TRAGEDY ON THE NORTH FACE OF EIGER: Toni Kurz | LEFT TO DIE

Toni Kurz and his team set out to conquer the North Face of Mount Eiger. None of them returned. What happened to the climbers? Why was Toni left hanging of a cliff when rescue was so close?
If you liked this video, please feel free to like and subscribe!
And share the link with your friends: it helps a lot!
Thanks for watching!
Check out my true crime channel:
/ @archiestruecrime
Watch next:
A Mother Survived a Plane Crash in the Mountains: • INCREDIBLE MOUNTAIN SU...
Denali Disaster: • Denali 1967 Tragedy: T...
Mont Blanc Tragedy: • Freney 1961 Tragedy: W...
Other similar cases: • Mountaineering disasters
Music by CO.AG
/ @co.agmusic

Пікірлер: 303

  • @tomhutchins7495
    @tomhutchins7495 Жыл бұрын

    Back in the early 2000s I was skiing in Zermatt with my family and we saw a newspaper clipping on the hotel wall about the fastest ascent of the Matterhorn having been achieved by the father of the hotel owner. We got talking about it and it turned out that he was 14 and earning pocket money over the summer by running errands for climbers and guides. He kept pestering the guides to take him and eventually one agreed "but only if we can be quick". The guide set off at a jog on the lower slopes hoping to dissuade the annoying kid, but when they reached the top the guide realised how fast they had been and made sure they got back down fast too as the record was a "there-and-back". It was a different world back then.

  • @VMM34

    @VMM34

    Жыл бұрын

    How amazing! I love your story! 👍

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    Great story! Thank you!

  • @orfamayQ

    @orfamayQ

    Жыл бұрын

    That's one of those stories that if they go wrong, we watch a documentary about it and shudder at how anyone could have been so irresponsible and take a kid with them for something so dangerous.

  • @lawieckowski
    @lawieckowski Жыл бұрын

    This is certainly one of the most horrific mountaineering stories I've heard. I can't believe how close Toni was to being saved. Your videos are always so well done and produced, I am always excited to watch them. Keep up the great work!

  • @muchtested

    @muchtested

    Ай бұрын

    Toni did almost all the work to be saved. The rescuers did very little in comparison.

  • @ameisee4
    @ameisee4 Жыл бұрын

    Great video. Just one little addition: all the english videos on the Eiger north face seem to mention the fact that the locals allegedly call it the "Mordwand" (murder wall), though this name is more of a nickname and a pun on the "real" name that is used much more frequently in my experience - "Eiger Nordwand" (which just means north face). I am from the region btw.

  • @MrAsco95

    @MrAsco95

    Жыл бұрын

    Ha ig au grad wöue schribe^^

  • @gregkosinski2303

    @gregkosinski2303

    Жыл бұрын

    The press started calling it that in this period.

  • @ZombieMiezz

    @ZombieMiezz

    Жыл бұрын

    @@gregkosinski2303 Yeah but this is so long ago. I'm born in the 80s and only know it as Eiger Nordwand and not Mordwand. Never heard someone calling it that either before.

  • @AntelJM

    @AntelJM

    9 ай бұрын

    @@ZombieMiezzI’ve never heard it called that either. I think the people who want to, mishear the word ‘Nordwand’ so they can make comments complaining about something that isn’t a thing….

  • @user-up8jx3mt6j

    @user-up8jx3mt6j

    6 ай бұрын

    Courage is a friend to confidence, but always the most serious of enemies to arrogance.

  • @petenztube8592
    @petenztube8592 Жыл бұрын

    "Do you guys need any help?" "Nah, we're fine"

  • @crakkbone

    @crakkbone

    Жыл бұрын

    Jesus that’s funny.

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    I think there was a bit of a gap between "Nah, we're fine" and . And if they had asked for help, what - beyond endangering the lives of several guides - do you think could actually have been achieved?

  • @jez2466

    @jez2466

    6 ай бұрын

    can't see that the station master could have done anything to help them

  • @SSEi02

    @SSEi02

    Ай бұрын

    @@crakkboneNot that funny

  • @Yokozumas

    @Yokozumas

    Күн бұрын

    They never Said that

  • @littlemissgwendolen1466
    @littlemissgwendolen1466 Жыл бұрын

    Anytime I’m reminded of this story, it breaks my heart. He was so close to safety.

  • @jamesgraham6122
    @jamesgraham6122 Жыл бұрын

    By far the best depiction of that tragic event. I've always been fascinated by serious climbing.. I struggle to climb a step ladder! My life has been involved in serious sailing, often alone and later bush flying in some of the worlds most difficult and demanding areas and war zones, I've learned the limits of my capabilities the hard way. I came across the book, 'The White Spider', maybe 30 yrs ago and it has a prominent place in my library, I must have read it a dozen times. It's a book we can learn from, a book that opens our minds to our hidden selves and allows us to learn that we may be brave, and have above average talent, but that we each have our limits and recognizing just how close we are to those limits, and acting accordingly, will, or should, get us back safe.

  • @georgittesingbiel219

    @georgittesingbiel219

    Жыл бұрын

    Interesting...

  • @Northbriton

    @Northbriton

    Жыл бұрын

    i love the white spider such a great book at showing the successes failures and dangers

  • @peterjohnson617

    @peterjohnson617

    Жыл бұрын

    best book about climbing that I have read.

  • @UnlistedChannel932
    @UnlistedChannel932 Жыл бұрын

    I have heard this story twice before, but this is by far the best explanation and helped me understand how they died so close to safety. Thank you.

