Great video ! 👍 was waiting for this one for a while. I have the glow plug CEL on. Trying to resolve it.

Great video. Can you get explain more about supplying voltage to the plug and how this causes the fuse to blow? How did you connect the home made fuse link during the test? Cheers

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

The fuse link is just a wire with a fuse in it. One end connects to the positive battery terminal and the other end is touched to the glow plugs' connector. If the glow plug is good it will draw some current, but not enough to blow the fuse. When the glow plug is failed and shorted it will draw enough current to blow the fuse very quickly. If a glow plug is failed open (aka burnt-out, the other way they fail) it will not read 12v on the meter. So testing with the meter checks that the plug is not "open" and the fuse checks that the plug is not "shorted". Anything between is "good".

Will any of these issues will throw a code on the autel? I.e. would you run some diagnostics before you get into this? The van I just had y’all look at is doing this back up in the climes of NC. Thanks for the vid guys!

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

Glow plug issues will throw codes that are clearly glow plug or GP module problems. Fuel and air codes can sometimes be misleading, keying the wrong part as out of range. Glow plug codes are more definite and usually point to the correct plug or individual circuit on the module.

Great video and exactly what I need as the glow-plug warning light stays on on my 1997 Sprinter 412D. Now I can figure out what I need to replace, thank you. You mention another video you have showing how to remove the glow-plugs without damaging them. Do you have a link to it, please?

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

We didn't make that video (yet). There has been some delay.

@andrewpearce6082

3 жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan That's unfortunate, but thank you. Thanks to your advice I now know that I need to replace glowplugs 2 & 5 on my 2.9 TDI. However #5 seems to be almost inaccessible, so any advice you can offer to help get it out without causing myself more problems would be very much appreciated.

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

@@andrewpearce6082 Soak it every day leading up to removal with one of these: Some folks say PB Blaster is good, others say transmission fluid. I like oven cleaner, Easy-Off is best. Get the glow plug wet and warm every day for a few days in a row then turn it out with a tool like a battery ratchet or cordless driver that smacks repeatedly, different from a hand ratchet or drill that will apply steady force. I've tried to understand the difference in air-tools and electric impact drivers compared to the smacking rotation of a battery ratchet and believe the battery ratchet is simply best for this job.

@andrewpearce6082

3 жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks again for the advice. I used RP-90 (penetrating fluid) twice every day, plus a daily heating cycle, for a week. The result was that, following an initial effort, they simply turned out using a 3/8" ratchet and 12mm glow plug socket with moderate starting force. I was however prepared to use my battery ratchet per your advice if necessary, but wanted to feel the required force first. Next job is to clean everything out (for which I have bought a couple of sets of cheap small bottle brushes, that I will use with light grease to catch any debris) and then fit the new glowplugs using Mercedes ceramic grease in the hope of avoiding problems in the future.

This video is very helpful! I performed these tests on my van which is throwing code P0674. When testing for short circuits on the glow plugs 4/5 glow plugs cause a drop to ~10V and do not blow a fuse. The other glow plug (cylinder 4) does not cause a drop in voltage and the fuse does not blow. I am assuming that just means the glow plug is bad and needs to be replaced. Is that correct? I would just test it using your first method (seeing if it heats up) but I'm hesitant to go pulling it out if I don't have to. I saw your video of how to pull glow plugs using an impact, but it still scares me!

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

No reason to pull it out for testing. I'm not sure what you mean "cause a drop in voltage". If you read 12v the injector is not failed-open. If it doesn't blow the fuse it is not failed-shorted. One glow plug powered on for 10 seconds should not cause your battery to drop to 10volts. Something fishy with your test process or battery dying.

The module just has to do with the engine starting right? Bc I have a Diesel knock on 5. (Unplug and plug) sound comes on and off. New Injector and glow plug. Still knocks

@FloridaVanMan

7 ай бұрын

Glow plugs won't have anything to do with a knock. Have you seen my video titled "Knock Knock, Who's There?"

