This Is First Ascent Trad Climbing

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This is what you can expect from First Ascent climbing. Loose, dirty, filthy wet climbing. We attempt to make the first full free ascent of the free/aid line of Jumaristen A2/7
The route is on the North wall of Gloppedalen and the first ascent was done in 1995 by Olav Båsen, Kai Johannessen and Rolf Motland. They orginally climbed it all free except 2 pitches which had aid sections of A0 and A2.
Gloppedalen North Wall is known for being a little bit dirty, wet and loose, but this was certainly the most of all three of these factors that either of us had experienced on the. Overall we found that it was a fantastic rock climb if you are in to that esoteric type of stuff.
Climbers are Pete Whittaker and Mari Salvesen. The whole climb went free at a grade of around E5 6b (but one which needs a certain type of climbing appetite to overcome it). All pitches followed the original aid line apart from the final pitch. The last pitch of climbing had fallen down recently so we had to take a variation out to the right.
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#climbing #rockclimbing #tradclimbing

Пікірлер: 166

  • @WideBoyz
    @WideBoyz2 жыл бұрын

    Check out our Wide Boyz shop here www.wideboyz.com

  • @bradendoane5134

    @bradendoane5134

    2 жыл бұрын

    When will XS to M crack gloves be back in stock?

  • @Govanification

    @Govanification

    2 жыл бұрын

    What double ropes do you use? Are they triple rated? Seemed like for a while on the OW pitch you only had one clipped to gear. Great vid!

  • @georgestone8099
    @georgestone80992 жыл бұрын

    'The top of the climb has fallen down. It's destined to be a classic' had me laughing big time

  • @beginna
    @beginna2 жыл бұрын

    loving these videos. funny, witty and dirty climbing.

  • @FlatOutFE
    @FlatOutFE2 жыл бұрын

    Mari is such a beast.

  • @Mdjagg

    @Mdjagg

    2 жыл бұрын

    and definitely not a 5!

  • @FlatOutFE

    @FlatOutFE

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@Mdjagg, definitely not a 5. Much better looking than Pete.

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    I think people misunderstood this 5 comment, haha!! i meant her knee is cam size #5

  • @Mdjagg

    @Mdjagg

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz LOL! I thought it was a solid joke for sure!

  • @PrereleasePrep

    @PrereleasePrep

    2 жыл бұрын

    She's atleast a 9!

  • @snefansson
    @snefansson2 жыл бұрын

    Solid editing in this one! Real smooth

  • @grey-yem
    @grey-yem2 жыл бұрын

    Sick editing. Really good adventure video.

  • @oskarskoglund9496
    @oskarskoglund94962 жыл бұрын

    5:40 pete has a Bear Grylls moment

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    hahaha

  • @42ford42prefect
    @42ford42prefect2 жыл бұрын

    Love these videos of Mari and Pete's adventures

  • @alexc650

    @alexc650

    Жыл бұрын

    And this is suppose to be fun?

  • @ollieb9875

    @ollieb9875

    3 ай бұрын

    @@alexc650supposed to be

  • @markevans135
    @markevans1352 жыл бұрын

    My only gripe is I'd have been happier if it was an hour long haha, love watching stuff like this!

  • @Nyitemare
    @Nyitemare Жыл бұрын

    The dual conversations in this were so good, love this editing style

  • @TerjeMathisen
    @TerjeMathisen2 жыл бұрын

    Olav Båsen, of the original first ascent team, is an old friend from university in Trondheim. After moving to Stavanger he was for many years the leader of the local chapter of the local Mountain Rescue team. He grew very tired of having to locate the bodies of base jumpers. :-(

  • @josefanon8504

    @josefanon8504

    Жыл бұрын

    damn, understandable, that's gotta be rough ...

  • @gaz1967
    @gaz19672 жыл бұрын

    That's proper climbing, loose rock, wet, a bit of gardening and a proper rack of gear.

  • @george221999

    @george221999

    2 жыл бұрын

    It takes me back

  • @matthewgough9533
    @matthewgough95332 жыл бұрын

    Loving the two rope British belaying. I haven't tried it myself but it looks cool for adding redundancy, spreading load across rock real estate, and maximizing visual suave.

