I've been using Upol Raptor Liner now for the past three years on the XJ. Mostly on key areas that see wear and impact from forest roads or offroad abuse. Its a durable bedliner paint that offers tough protection and it works well on DIY fabrications for 4wds to give a professional finish and long lasting protection. Do the claims really stack up to the reality though with this paint and how does it deal with repeated impacts and abrasion. I personally love Raptor paint but it has to be said that it has its weaknesses and should not be seen as a blanket solution for all areas of a vehicle. Its strengths can be its weaknesses wen it comes to impact resistance over thinner metals. Thanks for watching.

@Jamesmark72

5 ай бұрын

It holds up great against hail.

My biggest suggestion...get the upol vari-nozzle gun & toss the one that it comes with in the trash. The vari-nozzle spray gun is a game changer. You can dial in desired texture ...from coarse to ultra fine like a sand paper finish & get consistent results. Another suggestion is don't spray the bottom of the bottle. Toss the last 10% in the trash and mix a new bottle. Bottom of the bottle doesn't shoot as smooth & tends to gunk up & splatter.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Appreciate the advice. I thought about that vary nozzle gun but just went for the shiltz style one. Good tip on the bottom of the bottle also! Appreciate the comment and thanks for watching

I totally agree with your observations about Raptor. I'v seen a lot of people mention Raptor does flake off sharp edges, like the edges of doors, bonnets. That problem can be reduced with acid etch primer on those sharp edges. The biggest mistake people seem to make is not carrying the Raptor around the inside edge of the doors (by about an inch), If you go much further than an inch the door seal wont create a proper seal on the textured surface. Spraying the inside and outside of the door edge puts a slightly thicker coating right on the sharp edge. Then the Raptor bridges around the sharp edge. It will always struggle to bond to bare metal. So the key is to paint it first, with a strong base paint/primer. Two part plastic primer for bumpers and other plastic trim is the way to go before any type of paint or textured application.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty happy with it as a whole. I've gone around my doors about two inches in parts so the raptor wraps around and it's help up good. I think most paint will chip with a sharp screw driver but then that's kind of brutal. I guess I will try to sand the plastic and use the two part epoxy primer this time, see how it goes. Thanks for the information and comment!

We love where we RaptorLined the lower parts of our doors on our XJ. However we just found where a small part of rust is showing through. So we need to address that very soon. Great information! ❤️🐞

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I'm sure it's nothing, you have a pretty clean XJ by the sounds of it. Good that the raptor is going well though! Thanks again for watching and look forward to the next video.

@15farcry

2 жыл бұрын

That rust that's showing through the lower portions of your doors is coming from the inside. You need to spray some oil based coating inside you doors to stop that.

@GoatOffroad

2 жыл бұрын

@@15farcry - Thanks for the tip. We had previously taken the door panel off and sprayed Fluid Film inside the door. We definitely need to pull it off again and investigate further!

1:00 thanks for making me feel a little better about taking so long to get mine finished 😉

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

No worries. Slowly does it!

i looked for a ton of people that have lived with POR15 for a long time. you can find so many videos from people who have just used POR15 or sales people and they say its great. just like you look for people who have lived with it for a few years. what you will find is the same problem. the paint is so hard, epoxy is hard, once you get a chip it rusts underneath. i would suggest regular paints without a hardner. zinc paint for really important areas, drying oils are the best solution from a bit of experience. i have also used some treatments for rust that convert it. was surprised by results. just a basic phosphorus solution. in the process of now. if you dont have time before winters, just spray the whole under side with fluid film. ive had amazing results with that.

