I'm told this Polish climbing shop will resling your cams. www.lhotse.pl/uslugiszwalnicze/ Comment below if you know if they will do this to a cam older than 10 years because I don't know.

@Bikalakat

3 ай бұрын

I'm just assuming, but as an eastern european myself, I think they don't give a damn. They'll say its your own risk, and do whatever you want, if you pay them. Life is still cheap around here 😅

@MrCombic

3 ай бұрын

I resling my cams there at the 7-year mark not because of the poor sling condition, but simply because the cam's manufacturer manual scared me of what may happen after 10 years with the sling. And they weren't concerned about the previous sling or cam production date. They're not the cam manufacturing or testing centre to examine your hardware and decide if should do it or not. But what is the point of limiting the resling above the 10-year mark if your cams are in almost perfect shape? I believe the 10-year manufacturer recommendation to throw your cams to the trash is because of the slings' safe lifetime (same as any climbing textile recommendations, such as harnesses unless worn sooner or damaged) and not because of the cam's mechanical/hardware degradation. No manufacturer assumes their cams will ever get the resling and the weak point after years of using is certainly the sling. You could do a break test comparing the same model hardware of a cam by omitting the sling - one brand new and one manufactured a decade ago if even such a long-line cam model exists.

@pawepasisz7184

3 ай бұрын

They'll resling whatever you want :) The only difference is that the sling won't be the same color as original BD sling.

@getahanddown

3 ай бұрын

Hey I've lengthened cams with tube tape. You make a full loop where once you tie and seat (load it) your water knot you end up with a figure 8. Cam is captive and only one loop to clip. I used full width 26mm tape and felt safe on it.

@DaGregi

3 ай бұрын

The sewing branch of Lhotse is just what it's called - a sewing service. You point them what/where/what material (polyamide 16mm or dyneema 11mm)/length you want them to sew and they will. What differentiate them from other similar companies is that they are willing to complete small orders from retail customers as opposed to bulk B2B orders. The Lhotse sewing service conforms to all norms when it comes to the material and sewing process, not the whole final "product". They are are pretty clear about that.

“One metric inch” 😂

@GeraintDafis

3 ай бұрын

I mean, 25.4mm is technically a metric measurement. Don't ask me what an imperial kilo is tho 😂

@JippaJ

3 ай бұрын

Well, there's something called a Paris Inch...

@gauterh

3 ай бұрын

There is also a Swedish inch, a bavarian inch, turkish inch, a Amsterdam inch and a hamburg inch... To name a few...

@czechvirusS

3 ай бұрын

well. inch is officialy defined by metric anyway. sooo technically it is a metric inch xD

@timseguine2

3 ай бұрын

2.5cm is often referred to as a metric inch. Also 30cm is a metric foot.

Just watched a load of these. Speaking as a fat old man who's never going to climb anything that isn't stairs, but who appreciates engineering and is a bit nerdy about knots, the channel is great. Sub'd

@shred_meister

Ай бұрын

Hey bro I see fat old guys trad climbing all the time

After watching this video, I sent a few old cams (some had super sticky triggers, etc.) to Metolius to see if they could revive them. I have no clue what kind of witchcraft they do at their factory but I’m absolutely astounded by the work they did. I was expecting a resling, but in addition to that the cams were totally polished, lubed, and indistinguishable from brand new ones. I would pay the $5/cam + shipping a thousand times over.

@Eliteabeth

18 күн бұрын

Did they do any brand cam? or only metolius?

In Poland, there is the Lhotse company which manufactures harnesses, slings, quickdraws, etc. For around $5 a piece, they're reslinging any cams (not sure about totems, though). Along the shipping costs it may be a nice option for European climbers. You'll get the kN rating label attached to each sling.

@a.karley4672

3 ай бұрын

"You'll get the kN rating label attached to each sling." So, in theory, you'd be safe using these in a professional setting (e.g., securing a climbing cameraman). At least, in the criminal dock you'd have a fighting chance of turning a "culpable homicide" or "reckless endangerment" charge into something less serious (with consequences for your next decade's insurance bills).