  • @weirddreams7003
    @weirddreams7003 Жыл бұрын

    I remember reading about Tony Kurtz's party in The Climb Up to Hell by Jack Olsen - one of many books about The Eiger. Pretty chilling that he got so close to rescue after surviving a night hanging off the side of the mountain, only to die just a few meters above his rescuers' heads. The main story in that book was about the Italian climber Claudio Corti, who in 1957 was rescued through a massive effort on the part of about 50 volunteers; they built a sort of pulley mechanism to get him off the wall and back on solid ground. The Swiss guides were still sitting out North Face rescues at the time and got a lot of heat over their decision.

  • @kdfulton3152
    @kdfulton3152 Жыл бұрын

    I am absolutely terrified of heights! But thanks to “Archie’s Archive”, I can see the beauty and dangers of mountain climbing from a very low seat. 🤷‍♀️ 🌻

  • @peterguirguess853

    @peterguirguess853

    Жыл бұрын

    @scorpio1317 àu

  • @raymondgradojr9093

    @raymondgradojr9093

    Жыл бұрын

    Lmao

  • @Jeff-jl2xc

    @Jeff-jl2xc

    Жыл бұрын

    But you don't really get to experience it

  • @israelizzyyarrashamiaak766

    @israelizzyyarrashamiaak766

    Жыл бұрын

    Warm seat as well 😱😱😱

  • @RightsForZombies
    @RightsForZombies Жыл бұрын

    It's so sad that their overconfidence almost certainly doomed them all. Given the conditions it's possible that something could have gone wrong and all would have died even if they'd mentioned their injured friend and asked to be rescued, but it seems fairly unlikely. Sometimes watching mountaineering videos I'm almost brought to tears by the beauty of the view from mountain summits and the sadness that I couldn't climb them due to my physical disability. I can't even climb the hill right outside my door. It's not a very high summit, only 500m, but it's got the second-highest difficulty rating due to the steepness and rough terrain. It still gives lovely views though, and it's part of what motivates me with my physiotherapy. It would be the dream of a lifetime to summit an actual mountain, any mountain, really.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    I once climbed what to me was a pretty tough hill. It's on Mayne Island, on Canada's west coast, just N of the American San Juan Islands. Real mountaineers would likely call it a pimple, but the view was just spectacular! I could see out over the other nearby islands and the ocean, probably almost to Seattle, with Vancouver in the distance on 1 side and Victoria on the other, but mainly the incredible blue of a very calm ocean. That blue just can't be duplicated on a video or tv screen. I still dream of it, so many decades later. It came as a complete surprise to me, and I was mesmerized by it for hours! Being from the centre of the Canadian prairies, I had never seen anything like it. I've done all-day hikes in the Rockies to much higher altitudes, to places where I was on the highest peak around, and I looked down on all the other peaks surrounding us. That was really amazing, but it was nothing compared to the majesty of that view over the Pacific ocean! I did realize when I arrived at the top that there is a road up, leading to an antennae, but I wouldn't have driven up anyway. (It might have a locked gate at the bottom. I don't know.) I love hiking so much! But sadly, the circumstances have robbed me of chances to do much of it, among other things that I also wanted so badly to do. Those circumstances that prevented me include health problems, with associated disabilities, so my heart goes out to you! I hope so much that you will be able to accomplish your goals! I don't know where you are, but if you ever find yourself in Vancouver or Victoria, it's only a short ferry boat ride to Mayne Island. As I said, if you need to, you might be able to drive up to the top of Mount ____. It's a view that everyone really should see! It's even more beautiful than the view on the opposite side of Canada from the top of Signal Hill, in St John's Newfoundland. And that's saying one hell of a lot! Hundreds trek up there every day to see that view, and it is spectacular, but it's still not as breathtaking as the view from the top of Mayne Island that almost no-one knows about or sees! I really wish you all the best, and I hope you can have many happy climbs! It sounds to me like you have a fantastic attitude, so you will get to as great or greater heights than other people with the same unfortunate trouble. Many good wishes to you for many hours and days of sunshine and fair weather! All the best of luck to you! ❤❤❤

  • @davymckeown4577
    @davymckeown4577 Жыл бұрын

    It's important to acknowledge that much of what happened to Kurtz and his party, the avalanche, the decisions they made and their reasons for doing so are not known. During the most critical phase of their retreat, they were obscured from view because of the weather. The guides who attempted to rescue Kurtz did have a rope long enough, however this was dropped on the way and for this reason they joined two shorter ropes together. Kurtz would have needed to unclip himself from the rope in order to get the knot through his carabiner, the same reason Joe Simpson almost died on Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes. His life, (Simpson's) was saved unintentionally by his climbing partner, Simon Yates cutting the rope. The 2008 movie North Face is a thrilling, if somewhat dramatic account of the May 1936 attempt on the Eiger. Touching the Void is a docudrama based on Simpsons book of the same name, which tells the story of his survival after a fall which shattered one of his legs, the rescue attempt by Yates and a second fall into a crevasse caused when Yates cut his belay rope. Both are worth a watch for anyone interested in mountaineering but preferring the comfort of their living room.

  • @OmosThings

    @OmosThings

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the additional info as well as the recommendations. I just finished watching North Face and yes it is definitely worth the watch! I will look into the other one for sure

  • @davymckeown4577

    @davymckeown4577

    Жыл бұрын

    @@OmosThings Glad you enjoyed it.

  • @pageribe2399

    @pageribe2399

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the recommendation! I don't climb myself, but I enjoy reading about those who do.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    I wonder if any of this was also recreated in the movie The Eiger Sanction. I believe it was a spy movie, starring Clint Eastwood, so it probably had no true elements in it. It's been many decades since I saw it. Along with trying to find the ones you mentioned, I will add Eiger Sanction to that list. Thank you for the names and info.

