Currently reading Gods And Kings. The Rise And Fall Of Alexander McQueen And John Galliano, by Dana Thomas. I highly recommend!

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

I concur, a bloody phenomenal book, really interesting to see how their lives and careers paralleled each other

@scpatl4now

11 ай бұрын

I just bought it over on Audible. I look forward to listening to it (my preferred method for books) while I work.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

@@scpatl4now Im also a huge audiobooker, I really recommend Scribd if you don't already have a subscription

@danathomas2845

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Thank you.

@DaltonPorter

10 ай бұрын

Just purchased that to read! Sounds fascinating. Is that where the text references are from in this vid? Love it and thank u for sharing these incredible analyses!

I have always been a fan of John Galliano's work. The collections he created at Dior are just marvelous.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Hes so exceptionally talented, what has happened to his brand is so unfair

@c.w.8200

11 ай бұрын

And so memorable, I'm not even a big fashion buff and I can recall some of his designs that simply stuck in my mind.

@agabrielhegartygaby9203

10 ай бұрын

I think you have absolutely nailed the problem for me: I don't see / experience the beauty. I am glad you do because if he can inspire people and give them only what an experience of Beauty can, then he, em, might be worth the trouble? Makes it all so much more understandable to me thank you. Delighted to be wrong at least in part....

@traceyestes

10 ай бұрын

I agree. John is an artist. He really understood Avant Garde.

@agabrielhegartygaby9203

10 ай бұрын

While I co not share the aesthetic response that's more than ok - vive la difference! Fashion is supposed to do this, I think. Some assholes will be real geniuses others a weird kind of seducing fraud sad part we will only tell in retrospect. As for the clothing we all like what we like and the reverse too. I will give him one thing gladly: he has got us all talking and thinking and that's a good thing.....personality can sometimes be irrelevant;;;;;

Quick reminder: John Galliano is still one of the most prollific and gifted designers in history and is steadily coming back to us! Maison Margiela Artisanal Collection 2024 is by far one of my favorite collections this season and a true statement of John's creative and theatrical prowess.

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

100% an incredibly talented man. That is undeniable and unshakeable

@johnhobbs621

3 ай бұрын

Agreed and not 'steadily', people are literally going wild about the 24 Margiela show and with good reason, it was absolutely brilliant.

I get the impression that John Galliano was never truly happy being a fashion designer. It seems as though at most points of his career he was being pushed to do things he really didn't want to do. I've never met a "happy" alcoholic, and in my opinion there is a special place in hell for those that knowingly facilitate and push someone to continue being a drug addict.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Yeah, it does seem that way, I don’t think he was happy very much

@justinwilliams7290

7 ай бұрын

He would be happier designing opera costumes and the like, it seems.@@understitchYT

@bojanaaa

6 ай бұрын

Exactly my point. I totally agree. Very similar story to Alexander McQueen and look where that went.

@johnhobbs621

3 ай бұрын

From what I've read he always wanted to be a fashion illustrator first and foremost. He worked for the National Theatre (I think) in the costume department which must have been a perfect match. Maybe designing costumes for films would have been the ideal career for John, huge theatricality and budgets without any need to sell the clothes

@tonygarcia5197

26 күн бұрын

I kinda agree with you. When he was accepted in design school, his portfolio was filled with fashion illustrations. He was an illustrator! Unfortunately, that median has fallen off the wayside to photography. Remember, Andy Warhol started his career as a fashion illustrator (Shoes).

Design-wise Galliano was the absolute best thing that ever happened to Dior since Christian Dior himself. Nowadays Dior seems to be completely lost. And the current designer killed the brand's legacy by visually turning it into 90's Prada unfortunately, in my opinion... There's no more Dior in Dior...

@understitchYT

9 ай бұрын

idk if Dior is lost, theyre in a growth of financial gain. Often you see that with brands who will use one designer to grow the profile and then the following to grow the profits. Actually, you can often see it collection by collection, one to sell and one to work as promotion. Obviously its not always as binary as that, but thats what I believe theyre doing now, still reaping the benefits of the profile Galliano built

@chequemate449

8 ай бұрын

Dior is currently overpriced TK Maxx. Not as Avant-garde n died when JG left. End of Story. Even their perfume doesn't get a spray

@miola2083

4 ай бұрын

Dior now is so bland.

@jamesward7789

Ай бұрын

Very smart observation about current Dior. Galliano created the most iconic designs since Dior himself, though I do love the YSL costumes for the movie Indiscreet 1958 (when YSL became Dior's replacement).

I will never forget Andre during one show shouting “THIS-MAN-HAS-NO-MONEY!!” Thank you for your exceptional dedication to these career Biographies. Truly fascinating 😍

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

I love ALT so much, his book is absolutely one of my favourites ever, I need to do a biography on him

@lucky-belindaniko9732

10 ай бұрын

​@@understitchYT YES, PLEASE

I was a teenager in the 90's, these designers were presented by the media as the epitome of cool. Honestly looking back at them now with this information, they just seem so incredibly sad.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

They were LAUDED in the 90s! Helmut, John, Lee ALLLLLL were lauded and so screwed over by the big companies, used and milked dry, its awful

I have the 12 inch single of Madam Butterfly and had no idea John Galliano illustrated it. So interesting that he never set out to be a fashion designer, and illustrating by candle light for "authenticity" shows some real dedication to the craft.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

There’s actually a lot of really interesting stories of people that were involved in the creation of that fan that are told in some of the books that I referenced in this video, if you are wanting to look into more of the story behind it, I think that the gods and Kings book is a good place to start 💖 (though fair warning, the stories are quite short, a page or two in every book)

@johnhobbs621

3 ай бұрын

Please could you post a photo of the illustration, I'd love to see it.

