The Brutal Cost of Quiet Luxury
Paying $34,000 for a winter coat may seem outrageous, but the hair of wild camelids in the Andes mountains of Peru can fetch such prices. Fashion house Loro Piana sells a sweater for $9,000 with vicuna hair collected by members of the indigenous Lucanas community. But despite their contribution, the community receives less than $300. As the top global buyer of vicuna fiber, LVMH-owned Loro Piana's secretive supply chain highlights the use of cheap labor among Peru's least fortunate to make some of the most expensive clothing in the world.
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So this entire community earns less collectively per year than 1 Loro Piana coat? Insane
@Factory051
2 ай бұрын
At that stage I'd be starting a co-operative to wrestle back some control.
@solofunk
2 ай бұрын
Wow!!
@Factory051
2 ай бұрын
Capitalism broke decent people.
@StefanHanrath
2 ай бұрын
Honestly, i don’t think that someone who has LP coat money got rich by caring for the poor.
@yanovoyair5129
2 ай бұрын
that's right, pls help us
I am peruvian and yes, this shows our underdevelopment. Thanks for bringing this to light, the local media seldom, if ever, shows it.
@al_caponeh6185
3 ай бұрын
Yo diría muchos compatriotas casi no escuchan ni se enteran al respecto de la realidad de la cría de vicuña. They[limeño media] barely mention how it is sold at 30k usd in Europe and that's it. Such is the nature of Limeño media.
@mrcookies409
3 ай бұрын
@@al_caponeh6185 Si soy de Lima y eso es verdad, se ignora mucho la realidad del pais, y muchas cosas se aprenden por medios, ya sea sociales o de la prensa, extrangeros. Es una pena, no se cuando vamos a cambiar.
@celdur4635
3 ай бұрын
@@al_caponeh6185 En Lima si no negocias, mueres, pero tienes propiedad privada. El problema acá es la falta de capitalismo, no son dueños de las vicuñas ni de las parcelas donde ellas viven, los que organizan la comunidad se quedan con todo y le dan a Loro Piana. Agredece a Velasco por estas cosas.
This makes me so mad because Peruvians aren’t even asking for much. Just a decent income, that’s it. They are not asking for thousands to build swimming pools in their backyards. Just a little money for their effort. LVMH is a billion dollar company, they can afford it. They can’t even build a clinic for these people?
@AngelicReaper25
2 ай бұрын
They got their money by screwing many people over as did the overwhelming majority of large companies and rich people
@GameFuMaster
2 ай бұрын
the real question is, why isn't there a competitor to drive up the prices?
@Kaio.Viegas
2 ай бұрын
Trillion*
@___beyondhorizon4664
2 ай бұрын
@@GameFuMasterLVMH will buy it's competitors, just like any other businesses. This question can also post to iPhone, MacBook etc
@tshiwambitshakomeya2713
Ай бұрын
@JG-MV that's just too bad. They are people too.
So quiet luxury and fast fashion are both brutal in terms of its production.
@climactic
2 ай бұрын
Right! Someone is always being exploited
@Kaio.Viegas
2 ай бұрын
@@climactic Its case specific, the are luxury fashion houses that make things by hand. If it is LVMH or Kering yeah someone is getting exploited.
Peruvian people are excellent textile makers by tradition, they just need someone to advise them so that they can make the products themselves. The most important thing is that they have the raw materials.
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
👏 there are in Peru textile engineers experts in vicuña fiber processing, only a quick nudge to the market, and the knowledge should reach this community.
@TheBooban
2 ай бұрын
They complained that there is only one buyer. But really, if they get together, there is only one seller. Many industries in poor countries don’t take advantage of this.
@alfredoeladiomoreno6242
2 ай бұрын
Sure, that’s one step. But then they have to have access to the market and buyers too.
@allisonladd7365
2 ай бұрын
this is the solution, how to make it happen?
@thegrumpypanda1016
2 ай бұрын
sounds like them owning the means to their production.
Boycott the Italian luxury brand. Keeping people poor when their labor and animals provide luxury is disgustng. Now the story Is out.
