Check out www.wardaddyminiatures.com and www.ebay.co.uk/str/wardaddyminiatures for the best selection of pre-painted Warhammer minis in the world!

My first printer was a QiDi. Fantastic printer, great support as well.

Brilliant work, yet again

I'm excited to hear your views a few months down the line. It'll be nice to hear about how often you use the thing and what you've used it for. It's a fascinating bit of tech and I see it's various uses but it does seem to be a lot of money to fork out for something which has the potential to be meh. Always great to see your reviews and proud to be supporting your work!

@MSPaints

9 ай бұрын

It’s very odd. I haven’t used one of these printers in years, and like with actual regularl paper printers, so much progress is made, but the basic issues always seem to be there!

i love your humor brah! TY!

You mate get a like for the wardaddy add and voice over alone! Going through back catalog now.....

Good choice for your prints!

@MSPaints

9 ай бұрын

Aw yeeee! This thing is gonna make me a stargrave table!

You have an awesome voice man!!

We just bought one be here on Tuesday 28.11.23 After reviewing this on KZread by few KZreadrs And will be used to do rc parts and few other things

Will check out wardaddy miniatures thanks for the heads up. You dah daddy haha

I'm looking to buy a new Filament Printer and this was a great review.

Subbed because of your puppet. 🤘❤

I'd love to get a 3d printer but alas, no space! Really good review though, keep up the good work! 👍

what material/colour is good to print and then paint for miniatures?

That intro! 😂 must have been so much work haha

Thanks for the great and honest review as well as for reminding me why I don't want an fdm printer in my life ;)

In perpetual backwards motion!

There are these modules called smoothers which remove the unwanted power spikes to the print head and remove the, I think it's called fish scaling, Some other 3D printer Guru's can give you the low down on this, I only know because I bought some to reduce power spikes on my 'N' Gauge DCC model railway. Ther are vids on here showing this. Enjoyed the live stream the other night, got loads painted.

@oleurgast730

9 ай бұрын

Actually smoothers are not used for years now. The old Allegro stepper drivers (A4988) needed them for x and y (or and b on CoreXY), as a motor also works as a generator. With a stepper motor moving step by step, so on-of-on, only smothen out by the inertia of the moving mass, but with the self induction actually deforming the signal they are driven with. "Smothers" use 8 diodes to chancel out the self inducted currents. For about 5 to 6 years now TMC drivers are state of the art. These drivers do two thinks to avoid the problem: a) instead of 16 microsteps they interpolate them to 256. b) they activly controll the current realy on the stepper motor cable and counteract the self inducted current. The last mass produced printers with A4988 were the Ender 3 pro, after that even the low cost brand Creality changed to TMC drivers. For Ender 3 and Ender 3 pro Creality offers the "Silent board" as an upgrade (but most people decided for the SKR e3 mini as a drop-in-replacement, a much more powerful 32bit boards with extra connectors for Autobed leveling and Filamentrunoutsensor). TMC drivers are often also refered as "silent drivers", as the microstepping interpolation and the self induction compensation lead to smother movement and therefore less vibration - and vibration transfered to the air is commonly known as "noise" ;-) The Qidi printers do use TMC drivers, so smoothers are nothing to add here. The only actual printers not using TMC drivers actually are bambulab printers. However, they also do not need Smoothers, as they build their own drivers. They call their technlogy "noice chancelation" but actually its just reinventing the wheel - it's the same principle TMC uses, but done a slightly different way with more controll (it's done on the new A1) and can get more information if the printer realy does what it should do.

I recently bought a P1S with AMS and a Qidi X Max 3 for about the same price. Honestly the print quality is similar, but where I've had on nozzle clog on the P1S that had to be cleared, I'm now a pro on clearing the hot end and replacing it on the Qidi. The Qidi has spent about half the time I've owned it on the healing bench, though I haven't given up hope for it yet. If I had it to do again, I'd have two P1S on the bench instead. They are just so much less fuss. Thanks for the review.

@memcrew1

9 ай бұрын

What are your issues with the Qidi?

@Immolate62

9 ай бұрын

@@memcrew1I've had to replace two hot-ends due to clogging and a tiny difference in your bed leveling with the card can make a huge difference in print adherence. It's up and running now, but the front right corner of the build plate doesn't like to stick so I work around it. I'm printing little tea-light ghosts for the driveway, and instead of printing four, I can only do three becuase of that corner. I can probably fix the problem with research and experimentation, but for now I'm dealing with the compromise.