Did you put the positive lead of your multimeter on the positive terminal of the battery when you were checking the voltage through the module connector?

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

No, the positive lead of the multimeter is the red lead seen in the video as we are testing the module. The Negative lead from the meter is not seen and it is connected to the negative terminal of the battery or any good ground.

Mine has open circuit on all coils

hi and thanks for your GREAT videos ,if you get a chance could you tell me a reason for my glow plug light coming on once my engine starts then goes off after 20 seconds ,the engine starts and runs very well with no issues but this has been happening since i bought van over 2 years ago ,and dont even know if this is normal ,thanks in advance

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

Sorry, we've not seen that symptom, but it is not normal.

@gagebeeler7912

Жыл бұрын

It means you have a faulty glow plug open or shorted, ECU tries to engage glow plugs sees they are not operating correctly then stops trying. Light goes off.

Can you tell me where you placed the black lead on the multimeter when you were checking connections for glow plug and the module. Thanks

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

Any good ground. In the video I had it on the negative battery terminal.

@jonathankeerie9129

Жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan thanks for your help

so, i tested my glow plug module and they show around 10 volts but the battery is 12 volts and over. i keep getting a glow error code and i ordered this for $40 from china. Do you thinks it throwing code due to the low voltage?

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

Yes, 10 volts is low, maybe from a bad ground wire or crusty connection at the glow plug module.

is there anywhere to find a wiring diagram for a 2003 T1N Van? My glow plug module does not have power but I have power on both sides of the fuse but after the fuse the wires are covered with lots of tape and shrink wrap, thanks much for any kind help, regards Paul

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

The T1N Sprinter group on FaceBook has a files section and Sprinter-Source.com has tons of files to search through.

@paulbatt446

2 жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan Thank you very much sir for the info. Have a great day

Hey Bill great video! I'm having an issue with my sprinter I replaced all the glow plugs but my engine light still comes back on and it gives the code "component R17 is faulty" do you know what that could be?

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

If the glow plugs are good it must be the module, unless you have a wiring problem.

Hiya Sirs, firstly thank you for the video. Matt here in cold damp Cambridge UK! May I ask your help please? I have a 4 glow plug sprinter (2005) and have tested the connector, have 12v across three but only 8.5v on one 🤔. Wondering what this means? an issue? replace that glow plug? On the connector test with power and fuse I'm not getting a blown fuse on any just a reading of slightly below 12v (11.5 on 3) and the one at 8.5v first test showing 12.4v! On the module test I'm getting 0's across the board so will replace that. On this though I wonder if just replacing the module and not addressing any glow plug issue now is just asking for trouble down the line🤔 Any thoughts, comments or just a hello would be greatly appreciated. ta Matt

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

If any glow plugs blow the test fuse it can blow the new module. On this test the voltage is only showing the fuse has not blown. If the voltage consistently drops when testing this glow plug that suggests the plug is drawing down the battery without blowing the fuse. Something is wrong here.

Great little tester. So the question is what is the lifespan of a glowplug. I have heard u should replace at about 70000 miles. Or just replaced as they would die. Good tutorial

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

The lifespan of a glow plug is similar to that of a human. Some seem to live forever while others die young, unexpectedly, and not always a clear reason. I am not a fan of replacing good things because they are old. Maybe I would have when I was younger? LOL

@gregboyd4321

3 жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan ok

@zambotv8150

3 жыл бұрын

@@gregboyd4321 I have a couple of T1N's I changed one glow plug on the van with 215K, the other van is at 145K no glow plug issues yet, they're a pig to get out,

@gregboyd4321

3 жыл бұрын

@@zambotv8150 and this is one of the big reason to change the plugs that I have been reading. Thanks for ur reply

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

It’s especially a big with the OM612 intake manifold. Should be a breeze with the 647 manifold! -Mike

Thank you for the valuable video, but you need to buy a Power Prob III, it will make your job way easier.