  • @mjleger4555
    @mjleger4555 Жыл бұрын

    I have acrophobia, which my physician father diagnosed in me at age 4! Daddy loved to hike up to places and stand on the edge and enjoy the wide expanse of the world below! He tried to get me to go to the edge but I wouldn't, until he made me and I literally crawled out to him and climbed up hanging onto his leg for dear life! I learned to fly to conquer that fear and it did help a lot, but I still can't stand on the edge of anything without a rail, because it feels like it's pulling me off the edge! But being 1k to1500' up in the sky following the coast down is something I love; I've never felt so FREE in my life as I do, alone, way up in the sky, when I have "slipped the surly bonds of Earth" and that may seem strange for an acrophobic, but I guess I trust the motor and my flying skills! I've skied mountains for years, but I won't go near the edge there either!

  • @Celisar1

    @Celisar1

    Жыл бұрын

    Great move of a parent to mark a child with a diagnosis and thereby ensuring not only the permanence of a fear but also labelling the child as sick.

  • @RightsForZombies

    @RightsForZombies

    Жыл бұрын

    Oh wow, that's awful, that must have been so scary as a kid! Congrats on conquering your fear! I'm not afraid of heights, but I am scared of the vertigo that can happen at any time if you're looking down at a big drop. It can happen even if you're sitting on the edge of one, and maybe that's part of what makes you feel 'pulled' towards the edge, it could be mild vertigo making you feel slightly disoriented.

  • @mjleger4555

    @mjleger4555

    Жыл бұрын

    @@RightsForZombies Vertigo is physical reaction where acrophobia is mental, however, the brain is vulnerable to your thinking so they can go hand in hand. If I stood by the floor to ceiling window in my high-rise office building, I could look OUT at the beautiful bay and loved the view, but if I stood close to the window and looked DOWN, I got that familiar queasy feeling, but it's more fear than vertigo, although they can go hand in hand! Queasy is more nausea than vertigo, but it's hard to tell the difference when it is affecting you! It is more the fear of falling for me, so I don't actually get nauseated looking down because I look away before nausea sets in; it's more vertigo I guess! But it's immediately correctable by NOT looking down! I'm far more affected standing on the edge of something than at a window, the edge of a huge drop-off and I get that horrible "pulling me off" feeling, it's difficult to describe but frightening, where looking down from a window isn't as bad because it is a barrier. I used to ski all over the world but NEVER off trail like they do today, so I wasn't usually at the edge of a mountain, and wasn't bothered a lot by it. I was also a high-diver (platform) unto the pool, and that didn't bother me a lot, but I stood in the sun once for 45 minutes and got sunburned, trying to get the nerve up to jump off into the river below. It was probably about 70' or so, maybe more, but it did sting just a bit when you hit the water! Later, there was a boy I knew who dived off that same perch, hit his head on the bottom and was, tragically, a paraplegic afterwards.

  • @missJolie85

    @missJolie85

    Жыл бұрын

    This is a normal phobia, a lot of people have it

  • @mjleger4555

    @mjleger4555

    Жыл бұрын

    @@missJolie85 Well aware of that. Did you know that even newborns have an innate fear of falling? That's essentially what acrophobia is, a fear of heights yes, but why? It's the innate fear of falling off a height, of course! There are literally hundreds of phobias and they all have a name! Some are real, some are imagined, and some can interfere with a normal life, but nearly all phobias are treatable, (most mental disorders are!) to the extent that a person can live a normal life with their phobia or they can get over it. I learned to fly an aircraft to help my acrophobia, and it did. I can stand next to a huge drop now IF there is a rail or structure or something for me to hang onto, minus that, if I'm standing on the edge of a cliff with nothing between me and the vast space below me, then I get that old familiar "pulling me off" feeling that I detest. Many years ago, I went up in a high tower (over 2,000') not something the public could do but my friend was an acquaintance of the man who maintained the tower so we 3 went up a very small elevator to the top, and the closeness in the elevator bothered me as much as the height. Getting out of your comfort zone can happen in many situations and many of the fears are normal. It becomes a phobia when you cannot control the fear.

  • @ZombieSazza
    @ZombieSazza Жыл бұрын

    Hearing that the station master gave them the opportunity to seek help, that he asked if they needed assistance, that saddens me. Surely your survival is more important than your pride?

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    It seems unlikely that, had they asked for help, it would have made any difference. What could the guides have done if they had arrived earlier? They couldn't climb directly up to where Kurz was stranded and it would have already been too late in the day for them to follow the ascent route in order to approach from above, even if that were possible; conditions were bad, and the climbing was quite likely beyond their capabilities. And, of course, at the time of the first communication between the climbers and von Allmen the initial accident that led to Kurz's predicament had yet to occur; they quite possibly thought that they still had everything under control and would be able to complete an ordered retreat to the Stollenloch.

  • @justineseitzinger5340
    @justineseitzinger5340 Жыл бұрын

    Hearing what his last words were is absolutely heartbreaking, I cannot even begin to imagine. I think of certain tasks I've attempted to accomplish in my life thus far, and that feeling of despair that has washed over me when I've faced failure rather than success. Yet, their significance and that feeling of my impending doom in those situations doesn't even compare to how poor Toni must have felt while dangling there, knowing his salvation was so unbelievably close and yet just out of reach 😞. And thinking about it now, I would argue that that feeling may just be the worst feeling a human being can experience. Ugh. And while it's not relevant, I can't help but to notice how handsome he was in his photos. To be so young, fearless and handsome only to die the way he did, it's just like a character straight out of some tragic fictional story. Sigh 😥Bless all four of them.

