My 4cyl Ranger had a very similar issue and it was the EMERGENCY fuel cut off switch. The dealer told me ($700 later in 1998} that it was a very common problem. I replaced it and it worked lovely. It wasn’t so much it wasn’t giving fuel (ugh, how to explain), but telling the computer to stop after a short time. You “can” reset them a few times, but eventually it will need replacing. I dunno... tossing pennies at dollars I guess!

@douglasarmes8750

4 жыл бұрын

he is getting fuel so its not the efcs

@txpacket

4 жыл бұрын

douglas armes Yeah-mine was too. But we replaced that as a last resort and TADAAAAA-It ran. Hit 250k mi in 2002 with no further challenges. I’m aware it doesn’t make proper sense-but it did solve the similar issue we had. At this point-it may be worth resetting for giggles!

@dasarge84

4 жыл бұрын

@@douglasarmes8750 the enertia switch has more then 2 leads on it if the ECU signal wires are having issues then the enertia switch is a definet possible cause seen it happen on a cupple fords with various engine types

@darrenbutland2056

4 жыл бұрын

That would make sense. The engine ran on the spray just fine.

@jasonvargas6775

4 жыл бұрын

Agree, inertia switch.

The engine runs normally as long as you feed starting fluid into the intake. That means that it is NOT a crank position sensor. It is NOT a coil problem. It is NOT a problem with plugs or plug wires. But it *IS* a fuel problem. As soon as you bypass the normal fuel delivery system with the starting fluid, it runs. You watched the injectors squirt sequentially. What you *didn't* do is verify that they were squirting at the proper times. Imagine what would happen if you connected the trigger wires to the incorrect injectors so they fired out of sequence. An occasional cylinder might fire because of fuel residue left in the combustion chamber. Hmmm... does that sound familiar? Maybe the wiring is mis-connected. Or maybe there's a problem with the ECU sending the signals to the wrong injectors. But your problem almost certainly centers around those injectors.

@FrancoCastro

4 жыл бұрын

This actually makes a lot of sense

@slowdaze

4 жыл бұрын

100% Agree. What his fuel injector test doesn't take into account is the ignition switch change from start to run position. By spraying starting fluid he is bypassing whatever tells the injectors to squirt when the ignition switch is in the run position.

@gutsngorrrr

4 жыл бұрын

You beat me to it, I can't believe he forgot that it ran well on starting fluid, which really does narrow things down to fuel delivery.

@lustfulvengance

4 жыл бұрын

I would have to disagree, unless it's a direct injection engine the injectors can fire whenever and it would still run! Hell on the old Bosch systems they sprayed fuel continuously and those ran perfect! My guess is that the injectors aren't spraying enough fuel, you can't really tell that just by looking at them while cranking the engine. Running lean will cause that weird dieseling it was doing as well.

@3374jj

4 жыл бұрын

@ Douglas... You speak the language!!!! If it doesn't sense airflow... What will happen??? It will shut itself down right?

There's no way that Ford could beat you JR, I look forward to you guys getting that thing running.

I had a 2000 Ranger that was doing exactly what this one is doing. We checked everything and I ended up taking it to a shop that found the crank position sensor clip was loose. As soon as he pushed it back on the truck fired up and I never had the issue again. This was the first thing that came to mind when I saw your first video on this truck.

@youngreaperman

Жыл бұрын

Do you know where the crank position sensor clip is at. I'm having this exact problem .

@VeggieBeard

Жыл бұрын

@Young Modz On mine, it was at the bottom of the engine behind the Crank pulley, I believe. It's been 10+ years, but I believe there is a gear like piece behind the crank pulley, and the crank position sensor reads its rotation to tell the computer the position of the crank. What year Ranger or year, make, model are you working with?

@youngreaperman

Жыл бұрын

@Ray Bell my ranger is a 94 xt. Exactly like the one in the video except its in green lol

I love this episode. Great discussion and coverage.

Thank you for continuing to try this frustrating old truck

I had a ranger with the exact same issues i got it to run choked off with starting fluid and saw the extremely low back pressure on the exhaust... It ended up being a clogged cat

@bewernia

4 жыл бұрын

That makes sense. I had an old-ish LTD that was absolutely gutless. It turned out to be a melted cat.

@justinchapman5774

4 жыл бұрын

That's what I was thinking, pull out the upstream o2 sensor and see if it makes any difference

@Patrick-pf4ew

4 жыл бұрын

I have actually seen that happen on several 4cyl rangers

@TheFracturedRooster

4 жыл бұрын

Why would it run on starter fluid? And when it ran it flowed exhaust nicely out the tailpipe.

