I've spent nearly the last 2-3 weeks searching for videos to explain timing to me after I put in an electronic ignition in my 67 with a 352. This is the only one to actually explain every step and make it comprehensible.

I timed my 69 f100 with a 390 from this video and had the same problem you guys did. 5 1/2 turns out on the vacuum can and no more knock and pulls hard. Thank you for actual info.

Keep up the good work it's very encouraging to those of us who have Fords! I have a 67 F100 short bed I have to have it ready for my daughter's wedding next summer.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words! We hope you can have the truck in fine form by then.

one of you best shows here

Wow! I came here clueless about vacuum advance and left with a greater understanding of how it functions and its purpose. Thank you guys.

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Another great video and all the best to you and yours Sir !!

This is the first information I've seen on adjusting mechanical vacuum advance I can't wait to check my 71 400

@AutoRestoMod

Жыл бұрын

Glad we could help

Very interesting, Jeff, this was a good one. I appreciate all that you guys have done over the years as they're some of the best automotive videos on KZread. I believe that you're the guy that coined the term, "Restomod" aren't you?

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

No. restomod has been around for a long time. I think either the owner of Mustangs Plus or Jim Smart coined it. I'll have to get them in a room and see who wins that argument.

Thanks for this! Very informative, as usual. 👍

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome

Tried to tune my son's 65 today and would run without vacuum line hooked up, wouldn't even fire above idle with it attached. Vacuum advance screw was screwed in all the way. Backed it out 6.5 turns and runs now. Figured it out because of this video. Thanks a bunch!

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Glad we could help!

Man, I have been having a similar problem on my '72 360. I'm pretty close to doing a full rebuild to fix it. Can't wait to get back home to test this solution!

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

I hope it works a treat!To borrow an Aussie friends phrase.

Thanks guys I'm going to try that with my 59 Thunderbird. The engine is a 352 special but I think everything that you did I will be able to do on mine. My situation is that it fall flat off from idle so it seems like I have to give it a little squirt of the throttle and then it'll start go.

GREAT VIDEO

Just started importing v8 trucks from USA to UK. Great video as we are picking up a lot of knowledge. We have just upgraded a 302 f100 to a max efi 500 system with electronic fuel pump, fans etc so we will be dialing in the timing tomorrow all being well that i can get the engine to fire once i set my rotary correct.

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Very cool!

@Truthseeker19819

3 жыл бұрын

Hi so we have a 1980 windsor 302 block all standard engine cambs etc in a 1950 f100. What should i set initial to vacume to total maximum timing. It is hard to get info here in the UK but your videos are fantastic. The only info i can find is no more than 35 deg total on this specific engine or even 34 deg especially if i get pinging. Ford recommends 6 btdc initial.

good stuff!

Harbor freight timing light! Works like a charm

You guys did a great job explaining this! Would have been nicer with a road test! Awesome!!!!

This helped out a lot! Yall always giving good info, much appreciated...

Tell everyone how to set the total timing for their engine!!! You want the most advanced timing curve your engine will handle without detonating! Disconnect vacuum advance and plug hose. Drive and put your engine under a load by climbing a hill and slightly accelerating and listen closely for pinging. Bump base timing up 2 degrees at a time while climbing a hill each time until you finally hear ping.....now back your base timing down 3 degrees and lock it down! Now plug in your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and start out with a conservative setting and drive listening for ping as you take off from a dead stop and begin accelerating. Again adjust your vacuum canister for more timing a little at a time and drive after each adjustment until you hear audible ping. Now back it down 3 degrees and call it good! Your timing is properly set....now adjust your idle circuits for max vacuum and curb idle on the carb..... Drop in new plugs and drive it for a while and then pull a plug and read it for proper timing and fuel. There are videos that show how to read the plugs for proper timing and proper fuel....

I can really appreciate how much you're doing! If you haven't figured it out by now... You NEED to find a Ported Vacuum Port. It won't be in the usual places - especially on a 4100!! One of the Ports on the Pass Side must be Ported... 😉

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

We got it, thanks!

