I appreciate you putting it this video and including the Bald Eagle Units. Gave me a good laugh.

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Christopher, Glad you enjoyed it!

Shoo glad you didn't cause any major damage. Love the attention to detail. Keep it up bud 👌

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Mr Prelude, thanks, yes we got lucky, for now it looks like the quick fix is working.

Damn im sorry to hear, been watching since the start of the adventure but never commented really, I’ll keep my thumbs held that you pull this through!! 💪💪

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Bro, thanks for watching, nothing is going to stop us from making the target power!

as always thank you for the update boost!

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi No Limit, My pleasure! thanks for the support.

Just as a heads up... You seem like a decent person who actually cares about their stuff (i can tell from your huge attetion to detail)... You need to put a 1 way check valve in-line with the PCV valve if your going to run the system that way. Make sure it will close under boost. Because those factory pcv valves were not meant to see boost, they dont close every time when the manifold is under pressure. If you can find a clear 3/8 check valve (sometimes aquarium stores sell them) it will help so you can see through the check valve to make sure its not getting clogged. But def need a check valve. Otherwise like 50% of the time the manifold sees boost, so will the crank case.... Happy boosting. Cheers.

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Matt, thanks for the advice and taking the time to share helpful information. I actually for this reason block that hose off, after the pcv valve it is just blocked, I am just using the pipe because I could not stand having the block-off be visible on the intake manifold, so the pipe does not connect to the black breather box, and then I left the breather box open to atmosphere, same with the valve cover breather, I do plan to rout it to a catch can later on. but thanks for the tip with the check valve, I will look into that, see if I can find one.

Mooi man love the setup

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Rashied, dankie! dyno session coming soon..

literally looks just like mine got the head off yesterday lol

@RisingBoostYT

11 ай бұрын

Awesome bro, good luck with assembly, dm me a Pic to Instagram.

Sorry to hear that!!

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Mike, thanks for the support! lucky we got if fixed and for now its still holding up.

@MikeKollin

Жыл бұрын

@@RisingBoostYT Cool...

We are supposed to retorted our head studs at 1000 miles. Personally I think 500 is better then again at 1000. That prevents head gasket sealing issues. But after second retorque should be good to go.

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi 3dw3dw, thank for the advice, this is a highly debated topic on the forms. but I will say that retorquing did work for me initially. but I do suspect that I stretched my head studs with the higher comp, old tunes ignition timing + boost

@3dw3dw

2 жыл бұрын

@@RisingBoostYT I don't know about the debatability. I just know that it is required per the instructions included with arp2000 stud sets. Instructions call for retorque at 1000 miles. I feel safer to retorque at 500 miles then again at another 500 miles.

Hi what tool/ did you do to get the middle bolt out on the intake manifold? I was watching as best I could.

@RisingBoostYT

Жыл бұрын

Hi bro, I use 2 small 10mm spanners, the ring sides are slightly offset, so I can swop between the 2 and bolt it on from the top through the small hole in the intake

@lilbboy373

Жыл бұрын

Thank you bro!. I changed the valve cover gasket then cleaned some gunk off the engine and saw that my leak is a step deeper at the head gasket. So I'll be doing this very soon Ive just been researching a lot

I’m running an SiR body with d16zc on it. Any cam suggestions? Just gonna run it NA but I wanna switch to an aftermarket cam and cam gear

@RisingBoostYT

6 ай бұрын

Hi John, ZC I assume it is the "Similar to Y8" ZC, if the head code is P2J? the stock sohc vtec cams are fairly good, I would spend money on a Skunk2 intake manifold, slightly bigger TB and exhaust system first, then a cam, they pricey though but look at skunk2, speedfactory or brian crower, cam gear - personally I think skunk2 make the nicest cam gear. just be sure the cam is not intended for turbo setup. some cams require a valve kit also. it is basically limited to what you want to spend. if you do change the cam you can benefit a lot from a good tune.

The temperature on the dash shows overheating? My d16y7 stock stay down in comparative to your civic.

@RisingBoostYT

6 ай бұрын

Hi Pedro, I get this comment a lot, I think it is because it is a JDM cluster (kmph), because they all sit like that at operating temp, I have a Fan controller only allowing temp to go 10F above where the thermostat opens before the fan bring it back to where the thermostat opens at 172F, so it only goes to 182F max. but the cluster always sit in that spot.

I also have a white civic...my problem is a crank sensor...for some reason mine is gone the car did drive but now it doesn't wanna start...should i take it apart?

@RisingBoostYT

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, what model civic do you have? most of the 80s/90s D-series motors don't have crank sensors, they use the 3 sensors inside the dizzy to determine engine position.

@HondaCivicEk9DudeSA

2 жыл бұрын

@@RisingBoostYT it's a d series same as yours but the dizzy is not the same I'll post a video of my car and engine

Need some arp head studs…

@RisingBoostYT

Жыл бұрын

Yes that is correct, but I must cheap out first, learn and then get ARP's

Line paip terbo