank you.

Clear demonstration that a top-notch educational video doesn’t need endless b-roll of machining and loud music. Thanks for this great job.

I loved when you said... we dont know why we choose .1 and .1. it works... that was exactly what i did with another video with also the same measurements.... it just works... great video, thank you for sharing

I have a 2 year old. I don't have the time for long videos. This was perfect for me. It took me 3 days to watch one that was 3 hours. And I got more out of yours! Thank you so much. It reminded me when I would watch This old house with my Dad.

Very nice work and explained straight and forward.Some guys over complicate things.

You come off like a couple of old guys sitting on the porch whittling a stick. In truth, your work is absolute genius. The hummingbird inlay belongs in a museum. The world needs more craftsmen, and you guys are top-notch.

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you, Richard. If you saw us in the shop, we should probably be sitting on the porch whittling on a stick. But somehow we do manage to get some things done. In the past few weeks we made several end tables with bookmatched spalted maple tops surrounded by walnut for the frame, skirt and legs. We inlaid walnut figures into the spalted maple tops, like this hummingbird and other figures. Inlays in a table top get very nerve wracking. Good spalted maple is very hard to get and very expensive.. If we make a mistake it is costly and wastes a lot of time. But somehow we managed to put together a half dozen really nice tables. We like the challenge.

One of the best videos on inlays I've seen. Great job guys!

This is great! Thanks for taking the time to share with us.

Very well done gentlemen. Clear instructions AND views of the actual VCarve screens used for tool pathing.

Awesome video and great project. Short and to the point - great work guys, can't wait to try it!

Excellent video! I can't think of a better source of knowledge then "two old guys" Thank you!

Great instructional video guys! Your craftmanship shines!

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge! Your steps were very easy to follow and your finished product was lovely.

Great video and a beautiful inlay!

Awesome video! Dynamic Duo, great instructions and a great finished product.

Very well done video and excellent presentation. I lay is on my list of things to try. I have done inlay with veneers. Thanks for taking the time to make this available.

Beautiful work. Great explanations. Thank you very much for sharing!

Thanks guys this looks great! I am going to be testing this when my cnc router is assembled... unfortunately that may be months from now! still inspiration and motivational..

Looks very cool. I'm anxious to try it out. Thanks for sharing!!

That was pretty amazing. Thanks for sharing.

Beautiful work, I hope to incorporate inlays like yours into my cutting boards!! Thanks for the video and subscribed!

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

I just did a large turkey size cutting board with a large inlay. Walnut on maple. Turned out great. If I knew how I would post a picture for you. Try it! You will like it!

Very well done Sirs! Congratulations from Brazil!

well done guys

What a great video - thank you for sharing!

Great explanation nicely done. Thanks for Sharing!

looks so nice

Clear and concise. Just what I needed!

Great video!

Beautiful... too beautiful for cutting board..

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Display the pretty side, cut on the plain side. But really, very few home made cutting boards actually are used for cutting don't you think?

Thank you. I've saved this and hope I'll be able to replicate when I get my machine

Awesome video !

very smartly done.

Great video.

Finally, numbers I like. And Bravo.

Love it good job.

Very helpful video.

Beautiful!!!

I am awestruck!

Very nice!

God bless! i like it.

Very nice. The only area not covered was the feed and speed rates of the bits used. That's where I need help.

@DaveVanAntwerp

5 ай бұрын

Speeds and feeds vary substantially between machines and materials. Your experience is the best guide.

Great explanation, many thanks, just a thought and Knowing the price of wood, maybe if you pocketed out the inlay as regular square shape, it could then be used again, depending on thickness of the stock of course :)

The .1 and .1 are respectively the depth between the bottom of the inlay and the bottom of the the pocket, and the gap that you can see between the base and the inlay once the inlay is inserted.

@sbrunner69

5 жыл бұрын

That is absolutely correct, Ive done the experiments to prove it. Thanks for answering so concisely!