@anthonyferreira876

4 жыл бұрын

@@TheFracturedRooster no it did not flow nicely and I barely had it running in that state. It took two people with a circus of playing with the throttle and spraying starting fluid down the throat while I was inside and outside the vehicle looking for other symptoms. And I have no idea why starting fluid worked. Even though I checked for fuel pressure and injector spray just like he does in the video I think that the starting fluid is a lot more volatile and it made the combustion process a lot easier.

Hey man! First of all, I like your channel. You keep it real. Keep it up. My 98 Dakota (2.5L - 4 cyl. - 5 speed) started doing an intermittent stall when driving at random times. The last experience I had was it not starting. Same as your Ranger. Start, run for about a second and die. Replaced many of those electronics: TPS, ICM etc. Scanners would not clearly identify the problem. We turned to ECU. I have another truck, same year, drivetrain, everything (even the same color). I swapped the ECU (luckily no flashing needed). Runs just fine again, no problems. The bad ECU in my spare truck now has the exact same symptom. Starts for a second and dies. Looks like even a top shelf scanner could not detect and ECU that causes shutdown. I know you'll figure it out, or at least we enjoy watching you figure it out. Hope this helps! - DA

YOU can eliminate the exhaust being plugged by pulling an o2 ( upstream) or pull the cat connector, my ALLDATA says fuel pressure is between 35-40.

*did you try turning it off and on again* Sorry, I had to.

@txpacket

4 жыл бұрын

Justin W. But Justin! It’s not Microsoft Windows!!!! 😂

@nghermit4922

4 жыл бұрын

Hello IT?

@ryans413

4 жыл бұрын

Or unplug and plug it back in

@YahshuamySovereign

27 күн бұрын

😅

Oh man! I was really hoping to find out what the problem was on the ranger! LOL Thanks for sharing hope we get better info next time! Take care and God bless you all!

Your videos have actually given me information i can use i appreciate that

The only thing left to check is the brake fluid and tire air pressure. Oh, did you put summer air in the tires by mistake maybe?

@budyfixit

4 жыл бұрын

Damb southern air... always forget about it. Blinker fluid too.

check the reference voltage circuit for your sensors......some run at 5 V...….ensure the circuit is not being pulled low due to component or wiring issue.

Keep on pushing! This is the ultimate challenge!

I bought an 87 Ranger for $400 that was sitting out in a cow pasture for about 4 years with a broken side rear window. I slapped the jumper cables on it, and it fired up the first crank. I drove it for a couple of years and sold it for a profit.

@YahshuamySovereign

27 күн бұрын

Ha ha ha! Shut up!😂😂😂

check the cigarette lighter position sensor, it's always that dang CLPS...

@WatchJRGo

4 жыл бұрын

😂😂😂 this thing has 4 cigarette lighters, might be troubleshooting for hours!

@budyfixit

4 жыл бұрын

Back when every car came with em

@fakiirification

4 жыл бұрын

if it was a BMW... it might just be a faulty cigarette lighter that keeps the engine from starting. everyone knows that you need perfectly functional cigarette lighters in order to use a motor vehicle safely.

Frustrated he left us with a cliffhanger video. He should not be allowed to go have fun until his work is done lol

Check the cam timing. I had a buddy get an older 2.3 Ranger for dirt cheap because it didn't run. He went through the thing and found the timing belt had slipped 1 tooth. It had good compression, spark, and fuel, but the timing was just a little off. Good luck, love the videos!

Swap coil or spark plugs wires on intake and exhaust sides, this happened on my Nissan with similar set up. The truck would start for a brief moment than cut out.

I love these videos...look forward to the mystery solution.

1: It runs when you spray starting fluid in intake. This means to me that crank and cam sensors are ok, as well as ignition timing. 2: Put gauge on fuel rail. Does pressure stay up to spec while cranking AND when it fires? And rail pressure should only very slowly bleed down, or injectors are leaking 3: You may have to scope injector pulses. If they are staying on too long and spraying too much fuel, could be fouling out plugs.

This is fantastic content! Thanks JR! In know you will crack this one!

after 40 plus years turning wrenches the next thing i would is check the security system. Starting and dying is a feature of some systems. lock the truck with the key and unlock it. then start....or disconnect the system relay.