@FloridaVanMan

11 ай бұрын

Looks like a nice tool. Maybe I can get them to send one for review. LOL

@alkhashtee

11 ай бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan I can send you one as a gift, but I need your help to figure out my Sprinter problem please

Do you guys have the codes proving that the glowplugs were bad?

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

Yes, this van had multiple glow plug codes.

I don’t fully understand you testing the large connector off the GPmodule. You said each had 12 volts going accros it ? Doesn’t the GPmodule supply the 12 volts ? Or are you testing resistance?

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

12 volts on the volt meter is merely showing the fuse in my test wire has not blown. When the meter shows no volts I know the fuse has blown meaning the glow plug draws too much current or is shorted. The test wire wrapped around the meter probe is providing 12 volts to the individual glow plug through the probe and into that connector which leads to the grounded glow plug.

@Sugarkryptonite

11 ай бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan I believe he is referring to your first test, where you disconnected the large plug from the glow plug module, and you started to probe each glow plug pin with the connector disconnected from the module, not when you had your test wire in place with the fuse. I don't see how they could all have 12v with the connector disconnected either. Where is the power coming from with the connector disconnected?

Guys have very little knowledge about electricity. When you are testing the glowplug harness where do you put the red wire of the multimeter? Also when you are testing the module's pins where do you put the black one? I'd appreciate the answer. Many thanks for the videos anyways!

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

When testing the glow plugs over the harness the red lead is connected to the fused test wire used to demonstrate the glowing plug. I see now how that got lost in the editing. When testing the module the black lead from the meter can go to any good ground point. Often we find the battery terminal is best, if it reaches. And you are not wrong, we don't know much about electricity. When I touch it, it hurts! What more do I need to know? LOL Just a joke.

@csanadfekete1280

2 жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan sorry I meant to write that I have very little knowledge lol 😀and I did ask the question seriously.:) Anyways you answered one of my questions I have one remaining: When you test the harness itself, at 3:14, where is the red lead connected to?

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

@@csanadfekete1280 At that time the red lead is connected to a test wire with a 10 amp fuse in it. If the glow plug is shorted the fuse will blow and meter gets no voltage. If the glow plug is open the meter gets no ground so no 12v on display.

what if i'm not getting twelve volts to the plug before i give it 12 volts

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

The plug is 5 wires grounded through the glow plugs. you should not get 12v there before you give it 12v. If you are not getting 12v to the module check fuses and I think there is a relay deep under driver seat, front edge. But which one is a guess.

@user-wt2ji9ih3o

Жыл бұрын

It’s not a guess, it’s clearly in the wire diagram… Don’t you have a factory manual? It covers 2002-2006…. How can you do electrical without a diagram or component locator? Oh let me guess, just back probe with battery power until you let the smoke out?

You can test continuity without applying voltage. I'm sure u know that

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

True, but that will only find some failing glow plugs. Some fail to open circuit. Some fail to dead shorts. Testing resistance will identify some of both but letting them actually heat-up will prove they are working without overloading, blowing the fuse or GP-module.

@user-wt2ji9ih3o

Жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan no that's exactly how you test a circuit and it will find every failure every single time!!! if its open the meter will show open (no resistance or OL) if it's shorted it will show 0.0 ohms ( or calibrated zero)

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

What is the proper ohm reading for a good glow plug? In my experience most failing plugs will pop the fuse immediately but a few get hot before they pop the fuse. These will destroy the old style module with internal fuses and trip breakers on the new style.

shorting to battery definitely destroy your glow plugs... some models are not to see more then 5 volts across them

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

5 volt glow plugs don't belong in a T1N Sprinter. Those are NCV3 parts or other vehicles.