I mean the man. However the brand has rallied on the secondhand market and will I think be more widely collected, as the memory of his episode fades. Margiela Artisanal '21 for example will be remembered as one of the best collections of his career.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Has the brand been resurrected? It certainly hasnt happened yet🤷‍♂️ maybe you mean the man, who has seen quite a strong return to fashion

@Air.keccc1

11 ай бұрын

They mean the person not the brand

I remember that show in 94. The one in the house. There was a staircase, and models descended in those bias-cut dresses. Gorgeous. I was 23, I was obsessed with Galliano. Thank you for this amazing video.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

The video of the show is available on KZread, it’s not the best quality, but it is great to see

One of my biggest wishes in life is for Arnault and Galliano to reconcile and be invited back, or for Galliano to buy back his namesake label someday and fully make it into a haute couture house. Sadly, given the nature of the fashion industry, this will probably never happen. But I can still have some hope! 🙏 This video was great, I really appreciate all the research that goes into your work, it really shows!

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Arnault is a numbers man and unfortunately it seems Galliano wasn't the best at making clothes that would sell; bags yes, very much, just not necessarily the clothes. I wonder, if he was brought back to LVMH, would he *only* do a couture line and have other people to pump out the same cash grabby garments that they are releasing now, almost in the same way Margiela has him now (not that margiela products are a cash grab, theyre watered down a bit, but not a cash grab imo, but theres no way Galliano is designing the accessories and high margin items, plus they have a lot of cash cows atm, so I could see this model be used for the Galliano label). Really, thats the only way I could see Arnault bringing him back tbh. I also dont think he has the money to buy back his own brand, he would need an investor, and even with an investor (maybe the OTB group would do it honestly) he would have to prove that he has learnt his lesson about the balance between commercial and media grabbing pieces - which to be fair is what is happening at Margiela, so it genuinely could work, I just desperately dont want to see him get cocky again and ruin his business. This was a lot of my very conflicted opinion 🤣 I'm glad you liked the video

@blackvirgo09

10 ай бұрын

Never going to happen, they should release galliano tho. ! Also I wouldn't want to see John back at dior! The work load is killing,

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

@@blackvirgo09 The work load is just far far far too much

@michaelocampo9786

10 ай бұрын

@@blackvirgo09 I just want to see Galliano back at his namesake label doing 1 or 2 haute couture collections a year. Dior was definitely way too much for him. Everyone loves his showpieces and I think people would pay big money to acquire those custom couture items instead of the everyday commercial pieces.

@capucnechaussonpassion14

10 ай бұрын

Him getting back into the fashion industry doesn't seem great for either fashion housses or himself ? What would be a better thing to wish for him is to get better, mentally, so that he can stop fan boying about hitler, no ?...

Still my most favourite fashion designer, absolute genius.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

He’s one of the great designers of the period for sure

@cezartb

10 ай бұрын

I would even say he is the best of all designers.

@agabrielhegartygaby9203

10 ай бұрын

Confession: when fashion feels "off" I am definitely not objective. I would be thrilled were you right geniuses are indeed worth all the trouble mentioned above. We may be both right time will tell.

Great video! I’ve been waiting on a John Galliano deep dive. Controversy aside, he truly was/is a visionary. His work for Dior will always have my heart, lol. Awhile ago I actually found a vintage beach bag/tote in the iconic newsprint design from his brand on Depop, and it’s one of my favorite pieces.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

The galliano newsprint or the dior? (Both iconic of )

@TayahPrice

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT The galliano newsprint! I wish I owned a Dior piece 😭

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

@@TayahPrice imo the galliano one is rarer, its for the fashion girlies

@redlady935

10 ай бұрын

That was the most flattering dress SJP wore, the newsprint dress. Looked amazing on her

@newgabe09

9 ай бұрын

interesting to know at least one thing he designed is actually wearable/usable.

it only shows how incredibly difficult it is or was to be commercially successful in fashion even when you have all the support of the biggest names in the industry. also, i don't understand why did they decide to keep John Galliano brand "alive". it's kind of ridiculous to have a brand named after the designer who's still alive but has nothing to do with the brand. it's like a cheap fan merchandise. but i was pleasantly surprised to see Galliano piece in Troye Sivan's new video for Rush. Maybe younger audiences will pick it up :))

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

I think a lot of his difficulty came despite all the help he had. He literally had people throwing money and resources at him but wouldnt make a commercial collection to ensure an ongoing finance. He was particularly difficult to his business partners, he was very lucky to have all the help he had On his current brand, I dont know why its still going either, maybe they hope he will come back to the brand one day?