@garthn2561

5 жыл бұрын

@@sbrunner69 Would have been more concise if I said "the" instead of "the the" :)

Great video. I wanted to engrave something on a hardwood floor (prior to installing). I wanted to make the pocket .25 inches deep (start depth 0, flat depth .25). I have thought about making the inlay start depth .15 and the flat depth .10. If I had my own machine, I would make some rectangles 1 inch by 2 inch and experiment with various parameters and see if I can understand the "magic" numbers (.1 and .1) a little better. I have to pay a monthly fee to use a shop with a CNC router and a per minute charge for the CNC router so I do not want to pay for a lot of experiments since this is a one off project. The people who run the shop have no experience with vbits. They use end mills for their inlays. For the fist rectangle I would use the same magic number you used for the pocket and inlay. For the second I would just change the pocket (0, .25) and duplicate the inlay (.1, .1). For the third, I would use (0, .25) for the pocket and (.15, .10) for the inlay. I might even try a fourth with (.1, .15) for the inlay and then see if I can understand the magic by taking measurements. The reason I was thinking of using (.15, .1) is that I want .15 overlap (penetration) with a .1 gap for glue and imperfections. The .15 is where I want the "art" of the inlay to match the art of the pocket. We know the art of the pocket is at start depth 0. I would then expect a gap between the boards (when glued together) of .1 I don't know if you can follow. If you were interested in learning more about the magic numbers, this might be something you might want to try. If you take measurements of the inlay before and after gluing then the numbers wouldn't be mysterious. I truly would love to understand the magic. After gluing, you could cut the finished "rectangles" down he middle and see how well the inlays fit. Again, a great video

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

Experiments are good. Go for it! Perhaps you can find a friend with a CNC who will do the experiment. If I'm visualizing your numbers correctly, changing the start inlay start depth or the pocket flat depth will not change the way the inlay fits into the pocket. But without seeing your experiment I wouldn't be absolutely sure. Since I know that 0.1 and 0.1 for the inlay and 0.0 and 0.2 work so well, I'll stick with those numbers. But if you do the experiment I'd love to see it!

@anthonymelidy5554

7 жыл бұрын

The only other place I know of that has a CNC router is the local high school and I think the shop teacher is a little intimidated with new technology so I know he would be reluctant to help. One day I might have some time and give it a try. I did try something with my settings (.15, .1) but didn't accomplish much since the pocket was never more than .1 deep and the inlay did fit quite nice. I need to try something deeper (like the experiment) so that I can measure penetration/overlap.

Excellent video. I've watched a ton including those that said DONT use any other parameters. Well I have only used yours ( .1 and .1) and get perfect fits every time. I do have one question as this old brain cant seem to figure it out. My band saw is too small to cut away the excess so I too would rather use the CNC. I have been using my drum sander. I get setting up the pocket but not sure how to set up depths and how to zero the bit.

@DaveVanAntwerp

Жыл бұрын

In setting up the pocket to mill away the excess wood, I measure the depth from the top male inlay down to the surface. I subtract 0.05 from that number and that's the depth of cut for the pocket to mill away the excess. Actually, I often use the planer to remove most of the excess wood, leaving only about 1/4 inch. I don't like to go too close because sometimes it cracks off and damages the inlay. Then I mil off that last 1/4 inch. I create a pocket slightly larger than the wood I'm milling off and set the depth to leave about 1/16 inch. I take off that last 1/16 inch with the drum sander. It doesn't come off quite evenly. When I see that parts of the inlay still have a glue halo, I stop with the drum sander and finish with the hand held Random Orbit (RO) sander. Hope this helps.

Great video. I think it's better than the one from Aspire on the same subject. What values did you use on the inlay for final pass stepover and clearance pass?

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you for your compliment! I don't use a final pass for clearance. In Aspire or VCarve Pro I use the "edit" function when I choose the tool and for both the V carve tool path and the clearance tool path I set the pass depth at 0.20 inch so it does it all in one pass. That eliminates the bump that occurs if I use the typical pass depth of 1/2 the bit diameter. I typically use a 1/8 inch spiral bit for the flat depth tool path so 0.20 is a lot to ask of such a slender bit. But I haven't had any problem. I use cheap 1/8 inch carbide spiral bits purchased on eBay at about $1.00 each so if I break one it's no big deal, but it hasn't happened yet. On the other hand, the flat depth pass with the 1/8 inch spiral bit doesn't affect the quality of the inlay - only the Vcarve tool path does - so it doesn't matter if I leave the flat area pass depth at 1/16 - it just takes longer. Try doing a small simple inlay just for fun! One tip on gluing - I find that if I leave too much glue between the pieces they don't dry well and the moisture tends to swell or warp the wood so I brush out or even blow out excess wood glue with the air gun leaving a thin film of wood glue between the pieces. But in doing that, it's important that I make sure every surface is coated so it adheres.

