The SECRET Source of Classic Menswear: Military Uniforms
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
We discuss the broad ways in which military uniforms affected Classic Menswear: gentl.mn/military-uniforms-cl...
#military #menswear #notsponsored
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→ The Most Overrated Color In Menswear: gentl.mn/most-overrated-color...
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→ Secrets of Color: gentl.mn/colors-meanings1
→ Who Was Beau Brummell?: gentl.mn/original-beau-brummell1
→ Cost Per Wear: gentl.mn/cpw-equation01
→ Why Did Men Start Wearing Belts?: gentl.mn/start-wearing-belts1
→ Are You An Expert?: gentl.mn/obscure-menswear-term1
→ Classic Not Customey: gentl.mn/vintage-goods-classic
-VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: E.J. Daniels & Preston Schlueter
→ Camera: Graham Zima & Chris Dummer
→ Editing: Jonathan Oster
→ Supervision: Preston Schlueter
→ British Pathe
→ Deutsches Film Museum
→ Warner Bros.
→ Warner Media
→ Disney
→ BBC
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Modern War Institute
→ Warfare History Network
→ Historic UK
→ Thrillist
→ Lapham's Quarterly
→ Army Times
→ World4.eu
→ The Guard Museum
→ Horsenetwork.com
→ Atlas Obscura
→ Journal of the American Revolution
→ Rebels Market
→ NME
→ Gettyburgmuseumofhistory.com
→ Slate
→ Mount Vernon
→ Smithsonian Institution
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00:00 Military Uniforms Introduction
Men’s fashion has been shaped by a wide variety of influences but you might be surprised at just how many aspects of Classic Menswear have their source in military uniforms and a warrior’s wardrobe from color schemes to cuts to accessorizing.
02:22 Why Did Armies Need Uniforms?
As the name implies, uniforms are intended to impart a uniform appearance to soldiers. For our purposes, the three most significant aspects of this uniformity are as follows:
→ 1. Uniforms distinguish friend from foe.
→ 2. Uniforms distinguish combatants from noncombatants.
→ 3. Uniforms ensure standardized access to tools.
04:02 Interplay Between Uniforms & Classic Menswear
Because we’re taking a macro view of uniforms and menswear today, it’s important to acknowledge the constant exchange that was taking place between these two spheres.
05:29 Rally Around the (Classic) Colors
One of the easiest ways to identify troops was to have each army associated with a particular color. Not surprisingly, many of the most common colors are used as military uniforms. You’ll definitely recognize navy blue as an iconic menswear color that appears in the uniforms of many nations.
07:55 Bolder Battlefield Colors
11:35 Conquering with Contrast
Color combinations in uniforms would also have a big impact on contemporary classic menswear. Contrast elements were often employed in uniforms to help identify different units within the same army for organizational purposes.
14:44 The Tactical Union of Form and Function
Because military uniforms had to survive the destruction and carnage of battle,. They were usually made with durable, dependable fabrics.
Ultimately, military garments were functional garments, and while outside of sportswear or athletic wear utilitarian functionality is less of an issue in Classic Menswear.
16:50 Cutting a Manly Figure
There’s something about a uniform that just makes men appear more attractive. This does serve a practical function as uniforms that make soldiers look and feel strong, imposing, and impressive, increase the wearer’s confidence, could frighten enemy troops, and help attract new recruits.
18:50 Standing Out With Style
In most cases, uniforms were somewhat ironically intended to make men look essentially the same but also had to help men stand out in particular situations or relative to each other.
21:50 Outfit Rundown
Пікірлер: 114
What I have noticed is that often the best men’s clothing comes or derives from a military heritage not just in European countries but also in cultures around the world from Americas to Asia.
*IF YOU TURN UP THE COLAR* of your suit jacket and fold the lapels in to meet - you GET a military coat - the notches on the lapels for the space for your chin in the high collar A suit jacket is JUST a military coat with the high collar turned down and the center folded back - if you look at frock coats of the 1890's etc you can see the button holes go all the way UP the lapel. Almost ALL classical menswear garments have military origins.
1:14 I would love to see a video about articles of menswear that started out as military dress!