  • @pageribe2399

    @pageribe2399

    Жыл бұрын

    I think the worst feeling would be to find oneself trapped under water in a cave.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    @@pageribe2399 I'm also more afraid of water than of falling, but freezing is right up there too! Basically, I don't care about dying, but I'm scared as shit of sufferring. The faster I go the better!

  • @eliskakordulova
    @eliskakordulova Жыл бұрын

    This was really interesting. I've been to Bern but never heard about this mountain or these stories. How people gathered around to drink tea and watch people climb is both strange and comical. And thanks for including both the metric system an the US one, very considerate.

  • @Xsksnssjccxghb
    @Xsksnssjccxghb Жыл бұрын

    Very underrated disaster documentary channel. I hope you get more recognition

  • @twistoffate4791

    @twistoffate4791

    Жыл бұрын

    He has a lot of mean, rude, subscribers, and some choose to go where people are respectful. Or at least more respectful.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    @@twistoffate4791 Really? About what? Why would they be here and not elsewhere? I'm just asking, not baiting you. I'm just legitimately curious. I'm new here, but I did sub, and I like reading comments, but I don't want to be subjected to abuse, or even just to read it. It drags me down. So please give me a short reply, just a few words is good. Thank you very much! ✌🏼

  • @IR240474
    @IR240474 Жыл бұрын

    The mountains call you like a siren in the sea. Mount Everest called me, so I went to base camp. I climbed Mont Blanc and a few others. I have been watching these videos in the last day or two and I am glad to be in my Kitchen having a cuppa tea, thinking about the deaths I saw in the mountains, I also lost a friend to Kilimanjaro. But the view, we do it for the view, the personal challenge, and sitting on top of the world with a cuppa tea looking over creation is captivating.

  • @dbuck5350
    @dbuck5350 Жыл бұрын

    Clint Eastwood made the Eiger famous to movie-goes in the mid-70s with his movie "The Eiger Sanction."

  • @vindictivetiger
    @vindictivetiger Жыл бұрын

    The verse is “pride goes before destruction; and the haughty spirit before the fall”.

  • @JohnMatthewVO
    @JohnMatthewVO Жыл бұрын

    Also note that the Eigerwand (where the window in the North Face is located) is 2865 meters above sea level. Probably he meant 450 meters above the base of the face or the town.

  • @nomdaploom
    @nomdaploom Жыл бұрын

    To give some perspective to how mountaineering has progressed since these earlier times, in 2015 the Swiss mountaineer Ueli Steck solo climbed the North Face of the Eiger in just 2 hours 22 minutes and 50 seconds.

  • @johannakadar4314

    @johannakadar4314

    Жыл бұрын

    Woooowww how?

  • @johannakadar4314

    @johannakadar4314

    Жыл бұрын

    I mean its so cool and unbelivable

  • @kenboulder212

    @kenboulder212

    Жыл бұрын

    With a drone.

  • @missJolie85

    @missJolie85

    Жыл бұрын

    @@kenboulder212 Stop disrepecting

  • @kenboulder212

    @kenboulder212

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@missJolie85 WTF you want from me?

  • @JPatrickT12
    @JPatrickT12 Жыл бұрын

    Great work on this one! The graphics work was creative- I appreciate the quality!

  • @ladybugmom10
    @ladybugmom10 Жыл бұрын

    Honestly I have no respect or admiration for those who are stupid enough to attempt a climb after so many had perished. I don’t care if they succeed or not. Ego and arrogance is a man’s worst enemy. Such an extremely sad story.

  • @davidwebb4228

    @davidwebb4228

    Жыл бұрын

    Two had perished before them!

  • @glendabarton1914

    @glendabarton1914

    Жыл бұрын

    It's called hubris.

  • @steveinthemountains8264
    @steveinthemountains826411 ай бұрын

    Great job producing this video. The story was wonderfully told!

  • @thecreoleladyy7191
    @thecreoleladyy7191 Жыл бұрын

    At work at my desk, happily helping my wonderful customers, while listening to the serene sounds of Archie’s Archive 😊❤

  • @theresachung703
    @theresachung7035 ай бұрын

    What a great informative video. I loved the illustration which made me understand better!

  • @camerongrant9356
    @camerongrant93568 ай бұрын

    The movie “The North Face” will be one of the best subtitle movies you ever watch

  • @terryblack2844
    @terryblack2844 Жыл бұрын

    Thank you from Dallas Texas sharing this excellent documentary

  • @ralfkohler3671
    @ralfkohler3671 Жыл бұрын

    As someone who knows the story: you, Sir, did an absolutely incredible job with this video. Hats off!

  • @lynnebarkas6906
    @lynnebarkas6906 Жыл бұрын

    There is a book called White Spider all about assents of the north face in which Tony features. Great read one of the most moving books I’ve read.

  • @anniegetchergun
    @anniegetchergun Жыл бұрын

    I heard about the Eiger in 1975 after watching "The Eiger Sanction"..... It's a fantastic, terrifying, gripping movie. I've seen it several times (Clint Eastwood fan) and it still terrifies me!

  • @whathappenedwas7083
    @whathappenedwas7083 Жыл бұрын

    Always love the story telling , however I still have to speed it up one click to be able to enjoy it.

  • @lilheinz9496
    @lilheinz9496 Жыл бұрын

    What a bunch of genius these guys were. Unbelievable that they survived as long as they did I really couldn’t believe my ears when u said the station master was yellin at them asking for help and they didn’t even care enough bout the poor dude to tell them they were carrying an injured man. The level of arrogant idiocy required for all this mess to happen is actualy kinda infuriating and makes me really sad to think about how many chances they had been given to be potentially able for everyone to make it out and back home and instead they just spat in the face of god and luck and kept on being moronic till it was too late. Only when one man was left and the bravado if manly stupidity wore off enough to ask for help. Sad. Just sad.