  • @NOTYOU0BVIOUSLY
    @NOTYOU0BVIOUSLY2 жыл бұрын

    That entire valley looks like loose rock haha, still such an amazingly scenic place to climb. Great video!

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yes therefore haven't been some other big rock calls there recently. The south side is a bit more solid

  • @ryebread8485
    @ryebread84852 жыл бұрын

    Top notch trail mix, the climbing was also kinda cool.

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    always mix it yourself

  • @LordQueso
    @LordQueso2 жыл бұрын

    “Nobody likes that shit” - definitely a classic. Great video!

  • @Govanification
    @Govanification Жыл бұрын

    1:28 Mari: "Everything's bigger at wild country, even the centimeters" I'm dying 😂

  • @Syaska
    @Syaska2 жыл бұрын

    This video is a joy. I smiled the whole time

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    :D

  • @heighRick
    @heighRick2 ай бұрын

    GG Mari, GG Pete! Thanks, helps a lot.

  • @bker5376
    @bker53762 жыл бұрын

    0:19 nice game.

  • @dave_h_8742
    @dave_h_87422 жыл бұрын

    Agreement with the comments posted this was whitty and great to watch even the minging bitz at the same time scary of that big loose shite 😯😁🙂🧗‍♂️🧗‍♀️👏👍 PS. Humour between you and Mari makes this and the smooth editing makes a greater vlog. Skill share paid off big time.

  • @carni6319
    @carni63192 жыл бұрын

    You two are hilarious, and also very good.

  • @sampoultney7373
    @sampoultney73732 жыл бұрын

    Loving this content 🤘 keep it coming.

  • @stitch3163
    @stitch31632 жыл бұрын

    Enjoyed it, Pete. Always worry about lead inadvertently releasing some rock onto the belayer on these sorts of climbs. The footage of kicking some of the loose stuff off is pretty eye opening… particularly when it explodes when it hits bottom. Wow.

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    after yesterdays route climbing with mari...I can tell you now, there is more of this to come, haha!! you'll have to wait a few weeks for that episode though

  • @gow7
    @gow72 жыл бұрын

    Awesome videos, keep 'em coming! Trad adventures are rad 🤘

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks! Will do! we've just been up Troll Wall, and its safe to say that was fairly adventurous.... haha

  • @omhd
    @omhd2 жыл бұрын

    Love this content!

  • @RPanczak
    @RPanczak2 жыл бұрын

    Mari, Pete you have a talent to make the dirtiest weirdest routes look like walk in the park.. and fun ;) Well done on this one. Stay safe in these loose stuff! =)

  • @sportenapfeltorten2095
    @sportenapfeltorten2095 Жыл бұрын

    What an absolute BANGER of a video. :D Very enjoyable!!!

  • @thomasreeves5580
    @thomasreeves55802 жыл бұрын

    So pleased to see your port and starboard ropes now being used correctly!

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    haha, which is which?

  • @thomasreeves5580

    @thomasreeves5580

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz Red (port) on the left, green (starboard) on the right. Anyone using them the other way round probably racks an odd number of quickdraws.

  • @MPHshoots
    @MPHshoots2 жыл бұрын

    Love your vids Pete! Y’all are pretty funny

  • @WiseFrank
    @WiseFrank2 жыл бұрын

    We love these videos !

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    and we're greatful of you watching them, thanks :)

  • @JHoehn
    @JHoehn Жыл бұрын

    Came back to watch this after the 5 part series with Toby ended and I wanted more! Excellent video.Mari's face at 1:06 had me giggling my butt off!

  • @Thrusthamster
    @Thrusthamster2 жыл бұрын

    If we're talking about cracks compared to "normal climbing" in more harsh conditions, my experience this summer has been that if it's really hot then as long as it's jamming I can keep climbing. But if the route with the jam has a single normal hold on it in the heat we've had this summer, I start slipping off that hold right away. Back in the jams, it's fine.

  • @nopro_films
    @nopro_films2 жыл бұрын

    nice vibez between these two!