215$ now

I really need you to clarify something that isn't correct. The harness between the glow plugs and the module ( large connector) you first tested while disconnected and claim there was batt voltage ( I Don't use 12v as a reference because that confuses people) that open harness is a path to ground through the resistance of the glow plug and cannot have any voltage without being supplied.... You wasted a lot of fuses and time doing this in a way that doesn't make any sense.... since the open harness between the GPM and GP's is a path to ground, you would simply measure that resistance, one lead to the engine block (where the GP's are getting their ground, and other to harness wire) if open then GP has failed open, if very low resistance or 0.0 resistance, its shorted internally to ground.... by feeding voltage through to a direct short, you can cause wires to melt etc. I still want to know how on an open harness you were reading battery voltage from the glow plugs to ground? did you energize the block with positive voltage?? As much as you've maybe helped anyone, you have added more confusion to a straight forward repair... also the amount of resistance within the GP circuit is not just from the GP's them selves, so performing an ohm test on the replaced glow plugs could find an issue as to why someones vehicle is eating modules! how were you getting battery voltage on a harness disconnected from its power supply (GPM) when that harness is to ground? also no 15-20 amp fuse will handle a glow plug, hence the reason for the GPM which is a high current relay, you know that big red wire connected to the GPM? that carries the current needed to power the glow plugs... take the brand new glow plugs and use a 15a fuse and power the glow plugs, the fuse will blow!!! you have not measured the resistance in the circuit across the glow plug and you really should know what you're doing before making a video stating so! I would like you to take the very glow pugs you said were shorted and tell me how many ohms resistance is actually through them, I'll place a bet they were not all shorted! and how do I know this.. because those GPM's like to melt and catch fire if even one GP is direct shorted.......

@user-wt2ji9ih3o

Жыл бұрын

I'd like to add, if you're blowing the small fuse for the GPR, its not necessarily anything to do with the glow plugs themselves, the GPR (low current side) is malfunctioning... the high current and low current are not connected, hence RELAY, that's what relays do, they take low current control (ecm) to make high current control... but its smart to OHM the glow plugs (through the harness) for shorts before replacing the GPM.

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

You are incorrect several times in your rant. Our individual glow plugs will glow for 20 seconds or more on this 10amp fused test wire. I am sorry this van did not display that for the camera, but this is a test I have performed MANY times with undeniable results. I am also sorry you didn't see how the test was performed. No, I did not energize the block with 12volts. Watch the video again.

@user-wt2ji9ih3o

Жыл бұрын

You don’t check a flow plug with destructive testing… what happens after 20 seconds? Fuse blows…. The resistance on a new glow plug is lower than a used one, just like any thermal device…. I have 30years of ASE master on the job still earning a living at this telling you that this is not the way to test… I’ll guarantee not all 5 of those GP’s were direct shorted…. In 30years I’ve never had one vehicle ever with each and every glow plug shorted…. And on these the GPM would be fried! All you’re doing to justify that you think it works is you are replacing all the glow plugs, and then it works… As all of them should be replaced at the same time anyway, but your testing is not conclusive, and it’s not how it’s done!

Ummm 15 amp fuse is way to low I think. No way every wire wire be bad and the module too. Try 40-60 amp fuse

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

We see it often where all five glow plugs are bad. They short far more often than fail as an open circuit and any time they are shorted they will blow the internal fuse in the OEM module. The new style module has breakers that reset so the module does not need replaced with almost every single glow plug. The van will start and drive fine in Florida year round without them, so glow plugs are often neglected. At 1:45 you see we test a new glow plug and it does not blow the 15 amp test fuse. The entire glow plug module is fed by a 100 or 125amp fuse (year dependent) in position #5 at the front of the battery. This feeds all 5 glow plugs at once so an average draw above 20 amps would blow the big fuse. I've never seen this fuse expired.

Jeez, rather than messing about with a custom test wire and wasting fuses you could save time and money by just measuring the resistance of each glow plug, they should be in the region of 0.2-2 ohms. You have a perfectly capable multimeter for this. No need to ever prove dead shorts by popping fuses, that's just silly!