Just found your videos, really enjoying the detail you put into your build. I wanted to share with you a product I used on my XJ. A shop originally sprayed my ARB front bumper with a product called Superliner about 15 years ago. I had them do the body of the bumper with the bedliner, and left the bull bar powdercoated. As I lived in an area that didn't salt the roads, but used volcanic cinder rock for traction, the powder coat is a bit hammered. However , the urethane is still amazing, still flexible and still black. My 13 year old son and I sprayed my wheelwells,rockers ,lower doors, jcr rear bumper and the roof gutters as a winter project 2 years ago. Lots of prep but actually really easy to work with. Low cost because you spray with a drywall texture gun($ 25 USD) that you can throw away when you're finished, if you want. The gravel Forest Service Roads do no damage to the wheel wells because the product is so flexible. This stuff is much cheaper to buy if you order decent quantities, so not as convenient as Raptor liner for little detail work. Make no mistake, I'm not saying the 15 yr old liner looks like the newer stuff, but it has not chalked and it is still gloss after all those yrs of our high elevation UV exposure. I can't imagine what it would look like if protected (garaged). Check it out. By the way , I am doing the same otk steering /brake swap you just did, only I have locking hubs not unit bearings. You put my mind at ease over a few of the steps ,though, thanks!

Raptor liner is a great product. no scratches anymore.

Thanks to taking time to make this very extensive go through with Raptor. I just bought some of this stuff to give my Defender a touch up. It will certainly make me avoid doing some stupid failures. Keep up the good work !

Great video and information. I am getting ready to repaint my xj so this was great info for me. I bought roll on raptor liner for my roof and some spray for touch up painting. I was going to use por 15 for my undercoating and my interior floor. Than just a semi-gloss for the body. I have watched your videos on rust proofing and tips and tricks to help make smart decisions for my xj. Thank you for the videos and all the work you put in to build your jeep. Keep it up!

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

That sounds like a solid combination to be honest. A mate of mine just sent me a photo of a bottle of POR metal prep. Like acid etch basically. Looks like the way to go. I would be inclined to use that on everything I wanted to paint as it's going to etch the metal prior to primer and paint. Maybe look into it first though. I hope it all goes well and thanks for watching!

@theSvrh

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness yea, i have a combination of the metal prep, weld through primer, rust neutralizer, etch primer etc. Its not a job i want to do often and i live in similar a climate as you so the more i do now the better. I am replacing the floor panel on the passenger side which is the reason i am going all in and doing it the best i can.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

@@theSvrh I can totally relate to that. Its not a fun job and it's time consuming but better to go all in once and then you get many more years out of it all before any touch up work.

OK, I watched 3 of your vids. I finally gave in & subscribed! You do very good work, & you're good at explaining what you do, and a real big plus - no crappy music!

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Appreciate you subscribing and the feedback. I cant say I like constant music either. Anyway hope you like what's to come and thanks for watching

Hi Mike. So my Xj has line x coating over most of it. All the coating was done at a facility. The company is called Tyro. It’s the same as line x. Just a different company name. Here is what I have found/know about it. It sticks best to new paint. The area to be painted gets sanded with around 180 grit. It does not bond to surfaces that have just been primed or are rusty in any way. It will make rust worse. I know this because I have had to have some areas re done. The line x tore off in one big area. Front fender. Had to have that fender finish painted. Then sanded to make sure the line x stuck good. It won’t stick to previously coated areas of do it yourself bed lines. I had to strip my entire roof of my xj with a chisel and a sander over two days before it could be sprayed with line x. It won’t stick to bare metal unless it’s been sand blasted first. I just had my front bumper baked in an oven. Then sand blasted to get the failing powder coating off. Then it was fully encapsulated with line x. All the line x on my Jeep is nearly one 1/8 thick. It goes on hot at 180 degrees in what I can only describe as a canyon lol. Then I had all areas top coated with a semi gloss black paint. It goes on immediately so it bonds to the hot plastic line x. So it’s not paint adhesion holding the paint in place. If line x is not top coated like this. The suns uv rays makes it fade and go grey in no time at all. Mine has been on the Jeep for 6+ years. Not a scratch or a chip. But line x. When coated with a top coat of paint comes at a price. To get my front bumper blasted. And coated in line x with top paint was around $700CAD. 😭 the bumper cost that much new. But it’s the only finish that will stand up to gravel roads and road salt which we have lots of here in Calgary. I have the front grill/ rear bumper/roof and 3/4 up there sides on my xj done. That has cost me around $3000CAD over the years as I did not do it all at once. But hey. It looks the same as the day it went on. To have the whole xj done completely I was quoted $5000 and that was 6years ago! Some people get full size trucks done over here. It’s a 10k 🤑! 😦