@CarminesRCTipsandTricks

3 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod Glad you got it figured out! I had a similar problem with my 82 Mustang GT. The Autolite 2100 had ported Vacuum, but none showed up. Only after I took it apart, I found that the port was carbon clogged from the inside!

@trailerparkcryptoking5213

Ай бұрын

Vacuum advance runs off manifold vacuum! Why are you concerned with ported?

Great video. I knew it all except the adjustment on the distributor can adjustment via Allen wrench at 3000 rpm.

And yes always set base timing because that is added 2 centrifugal timing for your total.

I had an idea of what I had to do with my 79 T-Bird but this video was a great help! Unfortunately my AC bracket prevents me from putting an Allen wrench into the can... So Imma have a fun weekend this new years haha

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

Hope you got it sorted.

Thanks to for the video great info you guys helped me alot on my 69 250 390 the vacum pods they make today are junk I think the adjustable ones are the best I had a pertronix billet Distributor and the pod went out at 500 Miles the pertronix 3 you need to pull the dist out and take it apart to change it bad to design . Then I swapped that out for a rebuilt motorcraft the pod went out after 50 miles or so they weren't ajustable I took them apart to see what was going on and off you can see how the pinched the edges when they made it the diaphragm was so thin no wonder it failed the adjustable one seemed better made can't remember were I bought it ..

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

Glad we helped!

On point once again. Great job. I was just had this same conversation the other day with a friend. He has a mild cam in his windsor small block but vacuum is down to about 17" or so at idle. He is having problems with off idle tuning and i was explaining how the stock advance canister is pulling in timing too soon. He didnt know about adjustable canisters or how vacuum advance works. I guess timing has been computer controlled so long that i shouldnt be surprised how many youngsters dont understand how to tune it. One of the few times in life being a gray hair pays off...that and the senior discount at fast food chains😉 ( even though i am way to young to actually get the discount...graying early has saved me a bunch of nickles😁).

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

LOL yeah, this video was one that I needed to do...and I put it off because I'm not that good at this sort of thing.

Helpful to see the process. At 10:59 you mention that your mechanical advance is about 32 to 34 degrees. Did you mean to say that the "total advance" was 32 to 34 degrees? If so, "mechanical advance" would be "20 degrees to 22 degrees (34 minus 12 initial=22 degrees). Really nice engine set up.

Somebody find cam a barbershop!!! LOL. Great video as always. 1st

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

I keep hinting...he keeps ignoring...I swear it's like having kids.

Ran across your video and I think I have the same problem. My vacuum advance is ported off the carb from the factory. I bought a 1973 Mach 1 Mustang with the 351C 2V engine. It runs like crap at 2500-3000 rpm, to the point where it wants to shut off! I can plug the vacuum advance line and it runs a lot better. A difference I see is my vacuum advance doesn't come on until I crack the throttle. One thing I haven't checked is to see if my timing strip on my NEW harmonic balancer is correct. Going to go through your steps, thinking it should help my problem. I'm still not sure about switching to manifold vacuum but I may try it. Thanks!

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

Hope it works. That kind of stuff can be frustrating.

Neat video.. Cheers I'm trying to sort timing on my 1975 mark iv 460bb Just replaced the vacuum advance, and as you mentioned it was set 1/4 turn out from full clockwise.. With a total turns of 13 from left to right, I set it at 7 turns, half way. With differing opinions on setting base timing, ive set it at 14° I not sure if the 460 could do with more or less base timing, and whether I can add more vacuum 🤷‍♂️ Have you guys found what these year model 460s like ? Cheers

Keep in mind not all engines are the same. I live it around 6000 feet of altitude. Some engines won't take this kind of timing. So you have to adjust accordingly.

Am I right this is the same process regardless of make? (Different timing degrees obviously) I’m trying to figure out a SBC with an unknown cam. It’s pulling 10-12 on the vacuum gauge. And this video seemed like the most informative of all Ive seen so far. Still a little confused on how to tell if I need to put a weight kit in the cap, or if I should even run vacuum advance or just leave it plugged.

