Trying to FIX: SONY Colour Watchman Portable TV
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
Hi, this video shows me attempting to fix a 1991 Sony Watchman colour portable television Model FDL-390BE. It will not power up and shows no signs of life. It was purchased on eBay many years ago and was sold as untested, when it arrived it didn't work!!! :-)
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
Пікірлер: 355
in future if you find a electronic device with a blown fuse, temporarily replace it with a bulb, if your circuit is 9 V then put 9v or 12v bulb in its place. If the bulb then lights up, then you know you have a short in the circuit and it won't burn any other components in your device. you can then remove any suspected components and if the bulb goes out you know you have located the shorted component. electronic capacitors all have what they call ESR "in series resistance" and as they age that resistance goes up or the capacitor can go short. I would invest in an ESR metre .so you can test capacitors in circuit, but make sure the tester can test capacitors at 100khz thanks Vince for another great video. I also learned from you as well mate.
@andersmmvfc.8376
4 жыл бұрын
Awsome ide a bit fragile but mutch better then a wire
@areyouserious3092
4 жыл бұрын
Spot on lol and I thought I was the only one who does that.
@kpodbot1
4 жыл бұрын
ESR means Equivalent series resistance and I believe Vince already has a test meter for this.
@daveharkin4731
4 жыл бұрын
@@kpodbot1 yes your right mate ESR does mean equivalent series resistance do you know what ESL stands for?and what is the dissipation factor and q angle of a capacitor? :-)
@faidularcs
4 жыл бұрын
@@daveharkin4731 equivalent series inductance
21,High Street,Clacton,Essex. it'a PDSA charity shop now.
@chamoo232
4 жыл бұрын
I checked google map as well. The sign says PDSA but what we see in the windows look like a New age store that sells rocks and "tobacco pipes". lol
@Pillock25
4 жыл бұрын
I was wandering how many others checked.
@Merescat
4 жыл бұрын
@@Pillock25 I set the U/O at 50% :)
@cantliff9
4 жыл бұрын
I also went on Google Street view 😄
@mistermatix8241
4 жыл бұрын
It is a PDSA Charity Shop
The glue holding the flex ribbon to the LCD panel has likely cracked and/or the adhesive leaked between contacts. The lines you are seeing are an indication of this. You could try a hair dryer while applying pressure to the flex (at the glass of the LCD). Try rubbing the flex at the glass and see if the lines change. As for the tuner, Sony used a vertical green line to indicate the tuning position. So if it were working, a green line would scroll left to right to match up with the numbers at the top.
You should remove the solder from the pads of the leaking caps and clean the pads with IPA. Make sure the traces haven't been eaten away by the leaking fluid.
Woah, I dreamed to get one of these when I was a child, now we all have a "mini TV" in our pocket 24/7. Times change.
@charlesmurphy1510
3 жыл бұрын
Well, not really. The phone costs money to operate and local channels? No. This was free over the air.
Lol I love your perplexed thoughts on the delay line 😄 it's a very clever little component that sends ultrasonic waves through a piece of glass type material, with a transducer at one end (a "speaker") and another at the other end (a "mic") the time the wave takes to get through the glass (it's not a straight line, it bounces around inside in a very controlled manner) gives the required time delay to the signal. Common in all PAL video equipment. The tuning indicator on these TVs was a vertical on-screen line that moved across the screen. Oh...u just figured that out...ha 😄 I enjoy ur vids, it's the KZread equivalent of sitting down with a nice cup of tea.
Theres nothing in the florescent tube but gas that lights up when power is applied. :). No continuity will be shown as no fillament
@sarah1390
4 жыл бұрын
That's true for the most part. There is a Filament only at 1 end of the bulb that stays on until the gas heats up inside to start the transmission of electrons through the tube (The starter in the Ballast) that gives off UV lights then the phosphors that coat the inside of the bulb get excited giving us the light we are used to. But no wire like a tungsten filament bulb to give us continuity.
@scaleop4
4 жыл бұрын
its known as a cold cathode tube.
You win some and you lose some. However, for me your videos are always a win 😊 Looking forward to the revisit video!