I have seen fords do that with a bad ignition switch on the secondary side

@AndyEffertz

4 жыл бұрын

Andrew Allen you would have to test to find out but I’m sure he will keep filling the ranger full of China parts until it stays running

@andrewallen9537

4 жыл бұрын

@@AndyEffertz I would first test the ignition module as they do this on fords.then the ignition switch

@AndyEffertz

4 жыл бұрын

Andrew Allen yes testing is the only way to find the true problem without causing more problems than when you started

Time to call the Car Wizard?

@jetjazz05

4 жыл бұрын

They're local to him, they've collabed before... I second his idea. Plus I feel like it's wiring or ecu, Wizard's no joke a pro at figuring wiring out.

@metromusic5725

4 жыл бұрын

Car Wizard hates JR (shhhh its a secret to everybody)

@stephenmayer9228

4 жыл бұрын

@@jetjazz05 yes... Kansas were 45 miles away is "Local".

It's good to see you fixing that Ranger. That little truck can be so useful.

I hope you continue this project. I'm even going watch all the ads no skipping to see you figure this 1 out

Collapsed catalytic converter? Had a Grand Am back in the day that had something similar.

@danielwhetzel8436

4 жыл бұрын

Had a Volvo once that wouldn't do anything but try. Kinda the similar symptoms but they can start and run it on alternative fuel so that's out of the question.

@cruisingforbaddrivers...8612

4 жыл бұрын

I was thinking, disconnect the exhaust manifold and give it a try.

@youraveragejoe7644

4 жыл бұрын

This is the problem! Clogged exhaust! Unhook from the cat forward and let her run! Cost $0 to test

@apachelives

4 жыл бұрын

Runs on starting fluid as mentioned so doubt it but its a free test so definitely do this.

@youraveragejoe7644

4 жыл бұрын

apachelives The starting fluid is MUCH more combustible than pump gas and requires less oxygen therefore less flow is required. My money is on clogged exhaust

Danger Ranger is always a fitting name for a small Ford truck that you have no idea what will happen next with. 😂

@iufan71

4 жыл бұрын

Isn't that what the Goonzquad called the ranger?

@D4x4Bronc

4 жыл бұрын

The danger is when it decided to never start again

@F6HemiCharger

4 жыл бұрын

Heath Har yes, but it’s not exclusive to them or original to them. I heard danger ranger 7 years ago, but I’m sure it’s been around longer than that.

Hey JR, I'm a 4 cylinder Ranger owner myself. They are known to have crappy connectors that corrode easily, so go through them with electrical cleaner and dielectric grease. My truck would sometimes accellerate by itself, or die when coming to a stop and having trouble starting back up. Ended up being corroded terminals at the TPS sensor. Otherwise, make sure your timing belt and marks are where they should be, and that the tensionner is doing its job. Good luck!!!

I work with a guy who just went through this with his old Ranger. It was the TPS. Truck runs great now.

hey did this ranger have an after market alarm installed.

@rwdplz1

4 жыл бұрын

THIS would actually make the most sense.

@TheFracturedRooster

4 жыл бұрын

Nope

@TheAwkwardBanana

4 жыл бұрын

@@anonymic79 Unless the alarm cuts off the fuel pump.

@Buttyshag

4 жыл бұрын

Yep, had this on a Peugeot estate - the key fob was damaged, it lost the pairing with the immobiliser, so would only run on easy start. Fixed the key for, re-paired it, started first attempt

@hungryhungryhummer

4 жыл бұрын

Haha! Ask Hoovie about that one 😂😂

I had a Ford ranger like 15 years ago do the same I had to clean the mass air sensor it finally started

@stephenmayer9228

4 жыл бұрын

He said he unplugged the mafs and that didn't fix it.

Immediately after the thing starts, try holding the ignition switch back toward start just enough that you’re holding tension, but not engaging the starter. If you can catch it just right and get it to run, it’s a bad ignition switch. Saw this in a late 80s Thunderbird that had my entire shop stumped until one guy accidentally figured it out. We could run the car around as long as you didn’t let go of the key. Changed the switch and it cured it.

Check timing belt, the cover is missing. Previous owner said it had been changed. If tension is not applied in the right place, the belt WILL jump a tooth when the tensioner is released!!

@erikv86

4 жыл бұрын

I was just thinking this

@kevinmcclure7551

4 жыл бұрын

A tooth or two off, she won’t run. Great minds think alike, they should check timing marks

@wakandaforever8265

5 ай бұрын

@@kevinmcclure7551shit happend to me this summer lmfao !