@MrCombic

3 ай бұрын

Still, you have to understand the difference between the sling rating and the cam rating. You may get 22kN sling on a 8kN cam...

@a.karley4672

3 ай бұрын

@@MrCombic And the problem with that would be ... ? (Though I doubt the sling material - if it's one of their "standard products" which they're building around the wire of a cam - would achieve it's nominal strength if it were slung between krabs.)

Having Black Diamond relatively local for my whole life has certainly been a bonus when it comes to stuff like this.

DMM did my cams. Including one that was 20 years old. Service was great. They came back feeling like new. This kind of service means I will prioritise DMM over other brands when i buy new shiny things.

Wait, what? Ryan not testing sofshackle or dyneema loop splice???

@pauldapigeon

3 ай бұрын

He pinned it, but didn't reply. That's just adding insult to injury 😂

@chicken_punk_pie

3 ай бұрын

Is been quite a while since he's done highline-specific stuff

@david-hv2wm

3 ай бұрын

Yeah, 12 strand dyneema would be good to know.

In my opinion, this is one of the most useful videos you've made!

Wow! This was an expensive video to tell people to not buy slings from your store. Respect, my friend. You’re killing it.

So, if you need to be precise you're switching to mm instead of weird fractions of freedom units, I as a European really appreciate that! :⁠-⁠)

@thorwaldjohanson2526

3 ай бұрын

I don't mind inches too much, but small measurements in imperial are just a pain. Socket wrenches and drill bits are the best example. Super easy in mm, but a nightmare in imperial

@dereinzigwahreRichi

3 ай бұрын

@@thorwaldjohanson2526 yes, and you're even used to them. 1" and 0,5" I know what these look like but 3/8"?! I'll have to get my calculator out and most times I don't during watching a video.

@leveller4

3 ай бұрын

@@dereinzigwahreRichiwell 4/8 would be half an inch, so 3/8 is... a little less than half an inch

@dereinzigwahreRichi

3 ай бұрын

@@leveller4if that's exact enough for you and all you care to know... ;-) I'm a german engineer, textile technology engineer to be precise, so I'm very interested in precise measurements. The difference between a 8.9mm and a 9.2mm climbing rope regarding smooth rapelling can be astonishing, for example. This difference would be 3/254" for you, so basically "nothing", but it's still 0,3mm, something you can easily see with your eyes. And 3/8" is 9.525mm BTW, I did want to know now! :D

@a.karley4672

3 ай бұрын

@@dereinzigwahreRichi "but it's still 0,3mm, something you can easily see with your eyes" or two thicknesses of an Imperial standard toenail. Approximately.

13:00 and as a conasour of the bowline, I have never seen it tied like that before, that's a slick way of doing it

@HowNOT2

3 ай бұрын

I couldn't tie it like normal because the sling was too short to go over the cam so I had to reverse engineer another way.

@BurchellAtTheWharf

3 ай бұрын

@@HowNOT2 it was a very cleaver way to do it

@thomasdalton1508

3 ай бұрын

FYI, it's "connoisseur".

@BurchellAtTheWharf

3 ай бұрын

@@thomasdalton1508 yes, thank you

@ryanschwan2507

2 ай бұрын

​@@thomasdalton1508how do you spell dinosaur?

I got a Camalot reslung years ago by taking it to a harness and saddle maker (harness gear for horses, not climbing) because I knew he had a commercial bar-tacker. He put in the six bar-tacks exactly as on the original and it worked for years. I don't climb much now, but still have it. I figured a guy who made gear that had to hold race horses would know how to make it strong enough.

@kadmow

4 күн бұрын

- love the equivalence confidence, (with little commonality between sports..) fantastic, I'm sure it was extremely well done.

Living in the uk and needing to resling my helium friends I have been toying with a few of these ideas myself. I have just tied this secure bowline in the slings I have. Neatly done and happy it is super good enough for my spare set of cams.