@ljbx8

11 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT they haven't shown a collection since 2019. it's owned by LVMH and it likely won't be back for a while.

@jonnyfendi2003

10 ай бұрын

LVMH apparently sold the brand whether or not he owns the rights to his name I have no clue.

@amlo7179

10 ай бұрын

"Why did they decide to keep J.G. brand alive?" Remember Chantal Thomass?...

@Patrick3183

9 ай бұрын

Troye Sivan sucks

❤At LAST! Galliano... My Favorite designer of all time. I feel very strongly about him as a Genius and a man of his time. Granted, he chased his demons ( as we all do!), but as a designer specifically for me during his tenure at Dior... He reigned Supreme.... He spoke to me as a consumer and I have gone out of my way to purchase pieces from his Era. As usual, you give so much education and research and time spent watching your videos is valuable to me. Thank you.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

I’m so glad that you enjoy the video, you’re right that he was a real design, genius, his designs still hold up today, and I think that’s a true testament to how talented he is

I remember the collection with the models running in huge crinolines and antique lace, it was breathtaking.. Compliments on yet another great video.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

I could watch that show on repeat, it’s absolutely incredible, and knowing that they managed to get the crinolines to lift up in that way because they used piping from the hardware store, just adds to the beauty to me. ALT described them as ‘lighter than air’ (or something, I dont remember his exact words)

Galliano - best era of DIOR. He is a genius!

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Without Galliano, we would not have today’s Dior

@mizcracun

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Yes! He has a unique sense of style, he is so theatrical. A real fashion artist.

There isn't a single fashion designer from any Slavic country that could create (hell, even imagine) a good enough collection inspired by Slavic folklore as Galliano did for AW 2009/2010.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

It reminds me a bit of a maximalist version of Helmut Lang’s first collection

@vm1ccc

10 ай бұрын

Now I have to look up the Slavic countries

@aleksajankovic626

10 ай бұрын

@@vm1ccc Poland, Czechia, Slovakia, Ukraine, Slovenia, Croatia, Bulgaria, Russia, Montenegro, North Macedonia and Serbia.

@thecoldglassofwatershow

10 ай бұрын

@@aleksajankovic626Estonia

@aleksajankovic626

10 ай бұрын

@@thecoldglassofwatershow no, Estonians are of Finno-Ugric origin.

I do not agree with the things Galliano has said and done, but it cannot be denied that he is one of the most visionary designers of our time.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

I think most people would agree with this

I freaking love your work. You are a great narrator and I love how you simplify the story without giving away the book. Just ordered it TY

@understitchYT

7 ай бұрын

Im so happy! Dana is a great author

Great video. Honestly I don’t know much about fashion, but his last show has me going down a rabbit hole after seeing his talent.

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

Hes so incredibly talented, it's really a tricky situation he ended in. He actually needed LVMH money to live, to survive, but it was the pressure of that that caused the downfall. Really a tragedy

Excellent mini doc once again! This filled in alot of gaps about his history for me. Thank you for you efforts

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Im so glad you enjoyed another video! I loved making this one, so interesting

That first season of Galliano that didn’t sell well, yeah, I absolutely love those designs. Fantastic, he was a total visionary and trailblazer. Every one of his collections were brilliant. But most designers do a scale down of their designs for market. The runway has the more elaborate, even one of a kind, versions, then the stores get the slightly scaled down versions. Very sorry he didn’t get the right advice. Such a capricious business. And John’s story is just more proof that the world always pushes those who are great, geniuses, toward mediocrity. After seeing this, I want to collect pieces from all his collections, except the fur. He was a great artist, his lines, concepts, asymmetries, cuts, features, colors, textures, flows, everything was brilliant.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Galliano rarely sold well when he was being creative and so as a knock on, when it was time to actually sell product, it went very hard in the other direction. Imo, if he had actually listened to the good advice earlier in his career, he would have had a good balance of creative and commercial in his design leading to an actually viable business (in the way mcqueen did). All he needed to do was to have a few commercial pieces per season so that the business could make money and he routinely refused. So when the time came to make money they were almost forced to make dramatic changes 🤷. Basically, the way the merchandise is now may not have been his idea, or what he wanted, but he was very much the reason it ended up looking like that

Enjoying all your videos so much! Thank you!

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Thank you for commenting 🙌

I was literally looking for this video YESTERDAY. You knew 😭

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Telepathy

I adore his designs and was sad to see him cancelled. I saw him in an interview and he seems to be in a much happier place now.

@understitchYT

8 ай бұрын

I think he was caught up in the 90s idea that the most shocking thing you say the better, because it meant more attention and more sales, so he was the unlucky one that went too far

Love his early work, mad, romantic and wistful.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Truly a visionary

Fascinating. What a tough industry. Thank you for fantastic video.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

It’s incredible isn’t it, he had so much help to get his brand up and running and successful

@anonymousonlineuser6543

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT I am guessing here, but his reluctance to make commercial clothing indicates that the man wanted to be an artist, should have been an artist, but was diverted into fashion and thus never fully realized himself or felt happy. Alcohol addiction was probably a medication for broken dreams.