@ 7: 28 usually a port on the carburetor is ported vacuum , above the throttle plate . Any hook up below the throttle plate is manifold vacuum . I think I understood you to say your using ported hook up to the distributor advance .

@sewing1243

4 жыл бұрын

My understanding of what was said is that carb only has a manifold vacuum port, so with that carb installed you will always have vacuum advance at idle.

This was explained very well. I’m having a spark knock issue on my Ford 302 with MSD ready run distributor. Has a limiting bushing of 21 mechanical and I set base timing at 14. But I did not check total timing. I bet my vacuum canister is way off! So if I set base timing at 12 degrees and then plug in vacuum advance I should be shooting for maybe 18 degrees base at that point at idle? Or 18 at a certain rpm? Also how about spring weight? Has the middle tension springs now. Thank you and I appreciate all of your help you guys give out.

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

I'd look to see what the factory specs are. You'll need to know what your all in is for your application.

@WesternReloader

2 жыл бұрын

I don’t think you want to add timing at idle with vacuum advance. Yes idle is leaner usually but that’s why you set your initial mechanical to cover the low engine speed/leaner mixture, cylinder pressures determine how much timing required. Stock low compression needs more timing than high compression. It’s a matter of correct timing for a given engines burn characteristics. I think vacuum advance only should add timing under light load (think carb throttle blade position=more closed=higher vacuum=leaner/lazier fuel charge that takes longer to propagate flame front, hence the need to advance timing, but not to use vacuum advance at idle. If your engine needs 18 at idle I’m guessing you’re idling way lean or you’re fuel enrichment needs looking at. I’ve got a 302 based 331, 10:1 aluminum heads middle of the road cam. My cylinder pressure on warmed over choke open engine is 165 @ 5000 feet above sea level, it likes 12 initial and 33 by 3000 rpm. Idle AFR is 14.5, WOT 12-12.5 and cruising is 15-15.5

Enjoyed this video! I've got a 66 mustang 289-2v auto and am wondering how close the timing setting is to the 390 in this video. My 66 manual says 6 degrees btdc for base timing but doesn't tell me about max timing. I'm running a 2100 carb with the dist vac tap coming off the front passenger corner of the carb (stock). I run pertronix II ignition with flamethrower II coil. Car seems to run great at 12 degrees base timing and 40 degrees advance at 3000 rpm. Manual says I can go 5 degrees over the recommended 6 degrees for altitude (I'm at 5000 ft ASL). Any insights? Are my numbers good? Could they be different and run even better? Do you have a similar video for a 289-2v auto? Thanks again!

I have a fully stock 1970 429 except for the intake manifold and carburetor. Those are a factory ford spreadbore intake and an edelbrock 1905 carb. On today’s pump gas, what would be good numbers for the timing , mechanical advance and vacuum advance? I have it installed in a 76 f150 4x4 with a 4 speed and 35” tires. Thanks

Did you measure total timing with the vacuum advancer connected?

Thanks Jeff and Cam (and Vinny) for the advice and direction over the years. Greatly appreciated. Quick (and naive) question: with the engine running, when I pull (or plug back in) the hose from the vacuum canister, neither my vacuum gauge reading nor the sound of my engine is affected. (I usually shut the engine off to adjust and then plug back in before restarting.) I saw how this affected the truck's engine when cam did it in the video. Do you suppose that in my case this is a sign that the canister needs replacing or does that have anything to do with my over all timing? The flyweights on the motorcraft distributor are on the 13L slot plus I have 8 BTDC for 34. A month ago I was able to turn the canister screw out to stop the pinging while going uphill but was trying to "get the most out of it" just over the weekend and realized unlike in your video that the engine sound nor the vacuum reading changes (stays at about a steady 19 or 20). Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again and again for helping all of us out.

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

I would do a vacuum test on the module. Simply put a hose on the canister with the cap off and pull a vacuum. if the arm moves, you have a good can and a vacuum leak somewhere else. If you can draw a vacuum, and it feels like you are just pulling air, the canister is ruptured. You'll have to re-tune the engine after the new canister is installed.