Awesome video as always guys, and Thank You for all that you do for the community!! 👍👍

With the test with the Ocun 8mm 13.26kN you managed to tie the slipknot version of the bowline on a bight. It's hard to describe, but this can happen if you make a mistake tieing the bowline on a bight. The bonus is that even if you tie the knot the wrong way, all that happens is that the double loop will tighten up like a slip knott but won't come undone.

so many useful phrases in this episode, love it! Metric inch may be my favorite.

@a.karley4672

3 ай бұрын

I have a 110ft steel tape measure I use for cave surveying, marked in feet, tenths of a foot, and hundredth's of a foot. Metric feet are real things!.

I have a set of very gently used BD Camelots that are well over 10 years old. They've been in a box in the garage for that long. Would like to still use them some in the future, so i had been wondering about exactly this in the last few months. Great job with the video!

Just got my cams back from Mountain Tools a few days ago. They did a great job and turned them around in about a month. Reslung a couple rigid stems that I had that were older no problem.

Years ago I reslung my Wild Country Friends (too old for Wild Country to do it) using dyneema and the basket sling method. I used a running stick in a dyneema thread to hold the basket 'loops' together but not to take any load, just to make it obvious where to clip.

Such a useful (and expensive) video. Thank you!!

@youricg6480

3 ай бұрын

Cam slings just are everyone's bane

So useful! Thank you Ryan!

I got my cams reslung by Runout Customs this winter. Sent out, reslung, and back at my doorstep within 3 weeks. I know this won’t always be the case but I was shocked how fast the turn around was. They look great and brought some life back into some old BDs

BD have kindly reslung my cams when I've posted them across the Atlantic from the U.K. Takes a while but well worth it!

@sportenapfeltorten2095

3 ай бұрын

That sounds great. What did it cost you per cam? If you dont mind.

@simonrobbins815

3 ай бұрын

@@sportenapfeltorten2095 I'm afraid I only remember that the postage for 4 cams was more than the cost of the re-slinging. BD clearly doing it just as a service, not for profit (at that time, 2 years ago).

@sebastianflynn1746

3 ай бұрын

​@@sportenapfeltorten2095 I have heard they do it for free we just have to pay for shipping both ways.

@mikewatson4034

2 ай бұрын

@@sportenapfeltorten2095 BD used to do it for free as long as you paid the shipping. I'm sure they don't do it now.

@junkice6930

2 ай бұрын

@@sportenapfeltorten2095they charge $10/cam for a resling + shipping

I had Yates do my whole rack a couple years ago. They were great to work with and it took just a couple weeks. It's cheap insurance and now all the webbing colors are consistent between sizes of different brands and models.

@Climbbum

3 ай бұрын

I’ve done it with both Yates and Mountain Tools over the years. That’s definitely the crux of it, you never quite know what color they will choose, so you have to be Ok with that. Even if you are very clear about the color, it will be what they have on hand. Whatever material they have on hand too. Your Aliens may be hard to tell at a glance from your Camalots. Yates did a much better job in my opinion. I wouldn’t use Mountain Tools again given their color choices and the overall look of what I got back (although I have no worries about the safety). My buddy had really good luck with Runnout Customs, but they were a long time out last I did this. Agreed, cheap insurance!

@allanchong4772

3 ай бұрын

yates seems to be the only ones that will do others/out-of-biz makers

…And if everyone made such professional videos like you guys , the world would be a better place. 👏

this is actually info i was looking for for quite some time thx

I will concur, I sent Metolius 3 cams. On Two of them the cams would slide apart because the spacers were long gone. They reslung them, replaced the missing rubber spacers with c-clips, and polished them to a brand new shine for like $20 total. They’ll also fix any springs or wires if you request and pay for it. I had a super good enough experience with Metolius re-sling service.

Writing this comment at 3:30... Maybe going to find out how super good enough my accessory cord replacements on my old style rigid friends were for the 7+ years I used them! Edit at 7:22 "looks for how I can like this video twice..." Edit at 25:40 I was happy enough with the accessory cord. It already looked ghetto because it was on an old rigid cam. The knot bulk didn't really cause a problem. I was re-cording some hexes too so I just slapped cord on the cams. Now I have new cams 😂 Brilliant video as always!