Millitary overcoats are the best, I have my vintage Gieves Hawkes, British Warm overcoat, best coat for the winter. Great waist supression and bold peak lapels.
@RaoulKunz1
Жыл бұрын
True, I have the most unchanged greatcoats the military heritage offers: a Burberry trench-coat from before their shift to more fashion orientation (meaning in the unchanged Great War setup), a German Airforce greatcoat that I had to remove all the specifics because keeping them would be a d°ck nove, and of course I also own a "U-boat" type Kaleu leather pea-coat. All usefull and dapper coats. I also own a made to measure dark-grey double breasted greatcoat with red lapels and red lining - essentially German General officer look without explicit military effects. Best regards Raoul G. Kunz
@keshavrao212
Жыл бұрын
@@RaoulKunz1 Wear an admiral cap with your mtm or luftwaffe great coat, especially if you are tall, you would look menacing with that.
Would be awesome to see a video on the history/explanation of military black tie (mess dress) and white tie uniforms! The mess dress, to me, is one of the most sharp looking uniforms out there. I’m particularly bias because I love wearing mine haha. Each US branch has such a distinct mess dress of each their own with very interesting variations back in the 20th century.
My uncle used make comments now and again about how well the German military forces dressed during WWII. The German Army, Artillery, and Armored units, along with the German Navy and Luftwaffe, and the Nazi's. He referred to them as " handsome devils." My uncle was wounded on D-Day with the 82nd Airborne's 319th Glider Infantry. After recovering from his injuries, he was wounded again some months later when his unit was ordered into the Hurtgen Forest. I kind of wish the disclaimer here would not be needed, and that we're all hopefully grown up enough to the point where we can discriminate between appreciating good clothing design, good tailoring, and the history behind men's garments, and their military origins, without having to worry about it being misinterpreted to mean that you're throwing your support behind the politics of that particular military force, or it's political leaders. The video was fascinating, but I did not care for the disclaimer. But -- it's the internet, and God only knows who's going to misinterpret your good intentions. Thank you.
*I TAILOR BESPOKE HISTORICAL SUITS* 1890 - 1930 the books I have from that period often show both the civilian and the military versions of the same pattern They also give you all the designs for the gold braiding for each regiment and rank. I will be watching the coronation tomorrow for the uniforms and the braiding which is utterly fascinating to me. If you look closely it is all just gold rope sewn into patterns - the uniforms are made by Saville Row tailors who have been working VERY hard to finish them - Charles being a very thrifty person has had them re-use the Queen Elisabeth 2 buttons instead of having thousands of CR2 buttons made for the event.
@willnoir781
Жыл бұрын
I’ve been looking to have a bespoke uniform made for myself. The current Air Force uniforms are a poly/wool blend that’s just not super comfortable. Would you have any recommendations as to where I could find someone who could make a 100% wool Air Force uniform in the same 1620 Air Force blue color?
@HistoricGentleman
Жыл бұрын
For the most part the only foot guards regiment that would have and does require new buttons as well as shoulder board cyphers are the GG (Grenadier Guards) as the other regiments use regimental buttons that do not contain elements of the current monarch.
@piccalillipit9211
Жыл бұрын
@@HistoricGentleman - You clearly know way more than I do. I felt sorry for the bookmakers, they were probably expecting a big commission...
Definitely do more detailed videos on how particular military wear became fashionable civilian wear and vice versa: The trench coat being an obvious example. That said, there's been an interplay between the gear outdoorsmen use and the gear military soldiers use. An example is the "ghillie suit", which started as a hunter's camouflage in Scottland but was later adopted by military snipers. The famous "duck hunter" USMC camouflage uniforms of World War II were often worn by hunters in the post-war period as an inexpensive substitute for more expensive camouflage patterns sold during the period. Even plaid, in earth tones, was a primitive camouflage pattern used by Scottish hunters. Please do more videos like this one.
@gentlemansgazette
Жыл бұрын
You can find out more about the trench coat in our video and recently updated article: www.gentlemansgazette.com/trench-coat-guide/?