Hi, Vince. I've been enjoying your videos for some time. It'll be easy for a year. I always share your joy when you manage to fix something, find a mistake or precision soldering. You were an inspiration to start repairing things too. I do not mean it wrong, but finally to see that you are a normal person and not a repairing amateur God. In the last videos you may not succeed, but much of the way with progress to see there always. Therefore, thanks for every new video.
Tuner part is fine as you can hear the audio static in the background of some of the last video clips. The lcd itself is fine too as almost every pixels color is changing randomly. I'd suggest it's a timing issue, caused by a loose connection or some more bad caps.
21 High Street is now a PDSA charity shop (according to Google) - I would replace the remaining caps before giving up! Some of them probably couple signals.
Never heard of these but still great to see for an interesting video.
Oh yeah.. I remember those things. Not the Sony one, but I had one too.. borrowed from my neighbor for a couple weeks and it was awesome. Sat there, late at night with the antenna out under my blanket and watched some action movies.
Great video. Same thoughts. Same conclusion. Do more. Good stuff.
Vince m8 you forgot to clean away the electrolight from the leaked caps this is very corosive and will eat away at the copper tracks as for the delay line all colour tvs had adelay line in the colour circuit so that the luma circuit and the croma circuit would sync together they are very delicate so careful.
@ExtremeBogom
4 жыл бұрын
He said in the video that he did clean the fluid off, and that it was causing a bad smell.
Outstanding Sir. Thank you for all your knowledge on these devices.
@spidermcgavenport8767
3 жыл бұрын
Sir, I have a vintage Jensen KVS-4000 version of LCD TFT portable TV and half the screen is creating a strange every other pixel design on it which I may in the future take it apart and run a soldering iron across the ribbon wire or something to get it working again its a fantastic display for games. I watched your Phone LCD display repair video which is inspiring for me to try that on this device too.
This is a gorgeous bit of kit mate. Tha ks for the vid
Its Luminance delay line. I remember them from the old colour tube sets I worked on when I was a tv engineer. Its purpose is to delay the luma (b/w) part of the video info processing with the slower chroma signal which processesing. This ensures the luminance and chroma signals scan at the same time and no delay. Hence its name.
I'm just happy they spelt colour correctly on the box.
Once you get into TVs and other high frequency devices, capacitor selection for replacement becomes critical. Most high frequency circuits need "low ESR" capacitors and certainly good quality ones. The kit packs are usually generic low grade caps that are ok for general circuit tinkering but not up to demanding high frequency use. It may be that one or more of the replacement caps is messing with some tuned circuit. If you ever re-visit this I'd suggest ordering specific low ESR replacements from RS Components or similar. Ebay caps will pretty much be sub standard ones.
17:50 - it's adds a delay to the signal, Dave from EEVlog has a good video on them (it's a rather complex subject!)
We will wait for the revisit Vince.
I had two of these. One was dead, but the other one worked very well. Got a good picture as the high power Sandy Heath transmitter is only 14 miles away. Sold them both on EBay before digital switchover.
I have one of these since 1993 and still works perfectly fine. Althoung we here in USA have turned into digital since October 2009; I wont get rid of mine in case anything happens to our technology. I perform a test once a year to check functionality and clean the unit. This one is beautiful model and the TV image looks amazing. Hope you can be able to fix yours!
I was in the same state a couple of weeks ago. I had repaired my Virtual Boy only to have it fail in the same way again...just around the same time I got a Sega lot and was only able to fully repair 1 of 4 items after trying everything I can think of...and somewhere in between I got a Commodore 64 that I assumed would be an easy fix and I have spent many hours trying to get it to work (it still doesn't). I guess we do this for the fun and that occasional moment of glory when things actually do work.
Replacing a blown fuse with wire is asking for problems. I wonder what IC you fried. The blown fuse was an indicator, and you ignored it. Try a thermal camera now
@8bitbubsy
4 жыл бұрын
It's very possible that he didn't fry a single thing by jumpering that fuse. Just because it blows for a reason doesn't mean there has to be a constant short somewhere. My guess would be that the LCD itself didn't stand the test of time, as some LCD screens get internal connection issues as they age. Also note how he didn't replace every single SMD cap, that could also be the culprit. Some caps can look prestine and still be bad, especially those early 90s SMD ones.