FYI, Dark Arts Splicing in Vancouver BC is another option for reslinging any brands, including TOTEM!

Great video Ryanm thanks

Holy sh*t, Ryan, since the store opening and having all that stock on hand, I feel you! I need to break a cam! It's like this is the episode I've been waiting for - just before opening the store, I had like 20 cams reslung (❤MtnTools), built up a lot of new gear and for all the thousands of pieces I've watched you break, this was like a big crescendo vid. Thanks - for all you do.

Maybe the basket method is best but using one of those rubber things you get on a quickdraw to hold the loops in place on the carabiner. It would look the most professional and I can't see how you could accidentally unclip one of the loops.

@pentachronic

3 ай бұрын

I would suspect a rubber washer would work too.

I got an old rack of cams to use as a second rack year ago. I ended up using 7mm coord since I though it would be strong enough in a loop. I don't usually use them on anything hard and I don't care about the bulk. It came out to about $1.7 in coord per cam, so the price was right. Has worked good so far.

Why did you not include Marten at Dark Arts Splicing? He advertises that he will resling a variety of cams, and is even working on figuring out totems. I have talked with him, and he seems legit, and has break tested the shit out of his work.

Metolius customer service on re-slinging is spectacular. I've re-slung my rack back in 2011 and again in 2021. A+ Metolius team, I salute you.

I don’t even use this gear and find it fascinating. My usual is limited to a full body harness with a GriGri and double pelican clips for climbing LED walls.

Why would you want the cam to break first? It's much more expensive and if the sling breaks, the cam can be used again. Not by you but someone might appreciate it. 👍

I had this very question when I reslung my mid-2000s set of CLOG cams with almost zero use but 20ish year old slings! I reslung with Titan cord because of the swaged hole stem. Triple fisherman’s and two loops of cordage. I like the quick link though - that would have been ideal. They’re retired but available as backups!

No third party would sew new loops on climbing equipment for customers. Send it back to the manufacturer, they still won't put a new loop on. Why, they own the liability for the used gear after. They will simply tell you to buy a new one. Only sane answer.

Read the title and just needed to follow up with “everything is illegal in Europe”

Vote for MtnTools. Larry's wealth of experience is staggering. He will also re-sling with longer-lasting nylon webbing rather than Dyneema on request. Great video. I learned something; hadn't thought of a bowline. Nice.

Honestly the re-sling service from Metolius is impeccable. I sent mine in during Covid, from Canada. They came back super fast, it was cheap and they actually did look like new.

@allanchong4772

3 ай бұрын

metolius told me that they ran everything through steel ball tumbling. they did some ~1990 ones with spectra for next to nothing.

Depends on how you define Europe? DMM will resling and service your cam for a modest fee (just not those from other brands)

@sc9160

3 ай бұрын

Probably meant EU regulation. I was also surprised to find that in the EU you can't get avalanche packs refilled (have to exchange for the canister).

@josephprice5872

3 ай бұрын

The end of the video gets specific on this. The claim (not mine, not hownot2's) is that it's illegal to modify another company's ppe product. Maybe. Also something about 10 years. It's not clear. DMM (Wales) & Totem (Spain) are both mentioned in the video.

@lw671

3 ай бұрын

​@@josephprice5872the problem is that typically the original manufacturer states that it's forbidden to modify. If a company does it anyway and sell it to an private customer, they legally become the manufacturer and have to give warranties.

@willembreukelaar9050

3 ай бұрын

​@@josephprice5872 Yeah that sounds familiar and reasonable. That's why I mainly have DMM gear!

non-climber here, so the answer might be obvious to other people: Why couldn't you just put a locking carabiner through the cable loop on the cam? something thicker than the minimum allowable bend radius of the cable?

Informational and entertaining, awesome!

We already exchanged emails about this but at 24:00 it'd be super interesting to see whether we can make extendible slings like this (kind of like the DMM Dragons) which would help tremendously for keeping harness weight down. My first choice for this would be the Blue Ice Alpine Runner.

