thats very generous of you to share with us this step by step video ,, i know it takes a very Patient man to do all that hard work and get perfect video for all the steps ,, all the best to you sir

Sudden new respect for auto mechanics after watching this.

Bravo! This guy has the Passion,the Grace and the Balls to do a very difficult job and explain each step in detail. Worthy of a subscription and a thumbs up!

I found this video because The Car Care Nut mentioned that someone on KZread did a 2gr engine removal without a car lift. Very impressive what you have done: both the fact that you did it, and that you caught the eye of a big time youtuber (a professional Toyota certified mechanic with a working shop) .

'09 Lexus RX 350 AWD. Solid video! Most things seem just about spot on for my scenario. One big difference is the trans. AWD owners may need to work Park and neutral for disconnecting the front half shaft (I like to keep my cars in Park with the brake set as much as possible for safety reasons, once the shaft is disconnected Park won't matter). You'll also need to lift the rear of the car for disassembly. After removing the bolts within reach. You'll need to make sure the trans is in neutral and the parking brake is released to turn the rear wheels by hand. This will turn the shaft to access the others. Then, set the parking brake and trans to Park in order to remove the bolts. I thought I could perform the half shaft and converter disconnection in unison. As opposed to a clutch, torque converters are hydraulic components. If there is no fluid and the engine isn't spinning at a certain rpm, there's no pressure to provide resistance. Like the steering shaft, mark orientation on both shafts before removal for reassembly. The half shaft will slide out from the rear of the trans once disconnected. Gear oil will pour from the transfer case. Have a pan ready to catch any spillage. If you can, try to drain transfer case prior. This will prevent any spillage during shaft removal and later during engine removal. At that point you can remove the shift cable. You may want to leave the parking brake set after that. It will help engine clearance to lower the back of the vehicle upon removal. Further, while removing the converter bolts, remove the three 14mm bolts connecting the engine to the bell housing. If I recall correctly, these are the only three that require removal from the engine side. There are the two on either side of the trans cover, then another up and back toward the transfer case. I was able to use a ratchet and some elbow grease for the first two. The last one is hard to reach and there isn't enough space for a 1/4" ratchet. It will require a standard (or possibly ratcheting) 14mm wrench along with some elbow grease and a bit of patience. I skimmed back through the trans converter section and didn't happen to notice a mention of it in the video. Once I had my subframe out and ready for engine removal, I realized I would have to raise the subframe back up to reach them. I managed get it back up, but not before a potentially costly mistake. I tried lifting with my only two floor jacks available before placing them on stands, the subframe rocked of the jacks and fell a short distance, but hard enough to bend a vehicle dolly at one of the casters. I managed to get it back up with the help of an engine hoist and two 300lb cargo straps. hopefully the rest of the driveline and subframe is still in good shape. For the intermediate exhaust pipes, clearance between the engine cradle and transfer case is tight. There are two pieces (one for each bank). You have to remove both piece by piece. I disconnected the front, then the rear. Then, I pulled the rear section out to access the front. Pull the front section back with the newly available working space, then slip out between the subframe. I managed to purge the coolant valve on the front of the block. The back appears to be impossible with the additional equipment from AWD. I will try to purge the rear after removal of the engine, or if I'm lucky, the rear section of mid pipe. The fuel line has two connections. The blue connector by the fuel rails, and a yellow one over the trans, just to the right of the steering column, connected to the metal section of the line. After removing the blue, I realized the mid section might interfere with removal, so I reconnected the blue and disconnected the yellow. I purchased my replacement 2GR from an rx350 with 78k in California. I don't know anything about California emissions equipment, but I do know they are more stringent than my region. Hopefully any additional emissions equipment is tied to the intake, exhaust and computer. All of that will be retained from my vehicle. With any luck the original block is still in good shape and I'll be able to rebuild for the next time. Computer harnesses will require full glove box removal in the RX. Gently pry on the bottom panel below the glove box door to access the bottom left bolt (10mm if I remember correctly). Bottom right bolt is behind the plastic "rocker panel" running up the front of the passenger door to the glove box. You can Gently pry away from the door jam to expose the bolt. You can just barely fit a 1/4" drive ratchet and short (10mm) socket to remove (a slimmer 10mm wrench would help prevent breakage of the panel, but require more patience). Then remove the two Phillip's screws at the top left and right. If necessary open the glove box door and turn the two swing stops then disengage for full box door articulation. I don't think it's necessary. I only did so before realizing the glove box had a back wall. It's a good idea to be mindful of the box door return cable, glove box light harness, harness for the bottom panel and any connections for the airbag, but they don't really interfere. I have the three harnesses running to the bottom three ports of the computer, then a brown and blue harness to the right. I had to remove the vinyl insulator sleeve to clear the port to the engine bay. Just enough space in between the computer and the fan box. You'll have to do a little digging for snags as you feed the harness out. Fuse box in the engine bay is nearly the same as the video. I had to remove two harnesses behind the headlight. I believe these are for the adaptive lighting. It appears the passenger headlight harness runs along the firewall from the fuse box. With any luck I can avoid removing that harness. I see one line so far up front for the power steering. Looks like the return line. I see the main line running to the pump. The feed line runs up and over the back side of the engine (metal line with a foil insulator sleeve just along the back of the engine running up from the pump, then bare line above and running down by the steering shaft input). The line is free from the body, but may interfere with removal depending on how high you can manage to lift the vehicle. Once you have the engine down, you may be able to disconnect at the mounting brackets and wiggle it through. I had to pull the engine and trans dipsticks, as well as a coil harness, or two. Just a few minor differences nearly half way into my engine swap. I admit this is a rather extensive comment. I tried searching for removal videos for the RX to no avail. I just wanted to document my findings for anyone in a similar situation. I couldn't get the top bracket of the "front" mount off (passenger side mounts to front of motor). If you disconnect the front subframe mount and rear passenger side mount (17mm by power steering pump) then lift the engine, this will release the top bracket of the mount. This video has been an excellent resource! Thanks for the help!

