Outstanding presentation all around, I have not seen a full wire rope splice like that since I was 14. I worked on a two masted tops’l schooner, traditionally rigged with the exception of bottle screws instead of dead eyes. I remember working with the man who did the splices for our standing rigging, I remember the 5 gal buckets of lard we used to grease the rigging and then wrapping it in canvas and then creosote impregnated jute that we wrapped around the standing rigging. I learned a lot from those shipwrights in England and there’s no life quite like that of a sailor! I wish I could come be your 57 year old apprentice! 🤣 liked and subscribed sir! 🇺🇸⚓️💪👊

Nice job. I use the vice grips too!

The spike can disrupt the passivated surface but I would be a lot more worried about 302/304 going active (rusting) than, like you say, the 316. Anyone who is worried about it can easily passivate the spliced area afterwards with ospho, then washing it out with fresh water. You don't even need to get the leather wet, and you don't need to induce any current. I used to include the core like Brion Toss told us to, but decided that it works better for me if I just leave it out. My reason is that it displaces the strands less if it isn't up in there at all, bc it's the deformation that makes any splice weaker (when splicing fibre braid or 3strand, my tapers are ridiculously long and gradual for the same reason). Like you said, the weakest part is in the standing part of the wire, just outside the splice taper ends. Otherwise my liverpools start a lot like Brion's, going in the same cut under three, under two, and under one With The Lay, and the only ATL being the fourth strand in the first available cut to the left of those. Your Board of Trade splice is gorgeous, as well as being westcoast enough to also lock. I am definitely going to try and copy your splice first chance I get. Admittedly, you kind of lost me on where 4 starts, but I will figure it out! I remember reading an old WW2 Navy Bulletin which describes "ribboning" the strands and the way it improves the strength by deforming everything less. Thank you for stressing that the standing part should not be too slack, lest the splice ends up with a curl. As an aside, anyone trying this should consider that these days, turnbuckles are really made for 1x19, in that they can end up being too short for 7x7 stretch, so try and get the longest ones you can find, not the newer "half-turnbuckles". Best thing I learned was the way you turned a bronze thimble into a tool. I recently started using Maffioli polyester hand sewing twine and trust me it is every bit as great as the 462 and 9C we are addicted to (Not Slippery!!) and it comes in more colors. Never dreamed the day would come when I wished I had bought up all the Italian Hemp (balls) marline (the kind that had the real Stockholm smell) that I could find, but hindsight's perfect i guess. I use 6-7 Latigo; what kind of leather do you like? Thank You Myles.

Where can I find the video with the thimble spliced into the eye? I haven’t done a wire splice for some years so looking at stirring the grey matter. Great video.

@offcenterharbor

5 ай бұрын

Glad you liked it! You can more of this series at the link in the description. "Seizing a Thimble in a Wire Grommet" is part 11.

1 under 1 and 2 W/Lay Does W/Lay here mean Wire/Lay?And I can't see the rest clearly. Can you tell me in the comments?

i have some wire rope for my rig. prefer splicing to crimp fittings. the wire is made up of a core.....then 9 thin strands then on the outside 9 thicker strands. how would i go about multi layer like that? then wire rope is 10mm thick in total.

Would you like me to show you how to splice a thimble into wire rope

@frankgraham3490

11 ай бұрын

Thank you for the demonstration to splice thimble .