@christinegivens9048
2 ай бұрын
💯✅
@lbc38
2 ай бұрын
It’s all the luxury brands
@louistran016
Ай бұрын
you need to be their clienteles first to boycott it, how can we stop buying something we can never afford :D
Loro Piana, remember the name..
@jamrollz
3 ай бұрын
LVMH
@tienouchou
3 ай бұрын
Remember this is the Arnault family
@yahirzamalloa8108
2 ай бұрын
Shout out @SalmaHayek
@puertousbmonkey
2 ай бұрын
I' am not buying from them anymore . lol
@iross6644
2 ай бұрын
@@yahirzamalloa8108 that's Kering - aka Gucci, balenciaga etc
I am from India and this documentary opened my eyes to the true cost of luxury, quiet and loud. Thanks, Bloomberg!
Luxury fashion is more ethical is only a myth, they pay their sources poorly, burn what doesn’t sell and not even necessarily made to last. It’s just a monopoly game for a handful of people.
@chatdanslesbottes8212
2 ай бұрын
"Ball of Vampires" as V.Putin said
This makes me so mad, the people deserve a fair payment. I hope this video reaches more people to spread awareness.
I didn't know about this, thank you for this doc
@___beyondhorizon4664
2 ай бұрын
The same situation is still happening in the Navajo nation in Arizona, at the famous Athalope Canyon. During my half day visit, I learned from the tour guide that the community still does not have running water at the famous tourist attraction! Not all homes has running water! This is in Arizona!
These workers need to unionize and come together and set their wages and other price of the wool. The fashion houses can't get the wool themselves- they need them.
@allisonladd7365
2 ай бұрын
they are also being cheated by "the community". the leaders of the community are keeping most of the money.
@___beyondhorizon4664
2 ай бұрын
They don't have excess to higher education to think in terms of macro economics
@anastasisangelis8202
2 ай бұрын
@@___beyondhorizon4664 even if they did i don't think it would help them that much without anyone backing them, it seems that the people who actually know exactly what is going on and how they are supposed to handle the situation , are not doing nothing ! probably they are being bribed , it s not hard for the local goverment to help these people , but they don't do it
Poor animals... vicuñas are so beautiful and peaceful
Thank you so much for exposing this greed. These beautiful animals and the people that care for them deserve much more.
Backward integration is needed here. Marketers will always be marketers, it is up to the Peruvian govt and the people of the community to think outside the box. Unless the Peruvian govt is in a way benefiting from such monopoly.
@Tzienzibarinzi
2 ай бұрын
@JG-MV Ha...unless they can too benefited-having a piece of cake...
Peru, my country, really has a lot of potential, but as we see, its authorities, whether state, government, municipality, mayor, care little about the social and economic development of those who are in the front row.
@allisonladd7365
2 ай бұрын
thank you for this comment. It sounds as if the community is not paying them, but, paying themselves. If Loro Piano paid more they still wouldn't be better, off. Just the "leaders". I have lived a long time in Peru and my business is working with artisans.
@user-mk5qx8cj9y
2 ай бұрын
Pero quienes apoyaron las matanzas de boluarte? La misma población
Is there another source for vicuna fiber? If not, the Peruvian govt should step in and buy all the fiber at a reasonable minimum (aka set a floor). Then turn around and sell everything to LVMH for a cost plus markup (to manage the program). Herders make money, costs the Peruvian govt no money, and LVMH either makes a little less profit, or raises their prices to people who seem to be price insensitive..
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
A socialist opinion. Who pays for the margin difference? The government? Who sustains the government? WE THE PEOPLE. Can you think about a solution that doesn’t involve the pockets of peruvian taxpayers??
@thinclient5318
2 ай бұрын
Price control will make it worse. The industry will use alternative raw materials.
@santostv.
2 ай бұрын
Giving more power to a Latin American government I wouldn’t do that, if government in the “west” are corrupt, Latin America ones come in second and in first African governments imo. Look how Coca-Cola own the Mexican government ect😂
@benzpinto
2 ай бұрын
@@thinclient5318sure but do u think the industry will use an entire different material and change their marketing and their product line up just because the raw material went up by 3x but you were selling it for 1000x markup profit previously? i dont think so, u dont even break a sweat. 😂
@Afza1husain
2 ай бұрын
A 3rd world government will be too corrupt & weak to pull this off before one of the richest companies in the world.