@brianjohn7917

3 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod Thanks again. Let me try that as well and see what response I will get out of the canister. A little more info in case someone else is still learning as I am comes from a forum posted response to my question that said, "It sounds like you have your vacuum advance hose connected to the factory-specified "timed spark" or "ported vacuum" port in the carburetor which has no vacuum signal at idle when the throttle plates are closed. This is normal. Some folks will change the location from the "timed spark port to full manifold vacuum to get the benefits of vacuum advance at closed throttle idle and deceleration." -How many times did you mention that in Episode 102/103? Gotta smile. "When the student is ready, the teacher shows up." Thank you!

Does this distributer timing adjustment same as adjusting on my 83 chevy 250 inline 6

I have a question. I’m working on a 1996 f150 5.0 going into a 1987 mustang and I’m going carb. I’m putting in a hei distributor I have it at I believe 10 degrees at tdc but my rotor is not pointing at the where the old one was but it’s close. Would that matter is the since off starting the motor?

hi, many thanks for your videos, did you have done one with a dual points distributor (without vaccum advance) already?

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

We haven't done a dual point. I don't have one here to do the se up on.

Have you guys seen the TDC whistle that Mr. Gasket sells? Screw it in to no. 1 and it whistles on the compression stroke. When the whistling stops, you’re at TDC.

@AutoRestoMod

Жыл бұрын

Yes I have! But I don't have one. We just use the thumb method.

BTW where are y’all at on Bill’s camaro?? I think I saw it in the back ground.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

It comes back into the Que now that we can dump the truck into the yard under it's own power...WHICH was SUPPOSED to happen a couple of weeks ago.

Great vid very informitive for people who are trying to learn about tbe different timming variables , question is why did the total timing change with vacuum ? Is it not supposed to fall away in higher rpms?? back to mexhanical only thanks cam jeff

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

That is a function of the vacuum advance. It adjusts the timing curve, giving better performance (street) and mileage.

@rooster68able

3 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod i understand if its hooked to full manifold then its always pulling timming if it is connected to ported it should not pull timming at idle only under slight load then falls away 0 under both applications

@tmc.318

Жыл бұрын

It's a function of vacuum pulling the advance plates. If he's at high a RPM but not under load there is still a vacuum signal pulling on the can. If he was actually running it under load the vacuum will decrease and if it falls under where they set the can curve it will go to the 34 degrees mechanical only. Full throttle should definitely loose the vacuum can advance.

When I installed a B28 vacuum can on my 70 Z28 due to the orig can only giving me 1* of timing due to my roller camshaft only producing 10-11” of vacuum at idle. I had to make a limiter plate for my vacuum arm to bring down my timing at idle cause it was so high that the engine was idling up and down like a super charger along with black smoke coming out of the tailpipes.

@neorev01

3 жыл бұрын

Im working on tuning a 1969 Z28. Timing is super retarded for the AIR system, runs lean for emissions and there are some things that dont make sense like having two power valves. Currently im trying to figure the best curve. Idling at 2btdc isnt optimal

@neorev01

3 жыл бұрын

I just added a b28 advance because tge one that was on the car would barely move. Started at 8 inches and would open fully until about 15 inches, motor only makes 10 inches! I also modified the carb to change the vacuum port from ported to manifold vacuum without changing the outside appearance

@johnmilner7603

3 жыл бұрын

@@neorev01 the list 4053 for your 69 Z/28 is suppose to have 2 power valves, one for each metering block. Prim jets should be 68 and sec 76. Power valves should be 6.5 in hg. Spark plugs should be AC R43 with a .035 gap.

@neorev01

3 жыл бұрын

@@johnmilner7603 true, but there is no need for a power valve in the secondaries unless youre going to regularly cruise with the secondaries constantly open and want to get better gas mileage under those conditions. 11 inches of vacuum requires 5.5 power valves to operate correctly. R43 plugs foul, the hotter r45 plugs work better for regular driving. 68 is too small, 72 works better. 2 degrees intial timing is too late, im aiming for 12-16 instead.

