This Is First Ascent Trad Climbing
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This is what you can expect from First Ascent climbing. Loose, dirty, filthy wet climbing. We attempt to make the first full free ascent of the free/aid line of Jumaristen A2/7
The route is on the North wall of Gloppedalen and the first ascent was done in 1995 by Olav Båsen, Kai Johannessen and Rolf Motland. They orginally climbed it all free except 2 pitches which had aid sections of A0 and A2.
Gloppedalen North Wall is known for being a little bit dirty, wet and loose, but this was certainly the most of all three of these factors that either of us had experienced on the. Overall we found that it was a fantastic rock climb if you are in to that esoteric type of stuff.
Climbers are Pete Whittaker and Mari Salvesen. The whole climb went free at a grade of around E5 6b (but one which needs a certain type of climbing appetite to overcome it). All pitches followed the original aid line apart from the final pitch. The last pitch of climbing had fallen down recently so we had to take a variation out to the right.
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@bradendoane5134
2 жыл бұрын
When will XS to M crack gloves be back in stock?
@Govanification
2 жыл бұрын
What double ropes do you use? Are they triple rated? Seemed like for a while on the OW pitch you only had one clipped to gear. Great vid!
'The top of the climb has fallen down. It's destined to be a classic' had me laughing big time
loving these videos. funny, witty and dirty climbing.
Mari is such a beast.
@Mdjagg
2 жыл бұрын
and definitely not a 5!
@FlatOutFE
2 жыл бұрын
@@Mdjagg, definitely not a 5. Much better looking than Pete.
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
I think people misunderstood this 5 comment, haha!! i meant her knee is cam size #5
@Mdjagg
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz LOL! I thought it was a solid joke for sure!
@PrereleasePrep
2 жыл бұрын
She's atleast a 9!
Solid editing in this one! Real smooth
Sick editing. Really good adventure video.
5:40 pete has a Bear Grylls moment
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
hahaha
Love these videos of Mari and Pete's adventures
@alexc650
Жыл бұрын
And this is suppose to be fun?
@ollieb9875
3 ай бұрын
@@alexc650supposed to be
My only gripe is I'd have been happier if it was an hour long haha, love watching stuff like this!
The dual conversations in this were so good, love this editing style
Olav Båsen, of the original first ascent team, is an old friend from university in Trondheim. After moving to Stavanger he was for many years the leader of the local chapter of the local Mountain Rescue team. He grew very tired of having to locate the bodies of base jumpers. :-(
@josefanon8504
Жыл бұрын
damn, understandable, that's gotta be rough ...
That's proper climbing, loose rock, wet, a bit of gardening and a proper rack of gear.
@george221999
2 жыл бұрын
It takes me back
Loving the two rope British belaying. I haven't tried it myself but it looks cool for adding redundancy, spreading load across rock real estate, and maximizing visual suave.
That entire valley looks like loose rock haha, still such an amazingly scenic place to climb. Great video!
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
Yes therefore haven't been some other big rock calls there recently. The south side is a bit more solid
Top notch trail mix, the climbing was also kinda cool.
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
always mix it yourself
“Nobody likes that shit” - definitely a classic. Great video!
1:28 Mari: "Everything's bigger at wild country, even the centimeters" I'm dying 😂
This video is a joy. I smiled the whole time
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
:D
GG Mari, GG Pete! Thanks, helps a lot.
0:19 nice game.
Agreement with the comments posted this was whitty and great to watch even the minging bitz at the same time scary of that big loose shite 😯😁🙂🧗♂️🧗♀️👏👍 PS. Humour between you and Mari makes this and the smooth editing makes a greater vlog. Skill share paid off big time.
You two are hilarious, and also very good.
Loving this content 🤘 keep it coming.
Enjoyed it, Pete. Always worry about lead inadvertently releasing some rock onto the belayer on these sorts of climbs. The footage of kicking some of the loose stuff off is pretty eye opening… particularly when it explodes when it hits bottom. Wow.
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
after yesterdays route climbing with mari...I can tell you now, there is more of this to come, haha!! you'll have to wait a few weeks for that episode though
Awesome videos, keep 'em coming! Trad adventures are rad 🤘
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Will do! we've just been up Troll Wall, and its safe to say that was fairly adventurous.... haha
Love this content!
Mari, Pete you have a talent to make the dirtiest weirdest routes look like walk in the park.. and fun ;) Well done on this one. Stay safe in these loose stuff! =)
What an absolute BANGER of a video. :D Very enjoyable!!!