As French, I fill so ashamed of what LVMH does here
They are being robbed
@johnhowe997
3 ай бұрын
Capitalism.
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
@@johnhowe997false. It is a bad deal. 5:45. This report helps to the process of discovery, capitalism works really well.
I don't quite understand this one, sure LVMH could switch to another fibre, but Vicuna is unbelievable its like silk and wool put together, its one of the best fibres in the world, and its only made here, so in-fact the Peruvians in this community have a total monopoly and should band together to ensure its sold for a fair market price.
@biancarosarioramirez9151
2 ай бұрын
LVMH is the main buyer so it sets the price
Vivo en Perú y acá mismo un abrigo de vicuña cuesta cerca de $10 000. Es un robo al trabajador peruano
@paulamolinamallea642
2 ай бұрын
Yo compré en Cusco un chal de vicuña y era carísimo , es absurdo el valor en que están vendiendo la fibra de Vicuña! Los están estafando y el gobierno peruano? Cri cri cri … el colmo! Que rabia!
Guys, you can start making yarn out your vacunas and directly sell online for the knitters from all over the world! I am an avid knitter and would love to buy! Please pass this idea along to Peruvian community.
lol I remember the brand Loro Piana when I was in college. I used to love sweaters and would shop at Off5th Saks to get deep discounts on luxury sweaters but I found a simple elegant one but when I found one I saw the price tag it was $900 on clearance. I quickly put it back lol.
The truth is that luxury fashion products are all about branding and marketing. The raw materials do not matter. These companies can make coats from recycled garbage and consumers will still pay tens of thousands dollars for those garbage.
@lyrilljackson
3 ай бұрын
the truth is LVMH ceo and shareholders which they were all bobby axelrod +logan roy
@nicolelopez8897
2 ай бұрын
They already make clothing that assembles the "homeless aesthetics"
@Magftygh
2 ай бұрын
That's true. The appeal here may also be the legitimately constrained supply.
@fernandoorihuela1608
2 ай бұрын
The truth is, that high quality raw materials is the basis of luxury. Luxury brands all start and are made famous for their quality.
Toward the end of the video, locally knitted vicuna wear is shown, presumably sold directly by the Lucanas. How much do they get for that? If it is more profitable, just stop selling to Loro Piana and sell your locally made items. If it is less profitable, I guess they're better off continuing their sales to Loro Piana. However, there's a business case to be made here: If the Lucanas can get property rights to their land, they can develop cooperatives and generate more profits for themselves by controlling production, processing and shipping. This is exactly what European farmers started doing in the 19th century. It brought them from abject poverty to considerable prosperity in just a century.
@marilemos6810
3 ай бұрын
Excellent idea! I totally agree!
@hndrwn
2 ай бұрын
This is it! Cooperatives 🎉
They're also wild animals, unlike the Llama and Alpaca. Vicuñas and Guanacos are their wild ancestors.
The price and rarity prevent the animals from being exploited by overproduction demands. But yeah, labor should get a cut of the action that's realistically fair.
Peru pais sin alma ....gracias por el reportajes
Muy interessante el reportaje!
It will change soon, a few investors are looking to take over the area alongside the people living there and provide a better income so they can flourish alongside us, Loro and anyone else will have to pay a bit more if they want the same material. Or You can boycott Loro Piana and others by simply not thing their products and pay the people in Peru directly for the material and there’s tons of local artisans who can make the same clothing for you!
Excellent work❤
Wow I wonder what Selma Hyack has to say about this?
@Shreyansh111
3 ай бұрын
That's haram, or something like this 🤣🤣🤣
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
She is enjoying the benefits. By the way, she comes from a business driven family.