@russjowett2137

2 жыл бұрын

Cannon not canyon lol

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Wow, thank you for the detailed explanation. I have no experience with Line X but its clearly a very different product to most bed liners. So it's basically like a plastic thats painted to help protect it from uv. It sounds pretty cool and obviously it's reflected in the price and the quality of the finished product. Very interesting to hear about it all and what's involved. Thanks for watching and for the comment!

A very good video my friend. I felt that it was a fair and honest depiction of the product for general diy use and I didn't feel as if I was watching an advertisement or being sold something. Well done. Really like your workshop/paintbooth.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Appreciate that, I'm both disappointed and satisfied with raptor. Its good but I guess the issues are my own expectations and bad application. The paint booth will hopefully work lol!

Awesome video man, looking for some kind of solution to the lower half of my truck, and this helped a bunch…thanks for the upload..:)

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it can help and appreciate you watching!

The raptor is hard to brake at flat surface but as you say in corners and “hides” it’s not good after some years. Good video and info you give Mike 👌🏽💪🏽 Keep on going ✅🤠

This is a great explanation and description. I'm always excited to see another cherokee video from you, I think we have similar interests when it comes to working on jeeps. We talked a little in the comments section previously about bedliners I mentioned the trouble I've had with bedliner and rust. Something you might be interested in is steel-it paint, it's weldable and seems extremely durable especially for a rattle can which I've been using, you can also spray it with a paint gun. It applies directly to metal. Usually I use the upol 2 weld through primer for things that can't be painted after welding like frame stiffeners but im considering switching to steel-it in those situations I think it might offer better protection against corrosion it welds very nicely I was surprised and it goes a lot further than the upol 2. It's expensive but it really does work awesome definitely worth a try. You mentioned por15. I've researched por15 alot and I think it's a great product if applied correctly but I think it might have similar consequences as bedliner if water does get underneath it and water always finds a way eventually. After everything I've been though with rust and using different products my favorite solution is seam sealer in all the right places and quality paint type products and cavity wax. Then of course maintenance and staying on top of things. I am staying away from any rubberized coatings or encapsulating type products. I do like powder coat though.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

It was your original comment that inspired me to make this video. I think we have had the same experiences with bed liners and given the jeep is awaiting paint I thought it a good opportunity to show its pros and cons. I do like raptor liner but I have certainly come to realise that its best applied over a flat surface with no but welds or seams that water can pass between. Water just gets stuck otherwise and the bed liner begins to lift. I have not heard of Steel-it paint, I will look that up as it sounds pretty good. I use Upol Weld through primer and hopefully its doing its job, but who knows. Those encapsulation products are the worst. I remember on my first jeep it was recommended to me to use Shiltz. Its like a rubber basically that's very thick and has no penetration. It can also sag and basically trap water once damaged. It always seems to be a trial and error process with these things and with such consequence and work when you get it wrong. I've been happy with Dinitrol as a wax protection and cavity protection. It actually seems to work but still I maintain the vehicle much like yourself. Lets hop my next round of painting is not waste of time. Thanks for watching and for the comment

100% agree on allowing undersides ( & channels & anywhere that can hold water ) to dry out rather than coat with, well, whatever product it might be. And having large drainage holes/channels so that dirt and grit can be sloshed out and away, and relatively cheap sacrificial materials such as the aluminium armour you put under your sills - it's light, doesn't rust, happily takes all the stones thrown up at it, and a lot cheaper and easier to replace than sills :) And waxes where useful too, yes; All good advice in this vid! :) Does your front bumper even need Raptor..? I guess it's rare you're following close behind other vehicles. If so maybe consider just spraying the front of it then leave the rest and just smother with marine grease or something. I think whatever people do the main thing is regularly inspecting the undersides, wheel arches, sills etc. It's not a nice job without a lift or pit but if they can find a friendly garage where they can hire use of a lift on a weekend, twice a year maybe, they can get a really good look; best done when it's rainy (all the time in Britain heh) so folks in dry climates should use a hose (not a pressure washer) all over the undersides first. A bit oldschool perhaps, just the way I learned when I was young :)

