brill video, thank you for sharing!

nicec work bryce

Even if the tail of your Bowline is captured, the knot can still capsize into a form that will load the tail. Perhaps if the gear loop breaks, the biner will still block the knot, but perhaps it would be better to clip the biner to a rated loop.

@camilocarrillo2132

2 жыл бұрын

I know nothing on glacier travel but its looks like a hazard, why not just alpine butterfly or double fig 8 or bunny-bowline and clip into the belay loop? Cleaner and easier to inspect using less rope.

The alpine butterfly is a fine knot and much simpler

@rockclimbinghacks9222

5 жыл бұрын

How would you tie in to the middle of the rope with alpine butterfly?

@Govanification

5 жыл бұрын

@@rockclimbinghacks9222 You tie the knot in the rope and clip it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner (some people use 2 carabiners).

@osatgcc

2 жыл бұрын

I love the simple beauty of the Alpine Butterfly as well, but as a rope leader, I also like something that is a little harder for someone behind me to simply unclip from without my notice. It's also one fewer knot to teach new climbers, as the bowline is so broadly useful.

OSAT Thanks for your great video. I see that you have a sling on you for a chest harness, but it is not connected to the working rope. If the victim falls down that crevasse this could mean that he/she could be hanging upside down. Would it not be better to attach the rope to the Karabiner on your chest harness? Thanks for a reply.

@zmotula

5 жыл бұрын

mack man There’s a catch about the chest harness. If you are the one to fall, then it’s good to be clipped into it to keep upright, yes. But if someone other falls, having the rope attached on your chest could drag you down torso first, instead of just nicely making you sit. So it would be nice to know the future, but then you wouldn’t need the harness at all. Some people only clip into the chest harness when it’s more likely for them to fall at the moment.

What's the benefit of using a bowline instead of a butterfly knot? Also, at what point do you clip into your chest harness? Is that after if you fall into a crevass? Useful video, thanks.

@osatgcc

6 жыл бұрын

The bowline on a bight isn't (quite) as strong and is definitely far less elegant than the alpine butterfly, but it has the advantage of tying into the rope in a manner that is harder to untie\accidentally un-clip from, and teaching the learner a more generically useful knot. The alpine butterfly is another excellent choice of course, provided your fellow climbers know it and how to inspect it. Like you said, the chest harness comes into place once you're dangling in a crevasse to help keep you upright.

Beaucoup trop compliqué et encombrant. Comment fais tu pour changer les distances d'encordement ??

I am wondering about the prusics being tied to down hill (pocket) and up hill rope (harness), what happens if the team goes up hill and then down hill and then again up hill, do they have to alwyas switch their prusics depending whether they go up hill or down hill? and the other question, how do they support the chest for those who (I hope not) fall and hunging in crevasse? (e.g. kzread.info/dash/bejne/nYecmaWIZbO6hqQ.html) are they supposed to use the biner to connect their chest harness *while* hunging? and the last one: do they have an extra rope to pull people out of the crevasse or they manage the one they are tied into?

@osatgcc

6 жыл бұрын

1)I said "uphill" but really I should have said "forward". Scenario: The leader signals for a break, steps a few feet off the boot track, anchors in with his ice axe, sits on his pack, and safely begins to take care of his business during that break, while you safely manage the slack you introduce in the system as you close your distance with him to start your break, using your harness prussik ahead of your coiling rope as you approach. With all climbers behind you doing like-wise, the team can safely assemble together, with multiple anchors and minimal slack between them. When the break is over, you can pay that line back out as he stands up and starts climbing in the same manner. Imagine the scenario where a team is similarly closely grouped on a break in a no-fall zone, and has done nothing to securely manage slack between them, just anchored themselves with an ice axe and tones of unmanged slack: When a climber falls - everyone on the rope could easy follow one by one "pop, pop, pop" off the mountain as all of that slack gets taken up with immense force... 2)If a middle climber has the need to prussik, in this scenario he'll always only need to untie then re-tie either his foot prussik or his harness prussik depending on "which was is up". 3)You can see the harness prussik in action to steady a fallen climber in this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eYt8lc6nns-WotI.html 4)You can create a z-pulley with just the 3-5 person rope you're using and the gear shown. Always a good idea to have another spare 2-3 person rope in the pack on your end positions, though.

Why one locking and one unlocking oval biner on the PAS?

@osatgcc

6 жыл бұрын

You need two biners for safely passing over anchor points on fixed lines, for example. In most cases, you're just clipping in with the locker, or maybe using the non-locker as a backup into another system. 2nd biner could be a locker too, but at the cost of $ and weight. Everything's a compromise, right?

What is company and model this harness ?

@osatgcc

6 жыл бұрын

Black Diamond "Alpine Bod"

figure eight on a bight and a locking biner.. in and out

@osatgcc

6 жыл бұрын

Personally, my favorite is locking biner into an alpine butterfly knot. Stronger, simpler, prettier. But as a rope lead with less experienced climbers, I also like to know that I'm more slightly more likely to notice that guy untying himself unexpectedly than if all he had to do was unclip a biner... Sad to say, but I know a guy who first found out he'd lost his friend when he belatedly noticed that he was dragging a slack line in a white out on Liberty Cap several years ago...

butterfly not on a locking crab...