@johnmilner7603

3 жыл бұрын

@@neorev01 I tried different plug heat ranges and brands and R45 was too hot that the fuel burnt and flashed too fast on the plug. Holley’s old rule of thumb on the PV was 2 numbers lower than your idle vacuum reading, now it’s 1/2 to cover their behind. What works for me is jetting 68/76, 5.0 for both PV and 16* initial timing (36* total). I’m out in the Country and hardly ever drive at 30 mph. I’m mostly at 50 or 50+ mph and oddly at times at 40 mph. In order to keep plugs clean, they need to reach self cleaning temperatures and a few full throttle hits through the gears or they will foul no matter what you use. This works for me. Good luck with your tune.

Why would you choose manifold vs ported vacuum?

13:21 is that the vacuum can that is attached to the distributor?

If the dizzy were recurved for less mechanical advance, you could have left the vacuum can at full 10 degrees advance and run more initial. Engines love 50 degrees at cruise, but it's too much for wide-open throttle under a load.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

I wanted to keep it simple, something that anyone could handle. We start going in and recurving a distributor and the beginner might not try it. We might go into recurving the mechanical at a later date.

@Milner62

5 жыл бұрын

That's what I am planning on doing for my 306 build. I got a recurve kit planning on recurving the stock smog era DSII dist to be a bit more streetable with a non emission based build. Havent done it before but hopefully before I get to that stage there is a video on this page by then.

@Thirdgen83

5 жыл бұрын

The DS-II I had, had 36 degrees of advance in the centrifugal, so when I ran 12 initial, I was at 48, not even including the vacuum advance.I had it recurved to 26, which put it at 38 with 12 initial.

@Milner62

5 жыл бұрын

@@Thirdgen83, haven't even checked mine. I got a brand new cardone dist with a steel gear to be drop in for my roller 306 short block I will be using. not sure what I will be setting my timing at. My current smog 302 I pushed up to 12* initial timing but factory spec going form memory is just 8* initial. Im tempted to do this as well on the new engine but my big thing is going from the 2100 autolite carb to a summit 600 cfm 4V carb based off the 4100 series, it has a timed vacuum port for the dist. Not sure if I want to run that as my smog 302 ran dead smooth with manifold vacuum but switching to ported the engine ran horrible and no tuning could get it to run smooth. In looking at the instructions with the tune up kit I got, I am thinking of setting up my all in by 3,000 rpm even though the paperwork recommends 2,500 rpm. This is a truck and I am not sure if I want full mechanical/vacuum advance when on the highway between 60 and 75 mph.

My 73 302 runs like a Swiss watch, smooth, jumps out of the hole when given throttle, but when idling it smells way too rich for me, and I put a brand new carb on it, I did not mess with the metering screws, I set my timing by ear, in the van, someone has to crawl under to put the timing light on it, you turn from inside, I converted from points to pertronix years ago, added an Accell coil, removing the ballast resistor wire, sending full 12 volts to ignition.

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

That's how you do it!

@NeverEnoughPyro40

3 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod Except they should really be using a timing light! Advancing your base timing by as little as 4° to 5° can actually make some cars almost a 1/2 second faster in the quarter mile! And do you really think the human ear can tell the difference between a few degrees?

Hey guys that actron tool has a tach, dua.

How do you wire in a tac under the hood?

What would you do different If you were running a mechanical advance like in my msd distributor?

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Makes things clunkier. You can only get so much mechanical advance and the distributor is "dumb" it only has that to work from. I might go in and save the pennies to get a vacuum advance distributor if it we me. The 390 is WAY happier with the vacuum.

@frankevans6584

4 жыл бұрын

Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I don’t know about distributors. You mean if one has a vacuum on their distributor, there is no mechanical advance? I’m talking about a ‘77 304 v8 in my ‘81 Jeep cj5 with ford distributor and BID ignition

How do I know how much vacuum advance I should have? I have a Chevy 350. My understanding is at idle I should be about 12° and about 35° total. Does that include vacuum? Or is that just mechanical? If it doesn’t then how much should my vacuum add?