Well done! You could give 99% of youtube lessons on how to do a how to video.

@DaveVanAntwerp

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! There are some darn good KZread videos. I learn a lot. And there are some others....

uh and ah amazing job

Hi guys !!....Love your hummingbird !!....care to share where you got the vectors of it ?! Congrats on your frendship & work !! ;0) Thks

@DaveVanAntwerp

5 жыл бұрын

We Googled clip art online and traced it in Vectric VCarve Pro. The hummingbird was found by searching "Tribal Hummingbird" and the flower was found separately the same way. We did some node editing to widen the beak a bit and widen the stem of the flower just to give enough body to the lines to show up in the inlay. We have done a lot of different inlays. We use clip art designated as free online, then trace it in VCarve Pro.

Great video and very informative. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. The only question I had is the male inlay depth settings. The video commentary says cut depth should be .2, but the settings in the screenshot are .1 start depth with .1 flat depth. In some of the comments for this video it also says that the cut depth should be .2 for male inlay. I don't know where you can set the cut depth for a V carving other than the flat depth. Am I correct in thinking that the .1 start depth and .1 flat depth setting is equal to a .2 cut depth that is mentioned? Or should the flat depth be set at .2? Thanks

@DaveVanAntwerp

5 жыл бұрын

Correct, Ken. If you set the start depth for the male inlay at 0.1 and the flat depth at 0.1, the end result will be an inlay 0.2 deep which will exactly match the 0.2 cut depth of the female pocket. If you forget to start at 0.1 like I do on occasion, your male inlay will not fit into the female pocket - it will just a bit too large. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt. The female start depth is 0.0 and the flat depth is 0.2. the male start depth is 0.1 and the flat depth is 0.1.

Great video, Dave, very informative. I have a sign to inlay that will be 3/4" x 17" x 34" maple base with walnut letters. The sign is all text, one word is 4" tall x 30" long. Full depth with a 60 degree bit will be .390". Should I cut the female part to full depth in one pass? Also, what do you suggest for the start and finish depths on the inlay male part? Thanks.

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Phil, the depth of the cuts should never vary. Your female pocket toolpath should start at 0.0 inches with a cut depth of 0.2. The male inlay toolpath should start at 0.1 with a cut depth of 0.1 . The size of the inlay has no bearing on the cut depth. Your 60 degree bit is fine - that's what I use.

Any idea if this is possible with Fusion 360? I cannot afford VCarve.

Thanks for sharing I have used you technique several times since your postingl... I was wondering where you found that hummingbird and flower I have searched the internet and haven't been able to find it.. I would like to make one of those also.

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

I don't remember specifically where those designs came from, only that they were two different files that we downloaded. We would typically search Google images for black and white clip art "hummingbird" and "flower". Those two happen to be in the tribal category if that's an option. It only took a couple minutes to find them. So do a Google search, go under images, select for black and white clip art, and put in your search terms. You will find them!

@carrollstanley1191

6 жыл бұрын

thank you... i found it

Excellent work! Where did you get the original image?

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

We search Google under "Images" for black and white clip art . This one was put together from two different files, one for the bird, the other for the flower.

@knowchops

6 жыл бұрын

Beautiful designs! May I ask how you draw the images onto your art program? Do you draw it all with a mouse like in MS paint? Or is there some kind of program that can transfer the image over onto the cnc program?

Excellent video Dave. I really want to try this method, however, I am an ArtCam user. Do you know of anyone who has done this with ArtCam?

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

Hey, Dennis, I have to believe you can use the same technique with ArtCam. I'm sure you can do VCarve tool paths. I think it would work if you just do the same start depth and the same depth of cut. Don't forget to mirror image your male inlay and draw a box around it for the flat area pocket. My suggestion would be to outline the most important steps from the video, then set up your VCarve tool path for the female side, and then mirror it and do the VCarve and flat area pocket for the male. Hope you try it and then come back and let me know how it worked!

@Denniscaskey

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks, Dave. I'll give it a go and see what happens. :)

Great video,One question, if there is a danger of over sanding could you not make the female cut deeper and the male part thicker so that you have a little bit more to play with?

@DaveVanAntwerp

5 жыл бұрын

I can't see how that would make any difference, Bert, but you could always try it and let us know! I'm always curious if improvements can be made.