  • @andythoms8130

    @andythoms8130

    Жыл бұрын

    How did they know all the details of the climbers Injury and such , did one do a journal. I never heard it mentioned.

  • @Itried20takennames

    @Itried20takennames

    7 ай бұрын

    At your level of writing, don’t think you are in a position to call anyone a moron,etc. unless English is not your first language. And….were you there? How accurate do you think most YT videos summaries are, given that the YT algorithm rewards creators for putting out many videos quickly, not for attention to detail. Many YT videos just re-hash Wikipedia and other videos, and given these events were decades ago and mostly described in second stories to newspaper reporters with a deadline….we don’t really know the details here and a single YT video is not “research.” And once a mistake is said in one video or other source…it is repeated by others as “fact.” For example, in the Elisa Lam/Cecil Hotel case, saw an interview where a hotel staff person said that when he first got to the water tank, he was 100% sure the lid to the tank was open. Most stories and news on the case said this, but one story incorrectly said the lid was closed, and because that made the case a better “mystery,” now most YT videos on the event say the lid of the water tank was closed….which was not reality according to those there.

  • @rocnoir4233

    @rocnoir4233

    2 ай бұрын

    They were some of the greatest climbers of their time. Sounds like you need to take a chill pill and do a bit of light reading on what actually happened.

  • @carmendaniel3734
    @carmendaniel3734 Жыл бұрын

    The mountains are so beautiful. I can see how people can be addicted to climbing them. I spent some time in Berchtesgaden. The mountains are just gorgeous. Obersalzberg was great with Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle's Nest). ❤❤❤❤❤

  • @lyrahostetter6006
    @lyrahostetter6006 Жыл бұрын

    Just wanted to say how much I've been loving your channel for the past year or so--I grew up climbing Colorado's 14ers with my dad and very much enjoy hearing these wild and crazy stories, especially as told by you. You have a wonderful voice and such a careful yet exciting way of narrating!

  • @lapensulo4684
    @lapensulo4684 Жыл бұрын

    Summiting is one of the coolest feelings ever. I boxed and used to fight the main event and summiting is like fighting the main event.

  • @deniseelsworth7816
    @deniseelsworth7816 Жыл бұрын

    When the locals call it death wall you really should take the hint.

  • @ashleydaniel3215
    @ashleydaniel3215 Жыл бұрын

    Trying to prevent the ghosts of the dead climbers from haunting their exhausted brains. 🥶 Chillingly descriptive

  • @tm13tube
    @tm13tube Жыл бұрын

    I read this in the past. It still haunts me.

  • @miroslavzima8856
    @miroslavzima88569 ай бұрын

    Granted, thanks to such people we made stride in exploration and knowledge... but this is real madness!

  • @bretgreen5314
    @bretgreen531419 күн бұрын

    Nice documentary. I am currently reading Dougal Haston's "In High Places," and the chapters on Eiger's North Face are most interesting.

  • @ttmallard
    @ttmallard Жыл бұрын

    He wasn't exactly left to die, he was being rescued, he was above the traverse where ropes are left today to downclimb this, a tension traverse climbing it. The sad reality, the rescuers had to join two ropes, Toni was too spent to work the knots through and died of exhaustion & cold above them. It was such a tragedy in many ways yet showed the need for return ropes to all that followed, this early in European climbing history before pitons were used for aid or bolting such blank rock, they used nailed boots & woolens, I wore knickers & knee socks with Pivetta kluttershoes as a teen, he was a hero in trying, to just having nothing left. Many memories, I bought a signed copy of Heinrich Harrer's The White Spider as a teen in St. Moritz, worth reading ...

  • @sethcashman1011
    @sethcashman10116 ай бұрын

    Thanks for this! There were some details (and photos) herein of which I wasn't previously aware. What makes this story even more terrible is that, apparently, one member of the rescue team (I don't know if it was Arnold Glatthard or one of the others) apparenty had extra rope with him, but accidently dropped it down the face. A series of unfortunate events, indeed.

  • @carmendaniel3734
    @carmendaniel3734 Жыл бұрын

    I'm in awe of mountain climbers. I went to The North Face Store once. Lol. This is so interesting. Your research and videos are top-notch. I just subscribed. Sending much Aloha from Honolulu. 🌺

  • @robertlee4809

    @robertlee4809

    Жыл бұрын

    The North Face Store was too far and snakey for me...had to come in from the west..😏🤣🤣🤣

  • @esta1ful
    @esta1ful Жыл бұрын

    Tony Kurtz “went down in history” for sure!

  • @HaesslichG
    @HaesslichG Жыл бұрын

    22:59 - the moment everyone was doomed.

  • @aonghusofaolain8686

    @aonghusofaolain8686

    Жыл бұрын

    Absolutely

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    Such unbelievable and inexcusable arrogance and stupidity! I can't get over it!

  • @bingsballyhoo711
    @bingsballyhoo711 Жыл бұрын

    I get doing what you love, but you have to feel for their poor families.

  • @anastasijajelic3298
    @anastasijajelic3298 Жыл бұрын

    It is not worth it...they think it is worth it until they got stuck in the mountain and then they cry for help and expecting that someone else risk their life to save them.......

  • @heide9755
    @heide9755 Жыл бұрын

    This is so tragic, so sad.... RIP, dear men.....