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I think that's the key like you say, drainage and a thin coat of wax in channels seems to do the trick. I mainly did the bumper for the looks lol. I got the Raptor bug and started spraying everything even the plates in the kitchen ;) I think the issue with the bumper was my prep work to be honest, or the original powder coat. I've sprayed over powder coat before with no issues but perhaps a very heavy key is needed or a better primer. The jeeps totally masked off now ready for spraying, i;m in my own garage this time so the benefit is time and temperature. I will make sure the prep is s good to try and stop any surprises. I twice year inspection is a good shout, not fun on the floor but its not too bad with the lifted Jeep. Thanks again for watching and for the comment! Take care mate

It would be interesting to find out if you added some flexible paint additive to the raptor, would that improve the chip resistance? Also por15 is basically like a thin powder coat, it's great when it's intact, but when it fails it can cause more problems.

Well that was a very timely video. Yvette and I are looking to buy a Land Rover 110 from a friend this weekend and the paintwork is very poor. Looking at our options we are considering a full raptor re-spray for the body panels and a waxoil for the chassis and under body. I've seen other vehicles with Raptor applied on the under body and inner arches but because those areas are susceptible to stone chips they have corroded under the product which is why we're thinking of a flexible waxoil product for the underbody. Really looking forward to the next video.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I think raptor is great over the panels and definitely a wax under the Land Rover to save it from rusting more. I think the old Waxoyl is good but your better off getting the Dinitrol kit specifically for Land Rovers off of ebay. Its a much better product as the 3125 cavity was penetrates dirt and rust displacing water. Its supposedly able to stop rust for reacting and spreading. It seems to work from my experience anyway and I've used it in the doors, box sections and frame with good results. Thanks for watching and best of luck on the purchase

Thanks!

timely video .. i was going to raptor my wheel-arches , back to the drawing board

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I would definitely avoid that lol. Sorry to be the bringer of bad news. I'm not sure where you live but Carplan Tetroseal is absolutely fantastic for wheel arch protection.

@888johnmac

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness i'm in scotland .. given the climate here , there are plenty of options

I’m torn between using raptor liner on the floor of my 1996 xj or using a heavy duty farm and implement paint. I’m worried about the raptor cracking and trapping water against the floor but also want something tough and abrasion resistant. What’s your experience long term with the raptor on the floor of your jeep? Thanks, Cole

Hello Mike ! Good video as always ;) Which tools brand would you recommend to begin in mechanic ? For basic maintenance

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

My first propper socket set was a Halfords Professional set which apparently are made by Snap-on. I still have and use that set and it's about 10 years old now. There are lots of brands though that are just as good. Makita, Bahco are two brands here in Europe. I tend to just add stuff to my original kit now so I'm not too clued up on international equivalents. I think Snap-on take the biscuit as one of the best.

It sounds like everything you didn't use the epoxy primer on first came out poorly. Unless I've missed something? Maybe adhesion promoter should be used under the epoxy primer for bare metal rather than the bedliner? Your video is very helpful and has certainly made me rethink using Raptor where I was planning to use it, but now I'm getting the impression that primer is key.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

10 ай бұрын

I used Acid Etch 8 and Raptors 2 part Epoxy Primer with surface degreasing and keying depending on the application.

Great watch, thanks for the information. I need to somehow cover my front wheel wells on my own xj, the rubber was missing when I bough it. Would you recommend using an undercoat of some sort (the one in one of your precious videos that you recommended I could not find here in the states). Or should I buy new rubber peices?