@tony359
4 жыл бұрын
@@8bitbubsy still, replacing a fuse with a wire is asking for trouble. A 1A fuse is not so uncommon to buy and botch in for a quick test.
@8bitbubsy
4 жыл бұрын
@@tony359 Yep, it's definitely not good practice.
@codebeat4192
4 жыл бұрын
@@8bitbubsy A fuse is there to protect against damage, current is above normal, ignoring that is asking for trouble. A bad cap can make a short circuit (or very close) and stress other valuable (and sensitive) components like IC's on the board. A bad cap can also 'explode' or catch fire (Tantalum ones), not very nice to look at when investigating the problem. Remember there is also a high voltage section inside. I don't understand that he doesn't clean the board first before trying anything. Flux residue (I don't think that is a Sony issue but a earlier repair issue) and leaked electrolytic can conduct over time (first mistake before bypassing fuse), rinse it first before any try to power it up again. Beside that, he doesn't measure anyhting else except the fuse, not a good example (of order) to investigate the problem. Bypassing a fuse is not a good idea when you don't know exactly the condition of the board.
@8bitbubsy
4 жыл бұрын
@@codebeat4192 Thanks, but I'm well aware. I never said that it's good practice to replace a fuse with a wire, but I said that it doesn't *have* to mean that you'll break the device even further. Sometimes a fuse blows because of a temporary problem, of which replacing the fuse with a wire wouldn't cause futher damage (but it's still gambling, and I wouldn't recommend it).
Valiant effort, as always Mate! Better luck next time. :)
Such a cool device. Nice to see it come to life!
Vince, Awesome work my man! I have to say your soldering skills have improved dramatically. I still think you would show even more improvement with a station like the KSGER using the t15/t12 tips. Btw this looks to be an LCD connection issue.
I remember being amazed how you could hold a TV in the hand. Although I also loved my calculator watch. Pretty easy pleased back in the day. 😂
I have never had luck with those old units like that. Unlike some things, those units had a life time expectation and as you noted, the electronics has over time gone bad. You would think in this day and age we would be advanced enough to eliminate those capacitors. Modern TV's still use them as well as other chemical filled electronics that over time fail. Florescent bulbs go bad too, eliminating their usefulness. I find every video of yours valuable. I have a 27 volt out put wall charger that cannot be reduced in power. I tried wiring resistors in line and the thing is boosting the output back up to 27 volts. I need an 18 volt charger, not 27 volt. The stepper circuit board is reducing the voltage to 4. 4 volts intended for charging nicad batterys but again, still reduces the power to 4.5 volts. I am a bit upset because it was advertised as an 18 volt unit and its not.
thank you for trying make it working 👏👏👏
It really is worth spending so much work on an obsolete device that will not work because of digital terrestrial television, or DTT, I have a similar and can not find channels because of DTT. I imagine that the same thing will happen As soon as you finish repairing it, a cordial greeting from Spain. I love your channel, and you always have my likes.
7:54 another Kenneth Williams impression. 👍
RATED: 📺📺📺📺📺 👍😁 Always a fast paced & entertaining "repair ride along". Add that U.K. determination and outstanding camera work and you've got a Winner Winner Chicken Dinner (said a man from... Austria 🇦🇹, I think:) "Our greatest glory is not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall" {Confucious} 🇺🇸❤🇬🇧
I like the surface finish. Way better than rubber coating which becomes gluey and sticky.
Such a shame you didn't get it working, it looks lovely. I've got a few of these pocket TV's myself, most of them are by Casio but I've also got an old black and white Watchman and a a colour Watchman and a Sinclair black and white one.
Awsome video i realy hope you do a revisit!
I had a Casio portable tv when I was young, I loved it it was the best thing I owned, used to take it in the car all the time and watch the Simpsons at 6 on 2 when we were going home.
@richardanderson5424
4 жыл бұрын
My dad used to take his casio to bed and when I checked on him before I went to bed he was always watching “Prisoner-cell Block H”. He denied it saying that he thought it was a documentary about a female prison. Sold it on a boot sale as it was too small for anything except cell block really.