  • @natetronn
    @natetronn2 жыл бұрын

    Mari: Maybe some slimmy offwidthing or something. Pete: Some what? Mart: Slimmy offwidthing or something. Pete: Hmm. Mari: We'll see. Pete: I like that!

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    love it :D

  • @GlowingShutter
    @GlowingShutter2 жыл бұрын

    This is the content I love from you. How many pounds of gear was that for Mari? Looks crazy.

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    double rack of cams, 10 draws, small selcetion of wires. quite normal for a multipitch trad climb of this sort i'd say

  • @markuswrede8960
    @markuswrede89602 жыл бұрын

    Amazing video! 🌞

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    thanks for watching

  • @Potz4pizza
    @Potz4pizza2 жыл бұрын

    Fun editing and dynamic 👍

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    cheers

  • @nathankenny7454
    @nathankenny74542 жыл бұрын

    Love these vids

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    thanks :)

  • @macgyveriii2818
    @macgyveriii28182 жыл бұрын

    I didn't understand very much of that, but I still enjoy watching :)

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    thanks for watching :)

  • @wixic111
    @wixic1112 жыл бұрын

    Absolutely filfy. With the second f.

  • @malgrimm1782
    @malgrimm17822 жыл бұрын

    Now that is 'real' climbing - good effort both. :)

  • @beezow7113
    @beezow71132 жыл бұрын

    "You are a 5"

  • @josefanon8504

    @josefanon8504

    Жыл бұрын

    I was laughing so hard just about how out of nowhere that came. After clarification from Pete, apparently her knee is cam size 5 xD

  • @vengal6251
    @vengal62512 жыл бұрын

    Love the “dialogues” hahaha great to watch

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    thanks for watching :)

  • @tobysegar
    @tobysegar2 жыл бұрын

    That was so good 😂💪🏻

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    We need to get you on the channel at some point Toby. Crack meets Parkour 😅😉

  • @tobysegar

    @tobysegar

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz yes yes yes

  • @dampwool2000
    @dampwool20002 жыл бұрын

    OMG one of the best videoes ever

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    glad you enjoyed it

  • @ryonmerrick3112
    @ryonmerrick31122 жыл бұрын

    Mari is such a champ

  • @martindrexler8358
    @martindrexler83582 жыл бұрын

    This is Goooold!

  • @nelsonianb1289
    @nelsonianb12892 жыл бұрын

    Yay outdoor fun!

  • @philipbrocklehurst3745
    @philipbrocklehurst37452 жыл бұрын

    Well if "The Chasm" is a 3* classic I don't see why this can't become one!

  • @TheSietch
    @TheSietch2 ай бұрын

    100% Epic!

  • @jetblack5941
    @jetblack59412 жыл бұрын

    god, slippery rock gives me so much anxiety... I've taken too many whippers because of wet, slopey footholds

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    tread carefully

  • @andrewgilbertson5356
    @andrewgilbertson53562 жыл бұрын

    Proper job

  • @DestinyOvLight
    @DestinyOvLight2 жыл бұрын

    "with cam four and five..." "Do you have a four and a five?" "I have a four." "You are a five!" Made my day!

  • @angst_
    @angst_2 жыл бұрын

    Do you guys hike down a different way, or climb back down? That's something I've never seen. Abandon a couple clips at the top and rappel down with a super long rope? Parachutes in the backpack?

  • @alcupone6462

    @alcupone6462

    2 жыл бұрын

    On this massive I would guess they just walk down on the other side. Rappelling is also an option, but without preset abseil points (either drilled or some alpine style knotted bundles) it is usually slow, complicated and expensive. Parachute is choice of experts ;)

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    This one just walk around, pretty straight forward 👍

  • @isakberg3490
    @isakberg34902 жыл бұрын

    I like this «Mari». Marri her!

  • @ole7282
    @ole72822 жыл бұрын

    Oh man, each time I come across loose rock I'd love to throw it down but there's always someone else around so I better not

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    always check before you dislodge the rock and not whilst you're doing it, thats the key! often people shout just after they've dislodged it, but that no use to anyone!

  • @george221999
    @george2219992 жыл бұрын

    Good leading-stayed away from trouble, let your partner finish her moves. Were you trailing a rope or leading on two ropes?

