Make sure your top thread is above the presser foot. Your timing looks okay, but when the foot advances it breaks the thread if the foot is on the top thread. Making sure the top thread was not being captured by the presser foot solved all my problems.

to add to my comment below, to adjust for the industrial needle which do not have a 'flat' for orient the needle to the bobbin, you need to raise or lower the needle bar til the hook contacts the scarf correctly. I like to set my scarf where it's very so much slightly to the 'back' so the clearance between the needle is max'ed at this point, seems to pick up the thread better when set this way. Any timing or sewing machine videos will give insight into how a machine should work. And all the sewing machines work basically the same way. So understanding how machines work, adjusting, setting tension, etc. will benefit you in knowing how to correct these problems. I did a rebuild on an old Singer 31-15 years ago that my mother gave me before she passed and it took me months to 'learn' how to time, adjust, etc. to get it to sew. But now it will sew upholstery material and never miss a stitch.The Chinese Cobbler was the same, only it only took me a few days to get everything working correctly.

@enyawdnitram185

Жыл бұрын

It worked. I lowered the needle to point I can feel the tip through that hole under the bobbin shuttle/casing. It picked up the bobbin thread. Thanks so much.

Thank you all for sharing your tips. For me, my thread was fraying and breaking before the needle. I removed the needle plunger tube thingy and used a fine dremel bit to debur and round all of the super sharp edges. Worked!

@paca_bill4863

2 жыл бұрын

Just got my machine a week ago, and I've had it apart after watching all the different videos. I found 1) sharp burr on the inside of the needle tube - ground that down smooth 2) needle depth too shallow - set it lower so the bobbin would pick it up 3) timing camshafts were off - had to adjust them a bit so all the moving parts were in good timing 4) the bobbin drive bar was not set correctly - adjusted that so the bobbin was in the correct position 5) the bobbin thread did not have enough tension, so was pulling up through the fabric - figured out the thread had to go under the bobbin tension spring to maintain proper tension (I know others said they removed theirs with no problem, but I found it to be a necessary part) 6) moving parts were coated with thick grease - cleaned it off, and applied silicone grease sparingly at contact points only 7) lots of rough finish pieces making contact with each other - sanded/polished what I could, installed some Teflon washers where needed. It still needs some more work, but it's a great feeling when the thing actually stiches like its supposed to. Also, my Optivisor is now my best friend (now I can see all those little parts :) )

Anyone having this same issue here's how I solved it: First I swapped out the thread that came with it and used an upholstery thread (issue continued), then I moved my needle down in the needle holder thing a few different lengths and I twisted the needle a tiny bit to align the eye straight on with the arm that holds the bobbin. It took a few tries, experiments and it didn't seem to get any better, only worse. Then I guess I hit the sweet spot and it just started working like a charm. My experience was needle height and eye orientation. It took me about an hour trying different heights and I adjusted the eye orientation once (and got lucky).

@wilsonm59

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the video and information. Similar problem here. I'm not understanding what you mean by "align the eye straight on with the arm". Not sure what you are calling the "arm". Thanks for any help.

@uwould21

3 жыл бұрын

How did you adjust the height of the needle?

@enyawdnitram185

Жыл бұрын

It worked. I lowered the needle to point I can feel the tip through that hole under the bobbin shuttle/casing. It picked up the bobbin thread. Thanks so much.

Your tensioners are too loose it’s feeding too much thread which makes it go on the Underneath the bobbin carrier and breaks your thread good luck sir

@rxses9691

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you this helped fix mine

Remove the remaining piece of broken bobbin tension spring the broken edge is cutting the thread. I removed the spring entirely and the machine worked fine except when using very thin thread to remedy this I made a spring from a very thin piece of plastic never had any more issues

I had the same issue....solved it by sanding the bottom of the tube where the cotton comes out....the groove had burs on it....

Spring is broke on the bobbin shuttle... The little screw holding down the flat spring, Half of the spring is gone... 2:07 on the vid...