  • @lennarthagen3638
    @lennarthagen3638 Жыл бұрын

    Eiger north is terrifying(and beautiful) just looking at.

  • @philippal8666
    @philippal8666 Жыл бұрын

    Yup… you can livestream climbers from the ground. They can probably get better phone signal than you, and, unless they need rescue from the exact point where the train tunnel goes through, there’s nothing you can do. It’s a sort of ‘what did people do before the internet… buy binoculars and either watch or be watched.

  • @ameisee4
    @ameisee4 Жыл бұрын

    I am a simple person: I see an archies video, I click

  • @candiceriter7878

    @candiceriter7878

    Жыл бұрын

    Meeee too

  • @sirandrelefaedelinoge

    @sirandrelefaedelinoge

    Жыл бұрын

    That's original

  • @CrunchyTire

    @CrunchyTire

    Жыл бұрын

    Very simple indeed. Cant even come up with an original comment. But hey you found the keyboard so props to you

  • @compassioncampaigner728

    @compassioncampaigner728

    Жыл бұрын

    @@CrunchyTire Lots of comment.....on the contrary Too subtle a package

  • @peterwilcox1520

    @peterwilcox1520

    Жыл бұрын

    Ya

  • @glengrieve544
    @glengrieve544 Жыл бұрын

    So close and yet so far rest in eternal peace beautiful boy's

  • @desertliving3668
    @desertliving3668 Жыл бұрын

    I am struck by how many elements of this story were used in the movie “The Eiger Sanction”. Clearly not the same, but similar enough to make me think the writers were inspired by the true story.

  • @gregkosinski2303

    @gregkosinski2303

    Жыл бұрын

    One writer. Of course he was. Heavily inspired by The White Spider.

  • @kevinmalone3210

    @kevinmalone3210

    Жыл бұрын

    They copied the climb that Kurtz participated in. I can see alot of similarities.

  • @sirandrelefaedelinoge
    @sirandrelefaedelinoge Жыл бұрын

    A flat cap and plus fours seems like a perfect climbing outfit

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    What on earth are those?

  • @sirandrelefaedelinoge

    @sirandrelefaedelinoge

    Жыл бұрын

    @@cattymajiv what is Google?

  • @twobreadtom
    @twobreadtom11 ай бұрын

    holy shit this is one of the most intense things i've ever heard

  • @schipperkeandcats3469
    @schipperkeandcats346910 ай бұрын

    Whats up with so many arrogant climbers in these type of stories about tragic events honestly what is wrong with asking for help or turning back

  • @miamivicemami
    @miamivicemami8 ай бұрын

    There’s a movie about this, my mom showed it to me as a kid. Brutal

  • @engespress
    @engespress Жыл бұрын

    They always maket the mistake of underestimating the weather in these climbing tragedies. Underpreparation is also a problem. Not enough ropes. Or long-enough ropes. It's all in the preparation and forecasting of the weather.

  • @HadridarMatramen

    @HadridarMatramen

    Жыл бұрын

    I don't think climbers back in the 1930s had acces to very reliable weather forecasts... In his documentary about the 1961 Mont Blanc tragedy - more than 20 years AFTER this tragic incident - Archie said that climbers in those days had to rely on charts and knowledge of local weather norms: it's not like they carried radios or phones! Kurtz and Hinterstosser and the other two probably couldn't just check the newspaper and see that a summer storm was incoming within the next couple of days... And they couldn't know that they should have left the rope at that dangerous passage; that passage was named after Hinterstosser! No one knew yet that that might be the difference between life and death; bringing the rope with them in case they needed it higher up on the uncharted slope *made sense* based on the limited data they did have! It's very easy to speak of underpreparation and underestimating the weather nowadays - the actions of reckless adventurers like these are the basis that provide data for the things we DO know now. They did not have the advantages that we do nowadays.

  • @johnrudy9404
    @johnrudy9404 Жыл бұрын

    Cant imagine the nerve. Aside from other climbers, you're just a footnote eventually. Better to fail and live.

  • @fetus2280
    @fetus2280 Жыл бұрын

    We have had Cold weather clothing for millions of years mate ... They had all they needed and chose otherwise . People had been climbing mountains for thousands upon thousands of years in animal skins.. the Andes were populated and climbed like it was nothing for them, so its bizarre to me why you would even say that they didnt have these things ? Thats like saying Eskimos cant live in the arctic because they dont have clothing to wear.. we figured this one before we were fully upright ... These blokes were just bell ends..

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    Your comment is ridiculous, absurd, and ludicrous.

  • @fetus2280

    @fetus2280

    Жыл бұрын

    @@cattymajiv How so? Where am I Wrong?

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    @@fetus2280 I don't know why I'm even bothering to aswer such a ludricrous question. Cavemen didn't have any modern equipment or techniques. If you can't figure that out you're not equipped to survive in today's environment. Or any environment. Darwin's principal will get you really soon.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    @@fetus2280 On second reading Ican see your point, in spite of the fact it's not presented clearly at all. Yes, of course they chose their clothing poorly. Thousands of Europeans have died in places that were survivable if they had chosen to follow the example of the aboriginal inhabitants. But aborginal people have always been to smart to climb mountains for no reason but "fun" so nobody had yet developed effective climing gear and clothing. They used what seemed to be the best available, and they would possibly have died even today. Rock strikes still kill people. That, a storm, and their own judgement were what caused this all. So the clothing of Neaderthals is not relevant. Cavemen did not climb rocks and ice.

  • @stelun56
    @stelun566 ай бұрын

    even after getting up K2 The Eiger sends shudders down one's spine

  • @gregkosinski2303
    @gregkosinski2303 Жыл бұрын

    Well now that we know what happened to Toni Kurtz, I’d like to hear about what became of that Hitler fellow referenced at 9:44.