@north.by.northeast

2 жыл бұрын

Hi. Mike will have his own answrer of course but I'd say first inspect your wheel wells thoroughly before doing anything. Once all is good then use a wax or marine grease, then your new plastic (or rubber?) inners but make sure there's a good gap between them and the inside of the wells so water and muck etc. can drain away, and fit the inners so they can be relatively easily removed for future inspections. If you were to use a bedliner and water got through somehow, from a chip or from some other place, you might not see the rust until it's too late because a strong liner will act as a structure while rust eats away behind the scenes - preventative action to reduce or remove the need for corrective action :)

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Like what Mr North says. Get hold of some original liners from ebay or somewhere. Clean the wheel well first and spray some dinitrol 3125 over it all then apply some dinitrol 4941 over that as a heavier protection, then mount the plastic liner once dried. You can do like Mr N says and mount it so there is a gap. That's like the icing on the cake because the water and dirt don't get stuck between the liber or protection.

I have a few different parts of my old truck with 2 years wear on POR15. It seems pretty temperamental about metal prep. There's areas I know I cleaned, but apparently not quite as well, where the POR is chipping off in areas like cheap paint. The metal likely still had some oil, wax, or similar on it in a few areas, because on most of the part it honestly acts like it's part of the metal... I know this because due to the flaking areas I decided to sand and recoat the entire part due to the spots that were chipping. I assumed most all of it was compromised. Using a grinder and flap disc I had to sand entirely through the POR all the way to the metal, and it was a pain in the a$$! It never started to flake, even when it was micro thin and I was almost to the metal. Tried to scrape the edges next to that once I hit metal and nothing. So with the right prep it's insane how well it holds itself to the steel. Note: in direct UV it starts to turn Grey and the colors aren't UV resistant either, but it says that on the can. It weather's so bad in the sun that I wonder if that would cause it to be compromised. I always spray a coating over it if it's a direct sunlight part. I've heard of a lot of people having success coating with POR15, scratching it up to dull it, then raptor lining it. I'm about to try this in the interior of my XJ, and CJ-7. The CJ already has the POR coat, so we'll see how that goes.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Appreciate the details on POR15. I've never used it but heard good things so its interesting to hear how it bonds to metal so well with the right prep. I think using POR then spraying raptor or other paint over the top is a solid barrier for any chassis or vehicle restoration. If its that good then it's worth the money.

@2S1L3NT

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Haha, if you buy some you'll know how well it bonds, likely when you first try to use it. Half the lids to the cans are so stuck that you have to cut them open. I get the kits with 6 small cans because of that. And if after you use it, if you replace the lid without getting every spec of the product off, the next time you try to use it you will not get that lid off. It's pretty crazy stuff.

@johndodoro991

Жыл бұрын

I dont and wont use POR15 , i use Hempel 45880 epoxy , same material but only $130 AU for a 5 lt unit

This is a great build and some great info!!!! What fenders are you running? I am looking are getting a set for my wife's XJ?🤘🤘🤘🤘

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Appreciate that! They are some that I fabricated about a year ago. I've got two videos on how to make them if your interested.

@jdsrcs8061

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness I will look them up!!! Subbed

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for subscribing!

Do you know if upol makes a flex additive for raptor liner, or if anyone has ever tried a flex additive like you add to paint for bumpers and flexible surfaces? It could help reduce the chipping and not compromise the over all integrity of the raptor liner. This is really great work! Thank you for this review of raptor liner, no one else is taking the time to really break down important details like this.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I'm honestly not sure. It would be good if there was something just to make it a bit softer. So it's more like a plastic paint. It just very brittle after it's cured. I think it works great on body panels and armour, but bad on flexible items or things that take repeated impact. I'm glad the video can help. I honestly wasn't going to make it because I just thought it was a boarding video but its the kind of stuff I wish I had known before I spent all the money and time on paint. Thanks for watching

@666Necropsy

2 жыл бұрын

wouldnt you just add less hardner then?