I love John Galliano, I'm devoted. I would be his assistent or Pier Paolo Piccioli's one. I love his creativity, his sense of fashion and what he did in late 90s for his brand and what he did in Dior.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

He’s really a very talented designer, it’s a real shame what has become of his brand, though it’s not the worst of this kind of company

Absolutely LOOOVE these videoes! It's like a refresher of things I already know and more. Would you ever consider including "luxury" high street brands like COS, Fillipa K, GANNI etc. Have been a fan of COS (AND GANNI) lately and they also do fashion shows as well as this luxury line they call Atelier? ( can it even compete with true luxury brands??)

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Ohhhhhh so youre psychic 🙊🙊🙊

I actually remember the showing of that gorgeous yellow gown that Linda Evangelista wore. It was stunning. I cant remember if that came before the McQueen ostrich feather gowns or after because I can see the influence in either direction.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

I don’t know too, but I do know that McQueen would copy Galliano‘s ideas and do them better, so maybe that is what happened 😂

@ljbx8

11 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT do them better? hard disagree.

@scpatl4now

11 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT If so, that would definitely fit the pattern 😳

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

@@ljbx8 well, he at least thought he did them better and was very very open about his attempts at trying Galliano's ideas, with the most famous reinterpretation being the Galliano clam dress that McQueen tried and tried to heighten (and eventually succeeded according to the Gods and Kings book)

@nelsonmcduff5218

10 ай бұрын

@@ljbx8 100%. McQueen wasn't in the same league as Galliano. His work often reminded me of other designers (not just Galliano, but also Gaultier, Westwood and Mugler).

One of my fav designers of all time… what a great great story. In comparison to his pass, now seems to live such a quite live.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Now seems like a total redirection in his life. To be honest, I don’t think the past Galliano would ever have an idea that he would be living as quietly as he is now. Or maybe he isn’t living quietly, and we’re just not being told about it 😶‍🌫️

@FlyingSnow1509

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT all true tbh). But yeah, I still remember golden time of John at Dior and Galliano brand being “it brand”))

Amazing !!!! A new video !!! Thank you !!!

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Hope you like it 🙌

@virginie1725

11 ай бұрын

As a french, Galliano is if course a major designer of the nineties. I still remember the "j'adore Dior" tee-shirt that every girl had to wear.

Ngl I just heard the name sometimes and his story was fantastic, thx for the video really informative.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Im so glad to hear you enjoyed it 🙌

love your videos as usual you're doing so many good research ! can you please do one on Wolford please ???

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

The underwear brand? Thatd be so interesting actually

@emmahamer286

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Yes the Austrian one selling tights, bodysuits … Happy if I gave you a nice idea 🫶🏼

You did amazing on this. Johnny is so enigmatic to me...I don't want to be a designer? My gosh, tell that to the countless bits of fabulousness walking yearly under his gaze, and ours! What riches ensue! Thank you. 💋

@understitchYT

8 ай бұрын

Isn’t it amazing? you would never guess that he didn’t want to be a designer, and he was kind of pushed into it, seeing what he looks like

I ❤ your videos. I always feel smarter after watching.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

You are kind, you are smart, you are appreciated 🙌

To be fair he did do a bit more than say an anti-semitic insult, which is what some people portray it as. He literally celebrated the Holocaust, said he loved Hitler, and told people he wanted all Jews sent to the gas chambers. I am sure there may well be severe mental health issues behind it, but something like that is just far too much for a brand to recover from, you can't keep the culprit on the team and PR your way out of something like that so I do totally understand why he was dropped.

@nelsonmcduff5218

10 ай бұрын

In addition to being anti-semitic, his diatribe was also misogynistic. I think he deserved what he got.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Oh definitely, he should have been dropped, it was an awful thing to say whether he meant it or not. But that does not also mean that the company is not culpable as well. They worked him to this level, and they knew they were doing it. They were aware of his troubles and did nothing to help, they even enabled it to make money

@jakecavendish3470

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Oh definitely, I am sure they did exploit him in terms of workload

@janbarrett4544

9 ай бұрын

His tirade of antisemitism cannot be forgiven.Any support for sending Jews to the gas chamber is an abomination no matter how much alcohol he had consumed to unleash that opinion.

i've always loved galliano's designs at dior and his namesake label, but i never knew his whole story. it's just incredible how the fashion community came together to promote him! i would love for him to come back to his own label

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

Hes so talented, he was so fortunate that Andre Leon Talley could put in so much effort for that to be seen

I found some beautiful JG pieces in Saks off Fifth in the early 2000’s. Gorgeous clothes but too small for me at the time. Wish I’d bought it because JG was a terror but a amazing designer. See so many current Ghesquiere designs that come from JG. IE the oversized zippers. JG is the example of follow your heart not the money or the fame. Had he just been a illustrator and graduated into a designer, like Karl L, he may have been able to learn the business and manage himself better. Great video. PS Bernard Arnault is the devil. Nothing like turning creativity and artistry into Temu/Shein for the wealthy. Thanks Bernie 😑

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Those fashions that got away are so annoying, I once saw Raf for Calvin Klein in TK Maxx and an early McQueen coat in a vintage shop and they both haunt my dreams. I agree with what you said about JG, if he had had time maybe it wouldve been less traumatic for him, less pressure and he certainly couldve mirrored KL if given the time But with JG and KL, both gave up on their namesake eventually, so I dont think he cared all too much what Bernie did with his brand 🤷‍♂️ (which is a real shame)