The video was uploaded in 2016 for a 2009 Toyota Sienna!! Why on Earth such a strong engine needs to be removed after only 8 years in service???

I just ran across this video. Don't need to swap a Toyota engine, but the video is so well done I watched it anyway. No game show host personalities or loud blaring music. Very nice job! Thank you.

I watched the video this morning as a "pre game" warm-up....... I ended up pulling the engine/trans/subframe and everything else in about 6 hours. Geez what an ordeal. Thankfully, I have my own lift and was able to lift the van up & away from everything......I'm swapping this V6 engine into my little 3 door manual trans Rav4. 💀😆😁

I think this is the most in-depth video I have ever seen for a specific vehicle. I can’t really put into words how impressed I am at the quality and thoroughness of this. Very well done sir. Very well done.

Sir. You are without doubt, the best presenter. You were patient, procedural and you described every step with clarity. Thank you very much. I am going to watch it, over and over again.

amazing video! finally someone who is not so in love with his own voice he makes a 20 minute video last 2 hours!

Your video helped me tremendously! Thank you for sharing! One a little hint for other viewers - when I disconnected something (pipes, connectors, clips etc.) I put two same numbers on each end. It makes it a lot easier to reconnect them back. Also take many pictures and do the video!

Your videos were a godsend. I had a mechanic do my swap and didn't label anything. Your videos helped me find exactly where everything needed to go.

Thank you for the video on the engine..watched video several times

Good stuff man, your gonna make me a lot of money at the shop on these. I appreciate you taking the time to log this and give advice. Subscriber earned

Props to you for doing it all by yourself while still filming everything! Excellent video.

Man I’m impressed. I thought it would be impossible to remove the 2gre-fe engine at home but I have been proved wrong. Great job

Great video. Not many engine removal videos out there would show details such as bolts inside the transmission must also removed to fully disconnect the engine from transmission . They usually just show the steps where engine is separated from the transmission and lack the details. I'm not doing the engine removal on my car but its definitely a pleasure watching your work. Thanks man

Great video! Thanks for letting me know the piece of steel I drove over ten years

Good video, well shot and clear audio nice job.