This is exactly why I converted my 86 2.3 ranger to a carburetor. Cost me like $150.

@slayerjohn447

4 жыл бұрын

This runs the Mazda 2.3. Those are very different engines. The 1986 didn't use a distributor less coil pack, it also didn't run 8 plugs in it. So the conversion will cost a bit more.

@headcas620

4 жыл бұрын

Slayer John no it doesnt. The Mazda engine started in 2003. These are the 2.3 lima (pinto).

@fomocowboy

4 жыл бұрын

@@slayerjohn447 I believe up until 1998 the 2.3's can be converted to run a carburetor. I think that's the year they did away with the distributor hole. The autolite 2100 definitely yields more power over the old EFI but also seems to use more fuel.

@fomocowboy

4 жыл бұрын

@@slayerjohn447 also, there's a video here on KZread where a feller converted an 8 plug head to run a carb, I think if you punch in "Ford efi delete" you'll find it.

@slayerjohn447

4 жыл бұрын

@@fomocowboy I didn't say it couldn't be done. I said it would cost more then $150 to make it happen.

take a minute...save an hour..check the ground....check the power!

@garionphx

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, check the ground strap to the engine.

@thomasmroz

4 жыл бұрын

Ran fine on the spray..

@jamesemir

4 жыл бұрын

Ran perfectly on starter fluid. Its a fuel issue. probably an emergency fuel cut off or the injectors are not firing in the correct order.

Love the icm replacement got my 88 ranger running and that went bad a couple days after

I had a similar problem on a Alero. It was also throwing a a/c code. Unplugged the compressor and it fired right up. The ECU wouldn't let run because of the a/c fault. It's worth a try.

@WatchJRGo haven't heard you say anything about checking the camshaft sensor. Had a 2000 Jeep that the camshaft sensor went bad & it did the same thing as your Ranger would start then die.

@oliverjantz1108

4 жыл бұрын

179kevin I don’t think this old engine has a cam sensor, just a crank sensor,

I’m one of the first to comment so maybe I’ll be lucky enough for him to see this. 😂 Hey man just wanted to say I absolutely love your videos, the style of content is absolutely perfect and it balances education with entertainment spectacularly. The audio quality is fantastic and your buddies always crack me up. Keep going cause I check everyday for a new video.

@GlycerinZ

4 жыл бұрын

I found this channel sometime last year. What I really like is that he does the work himself. He's up there with the likes of Ivan of Pine Hollow and Eric of South Main Auto.. also shout out to ScannerDanner, he's an EXPERT. Also Matt of Schrodinger's Box!! I admit I do like watching Scotty's videos. More just to hear his thoughts when people ask questions about issues they're having. But when I'm having my own issues, I head straight to ScannerDanner.

My dad had a similar issue with an old Toyota. He changed everything on the fuel and ignition side, and had a new ECU lined up only to find the ground wire to the ECU was bodged up and was causing an intermittent open. As soon as the starter shut off the ECU would freak out and kill the fuel pressure. Haltec also just did a vid on ground wires, so it might be something to look into.

I picked up a 2002 3.0 for cheap from the last of one of the repair shops passing the problem child around the town... The problem was fuse # 2 blown to ground. The shops had checked all the usual suspects, like the O.D. Cruse control wire over the column or the bed saddle rubbing wires to the brake lights. Or motor for the blower. And the thought was dead to ground somewhere in the wiring harnesses and for the price o paid I was willing to take that on if nessassary... At the end of the day, I traced the problem to the last thing you would ever think it to be... It was the inertia switch in the air bag module... The module is designed to ground out if triggered... Although the air bag never deployed, the switch did...

On this episode of watchjrgo I roll on a hoverboard

Does it have a idle air control valve? I had a 99 grand marquis that would do exactly what the ranger is doing so i cleaned the IAC and that fixed it

My 2000 Celica did start and run completely fine without crank position sensor. It did not start every time, but when it started, it was fine.

I had a 1989 2.3 efi with the double spark system with 5 speed trans. I went thru this too. I dropped it off at a shop and 650$ later it ended up being the wire harness over by the intake side. They had the noid lights on the injectors too and they went thru hell tracing wires in the harness. He showed me what it was and it was just one dinky wire that was broken somehow. Take a look at the 2 separate wire harness by the intake manifold against the firewall on driver side you will see 2 plugs and 2 seperate harness on that side. Unplug both and clean the connections and inspect for broken wires or corrosion and do some continuity testing. These 2 plugs have like 15 wires each. Also i have seen the computers go bad on these trucks many times. I know a few older mechanics that are close to 60 years old and they said that the OBD1 ford vehicles always suffered from wiring problems, pretty frequently too. also just because the fuel pump is running means nothing. You need to call ford and ask them what is the factory spec on fuel PSI and see what this new pump the guy put in the truck is putting out for PSI. I have seen even 5-10 psi difference cause problems.