  • @omniexistus
    @omniexistus Жыл бұрын

    10:05 "were young"...at that's 1936...time sure is a strange thing when put into perspective.

  • @bonefetcherbrimley7740
    @bonefetcherbrimley7740 Жыл бұрын

    22:59 And just like that, my sympathy evaporates. What the hell were they thinking??

  • @silentbliss7666

    @silentbliss7666

    Жыл бұрын

    I had the same initial response as yours. But after some thought I can understand why ...

  • @randomcomment6068

    @randomcomment6068

    Жыл бұрын

    @@silentbliss7666 Let us know someday.

  • @MyJourneyOM
    @MyJourneyOM Жыл бұрын

    Why I'm the world would they say they don't need help. Baffles me. Pride and ego should not be a Thing in an emergency situation. So sad. I feel for them at the sametime. Those times must of been rough , No modern gear, Just iron balls. Decades later and they are still remembered. Salute

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    Perhaps they thought that outside help simply wasn't a possibility, and that at the time of their exchange with von Allmen they would still be able to get themselves down.

  • @Logai74
    @Logai747 ай бұрын

    I am not hanging of the wall of the Eiger, with all of my friends dead and exausted, BUT what if Kurz would have tied a big knot on the end of the rope and unhooked the carabiner and placed it beneath the knot and just fallen down, to where the rescuers could reach him, and hoped that the fall wouldn't kill him.

  • @TraumaPunksMamiMusic
    @TraumaPunksMamiMusic Жыл бұрын

    The german word Mord means murder, not death!

  • @nischaltemp
    @nischaltemp9 ай бұрын

    What an amazing channel, I'm lost in these stories

  • @LathropLdST
    @LathropLdST Жыл бұрын

    "No! We do not need any help. Not like we have an injured man on our party" "PLEASE HELP ME! HELP! DON'T LEAVE ME ALONE!" ...someone could not make his mind, could he...

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    On the first occasion they had other options - options which didn't need to include asking others to risk their lives on their behalf. On the second occasion, after a catastrophic accident had left the other three dead or dying, Kurz had no other options. And, of course, it may not have been Kurz who replied on the first occasion.

  • @mlembrant
    @mlembrant Жыл бұрын

    this must have been horrible.. imagine getting all this way up and then have your skull crushed like that.. :(

  • @dax5791
    @dax57913 ай бұрын

    German here. "Mordwand" is more like "murder wall" than "death wall". Which makes it even more scary, honestly.

  • @Daisy-tp2vu
    @Daisy-tp2vu10 ай бұрын

    Just horrible. An exquisite tragedy.

  • @JJJJJJJJJJ124
    @JJJJJJJJJJ124 Жыл бұрын

    Evil to keep going with a winded man, ego

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    Do you mean with a wounded man?

  • @kevinmalone3210
    @kevinmalone3210 Жыл бұрын

    After watching this story of these four courageous climbers that Kurtz was part of, I realize that Clint Eastwood's movie, The Eiger Sanction, copied the climb of the Eiger in the movie, from this actual climb from the 30s.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    I was wondering about that, and I mentioned it in a comment above. It's been so long since I saw that, so I can't remember any details. TES must have been made in the mid 70s.

  • @kaizersoze
    @kaizersoze Жыл бұрын

    All 4 dead yet so many facts about the trip up to be told! Reminds me why I should listen to celebrities talk about politics. There's just NO WAY these people would tell a lie to create some content. Right g0ys?

  • @Frosti12
    @Frosti12 Жыл бұрын

    I don't get why they didn't say they had a wounded with them, they could have all survived. This is a lesson, don't be over confident in ur capabilities people, the arm of flesh will surely fail you.

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    How would that have made any difference?

  • @Frosti12

    @Frosti12

    11 ай бұрын

    @@ip2862 Watch the video again and then u will know.

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    @@Frosti12 Better yet, why don't you explain? If von Allmen had indeed phoned down to Eigergletscher Station, after his first communication with the climbers, with the news that they were descending but that one of them was injured, what could have been done quickly enough to prevent what happened next? When he actually did phone a couple of hours later it seems to have been pure luck that the three guides were there and could immediately respond; that might not have been the case earlier. But if they had been there - then what? Considering the time it would have taken to get up the tunnel to the Stollenloch and traverse across and up to the location below Kurz that they reached the following day, the accident that occurred before von Allmen's second communication would have already happened. As it was, the three guides only managed to traverse a couple of ropelengths before being forced back by the degree of stonefall; by then it was getting dark. Had they arrived earlier and persisted despite the danger - what then? The whole procedure with cutting and unlaying the rope took a couple of hours, so probably not enough daylight for that. Would the guides have been able to get back to the Stollenloch themselves, or been forced to bivouac? Would they, too, have become casualties? Would you like to take us through your version of what would have happened had Angerer's injury been mentioned?

  • @glennmurray.
    @glennmurray. Жыл бұрын

    If the ropes were left on the face they could have got back after they crossed.

  • @creativitycell
    @creativitycell Жыл бұрын

    U climb mountains, u accept the risks. I don't even think rescue attempts should be made. 🙏

  • @twistoffate4791

    @twistoffate4791

    Жыл бұрын

    Maybe someday you'll need help, but no one helps, and you'll die a slow, agonizingly painful death.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    Their families would disagree, but I do see where you're coming from.

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    Holidaymakers go swimming in the sea; they presumably accept the risks. Some get into trouble and need rescuing. Do you think they should be left to their fate?