For the ladies, Mid-Victorian fashion was directly inspired by two military units. The first was the Gabrialdi shirt, a loose fitting garment inspired by the Gabrialdi Red Shirts. The Gabrialdi shirt might be considered the first women’s blouse. As with many other fashion trends of the era, Empress of the French Eugenie was the trend setter. Ladies would often wear a Zouave jacket on top. The Zouave jacket being inspired by Algerian Berber units that fought for the French. Many European and Union Army would have Zouave inspired units.
@moredistractions
Жыл бұрын
Side note to your comment: a Civil War Union Zouave uniform sold a few years back on eBay for $60,000.
i teach in japan. and i often mention about this to the kids. a lot of the things we wear are mainly from the military. especially in japan with their school uniforms. or even their backpacks.
Always appreciate your gentle and fine information about classical suits
A video on fashion that started in the military sounds really cool.
I love old military uniforms, I sometimes search online for some military coats to eventually buy (to this day I didn't buy any because you know... University student budget) and I really like the overcoats from the Italian navy and army, old ussr overcoats and Spanish army trenchcoats. P.s. it's GiuseppE Garibaldi with the E like in Elephant, not Giuseppi. Btw black in uniform is also used today by Italian Carabinieri whose uniforms were designed by Giorgio Armani, amongst the most beautiful, if not the most beautiful in the world.
Red was used a milary colour because it was one of the cheapest and eaiest pre-inductrial dyes. Similarly white, as used in pre-Revolutionary Franch and Austria was ubased on unbleached wool. Natural dye material explains a lot of colour choices in the militaries befor the mid 19thC. By that period the Europeans had pretty much developed they nation colour schemes.
I would really love a deeper dive into this. I've been waiting for GG to cover this topic for a long time now. Antonio at RMRS has done similar videos, and he is a veteran. I would like to see a civilian side tackle the ways classic military garb has found a second life with the civilian world since the 18th century. I myself am a veteran, and there are still pieces today a stylish man can wear, such as my Navy Peacoat or trench coat. Though I admit it's much harder today due to both the camouflage aspect, but also how most branches dress uniforms haven't changed in a century or more. And considering we don't dress like that anymore, seeing you guys go into spiritual successors of things would be very interesting!
I collect military uniforms and equipment, mostly from the first and second world wars, but I also take an interest in classic menswear, so I'm really stoked that ya'll made this video!
Really appreciate the content as always so thanks for all the work you all put in. As a classy gentleman in his 30's I've been enjoying learning more about all the classic pieces you discuss and upgrading my wardrobe while still keeping it mainly casual so thanks again. I know you can't always get back to all comments but thanks for acknowledging them whenever you have the time. Hope you all are enjoying your weekend.
@gentlemansgazette
Жыл бұрын
Thank you, Manuel! We're glad to be a part of your sartorial journey 🙂
@Manuel421
Жыл бұрын
@@gentlemansgazette Thank you gents as always. Much appreciated!
Much of the artwork you pulled for this video is fantastic, and I especially enjoyed the American and Byzantine paintings. Such detail.
7:12 As far as I know, many nations used undyed gray or whitened fabrics for uniforms occasionaly or always due to the fact that it was way cheaper than using dyed cloth. Especially when you had to gather an aditional army it was hitting the "wallet" of the nation pretty hard. For example, during the Great Northern War czar Petr I of Russia ordered the troops to change their colorful uniforms to mostly gray and white ones because it was way less expensive to produce them.
Another excellent video. Keep up the great work!
I've been waiting for this video since I subscribed, thank you!!!!
@gentlemansgazette
Жыл бұрын
Glad to hear we were able to deliver! :D
0:50 There is no way they decides to put a meme on the video,this is why i lovw so much this channel,it can be formal,and either casual,i llllllove it!
Great episode ❗🔥💯👍
The historical depth you bring to style talk really takes this channel to a new level
I had a conversation about this with a friend of mine from Hungary. I was wearing a black trench coat and he told me that the Hungarian army war that type of coat. I explained to him that its name, the trench coat, is a reference to its military origin in the trenches of WWI. Since my trench coat is black, it actually makes me feel like a German military officer. Of course, trench coats are now associated with detectives and flashers.
I love this video!! Thoroughly enjoyed seeing all the colour and uniform combinations over the centuries! I’m prompted to buy a Hussar jacket like the one Jimmy Hendrix wore.