Fix that A/C GROUND !!!!

Probably is Crank Position Sensor. If its aftermarket they are sometimes garbage.

@bryanyoung9482

4 жыл бұрын

Its runs on starting fluid so not crank sensor. If crank sensor was bad it wouldn't fire plugs or injectors.

@ jr I'm reading comments about inertia switch, I would check there. My pops dealt with fords before they got to the dealership (he drove them off train cars, they would get jarred during transit sometimes and trip that inertia switch), that was the first thing they'd check when car wouldn't start or would momentarily run. Also way back I had some piece of crap running vehicle, think it was my jeep cj5. Anyways I had a similar issue that turned out to be the key switch. When turned to the start position it would start but when the key went back to the run position it would die. Failed key switch was cutting the power to ignition coil in the run position. Good luck man, hope it turns out simple but no matter what, this ranger is gonna teach you something. Word brother.

Check for remains of a aftermarket alarm. Also it seems like it runs with the key in the start position. Could be a bad ignition switch. If you can kill power to the starter after it starts (pull fuse or small wire on the starter) see if it will continue to run with the key held in the start position.

ignition control module! my buddies did the same thing but his was a v6

@sagehitzig7737

4 жыл бұрын

just replace it not expensive trust me!!

@DudeNews1

4 жыл бұрын

Yup exactly what my Jeep was doing and it was a $30 fix lol

@zacharywelvaert2235

4 жыл бұрын

he replaced it already 11:00

@incautious1

4 жыл бұрын

being a Ford man, owning a 90's ranger was one of my big regrets. I read the comments and yeah, ICM did weird things, after market security system was fun, vacuum line deterioration plugging problems... These trucks were great when they were new, but after a 100,00 kms - they suck. IT TAKES A TON OF SPARK unless you rebuild and have perfect compression. Scrapping it was a huge relief.

@sagehitzig7737

4 жыл бұрын

heard that after I commented. He might of got a bad one from the store .

Fords have impact switches for fuel pumps down by kick panels on driver or passenger side of vehicle.

@robbyzipp7573

4 жыл бұрын

I think it’s the impact switch too.

@budyfixit

4 жыл бұрын

They've addressed that already

@WatchJRGo

4 жыл бұрын

Checked good, very first thing I tried 🍻

@budyfixit

4 жыл бұрын

@@WatchJRGo flux capacitor + 1.21 gigawatts = go back to when ford ran.

@ShinyRedGrapple

4 жыл бұрын

Inertia switch

Subbed Bc of the cheap cars keep them coming!!!!! I’ll watch all those

I don’t know who you are, what your channel normally is about but I saw the $300 ranger video and I’m hella invested in the story of this ranger lol

Might check the Cts (coolant temp. Sensor)

@TheAirSofterblaster200

4 жыл бұрын

G. S. Yes it would, because when you start a hot engine it uses less fuel, Had a 5.0 do it to me randomly truck would just crank, foot to the floor it started, helped some random guy out on the trail with his Jeep, same story it wouldn’t restart, would just spuder I told him hold it wide open and if it starts your coolant sensor is bed, that was it it started than, turns out the 4.0 was just a cluster duck of different parts from different years so nothing worked as it should

Elephant in the room - as you have air, fuel and spark - exhaust !!!!! The cat or muffler(s) have collapsed or are heavily restricted

@nicholasmackey593

4 жыл бұрын

Its a fuel problem cause it ran on starting fluid

@Mrflash222006

4 жыл бұрын

Nicholas Mackey due to the high octane and oxygen content it need less oxygen to burn than petrol (gas), They have proved it’s not fuel related

@nicholasmackey593

4 жыл бұрын

@@Mrflash222006 they havent proved it all they have proved was that the pump works fine amd the gas is probably old hense the reason why it wont burn properly

@Mrflash222006

4 жыл бұрын

Nicholas Mackey watch the last vid they dropped the fuel, the rail is clean the injector’s are flowing and the FPR has been changed, if you watch it fire the engine spins backwards for a brief moment that shows excessive back pressure

@wildbill23c

4 жыл бұрын

It would still start and run at idle with a clogged cat or otherwise restricted exhaust system. Had a similar issue with another Ranger same engine, never figured it out, sent it to the crusher, not worth the headache. These trucks are a dime a dozen they're all over the place.