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

Reading the resistance of a cold glow plug does not reliably test the plug. I haven't tried it often enough to prove* it, though comparing resistances before I knew this process, having OBD codes indicating specific glow plug issues, was very confusing. Cold resistance measures did not agree with OBD codes.

@shmavitz

2 жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan I do not agree, it should be one of the first things you should do - plugs should be tested cold to verify they are within specification. They can fail by either having no resistance, or having a high resistance and essentially an open circuit. Furthermore a mildly high resistance can indicate a failing plug. Besides, that's not really my point - measuring resistance is a hell of a lot better and will tell you much more about the condition of the glow plugs than the fuse popping method you are advocating which will only tell you if your plug has failed by having no resistance and causing a short.

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

@@shmavitz I don't know enough about this to explain why* you are wrong. But I can explain how I know you are incorrect. When resistance testing was NOT working for me, someone showed me this method of testing and it agreed with the OBD codes I was getting. The glow plug in question was stuck and I was afraid of breaking it. It measured good resistance when cold but continued to throw a code. I stubbornly refused to risk breaking it because it passed resistance testing. This fused method of testing confirmed it was a bad glow plug when resistance testing suggested it was good. Your description agrees with everything I believed until that belief was proven wrong. I wish you the best and I am sorry to disagree with you. This is not theory for me, but personal experience.

@shmavitz

2 жыл бұрын

Fair enough, I guess we just have to agree to disagree. It is a shame you did not mention that you had performed resistance tests and your method may only be useful in a very specific, and to my mind, weird failure scenario. Anyway, I'm glad it found the problem for you.

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

@@shmavitz What is your experience with testing Sprinter glow plugs? Maybe you are more familiar Ohm's Law than most of us making DIY repair efforts on our vans? I tested 15 glow plugs today. Five of them in one engine and 10 recently removed from engines I am preparing for rebuild. Resistance testing the removed proved little as every slight movement of my hands caused fluctuation in ohms and meter would not settle until I added alligator clips. With clips I could change the results of the test by wiggling the clips and wait for ohms to settle again. Knowing what reading I wanted, this was still inconclusive on a few of the removed, and all 5 of the installed plugs. With the fuse method this becomes a simple Pass/Fail. Please make a video and show me what you are doing different form me.

I found the first three minutes confusing and disorienting. First, across the screen, the message: "You don't have to remove your glow plugs". Fine: then why not show how to test them unremoved? Then at 2:48 you say were going to make sure every glow plug is receiving voltage....BUT.....proceed to check the removed plug from the module. Wouldn't the place to be testing in this regard be the exposed male prongs on the module, now visible with the plug removed? That's as far as I could get.

@FloridaVanMan

2 жыл бұрын

We show the naked glow-plug just to see what is going on inside the engine. You don't need to have a plug out of the engine and that part of the video could have been edited in better somewhere else. Later, when we are testing at the connector all the glow plugs are connected to their wires, so we are testing each glow plug through the wire going to it. I hope if you ignore that part where you see a naked glow-plug, the rest of the video will make sense.

@LEXICOGRAFFER

Жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan Thanks! So....for the test that begins at 3:45 you have wired 12V to the voltmeter and are then putting it to each female connection of the removed glo-plug module plug ....so that plug, although removed, is somehow still connected to the installed glo-plugs? And the key is in run position all the time or turned off and on for each plug I guess? And you have a fuse inline as shown at the start which either resets or you replace after each test? Sorry to seem so dense. Just want to better understand what's going on before trying this myself.