  • @BurroGirl
    @BurroGirl Жыл бұрын

    Where is Archie from? I keep trying to place his accent and I can't come up with the origin.

  • @b08bydigital

    @b08bydigital

    3 ай бұрын

    I think it's AI. It's actually what I'm trying to figure out right now too, which is why I'm reading the comments! The reason that I think it's AI, is because of the pronunciation of some words, like "understood"- in no accent, or dialect, does one pronounce it like understewed.

  • @louismasar6147
    @louismasar6147 Жыл бұрын

    It’s not mt eiger. It’s The Eiger. Its like saying mt midoriama when -ama already means mountain

  • @CrunchyTire

    @CrunchyTire

    Жыл бұрын

    Is there an ATM Machine on Mt Midoriama?

  • @ritaalder7728
    @ritaalder7728 Жыл бұрын

    I watched a movie made of that story. But in my memory they were more than 4 people in that same ascent?

  • @mad-pit3832
    @mad-pit3832 Жыл бұрын

    Loads of people no about this mountain, to say we have probably never herd of it is ludicrous. You only have to no a little bit about mountains in Europe yo have herd of this one, especially after what crazy ulei achieved. I’ve never even been near a mountain and am aware of it if it isn’t for the fact it has a train station/tunnel half way up it. This was a great video though.

  • @TheManisha97
    @TheManisha97 Жыл бұрын

  • @greendiamondglow
    @greendiamondglow8 ай бұрын

    Mountain climbing seems like a really dramatic way of committing suicide

  • @hepaticapropria
    @hepaticapropria Жыл бұрын

    I can’t believe their arrogance facing salvation!!!!

  • @tomhutchins7495
    @tomhutchins7495 Жыл бұрын

    Just a piece of trivia: members of the group which finally climbed the Nordwall would summit another significant mountain a few years later: Mount Elbrus in the then-USSR and the tallest in the Caucasus. However this time Hitler was less pleased because Fall Blau, the great summer campaign of 1942 was heading for disaster as it would fall just short of its objectives of the Caucasus oilfields and the Volga bank at Stalingrad. Despite the trivial nature of the climb Hitler was enraged by what he saw as "a sideshow" and evidence that the military wasn't taking the war seriously enough.

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    11 ай бұрын

    Is this possible? Of the four who first climbed the Eigerwand in 1938, Harrer went on an expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1939, was captured and interned in India by the British, escaped in 1944 and spent the next seven years in Tibet - and Vörg was killed on the Russian front in 1941. Heckmair served on the Russian front in the early part of the war and subsequently closer to home as a mountain training instructor - but doesn't mention Elbrus at all in the chapter of My Life as a Mountaineer which deals with that time. No idea about Kasparek.

  • @tuankhong5104
    @tuankhong5104 Жыл бұрын

    The movie North Face is based on this event.

  • @yvette8492
    @yvette8492 Жыл бұрын

    Should of gone back when their friend got hit in the head!! RIP

  • @marlsberlin7716
    @marlsberlin7716 Жыл бұрын

    "Their hairs stand on end because" of static electricity caused by the incoming ice storm. There are physical and down to earth reasons for these tragedies in the mountains. Let's not over-romanticize them.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    There is also physical reaction, pretty much the same as when your "skin crawls."

  • @jenniferbreaux7385
    @jenniferbreaux73853 ай бұрын

    I'd only heard of bc of the movie Roger Sanction

  • @deenibeeniable
    @deenibeeniable11 ай бұрын

    These days climbers would scramble to the summit & leave their comrades to die.

  • @nikodroste742
    @nikodroste742 Жыл бұрын

    In English it's called "Murder Wall". Mord Wand: Mord = Murder

  • @anthonywilliams9852
    @anthonywilliams9852 Жыл бұрын

    I've seen the movie.

  • @Kroggnagch
    @Kroggnagch7 күн бұрын

    Hmm. Climb it during monsoon. Yknow, since youre doing the north face anyways... might as well.

  • @JC_303
    @JC_3035 ай бұрын

    2:33 the Eiger is over 75km from Bern!

  • @CrowSpirit1977
    @CrowSpirit1977 Жыл бұрын

    Certain death🤔 Heck yeah.. Sign me up for that🖒

  • @shinebassist
    @shinebassist Жыл бұрын

    Noone calls it "mount Eiger". its the Eiger

  • @peterjohnson617
    @peterjohnson617 Жыл бұрын

    the title makes it sound as if it were someone else at fault here. There is but one person here to point the finger of blame at.

  • @bepowerification
    @bepowerification Жыл бұрын

    Well.. if you call it "the eiger" people wont know it. But "north face" is much more famous. Its even written on every other hitchhikers jacket.

  • @eliskakordulova

    @eliskakordulova

    Жыл бұрын

    THIS is the mountain the brand is named after? I haven't realized till now, thanks!

  • @bepowerification

    @bepowerification

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@eliskakordulova ok, I should've googled it before commenting. I am biased because I am european and when I read/hear north face I immediately think of the Eiger. but apperently it is named after the north face of Half Dome in Yosemite which is also their icon and north faces in general. my bad.

  • @cattymajiv

    @cattymajiv

    Жыл бұрын

    @@eliskakordulova There are thousands of north faces, and hundreds of them are famous, but most people don't know the name of any mountain, except very rarely when an American one has been in the news recently. So Everest is the only mountain that has universal recognition. Even Denali, Mt St Helens, K2, the Matterhorn, etc are not household names. North face was just a catchy sounding name, and they needed something that refers to the outdoors. That was the most likely phrase that would be recognized by Americans, who are so insulated from anything that's not also American. ⛏🗻🌋⛈⚡☔💧❄