@Catboy-hr2qp

7 ай бұрын

​@Immolate62 clogging in my 5yrs of printing experience is almost always user error, also they sell replacement nozzles on eBay and Ali for the qidi, no need to spend 30 bucks for a new hotend everytime. I be getting the xplus 3 hopefully by the end of the month and will report back, I'll also be replacing the nozzles with CHT ones from ebay dince it really does need it based on reviews to hit the stated speeds without under extruding

@Immolate62

7 ай бұрын

@@Catboy-hr2qpmy first printer was an Artillery X1 Sidewinder about 5 years ago. I've put dozens of rolls of PLA through it, and though it only has wheels to adjust bed height, I never had a clog from it. I've probably had 30 clogs on the QIDI, usually resulting from the print job breaking free from the bed and riding the nozzle. This is with the bed heated from 55 to 65 C, the hot end at 230 to 250 C and the z height set to just barely scratching to just barely able to move the card. The P1S just doesn't do this. The two printers are similar in operation with the major difference that the P1S doesn't require you to set Z height. Maybe the heat bed is unreliable. Maybe there's a trick to the Z height that I don't know about. Maybe my BL Touch is bad, but I replaced it with the proximity sensor and nothing was resolved. Look. I own the printer and I'll continue clearing clogs as needed and occasionally buying a new hot end, but if I had to do it again, I'd buy something else. I actually did just get a Kobra 2 Max for big prints, so the QIDI will fade in importance.

I've been checking this printer out since I saw a video of a 48 hour enoch helmet build. So now been watching the review videos. The loading of the filament in the back does seem awkward, though I guess maybe could have a turn table setup on a counter would make filament changes easier. I think I may wait till black friday and see if there are any sales.

@RathOX

6 ай бұрын

they are making an AMS for it

@GeedsGarage

6 ай бұрын

@@RathOXthat would be very cool. I’m loving my xplus 3 so far

@RathOX

6 ай бұрын

i was looking at the plus or max what u like about it and dont? not sure i wanna go BL with how its all closed source and propiatory etc @@GeedsGarage

any updates on short term?

Hi Dave, Enjoyed your live stream, When's your next one?

What or where can we get the tall wizard tower type building?

The Metatron has spread his wings. Hats off to you sir 👏

Gotta laugh at the "kiddy slicer." Sounds very Warhammer.

That back mounted filament looks like a pain.

Input Shaper? You said you would talk about it but never did? Otherwise, nice review my friend.

@MSPaints

6 ай бұрын

Yeaaaah man. A lot of things went out the window on this one!

Yeah, good or bad I can't consider a $700 printer "budget". Maybe if this were an industrial/commercial tier product... But it does not seem to be.

There is no such thing as 'too fast' The only metric that is relevant is HOW GOOD IS THE QUALITY. I think we all would agree printing a 300x300x300 in 20 seconds with 98% accuracy and finish is worth dying for, but then that is fantasy... for now.

I’ve seen several newer printers with exciting-sounding features like true auto-leveling, vibration compensation, self-cleaning. I’m wary that many of these fixes add a new level of dependence on new hardware and firmware working perfectly together (just as I can’t fix my car with a wrench anymore). Baffled by the filament being hidden, requiring the entire unit to be manhandled to do a frequent routine task. Set up of a large appliance may require some physical strength, but a 3D printer shouldn’t require that much physical exertion to use.

@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1

9 ай бұрын

It is what it is. No one wants to tinker or deal with that hobby level open source stuff. People can do that if they want. Serious printers want the best printers and with that is going to come squeeze on the tinker people who like tinker toys.

You and Mediocre Hobbies are opening me up to the idea of 3D printing.

lol number one issue with this printer is?! the location of the stupid filament! I have a X-Plus version err 1 and love how the filament is placed on TOP of the printer! WTF were they thinking?

So, is a follow-up about due? It's been 6 months.

I like my X-Plus 3 more than my X1C.

Another enjoyable and informative video 🤘. I would like to ask you to join me on a live stream some time.

Sadly I don't have a large enough garage for something like this..