You could use ergodyne brand self-adhesive tape to secure the sling to your Caribbeaner

I use Edelrid hardline 6mm dyneema round cord with a triple fisherman's and the nylon sheaf sewn to the dyneema core at the tails to prevent sheaf slippage. Allowing for knot should be good for 13kn in a loop.

Options for New Zealand and Australia, aspiring safety do a re-sling service and are very good to deal with.

@hownot2 in lifting operation the chcker which is a bit near a girth hitch is rated as 80% and a basket as 200% or the base rating

@adamwood9144

3 ай бұрын

Rope Access we consider it to be approx 70% for a choker. Petzl give an actual figure for their 22kn anneau nylon sling of 16kn, which is 72.7% so not far off.

I would like to see you testing an dynemea rope string cordelette on cam. I was thinking to resling mine with that

Could you load test a sling attached via a Prusik knot to the eye of the anchor? Thats what our SAR teams use for high angle rescue rope sets here in Nova Scotia when we bring hikers up from steep shorelines. The thought being that the prusik distributes the force evenly over a wider area then just a single strand would allow.

@BrovkoTheBulldog

Ай бұрын

really curious about this as well

If the EU has regulations banning the repair or alteration of PPE products, that's probably only for PPE used in a professional setting. I think it's more about protecting construction workers from their bosses being cheapskates than anything else.

@ggrimpecom

3 ай бұрын

Yes and no. Yes these regulations come from the professional environment. But they will apply in case of an accident even in a non professional setting, if the repair job failed and the company having done the repair can be tracked down. But in the case of realigning cams my information is that it's not really illegal, rather so much paperwork that it would be crazy expensive.

@lw671

3 ай бұрын

There are no regulations forbidding this. Especially for professional fall arrest ppe repair is completely normal in the EU. It's a businesses choice of the manufacturer :-(

@Halphbaked210

3 ай бұрын

Well put

@Deckzwabber

3 ай бұрын

@@ggrimpecom Thanks for clarifying

Can you test some more of the Chris's tan death products? would love to see if the DIY screamers work

Instead of taping the sling, what happens if you do a whipping type thing with some thread to keep the sling in place? Not in an attempt to add strength just to keep the loops organised so it's easy to clip them both.

When I was climbing I was told to never rely on a single cam. 2 cams as a system fine, cam and a nut fine, single cam with no backup, not fine.

@a.karley4672

3 ай бұрын

When I was caving, you'd never rely on a single anything for anything. At least two of something (natural, cam, bolt, nut, piton, chock stone), and of preference in at least two separate crack systems for any main belay. For a runner/ deviation / rebelay, the existing rope from above can be one of your links, but if you're talking about a belay where people may be hanging around for a breather, you'd want at least one extra connection point to the rock. It's less the breaking of the ironmongery, as that you're - almost by definition - hooking into part of the rock that is already fractured. Not that limestone is the strongest of rocks any way ...

I've been debating reslinging some of my older cams with technora cord. Seems plenty strong enough but I am really curious how it would affect the cam wire.

Why not just clip your quick draw or alpine draw directly to the cam? I mean its the same thing you do when climbing with nuts.

Your most clickbait title yet :) Maybe not in Europe but in the UK however (Wales to be precise) DMM *will* repair/re-sling cams! So respect to DMM and Black Diamond!

@shoqed

3 ай бұрын

how is UK not in Europe

@Kingofdafarm21

3 ай бұрын

Outside of EU ... ​@@shoqed

@pieterveenders9793

3 ай бұрын

Last time I checked, the UK was still part of Europe, unless a whole new tectonic plate was part of Brexit ;-)

When are you going to test harnesses and belay loops? Tie in or carabiner clip in test?

Thanks as always. Another fantastic video. Why am I not suprised?

Great job on everything you do but please do critique of other climders that do major climbs like the one in Patagonia, the guy that bakes muffins on the wall. That would be really cool. I'm an old Cave diver that loves the heights.