The plot thickens!! In my (definitely non professional) opinion, it IS a fuel issue, but a fuel issue caused by the computer. In other words, you clearly checked that all the fuel components are physically okay, but when you spray starting fluid it runs! The fuel is cutting out right after it starts. My money is on some kind of anti theft or emergency fuel cut out or something like that. Looking forward to seeing what's next!

Check and clean grounds, dont miss one - free. Hard reset with ECU - free Looking forward to you finding this one out.

Its the flux capacitor

@YahshuamySovereign

27 күн бұрын

💯!

I had the same problem on a 1998 Rolls Canhardly and finally figured it was a bad muffler bearing.

@losthomas7589

4 жыл бұрын

David Pringle. Or low washer fluid?

@stickit2theman1

4 жыл бұрын

low blinker fluid

@fakiirification

4 жыл бұрын

@@losthomas7589 the inspection place failed my truck for low washer fluid light being on on the dash... turns out rain-x is a conspiracy by the replacement washer fluid sensor industry to make us all buy new sensors.

When I was a kid we had an Aerostar that started doing this exact thing. Dad replaced a bunch of stuff on it, no go. Finally they replaced some kind of module and that resolved it, it was not the ECU though. I wish I could remember what it was.

Many people are hovering around the right troubleshooting. If you look at the wiring diagrams the fuel / ignition side has other unique routes to a secondary relay or fuse (not the regular blade kind). somebody mention how the inertia switch has 2 wires/ circuits. The one that goes to the fuse box that wouldn't make sense that's the one that disables it. If you look at the diagram you'll see how it Loops through a couple of components.

Ask Scotty Kilmer, and he'll say it's a money pit get rid of it.

@mmoutdoors9606

4 жыл бұрын

He actually said Ford Rangers are good trucks.

Logic suggests it IS the fuel system. am I getting my videos confused, or didn't it start when you sprayed starter fluid in it?

@henryspas2641

4 жыл бұрын

This. Also check the com diode.

@henryspas2641

4 жыл бұрын

* pcm

@vincentbigras1515

4 жыл бұрын

i would like to see a video with a intake cleaner can spraying into the throttle body to see if the engine run good with a can spraying but all the video that i saw was start 1 sec and stall the other stuff that i didnt see is to jump the on position on the ignition key switch because sometime the start position is good on the switch but the on position doesnt keep the contact need some wiring schema reading on there maybe

@PapaVrooom

4 жыл бұрын

Same truck. Seemed to run like a champ for a while on the spray. Seems to be fuel starved... I know everything seems to be clean but, like you pointed out... it ran fine on the starter fluid.

@PapaVrooom

4 жыл бұрын

@@vincentbigras1515At 12:39 of the first vid it runs for more than a second, about 5 seconds from one spray, and longer than any other time in either vid...

I had a 94 Jeep Cherokee with the same problem, would not start. So a buddy of mine ran a wire from crank sensor straight to the battery. Fired right up. Turns out the ECU was bad and not sending 5volts to the crank sensor. I drove it around for a month till the ECU completely failed. Ended up replacing the ECU and its still driving today. Thought this might help you. Maybe not. worth a shot. Love the vids, watch all the time. Keep it up.

It reminds me of a Freightliner FL70 I worked on. Thing went to a handful of other shops to diagnose engine cutting out. Then eventually it would only run when you cranked it. Turned out to be a loose wire in the back of the fuse panel. And the engine coolant temperature sensor was sending different signals, so it wouldn’t light up the dash, but it would shut off the engine after a certain amount of time. Hope you figure it out soon.

Its possessed, hire a priest :) Actually I'm in the clogged cat group.

@ogrebeast64

4 жыл бұрын

You're gonna need an old Priest and a young Priest. ;)

@itsmephil2255

4 жыл бұрын

And a Judas Priest??

IAC Valve?

I had a car that came to me with the same problem, turned out to be the crank position sensor, the owner had wired it just as you described and it was jumping the signal at the splice. You may want to consider that.

The ignition switch is supplying power in the crank position only. More than likely it's cutting ignition power when you release the key back to the run position. The injectors may stop firing when you release the key back to run. I seriously doubt it's the TPS but that voltage is super easy to check with a multimeter and a couple small safety pins. Look for a smooth upward sweep of the voltage when you're SLOWLY opening the throttle. If there are any points where the voltage drops in the sweep, then the sensor is bad. I'd also check all grounds on the truck because the ECU uses grounds to switch circuits on and off. There are a lot of grounds on this truck. Rangers are all I've ever owned. 13 of them so far.