I just finished reading The House of Versace by Deborah Ball and would kill for you to make a episode about the rise and fall of Versace

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

I really desperately want to do a video on Versace, I just need to figure out the perfect time to do it

@Lordpizzacat

11 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT honestly with the size of the topic it might have to be a muti part series from gianni to donatella to the introduction of fendace

@scarletdemonss

11 ай бұрын

The only falls we should expect from Versace are seasons, an unfortunate death of Donatella or when Lindsey Wixon used to fall every 5 seconds about 10 years ago

McQueen, Galliano, and Lagerfeld❤ I miss the fashion scene up to the 2010s It's in a coma now..Most of the Kings and Queens of fashion are dead or dying.

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

All incredible designers for sure, but hopefully this opens the stage to a new gene

Why was his work as head of Maison Margiela not mentioned? And why is no one mentioning it in the comments? I really think his creative flare is still 1000% burning through his collections at Margiela, it makes me so happy to see him present his edgy deconstructed work for a brand that has a great cult following for unique designs. But I don’t know the numbers on paper of how successful it’s been, will there be a seperate video of Galliano at Margiela?

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

Because the video isnt about John as a person or about Margiela. Im talking about the brand specifically, so its irrelevant information (though Id love to do videos on both at some point)

First I saw the length of the video and said: really? By the last 10 minutes I said: what? just 10 minutes left? I want Moreeeee! I'll always love his work and now knowing that he was in charge of "THIRTY-TWO" (OH MY GOD ) collections, makes me appreciate more his work and genius mind. This man gave us many iconic moments for Dior and Galliano itself. Nowadays I even trying to get for myself the "trailer trash" Dior bag from the "diorella" collection.(which is featured on the video). Really love this one very much, I finally understand the history of the brand but I don't know why LVMH haven't returned it to John even more if the brand is not commercially significant.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

I was actually considering doing a video about his life story, in the same way I did with Karl Lagerfeld, that way I could include more information 🥰

@immrcat79

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT yes please! I'm in! (as usual with your videos) and may I suggest you do one about McQueen. I'm also quite interesting if McQueen nowadays is a Fall, a rise or something in between. I'm trying to get which is the profit of the brand right now (and your videos are so helpful in order to understand the business) Thank you! ❤

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

@@immrcat79 The McQueen videos are on the way (but wow are the books about him hard to get through), the brand video will be out this season and I think the life and death will be shortly after that

Could be entitled The Rise and Fall and Rise of John Galliano. His latest show for Maison Margiela is spectacular.

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

Oh undoubted, but thatll have to be saved for a futuee video on Margiela

Galliano was great illustrator but not a great designer in the classic sense. I'm reminded of recent fashion reality shows, where we see people who can sketch pretty things but can't cut a pattern or sew to save their lives. Growing up with a mother who was a professional seamstress, I just find this sad. And most if them, or none, have Galliano's vision to compensate. This is why Alexander McQueen is the GOAT for me. He had the vision, could design and sew, and understood fit and tailoring. Hype yes, but the foundation under was impeccable.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Well Galliano could sew, he was really talented at sewing actually, he completed his graduate collection mostly by himself, with a little help due to time, he made a lot of, nearly all his early couture gowns and even experimented with materials to the point that it made ALT notice his talent. So he *could* sew, its just after he didn't have to anymore, he just chose not to (and he also would refuse to personally sew a garment for another fit model other than himself which is why so many of his early clothes had a lot of returns). However, with that said, McQueen is known as the last true couturier for a reason, his construction talent was and is still unsurpassed, he possessed skills enviable of even the top sewers in the entire industry, a genuine talent both in sewing and in concepts. Galliano also had both talents, but McQueen far surpassed his technical skill, not because Galliano was bad, but because McQueen was the best technical sewing in the business.

@blackvirgo09

10 ай бұрын

Galliano is a master dress maker,

@elinstar6034

7 ай бұрын

​@@understitchYT😊

love your videos. can you consider doing one on American Apparel? even though it was mostly basics and not necessarily high end (although pricey), I used to love that store for their quality, they also started trends like the disco pants and tennis skirts. I have clothing from there’s that I bought like a decade ago that still stand the rest of time but I know the creator and branding were controversial. Do you think they could ever make a comeback? they were like one of the OG ethical/sweatshop free brands

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

I really want to cover more accessible retail actually, Ive always loved high fashion, but the highstreet logistics are bloody fascinating and have always kept my interest. Tbh I was planning on saving that expansion until I was a but bigger of a channel, but with so many bridge and diffusion lines now, it certainly could be discussed sooner 😇

my favorite cate Blanchett's look was a Galliano from oscars 99, impossible to forget.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Its so stunning

What amazes me about the fashion industry is that people in it actually think it matters. Is like folie à deux on a massive scale.