The manual for tricams (at least used to) say that they can be reslung by the user with a "grapevine" knot, which is basically a double figure 9 tied with webbing. This makes using tricams even more miserable though, as the OEM sewn sling is very rigid and is useful to place (and, more importantly, remove) them. I have used this knot to resling cams and have felt confident with the results, though it takes a lot of material. Based on your pull tests, the weakness is not the knot for tied nylon slings. Thus, if the grapevine knot solves the danger of the knot coming untied, this would seem like a legitimate method. That being said, I had never thought of the basket-hitched half-length sling - I would probably be quicker to whip on that than my tied sling.

Would be curious about a grog loop! Thanks for all the testing

@HowNOT2

3 ай бұрын

For the diameter required to not lower the strength of the cable, you'd have to bury it so much that it would too long imo

@sipjca

3 ай бұрын

@@HowNOT2 word makes sense, thank you!

Your tests mostly show that radius of the cable to dyneema loop is the most important factor because the loop fails where a sharp bend occurs. It doesn't fail at a normal diameter carabiner. Wider straps fail at the edges of the strap, then the failure progresses to the center. Geometry is critically important. So wider loops, or webbing with the same strengh will fail sooner than narrow but thick loop with the same tensile strength.

I always felt that a doubled sling girth hitched would give better spread on the cable along with double strands like a basket but without the risk of it falling off 😂 There’s just an insane amount of options though 🤯

A sling with a water knot would do for me. Inelegant perhaps but also elegant.

Thoughts on spliced dyneema loops for this? What about on something like a dragon or old BD with a wider metal thumbrest (larger bearing diameter for the sling?)

Specialist sling sewing machines will use (or at least they used to) use needles which injected high pressure air in front of it's passage through the webbing to prevent any fibres from being damaged during sewing. So sewing on a regular sewing machine can damage the webbing as one sews (no matter how good you sew and unless one can seriously test their sewn designs, u are playing RR with your life and any one who might take a big fall on said gear, ok so I guess everyone here prob knows this LOL. When I replaced my slings on my cams I simply used quality climber's tubular tape, overhand knot (Yes I know all knots reduce the strength) and have fallen on them many times (ok until I replaced them again and again over the years). Ok not suggesting anyone should do it but I started climbing before any of the commercially available slings were easy to buy and I'm still alive. A lot is common sense fo climbers. Great video as always. Hope u are doing well. U look it.

When basketing a cam, you should already have it done correctly on your harness when you remove it, right? Or else it would have fallen off. As long as you don’t remove the carabiner when placing it, it should stay good.

@ethan-ying

3 ай бұрын

I think the main issue is extending it, but I agree that it would be pretty obvious that you clipped it wrong.

could you test a reslinged cam? don't have to say who did it, just would like to know if it comes back the same

@HowNOT2 Can you do a storytime video on gear that has broke on you/friends in the past and why or what could've prevented it?

If the water knot undoing itself is a concern. A couple tack stiches on the ends would hold them in place. I don't reckon that could cause any issues but would midigate the risk.

What if you made a sailing style soft loop in the Cam's thumb loop? It would be stronger, and could be the exact length you want.

Interesting vidéo. If you want to significantly increase resistance of a rope or a sling in the knot or stress point , you should shealt it . Like it is made with kitesurf lines for exemple.

Hi Ryan, you tested a lot of stuff on a cable, but what about DMM Dragons, where the is no cable. Could a 6 or 7 mm cord do the job for Dragons?

What's the shelf life of harnesses ropes and sings? Do they degrade by epping them in the dark dry basement?

Wondering how much heat/friction is contributing to the breaks. Have you tried putting a thermometer in a predictive break spot? No idea how you would do this but…

Re: Basket hitch (Chris Tan death Product) What if you basket hitch the Cam and girth hitch a wire or bent gate carabiner onto the loop ends the AlpineSavvy anchors. The larger radius of the carabiner should handle the girth hitch, you have overkill basket hitch where it matters ... and you won't accidentally unclip and pull through the carabiner.