Black uniforms in the SS were worn only by administrative units, not special forces so Algemaine SS (not waffen) and were decommissioned shortly after the beginning of the war if I remember correctly
@JohnSmith-lf4be
Жыл бұрын
Sad because those are the best looking ones.
A few months ago I always wanted to know how many clothes were inspired by military and there’s a lack of videos about this area
@gentlemansgazette
Жыл бұрын
Glad to be on the same wavelength!
Sgt. Preston, Thanks for the History Lesson! 🎉you’re the Man 😊
Fun fact, before the War Between the States in the US gray uniforms were used by state militias and military academies(which still use gray). The gray was a cheaper dye then blue so the state militias if they issued a uniform used the cheap dye to show a difference between regular and militia. Even at the start of the War some of the Union troops were state militias and wore gray which made some of the first battles difficult for both sides to determine friend from foe.
Love the ensemble Preston!
Your oufit is on point. Yes, this is an old military term...it kinda fits...I'll let myself out.
8:46 Croatian Uskoks look stylish. Greetings from CRO
An interesting video would be one about 2 vs 3 button jackets, when 3 button jackets are preferred, for what body type the history of 3 button jackets &c.
0:54 That attempt at meme was abysmal!
you should have compared military suits to modern suits, like when they are shorter, and gauntlet cuffs, and the belt varieties
Hey Preston, do you wear the Oliver Peoples O'Malley eyeglasses? I have been looking at them and was going to order me a pair after my next eye appointment and wanted to get someones viewpoint on it. I love the classic look of them and think they would look great for my style.
I always remember the navy blue double breasted jacket worn by then Prince Charles (now King Charles). It had brass buttons and was an unusual 8x3 button arrangement. His father had one too, only it was 8x2.
Outstanding video great job. You deserve this medal Preston 🏅🪖from a U.S. Army veteran.
I definitely enjoyed this video Preston! Great work! Thank you so much! Lisa
I would say the height of uniform style was reached during the napoleonic wars. It has to be said German Uniforms had the edge too in the twentieth century even if they were the baddies.
As the grandson of a holocaust refugee I am so thankful that you mentioned the disclamer about not condoning the actions of the various armies causes while discussing the uniforms; especially since you went into the fact that the wehrmacht uniform was grey. One of the reasons why I love your channel is because your team has good values. Much love.
@dandiehm8414
Жыл бұрын
From a style standpoint the Nazis had some of the best uniforms ever. They got a LOT of things wrong, but they got the uniform right.
@siegfriedo
Жыл бұрын
Muh six gorillion, heh?
Brit watching this minutes after the coronation after seeing your Instagram post, love it guys, and the timing is impeccable
I worked in the desert in Saudi Arabia. The sand was consistency of talcum powder. Anything that was not khaki tan would instantly look dirty and dusty. It seems like a no brainer once you're there.
Looooooove this
I think even those boots which the Knights would cover with sabaton, was an inspiration for shoes in my opinion.
When I was seeing the series called 'SHARPE', what an amazing experience honestly, very well executed. Besides, I noticed those uniforms (Tailcoats) buttoning the torso part onto the same side as the buttons, sometimes they would do a criss cross and look like peak lapels. I cannot describe this specifically, sorry lol.
Can you make a video about "roped shoulder"? Where is it from, What are different styles, how is it done, do you like the style?
In my all years watching this channel I'd thought I'd never see a wojak meme here.
And it still is a heavy influence. Modern men's clothing is a direct descendant of major conflicts like Vietnam and Gulf wars.
Liebe deutsche Gentlemans, wo kauft ihr eure Kleidung? Ich bin grade am Anfang mir klassische Outfits zusammenzustellen und so begeistert von den Videos, kann aber schwierig diese Kleidung finden, insbesondere Hosen und Anzüge im klassischen Schnitt. Gibt es hier Erfahrungen oder Empfehlungen?
The last "e" in Giuseppe in pronounced like the other "e". Which is how the letter is always pronounced in Italian or Spanish or Latin. Like in əmericə.
Civilian influences military, or military influences civilian? A little like the chicken & egg riddle, isn't it? The 18th century uniforms illustrated in the video I think illustrate how civilian fashion influenced the militaries of Europe & the New World. Interesting video. Thanks.