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

The 35 is with vacuum. If you hear pinging, you have too much.

The canister at manifold vacuum should have no effect going up hills under stress..there should be little vacuum and only mechanical at that point. Most people leave vacuum advance out of total timing because its just effects idle and cruising under no stress.

I’m lost like a chicken without a head, lol I’m dealing with a 75 mustang with the v6 and a aftermarket carburetor that has no name nowhere and as soon you start driving and getting on the gas if starting to going flat on his face dead sputtering and all that till it’s dead I put the mark of the damper with the T line of the block and the distributor line up to the #1 plug I had to move it all the way forward to get better results but I’m lost lost lost

For years I've used a radish to tune my 47 Bùìcķ Cyst...thanks for the video...now I gotta get out of this dating harness...

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

LOL

I have a Blueprint "Ford" 302. I just took it to 3000 rpm, and with my timing light, mechanical advance was around 20*, using the dial to get back to the basic timing... Then I read they (The engine builder) wants me to test at 3500 rpm... Kind of unnerving to lean over the engine at that rpm, especially since my car had a recall back when it was much newer, about jumping into reverse when idling. That would be bad enough without being 3500 rpm. I also don't have a helper to hold the throttle at 3500 while I look at it. They want 32-34* at 3500, which if it's 20* at 3000, I am not sure that's going to make it... I noticed the distributor has two different spring weights on the mechanical weights.. I have read that it's normal for "tuning" the mechanical advance, sometimes. SHould I change the heavier spring to the next lightest?

@Bikedueder

7 ай бұрын

They (Engine builder) ALSO says to set total timing first?? That is the most backwards thing I have ever heard. In other words rev the engine up to 3500 rpm, set 34 degrees on the balancer to the timing pointer, and tighten the distributor. If either one of the advances is not set correctly, you're already in the hole IMHO.

@Bikedueder

7 ай бұрын

Okay, just checked my vacuum can on my distributor. It was 14 turns pretty much stop to stop, and was 2.5-3 from all the way clockwise. I turned it to about 7 turns, the middle, and it seems to be a little smoother off idle, and didn't do the 1500 rpm shake/miss it was doing before. It still chuffs when you quickly hit the throttle, but I have a new 35 squirter on the way. It has the stock 31 at the moment. If it doesn't fix it, then I guess I need to keep searching, and can put the 31 back in it, and get the carb looked at... Overall though, it seems smoother at part throttle.

Bosch 140 sander

Too get the full use of the advance it should be ported vacuum.

@FACEBOOKS-WBDS

4 жыл бұрын

You guys did an awesome job on explianing how.....but, didn't explain why it's important

No need to set initial timing first. Just set total advance. Set your timing back dial between 34* - 36* then rev to 3000 rpm, turn distributor until your line on the harmonic balancer is at 0.

@mell3109

2 жыл бұрын

What happens if your total timing was very high and when you turn the distributor back you end up ATDC? Will you not have starting issues

So what you're telling me is that if I have a MSD ignition with the vacuum advance and 6 AL ignition box I don't need to do what you just did?

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Not what we're telling you at all. Check it. Make SURE that your all in is good. The only thing that you don't have in the scenario is a points ignition.

@trkinwithmikey

5 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod ok thx

😱😱

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

😍

Where do you connect the tachometer? Where are you hooking up your vacuum gauge? Can you guys just turn the engine over with a ratchet? That the 2nd time I’ve seen Cam get shocked

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Why use a ratchet? I like seeing Cam get shocked. Tach hooks up according to the instructions that come with the cam. Usually black to ground, green to negative on the coil, and red would go to switched 12 or a dash light circuit. Obviously we aren't using the red wire for the dash light. The vacuum gauge hooks to the intake manifold vacuum tree on the intake or firewall.

What's the size of that little hex?

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

3/32nds. Sorry it ook a bit, I had to dig it out of the box and "find" it via testing.