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

Fashion really does matter, its one of the biggest industries in the world and affects people on so many levels, from garment workers to hobbyists and creatives. Fashion has the power to change the fortune of whole countries, of course it matters

@Sosi288

5 ай бұрын

"Fashion has the power to change the fortune of whole countries" Is this kind of grandiouse claims from fashionistas that make me cringe.@@understitchYT

@understitchYT

5 ай бұрын

@@Sosi288 but it's literally true, textiles is such a huge money maker for many countries big and small. France, England, Korea, Italy, China, Turkey are all countries that either currently or at one point rely on the textile industry to grow or sustain their country. It may be cringe, but its not incorrect

The talent never fall ... always a legend

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

That talent is forever, a master of design

I was wondering if you were as impressed by his last couture show for Maison Margiella?! I have been watching it several times and still get goosebumps..

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

Its absolutely incredible, one of the best fashion shows in recent years undoubtedly. But then I expected it for their couture debut. The RTW was basically already couture and Galliano is known for being extremely dramatic

I come from the future and Galliano has become on of the if not the most important designer of the fashion industry because of his Margiela artisanal show and the incredibly amount of ppl wearing his designs at the met gala 2024

@understitchYT

Ай бұрын

I come from the place of having watched the video, it’s not about him as a person, it was about the brand

I consider him a leading figure in fashion and certainly someone whom we need considering how blend the industry is at the moment

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

A part of me wonders if the industry being bland today is a direct response to Galliano. They realised with Galliano that they needed hype to sell clothing, but they realised after Galliano that they didn’t need someone to be so outlandish in order to get that hype. If it wasn’t for Galliano and McQueens success being so heavily improved by media, I don’t know if model that we have now of average brands, having a lot of hype would exist at all

@beardreview

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT interesting am thinking it's culture as a whole, a lot of the other creative world looks to be the same.

Does this need an update?

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

I dont think so? Do you know something I dont?

@flynnware8946

4 ай бұрын

@@understitchYTdid you not see the margiela show?

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

@@flynnware8946 That doesn't have anything to do with his namesake brand. This video is about the business not the person

this man this genius this .... this man is my absolutely favorite designer , i had made many of his inventions in the eighties of course as much as i could with cheap fabrics and paying what i could to have it made by anyone who wouldnt mind, this man is absolutely beyond hes the greatest of all the designers

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

Imagine if you had an original piece from his eatly collections, would be incredible

I would love to hear your thoughts on the Maison Margiela show from a couple weeks ago

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

It was absolutely incredible, true artistry and very blatant in its goal. It knew it wasn't a commercial collection, it was promotion for the brand, securing their artistic merit; and it worked

Wonderful work on Galliano! Well done!

@understitchYT

7 ай бұрын

Thank you so much 🥰

The spring summer dress that Linda Evangelista wore is one of if not the most beautiful dresses ever made.

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

Could not agree more

great video

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Thank you!

Thanks for the very interesting clip and tip about Dana Thomas’s book. Galliano was wonderfully theatrical at Dior, which seems a more pedestrian label without him. He seems rather subdued at Margiela; perhaps they don’t have the same budget? Actually, thinking about it, he does seem like an unusual fit for Margiela.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Yeah, he was a very unusual fit for Margiela for sure, Im not really sure what they were thinking, but it is stunning beautiful and the retail method Galliano helped begin at Dior is suiting them very well, their accessories and tabi sales are through the roof

@mickho7910

10 ай бұрын

Thanks for replying - I’m glad that both Galliano and Margiela are doing well. You’re right, the unravelling knitwear is gorge.@@understitchYT

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

@@mickho7910 I try to reply to everyone if I can, I just genuinely love everyones thoughts and opinions (even if they think Im wrong, I always want to know why)

Sad what happened to John, who I’ve met on several occasions

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

How lucky!

Great video like always! Why do you consider being the head designer of Maison Margiela a little comeback

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Well Margiela wasnt really his comeback, he returned for oscar de la renta and it went quite badly

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

He had his hair in curls in front of his ears and people thought he was mocking hasidic jews because of it and a whole bunch of people had to make statements

Why didn’t you mention his lovely Margiela collections? Also please do a rise and fall of Helmut Lang, and a Margiela video.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Helmut Lang is coming very soon!! Its on Patreon on Tuesday or Wednesday, and Margiela Im also desperate to do 🥰

@TripleVortex

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT ok thank you icon! its wild how Helmut’s brand went from avant garde to premium denim zara-ish, and now maybe back to something good soon? Also dying to know what he’s been up to. ALSO always wonder what it feels like to sell your name and have it bastardized and spread thin.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Im not including what helmut is doing now in the video bcs its not reflected in the brand, but hes an artist now, a fine artist and hes proud of his work at the brand

What is the name of your channel with beauty brands?

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Its underskin, its linked in the description box 💕

My cousin Gianfranco Ferre was the designer before John Galliano. He stepped down to open his own design house in Milan.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

He was there for seven years, right? I was always curious about why he left because it seems like Bernard pushed him out in favour of splashy designers to fit his new idea of luxury

And his rising again ! He is a genius designer ! Happy to see he came back after resetting his life .

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

I wonder if his label will ever rise again

@mathilde1212

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT I don't know , I never heard about his label again after had worked in his last collection. also because I left Paris many years ago , and he have to make himself quiet in this city. Many peoples where not happy about the accident.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

@@mathilde1212 but thats what this video is about

@mathilde1212

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT I would have been very tired when I watched it , I would do again :p sorry

If they want to bring the John Galliano brand back to life they could always try adding JOHN GALLIANO to it..