@winniedai3067
2 ай бұрын
Her husband owns Kering, a competitor of LVMH
The living conditions for these people are not improving are due primarily to these factors: 1. lack of education, 2. corruption in local and federal governments, including law enforcement, 3. lack of infrastructure. 4. lack of abundant useful natural resources
@andreevallecam
2 ай бұрын
The first two are recurrent meta-structural explanations for underdevelopment. Economic development in historical perspective shows that neither education is needed as start point (Ha-Joon Chang, 2011) or corruption delays it (Ha-Joon Chang, 2007). Infrastructure is essential indeed but it's a consequence of a protective economy and incentives for incipient industries by the Central government (M Gullo, 2019). About availability of natural resources, Perú and Ayacucho have plenty of them, we even specialize our economy on primary extraction, which one of the basal causes for underdevelopment. In Ayacucho, in particular, there are Pb, Au, Cu, Ag mines.
@Tzienzibarinzi
2 ай бұрын
Mistaken. Number 3 & 4 are error. In this industry, vicuna fiber you dont need so big infrastructure: Incas and peoples dealing with this centuries before proves it, as to number 4, Peru is rich and blessed with plenty of "natural resources". Vicuna fiber is but one example.
Peruvians are some of the nicest people I have ever met. There is no reason to have a middle man unless they can't ship or transform the product into the final form (clothes). If Peruvians can vertically integrate the business on their own and ship the product, they would make more money. The video just barely glossed over that part at the end though, about the "government implemented any policy to make that a reality"
There are other fashion brands that also sell vicuña fiber garments, but for a fraction of the price LVHM charges. In reality people buy the brand, not the product.
@user-mk5qx8cj9y
2 ай бұрын
En Perú mismo nos venden un saco de vicuña a us$ 10 000 y no es de LVHM
Raise the price! From who else would they buy? 🤷♂️
@coastofkonkan
3 ай бұрын
Violent middlemen, layers of supply chain, a lot a lot more than just simple price hike
@celdur4635
3 ай бұрын
You are watching propaganda, the local leaders are benefiting exploiting their fellow townsmen, since in that part of Peru there is no private property, only communal ownership.
@nicolelopez8897
2 ай бұрын
There are vicuñas in Bolivia too
@celdur4635
2 ай бұрын
@@nicolelopez8897 I dare you to do business in Bolivia lol
@kimberly9181
2 ай бұрын
Vicuña clothing are also being sold by Loro Piana from Bolivia and Argentina, so they certainly do have other sources already, but Peru should still have the bulk of world production. Still they should raise the price. While this video appears to place the blame solely on Loro Piana, it seems they glossed over the potentially corrupt government officials and middlemen who pocket allow the raw material price to get to this point. I’d wager they probably get kickbacks at the price of their countrymen’s livelihood
This needs to be seen by the Peruvian govt
@Armantomato
2 ай бұрын
I suppose their government knows everything well and maybe even wears Lora Piano’s shoes
@Tzienzibarinzi
2 ай бұрын
@@Armantomato Not the shoes, but see the pittiable way peruvian president tries these day to explain how she got 2 or more Rolex that she wears shameless in public. Shes an statal official and always been a public employee earning now ca. 5000 US. People in the government are so ignorant that I reckon they dont know Loro Piano, the sole thing they know is to steal and plunder.
That's why people need to remember the damage that the richest of the rich create with every passing minute. We definitely don't need to dream of having such a lifestyle!!
How many of those vicuna product did loro piana sell at their full asking price?
All you talking about loro piana , well kuna or Michell group also sell products made of vicuna , guanaco quite well expensive .
El Chapo will give more $$ for them wool. Explore new markets.
@user-mk5qx8cj9y
2 ай бұрын
Aquie está tu chapo .l.
That grouping technique is not a funnel, but a traditional chaku. Whereas vicuna cannot be "farmed" cause is a wild undomesticated species, unlike llama and alpaca.
Typical exploitation in the world.
@bounceday
3 ай бұрын
I'm sure they get a fair price. What makes you think a t-shirt is worth 2400$
@lyrilljackson
3 ай бұрын
@@bounceday lolllll
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
@@lyrilljacksonsocialist dreamer laughs
@Tzienzibarinzi
2 ай бұрын
@@bounceday You obviously havent follow the matter here.