Vince! You skipped your reaction while editing! We missed when it turned on! Great vid!
Having had several mini TV's back in the 1980's. I would bet a pound to a penny, someone bought a power pack from Tandy, the ones that do, 6v,9v,12v etc. It would appear to me they plugged it in set on 12v or higher. And possibly with the connector set too plus in the middle and negative on the outside. Thus creating a Serge, and incorrect polarity. Back in the 80's and 90's you couldn't get power adapters like you can today. 👍😎👍 MDS
great video
It’s a PDSA charity shop. I don’t live in clacton on sea, I googled it. Would you ever consider a live trying to fix stream , Vince? It would be ace!
To heavy handed with the LCD it was working when you bridged the fuse. Then when you took it out and put it back in it then had some horizontal lines.
I'm noticing that M52003AFP-chip. It seems to be responsible for the video output. There's a handy datasheet for this chip if you just search for M52003AFP on Google. The first result should be from "AllDataSheet" (it's the one I used). If not, it's probably the second result. Otherwise, keep looking until you find it. It contains all the pin names (abbreviations anyway), voltage specifications and expected behavior of each pin. If the device suffered a major surge, that chip could be toasted. You could try to find the voltage going into and out of the chip (it's got Vcc and Vee pins, which are collector and emitter pins respectively, as well as a ground pin. From ground, Vcc pins should be 4.5V ± 0.5V, Vee should be -7.5V ± 0.5V (although I'm confused as the pins say "-Vee"...)). PS: Vcc is rated for a maximum of 13V, but it shouldn't be anywhere near that voltage (but it shouldn't be lower than 4V either)! You may also check for shorts between each pin and the ground. If they're testing out fine, try and check the peak-to-peak voltages for the Video Input, Chroma Input and External RGB Input pins (you're gonna need an Oscilloscope for that). The peak-to-peak voltage values should be: Video Input: 0.5V (500mV) Chroma Input: 0.1V (100mV) External RGB Input: 0.8V (800mV) And the pins should be (pin 1 being near the dot on the chip, counting counter-clockwise): Video Input: ?? (honestly, I'm struggling to find the correct pin(s) from the datasheet... someone else is going to have to scrutinate the datasheet for me and fill in the missing pin(s)) Chroma Input: 54 (not sure if any other pins count) External RGB Input: 13, 15, 16 (those were the EXT INs I found, corresponding to red, green and blue respectively) I may be missing information (Video Input in particular, because my brain couldn't truly decipher every pinout's meaning), but this is what I could find (should you, My Mate Vince, choose to NOT read the datasheet). Another chip of interest is the rectangular AN5707NS-chip. It's responsible for handling the tuner portion of the device (for the LCD problems, it's irrelevant of course). If the M52003AFP-chip isn't faulty, the LCD (or its board segment) may be. Of course, I may be grasping at thin air and actually end up providing no useful information this time. Once again, another great video to watch, and I hope to see a follow-up exploring that chip! 😊
I've still got a Casio one, but not as elaborate as your one It still works though, except there is no analogue channels now!
@annother3350
3 жыл бұрын
Lets start Analogue pirate TV!!
@tronixfix
3 жыл бұрын
I got a Nordmende TR101 also still working
Its a PDSA charity Shop now!!
@keithbstar1
4 жыл бұрын
The linen shop next door was probably there.
For the tuning it works like this!! If the TV works properly, theres a red or green line appearing on screen which is synced to that scale on top of the screen. The channel buttons move that line left or right until you found a channel EDIT: reached the end of the video and you figured out yourself ;)
i love your videos !
I bought one of those about the same time as you, and I had to replace 100% of the surface mount electrolytics, but it works fine now. It's not super impressive by todays standards; it's not very bright and view angles are terrible, but it's fun
Well at least you now have a device for attracting bees.