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    Leading on two ropes. Useful for trad multipitches.

  • @george221999

    @george221999

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz we used them back in the day to minimize rope drag without leading out too much

  • @richwojehowski1123
    @richwojehowski11232 жыл бұрын

    I thought when dislodging rocks of any size you're supposed to yell "rock!" so that others can take cover (before they're killed). That's at least what us old timer's did.

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    we already knew no one was down there. we did the checking before the trundle

  • @thomasjensen2048
    @thomasjensen2048 Жыл бұрын

    Are they in Norway?? I just saw the route guide and didnt notice i could read the text😅

  • @compellingpeople
    @compellingpeople2 жыл бұрын

    Bro, so harsh! She more than a 5....wait...nevermind.

  • @tonyocnos6691
    @tonyocnos66912 жыл бұрын

    I barely can go up to 15m... This is scary! Well done anyways!

  • @ggwpmydudes
    @ggwpmydudes2 жыл бұрын

    I don't understand why she has 2 ropes though

  • @user-cw2gz3qx9m

    @user-cw2gz3qx9m

    2 жыл бұрын

    I think that's a European thing. I get why they use it for winding routes but not straight ones :/

  • @ggwpmydudes

    @ggwpmydudes

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@user-cw2gz3qx9m am italian... can say i have never used 2 ropes ahah

  • @ralfrussel1950

    @ralfrussel1950

    2 жыл бұрын

    Some advanteges: With half ropes you can rappel the full length (quicker escape). You have two ropes not just one and with all that loose rock there is a risk of rope damage due to rockfall. You can reduce rope drag if pieces of protections are far off the climbing line or the line goes left and right. And in case of a fall the force on a piece of protection is not as high as with a single rope since singel ropes are stiffer than half ropes.

  • @ggwpmydudes

    @ggwpmydudes

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ralfrussel1950 aaah okok thanks for the clarification

  • @dave_h_8742

    @dave_h_8742

    2 жыл бұрын

    As a Gumby I was wondering too thought one was a haul rope for a haul bag. Now I know ...

  • @therealm00theoriginal27
    @therealm00theoriginal272 жыл бұрын

    nice climb tho looks a great route

  • @NDKY67
    @NDKY672 жыл бұрын

    You needed a flymow on your rack for that route.

  • @DanielGallagherMusic
    @DanielGallagherMusic2 жыл бұрын

    "A" in A0, A4 etc, means aid (climbing), right? Is there anyway to convert those numbers into a sport climbing grade?

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    No, A4 can be anything from 6a to impossible and A0 can be exactly the same. It depends on the rocks features.

  • @DanielGallagherMusic

    @DanielGallagherMusic

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz 😲 That's a good thing to know before heading out on an A0 thinking it'll be a piece of cake.

  • @Mike-oz4cv

    @Mike-oz4cv

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz How does aid climbing even work? If you can place gear to pull on, doesn’t that imply that there is a proper crack or hold you could hold on to? I’ve only seen A0 sections in bolted routes where the bolts are placed close enough together that you can pull on the quick draws (or step on the bolts) if you can’t climb it freely.

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@Mike-oz4cv you might be hammering beaks into a thin seam (on an otherwise blank wall) which is way too small for fingers and toes. This is just an example of how an aid pitch might no be freeable

  • @1stWolverine
    @1stWolverine2 жыл бұрын

    Find yourself a woman like Mari.

  • @TrossDolfei
    @TrossDolfei2 жыл бұрын

    I'd love to get into trad, but holy having to buy all that equipment is expensive ;(

  • @sjmiller131

    @sjmiller131

    2 жыл бұрын

    Most of it will last a lifetime, and compared to things like mountain biking or skiing it starts to look cheap. You can put together a starter rack for 500 on sale.

  • @TrossDolfei

    @TrossDolfei

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@sjmiller131 Hmm sure it probably lasts a life time but shouldn't safety equipment be replaced every x years? In sweden one single cam thing can cost like 150 bucks haha

  • @ppeppe

    @ppeppe

    Жыл бұрын

    The metal gear can last a long time, fabric elements shorter safe lifespan, but still years well stored

  • @hijack80
    @hijack802 жыл бұрын

    "that's a big one"

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    exactly

  • @markfranchi4506
    @markfranchi45062 жыл бұрын

    What harness does Mari climb in?