@tricky4g63

2 жыл бұрын

@@666Necropsy I'm not sure if that would work I dont have any experience working with raptor liner yet. But it could work theoretically.

what kind of radiator is that? looks cool

@WorkshoptoWilderness

Жыл бұрын

Its an intercooler at the front. It cools down the charge gas from the turbo charger to make some more power for the diesel engine

Any tips on how to remove raptor liner from plastic? A simple sanding maybe? Or do chemicals need to be used?

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Sadly sanding is how I do it. Takes ages. I've tired chemicals but it generally trashes the plastic

@kylebeach2316

Жыл бұрын

If you use an aggressive sand paper with a battery operated sander the raptor liner should come off but it may take a while if the liner was prepped properly

POR 15 is amazing def have to do the metal prep u have to keep it wet for 15 minutes then rinse with water it etches into the metal

@silboersma4774

2 жыл бұрын

Do you also use it on non-rusty areas?

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Ah nice, so it actually like etches itself into the metal! Well that's pretty cool obviously as it's going to cling pretty dam well. Thanks again mate!

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I think it stands for Paint Over Rust?

@jared2235

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness yup it does

@jared2235

2 жыл бұрын

@@silboersma4774 u can

You can add plasisizer to two pack raptor to make it flexible

@WorkshoptoWilderness

Жыл бұрын

I never knew that, thank you!

@rocklover7437

Жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Mipa 2K elastic or autolack 803 flex agent

@rocklover7437

Жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness BTW using too much air pressure will keep the paint out of tight corners .The air pressure forms a cushion of air in the corners .Paint these areas first with low pressure before making a full pass at normal pressure .

@WorkshoptoWilderness

Жыл бұрын

@@rocklover7437 That makes total sense. Thanks for the tips. I used about 60psi the other day and it went pretty well. Previously I used 80...

Not to sound negative but I cant think of any metal coating that will suvive multiple direct stabs with a screwdriver.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

Ай бұрын

Yeah, that's fair. It's just that they advertise it like that in the bulshit promotions.

Small world. I'd never heard of RAPTOR until today when a Russian Lada Niva I was looking at online said it was painted with RAPTOR. However, what do you think of this, his advert said it was first painted with a Bulgarian version of Hammerite (3-1 Protecta). My old White Niva has a few rust patches on the bodywork that I've been too lazy to address, but these Russian vehicles have some thickness worth writing home about and I started thinking of a quick way of protecting the old gal. I'm not the perfectionist like you are, a paint brush job would do for me, but just interested to hear your opinion of Raptor on top of Hammerite, would it adhere do you think?

@WorkshoptoWilderness

4 ай бұрын

I would think that if the hammerite paint is cured and is old, then the raptor will be fine over the top. Hammerite is generally not a good surface to bond to, but in time, it should be fine like any other paint. I would test it. Instead of brushing it on, use a paint roller with a foam roller. At least it will look better. You will see the brush streaks otherwise.

@RobertsBulgaria

4 ай бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness Hey, thank you for stepping up and answering my questions - next one on KAYS' Catalogue and Bigfoot, no only joking, I'll wait out for the right opportunity.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

4 ай бұрын

Hahaha, you can't beat the kays catalogue! I hope the painting goes well if you choose to go for it 😊

Have you tried double coating?

@WorkshoptoWilderness

4 ай бұрын

I've tried multiple coats. It's a good paint, but it's chip resistant, isn't great. It's amazing with abrasion, though.

the instruction said that if you put too much paint. then the plastic will crack more easy.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

9 ай бұрын

I've made that mistake before but I've also not on plenty of things. It's good stuff but it can be a pain

Por 15 is good for something but it's not uv protected does real bad if the sun hits it and line x does flex but when it comes off it dose it in chunks and only way to repair it is by taking it back to line x and that sucks. Rineo line that IV seen is really tuff but expensive 🤑👍👌✌️💯🇺🇸

Check out a newer and stronger product from U-Pol called Dominator bed liner also tintable 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼

Mike are you going to spray the whole vehicle?