Add some BFGs on there before you sell it!

@swazi5

4 жыл бұрын

Idk if this truck is worthy lol

@aaroncastellanos3421

4 жыл бұрын

@@swazi5 lol maybe not but a little fixed up would be satisfying. He has the money why not.

Ask the Ford Expert. Brian @ FordTechMakuloco.

I like these videos - troubleshooting mechanics without the answer key of an obd II to tell what it is. Mystery puzzle!

Do not forget about the IAC. Idle air control valve. If it is clogged or bad, the engine will start for a second, then die. It controls the cold start idle.

Possibly coolant temp sensor. I know when they fail on a gm, the ecm thinks it is -34°, and adjusts the fuel air mixture to match.

@vikachan19

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, seems it could be a fuel/air issue - seems lean to me, but I know very little ^_^

@Mechanicalasshole

4 жыл бұрын

Yep, had this problem on a 91 s10 of mine. Same symptoms as this ranger when it happened

Why not double check the timing???

@rnthiphop

4 жыл бұрын

I guess because it ran well with starter fluid?

@austinpoeppelmeyer2174

4 жыл бұрын

@@rnthiphop On Fords, if the crank or cam sensor isn't reading correctly, do Fords kill the spark or the fuel? OHHH just thought about it, what about the inertia sensor going bad.... hmmm I think I'll need pop corn for this saga lol.

Check all your body grounds, had the same thing happen with a 96 F250 and found a heavily corroded (IE non existent) nobody ground. Replaced the connector and it ran great.

Thank you for the lighting

I've been screaming at my computer the last two videos. You have a plugged catalytic converter. Just unhook the exhaust ahead of the cat, I about guarantee it will run fine.

@WatchJRGo

4 жыл бұрын

That’s worth a shot! I’ll be home tomorrow and we’ll give it a try 🍻

@nickknight8065

4 жыл бұрын

I wondered the same

@budyfixit

4 жыл бұрын

That makes 3.

@mexicanspec

4 жыл бұрын

If that is the problem why did it run when starter fluid was sprayed in to it?

@sawinredneck

4 жыл бұрын

@@harborcbs it takes less air to run on starter fluid so it will run just a tick longer before plugging up. A friend of mine got burnt on this a year or so ago on a Ford Exploder. First shop threw the parts cannon at it, timing chain, ignition parts, ecu, etc., and told the customer the engine was bad. My friend got it, swapped the engine and it still wouldn't run, we went through everything, just like these videos, nothing, it would start, run, die and wouldn't run again for a few hours. He unhooked the exhaust and it fired right up and ran great.

clogged cat???

@caseybhargraves3696

4 жыл бұрын

Blake Medina That was going to be my suggestion too.

A lot of people have said clogged cat could be the problem. Easy test, unscrew the up stream o2 sensor. If it runs you found the problem.

hey rangers are something I know some about, wires! in every ranger 80 percent of problems are wires, I don't know why its 6 volt but the best place to check is under the drivers side of the truck theres a little box with wire conectrors in it if theres any water in there get it out and totally cleaned out, also put a better ground to the fuse box run a heavy gague wire from under the seat mount bolt to the fusebox grind the paint off and bolt it down tight! also follow every wire I had to totally take the dash and instrument panel out and found more un grounded wires there I did all these things to a ford ranger and drove it to Colorado from southcarolina and back it ran perfect,. also fullf take out the heater core it it burns out and it will it will also short out the timeing, but it will run those lil trucks are just full of shorts when they get older and things start to loosen up.! hope it helpfull

Gotta get used to pushing fords If not your not gonna get anywhere.

Love it! Nice job man

As the comment down below says there is a shock sensor for the fuel pump that can cause a start stall condition or a crank no start. Also the temperature sender can also cause a crank no start too. The ECM needs a value so it will substitute in -40 no matter what the temp actually is if the sender is bad. Keep in mind there is 2 senders. One for the gauge and another for the ECM. Tps volts had to be under 1 volt although it usually causes a high idle not a start stall.

Crank and Cam position sensors are reluctance based, hall effect sensors. Alteration to the wiring in those circuits can increase or decrease set resistance over the wires, and cause bad reading to ECM. Not as big an issue on more robust obd2 setups, but may be pissing off the obd2 network on the ranger.