@garthn2561

5 жыл бұрын

@@DaveVanAntwerp It would help because thicker lines would become thinner instead of potentially disappearing. A 5mm line going to 4mm is a lot less noticeable than a 2mm line going to 1mm. Bert is quite right. Also, the additional volume of the inlay makes it a lot stronger - more edge contact and internal strength

Any advantage of 60 degree vs 45 degree V bits?

where did you get the art work and is it available. Nice Job by the way.

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Clip art - Google "clip art hummingbird" and select "images". Here is one.... moziru.com/explore/Hummingbird%20clipart%20tribal/#go_post_3164_tribal-clipart-hummingbird-6.jpg

Hello there! I'm having some problems clearing out the excess material with the CNC. Sometimes it goes just fine, but a lot of times I get little segments of the inlay torn out together with the excess material, usually those on the last parts I machine out. Do you happen to have any sort of advice to prevent this? I don't have a band saw as an alternative.

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Fernando, you can use your CNC to mill off excess material. Here are some things that might help do a smooth job. Assuming you ran the grain of the inlay the same direction as the pocket, you can also use your planer to take off excess material if your planer blades are sharp. Don't try to go too far down - leave a little to remove with the sander. 1. Be sure to use a sharp end mill - 1/4 or 1/2 inch usually works well, a new one. Stop before you get all the way and finish with the sander. 2. Reduce your stepover to 20% or 25% at most. The lower your stepover the longer it will take but the smoother it will be. 3. Use lower pass depths. You can change it for this toolpath by using the "Edit" button when you select the tool. the shallower the pass the less chipout you will get. 4. Be sure you are getting enough glue on both the pocket and the inlay portions and that the glue isn't getting dry before you clamp the two halves together. On the one hand, if you have too much glue it can make the wood too wet and it might warp. Been there, done that. On the other hand, if you don't apply enough glue you won't get a tight bond and the inlay can chip out. Been there, done that too. I use a paper towel and'or air gun on compressor to reduce but not remove glue. But the first thing to do is to be sure your toolpath depths are correct when you carve the pocket (female) and inlay (male). For the female (pocket) start depth is 0.00 and cut depth 0.20 inches. For the male (inlay) the start depth is 0.10 and the cut depth is 0.20. If these two depths are incorrect your inlays won't bond like they should. I'm guessing you are setting those up correctly, but we should never assume. Measure twice, cut once. Please post to let us know how it works out! -- Dave

@fer662

6 жыл бұрын

Firstly, really appreciate you taking the time to put this together for me!. I was a bit bummed because the 5 or so trials I did with this same toolpaths and scrap wood turned out spectacular and now that I'm using more expensive materials I had a high error rate. I think it must boil down to trying to be cleaner with the glue and using less as a result and I'll also try with a new endmill tomorrow. I'm also going to reduce the step over further to be on the safe side... What does your clearing toolpath look like? Do you clear from the outside in or any way special? The problem usually happens when a depth pass is finishing and theres a long-ish thin wall of material attached to very little support on the inlay. You kind of see it coming, but is there a way to avoid the scenario by means of setting up the toolpath more properly? Again, thanks a lot! Here's a pic of what I'm going: imgur.com/a55124a6-e2c9-474b-a01f-bcac42be97dd

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Fernando, I was unable to see your picture - the link above gave me an error message. But getting back to the problem, when you say clearing path, I'm assuming you are removing the male inlay from the top after it has been glued to the female pocket, correct? I use a raster tool path - back and forth rather than around and around - at 20% stepover. Pass depth should be no more than 1/8 inch. It takes longer but you will get a smoother job. If you are getting tearout you want to stop when you break through the top inlay, then finish with sanding preferably on a drum sander if you have one., or the random orbital sander if you don't have a drum sander. You might consider doing your next inlay with scrap wood first and see how it comes out. If you like the result, run the job again with more expensive wood. I do find that the types of wood make a big difference. If I use a very hard woods like hard maple, black locust or white oak the inlay works better than if I use softer woods. I also use walnut and cherry successfully. On the other hand Pine, cedar, catalpa, sycamore - very pretty woods but the inlays don't hold up as well. One other tip that may or may not make a difference - when I set my pass depth for doing the female pocket and male inlay, I set the pass depth at 0.20 inch regardless of the diameter of the bit. That may sound risky, but it eliminates a horizontal line in the cuts which may interfere with how well the two parts mate together when gluing.