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

It needs a revival from someone thats for sure, and John is a risk, it could go very bad or very well

Can you please do one on christian lacroix?

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

I still think this is a great idea

Great little doco 🫶❤️😃

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Thank you so much!

Much of what you are saying artistically about galliano in the 80s I picture Victor and Rolf. Love to hear your opinion on that brand

@understitchYT

9 ай бұрын

one of my favourites creatively

It was my favourite brand! Love what he’s doing at Margriela

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

I enjoy ut too, but I understand the criticism also

Always been a fan. Supremely talented

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

Agreed, very artistically gifted

A fantastic piece of research and very fair representation, the only thing I'd question is your statement that John has made 'a bit of a comeback' since his firing at Dior when, from the moment he began at Margiela, there has been a huge buzz and excitement with the Artisanal 24 collection THE most loved and talked about shows in recent fashion history

@understitchYT

3 ай бұрын

Well, tbh, Im painfully british and when we downplay something like that it usually means the exact opposite, so ‘bit of a comeback’ would mean ‘a damn strong return’. But on top of that, this video was out before the artisanal 24 collection, otherwise I probably wouldve mentioned it 🤍

Damn he really kept getting in his own way.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

Yep, and not really thanking anyone

Always admired John Galliano ❤

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

he's genuinely very talented

My favourite collection was black, it was absolutely amazing

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Its interesting that both him and McQueen had Black collections

Would love an update after he owned the spring runway this year

@understitchYT

2 ай бұрын

Theres no update, this video was about the brand not the person

At his peak a work load completely unsustainable, a man torn between unbridaled adulation, dubious working alliances, unchecked creative intoxication and personal peril .... a cautionary tale .....he has certainly has found his stride with Margiela ... the current ongoing narrative of the house is proving sensational .... an inspired pairing .....a thought also for late Oscar de la Renta for reaching out to him and opening a door when he was virtually an outcast .....

All I can say is John Galliano was before his time. He was the present future of fashion back then. I admire his artistic vision and sticking to his ideals.

@understitchYT

2 ай бұрын

You think so? I think he was just about right. I think that anyone with his kind of talent trying out today would find it hard to succeed

Ps I met Steven once, a then friend who I studied fashion with at Middlesex briefly worked for John after graduating and introduced me to Steven in Subterania nightclub in Ladbroke Grove. John was there too but I didn't get to meet him. Now Steven pretty much always gets a bad press but when I met him I found him very bright, warm and interesting to talk to. I enjoyed meeting him very much.

@understitchYT

3 ай бұрын

Oh that is very interesting. Do you think its exactly that demeanour that allowed him to gate keep Galliano so successfully?

Would love one on Halston

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Oh I would loooove

This makes me curious how you consider him as a designer. You refer to his "genius" and his commercial successes and failures, but I'm left wondering how you rank him in terms of overall impact....and how you rank him as a Dior designer. I vastly prefer Raf, though his tenure was short. I don't know...just curious.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

As a designer, not as a person, I rank him pretty highly, but he is certainly of his time. I don’t know if we would’ve seen anything much from him if LVMH’s business model wasn’t changing so drastically at the same time. His lack of ability to make anything for an actual client is a real problem, and a massive flaw in his skill. For that reason, I think he lacked a very vital part of being a designer, he simply could not create clothes for the average person, and relied on other people to translate his designs into something wearable. For that reason, I consider him more of an artist than a designer, but what a talented artist he was (for reference, often artists rely on someone to translate or consolidate their work into something meant for a gallery, whereas a designer tends to have more involved in that process)

@ljbx8

11 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT this is a completely misinformed view. you argue that he was unable “to make anything for an actual client”, which is completely false. a cursory look at any vintage fashion auction sites or reputable couture resellers would show you that galliano created many custom gowns for clients, which in essence were toned-down, diluted models of his runway archetypes. dior was behind only chanel as the most profitable couture house and that’s thanks to john. this notion that he never made any wearable clothes or was unable to translate his runway designs into wearable pieces is misinformed. it shows you very little you know of the process of actually purchasing haute couture or being a haute couture client.

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

@@ljbx8 Youre right that Im generalising and being hyperbolic, but I'm not wrong that he routinely had fit issues, few sales and a lot of unwearable garments all up until other people took over that side of his business for him (at which point he was at Dior, which would fit in with your timeline too). It's quite well documented. Also, youre right that Dior was very profitable in those times, but thats not because of his couture sales, its because his couture created hype and that sold shoes and bags to the mid-masses (which was the first time this model had been used to successfully without using a subsidiary or RTW line like they did back in the 70s-80s). Actually, theres a lot of quotes from Bernard that he didn't care if Galliano's work sold or not, that wasn't his job at all, Galliano's job was to create media attention. But, again, by that point, Galliano wasn't constructing the garments, he was directing others to make them, at this point he was barely touching the garments before they left the atelier, something that the Givenchy team witness the change in even and said they didn't like. Galliano could sew, but he was bad at making clothes that fit anyone but himself, not because he couldn't, but because he didn't want to. He chose not to

Great video, I knew John at the time he and JC were together, it was a disaster not good for either of them, I worked for JC with Mark Tabard and left after about 18 months

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

Sorry, I think Im being dense, which JC are you referring to?