Just a reminder...the truck ran great on brake cleaner/starting fluid in the first video. The issue IS fuel. If it runs great "on the spray can" then there has to be something wrong in the truck's fuel system. I couldn't tell much from the video but those injectors didn't look like they were spraying a whole lot of fuel, i.e. it is very lean. If you have some one that can flow-test those injectors, I would have it done. The symptoms you are seeing is from a lean condition, low fuel pressure, low fuel flow, something like that. My son's Sport Trac had 35-40lbs of fuel pressure (4.0L should have 55 or more), would crank and run, eventually, but if you touch the trottle, would bog and die out. His issue ended up being the fuel pressure regulator. The point is, it was too lean to run and exhibited the same conditions as the ranger. BTW, love this sort of video...

Well, it is very weird how the truck was able to run on starting fluid and run very well for that short period hence the possible fuel issue at the first. The fuel injectors in that era are finicky as hell. I had a magnum ski boat with an early lt1 chevy 350. Wont start, then tried to start just like yours did. The injectors were firing but apparantly not strong enough. Changed put all 8 delphi injectors from a caprice at the junkyard. Damn thing started right up and ran really well until it was sold a couple months later. Easy to get 4 good injectors from the yard. Cheap too in case all else fails. Good luck, dont let it defeat you.

Start-run-stall conditions are commonly caused by security lockout modes on newer cars but not as common on older model years like 1993. Might still be worth looking into though. Some vehicles have key transponders with a tiny battery and that battery goes dead.

Yessir keep up good work 💯💪🏾

Dad had the v6 version, begged to drive because it was surprisingly ok in the acceleration department. It will give a g35 a run for it's money.

Years ago an elderly lady friend of mine had a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee. When the battery was disconnected, and reconnected the alarm would come on. It did not beep like crazy when it happened, but the headlights kept blinking. When you would start the engine with the alarm on in it acted the same way as this Ranger does. Fires, and dies. Since there was no working remotes to shut off the alarm the only way it could be done is putting the key in the drivers door lock, and turning.

I read so many comments saying try this and mine did that but honestly guys! He did already do most of what you all suggested, so give it a rest. Let him get back to it. What I see here is someone throwing random parts at it left and right but not once does he use the proper equipment to diagnose it. This is exactly what every one of you out there are doing. Can you imagine how many shops would go out of business doing that? Even I know when to throw in the towel and flat bed a vehicle to someone with the proper test equipment. Where do you draw the line before giving up and admitting sometimes it's better just to take it to someone that has the proper equipment. A cheap vehicle that doesnt run is still just a boat anchor. Stop throwing parts at them people!

Awesome work thanks for the content

Try the ignition switch under the dash. That's a common problem on 90s mustang's . It will start and die as soon as you release the key. Try disconnecting the starter signal wire from the solenoid and hold key forward while someone jumps the solenoid

You guys really been thru everything! I used to have one of these back in the days, inline 4, and since this is old school is has a separate coil for all cylinders. Mine had a coil resistor that was mounted on the inside of the (left?) fender (ab 2 inch wide, rubber conn). It is equivalent to the old resistors that was mounted on the side of the coil in cars from the 70s. When mine broke i had the same problem, it fired and stalled. Borrowed one from a friends car, and it ran again. Apparantly it changes the spark from start-spark to go-spark, so to speak. Might be something?

Really long shot. But I saw this on VW Mk1 (aka rabbit) vehicles, also on the VW Polo. The fuel pump relay has a safety feature, it switches off if the engine isn't running, or if it thinks the engine isn't running. That's so that if you are in an accident, you don't spray fuel from a ruptured line into an accident scene. On the VW the relay control unit develops a dry joint and then the engine won't run. The system has an override for starting: The fuel pump always runs when the starter motor is running. The effect: It starts but dies the moment the key returns from Start -> On. One way to test it, bypass relay and check if it runs. This might also explain why the tests already done checks out. Of course there is fuel when you test it with the starter motor running, it is designed to do that. Check the fuel rail pressure and see if it drops the moment the engine fires, or put a test lamp on the fuel pump circuit and check if if it goes out. As I said though: This is a long shot. I don't know Ford and I generally avoid them and stick with Jap mobiles :-)

Friend had similar problem with a newer Ranger (OBD2). It would randomly not start. Thought it might of been factory anti-theft system. Turned out it was a bad gauge cluster. ECU needs the cluster, and it had some bad solder joints.