Great instructional video, even for novices. Straightforward, clear and concise. Thanks a lot!

Thanks for the background! I'm trying to set the curve right now with the springs and stops. Super helpful!

Awesome explanation!

@V8TV

6 жыл бұрын

Thank you sir!

Excellent video, very well and patiently explained, thank you very much.

Thanks a lot dude

Setting initial timing with a vacuum gauge is a good way to go.

It's not able to anticipate the pick-up impulse. It can only react to the impulse. Setting full advance at idle allows the unit to "see" the impulse and then delay the the switching of the coil primary according to the selected parameters. Nice unit. Too bad I already bought my MSD!

How about using a Vacume gauge to determin proper timing by setting it at the highest vac mark ? I was told to do this by an old timer and it seem's to work well on the pre computer stuff .

Whoaaaa

Igniter vs Points distributor vs HEI I have a 1990 Lincoln Town with the Windsor V8. Looking for tune-up advice, how to get the best fuel efficiency. upgrading does sound like less maintenance but questioning ROI Return On Investment? btw the car has sat for 8 years and running well on warm days. but if I don't let it warm up 20* F or colder and try to drive off after 10 min it seems rough until it gets to operating temp. also after 45 to 1hr idle to op temp. it will kill the motor most of the time when I change gears R or D. I haven't noticed during warmer days dying during gear change but I have only had it for three weeks.

Is it 1-7 on switch 1 @1 and switch 2@ 7?

Whats the best way to hunt max total timing when testing? Will it just stop making power? I don’t want to detonate or pre ignite. I want to be able to identify easily. I am going to be using a msd 6al 2 programmable and locking out mechanical.

@KingJT80

4 жыл бұрын

its kind of test and tune but most HP engines on the street will like more initial than mechanical.. and they like it all in at right around 2000- to 3000 RPM its just playing with it on a dyno really until it stops making power. if initial is too high it will kick back on the starter. Just make sure if you have a non stock engine you get a higher torque starter for that application. one that will turn over your engine with the compression you have because you dont want to be trying to turn over an aftermarket 11:1 engine if thats not what the stock starter was meant for

@Dodgechallengersixpack

4 жыл бұрын

mrhazel Thanks. Yeah im interested in getting my exhaust and wideband installed and fine tuning the jets on the dyno. I guess we can figure it out then. I have a high torque mini starter because of headers. My compression is 9.5:1 and dynamic is around 8:1 with the cam. The MSD has a start feature that retards timing on startup then puts it back to your preset.

@KingJT80

4 жыл бұрын

@@Dodgechallengersixpack yeah thats why I want an MSD e curve when I redo my 302. Gets you all the timing options you could want or need without the need of a CD box

OK, I've got a digital E-Curve dist, both pots are set to 0 right now, redline to 7000 rpm and I've got no spark at all. My dad passed away before finishing the car, but it drove twice for about 7-8 miles, now 0 spark at all and it won't start. Any help would be appreciated! I feel like something is wrong with the distributor. Also has an MSD Blaster 2 coil.

@bootyman234

7 жыл бұрын

Hope you got an answer before now, but it may simply be that your power supply wire to the distributor is dead. Check any applicable fuses and wires and best of luck to you.

@Clint_the_Audio-Photo_Guy

7 жыл бұрын

I haven't. Fuses are fine, power supply wire is brand new, coil is getting power when the ignition is on. I think it's the board on the distributor. I've read about others having the same issues too. Two messages sent to MSD and no response.

@Clint_the_Audio-Photo_Guy

7 жыл бұрын

But thanks for the tip.

@bootyman234

7 жыл бұрын

So she isn't perhaps still under warranty?

@Clint_the_Audio-Photo_Guy

7 жыл бұрын

No she isn't. The distributor only has about 5 miles on it though. The car was never finished, only driven once, and started a few times to move around the garage. Before my dad passed away I promised I'd finish it for him, so I need to get it running. It's a '32 Ford Graffiti coupe. The cap was off of it when I got it, so I know he was already trying to troubleshoot it. In his time he probably bought like 35 MSD distributors for all the cars he built. I feel since this one failed with so little use, that they kind of owe me/him one.

Why not make a video that goes from 5:57 and on. For some of us? Pleese. I'll even bother to watch.

Ok, bare with me here. An old mechanical distributor, 10 degrees Initial, 24 Mechanical for 34 degrees total at ~3,000 engine RPM at Wide Open Throttle and with NO Vacuum Advance. But, at say 60 mph strait level steady state speed "floating" cruise, at 3,000 engine RPM, then the same 10 degrees initial plus the 24 degrees Mechanical for that 34 degrees Total *PLUS* 15 more Degrees Vacuum Advance, so *ALL THREE TOTAL are 49 TOTAL DEGREES.* So... Lock-Out the E-Curve, set TOTAL Timing to 49 Degrees, then set the E-Curve Switches to the desired Curves. ? Does the Locked-Out Total Advance one must set it to *INCLUDE all 3, Initial, "Mechanical", and Vacuum, **_OR_** only *2 things*, Initial plus "Mechanical"* ??? Thank You Kevin.

@KingJT80

26 күн бұрын

dont set it to 49 total. set it to the 34 and use the chart to pick which vacuum advance curve is in it so the dials are set to either 3-4 or 7-4 depending on vacuum levels but you figured it out by now i hope