Test the triple fisherman lanyard loop knot. A possible tidy solution. 👍

How about: dyneema sling with a basket hitch, heat shrink tube to keep the four strands aligned, and passing the ends of the sling around a grooved O-ring to form a loop for clipping?

@johngo6283

3 ай бұрын

This🤙🤙🤙

Having actually been in the CMI factory when somebody was bartacing stuff (that's the name of the special stitch they all use), it is a painstaking pain in the arse and uses a special kind of sewing machine. Multiply that significantly for something one's own company can't just drop in a jig and run through on near autopilot. (We also got to watch them break shit. Factory tours are awesome when you can get them.)

I am curious as to how a double fisherman's loop out of accessory cord would perform as compared to webbing loops

I would love to see these tests performed on Black Diamond Ultralights with the dyneema+plastic thumbloop. I imagine that DIY solutions such as girth hitched slings could work much better because of the thicker material. Obviously ultralights are expensive and you wouldn't want to destroy a bunch. But maybe you could make some simulated UL thumbloops with similarly sized dyneema and plastic casing.

I'm quite surprised that companies will do reslinging for slightly less/same than it costs to buy the sling.

Do you mean something sitting in a closet will prolly last over a year or over 10 years? Just curious which case you were referring to here.

How would you resling a DMM Dragon? Is cord the only option?

Why do the climbing manufactures not use a caus in the back end of the cams this would prevent pinching/hard bending the cable, when you look at hevy duty lifting wires they are almost always reinforced in the loops . Bending steel wire around hard sharp corners is shortening the life of the cable severely. Using a caus will also protect carbineers and metal links better if clipped directly into the wire loop.

@sebastianflynn1746

3 ай бұрын

Because they don't need to, that's added weight for added strength that isn't needed, we would never ever see forces that would break the cable in a climbing scenario apart from very weird edge cases.

Today i learned that baskets are super good enough!

A question that i have would be at what value the cam breaks if you clip a carabiner through it. Ik black diamond says something about-2kN but it would be interesting to know

@sportenapfeltorten2095

3 ай бұрын

I just bought a new bd-cam and it said exactly that in the manual. But the test with the aluminum-Quicklink worked so well. I am confused.

What about replacing the dynamo strap in a dmm dragon cam with a wire with a dyneema core or a kevlar core

Simplest is to use accessory cord with a double fishermans. Strictly speaking it's not illegal to my knowledge the problem is that the company has to certify the end result as safe. Which is very problamatic.

could use one of the banners that has a retention function (like the ones that have a screw in bar)

@a.karley4672

3 ай бұрын

I don't recognise those terms, from either climbing, caving, or marine/ industrial hoisting. Can you link to a picture?

What if the sewing was coated with a resilient resin, then vacuum chambered to make sure it soaks in completely?

Have you tried lightweight woven rope, it can be very easily made into short loops that are strong enough to lift a car, literally. The harder it is pulled the stronger the loop gets.

It's not illegal in Europe. If the manufacturer provides specification for the sling it could be done by 3th party. But without this the repair company would need to guarantee compliance to safety standards for the unit - that is impossible because you don't have production data, calculculations and test data. The manufacturer can do that. But it's not worth to discuss with a customer, that the cam he bought 20 years ago should be replaced... Who will be sued if something brakes? I also do paragliding where quality issues would have a bigger impact. In Europe it's completely usual to repair gliders by 3th party. But if scratches are too big, only the manufacturer would repair it. I'm sure that most of them would also replace the slings on your cam if you show up in person.

I have just looked it up for my cams and at Aspiring safety in NZ a dyneema sling is $12 and they will re sling cams for $12-$14

If you were trying to avoid a re-slinging method that involved stitching what would be the downside of grog-splicing something like 5mm dyneema? Seems like that would have minimal bulk and be extremely strong while still using a method that people could do at home. It seems like that might be a legitimate path for dirtbags to go down if they want maximum strength at minimal material cost.

I'm interested to know why you don't directly go carabiner to cam.