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

No absolutely not. Just the existing areas that have been raptor lined. Also I have removed all the windows and trim and sanded back those areas to paint them. I will also repaint the grill and bumper. Since I'm doing the whole roof I might as well correct some stone damage and other such jobs. Thanks for watching

@silboersma4774

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness thank god:) i was worried already. I really like the two tone you have at the moment. Your videos are always very informative and entertaining to watch. Thanks for sharing!

Nothing will stick to powder coat. Adhesion problems on the front bumper are more to do with prep than product failure.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

I've had pretty good results over powder coat but the front bumper is obvious my prep.

nothing last forever.....unless you buy it straight off the show room floor, soak it in oil, stick it in a controlled environment room, ect....but you definitely added years to its service life...when did you swap to 35" tires...and are you still running the d30 and chevy 8.25 ? what id miss ???

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Certainly right there. You could launch it into outer space? Wouldn't that preserve it. I swapped over to them last year mainly for snow. I'm using the D30 and Chrysler 8.25 still. They don't seem to be an issue for the 8.25 but I've snapped a shaft on the d30. I'm keeping my eye out for a new front axle. I made a few videos over the transition but the algorithm didn't want you to see them lol

@smcfall2

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness rofl - well from everything ive researched the d30 cant handle the 35"s for very long...unless you reallly build them up..i'm sure you've seen the vid "the ultimate d30"...and im not 100% confident in the 8.25 either...thats why ive stayed with 33"s...everything has it's positive and negatives...good luck with them 35"s - it would be very nice..

oh and because Bully liner is water based it is simple to do some touch ups

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Its simple to do touchups on raptor liner. Just scuff it and roll and brush some more on.

Have you heard of Lazard skin ?

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

No I haven't? I s it like raptor Liner?

@neilmarshall4927

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness no, it's a sound and heat reduction product. It's intended for the inside of your vehicle to reduce heat and road noise. It's kind of rubbery and not as durable

WHY ARE YOU NOT DOING BUSHCRAFTING ANYMORE ??????????? i miss those days.........

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Why are you assuming that I don't do bushcraft anymore just because I don't film it? Is that how you think, if its not on film it doesn't happen? I moved to the Wilderness in Norther Sweden, I fish, hunt, camp, hike, forage all year round and because you don't see it, I don't do it anymore. I am human being you know, like you, with a family, job and multiple interests. Your expectations are not my problem.

prefer bully liner water based made in Australia

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

If those two things make it better for you then thats fantastic mate.

Raptor liner is not a stone guard. Use the correct product for the task

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

You tell um Shane Von Farten.

Fc.​Thailand.​ 💯

So you didnt treat the rust, im thinking all your problems are prep.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

Жыл бұрын

I'm not following to be honest. It was a while since I filmed this but from memory everything sprayed was clean metal prior to painting. If anything I paint is rusty it's ground back with a flapper wheel then primed with a 2k epoxy corrosion primer before being raptor lined. This has been me process always and I'm very meticulous about it. The issues I've had with rust and raptor are the raptor chipping and then rust forming, then due to the thick coating of paint, the rust begins forming under it around the chip trapping moisture, yet the paint can continue to hide this.

@zip-tv_

Жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness oh so it chipped then rusted.

@WorkshoptoWilderness

Жыл бұрын

Seems to trap water once it's done this and you might not know for a long time.

You spend more time working on that thing than driving it!

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

How would you know? Its been out overlanding since spring. Besides I enjoy it.

@officialWWM

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness because you post more videos of you working on it than driving it!

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

Comon play nice mate. Making workshop videos is much easier that filming overland videos so naturally there will be more of them. I've had a very good year out in the jeep and surprisingly life continues off camera.

@officialWWM

2 жыл бұрын

@@WorkshoptoWilderness I wasn’t meaning to be disrespectful. Heck, I have an XJ too and I’m pretty sure I spend more time working on it than driving it! I know what they are like :/

@WorkshoptoWilderness

2 жыл бұрын

No worries, there is certainly no shortage of jobs to do on it. Rain season at the moment so it's a good excuse to get the body work all done ...again