Beautiful piece! Is that tiger maple?

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

It's an unusual piece of hard maple. It is darker than usual and has more of a grain pattern. It might be called "Curly Maple". Tiger Maple usually has more of an iridescent stripe pattern. The descriptors for maple are all subjective depending on the region of the country and the terms with which the woodworker is most accustomed.

@disabledwoodworker

7 жыл бұрын

I live in the deep south (southern GA) and that looks a bit like the tiger maple I use. But upon looking at it closer, I noticed that there were no prominent "stripes." Still a good looking piece of maple!

Great job, but I would like to see the CNC router cutting this out. I guess you must be using very thin bits.

@DaveVanAntwerp

3 жыл бұрын

1/4 inch 60 degree V-groove bit.

Hi Guys Great job Can you tell me who you purchased the cnc router parts from? Thanks - Mike G

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your compliment, Mike. Our CNC routers are home built using support from the Joe's CNC forum - www.joescnc.com/. Many of our router parts came from www.cncrouterparts.com/ . Our bits come from a variety of sources ranging from eBay to Amazon to our local Woodcraft store.

@Ikedupree23

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you - Mike G

Grate job,how do you run .125 bit at .2 without breaking

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Never broke a bit yet even though such a deep pass with a small bit is against the rules. The general rule is to run the depth of cut at 1/2 of the diameter of the bit or less, right? But if we do that, we get small ridges between the passes that interfere with the seating of the inlay. So we cut the full .2 depth in one pass. For some reason it works. We have never broken a bit. We do limit the stepover to 33% to reduce stress on the bit. And we use cheap Chinese bit costing about a dollar each on eBay so if we break one, its not a big deal. But we never break one. Try it!

any interest in sharing the cnc files ingenious work beautifully done

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Glad you like the video. We are happy to share files when appropriate but the purpose of this video is to explain how to do it. If you don't do it yourself, we failed. Make sense? Select a clip art, do an inlay, and let us know how it goes!

wow!...I know autocad intimately...but am still intimidated by all the software

@DaveVanAntwerp

5 жыл бұрын

Michael, with your knowledge of Autocad, you would find VCarve Pro a breeze. VCarve inlays are pretty easy, although the instructions look complicated. It's like tying your shoe - easy to do, but if you write out the instructions it looks terribly intimidating. After you do one or two you will wonder why you didn't do them before!

the answer for your question at 3:21 why start depth is not zero is here at this video kzread.info/dash/bejne/m4l82sxuc9iYgaQ.html

How are you saving the male to cut out. I tried that but it doesn’t ask me to change bits to cut the clearing path. Are you saving them as speedster files?

@DaveVanAntwerp

3 жыл бұрын

I save it as a new VCarve job, so I end up with two VCarve jobs - Female inlay and Male inlay. I save the Female toolpaths as usual. Then I save the Male toolpaths as usual.

@shaynetcrocker

3 жыл бұрын

@@DaveVanAntwerp right but I’m talking about the male cut path. I’m having to do my clearance path and my vcarve path as separate jobs. It won’t set it as one job because it says that I’m using the same tool 1 in vcarve pro. Are you having to do that or is the Onefinity cutting the clearance and then asking you to change bits and zero the z axis and continue the vcarve

What is the thickness of both pieces of wood? Thanks

@DaveVanAntwerp

3 жыл бұрын

Hey, Kipp, the good news is that any thickness can be used for either piece of wood. Keep in mind that the top piece will need to be removed so it will end up as scrap. The bottom piece can be whatever thickness you want to end up with.

In both instances you say you edit the toolpath to a pass depth of .2. Where are you doing this?

@DaveVanAntwerp

Жыл бұрын

To eliminate the small ridge around the edges when the tool makes two passes. Makes for a smoother glue joint.

@CelliniCreations

Жыл бұрын

@@DaveVanAntwerp what I mean was, in Vcarve, where are you setting the pass depth?

@DaveVanAntwerp

Жыл бұрын

When you set up your toolpath you should be able to set the depth of pass for the bit. In my tool library the depth of pass for end mills is set by default to 1/2 of the bit diameter. So when I set up the toolpath, I change the depth of pass to 0.2 to prevent a horizontal line in the middle of the cut. I use Vectric VCarve Pro which has an "Edit" button for each tool when setting up the toolpath. You may need to change the depth differently.