So pleased to see your port and starboard ropes now being used correctly!
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
haha, which is which?
@thomasreeves5580
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz Red (port) on the left, green (starboard) on the right. Anyone using them the other way round probably racks an odd number of quickdraws.
Love your vids Pete! Y’all are pretty funny
We love these videos !
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
and we're greatful of you watching them, thanks :)
Came back to watch this after the 5 part series with Toby ended and I wanted more! Excellent video.Mari's face at 1:06 had me giggling my butt off!
If we're talking about cracks compared to "normal climbing" in more harsh conditions, my experience this summer has been that if it's really hot then as long as it's jamming I can keep climbing. But if the route with the jam has a single normal hold on it in the heat we've had this summer, I start slipping off that hold right away. Back in the jams, it's fine.
nice vibez between these two!
Mari: Maybe some slimmy offwidthing or something. Pete: Some what? Mart: Slimmy offwidthing or something. Pete: Hmm. Mari: We'll see. Pete: I like that!
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
love it :D
This is the content I love from you. How many pounds of gear was that for Mari? Looks crazy.
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
double rack of cams, 10 draws, small selcetion of wires. quite normal for a multipitch trad climb of this sort i'd say
Amazing video! 🌞
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
thanks for watching
Fun editing and dynamic 👍
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
cheers
Love these vids
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
thanks :)
I didn't understand very much of that, but I still enjoy watching :)
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
thanks for watching :)
Absolutely filfy. With the second f.
Now that is 'real' climbing - good effort both. :)
"You are a 5"
@josefanon8504
Жыл бұрын
I was laughing so hard just about how out of nowhere that came. After clarification from Pete, apparently her knee is cam size 5 xD
Love the “dialogues” hahaha great to watch
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
thanks for watching :)
That was so good 😂💪🏻
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
We need to get you on the channel at some point Toby. Crack meets Parkour 😅😉
@tobysegar
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz yes yes yes
OMG one of the best videoes ever
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
glad you enjoyed it
Mari is such a champ
This is Goooold!
Yay outdoor fun!
Well if "The Chasm" is a 3* classic I don't see why this can't become one!
100% Epic!
god, slippery rock gives me so much anxiety... I've taken too many whippers because of wet, slopey footholds
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
tread carefully
Proper job
"with cam four and five..." "Do you have a four and a five?" "I have a four." "You are a five!" Made my day!
Do you guys hike down a different way, or climb back down? That's something I've never seen. Abandon a couple clips at the top and rappel down with a super long rope? Parachutes in the backpack?
@alcupone6462
2 жыл бұрын
On this massive I would guess they just walk down on the other side. Rappelling is also an option, but without preset abseil points (either drilled or some alpine style knotted bundles) it is usually slow, complicated and expensive. Parachute is choice of experts ;)
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
This one just walk around, pretty straight forward 👍
I like this «Mari». Marri her!
Oh man, each time I come across loose rock I'd love to throw it down but there's always someone else around so I better not
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
always check before you dislodge the rock and not whilst you're doing it, thats the key! often people shout just after they've dislodged it, but that no use to anyone!
Good leading-stayed away from trouble, let your partner finish her moves. Were you trailing a rope or leading on two ropes?
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
Leading on two ropes. Useful for trad multipitches.
@george221999
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz we used them back in the day to minimize rope drag without leading out too much
I thought when dislodging rocks of any size you're supposed to yell "rock!" so that others can take cover (before they're killed). That's at least what us old timer's did.
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
we already knew no one was down there. we did the checking before the trundle
Are they in Norway?? I just saw the route guide and didnt notice i could read the text😅
Bro, so harsh! She more than a 5....wait...nevermind.
I barely can go up to 15m... This is scary! Well done anyways!
I don't understand why she has 2 ropes though
@user-cw2gz3qx9m
2 жыл бұрын
I think that's a European thing. I get why they use it for winding routes but not straight ones :/
@ggwpmydudes
2 жыл бұрын
@@user-cw2gz3qx9m am italian... can say i have never used 2 ropes ahah
@ralfrussel1950
2 жыл бұрын
Some advanteges: With half ropes you can rappel the full length (quicker escape). You have two ropes not just one and with all that loose rock there is a risk of rope damage due to rockfall. You can reduce rope drag if pieces of protections are far off the climbing line or the line goes left and right. And in case of a fall the force on a piece of protection is not as high as with a single rope since singel ropes are stiffer than half ropes.