I give this video 8/10 as it could be better
I would be interested in learning about military headgear and how it diverged from civilian hats.
I heard Russian Army troops made double breasted jackets fashionable when they marched and fought across Europe from 1812 eventually entering Paris.
For the love of God, please make a video on military jackets like the M65, M51, the tropical jungle jacket and stuff like that.
Service dress whites, best suit I own.
I'll give you Dragoon as a silly British thing, but Hussar is Hungarian and Chasseur is French. 😉
I've noticed that, Preston's haircut looks like the Brian Aherne's haircut
I am interested
I believe eppuletts were designed to make sure that your cross belts that your cartridge box, bayonet and other things hung on remained in place? I like how you show a pictures of Austrian Jeigers! White french and white Austrian army's are drippy. The red of the British uniforms is because the dye was cheap in the 17th century and the new model army wanted an uniform colour to make rasing the army cheaper. After then it became tradition.
Vive le général Lasalle ! Sans doute l'une des plus grandes légendes de la cavalerie française :)
You must help revive knee breeches!!! None of that french fly style either, proper British Fall Front knee breeches.... also, sport knickers and modern plus 2's hunting breeks as well. A least do a dedicated episode on them. Failure to do so may result in court marshall proceedings!! 😂 P.S.- A nod to the Norfolk Jacket, leather ankle boots and homburg hat as part of a plus 2's modern hunting/shooting ensemble would be appreciated as well. Thank you in advance... because I know all you at GG have no yellow streak down your spines. 😂😂
Will we have any videos about the met gala 2023 or the coronation of King Charles III? Greetings from Brazil.
Military uniforms are the best attire to show off your status in rank and life, for others to admire. The non-military had to show their status as well, and hence the suit and tuxedo. A man's uniform, either way shows pride when he dresses in it.
I will a black frock coat with black dress pants and black dress boot
Just waiting until camouflaged cargo pants becomes the new standard in classic menswear.
This guy looks like Bubbles if he became a habberdasher.
I'm pretty sure I touched on this in at least one vid, but without all the old pictures. I probably think that listing the articles might be useful, but maybe not entirely unpredictable... Vest; sport jacket; pith helmet... Uh.., Well, some articles get used more often than others.
@Highland_Paddy
Жыл бұрын
I saw some vid where they said it was because soliders are disposable or replaceable and left out a bunch of those other factors.
@Highland_Paddy
Жыл бұрын
Obviously khaki was one of the most significant colors because it served as camouflage but also can be a great neutral for almost all your summer pant needs.
@Highland_Paddy
Жыл бұрын
Is it Revenge of the Fifth or Sixth? Both?
@Highland_Paddy
Жыл бұрын
We've definitely toned down buttons.
@Highland_Paddy
Жыл бұрын
But we usually call Blue Combinations "nautical"...
WW1 German early war uniform is the best.
"Cockades are cool!" The Doctor. I still like some vintage military items like wool pants. I am looking at one pair of British pants with no belt looks, buttons for braces, and a front waist that has a band that goes past the gig line.
Ever noticed Napoleon's hat, and Nelson's, and Wellington's, are all a woman's wide brimmed hat with the brim folded up in different angles
Please keep your channel strictly apolitical as you have so far. I am pretty sure everybody here very much appreciates it. 👍
Hugo Boss
I’m glad the US Army brought back the pinks and greens.
Ok cool but the fanny pack didn't come from military menswear.
Why are you doing a Freemasonic Hidden Hand for the thumbnail?
2:00 "They're gonna talk about the SS at some point, aren't they?"
@piccalillipit9211
Жыл бұрын
HAHAHAHHAHAH and they included the "are we the baddies" clip 😀
@MrHappy4870
Жыл бұрын
You can say a lot of bad things about the NAZIs, and rightfully so, but one you thing you can't say is that they had no fashion sense.
@dandiehm8414
Жыл бұрын
@@MrHappy4870 Yep - From a style standpoint the Nazis had some of the best uniforms ever. They got a LOT of things wrong, but they got the uniform right.
Golly, could you apologize anymore? The videos are to be for gentle-MEN
hilarious that you needed a snowflake warning. crazy how soft they've become.