My problem is... I bought a new shapeoko 3 xxl machine. Ok, I get it. I can draw a design but what I want to do is take a photo of something, like a boat, and then import it to mt carbide create and have the machine carve/engrave it out? I can find no clue how to do that? Any help appreciated. Thanks. Retired - Captain Chuck

@mikewhetzel8042

6 жыл бұрын

you need to convert the image of the boat into a 2d vector file or a 3d model in order for the CNC software to know how to process the image...unfortunately there isn't a great way to just carve an image...vetric photovcarve works but probably still isn't what you're looking for...I've had limited success with the "trace bitmap" option in vetric aspire, but a true 3d relief model would be the best way to achieve the detail of a real photo, and unfortunately those are usually custom made

Where do you get the designs from?

@DaveVanAntwerp

Жыл бұрын

Royalty free clipart online.

Can I have the dxf of that hummingbird by chance?

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Simply Google hummingbird clip art and you will find this and lots of other options.

Dave, would it be possible for you to send me that bummingbird dxf file? I have watched your video numerous times but my cuts are never working out correctly and i think it is due to the detail in the file i am using thank you so much

@DaveVanAntwerp

6 жыл бұрын

Jeff, there are many hummingbird images available - simply do a google search for hummingbird clip art using the "images" option in the menu. I can assure you the level of detail is not the reason your cuts are not working out correctly. Double check your numbers - 0.20 for the female portion and 0.10 and 0.10 for the male. If those numbers are correct, normally your cuts should come out fine. If you are getting proper cuts for other projects, your machine is functioning properly so that's not the problem. A rigid CNC with tight tolerances does best on V-Cave inlays. I assume you are mirror imaging the male portion and drawing a box around it when you set up your tool paths. Here is a link to a video on V-Carve inlay by Peter Passuelo (CNCNutz). You might want to review his video to see if you find something you didn't pick up in my video. kzread.info/dash/bejne/m4l82sxuc9iYgaQ.html -- Dave

@jsburklow

6 жыл бұрын

thank you sir

I tried it...but I couldn't get sharp edges on inlay part. I divided by two flat depth from pocket but still no sharp edges...I tried simple circle (pocket-inlay) with 90degree vbit...but that inlay isn't sharp to fit to pocket. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong guys? Thx for answers/tips-I'm desperate...

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

I'm wondering if your CNC is rigid enough or if you are getting some deflection. when you do a standard V groove, are the edges sharp? A 90 degree V-bit should work, but I use a 60 degree V-bit. The inlay process is simply a standard V groove for the female portion and a mirrored V groove for the male inlay. Depths are very important. Set the pass depth for your bits at 0.20 inches for both portions of the inlay. The start depth for your female inlay should be 0.0 inches and flat depth should be 0.2 inches. For the male inlay, start depth should be 0.1 and the flat depth should be 0.1 inch. But first check your V grooves and find out why you are not getting sharp edges on V grooves. Until you get sharp edges on your V grooves the inlay process won't work.

@spikeweber

7 жыл бұрын

Yes it is rigid enough. It is brand new one. And yes edges are sharp after standard V groove. I'm starting with 90 but in the future I'll try other like 60 etc... I know that there is something I'm doing wrong with depths... Is there any possibility to get in touch via mail etc to send screenshot of settings of V grooves? :) Thx a lot! spikeweb@seznam.cz

@DaveVanAntwerp

7 жыл бұрын

My suggestion would be to join the Facebook group #CNC ROUTER TIPS and post pictures there. You will get lots of help. I'm in that group and I will respond too. facebook.com/groups/cncroutertips/

@spikeweber

7 жыл бұрын

request sent...thx a lot! Hope I get an answer...

Can we see a video rather than images?

Could you make me a program in Vecrtic Aspire, I'd send you a .dxf, just one for example to study for me? this is a simple detail.

@DaveVanAntwerp

Жыл бұрын

If you follow along step by step you will be able to figure it out, which will be far more benefit to you. The biggest problem will be that my version of Aspire will be different than your version of Aspire, so you would be unable to open the file I sent you. You can do this!

@PSS_1

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@@DaveVanAntwerp would you have your own simple program positive and negative part to analyze? I just want to analyze it because I'll be tired of it for months