If I ever get a mysterious box from China it better be stuffed full of Mogwai.

its 500gbp rn

just have a dry box to the sider of the printer wiuth a bowden tube to the printer, thas what I do. Yes teh slicer is reskinned prussia

I love my ender-3. 5 years later and I barely have an issues. Darn it, it’s going to die tomorrow

@shawnfairbanks9339

6 ай бұрын

Sadly I’m in an opposite boat… my ender 3 has been a nightmare dimas the beginning. I managed to get it running solid for about a year, and out of the blue recently the whole thing is garbage. I’ve done everything under the Sun to troubleshoot it (including my local reps) and I’ve given up.

It's insane how much more finicky FDM printers are vs resin printers. I'm dicking around with a Neptune 4 right now, another IT'S SO FAST and then never achieves the speeds advertised for an acceptable print one. Personally for the money i'd get a Bambu P1P if I was willing to spend $700.

@AlansWay3DPrinting

9 ай бұрын

I find that it is like everything with an "up to" modifier in front of a spec. You only get that at a very specific set of conditions. For FDM it is always "sure it can go super duper fast, as long as you don't mind a reduction in quality." I don't print as part of business so an extra 50% in time is fine if I get the quality but I understand that if you are buying for speed then it would be a bit of a piss off.

@Candyapplebone

8 ай бұрын

Yeah but resin is dangerous so… kinda balances things out don’t ya think?

@oldsjunkie1

4 ай бұрын

You speed chasers are hilarious...

@Thadopeera

3 ай бұрын

@@oldsjunkie1I just don’t get it either

@photo_n_art

3 ай бұрын

Resin printing is easy... if you don't mind working in gloves, wearing respirator, having dedicated room with exhaust ventilation, spending money on IPA (which burns your eyes) and UV cure station, risking resin burn or poisoning... So yeah, resin printing is easy 🙄

Where can I get one of those brilliant shirts? Comment section, please help out a clueless fan.

For the cost it's showing on Amazon, not even close to matching the results you'd get from a BambuLabs p1p, which is the kind of design it's copied seemingly, and is the same price range

@oleurgast730

9 ай бұрын

Actually it's a totaly open source printer based on klipper and using the designs being known for years, while bambulabs took a lot of theese design choices but made their printer closed source. Qidi made theese kind of printers for quite some time now, long before bambulab existed. In the X-3 series Qidi just updated to Klipper, which has also input shaping. Also (after the patents of Stratysys expired a short time ago) they added active heated chamber on the Plus and the Max. On the p1p (x1c, p1s) you do not get better results than on an X-3 series printer. The only outstanding feature of the bambulabs mashines is their AMS. On the other hand they are extremly loud and the printbead is anything but flat. Qidi uses an extremly solid construction. They indead "copied" two features of bambulab in the first version of the X-3 series, the carbon rods for x and the filament cutter. But they changed it in their second version to give more durabiltity (for the rods they changed to hollow hardened steel) and better coldend cooling (redesigned hotend). Do not understand me wrong: The bambulab printers are nice products. But the outstanding feature is the AMS. Filament changes need about 90 seconds and increase the printing time (and the waste) a lot. So after some time experimenting with this feature, most people actually use the AMS only to have their most used filaments comfortably ready, but barely use Multi colour (same happend to me with Prusas MMU2 5 years ago). Bambulab itself definitly get "inspired" about the "cut&purge" approch from the SMuFF-project. The only feature new on the Bambulab printers is the "filament-buffer", which is actually a feeder synchronizer. This allows the AMS-feeder to stach attached to the filament, reducing the workload of the Extruder (it does not need to pull the filament from the spool). The target of the bambulabs printers are hobby users. Quite nice, feature loaded mashines. Qidi produces entry level industrial printers. They have two seperate lines: X and i-fast. First is for single colour prints. With active heated chamber the Max and the Plus are primarily for ABS, PC and Nylon. And the iFast are IDEX for Dual materials (mainly to do support with different material).

@Elektrotechniker

9 ай бұрын

@@oleurgast730I can only agree to your points! I also own the X-Plus 3 and am totally satisfied with Print Quality and Settings. I only did one update when I received it (which I think is something everyone should do, no matter what product), and never had a single error message!

@S3snaek

9 ай бұрын

@@oleurgast730 I have an x1c & am purchasing an x max 3 as a second printer. there's several reasons for this & I think Qidi will be seeing more Bambu owners moving to their brand. It seems there is not a lot of info (reviews, tutorials etc) available on these printers compared to other brands. I've gotten much info on them from your youtube comments. Thanks! You are absolutely correct about ams & multi colour printing. the waste & additional print time for colour changes is significant. I dont really use the ams anymore as I print mostly abrasives out of a drybox through a y splitter. Id prefer an idex with a dedicated nozzle for support filament.