@moonolyth

3 жыл бұрын

Hell yes !!

this can also be caused by mismatched thread to needle size. I've found that when this happens to me, a larger needle (for me) solves the issue 100% of the time. In your case though, I'd get a new bobbin carrier tension assembly from bantam tack and possibly a new bobbin carrier as well - just to be on the safe side

@enyawdnitram185

Жыл бұрын

It worked. I lowered the needle to point I can feel the tip through that hole under the bobbin shuttle/casing. It picked up the bobbin thread. Thanks so much.

I notice that your needle tube is about 1/8" clearance on the top. The timing process is critical, the bobbin carrier is involved, but so is the needle depth. If the needle tube is set very close at the top the needle is potentially going to deep which causes it not to pull the stitches tight allowing thread in the bobbin to get caught leading to a jam breaking the upper thread. Try setting the needle tube 1/4" at the top instead of 1/8". If you set the need tube too high the needle will not pick up the bobbin thread. Set it as high as the tube will go and still pick up the bobbin thread. Hope this helps

@tubber106

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you this fixed my problem

@enyawdnitram185

Жыл бұрын

It worked. I lowered the needle to point I can feel the tip through that hole under the bobbin shuttle/casing. It picked up the bobbin thread. Thanks so much.

If you rotate the hand crank clockwise and stop the handle exactly at 12 o'clock, the center of the "half moon" of the bobbin carrier should be pointing at 3 o'clock.

I know it’s counter intuitive you think that you should tighten the tensioners when breaking the thread. but when they’s to much thread going underneath the carrier and it breaks the thread.

Thanks for your video. I have a new machine and I'm in the same spot you're in. I /we have to just keep adjusting to make it right.

PS. There's A LOT of places the thread can get caught on - and break. Watch every inch along the path carefully. It might just be something stupid, or a burr where you'd never expect it or can hardly see it.

DO NOT USE THE THREAD THAT CAME WITH IT. It's junk will break everytime you use it. Go by you some

Hello. Perhaps you can help. I bought the Chinese shoe patch machine in October of 2022. I spent a month watching videos, etc. For some reason I could not get the machine to pick up the bobbin thread. So frustrated I put in the closet for a year. Pulled it out recently, and finally fixed the bobbin thread issue. Once the bobbin pickup worked, then I had an issue of the upper thread breaking. Watched some more videos, and did some intense sanding of all the bobbin parts. That stopped the breaking. Now, the thread is too loose. Before I just immediately tighten the bobbin spring, can you tell what would be causing the bottom thread to be too loose on my finished tests?

Thank you very mutch

Are you using the same weight thread at top and bottom? This is how I solved my breaking issues.

Things to know: any machine, singer, Chinese cobbler, it doesn't matter, will break thread if the tension isn't correct. The correct tension is when the top thread is pulled tight into the material. The bottom tension just needs to be tight enough to pull the thread flat on the bottom of the stitch. To adjust the tension, I use a trick of black thread on top and brown on bottom so I can see it the thread is pulling up slightly into the material on the bottom. If the top tension is wrong there will be loops on the bottom, or thread will break. I took my Dremel tool and ground all the parts that might be close to the needle(where it goes thru the top plate, the groove that goes down next to the shuttle) anyplace that might touch or rub the string.I wanted mine to be able to use a #25 industrial needle for the largest thread I'll use. I can sew now with heavy or light string with no problems. But I mainly wanted this machine to do only heavy thread so that's what I tuned it to. If you watch other's videos you will see that the top tension will break the thread if you do not pull slack between the 'spring' guide and the tensionor with your finger. The workings of the machine should do this automatically when using it. The tips on setting the bobbin to hit the Scarf correctly, use a marker to 'draw' a line on the needle in the center of the Scarf and have your 'tip' of the bobbin holder This link discusses various issues when sewing. www.thesprucecrafts.com/guide-to-fix-your-sewing-machine-2978388