Visionary almost every piece from his past is relevant today. Pure artist God bless you 🇬🇾🇨🇦⭕️=⭕️

@understitchYT

9 ай бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it!

Ooh this is a big one!

@understitchYT

11 ай бұрын

45 minutes isn’t for the faint hearted 😂

I wonder if he had put tags in his first garnets that were bought immediately after the showing. If they didn't, given how quickly the pieces were snatched up and sold in boutique, I could see a situation where one of the first pieces could have ended up in the second hand market, waiting to be found by an unsuspecting buyer; or, horrifying an option, torn up for rags or tossed out to garbage after discarding without the knowledge or its value or provience.

@understitchYT

6 ай бұрын

There was an auction not too long ago actually and the seller showed off the pieces on ShowStudio. We werent shown a tag, but actually a care label tag is a legal requirement, so they will have had some form of identification because that usually includes clues or information about the collection. They dont have to include the brand name in the tag though, I think it was margiela that had a rough start to his career because of not wanting to include them (could be someone else, maybe Im misremembering) so it is likely there was some kind of ID in the clothes

I love that 50s collection and Linda’s yellow dress

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

She once said it was her favourite dress ever

The Rise and Fall and RISE AGAIN!!!!! HE’s a TRUE designer and because of that he will ALWAYS RISE!!!

@understitchYT

Ай бұрын

He’s a great designer, but the brand itself is a shell now

The newspaper print dress that Carrie wore on SATC lives rent free in my brain. ❤🎉

@understitchYT

2 ай бұрын

right?! omg I still die over it, its so iconic

@tdsollog

2 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT We need more adventurous fashion. But, I was a kid in the 70s and 80s, so I'm biased.

@understitchYT

2 ай бұрын

@@tdsollog My dad was a new romantic and he never lets me forget it ahha

@tdsollog

2 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT 😎💕

I love his first label crest

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Right?

This guy's misogyny has his models half naked exposed on the runway - his contempt for his audience, his customers, his supporters reveal something more disturbing. This man (half way through this excellent video) seems incapable of empathy, ordinary interpersonal understanding and respect - people will put up with anyone to make some kind of money. How stupid! A drunk finds enablers - how creative! Fashion fools follow jerks like this. He doesn't even care about his reputation. When a narcissist loses interest in authentic self interest because it requires meeting commitments made to others, we call them psychopaths. The outcome is sadly predictable. I am at 2010...in the video....I think I know what's coming and I will admit it if I am wrong. This is going to end horribly.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

imo, I dont know if its contempt for his audience so much as ego mania or selfishness. He just got a lot of people telling him how brilliant he was and therefore didn't think his customer knew as much as he did, which is obviously very foolish for retail. He not only found enablers for his addictions, but also for his way of thinking and so yeah, youre right that the outcome was predictable

@agabrielhegartygaby9203

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Great point! Using the enabling model just as the drunk ends up in the worst possible state, a series of yes-men/women inflame hubris....we all know where that leads.

Amazing the work of an artist fighting his art with money

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Fighting his art with money is such a good way to put it

@shimicruz8759

9 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Sorry my english is bad I mean he was always trying to make his art I understand him now like he is a painter, an illustrator who makes amazing characters in fashion but he, of course there was the figh: unwereable art vs soldable clothes. Of course his spirit in every detail of Dior from the graphic design, to the couture is exquisite.

Seriously sad how vicious the fashion industry remains and unnecessary the clash of personalities often are between creatives and business.

@understitchYT

8 ай бұрын

There was a reason it got the reputation for being bitchy 🫣

His style is a bit too querky for me, but I have a great Long Grey Coat from Galliano that I really like.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Is it galliano brand or from dior?

@Cali_Girl1

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Galliano.

His work was revolutionary. Although, he did have the most powerful people in the industry pulling stunts for him.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Right, he was talented, but noone wouldve seen it if it wasnt for everyone that helped him

@SquizzMe

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT Exactly. Heaven knows how many more other talented designers are laying about but without John's connections.

He is now better than ever!

@understitchYT

4 ай бұрын

As a deisgner yes absolutely, but the brand is still in the shitter ahah

There's a documentary called "Catwalk". John is in it.

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

Its on KZread!

A phenomenal designer. He will always have a place among the greatest designers. I pray his star continues to rise.

@understitchYT

3 ай бұрын

Most definitely, a real shame what happened to his namesake though. Actually, I think he's the first designer to have a scandal that truly ruined his namesake brand, only for him then to return in spite of how bad the namesake is

The early stuff looks kinda ahead of its time - the grunge 90s were just around the corner!

@understitchYT

3 ай бұрын

Truly truly incredible. Maybe thats why the brand is still around, maybe one day itll return to its former glory

I CANNOT BELIEVE THIS CONTENT IS FREE

@understitchYT

10 ай бұрын

💸💸💸

@stevensonjc21

10 ай бұрын

@@understitchYT signing to the patreon NOW