What this people don’t understand is that they could also use that cheap material and make there own garment.
The concept that foreign companies will bring income and development for indigenous people falls flat as one can see. And that's why governments are required to step in with harsh/strict regulations, otherwise they will be looted as East India company looted India and many international firms continue to do so globally.
We regret very much these events, that is why if we are going to consume natural animal fabric products, it is preferable to use baby alpaca, because it is sustainable and very durable.
You do not have to sell your wool to them - find a new buyer.
How can we do something?
@om-nj2hw
2 ай бұрын
Bring awareness of the situation to a wider audience, write to that company etc
It seems sad that they are not paid what they are worth but without the sales of this special wool these ppl would have nothing
10:18 I’m genetically mostly Peruvian - surprised! So I’m going to say keep your supply chain small at home. Young people are designers, weavers, pattern makers. Someone give grandma a nice cozy house for her arthritis - let her rest. Maybe a day spa retreat!
I doubt the people who buy those even care about the exploitation, its highly likely they gained there wealth through other exploitation.
I blame Gstaad guy for the popularisation of vicuna fiber
Vicuñas are the wild ancestor of the alpaca.
Why cant they say no to LVMH
@allisonladd7365
2 ай бұрын
the "community" is cheating the workers. yes, LVMH is paying to little, but, the community is cheating the workers. read the comments from Peruvians.
This is utterly ridiculous! Disperse the profit where it belongs-with the WORKERS
How sad, hungry luxury buyers should see this show.
This is obscene
They should increase the price of the animal wool
Someone please send this to Ramit Sethi.
Can government step in and act as a mediator? Or this is because anywhere else from Loro Piana this wool costs nothing?
My gosh. So sad
Luxury is at the Gross 🤢 Expense Ratio Of The Other.
Why you guys don't just raise the prices... you control the supply chain...
"Ball of Vampires" as V.Putin said
It does bring up a disturbing thought, what else is LVMH up to?
The situation is awful for the community but the solution is simple. Piana can't go anywhere else. The government needs to step in and set a minimum price for the product. Rich people willing to pay $25000 for a coat will also be able to pay $30000. The misery of these people is unnecessary.
Biggest price is paid by the abused animals.
Y como aguantan tanta injusticia?!!!!! No le vendan a Loro Piana, hay otras empresas
in Peru 1% of the population owns almost the 30% of the entire nation wealth
POR QUE ABUSAN DE LOS MAS POBRES. 🤬 HASTA CUANDO SEGUIRÁ ESTO.
@JoshuaKing-ue4vc
2 ай бұрын
De la Ignorancia... Es por eso la importancia del estudio ...
@user-mk5qx8cj9y
2 ай бұрын
@@JoshuaKing-ue4vcno hay que ser científico para saber que es un robo. A veces compro de la marca peruana KUNA pero de baby alpaca y veo que un abrigo de vicuña cuesta us$ 10 mil. Creo se necesita inversión en este caso del estado y no me vengan que por ser empresa del estado va a arrojar pérdidas ya que el margen es gigantesco
Wow
Peruvian owners of these farms are rich
This pisses me off to new heights. I will never buy Loro Piana again.
They need education. Knowledge= power. Knowledge= skills ( to make products, brands, marketing) Knowledge= insight in the market Knowledge= insight in supply/demand Knowledge= insight in trade skills Knowledge= real life knowledge. Nobody gives you anything in this world if they don’t fight for it. Knowledge= the insight that « hard work» alone get’s you no where in this life without intelligent planning/organization Knowledge= realism. The global consumer is amoral and pay for quality, image. The suffering of the producers are forgotten after the trendy woke consumers has told their « virtue speech» at a fancy lunch. Pretending to be virtues. Knowledge: they need to adapt to reality, not fantasy. That is adapt to the gloabalised capitalistic world. This lifestyle will not survive. The world is a brutal place, even if they have lived this way for 10000 years, it could end tomorrow
Why don't US ban Loro Piana or LVMH
@jctai100
3 ай бұрын
Because they're Italian and not Chinese
@SK-vg3mw
3 ай бұрын
Because doing unethical business is not illegal.