Confused. 40° WTH you talking about? And whats the suction on #1 about? Its always been crank till finger blows out, turn balancer to 6°Tdc, check rotor points to #1 cylinder, adjust carb screws and idle screw. Where did you attach the vacuum on manifold. And where on port? Confusing stuff. I gave a cold start and a dead spot at excelleration. Cant seem to clear it out.

@AutoRestoMod

Жыл бұрын

Sorry we confused you

Wait you turn the timing with a screw driver?

@AutoRestoMod

10 ай бұрын

No you turn the idle mixture screws to effect idle richness.

Let me connect this here jumper to the coil and then touch the other end of the lead to the ⚡️⚡️⚡️oops I got electrical shock!!!lol yeah that’s how electricity work junior.

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

Lawd, if you ain't never been shocked working in a car...you ain't worked on a car. 🤣🤣🤣

@alshotrodgarage4779

4 жыл бұрын

Autorestomod Manic Mechanic Gasoline Media I was raised around cars! At 8 years of age I started working at gramps auto body shop sweeping the floor and taking out the trash etc...my first car was a 1966 mustang convert. Last week I installed a timing chain on my 69 Pontiac firebird... Today I bought a 5.3 LS engine to build this winter so you could say I have worked on a car or 2 or couple hundred... Just be careful when letting jr show us how it’s done is all I’m saying, electricity is to be respected!!!😂😂😂

Watched your points video, but you guys never showed how to use the dwell meter

@johnmilner7603

5 жыл бұрын

Jay Con Connect the red + lead of the meter to the - side of the coil and the black meter lead to a ground. Start engine, turn the meter to dwell and it should be at 30. Used points 28. If your not where you want to be then with an allen key, turn clockwise to decrease dwell and counterclockwise for more dwell. Then set your timing. If you have a 6 cyl, with engine turned OFF, you need to pop off the dist cap and using a screwdriver turn the adjustment screw clockwise to close points for less dwell or counterclockwise to increase dwell.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

Keep it up John and I will hire you to answer tech questions on here! 🤔👍

@johnmilner7603

5 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod Ya know when your a gear head and know a few things or two, you can't help but comment. Been a GH since 1973. Wow, time flies.

@johnmilner7603

5 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod When you've been a gear head since 1973, it's hard to resist.

I have a 4 x 4 truck 400 small block fresh motor 350 Turbo I'm always having trouble deciding whether I want to tune it to ported or full vacuum it's pretty much a stock warmed-over so much misleading information

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

Id'go with what ever works best. Try both. Tune for it. See what offers the best "brain" for your car. If the distributors is aftermarket, contact their tech line and see which they like for you to use.

Videos are great but audio is hard to understand sometimes how about adding close captioning?

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry Joe, I completely understand. shortly after this video we go lapel mics to help that. We're now 390 videos beyond that one.

You aimed for 40 degrees... but what if I don't have a spec to aim at??

@AutoRestoMod

Жыл бұрын

All engines have specifications for Max advance on the distributor.

You know they do make a top dead center whistle just for that purpose...

@AutoRestoMod

3 жыл бұрын

Which most of us have zero of. And, this way you have TWO ways.

you need ported vacuum not 15 in at idle. should be zero at idle.. at least most engines. my 59 352 fe

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

It is really up to the vacuum can type.

So why not just lock the distributor out and set it at 40

@AutoRestoMod

4 ай бұрын

Because the vacuum advance is the brains of your car.

connect vacuum advance to ported vacuum on carb and problem will go away.

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

Sometimes. It depends on the vacuum modulator

Isn't 40 degrees advance a little to much?

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

We will see. There will be real world tests that need to be done. I think it might be a little too much timing. But as we said, until we get it on the street we won't know.

@johnmilner7603

5 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod Chevy SB V8's like 36*.

@Milner62

5 жыл бұрын

Fords typically like 32 - 34 degrees of total advance. Not sure about the big blocks I think they are the same.

@AutoRestoMod

5 жыл бұрын

We did testing this weekend and it liked it. BUT we think that the carburetor might be too rich.