@FloridaVanMan

Жыл бұрын

@@LEXICOGRAFFER Yes, the wire harness that we are poking leads to each glow plug. The fused test wire is connected to the battery so there is no need to turn the key on. The fuse in the test wire will only blow when a fuse is shorted dead so only need to replace the fuse after finding a dead glow plug. We offer one-on-one help to Patreon members. Join today floridavanman.com/donate/

@user-wt2ji9ih3o

Жыл бұрын

All that you need to do is make sure you have a good high quality ohm meter… for example one of mine is $850 Fluke is a high quality meter, you don’t need that good of one unless you earn a living at this like I do, but a $5 harbor freight meter might not give you a good read… Unplug main harness on glow plug relay, and check resistance between the harness pins ( go side ) and ground… if any are open or very low ohm, just replace them all, they all have the same use on them, and re test after replacing GP’s all readings should be similar, if you want to check gpr (keep harness unplugged) and use the 12vdc setting on meter, turn key on with the black wire on batt neg, and probe each of the terminals on the GPR for voltage, if all 5 have batt voltage, it’s good..

Once the border is open again, you guys need me to drive down there and show you how to make videos. I made them for decades. You're making all the same mistakes over and over.

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

We are definitely amateurs. Advice, tips and any help is always welcome.

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

It’s one Mike trying to keep focus on a fast moving Bill. 🤣

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

It would be amazing if you’d share what mistakes we’re making instead of saying we’re making the same ones over and over again. It’s also tough to find any kind of shade to park these large vans under here in Florida :) I would love to drastically increase production quality but money is a concern with that which is why we ask for donations. We’re also a channel with *just* 2700 subs

@petermclennan6781

3 жыл бұрын

@@FloridaVanMan It doesn't take money to increase your production quality. It does take planning. You don't appear to be doing any rehearsals at all. You simply start going and expect your camera operator to accommodate whatever happens. He (or she) simply can't, no matter how much skill they have. The results are predictable. Frequently, the operation you're trying to show is obscured from the camera by you doing it. You and your photographer need to figure out how to prevent this. If the camera can't see it, nobody can. A perfect example of this is disconnecting those $#^@#**!!! Mercedes electrical connectors. Every one is different. Clearly showing how they're intended to work would be incredibly valuable. Agreed, this can be difficult, given the locations of some of them. You need to figure out IN ADVANCE what you want to say or show for each topic or sequence. Then you need to REHEARSE how to say it and how to photograph it. That way, you can figure out the problems before they get recorded. It'll make your editing process WAY easier and your product a lot better. It sounds like more work, and it is at first, but it'll get easier as you gain experience. Your content quality will skyrocket. It doesn't take much shade. All you need to shade is the work area (the "set") and much of what you'll need to shoot is found in a very small area. Easy shade can be a piece of anything solid that covers the set from the sun. A piece of foamcore or insulation board is lightweight and easy to position, but anything that blocks the direct sun from the shot will work. White (or shiny) materials can bounce light into those dark regions where there's insufficient light. Underneath the van, for example. An old white bed sheet to lie on will work wonders there, especially if some of the sheet is in the sun. Mirrors are fantastic for putting a lot of light where there isn't any. Mirrors don't have to be glass, they can be anything reflective. Be resourceful. The set can be something as small as the EGR valve or as large as the entire van. If the vehicle is mobile, move it so as to put the set "where the sun don't shine". Even just turning it away from the sun can help. Or choose your time of day to shoot. You just can't shoot clear images of dark, hard to see stuff like engine rooms in direct sun. Too much contrast and too many shadow problems. Movie crews suspend twenty-foot-square chunks of solid or translucent materials over sunlit sets. The equipment and labour costs to do so are huge, but they always do it. That's how important it is too good imagery. There's nothing wrong with your gear. The camera is fine. Your headset/mic is an excellent decision. Keep thinking along those lines.s The most valuable thing a film crew can have is a rehearsal. If they know what's going to happen next, they can anticipate and make whatever adjustments are necessary - either with the camera, the lighting or the talent. (that's you) :) I'm "glasseye" on Sprinter-Source, FWIW. T1N owner since 2009. It's in my interest to see you succeed. :)

@FloridaVanMan

3 жыл бұрын

@@petermclennan6781 Thank you for the tips and advice. We will try to incorporate some of that into our videos. We are really running on a real shoestring budget here.