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    Dmm

  • @foreststroble748
    @foreststroble7482 жыл бұрын

    *the Wide Couplez

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    haha!!

  • @acommenter5184
    @acommenter5184 Жыл бұрын

    Sometimes it is enough to have done something - and move on!

  • @simenhw
    @simenhw2 жыл бұрын

    I wanna hear Pete speak norwegian!

  • @cornelisgraper8678
    @cornelisgraper86782 жыл бұрын

    q u a l i t y c o n t e n t

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    thanks :)

  • @lll000lllx3
    @lll000lllx32 жыл бұрын

    Are you actually trying to convince me that climbing on wet loose rocks it's not that bad? Good try, but no😂 cool editing!

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    its an acquired taste thats for sure

  • @17hmr243
    @17hmr2432 жыл бұрын

    i had to giggle Trad Climbing sounded like a slur or like someone with no experience climbing 1st go

  • @creep245
    @creep2452 жыл бұрын

    First?

  • @therealm00theoriginal27
    @therealm00theoriginal272 жыл бұрын

    jesus did she have those beley anchors on 2 cams? thats not recomended/ safe 3:27

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yes two good cams and nothing else in the belay is normal. You would use 3 or more pieces if one or both of the pieces was not bomber

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz cams for beleying is not bomber cams walk, got qualls m8 or do you just climb?

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@therealm00theoriginal27 cams are very normal in belays. Walking is only a problem if the crack is deep and widens at the back so they can umbrella out. As you are putting weight through the cams on the belay this also means they aren't going to walk. Don't you worry, I've thought all this through 😉

  • @therealm00theoriginal27
    @therealm00theoriginal272 жыл бұрын

    what exactly do you mean by A2? please dont say your using american grades?>

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    2 жыл бұрын

    A2 isn't specifically American; the 'A' system for rating aid is pretty universal.

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ip2862 i see

  • @ip2862

    @ip2862

    Жыл бұрын

    And "your" sounds just a bit American. Did you possibly mean "you're"?

  • @therealm00theoriginal27
    @therealm00theoriginal272 жыл бұрын

    your supposed to shout "BELOW" when you knock rocks down the crag like that.... amatures

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    That's done well before you actually knock the rock off 👍

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz your not supposed to be knocking them off in the first place so how can youi do it before hand? lol.....

  • @WideBoyz

    @WideBoyz

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@therealm00theoriginal27 it's normal to get rid of stuffing like this in the mountains when there is no one else around. It helps the next people climbing 👍

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz you cant always know your alone and if they belong on the rock in the first place they dont need your help removing rocks. no pros will teach you this its also bad for the rock face in general

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@WideBoyz sorry to be so negative tho, pretty sure im right tho i did do my training a long time ago

  • @therealm00theoriginal27
    @therealm00theoriginal272 жыл бұрын

    do you know a wide boy is a bad thing? means sly un trust worthy etc

  • @mattmortimer6803

    @mattmortimer6803

    2 жыл бұрын

    Jesus Christ, the spam is unreal. 6 separate comments, nearly all of them whiny/misinformed. Give it a rest

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@mattmortimer6803 hahaha no clue i see

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@mattmortimer6803 im quallified, you have no clue

  • @therealm00theoriginal27

    @therealm00theoriginal27

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@mattmortimer6803 type of kid that leaves all your mess behind at the crag

  • @jlehm
    @jlehm2 жыл бұрын

    “Loose/filthy” I’ve dated a few women that fit that description. Lol

  • @jlehm

    @jlehm

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@Andy-fd7zh you seem like a fun person

  • @therealm00theoriginal27
    @therealm00theoriginal272 жыл бұрын

    no rule is never ever grab grass... ever

  • @therealm00theoriginal27
    @therealm00theoriginal272 жыл бұрын

    please read crag etiqete rules etc and put into practice tho especially since your showing people videos could at least do it by the book

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