This is very similar with the leaking capacitor damage to many Sony (and other brand) hand held video cameras. Once those SMD caps leak all over the board, the electrolyte gets down into the layers of the board and destroys the interconnect traces and/or causes low resistance paths between them. Once this happens it's game over. The only way you'd ever get it working again is to replace the entire PCB. Manufacturers did themselves no favors at all by using these awful SMD caps. Whether they knew they would end up leaking in this manner it's hard to say, but I've scrapped hundreds of things which have had them in and were destroyed in the same way.
26:02 still less donglage than a modern apple product.
Yep, I checked too on street view PDSA:)
I don't if anyone else has commented on it ;) but 21 High St is now a PDSA charity shop. I am surprised to see the Sharp Brand on a Sony product. Sanyo components yes but not Sharp. There was a Sharp factory in Newton Heath in Manchester who offered us, at the local fire station, big discounts. We took them up on it now and again but they weren't very good at all.
16:25 is the smartest moment to measure CFL tube like that 😂🙈
Sorry to hear that it didn't work out for you Vince. Hopefully, you have a better winning streak.
Revist with your improved skills 😎😁
I bet I could repair that for just under 500£ Lol, as always I enjoyed this probing into the guts of a new, unusual patient. I used to own one that was a CRT but seem to project onto an angle coated metal surface. The display was a grayish white to black. It was chunky in the hand about the size of two chins processed sandwich meat tins.
I found what you are looking for I think that the LCD screen might be bad yes the red and green light should show is the switch working correctly. Shape ttransistor did not look right to me I would change it out keep it up you don't give up you get it to work too bad you can't use a color game boy screen to test it enjoy all your videos Bryce
Someone posted a link to the service manual. From the schematics, I'd be focusing around IC 301 and working back to IC 201 and IC 103, but you'll probably need to break out the oscilloscope. Schematics also show F601 is feeding the input voltage (battery or 9v, positive inner, jack) to the power switch. Not that important since there's no power rail short. Good luck. Hoping for a revisit video.
Delay line: this is used to alter the travel speed of a signal. E.g. audio and video signals may be out of sync, so you can use a delay line to get them back to sync.
@marcelvandenbroek537
4 жыл бұрын
A delay line keeps the faster, luminance image in step with the slower, chrominance image. The narrowband chrominance signal requires more processing than the wideband luminance signal. ... The delay line assures that the two images start scanning across your screen at the same time.
"I must make sure not to touch the tube" ... proceeds to touch the tube.
@iaincowell9747
4 жыл бұрын
When there's power going through it.
@Operational117
4 жыл бұрын
@@iaincowell9747 Everything's fine when there's no power going through it... ... except capacitors. Never trust capacitors after shutdown.
@Mobin92
4 жыл бұрын
A tube like old TVs had them is basically like a capacitor charged to several thousands of Volts though, even when not plugged in. This however was really just some little neon tube...
Nice video ...👍 I would try to scope to see signal
its a pdsa charity shop now vince :)
So many great replies here surely a revisit is in order 👍
Always wanted one out the Argos catalogue
those SM capacitors are the devil. I had similar leakage in a Bose wave system that leaked all over the audio section and caused the amplifier to fail. not a lot of pads left after removal so I had to trace the connections and solder further along. I always fit normal electrolytics if space allows. These things have written off a lot of expensive equipment (camcorders for one back in the day)
Hi there Vince could you share a link for them mixed surface mount capacitors and regular through hole capactiors please id like to see them and maybe purchase some for repairing pc monitors also keep up the awesome vids love coming home to see a relaxing repair vid helps me wind down and relax with a cup of tea after a long day of stacking food in a freezer :D.
Also, even earlier, I think in the late 70's (though my memory betrays me), Panasonic introduced the Panasonic Travelvision, with either a B&W or color CRT in an incredibly small, 1.5 inch screen. It was so small it literally included a magnifier to clip onto the screen. Hilariously, it also had a wrist strap if you wanted to look particularly sexy.... Probably the smallest color CRT ever made, and very rare.