I have the same issue and may have fixed it. First, don't use the cheap thread supplied with the machine. Second and more important I rotated the needle around a degree or two to make sure the needle eye is exactly opposite the machine arm (that holds the bobbin). I did this via the clamp screw at the top of the needle holding rod. I got this advice from a general industrial sewing machine set up video and it seems to work. Before I got only one or two stitches, now I get a few minutes of sewing and broken thread is from the cheapness of my thread I think now (has fluff around needle hole from it starting to fray, where as before it was ripped apart right at the needle eye when the needle was down inside the bobbin carrier). Thirdly, I cut the tensioner spring to remove two turns at the small end and then bent the end with needle pliers to make a new locating section so would fit again in the sliced bolt mount. Now I have better control of the tension and it is not so damn tight all the time. Fourthly I mounted my thread on a stick above the machine and not on the bolt sticking up from it. This also helped a lot with reducing over tension of the thread. Hope this helps, Mat.

@gtcreels532

5 жыл бұрын

Tin Hat Productions I’ll try again thx

@EuniceIsurswtheart

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Mat, none of these things are helping me, suggestions?

Neddle wrong set up. Try to rotate neddle 180 grad and then rotate main neddle shaft holder a little clockwise and a little counter clock wise. It should solve your issue.

Get some braided fishing line, 30 lb test, and sand down the corners of the bobbin, problem solved

These things suck to get going but will work and work well eventually - if you have the patience. You might be able to pick up that bobbin thread easier when the presser foot is in the down position (don't let it catch underneath and cut your thread). Also, crank the wheel to where the handle is in the 12:00 position. If you look at the shuttle, the thing the bobbin wheel sits on, make sure the "wall" if you will, the tallest part of the shuttle, is placed in the THREE o'clock position. That's your starting point. And- like Tin Hat mentioned, don't use the thread it came with. It MIGHT work, but you'll be lucky if it does. Go to a sewing store and tell them you want the kind of thread that is impossible to break with your bare hands. I forget what it's called, but if they're not idiots they'll know what you want. YOU CANNOT BREAK IT with your bare hands. Your fingers will end up on the floor before that shit breaks. I just sewed a half inch of leather. i used #18 needles. You can get get them at 10 for $1:00.

@enyawdnitram185

Жыл бұрын

It worked. I lowered the needle to point I can feel the tip through that hole under the bobbin shuttle/casing. It picked up the bobbin thread. Thanks so much.

@mikeg3774

Жыл бұрын

@@enyawdnitram185 Thanks for letting me know. : )

Same issue, rotated the needle flat side towards screw which is counter intuitive and it was fixed. No other changes.

What type and size of thread and needle size do you use please

Not enough tension on your thread

I wanted to say that I put a lot of attention on the thread and that cured it. Sounds counterintuitive, but it worked.

Did you ever get a solution because I’m experiencing the same problem you are having right now? Thanks

@matfowler

5 жыл бұрын

See my comment above. The needle eye has to be exactly in line with the direction of the arm of the machine (that holds the bobbin).

I'm having a lot of the same issues, been trying every tutorial I can find, still not working. I have come to figure it's a gamble, you either get one that works or you wasted money

I gotta say that thread looks a little light weight for a cobbler machine. Have you tried a stronger/leather grade thread that needs a lot more tension before it breaks. It’s the kind that before it breaks, it would cut your finger open if you tried to break it by hand.

@nayt7357

3 жыл бұрын

Hey, do you know what its called? And do you think it will work on thick leather. For example sewing fabric onto leather shoes? Thank you :)

@christianmichael1970

3 жыл бұрын

@@nayt7357 this link should get you started. Not all thread (called leather thread) will do. You have to read the small print or make sure in the description it mentions heavy materials. Hope it helps and good luck www.amazon.com/Selric-1500Yards-Available-Resistant-Upholstery/dp/B06Y5V3W25/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=leather+shoe+grade+sewing+thread&qid=1608416654&s=arts-crafts&sr=1-6

@nayt7357

3 жыл бұрын

@@christianmichael1970 thanks so much!