@Candyapplebone

8 ай бұрын

@@oleurgast730very informative post, thank you for taking the time to write this. I have a question for you. Do you know if this printer (the QIDI x-plus 3) can print any sort of material which could withstand molten microcrystalline wax? This wax is poured at temperatures between 140-200 degrees Fahrenheit, or 60-93 degrees celsius. It’s ok if it can’t print a material that can handle this sort of heat; I’d just have to use a 2-stage process instead and use the 3d printed parts to pour epoxy or silicone molds instead. Or use a lower temp wax like regular paraffin which i think is 130 degrees Fahrenheit for pouring

@oleurgast730

8 ай бұрын

@@Candyapplebone PA12 (mostly known under the trademark "Nylon") has a durable temperature resistance of 95°C and a short time resistance of 150°C. With Carbon fibres even a bit more. You can print it with most enclosured printers, but the X-Max 3 and X-Plus 3 with activly chambers are definitly a good way to avoid warping while printing Nylon. However, I have not printed PA12 yet myself, so no personal experimence for now.

Shit that's some good details for a filament printer. Fuckin landlords though right?

I have had my X-Plus 3 for six weeks now, after giving away my older X Plus. I'm now wishing I had kept the older model. Issues with my X-Plus 3 are numerous, reliability and print quality being the top issues. Also, after homing the system and I jog the table to the top, the "ZERO" position is actually about 1.5mm from the nozzle tip. Sometimes, when I jog it to the top, the Z axis will shut off when it's within 10mm, which results in the table drifting to the bottom. Other issues, NO fail-safe sensors to stop a inaccurately homed table from crashing into the nozzle or into the frame at the bottom. To top it off, there is virtually no documentation beyond a very basic quick start guide. Finally, the older X Plus made noticeably better parts. If all you are going to make are low resolution parts (over .2mm per layer) then you might be okay with this machine. I have YET to make a .16mm layer part that isn't a huge FAIL! And this is from PLA. I'm not even going to try it with ABS or something else. IMO, the firmware on this machine needs work. When selecting parts to make from their thumb drive, the user interface NEVER displays the part on the first try. I have to make multiple tries (as in over 5 tries) before the user interface will display the part. Update: I HATE this piece of crap! My two year old X Plus was slower but at least it WORKED. I loaded their new firmware (per their suggestion), and it now causes the extruder assy to crash into the finished part, with the last crash resulting in the extruder cover being knocked off. There are only two possibilities, either their firmware is crap or their slicer is crap. This system is beta at best and should have never been released for sale.

800 mm/s Peopoly Magneto X: Revolutionizing FDM Printing with Linear Motors

I'll be honest, I get the same if not better results out of a $200 Elegoo Neptune 3. Really not impressed with this unit, especially that filament loading position.

@heckinmemes6430

9 ай бұрын

Same. A lot of the problems shown here have already been solved, i don't understand why these new printers can't get it right.

@jbrou123

9 ай бұрын

It depends on what you are printing with. PLA and PETG are fine on the Elegoo, but I doubt it could print ABS, ASA, Nylon, Polycarbonate or any carbon fiber reinforced filament. But since most people use only PLA, the Elegoo's are great printers. A true budget printer.

For that money, just buy a Prusa.

@victorythagr8

9 ай бұрын

There are no prusa printer that are as good as the Qidi xplus 3 and Bambu lab p1s. Prusa got quickly passed up because Bambu lab innovation pushed the 3d printer market forward.

@ChrisPridgeon

9 ай бұрын

@@victorythagr8 I don't think that's true. The new Prusa machines are just as capable as these ones.

Budget?! It’s twice the price of a Neptune 4 pro. How are we calling this a budget model?

I love your videos, this one included, but I have to say that the price, quality of prints and the weird issues you had with this printer are total dog sh*t compared to other current gen printers at a fraction of the price. If anyone is actually thinking about buying this printer, don't, its utter garbage compared to what else is out there for a lot cheaper

Sorry, thought you said fist,damn click bait

900$ is budget these days? 😬

@jbrou123

9 ай бұрын

$650 in the US

@TheLukasz2194

7 ай бұрын

Now 589 euro for Europe. And 3% less with newsletter code

3D printing heresy! *hissing noises* Where's the White Metal Inquisition when you need them? XD