They where state of art in its day. It was almost like a flat panel. I believe it is like new because people nowadays that buy away from home devices use them once or twice and pack it away in a back of the closet.
when you get the roller up and running.........please drive over that jedward cd.......several thousand times😂😂
If it bares any similarity to a laptop lcd.. The ribbon supplying the lcd will have a 3v supply on some of the pins, and the rest will be signal pins, the 3v usually has more than one pin dedicated to it because its higher load, so this is how you can find which one it is without the schematic, I'd check to see if you have this voltage on the screen ribbon
Thanks for the video! One word: flux :)
Did you solder the wire back on, or did I miss that bit?
nice video
The later model with a radio I have a like new one which works great and different board design. I have an analogue tv transmitter.
It is now a PDSA but I understand Bakers Television is now trading under the Euronics name
My one just shows a snowy screen like you normally used to see with any analogue TV also displays a thin green vertical line as a tuning indicator. I think your TV could have been damaged by someone connecting the wrong type of mains adaptor, (too higher voltage or wrong polarity +/-) Possibly why the fuse had blown.
The AV input ground should be tied to negative rail of power supply, you can check it that way. Also you need high voltage to light fl. tube._
I am guessing that fuse and the higher voltage rating might be related to the LCD backlight inverter. The old ones were florescent needing a higher voltage.
One day I hope you get to fix this.. such a shame
Looks like there isn’t a proper sync signal for the LCD. Not sure if this would be normal PAL sync signals, or if there is a A to D conversion to support the signal format for the LCD (if the latter it’s likely in one of those ICs). Was also thinking of the fuse. If there aren’t replacements, you can probably take a normal glass fuse of the same spec, and desolder (or break the glass jacket), and solder the filament from the fuse into the fuse case on the board. May be a little tricky to get solder to stick, but should be of the same properties as the original fuse.
vince, the tuner indicator will be on the screen, you get a coloured line going from top to bottom and thats your tuner indicator
Bakers fitted my Multi-Satellite Dish and Echostar Gear back in 1988
@My Mate VINCE, Check all the tracks around the caps, they could have eaten the tracks, when ordering the caps use 105 degrees caps, they last longer, Replace all the caps! Geat video :-)
@drstkova
4 жыл бұрын
This is the answer. When just one capacitor being bad could explain these symptoms it’s not enough to say “I replaced 99 of the 100 caps”. The 100th might be the one causing the problem.
@AnonymousRepair
4 жыл бұрын
Had a computer shop bring me a monitor which they have replaced all the caps on the power supply with 85 degrees caps and the power supply would not worked , so thinking okay all the caps was replaced it must be the power ic, I tried everything but still nothing at the end i said well let's redo the caps to 105c and there the monitor worked, I could not believe that the caps was the fault
You've reminded me that I have an old Sony Video Walkman (8MM video recorder/player with a 4" LCD) commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Original_Sony_Video_Walkman.JPG in my storage that I had working years ago and then stopped again. Been meaning to fix that again someday.
21 High Street, Clacton-On-Sea... in the year 2020 has since become a PDSA Charity Shop, or so it seems.
It would be good if you could mode this to a small Freeview box inside this case and working portable handheld tv
Hmm, 2 failure vids in a row, and a Jedward cd involved in both...use the force Vince, or a brick to destroy this cd of the dark side, and I am sure you will get back to winning ways lol! Success or failure, your videos are always entertaining, thanks Vince :)
Is there still Analog tv where you are at? All TV in the US went Digital and analog tv doesn't work anymore without a HDTV converter..
On street view it's a charity shop now
No, the original Color Watchman came out much earlier, with a roughly five or six inch CRT screen, with impressive image quality for a direct RF or UHF feed, since there's no longer any OTA TV stations. It also required an outlet, no batteries. But I still love it and wanted it more than crack cocaine when I was a kid....
The address is now a PDSA charity shop. So not all bad news.
Panel damage. Strip panel assembly, there is usually a sticker giving the model on the rear of the panel.
21 High street is now a PDSA Charity shop.
21 High Street in Clacton is now a PDSA charity shop
FYI - 21 High Street was a charity shop as of Google Street View's last pass in 2019 - Google does list it as still open for business.
Had one of these as a kid brings back memories u though u where rich if u did
It's sad that when television switched over to Digital tv, back in 1983, it was a death sentence for all of these older mini portable tv's. Only way to get it to work is hook it to a converter box.