I bought one of these machines and it won't thread at all it won't can you send me a video on what to do so it can thread

Ive found that pulling the tail back with some decent tension at least the first several stitches keeps it from breaking. I have the EXACT same issue. Just got my machine about a month ago so thats the only work around ive found.

This is why I'm not sure if I should buy one of these. I know zip about sewing.

I enjoyed the video. Yet, I'm still frustrated. I will try to use the proper terms. I made sure the crank nob is at 12 o'clock, and made sure the bobbin holder's back wall is facing right. I put the bobbin thread through the first hole closest to the spring. I pulled the thread through the top hole that is lined up with the bottom hole. I got the thread behind the spread. I tested the bobbin shuttle and the end of that bobbin gear is flush with that hole on the left of the bobbin shuttle when the crack nob is at 3 o'clock. That vertical thread shaft top is at 1/4 inch protruding out the top. I sanded all the bobbins, bobbin holder, and shuttle area. On the hand crank, I made sure bobbin shuttle notch is in the middle grove, and the other gear notch is in the outer grove. I made sure that little notch in the middle is lined up with that small notch on the hand crank. So here is what happens when I crank the machine to pick up the bobbin thread. The bobbin thread is not moving so the needle could pick it up. So I removed the bobbin cover and test cracked it. The bobbin is moving properly. I put the cover back on and held the bobbin with a little tension. The thread is moving but still not picking up. I'm clueless.

@swaybelly3212

Жыл бұрын

Make sure the needle just -barely- touches a finger at the bottom hole when the needle is at the lowest point in the cycle. This helped my machine once I had verified the timing was correct.

@enyawdnitram185

Жыл бұрын

@@swaybelly3212 You're a genius. It worked. I lowered the needle to point I can feel the tip through that hole under the bobbin shuttle/casing. It picked up the bobbin thread. Thanks so much.

@swaybelly3212

Жыл бұрын

@@enyawdnitram185 Glad it helped.

Check needle height .... the flat just before the eye should be dead center and flush to thimble cylinder in lower jaw. Adjust needle ram accordingly. us a magnifying glass. You can also adjust the needle to the cylinder outer circumference by loosening the lower jaw (3 bolts) … moving to or from ever so slightly and get that needle very close. Then check the Needle at its resting point ..when it is waiting for the hook.. just before it lifts the carriage edge should be just about over the needle when coming around but not touching… yours looks like it jumps forward and could be catching pinching the thread between needle and carriage edge... snapping. I just fixed that on mine. If you retard it to much.. away from needle just before lift... during final rotation the loop going over parts may not make it at least half way and again catch, break. Lastly it could be the tension-er on hook that may need cleaning buffing. I had same problem till I adjusted the carriage just right and moved my needle close but not touching the turning parts On center height wise and flat flush to cylinder. One last thing square the needle no the shaft holding .. the fastener nut is way of center on mine. Any way good luck I spent 5 hrs figuring this out not to say its right but it works very well now. the 9 o'clock / 12 o'clock method will get you close.

I just lowered the needle. Using the adjustment.

@nayt7357

3 жыл бұрын

Did this work for you?

Looks like your needle is really close to the right side of you presser foot.I was fraying and breaking thread on mine and noticed the same thing.Took presser foot off and filed all sharp edges.Put foot back on and tighten screws making sure that the needle ran in the middle of foot hole.Problem solved.

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video youtube .. chinese shoe patcher bobbin driver alignment . that's will be u answer. it was mine too.

Your bobin holder is out of time. Set handle at 12 and bobin at 3

U have more pratis... This mesen...

Berapa hargaya

These cheap chinese Clones..are always got issues..they never good as them original old singer 29 or adler 30-1..🤔i got my adler 30-1 from the 1970 with a claes Table for 120$ here used in Germany..from a old Shoemaker.that passed away..on ebay...they in Europe available from 100$ to 700$..🤔🇩🇪🇺🇸🇪🇺