@rogermanygoats7891

4 жыл бұрын

@@AutoRestoMod was the canisters vacuum hose be unplug to check total advance, you had your vacuum still plugged in when you checked total advance.

Why is he screaming, Wow!!!

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

WOW!!!

😂😢

Good video…but maybe focus on what your doing explain quickly and clearly what you are doing.

That was no where near being accurate checking the balancer for TDC

@AutoRestoMod

Жыл бұрын

Ok.

Why are you teaching people to use the starter instead of turning the engine over BY HAND to find too dead center ?? 🙃🙃

@AutoRestoMod

2 жыл бұрын

Cause I'm lazy.

Amateurs.

@AutoRestoMod

4 жыл бұрын

We all are aren't we...even you.

@douglorimer5985

4 жыл бұрын

Maybe I was a bit to harsh.I apologise. I grew up as a tune tech,s son in a Ford dealership. First of all one must understand what's the vacuum advance was invented as and is 4. And when they come along with ported vacuum why did they do that? These are two very important questions, and when answered, applied to the adjustment of the centrifical weights something you're calling mechanical advance I believe, and of course the infinite adjustment of the original Ford distributor Whole New World will be in front of you. The first thing I like to do is throw away mypoints. And install the duraspark Blue Chip electronic ignition genuine Ford off the shelf parts.

@douglorimer5985

4 жыл бұрын

All my engines are set up old school, with the exception of the 1976 duraspark 2 ignition. I reach into the distributor and substitute the heavy centrifugal spring with another light one out of another distributor. This will bring in all of your centrifical timing bar around 1200 RPM. The upper distributor shaft that your rotor rides on can be replaced from distributor do a different distributor most of these are different from engine to engine and can also be put in 180 degrees from where they started. So you can bring in all your time in quicker eliminating any hesitation and limiting the total timing bye the gap cut in this upper distributor shaft. What are the achieved usually around 42 total timing, that's what I adjust the vacuum advance and going down the road under kruis conditions could have as much as 60 degrees advance. The vacuum advance is a mileage device. I can't know this for certain holding a Ford engineer could confirm what I believe but I believe ported vacuum was introduced into a two-stage diaphragm of the vacuum advance to overcome the lack of centrifugal timing in the distributor built into the distributor to accommodate the new gasoline we had in the early seventies. This is a very interesting subject but once you read up on this get in and start adjusting these parts, in my opinion you can buy over the counter great Factory components Anna just the timing infinitely.

There you go again making another video about carburetors and timing and you don't show how to hook up the meter to the vehicle what good does it to do if someone doesn't know how to hook up the meter to the vehicle what to hook it to you're only telling half the story The only putting out half of the video what's wrong with you people show everybody how you hook up the meters where you hook them up to it may be explained why you hook up up there don't just made it already hooked up no one sees nothing they don't know nothing does a lot of good to explain how to do something and you don't explain or show how to hook up the meter to get the results that you need to get when you can't get any results cuz you don't know how to hook up the meter

@austech360

3 жыл бұрын

They don't show you because some meter makers have different directions to hook them up. Follow manufacture directions.

@cameronb76

2 жыл бұрын

Holy Run-on-sentence, Batman.... Punctuation is everyone's friend😉

there you go again doing a halfway job of a video you're trying to tell people how to find top dead center on a number one plug and you start out good but when you go to use a jumper wire that's where you screw up what do you hooking it to your cooking it to what the solenoid on the starter how many screws and bolts on the back of a starter oh I don't know I think mine has two or three bolts coming off the starter which one is it that you hook to wire up to why can't you guys do a complete video I don't understand this so I'm just supposed to experiment and and touch each one until it tries to turn the engine over I don't know if one of those is the wrong one and what if I burn up the solenoid trying to do it this is the whole point if you're going to do a video do it properly do it professionally so you're giving out the right ad Vice and not leaving out very important information

@austech360

3 жыл бұрын

I had a stroke reading this. If you don't understand the electrical system of a car or how the relays and solenoids work.. you probably shouldn't mess with timing. As it is an electrical system too.