@umar_choudhary_
3 ай бұрын
Welcome to so called Capitalism world
@Aiuto-vk5tq
3 ай бұрын
Because it’s in the interest of the Americans. But you are right, we should ban LVMH and “business” like that, they only harm the world. We don’t need them.
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
Because it doesn’t affect national security.
Boycott LVMH, it is time.
It’s expensive because people are buying them.
Then why dont they sell to someone else?
Deberian tener un hospital para los vicuñeros exclusivamente y un equipo médico con todo el equipo necesario para sus revisiones medicas de manera regular. Deberian tener un comedor comunal para ellos con un cocinero que les amntenga alimentados con una buena nutriciøn. I hope this message is being viewed by Loro Piana and the rest of the producers. This is totally UNFAIR
Arnault didn't get rich ethnically. Why is this a surprise?
government should be of help but most likely government has its own benefits from LVMH
Shame on LVMH
Argument for LVMH is that they have been the ones to bring this fiber to life. They take this fiber to their textile experts who bring it to life in fabric. Many many designers would like access to this but can’t as there is no other manufacturer to have this in fabric. They’ll have much better luck having selling it by fabric
Who is buying a 30k winter coat though?
Why did you show this? Now the Chinese are gonna come to Peru and take Vicuña to china and profit from it in a mass scale. Like they did with seeds of native Peruvian produce a few years ago. You could see Chinese people in remote areas of Peru asking about the benefits of native products, and buying or getting their seeds. Why did they do this?
@davidarana791
3 ай бұрын
Is a heavily protected species in Peru, as of last month they were only around 7 businesses allowed to use vicuña. But honestly who knows, you may be right cus the Loro Piana thing I’m very sure started because of the government and I can see them messing up again, and worse this time
@billinsf88
3 ай бұрын
“Take” and not purchase?
El compatriota es el peor explotador.
Boycott LVMH
True luxury can never be created by exploitation. Typical Bernard Arnault
I visited Peru. Their mineral wealth is substantial, and have everything needed for an all-sector economic boom. However, the constant, desperate low-trust nonsense and general Latin spirit of irresponsibility is like a lead weight around the ankle of someone treading water. Also, the Peruvian urbanite is amazingly lonely, even compared to the US or China.
Are they farmed or are they roaming in the wild?
@PaolaMorenoRoman
2 ай бұрын
Roaming wild - it is forbidden in Peru to have domestic vicunas because they are endangered species :(
@EK4B16A2
2 ай бұрын
They are a wild species, you can't farmed vicuñas.
Buy less, wear longer, boycott bad brands. Save the money to lift others from poverty. Let love be our fashion statement, for the rich has enclosed the commons and flogged the working people to destitution.
LVMF
Raise the price of your product due to sacristy and uniqueness and LVMH will have to comply. Or what? They will make a $33k polyester coat?😜 nah. You have the upper hand still- they need you more. So raise the price.
Capitalism at it's best
@EK4B16A2
2 ай бұрын
No, monopoly and lack of information at its best. The main issue here is that these communities are not organized; they do not process, transport, etc. They sell a super raw produce with low value.
This kind of activity is not capitalism. No monopoly may exist in capitalism because it destroys competition which is a foundation of capitalism!! This monopoly can be stopped by refusing to sell the raw material at artificially low prices.
@TalEdds
3 ай бұрын
Refusing to sell means poverty and destitution, this is late-stage capitalism, where the means of production are not given their fair due.
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
They are managing the extraction of the resource, as private enterprise. The failure is not rapidly respond to market changes. They need more market and technical knowledge to increase the value of their fiber. Market solutions are need it.
@petepotr4078
3 ай бұрын
@@TalEddsfancy words be careful, neomarxist ideas only create poverty
This is shocking and absolutely disgusting. Thought it was bad enough Putin seems to be a cover model for the brand but this adds to how dirty this company is. LVMH-shame on you, not cool.
Down with the wealthy!
1st!!
What a horrible brand