@ggwpmydudes
2 жыл бұрын
@@ralfrussel1950 aaah okok thanks for the clarification
@dave_h_8742
2 жыл бұрын
As a Gumby I was wondering too thought one was a haul rope for a haul bag. Now I know ...
nice climb tho looks a great route
You needed a flymow on your rack for that route.
"A" in A0, A4 etc, means aid (climbing), right? Is there anyway to convert those numbers into a sport climbing grade?
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
No, A4 can be anything from 6a to impossible and A0 can be exactly the same. It depends on the rocks features.
@DanielGallagherMusic
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz 😲 That's a good thing to know before heading out on an A0 thinking it'll be a piece of cake.
@Mike-oz4cv
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz How does aid climbing even work? If you can place gear to pull on, doesn’t that imply that there is a proper crack or hold you could hold on to? I’ve only seen A0 sections in bolted routes where the bolts are placed close enough together that you can pull on the quick draws (or step on the bolts) if you can’t climb it freely.
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
@@Mike-oz4cv you might be hammering beaks into a thin seam (on an otherwise blank wall) which is way too small for fingers and toes. This is just an example of how an aid pitch might no be freeable
Find yourself a woman like Mari.
I'd love to get into trad, but holy having to buy all that equipment is expensive ;(
@sjmiller131
2 жыл бұрын
Most of it will last a lifetime, and compared to things like mountain biking or skiing it starts to look cheap. You can put together a starter rack for 500 on sale.
@TrossDolfei
2 жыл бұрын
@@sjmiller131 Hmm sure it probably lasts a life time but shouldn't safety equipment be replaced every x years? In sweden one single cam thing can cost like 150 bucks haha
@ppeppe
Жыл бұрын
The metal gear can last a long time, fabric elements shorter safe lifespan, but still years well stored
"that's a big one"
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
exactly
What harness does Mari climb in?
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
Dmm
*the Wide Couplez
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
haha!!
Sometimes it is enough to have done something - and move on!
I wanna hear Pete speak norwegian!
q u a l i t y c o n t e n t
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
thanks :)
Are you actually trying to convince me that climbing on wet loose rocks it's not that bad? Good try, but no😂 cool editing!
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
its an acquired taste thats for sure
i had to giggle Trad Climbing sounded like a slur or like someone with no experience climbing 1st go
First?
jesus did she have those beley anchors on 2 cams? thats not recomended/ safe 3:27
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
Yes two good cams and nothing else in the belay is normal. You would use 3 or more pieces if one or both of the pieces was not bomber
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz cams for beleying is not bomber cams walk, got qualls m8 or do you just climb?
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
@@therealm00theoriginal27 cams are very normal in belays. Walking is only a problem if the crack is deep and widens at the back so they can umbrella out. As you are putting weight through the cams on the belay this also means they aren't going to walk. Don't you worry, I've thought all this through 😉
what exactly do you mean by A2? please dont say your using american grades?>
@ip2862
2 жыл бұрын
A2 isn't specifically American; the 'A' system for rating aid is pretty universal.
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@ip2862 i see
@ip2862
Жыл бұрын
And "your" sounds just a bit American. Did you possibly mean "you're"?
your supposed to shout "BELOW" when you knock rocks down the crag like that.... amatures
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
That's done well before you actually knock the rock off 👍
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz your not supposed to be knocking them off in the first place so how can youi do it before hand? lol.....
@WideBoyz
2 жыл бұрын
@@therealm00theoriginal27 it's normal to get rid of stuffing like this in the mountains when there is no one else around. It helps the next people climbing 👍
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz you cant always know your alone and if they belong on the rock in the first place they dont need your help removing rocks. no pros will teach you this its also bad for the rock face in general
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@WideBoyz sorry to be so negative tho, pretty sure im right tho i did do my training a long time ago
do you know a wide boy is a bad thing? means sly un trust worthy etc
@mattmortimer6803
2 жыл бұрын
Jesus Christ, the spam is unreal. 6 separate comments, nearly all of them whiny/misinformed. Give it a rest
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@mattmortimer6803 hahaha no clue i see
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@mattmortimer6803 im quallified, you have no clue
@therealm00theoriginal27
2 жыл бұрын
@@mattmortimer6803 type of kid that leaves all your mess behind at the crag
“Loose/filthy” I’ve dated a few women that fit that description. Lol
@jlehm
2 жыл бұрын
@@Andy-fd7zh you seem like a fun person
no rule is never ever grab grass... ever
please read crag etiqete rules etc and put into practice tho especially since your showing people videos could at least do it by the book